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"I need a New PC!" 2011 Edition of SSD's for everyone! |OT|

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Hazaro

relies on auto-aim
scotcheggz said:
I'm going to be building a new PC soon, I've been using laptops for a long while though, so I haven't built a PC for years, the last one was an Athlon XP with a Radeon 9800 Pro lol. Would someone mind checking if this is all OK/compatible?

Seagate barracuda 1TB HDD
i5 2500K
ASUS P8P67 Mobo
Arctic cooler
G-Skill Ripjaw 8GB DDR3 PC3-12800 1600Mhz
Radeon 6950 (possibly a Nvidea 560Ti?)
750W PSU
Some case
Some DVD

Does all that look fine? Anyone have any suggestions to change it? All in it comes to £775, I want to stick about the same kind of price if possible. Also, I won't be doing this for about a month, so is there anything on the horizon i should be aware of?

Also, I'm not really sure about how high PC tech goes these days, i will be using this for work but also for gaming. What kind of performance would this put out? I'm a bit confused about SLI and the billions of GPUs these days.
Just check you will have room for a 6950 in a 330. I think it will be a very tight fit.
Also get a 212+ cooler if you can.
sh4mike said:
Need some advice for the Sandy bridge motherboard recall.

NewEgg will be contacting me in a couple of days to process my P8P67 Pro replacement. I believe there will be an option for me to switch to an alternative board.

So far my P8P67 Pro experience has been miserable, despite using the non-recall SATA ports. I have constant freezes and am looking for a more stable experience. I have not tweaked/OCed my system in any way.

System Specs:
Windows 7 Home Premium 64-bit
i5-2500K
EVGA GTX 570
G.Skill 2x4GB 1600 RAM
Samsung Spinpoint F3 7200RPM 1TB (x2)
Corsair 850HX
ASUS DRW-24B1ST DVD drive
Noctua NH-D14
FT02B-W Case
Cyberpower UPS

Any replacement board recommendations? I'm a newbie with no aspirations to OC. I liked the Asus EZ-Mode (helped with BIOS update, for example), but I am willing to switch manufacturers for stability.

Constant freezing sucks.
Did you test your components?
Run memtest 86+ and a spinrite/other HDD test
 

sh4mike

Member
iNvidious01 said:
Thank you for the links -- I have issues at idle (similar to many folks in that thread) but also when watching movies. I've seen numerous "P8P67 Pro freezing" threads. Seems like it's just a crappy board.

Eager to switch to one that's more stable. I'm paying $100 to have a professional swap the board out (yeah, I know), and I don't want to repeat the return process again.
 

sh4mike

Member
Hazaro said:
Did you test your components?
Run memtest 86+ and a spinrite/other HDD test
I'm still looking for how to run that memtest. Downloaded two versions but seems to want me to burn the file?

Here's my HDD test results when I originally thought it could be the F3.
eba1ao.jpg
 

n0n44m

Member
are you running the latest bios and Intel drivers (inf update, management engine)?

my p8p67 Pro has been rock stable @ 4.5 ghz with auto (lowish) voltage, couldn't be happier except it isnt B3 :p

the bios it came with out of the box was less fantastic however ...
 

sh4mike

Member
n0n44m said:
are you running the latest bios and Intel drivers (inf update, management engine)?

my p8p67 Pro has been rock stable @ 4.5 ghz with auto (lowish) voltage, couldn't be happier except it isnt B3 :p

the bios it came with out of the box was less fantastic however ...

Hitting delete during startup, it says my BIOS is 1204. Surprisingly it listed my RAM at 1333 (rather than 1600) but the full 8GB is listed.

As an aside, it used to take 30 seconds to boot my PC. As of a couple weeks ago, it's closer to 3 minutes. This timing didn't coincide with any BIOS update (last did that a month ago) or other changes -- perhaps related to a Windows update.

Not sure about Intel drivers, and unclear what you wrote as "inf update" and "management engine." I'll play around with Google for a bit.

Edit: Ran the Intel drive update utility. Everything was OK.
 
I always see this thread bumped and I haven't really had a good reason to look at it until now.

Interested in upgrading a few things, but I'm not quite sure what I should do.

At the moment, my current specs are:

AMD Athlon 64 X2 5200+
Zotac nVidia 9600GT 1GB 256bit DDR3
4GB of DDR2 800, though my motherboard supports DDR2 1066 I believe. Using 800 because I had it already when I got my new motherboard.
I think my PSU is 420W.

Really, I'm mainly interested in upgrading my processor first thing.

My mobo is AM2+, so I think it would support AM3 with a bios update? I kind of remember reading that when I first bought it. Not sure if that's true or not, and I'm not really in a place where I can look that up right now. So if someone knows that off the top of their head and can give me an answer, that'd be nice.

I was looking at three processors around the same price on newegg:

AMD Athlon II X4 640 Propus 3.0GHz - $100
AMD Athlon II X4 645 Propus 3.1GHz - $109
AMD Phenom II X4 840 3.2GHz - $110

All free shipping, so they're generally around the same price. I was wondering if there's either something better around the same price range(~$120) or if one of those stands out as better than the others(I would assume the Phenom, but since I haven't really been following hardware in years, I don't know if there's any glaring problems with the Phenom series or anything).

Any help or suggestions would be appreciated. Thanks.
 

Hazaro

relies on auto-aim
sh4mike said:
I'm still looking for how to run that memtest. Downloaded two versions but seems to want me to burn the file?

Here's my HDD test results when I originally thought it could be the F3.
You burn memtest to a cd as an image and boot from it at startup. Let it run at least 8 minutes, 15+ preferred. Overnight if possible.

Reinstall your graphics drivers using driver sweeper.

Extended boot time is expected. Fresh installs are always fast and they get bogged down pretty easy unless you have an SSD. 3 minutes seems a bit long though.
Ajemsuhgao said:
I always see this thread bumped and I haven't really had a good reason to look at it until now.

Interested in upgrading a few things, but I'm not quite sure what I should do.

At the moment, my current specs are:

AMD Athlon 64 X2 5200+
Zotac nVidia 9600GT 1GB 256bit DDR3
4GB of DDR2 800, though my motherboard supports DDR2 1066 I believe. Using 800 because I had it already when I got my new motherboard.
I think my PSU is 420W.

Really, I'm mainly interested in upgrading my processor first thing.

My mobo is AM2+, so I think it would support AM3 with a bios upgrade? I kind of remember reading that when I first bought it. Not sure if that's true or not, and I'm not really in a place where I can look that up right now. So if someone knows that off the top of their head and can give me an answer, that'd be nice.

I was looking at three processors around the same price on newegg:

AMD Athlon II X4 640 Propus 3.0GHz - $100
AMD Athlon II X4 645 Propus 3.1GHz - $109
AMD Phenom II X4 840 3.2GHz - $110

All free shipping, so they're generally around the same price. I was wondering if there's either something better around the same price range(~$120) or if one of those stands out as better than the others(I would assume the Phenom, but since I haven't really been following hardware in years, I don't know if there's any glaring problems with the Phenom series or anything).

Any help or suggestions would be appreciated. Thanks.
Enter your motherboard into google and go to the manf. support page. There will be a CPU SUPPORT list or .pdf where you can check which CPUs are supported under which BIOS revisions.

At $110 the Phenom is a nice choice.
 

Makoto

Member
Quick question, I have a 9800GT that I plan on replacing and that replacement could be an ATI/AMD card, what specifically should I do to make sure my computer will have transitioned properly from an nVidia card to an ATI/AMD card?

I ask because I've already Googled what one should do but much of information is from previous years and I just want to make sure if there's a better way to do this.
 

Hazaro

relies on auto-aim
vidal said:
Quick question, I have a 9800GT that I plan on replacing and that replacement could be an ATI/AMD card, what specifically should I do to make sure my computer will have transitioned properly from an nVidia card to an ATI/AMD card?

I ask because I've already Googled what one should do but much of information is from previous years and I just want to make sure if there's a better way to do this.
Driver sweeper.
 

Veelk

Banned
teh_pwn said:
If it's a good power supply and it has the connections needed, it may work. But if it's not really able to do 750 watts and you play a game that rails the GPUs you could have issues.

Also check to make sure you can actually fit both GPUs in your motherboard/case. They tend to consume 2 slots each. Something to consider if you have other boards connected to other PCIe/PCI slots.

It says it's 750 watts. I don't know how to check if it's not if I can't rely on the product information that comes with it. And I'll check for space. Thanks for the help.
 
Quick question, I have a 9800GT that I plan on replacing and that replacement could be an ATI/AMD card, what specifically should I do to make sure my computer will have transitioned properly from an nVidia card to an ATI/AMD card?

I ask because I've already Googled what one should do but much of information is from previous years and I just want to make sure if there's a better way to do this.

Uninstall the nVidia drivers?

The 9800GT is a darn good card. I'm still rocking one...until my order arrives.
 

Hazaro

relies on auto-aim
Generic said:
It says it's 750 watts. I don't know how to check if it's not if I can't rely on the product information that comes with it. And I'll check for space. Thanks for the help.
If its an antec,corsair,pc&c,xfx,zalman, or seasonic it should be fine. CM is ok there as well.
Just post the model.
 

Darkhadou

Neo Member
Add Overclockers to the list of UK places to buy, easily the best retailer along with Scan. And free next day delivery for loyal forum members (Y).

Anywho- Enermax Galaxy blew out last week after some absurd surge just a few days after my 3 year warranty ran out =( In the market for a new one now currently got my eyes on the Antec TruePower 750W. 80+ Plus Bronze.
 

scotcheggz

Member
Hazaro said:
Just check you will have room for a 6950 in a 330. I think it will be a very tight fit.
Also get a 212+ cooler if you can.

Thank you very much. The 212 was only £1 more, so I switched that out and I've been looking at cases and this Silverstone PS03 looks to be much bigger.

Thanks again. I had no idea GPUs were so big these days.
 

scotcheggz

Member
whatsinaname said:
Edit: This post doesn't exist.

lol I read it, will probably stick with the 330 if you do run one in it, since it looks a lot nicer than the more expensive cases. i notice they all go a bit "extreme" looking after about £40.
 

Shambles

Member
Max said:
Is it possible that having my PC on carpet floor could cause audio crackling/popping? Should I put a plastic recycling bag under it or something

Edit: 55 pages ful of people with the same problem with their Realtek/Gigabyte mobo win7 x64 machines

2 days now spent trying to figure this shit out.

No. It's likely caused by poor insulation on components within your PC. I have the same problem which I now believe is caused by the motherboard itself. I have replaced the wire to the front panel audio connection, tried the back panel motherboard connection as well as used a dedicated sound card, all of which result in line interference on my analog outs. The closer I push the front panel wire towards the motherboard the worse the interference gets.

Is anyone in that thread seeing the problem go away if they install a different OS?
 

thomaser

Member
thomaser said:
Question: Windows 7 and all the Office-programs are installed on the SSD, taking up half of it. If I install the complete Adobe Master Collection on it as well, it will almost be full. Should I install those on one of the other hard-disks instead? I love how quickly everything opens up from the SSD, but I have a suspicion that it cannot be smart to completely fill up the drive used for the system itself. What do you people think?

Just bumping this once. There's 35,6GB left on the SSD, and if I install the Adobe programs on it, there will only be left 11,3GB. Is this too little for the main disk where Windows 7 and Office is installed?
 

knitoe

Member
MacAttack said:
hyper 212+
antec 902 w/ 4 fans (2 front/ 1 rear + 200mm top fan) running at high speed.

honestly only ran prime 95 for 15 min but the temps maxed out at 55C and went back down to around 50C a few times.

I know that I need to run prime (much) longer than that but since I will be swapping out this mb (B2) in the next month or so Im not going to spend hours testing it.
I am running 4.5GHz@1.27V with 212+ push/pull and getting ~65C while running prime95 with ambient room temp ~23C. What monitoring programs and it's versions are you using? Yeah, you need to run Prime95 for at least 1 hr. Still, you numbers are amazing for that amount of voltage on air.
 

knitoe

Member
thomaser said:
Just bumping this once. There's 35,6GB left on the SSD, and if I install the Adobe programs on it, there will only be left 11,3GB. Is this too little for the main disk where Windows 7 and Office is installed?
That should be fine. Suggested and you can save some space by moving virtual memory to another HDD.
 

Donos

Member
thomaser said:
Just bumping this once. There's 35,6GB left on the SSD, and if I install the Adobe programs on it, there will only be left 11,3GB. Is this too little for the main disk where Windows 7 and Office is installed?

have you hibernate enabled or disabled ? that's a good 4GB for you when it is off (size depends on your RAM).sorry if you already know it.
I think 11 GB is fine. some programs still install stuff on C: but not so much that you are in danger. wait for the opinion of someone else. i'm just a master race padawan.
 

Chittagong

Gold Member
Reposting from the BF3 thread...

Is it possible to assemble a gaming rig that's not the size of the usual huge PC case, and that would run Battlefield 3 really well?

I'm kind of tempted of getting an "end of the console generation" PC for the next few years and hook it up to my TV and 7.1, but I don't know where to start looking for one.

- Small size
- Great gaming performance
- Cost not an issue
- I don't know anything about building, so preassembled might be good
 

Moobabe

Member
OK - I'm still having issues: The Witcher crashes on startup, HON errors all the time "truncated block", my Guild Wars data corrupt and now wants to redownload 25,000 files - I'm still getting "Memory Management" "BAD_PAGE_HEADER" and pool header BSOD and I've no idea what I've done wrong.

I haven't opened the pc, I haven't moved any components - I've run the windows built in memtest and it says "hardware errors detected" but suggests contacting the manufacturer. I ran check disk and, a few hours later, it did what it had to but still the same errors are occurring. How do I isolate the problem? Shall I restore to factory settings? Roll back all my drivers? System restore to when I got it? I'm at a loss...
 

Max

I am not Max
Shambles said:
No. It's likely caused by poor insulation on components within your PC. I have the same problem which I now believe is caused by the motherboard itself. I have replaced the wire to the front panel audio connection, tried the back panel motherboard connection as well as used a dedicated sound card, all of which result in line interference on my analog outs. The closer I push the front panel wire towards the motherboard the worse the interference gets.

Is anyone in that thread seeing the problem go away if they install a different OS?
This guy says "I'm reasonably sure that it's not a hardware problem as I don't get any skipping in Linux."

He has a similar motherboard, mine's the GIGABYTE GA-P55-UD3. So i'm going to try burning Ubuntu to a CD and seeing if I find the same results

Many people report lag spikes in the DPC latency program, whereas mine shows up perfectly fine.
 

thomaser

Member
knitoe said:
That should be fine. Suggested and you can save some space by moving virtual memory to another HDD.

Donos said:
have you hibernate enabled or disabled ? that's a good 4GB for you when it is off (size depends on your RAM).sorry if you already know it.
I think 11 GB is fine. some programs still install stuff on C: but not so much that you are in danger. wait for the opinion of someone else. i'm just a master race padawan.

Thanks, I'll install them on the SSD then, and move the virtual memory. Hibernating is on, but I'll keep it in mind if necessary. Thanks again!
 

DrForester

Kills Photobucket
So I'm addicted to the SSD on my desktop.

I now want one for my laptop. It's a SATA II. I would like to go 160 or higher, I don't need that much yet, but I am thinking I may need a new laptop in about a year, so I'd like to use this SSD on it.

So two questions.

Anyone have any recommendations for good ones, but won't break the bank?

Can I use a SATA III drive on a SATA II laptop (and vice versa )?
 
AMD Phenom II X4 955 Deneb 3.8ghz OC
Gigabyte GA870A-UD3 mobo AM3 socket
Radeon HD 6950-6970 Bios flashed
Kingston HyperX 8GB DDR3 1600mhz 9-9-9-27 latency
Northbridge 2200Mhz OC
Hyper Transport link 2000Mhz-2200Mhz OC

Hyper Transport link changed to 2.2Mhz and I get a performance gain. So I visit wikipedia to get a better understanding of what the tech is and I read it has a connection to ram particularly DDR. Now my mobo, Hyper Transport bus is 5200MT/s with a bidirectional bandwidth of 41.6 GB/s at 32-bits and unidirectional bandwidth its 10.4 GB/s at 16-bits.
Now my memory bandwidth is 10.7 GB/s, thats just one module at 1600Mhz(4GB), total amount 8 GB.

I was wondering how much of a positive affect this is having on overall bandwidth or negative, assuming I were to increase the clock to 2600Mhz. Wouldn't it mean I increased the amount of available bandwidth to the CPU, Northbridge, and southbridge?

Wow, looks like its connected to PCI-E as well.
 

MacAttack

Member
knitoe said:
I am running 4.5GHz@1.27V with 212+ push/pull and getting ~65C while running prime95 with ambient room temp ~23C. What monitoring programs and it's versions are you using? Yeah, you need to run Prime95 for at least 1 hr. Still, you numbers are amazing for that amount of voltage on air.

Im using Speedfan to check temps.

Ive been running Dolphin for the past hour + and been monitoring cpu usage and temps. Very scientific testing so Im sure PC-GAF will be impressed. It only runs on two cores but they get bounced up to 100% usage pretty consistently and my temps for those cores are around 35C with Dolphin running.

Take it for what its worth (very little), but at the moment this is the hardest I will be taxing my system. Maybe Ill let Prime 95 run overnight if Im bored. Is there a way to log the temps so I can review them in the morning?

Dynamic- I was reading this review of the GD55 and it says the case fans 3-4 on the mb are not controllable by software. Dont know if you already figured that out but there you go.
 

Ecto311

Member
DrForester said:
So I'm addicted to the SSD on my desktop.

I now want one for my laptop. It's a SATA II. I would like to go 160 or higher, I don't need that much yet, but I am thinking I may need a new laptop in about a year, so I'd like to use this SSD on it.

So two questions.

Anyone have any recommendations for good ones, but won't break the bank?

Can I use a SATA III drive on a SATA II laptop (and vice versa )?

Have you seen this deal, newegg has an OCZ vertex 2 50gb for $89 - $75 after rebate. I am considering it my self but not sure if it's a good deal/good drive.
 

T-Matt

Member
Chittagong said:
Reposting from the BF3 thread...

Is it possible to assemble a gaming rig that's not the size of the usual huge PC case, and that would run Battlefield 3 really well?

I'm kind of tempted of getting an "end of the console generation" PC for the next few years and hook it up to my TV and 7.1, but I don't know where to start looking for one.

- Small size
- Great gaming performance
- Cost not an issue
- I don't know anything about building, so preassembled might be good
Yes it is possible, usually referred to as small form factor. The downside of these from my reading is usually lack of airflow compared to bigger towers.
You'll need to decide how small you want. Lian li and silverstone are a couple makers of smaller computer cases that can still handle powerful hardware.
 

knitoe

Member
MacAttack said:
Im using Speedfan to check temps.

Ive been running Dolphin for the past hour + and been monitoring cpu usage and temps. Very scientific testing so Im sure PC-GAF will be impressed. It only runs on two cores but they get bounced up to 100% usage pretty consistently and my temps for those cores are around 35C with Dolphin running.

Take it for what its worth (very little), but at the moment this is the hardest I will be taxing my system. Maybe Ill let Prime 95 run overnight if Im bored. Is there a way to log the temps so I can review them in the morning?

Dynamic- I was reading this review of the GD55 and it says the case fans 3-4 on the mb are not controllable by software. Dont know if you already figured that out but there you go.
Don't think Speedfan works with Sandy Bridge. I just tried it and was getting ~55C while other programs, Real Temp, Core Temp, HWmonitor and etc., it's showing ~65% using Prime95.
 

Hazaro

relies on auto-aim
Chittagong said:
Reposting from the BF3 thread...

Is it possible to assemble a gaming rig that's not the size of the usual huge PC case, and that would run Battlefield 3 really well?

I'm kind of tempted of getting an "end of the console generation" PC for the next few years and hook it up to my TV and 7.1, but I don't know where to start looking for one.

- Small size
- Great gaming performance
- Cost not an issue
- I don't know anything about building, so preassembled might be good
Absolutely you can do it. If you have enough money you can do anything you want except shorten graphics cards. It's all up to you.
I'd ask on a SFF forum or HTPC. It all depends on your budget what you can get, really. Just make sure you set something in stone. Looking at $500-$1000.

http://www.overclockers.com/gaming-tight-spaces-miniitx/
Moobabe said:
OK - I'm still having issues: The Witcher crashes on startup, HON errors all the time "truncated block", my Guild Wars data corrupt and now wants to redownload 25,000 files - I'm still getting "Memory Management" "BAD_PAGE_HEADER" and pool header BSOD and I've no idea what I've done wrong.

I haven't opened the pc, I haven't moved any components - I've run the windows built in memtest and it says "hardware errors detected" but suggests contacting the manufacturer. I ran check disk and, a few hours later, it did what it had to but still the same errors are occurring. How do I isolate the problem? Shall I restore to factory settings? Roll back all my drivers? System restore to when I got it? I'm at a loss...
Run memtest86+ after burning it to a CD. Sounds like you need to RMA your RAM.
 

JWong

Banned
[03/13/2011 at 05:02 pm] +3.3V 3.648 Abnormal
[03/13/2011 at 05:02 pm] +3.3V 3.472 Normal
[03/13/2011 at 05:02 pm] +3.3V 3.632 Abnormal
[03/13/2011 at 05:02 pm] +3.3V 3.360 Normal
[03/13/2011 at 05:05 pm] +3.3V 3.712 Abnormal
[03/13/2011 at 05:05 pm] +3.3V 3.456 Normal

2ikbajk.jpg
 
JWong said:
[03/13/2011 at 05:02 pm] +3.3V 3.648 Abnormal
[03/13/2011 at 05:02 pm] +3.3V 3.472 Normal
[03/13/2011 at 05:02 pm] +3.3V 3.632 Abnormal
[03/13/2011 at 05:02 pm] +3.3V 3.360 Normal
[03/13/2011 at 05:05 pm] +3.3V 3.712 Abnormal
[03/13/2011 at 05:05 pm] +3.3V 3.456 Normal

2ikbajk.jpg
What PSU?
 

MacAttack

Member
knitoe said:
Don't think Speedfan works with Sandy Bridge. I just tried it and was getting ~55C while other programs, Real Temp, Core Temp, HWmonitor and etc., it's showing ~65% using Prime95.


Cool, thanks for the info. Im gonna run it for an hr right now. Its been going for 15 min and its floating between 65-70C. (using Real Temp)

edit: Ran it for an hour, same results. Thanks for talking me through this. Im sure Ill be back when it comes time to manually OC my B3 board.
 

JWong

Banned
MB: Asus P8P67 Pro
CPU: i7 2600k
GPU: Nvidia GTX 560 Ti superclocked
RAM: G.skill 4gig Ripjaw X ddr3-1600
PSU: A 4-5 year old OCZ GameXstream 600w

I don't think I lack power, and I don't think my PSU is busted since it was working fine just before the new parts.

OC.net just tells me to check my PSU with a multimetre, but if it's not my PSU, I heard that P67's have an issue with its sensors triggering the surge protection. I really don't want to turn off the surge protection...
 
JWong said:
MB: Asus P8P67 Pro
CPU: i7 2600k
GPU: Nvidia GTX 560 Ti superclocked
RAM: G.skill 4gig Ripjaw X ddr3-1600
PSU: A 4-5 year old OCZ GameXstream 600w

I don't think I lack power, and I don't think my PSU is busted since it was working fine just before the new parts.

OC.net just tells me to check my PSU with a multimetre, but if it's not my PSU, I heard that P67's have an issue with its sensors triggering the surge protection. I really don't want to turn off the surge protection...
Well check the PSU first. And it's not about lacking power, it's about how reliably it can be delivered by the PSU.

My guess is I think you'll find the PSU is causing the problem, and you should probably just end up replacing it with a better one.

Edit: I'm not sure how far off 3.3V is bad for a system. Someone more knowledgeable would have to chime in.
 
scotcheggz said:
lol I read it, will probably stick with the 330 if you do run one in it, since it looks a lot nicer than the more expensive cases. i notice they all go a bit "extreme" looking after about £40.

Haha. I am idiot, ignore my post. I saw the 330 and my brain parsed that as 300. The Antec 300... So yeah, had to delete the post :|.

You could look at the Antec 300 though, should be in the price range you are looking at. And very clean looking as well.
 

JWong

Banned
opticalmace said:
Well check the PSU first. And it's not about lacking power, it's about how reliably it can be delivered by the PSU.

My guess is I think you'll find the PSU is causing the problem, and you should probably just end up replacing it with a better one.

Edit: I'm not sure how far off 3.3V is bad for a system. Someone more knowledgeable would have to chime in.
I don't know how far it is going because 3.6-3.7 is just on the desktop. Once I get into a game, it reboots when the GPU kicks in.
 

comrade

Member
sh4mike said:
Need some advice for the Sandy bridge motherboard recall.

NewEgg will be contacting me in a couple of days to process my P8P67 Pro replacement. I believe there will be an option for me to switch to an alternative board.

So far my P8P67 Pro experience has been miserable, despite using the non-recall SATA ports. I have constant freezes and am looking for a more stable experience. I have not tweaked/OCed my system in any way.

System Specs:
Windows 7 Home Premium 64-bit
i5-2500K
EVGA GTX 570
G.Skill 2x4GB 1600 RAM
Samsung Spinpoint F3 7200RPM 1TB (x2)
Corsair 850HX
ASUS DRW-24B1ST DVD drive
Noctua NH-D14
FT02B-W Case
Cyberpower UPS

Any replacement board recommendations? I'm a newbie with no aspirations to OC. I liked the Asus EZ-Mode (helped with BIOS update, for example), but I am willing to switch manufacturers for stability.

Constant freezing sucks.
Have zero problems with my P8P67-Pro. I'd suggest settings up your ram manually in the BIOS. Voltage, speed, and timings.
 

Chittagong

Gold Member
Thanks for the thoughts - here is one preassembled configuration I can fit into a small case. Any idea how this would perform?

Intel Core i7 870
8GB DDR3 1333mhz (2x 4GB)
2TB S-ATAII 3.0Gb/s
NVIDIA GeForce GTX 560 Ti 1GB or ATI Radeon HD 6870 1GB

Could this run a few years the new games comfortably on a 1080P TV? Thinking games like Battlefield 3, Modern Warfare 3 etc.
 

Hazaro

relies on auto-aim
For sure. Might want to think about a 2500 with a H61/67 B3 board or something. A lot more power per watt.
Think the 560 is a tiny tiny bit shorter as well.
 
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