phosphor112
Banned
Thanks man... my insurance is going to cover only like 3-400 of it because of the deductible. Shit is cray.
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Gran Turismo 5 Spec II |OT| - We Love DLC!
- Thread starter Metalmurphy
- Start date
Thanks man... my insurance is going to cover only like 3-400 of it because of the deductible. Shit is cray.
Damn, that sucks man. A couple other gaffers have been broken into this week, people are shit.
phosphor112
Banned
Yeah I saw that... weather gets nice out. People turn into dicks.
seattle6418
Member
I don´t like this new Academy so far, it just looks like a bunch of license tests until Round 8.
GT Academy USA was very cool, with full laps and multiple elimination stages.
I like that the rankings are now global, but that´s about it so far.
GT Academy USA was very cool, with full laps and multiple elimination stages.
I like that the rankings are now global, but that´s about it so far.
I agree. It is much more of a promotional stunt now. "Drive this Nissan. See what great Nissans there are. Nissan innovation for all. Nissan."
Metalmurphy
Member
I agree it make no sense to me
Metalmurphy
Member
No. Just the final event will matter.
Interesting. So it really is pointless, by and large.
Although I do like license tests. Especially the ones with other cars.
I haven't used my wheel in months.
Metalmurphy
Member
I guess it just filters out the really bad drivers, or those simply not committed enough.
That's my thought. Although they should have made the tests more meaningful and given some more decent rewards, not just existing cars with new stickers.
nicoga3000
Saint Nic
So I posted some questions in the GT5 racing league thread and was directed over to here. I got some great answers over there, and after logging a few hours with my new "tips", I've decided I have a few more.
A little background, I'm completely new to the game. I bought Real Racing 2 when I first bought my iPad 2 and played it a bunch...When it went on sale for the iPhone, I grabbed it there as well. I've put in a good chunk of hours and have been itching for more. Living in Indy, the 500 was this past weekend and I got even MORE intrigued. I'm not a race fan, but something about racing sims grabs my interest.
Enter GT5.
I'm starting to get a feel for the physics a bit more, but I'm still shaky. I imagine with time I'll get it. I'm using a controller (as I really cannot justify a wheel right now, especially since it's so new to me), but given my low level of skill, I can't imagine this is a huge issue.
Per someone's suggestion, I've decided to race MT with no assists (except TCS at default and ABS at 1). I've turned off the racing line as well. I decided to try the first A-Spec event (Summer something or other). When I did it with AT without touching ANY of the options (so whatever was on when you first boot the game up was active), and I got second. After playing with everything and switching to MT, I was having a hard time placing above 5th. I managed a 1st place finish once, but I'm not sure HOW.
Can someone give me some tips on driving and corning with MT? Really anything would help - a tutorial video, tips and tricks sections, etc. I enjoy it when I do it well, and it feels like I have a lot of control, but it's VERY difficult to grasp given my COMPLETE lack of knowledge about cars and racing as a whole.
I appreciate the help!
A little background, I'm completely new to the game. I bought Real Racing 2 when I first bought my iPad 2 and played it a bunch...When it went on sale for the iPhone, I grabbed it there as well. I've put in a good chunk of hours and have been itching for more. Living in Indy, the 500 was this past weekend and I got even MORE intrigued. I'm not a race fan, but something about racing sims grabs my interest.
Enter GT5.
I'm starting to get a feel for the physics a bit more, but I'm still shaky. I imagine with time I'll get it. I'm using a controller (as I really cannot justify a wheel right now, especially since it's so new to me), but given my low level of skill, I can't imagine this is a huge issue.
Per someone's suggestion, I've decided to race MT with no assists (except TCS at default and ABS at 1). I've turned off the racing line as well. I decided to try the first A-Spec event (Summer something or other). When I did it with AT without touching ANY of the options (so whatever was on when you first boot the game up was active), and I got second. After playing with everything and switching to MT, I was having a hard time placing above 5th. I managed a 1st place finish once, but I'm not sure HOW.
Can someone give me some tips on driving and corning with MT? Really anything would help - a tutorial video, tips and tricks sections, etc. I enjoy it when I do it well, and it feels like I have a lot of control, but it's VERY difficult to grasp given my COMPLETE lack of knowledge about cars and racing as a whole.
I appreciate the help!
Business
Member
The racing school videos from iracing are pretty good and cover the basics (racing line, cornering, downshifting, etc). It's not GT5 but the same principles will apply for any decent racing simulation, so I think it can improve your GT5 experience.
That's the link to the first video on youtube, you'll easily find the rest.
That's the link to the first video on youtube, you'll easily find the rest.
Back again...
More manual transmissions it is all about timing and listening for the auditory ques. The goal with switching gears manually is to keep the cars RPM (engine speed) at the optimal point for a given situation. Your car does not produce its max HP 100% of the time. It only produces a certain amount at each RPM. Hence when you see car stats 300hp @ 7200rpm. In order to use the car's maximum potential you want to keep the revs as close to the point as possible (most of the time). Going 20mph in 6th gear is going to be really slow. Trying to go 60mph in 1st gear is also not going to work.
Start off by holding the brake and reving your car. Listen to what the car sounds like when it reaches max RPM. When it starts banging off the limitor (baaa babaaa babaa) that is past your up shift point. You can use the in game HUD to help you with this. Look for either the rev meeter or the gear number. When the rev bar gets red and the red light illuminates next to the gear number, it is time to shift. Learn with the audio first.
Down shifting is a little trickier. Like I said, 20mph in 6th gear is no fun. When you are braking you do not want to just bang down the gears right away. In order to go to a lower gear, the car has to slow down (less stress on the engine). This is just something you will have to learn. Listen to the car. If it is not making a noise (low revs) chances are you should down shift. If the engine is quite loud, then it is not yet time to down shift.
Keep the car in the right gear will also let you drive the car through the corner better. Being in too high a gear will cause the car to plow or not turn. This is understeer. Being in too low a gear will cause the car to jolt and loose balance. In rear wheel drive, high power cars this can cause the car to spin.
Again, it is all about listening. Check out this video and observe when the driver shifts gears in relation to his engines sound (RPM).
More manual transmissions it is all about timing and listening for the auditory ques. The goal with switching gears manually is to keep the cars RPM (engine speed) at the optimal point for a given situation. Your car does not produce its max HP 100% of the time. It only produces a certain amount at each RPM. Hence when you see car stats 300hp @ 7200rpm. In order to use the car's maximum potential you want to keep the revs as close to the point as possible (most of the time). Going 20mph in 6th gear is going to be really slow. Trying to go 60mph in 1st gear is also not going to work.
Start off by holding the brake and reving your car. Listen to what the car sounds like when it reaches max RPM. When it starts banging off the limitor (baaa babaaa babaa) that is past your up shift point. You can use the in game HUD to help you with this. Look for either the rev meeter or the gear number. When the rev bar gets red and the red light illuminates next to the gear number, it is time to shift. Learn with the audio first.
Down shifting is a little trickier. Like I said, 20mph in 6th gear is no fun. When you are braking you do not want to just bang down the gears right away. In order to go to a lower gear, the car has to slow down (less stress on the engine). This is just something you will have to learn. Listen to the car. If it is not making a noise (low revs) chances are you should down shift. If the engine is quite loud, then it is not yet time to down shift.
Keep the car in the right gear will also let you drive the car through the corner better. Being in too high a gear will cause the car to plow or not turn. This is understeer. Being in too low a gear will cause the car to jolt and loose balance. In rear wheel drive, high power cars this can cause the car to spin.
Again, it is all about listening. Check out this video and observe when the driver shifts gears in relation to his engines sound (RPM).
Manual gears and no assists is definitely the way to go. There are many guides out there about racing lines and so on, but I know from a few friends that the switch from automatic to manual gears can be daunting so here's a few tips I would give:
Turn off any music you have playing so you can hear the engine.
Don't look at the rev counter (really, turn it off if you can), try to listen to the pitch of the engine, when it's high pitched, change up, when it's low pitched, change down (admittedly some engines are easier to do this with than others).
Only ever change down (or up) one gear at a time so accelerating is:
Low pitch -> high pitch -> change up -> low pitch -> high pitch -> change up -> etc.
And decelerating is:
High pitch -> low pitch -> change down -> high pitch -> low pitch -> change down -> etc.
Initially don't worry if you're hitting optimum revs, just practice. Then more practice, followed with some good practice.
Pick a simple track to start with (Tsukuba) then as you get confident move on to more complex tracks.
After a while you'll be changing gears without thinking. At which point you can start checking the rev counter to get your upshifts perfect (~the red line).
EDIT: Or what he said ^
Turn off any music you have playing so you can hear the engine.
Don't look at the rev counter (really, turn it off if you can), try to listen to the pitch of the engine, when it's high pitched, change up, when it's low pitched, change down (admittedly some engines are easier to do this with than others).
Only ever change down (or up) one gear at a time so accelerating is:
Low pitch -> high pitch -> change up -> low pitch -> high pitch -> change up -> etc.
And decelerating is:
High pitch -> low pitch -> change down -> high pitch -> low pitch -> change down -> etc.
Initially don't worry if you're hitting optimum revs, just practice. Then more practice, followed with some good practice.
Pick a simple track to start with (Tsukuba) then as you get confident move on to more complex tracks.
After a while you'll be changing gears without thinking. At which point you can start checking the rev counter to get your upshifts perfect (~the red line).
EDIT: Or what he said ^
weekend_warrior
Banned
I wouldn't turn off the rev meter myself. Getting the most revs from every gear is a secondary importance of using manual, the most most important reason is because it ensures you're thinking about your speed in every corner. That's what you need to practice most. For every corner you should be thinking what gear and what speed can I take this corner at, and when you mess up you just adjust for the next time around. You'll know you got the hang off it when you start thinking, "Damn, I took that corner 5mph slower then I could have, maybe I should stay in 4th and try taking more speed through it."
You should use the practice area too, racing with other cars around you isn't going to help. Pick a mid-range car (~250hp) and I track you like and practice there.
You should use the practice area too, racing with other cars around you isn't going to help. Pick a mid-range car (~250hp) and I track you like and practice there.
To add on to this, as you get more comfortable and want to look further into your times you can use the data logger to see where you're downshifting when you might not need to. It will look similar to the following pic where you have downshifted and then shortly after upshifted back to the gear you were in.
The data logger can be kind of intimidating if you're not used to looking at one so no need to right away, just thought I would throw it in there for something to look into in the future. (Plus you get an easy trophy the first time you use it, lol).
You're right of course, but I was talking specifically about getting used to manual gears rather than improving times. Concentrate on listening to the engine until you don't need to think about when to change gear before learning which gear you should be in, if you see what I mean.
Like learning in a real car, you first get used to things like clutch control until it's second nature before worrying about traffic flow and more advanced stuff.
Stoffinator
Member
There is a new update out, anybody know what it does? Its 2.07 . Its pretty small, only a couple kb.
Fucking Bob cannot drive the Autumn Ring, no matter what car I give him. He's level 37, bastard should be able to steer a bloody WRX without hanging the tail out and spinning everywhere, but nooooo.
At least it's not Cote D'Azur... I had to give Cameron Diaz (my driver) a bloody 2J fan car and she still only won because the guys in 1st and 2nd were just as shit and piled into the barriers on the last corner.
You forgot this one > most important of all you've *mentioned*
- Option to Change Oil has been added to Pre-Race/Tune Car options in both Career and Online
And for this one:
You should really find Lv Tickets and "roulette" them via USB-backup exploit.
GT40'69 > Lv 17 ticket
Chaparral 2D > Lv 21 ticket
Chaparral 2J > Level 23 Ticket
I guess many could send you those tickets and then it is just only "rinse-and-repeat" procedure.
You forgot this one > most important of all you've *mentioned*
- Option to Change Oil has been added to Pre-Race/Tune Car options in both Career and Online
D'oh, how could I miss this one
Nice little update there.
First time posting in here; I recently got myself a G27. For fellow G27 users, are there any tweaks/extra calibrations that can be done to better the overall experience of the wheel? For example, I had read somewhere to properly 'calibrate' the pedals, it is recommended to start a race, pump the gas and brake pedals so that the game can properly register the 'start' and 'end' point of the pedals, once done exit the race. All of the following races will have the proper 'pedal adjustments', is there any truth to this?
What about steering sensitivity? I find lowering the sensitivity helps, especially on higher PP cars, but I have heard otherwise. I been racing with the DS3 since the release of GT5 so it's like I got to 're-learn' GT5 all over again lol.
First time posting in here; I recently got myself a G27. For fellow G27 users, are there any tweaks/extra calibrations that can be done to better the overall experience of the wheel? For example, I had read somewhere to properly 'calibrate' the pedals, it is recommended to start a race, pump the gas and brake pedals so that the game can properly register the 'start' and 'end' point of the pedals, once done exit the race. All of the following races will have the proper 'pedal adjustments', is there any truth to this?
What about steering sensitivity? I find lowering the sensitivity helps, especially on higher PP cars, but I have heard otherwise. I been racing with the DS3 since the release of GT5 so it's like I got to 're-learn' GT5 all over again lol.
I knew I wasn't just seeing things from GT academy. The car cockpit is brighter. Namely, the instrument panel is actually quite readable in daytime now. Now, it might be placebo but the physics seems tweaked (feels like gt academy). Even more crazy, and probably not true, is that I think the game looks sharper. Am I crazy?
seattle6418
Member
I don´t think so. The Nissans, in general, seemed a little more unstable under braking, but it´s been a while since i drove a stock car in GT5. I guess the effects of ABS at 1 are smaller, that might be the reason.
Wax Free Vanilla
Member
weekend_warrior
Banned
oh you asshole.
Metalmurphy
Member
Well, it was alot worst before for G27 users.
nicoga3000
Saint Nic
These iRacing videos are SUPER helpful. Thanks for the suggestion!
God damn, lol you got me there. My eyes lit up when I got to "choose ai cars in arcade".
nicoga3000
Saint Nic
Is it ok to brake while cornering, or is it better to do all my braking before I enter? And when should I start accelerating out of a corner? I turned on the racing line to get a feel for speed through corners (since it helps a bit for a complete noob), and it's helping, but I'm trying to get a feel for it still on harder corners.
Stoffinator
Member
Slow in, fast out. Like sex.
Brake for the corner, feather the gas through the corner and one the car is straight, give it more gas. But never slam on the gas or you will end up in the grass/sand. Just keep trying different things out, GT does a good job at teaching you. Have you done some of the license tests? They are annoying but believe it or not they do teach you.
At your stage it is better to only brake in a straight line before the corners.
BTW. I have done this before. If you want you can send me a PSN request (thepatriots) and I can give you some driving lessons in my lounge (private online room). It helps if you have a mic but if you don't it is no big deal.
Didn't know there was an actual replica of it until coming across this on the Top Gear UK subreddit.
nicoga3000
Saint Nic
I added you. I'll be busy this week with helping my fiancee get wrapped up before she heads to Chicago to finish some stuff up, but next week I should be available. That would actually be really cool and helpful - seeing and understanding how to navigate the track in a slightly more efficient way than I am now would be huge.
I finished the B license tests. I've got a few golds and a mix of silver/bronzes in there. I need to go back and improve on them.
I had to buy a car for the FF drive train A-Spec event. Turns out the car was MUCH better than what I was driving before (some entry level used Miata). I went back and crushed the first event I couldn't take first in and proceeded to take first in the three races for the FF event. Either the car is that much better, or watching the iRacing Racing School videos helped.
I think turning on the drive line added something, too...Knowing when to brake is something I still don't have a feel for. It's tough to get a sense of how much the car can really handle. It also helps because I can get an idea of when to downshift as I approach corners, too. There's a LOT to learn, but you gotta start somewhere I guess.
Three other questions...
1) When shopping for cars, why do some have (what appears to be) a little red circle in the upper left corner of the mini picture? It looks like the DLC icon on the main screen, but I can't tell...
3) Is the DLC actually worth it for this game? I'm going to be picking up the XL edition relatively soon (as I need to return the copy I'm using to my friend eventually), and I want to know which one I should buy.
2) I may investigate getting a wheel if I find myself still hooked in about 30 days. I need to make sure I REALLY enjoy it before dropping money on one. Is there one that is considered good for entry level/lower cost without skimping on quality too much?
Thanks again for the help.
For braking the driving line is not all that accurate. Use it for positioning your car on the track. It fudges many braking points. Try doing a couple of safe laps (ie braking early) then slowly increase your pace.
In regards to a FFB wheel. You have 2 low price options. The logitech Driving Force GT is the entry level wheel. That is around $100 iirc. The wheel is pretty good but the pedals leave much to be desired. Then there is the logitech g27. The g27 is about $200-300. It is probably the best bang for the buck wheel on the market. Google both of them and do a little research to find out which is best for you. IMO the G27 is worth the extra cash.
In regards to a FFB wheel. You have 2 low price options. The logitech Driving Force GT is the entry level wheel. That is around $100 iirc. The wheel is pretty good but the pedals leave much to be desired. Then there is the logitech g27. The g27 is about $200-300. It is probably the best bang for the buck wheel on the market. Google both of them and do a little research to find out which is best for you. IMO the G27 is worth the extra cash.
Metalmurphy
Member
Either a Vita version, or nothing.
nicoga3000
Saint Nic
So I bought XL Edition and LOVE it. It gave me some new cars to work with, which is always nice. I also started doing the Seasonal Events for stupid amounts of money (at 170% boost, too).
My question is, am I supposed to have an unfairly difficult time winning? I can't get higher than 6th in the Daytona 430PP event, and there's another race in there that I simply can't catch first. I finished 30+ seconds behind the leader.
@paskowitz I'm hoping to get myself a headset so I can jump on and work with you a bit. I saw your message from yesterday (which I totally missed). I should have some free time to practice and work with you some in the next few days.
My question is, am I supposed to have an unfairly difficult time winning? I can't get higher than 6th in the Daytona 430PP event, and there's another race in there that I simply can't catch first. I finished 30+ seconds behind the leader.
@paskowitz I'm hoping to get myself a headset so I can jump on and work with you a bit. I saw your message from yesterday (which I totally missed). I should have some free time to practice and work with you some in the next few days.
Metalmurphy
Member
If you have the wrong car it can be difficult. What car are you using and how much PP it has?
nicoga3000
Saint Nic
Off the top of my head, I couldn't tell you. But I know it came with the XL Edition. I think it's the only car that meets the requirements of the event. I'll check after work, though.