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Gran Turismo 6 |OT| Moon Rover The Castle
- Thread starter Mobius 1
- Start date
Sounds like many of you are taking the corners badly. Either that, or you all have some assists on that are slowing down your acceleration out of corners. Once you pass that other car, it should be a non issue. It will keep pace, but it shouldn't ever get close to making contact.
Yes, there's serious rubber-banding going on. But once you pass them, the AI cars will only catch you when you do something to put you seriously off pace.
Gouda Jouji
Member
Yes, that opening was added in the 1.01 update.
DinnerRevealer
Neo Member
Weird that some tracks like Fuji and Ascari don't appear in the test drive menu, (at least initially, I just got my National A license yesterday). I'm hoping that Sears Point/Infineon/Sonoma will return, and I'd really like to see Circuit of the Americas in Austin's F1 and short versions added. While I'm wishing, Mid Ohio and Road Atlanta would be cool too.
OK, I tried to recreate the AI bumping the back of you for no good reason on mission B-5, I got something much better...
FFS
What's really sad is that you can see the AI brake to avoid me when I fuck up the corner at the start of the video, although it also brakes quickly once it's pushing me sideways along the road too so...
Edit: Oh and in case it isn't clear from the replay angle, I'm going dead straight, intentionally keeping to the left all the way down the straightaway.
FFS
What's really sad is that you can see the AI brake to avoid me when I fuck up the corner at the start of the video, although it also brakes quickly once it's pushing me sideways along the road too so...
Ignore the sound, that isn't actually the engine sound, the TV was muted, it's someone shaving in another room, although I can understand the confusion ;-)
Edit: Oh and in case it isn't clear from the replay angle, I'm going dead straight, intentionally keeping to the left all the way down the straightaway.
ethomaz
Banned
Cool I just found weird because I read here about other intro
thanks.I did a tranning race with 86 GT car and the sound seems better than what I remember from GT5.
Used to happen to me all the time in Forza III. This stuff really is annoying and prompted me to actually turn the AI down. The way I see it, is if I have to choose between shit AI or no AI, I'll go with no AI.
NullPointer
Member
Maastricht
Member
I haven't had that happen almost ever outside the missions though.
Various Artists
Banned
That is my EXACT same experience. Glad it just isn't me. Still sucks.
Betta Lines
Member
You are describing this as if they are separate things, and I don't think they are. I believe the unforgiving nature of TBO and TTO is directly connected to surface temperature reaction of the tyres, with sliding out of control being the final catastrophic phase of this temperature increase.
Here's my disjointed knowledge/guesswork on the subject... once you've overcome traction (in any way) the contact patch begins to do all sorts of crazy things relating to friction (and therefore heat). When you slide a cold/optimum-temperature tyre, the microscopic layer of rubber directly in contact with the road is going nuts, while 1 or 2mm into the material it might still be totally cold/optimal. The longer you stress the surface, more likely the temperature will penetrate deeper into the compound. It's an organic, analogue process of temperature fluctuation at variable rates throughout the material, from crazy fast fluctuation on the surface to very slow fluctuation near the carcass. If this is the case, then I'd say iRacing is unforgiving precisely due to these temperature fluctuations on the surface, which are initiated by TBO, TTO or any other way of upsetting traction, followed by the struggle to save the car as the tyre surface overheats. (I'm referring to microscopic surface overheating in the moment of slip, not the general tyre overheating that might build over the course of a race.)
What elements of this are modelled in GT6 is unknown, and what exactly is represented by the tyre display on the HUD is unclear. The rate at which the colour goes from white to red suggests that it is showing some kind of surface temperature fluctuation rather than overall temperature. It takes longer to settle back to normal depending on how long the tyres have been in the red, which could be an indication of the surface temperature going deeper into the rubber, which in turn would keep the surface warmer for longer, hence the slower return to white.
Doesn't seem crazy to me if you lean on the tyres in one corner and make them red (if you think of it as tyre surface temperature). That is how crashes happen, on roads every day. It's not about a gradual overheating process over many miles that eventually causes you to lose grip and crash - you can lose traction in an instant by taking a corner too fast, the consequences of that being massive temperature spikes on the surface of the tyre.
Maastricht
Member
I really like that you can take some shortcuts in the game, unlocking licinces and such with just a small number of stars, so that's partly what I've been doing. I'm trying to decide now what car I should get for the final race of iA. As the Turbo upgrade for the GT-R NISMO from the preorder is cheap, I think I'll try with that first.
Races at higher levels have been really cool so far. AI giving me a good run for my money at the higher levels (with everything as sim as possible, driving with a DF pro)
Ok, power-wise this seems good enough, but the gearing needs changing so equip customiseable transmission and make sure to go for racing softs. That should bring some balance back I think. Also feel like toning down the FFB now, this is getting hard work!
Crap, hard tires required. Also, the music during this championship is really dramatic, and a nice throwback to older GT intro/outro, like the GT5 'ending' movie.
Races at higher levels have been really cool so far. AI giving me a good run for my money at the higher levels (with everything as sim as possible, driving with a DF pro)
Ok, power-wise this seems good enough, but the gearing needs changing so equip customiseable transmission and make sure to go for racing softs. That should bring some balance back I think. Also feel like toning down the FFB now, this is getting hard work!
Crap, hard tires required. Also, the music during this championship is really dramatic, and a nice throwback to older GT intro/outro, like the GT5 'ending' movie.
gutterboy44
Member
Sorry but you are making this into silly talk that has nothing to do with over heating tires in regards to regular cornering scenarios and difficulties. Losing control of your car through TTO is from unloading weight from the rear to the front. If anything, you are losing too much friction in the rear tires,and gaining too much in the front. Neither is exceeding the heat limits.
You are seldom entering a corner with all four tires at the the absolute limit of their surface temperature, exceeding it, and then spinning as a result. Even so, you are only ever losing a percentage of your total grip if you over heat them. Some tires this is minimal, some it is a cliff, like in F1 cars since Pirelli was tasked with making tires that are intentionally shitty in this way.
Assuming you have slowed down for the corner, upsetting the balance of the car is going to be the likely reason you spin entering a corner. This essentially the crux of TTO and TBO, a rapid unbalancing of the car. Your front tires likely have plenty of grip in reserve when you are oversteering, and your rear doesn't have enough, because you just rapidly unloaded the weight forward. That is what is what makes TBO and TTO so different from power on oversteer at corner exit. It tends to "snap" opposed to something you can more easily feather.
Why do cars spin so easily in the rain? The friction of the tire is obviously being reduced not from excessive temperatures but the introduction of a lubricant, in this case, water. Spinning a ca in the rain does not mean you have exceeded the available heat/friction whatever the hell you want to call it, it is because you don't have enough of it. iRacing is not unforgiving because of temperature fluctuations, iRacing is unforgiving because most people snap off the brake and accelerator because it is a consequence-less action in every day cars and most racing games and people aren't used to having to be super smooth for every corner and braking/acceleration transition. Old habits die hard is the extent of this situation, not microscopic temperature fluctuations.
firehawk12
Subete no aware
So it looks like 1.02 will spell the end of the credits glitch?
How are they planning on fixing it since the actual exploit involve removing all the patches.
Don't have a PS3 ATM, pretty tempted by this bundle, it's £10-£15 cheaper that just the 500GB console!
http://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B00GN61FB8/
http://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B00GN61FB8/
Gouda Jouji
Member
I just started the GT300 Championship in IA, and it has proper rolling starts. Why weren't they anywhere else in the game!?
Celcius
°Temp. member
When I start the S-1 test, the camera is on the grass to the side of the track and when it counts down 3..2..1.. it just stops and does nothing. I can pause and quit the race though. Does this happen to anyone else? Is there a workaround or will I have to wait for a patch to progress further?
zephervack
Member
They could do something to your save so that v1.0 can't read it.
Really hope they don't but thay totally can and probably will
So regarding the AI, are the AI cars still unresponsive to impacts like they have been? It has seemed like there has been a different set of physics for them in some of the past games, where you can go so far as to try and spin them with hits on the rear and they just shrug it off and keep going.
Hah! Hope you didn't leave a mess. Love the noise of that car.
Source? Been expecting it though.
Damnit, I shouldn't be watching porn this late
Edit: I just heard the audio in Adrian's video. Wow, that's pathetic by comparison. I struggle to think of a game that has worse car audio. Forza 4 and PGR4 slaughter it in that regard. Hell, PGR3 does.
Hah! Hope you didn't leave a mess. Love the noise of that car.
Source? Been expecting it though.
Holy shit. I just compared the original videos to the Quattro in Rallisport 2. I don't remember it sounding that amazing!
God bless RS2. I really need to pick up a used xbox and relive the glory of that game. banderas.gif
Dash Kappei
Not actually that important
Hey gutter boy, I know you use a G27 like me, how do you use (if at all) the lock settings?
[1+2] + O = ~670°
[1+2] + S = ~450°
[1+2] + X = 900° (default)
[1+2] + T = ~240°
I mean in term of cars.
It'd be cool to have such info on the car list, I mean 900 for almost every road car I guess, 540 for open wheelers (Caterham is 650° irl iirc, so I'd go for 670), but then?
I know a few, like the 458 Italia is 720° while most Ferraris are 900/1080.
For example I always thought that even modern rally cars were 450°, but instead I found out many WRCs cars lie the Impreza are 720°. F1 are between 360° and 540° iirc. GTR, range from 540° like the MB CLK to 720 (McL F1).
Most DTM and AUS V8 are 540°, what about JPN Super GTs? I believe it's 450/540 iinm. Haven't got a clue on NASCAR cars. Of course we'd need much more data to have a full picture (like steering ratio) but it's not like we can input such values in GT6 ourselves, so...
So basically I'd go:
modern road cars/RM: 900°
GTR/DTM/V8/WRC/Touring: 670°
F1/Rally/Le Mans/Super GT: 450°
Go-Karts: 240°
NASCAR: ?????
What do you guys say?
It also pisses me off GT6 doesn't give a "IRL ASSISTS TUNE" where you'd have the manufacturers' settings for TC/ABS/etc
At least I can look at the driver's hands to know if I'm supposed to use the paddles or the h-box, lol
Also, clutch support on the G27 is still BROKEN! Didn't someone post I was much better in this very thread? Meh.
[1+2] + O = ~670°
[1+2] + S = ~450°
[1+2] + X = 900° (default)
[1+2] + T = ~240°
I mean in term of cars.
It'd be cool to have such info on the car list, I mean 900 for almost every road car I guess, 540 for open wheelers (Caterham is 650° irl iirc, so I'd go for 670), but then?
I know a few, like the 458 Italia is 720° while most Ferraris are 900/1080.
For example I always thought that even modern rally cars were 450°, but instead I found out many WRCs cars lie the Impreza are 720°. F1 are between 360° and 540° iirc. GTR, range from 540° like the MB CLK to 720 (McL F1).
Most DTM and AUS V8 are 540°, what about JPN Super GTs? I believe it's 450/540 iinm. Haven't got a clue on NASCAR cars. Of course we'd need much more data to have a full picture (like steering ratio) but it's not like we can input such values in GT6 ourselves, so...
So basically I'd go:
modern road cars/RM: 900°
GTR/DTM/V8/WRC/Touring: 670°
F1/Rally/Le Mans/Super GT: 450°
Go-Karts: 240°
NASCAR: ?????
What do you guys say?
It also pisses me off GT6 doesn't give a "IRL ASSISTS TUNE" where you'd have the manufacturers' settings for TC/ABS/etc
At least I can look at the driver's hands to know if I'm supposed to use the paddles or the h-box, lol
Also, clutch support on the G27 is still BROKEN! Didn't someone post I was much better in this very thread? Meh.
Mister Zimbu
Member
Is the "racing club" functionality not in this version or do you have to unlock it after more single player?
That would have made me rage quit lol.
Sly tip: If you have a JTAG 360 (or one you can at least run unsigned code on) they have a version of the backward compatibility software that will at least attempt to play *everything*. Point being, RSC2 literally runs almost perfectly. Insignificant slowdown (far less than most of the games that were "officially" announced" and I think 720P.
So good.
Dash Kappei
Not actually that important
I have no clue about NASCAR but I'd guess the best setup would be like 240° or 450° depending on preference. Maybe I'm deadly wrong but I mean, what do they turn in real life ovals, like 90° to the left and 10° to the right unless they wanna kiss the wall?
I don't have a 360
but thanks for the tip! I love that game so much. It's by no means a sim but it's far and away the most fun racing game I've ever played.DownWithTheShip
Member
Downloaded from PSN and am currently installing.
Why is the install taking so long? It's been about an hour and 15 minutes and I'm only at 88%. It's only 15GB
WTF?
Why is the install taking so long? It's been about an hour and 15 minutes and I'm only at 88%. It's only 15GB
WTF?
PS3 installs are really slow
http://www.gtplanet.net/gt6-minor-updates/
So it seems PD will constantly be updating minor things in the game every week. Today they implemented a "news ticker" with the first announcement saying the BMW M4 will be updated in the future with a full cockpit.
So it seems PD will constantly be updating minor things in the game every week. Today they implemented a "news ticker" with the first announcement saying the BMW M4 will be updated in the future with a full cockpit.
HueyFreeman
Banned
Nah there's something particularly weird about the GT6 install. It clips along at a good rate and then near the 90% mark it slows down to an absolute crawl. Take my advice man - go do something else, it doesn't pay to sit and wait for it.
Soft tires wear off much faster, for long races use medium or hard for less pit stops.
IISANDERII
Member
Some cars seem to be undriveable.
The AutoUnion 1937 loses all its steering at low speed. And at high speeds it oversteers instantly. Even had trouble at top speed on the RouteX main straight. In the description it does say it was notoriously difficult to drive because of excessive weight in the tail but this seems overboard in the game. Berndt Rosemeyer, RIP @ 480kph was brave enough to try. Meanwhile, I don't even want to ride this thing anymore in a videogame.
The Ford GT40 Mk 1 1966 was ok at first but after upgrading it, it becomes useless for anything but drifting. There's just nothing you can do with it.
The AutoUnion 1937 loses all its steering at low speed. And at high speeds it oversteers instantly. Even had trouble at top speed on the RouteX main straight. In the description it does say it was notoriously difficult to drive because of excessive weight in the tail but this seems overboard in the game. Berndt Rosemeyer, RIP @ 480kph was brave enough to try. Meanwhile, I don't even want to ride this thing anymore in a videogame.
The Ford GT40 Mk 1 1966 was ok at first but after upgrading it, it becomes useless for anything but drifting. There's just nothing you can do with it.
phosphor112
Banned
Has anyone else's ps3 frozen while playing this at all?
Mine's frozen 3 times so far and once 1 of the license tests failed to load. My previous race was kind of stuttering....maybe it's my ps3
Once. Post race.
Has anyone else's ps3 frozen while playing this at all?
Mine's frozen 3 times so far and once 1 of the license tests failed to load. My previous race was kind of stuttering....maybe it's my ps3
My PS3 overheated and died on GT6, for what it's worth. It's surely not GT6's fault per se but I imagine it's taxing the system enough to generate enough heat to exacerbate any existing (and possibly hidden until now) problems with your unit.
gutterboy44
Member
Hey gutter boy, I know you use a G27 like me, how do you use (if at all) the lock settings?
[1+2] + O = ~670°
[1+2] + S = ~450°
[1+2] + X = 900° (default)
[1+2] + T = ~240°
I mean in term of cars.
It'd be cool to have such info on the car list, I mean 900 for almost every road car I guess, 540 for open wheelers (Caterham is 650° irl iirc, so I'd go for 670), but then?
I know a few, like the 458 Italia is 720° while most Ferraris are 900/1080.
For example I always thought that even modern rally cars were 450°, but instead I found out many WRCs cars lie the Impreza are 720°. F1 are between 360° and 540° iirc. GTR, range from 540° like the MB CLK to 720 (McL F1).
Most DTM and AUS V8 are 540°, what about JPN Super GTs? I believe it's 450/540 iinm. Haven't got a clue on NASCAR cars. Of course we'd need much more data to have a full picture (like steering ratio) but it's not like we can input such values in GT6 ourselves, so...
So basically I'd go:
modern road cars/RM: 900°
GTR/DTM/V8/WRC/Touring: 670°
F1/Rally/Le Mans/Super GT: 450°
Go-Karts: 240°
NASCAR: ?????
What do you guys say?
It also pisses me off GT6 doesn't give a "IRL ASSISTS TUNE" where you'd have the manufacturers' settings for TC/ABS/etc
At least I can look at the driver's hands to know if I'm supposed to use the paddles or the h-box, lol
Also, clutch support on the G27 is still BROKEN! Didn't someone post I was much better in this very thread? Meh.
It seems you have a pretty good grasp on it. So far I've only used it for the drifting trials. I dropped it to 670. I feel like the Xbow night benefit from 670. It really is gray to be able to change lock, I just wish GT6 did it automatically for each car.
I fell like a clutch is going to be worthless in GT until they completely overhaul the way they model transmissions.
Betta Lines
Member
Sorry you think it is silly/not relevant. I believe my theory applies to everything you've just described... I'll try again. You say TTO unloads weight from the rear, losing traction. I agree. But what I believe this is doing, on the microscopic level, is reducing the contact patch of the rear tyres, concentrating the traction down to a very tiny area of the rubber surface, which then goes through the temperature fluctuations I described which reduce grip. I believe the tiny part of the tyre surface that remains 'loaded' has exceeded the heat 'limit' if you want to call it that - that is what is resulting in the slide. I mean, if the rear tyre was completely unloaded, it would lift off the ground, and cause an instant spin. We're talking about the rear being partially unloaded in an oversteer situation to reduce grip, not remove grip entirely. So in that instant, part of the tyre is still 'loaded', and that part is going nuts (while the rest of the tyre is at normal temperature). I mean, how could it not be going nuts? It's the only part of tyre left touching the road after the rest has been unloaded, and it is in slip. It is being dragged across road. There is friction, so there is heat, at the microscopic level. The molecules of rubber in direct contact with the road in that instance are having a really bad day.
I think my understanding of the 'cliff' in the current F1 tyre differs from yours, because I don't think it's relevant to what I was describing (or indeed, what you just described about entering a corner on the limit and spinning). The 'cliff' is a consequence of tyre wear, which causes the overall performance of the tyre to fall away after an extended period. This is not the same as the temporary loss of grip I'm describing during a single instance of slip, caused by the rapid surface temperature fluctuation. Such fluctuations return to normal immediately after the slip, and the tyre returns to full performance. The tyre surface is constantly fluctuating in temperature as you take corners, and by 'looking after' them, allowing the surface to return to the normal operating window after each corner, you can reduce overall wear and postpone the inevitable 'cliff' which happens when there is not enough rubber left. I wasn't talking about that. To put it in the context of GT6, the colour describes surface fluctuation as the cause/effect of slip, and the bars in the centre (which presumably go down in endurance events) would show the 'cliff' if it was an F1 tyre, with the wear decreasing at a fairly constant rate and then suddenly dropping away.
Again, you have separated what I believe is part of the same process. All unbalancing of the car you describe is just shifting the loads around the contact patches. You have repeated yourself so I'd better do the same - during TBO/TTO, the rear doesn't have enough grip as you say, because the tyres are unloaded to the point where the contact patch is tiny and going through concentrated temperature fluctuations on the surface. As for power oversteer, the weight transfer is to the rear, so the tyre is heavily loaded with a bigger contact patch, and a much more violent force (from the engine) needs to overcome the traction and cause all that surface heating, which happens much more rapidly, hence the snappiness.
Rain adds extra complication, and indeed traction is reduced overall by the liquid element. But where rubber meets road, it's the same deal. There are still parts of the rubber in direct contact with the road just the same as in the dry. The water is dispersed into the grooves, allowing small sections of rubber to touch the track. These sections, under slip, will again go through surface temperature fluctuations that change the grip level. I know it seems crazy to suggest that even in the rain, the rubber can overheat. But I think does, but I stress again, on a microscopic level, not the whole tyre. Look at the wet tyres in F1 - in wet starts/restarts, drivers on full wets weave side to side and do burnouts to get them up to operating temperature just like a dry tyre. If the rubber remained cool all the time in wet conditions, how could they heat tyres in this way?
TL;DR I believe any slip, from a massive drift to the subtlest TTO, causes significant temperature fluctuations on the tyre's surface at the microscopic level, which directly affects grip levels, moment to moment. It doesn't affect overall tyre performance unless the surface is overheated for an extended period of time (or if it is an extreme burnout that ruins the whole tyre in one shot). As long as the surface can return immediately to normal temperature after a slip, the overall performance will stay roughly the same until the tyre is completely worn.
Dash Kappei
Not actually that important
Has anyone else's ps3 frozen while playing this at all?
Mine's frozen 3 times so far and once 1 of the license tests failed to load. My previous race was kind of stuttering....maybe it's my ps3
Yes, once, after loading up a license test.
Also had to quit the game yesterday 'cause I was getting something similar to "error: wrong race informations" and I pudn't start any race.
10 minutes ago I had the clutch and h-shifter die, could only use the paddles. Had to exit the race and reload.
Total time spent in-game: about 4 hours. Racing: 0.8 hours. LOL
Game is chock full of bugs, unfortunately. At least I haven't had my save corrupted or cars in the yard disappear for good, like some.
You mean you dropped it to 670 for good or just for drifting? I can't drift at all with the wheel, I don't understand because while I was terrible in GT5 at least I could do it and be decent in seasonals and such; I dunno it seems different in GT6, maybe it's placebo and I just got worse and need practicing but I find it even harder than on GT5. Maybe it's just me, but I shouldn't need to switch to the DS3 to do drifting events.
AstroNut325
Member
Whoa... Trip down memory lane. I would love a RS2 remake at 1080p/60fps.
gutterboy44
Member
Yes, once, after loading up a license test.
Also had to quit the game yesterday 'cause I was getting something similar to "error: wrong race informations" and I pudn't start any race.
10 minutes ago I had the clutch and h-shifter die, could only use the paddles. Had to exit the race and reload.
Total time spent in-game: about 4 hours. Racing: 0.8 hours. LOL
Game is chock full of bugs, unfortunately. At least I haven't had my save corrupted or cars in the yard disappear for good, like some.
You mean you dropped it to 670 for good or just for drifting? I can't drift at all with the wheel, I don't understand because while I was terrible in GT5 at least I could do it and be decent in seasonals and such; I dunno it seems different in GT6, maybe it's placebo and I just got worse and need practicing but I find it even harder than on GT5. Maybe it's just me, but I shouldn't need to switch to the DS3 to do drifting events.
I only use 670 on drifting. 900 for everything else so far. I haven't done any formula cars or rally so I haven't had a chance with that. I should see how 670 feels with race trimed cars. I am so used to 900.
Jesus that sounds good, never had a MS console, so I never played it, but damn. 2004, OG Xbox. Step up your fucking game PD.
It's easily in the top 3 best Xbox games. And it ran at a solid 60fps. DICE worked wonders on the xbox.
DownWithTheShip
Member
They're not usually this slow.
The update for it is slow too. 1207MB update took about 8 minutes to download, but 40 minutes to install.
state_vector_collapse
Member
Don't worry, the long install is normal. I thought mine was broken as it was taking so long (as you say, well over an hour) but some in here said they had the same problem, and google threw up a few more people all saying the same thing. God knows what it is doing all that time - uncompressing data maybe?