Ultima ratio regum
Banned
yeah but they can't be ghost transfered, you need a fresh install or functions like trim os function won't work properly which might slow some brands down.thomaser said:
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"I need a New PC!" 2011 Edition of SSD's for everyone! |OT|
- Thread starter Hazaro
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I built my first computer over the weekend and I'm beginning to wonder if I need to reseat my heatsink. For those running 2500k on a p8p67 board, what are your average idle temps? I'm currently hitting about 33-38˚C with a CoolerMaster Hyper 212+ and a Lian Li K62 case. From what I've read, that's about 5-10˚C warmer than other people's who are just using the stock cooler.
Is it anything I should worry about? (Like I said it's the first computer I've built)
Is it anything I should worry about? (Like I said it's the first computer I've built)
LiquidMetal14
hide your water-based mammals
Hmmmm, are you using realtemp? I get about 30C idle on core 2. The rest are about 23-27C. This is with an OC and speedstep on of course. My load temps never exceed 57C. I have the same cooler but a BIOSTAR motherboard. I didn't even use anything but the thermal compound supplied with the 212 either. I know many are adamant about using Arctc 5 but as you see, my temps are rather good even with so-so wire management.shift J said:
Again, same CPU (2500K) and a 4.5ghz OC. You tinker with your fan profile yet? AND I highly reccomend adding a 2nd fan
All three of the cases I mentioned have good stock cooling, and come as positive pressure airflow set-ups in stock form. Depending on your preferences/needs, and mix of components, you can change that to negative pressure, or balanced pressure. The SilverStones have the benefit of 3 fans, against 2 for that Lian Li, though all three have a range of configuration options.Palette Swap said:
If you're going to go with the Lian Li, and intend to run a discreet GPU, I'd add at least one more 120mm fan. That way, you'd have the option to slow down the fans for quietness, while maintaining airflow that's equal to, or better than, stock.
All three use standard ATX PSUs, but will also take SFX PSUs with an adapter.
Here's the PC-C50 with a Noctua NH-C14, quad core, and 6870:
http://farm6.static.flickr.com/5122/5343138380_351079de2c_b.jpg
http://farm6.static.flickr.com/5283/5342535303_9a1cc980f1_b.jpg
Building it yourself is a really good idea. That way you know everything that's in there, and how all of it connects/relates to each component.Chittagong said:
When you're ready to buy, just select your components and post them here for feedback. Once you have the final component list, and watched the build videos (here and elsewhere), take your time going through each step, double-checking as you go along (fitment and connections). If you have any issues, we should be able to help you trouble-shoot.
BTW, just noticed that my last post with the SilverStone GD06 and Lian Li PC-C50, had an incorrect link for the SilverStone GD05. Here's the GD06 alternative:
http://www.silverstonetek.com/products/p_contents.php?pno=GD05&area=
Currently, only high-end cases (or cases from higher-end brands) have them, and even then, it's just a handful.mkenyon said:
For instance, the SilverStone Milo ML03 is one of the few to have an internal USB 3.0 option.
ASRock's P55 Extreme4 is one of the few motherboards (the first one, IIRC) to have a connection, or adapter included (along with the P67 Asus models).
I'm confused about this usb 3.0. Does the Corsair 600T use the wrong header cable for its front USB 3.0 slot? Everything I see on their forum says you need to pass through to the back of the case to the back of the mobo. Is it just a male USB 3.0 connector and not the header cable in the 600T?
LiquidMetal14 said:
No, I'm using HWiNFO 32. I have the cpu fan going to 1300rpm and the front chasis fan at 1100rpm (Are these set too low/high?) the rest are plugged into the PSU. I also haven't OC'd or anything and it's currently reading:
Core0: 25C
Core1: 39C
Core2: 35C
Core3: 33C
The 600T is like most cases. Its front panel USB 3.0 has external male connectors. If you buy a board like the one that Asus MisterNoisy posted, you would just need an adapter to connect to the internal female (instead of routing the cables to the external female connections). Some aftermarket brands already sell that type of adapter.CrankyJay said:
Asus also sells a "deluxe" version of that board which comes with an adapter.
It's like the ASRock P55 Extreme4 I posted above. You keep the adapter inside the case (in a bay, or even tucked away somewhere), and simply plug the front panel leads into it, instead of running them to the back of the case. With the ASRock P55 Extreme4, you can also place the adapter in an external 3.5" bay if your case doesn't have USB 3, or if you want additional USB 3 connections out front.
What kind of numbers do you get when running a stress test like Prime95? Idle temps can vary wildly depending on the environment - it could just be your ambient temp is higher than usual. I sit at ~35 degrees with a 212+ most of the time myself, but only hit high 50s at load (also OCed to 4.5 GHz like LiquidMetal).shift J said:
LiquidMetal14
hide your water-based mammals
I should correct myself first as I meant core 1 like you. So you have a push/pull configuration and a splitter for that? Once you do that, they will both run in tandem for the best airflow possible. If you do this, make sure you push to the back of your case so the air can exit from the back ventilation instead of circulating air in the case. I let mine go on auto but you can set your own profile in the bios or in a program like Speedfan. I don't think your temps are too high but they could be lower. You can try reseating if it makes you feel more comfortable. I felt happy with my temps and such as they were from the initial setup so I really can't say I've had troubles with my particular rig. Your temps should be lower though so you want to definitely make sure you stuff is tight and lined up. I eye'd mine to make sure it was parallel with surrounding parts. I hope that makes sense as I'm trying to be as simple as I can be.shift J said:
ExMachina said:
Running Prime95 my temps just hit:
Core0:43C
Core1:55C
Core2:53C
Core3:50C
I'm worried because my pc is hitting the same temps as yours OCed.
LiquidMetal14 said:
No, I don't have a push/pull setup yet. I currently just have 1 fan on the Hyper 212 blowing through it and out the rear of the case. The chassis fan I was referring to is actually at the bottom front of the case sucking in air.
BloodySinner
Banned
My order shipped this morning. Does anyone know if HAWX 2 is a Steamworks title?
LiquidMetal14
hide your water-based mammals
Going by your 72C number, I am doing very well. As I said, I hardly ever hit 60C even under heavy load at 4.5ghz. I think he just wants it to run at the most optimal (tempt wise) as it can. I see nothing wrong with those temps either without running intel burntest or prime95.
shift J, run prime for a couple of hours and monitor it. If it sticks in that 55-65C range, I'd say your doing ok. If your going to OC I would personally tidy things up but definitely test. Try setting the multiplier to get to 4ghz. As Exodus stated, it's more relevant to see your temps under some more serious stress like an OC or extensive intel burn test. Run a 10 pass maximum test. It takes about 25 minutes. If no errors, then you're good.
And monitor those temps!
I'd take Exodus's advice over mine in terms of worries. Just make sure it's not unstable an unnecessarily hot.
shift J, run prime for a couple of hours and monitor it. If it sticks in that 55-65C range, I'd say your doing ok. If your going to OC I would personally tidy things up but definitely test. Try setting the multiplier to get to 4ghz. As Exodus stated, it's more relevant to see your temps under some more serious stress like an OC or extensive intel burn test. Run a 10 pass maximum test. It takes about 25 minutes. If no errors, then you're good.
And monitor those temps!
I'd take Exodus's advice over mine in terms of worries. Just make sure it's not unstable an unnecessarily hot.
72.6C is Intel's max temp, which is a pretty conservative value. I just want to point out that people get obsessed about temps. Is it better to have lower temps? Yeah, but as long as you're running under spec you shouldn't have any reliability issues. I want my temps going as close as possible to the rated temps so I can keep my fan speeds low and my PC quiet.
You are slightly incorrect I'm afraid.TheExodu5 said:
72.6C is the maximum TCase temp for the Intel i5 2500K, which is completely separate from the maximum Core temps, which can happily hit 80C without serious harm.
Funnily enough I have been running OCCT a lot because I have been testing some IC Diamond TIM for another forum (I got the stuff for free in exchange for testing it). Notice the difference between my hottest core temp and the TCase temp:
Core 3 (My hottest core), tested at 4.4Ghz:
My TCase, on the same frequency:
The TCase is relevant because it measures the efficiency of the HST and TIM, the better the setup, the quicker the heat transfer/dissipation from the cores to the HSF. As long as you have a decent cooling setup, you're very, very unlikely ever to breach the TCase limits.
opticalmace
Member
SSD is best AFAIK. If your mobo supports 6Gb/s SATA go for one of the new Sandforce drives. The Vertex 3 and Intel 510 should be out soon (510 is out already I think?), with other options coming shortly from um Corsair and someone else.rosjos44 said:
http://www.anandtech.com/show/4186/ocz-vertex-3-preview-the-first-client-focused-sf2200
http://www.tomshardware.com/reviews/vertex-3-sandforce-ssd,2869.html
Otherwise I'd say just check Tom's and AnandTech for the best performing SSD in your budget.
The Vertex 3 drives should be out really soon, so maybe that'll drive the prices of the 2-series down. I'm not sure how long it'll take, but FYI.Ecto311 said:
http://www.techpowerup.com/142135/AMD-FX-Zambezi-Processor-Box-Art-Revealed.html
http://www.nordichardware.se/nyheter/69-cpustyrkrets/42581-uppdaterad-boxgrafik-och-logotyp-foer-amd-fx-bulldozer-naermar-sig.html
Also OCZ has bought Indilinx who used to be the other SSD controller after Intel until SandForce came around.
http://www.ocztechnology.com/aboutocz/press/2011/421
I just ordered an eyefinity 6 card for my 6 monitor setup (MD230x6: if you're interested in these or the x3....DONT. They are a nightmare, all models come with wrong EDID info for the displayport, making it impossible to enable bezel correction when mixing displayport and other outputs like DVI-D. Not to mention samsung will take 5 months to flash them...after calling you a liar and saying their engineers cant reproduce the problem... actually they still haven't flashed mine but should this week, along with replacing one of the 6 that developed some vertical lines). Anyways since I'm upgrading is anyone interested in buying my previous 6870 crossfire setup? 300 + 15 shipping gets you both, still have boxes and everything. Asus reference model.
(PS to mods would this count as "advertising your product"? that sounds more like Asus advertising their cards than me selling my personal ones. If it's not allowed I'll delete it but DONT BAN ME BRO!)
(PS to mods would this count as "advertising your product"? that sounds more like Asus advertising their cards than me selling my personal ones. If it's not allowed I'll delete it but DONT BAN ME BRO!)
It's simple. Once you have all the pieces in, it'll boot to the bios screen so you can check everything looks ok. Pop a windows 7 disc in, it'll boot from that and it'll install like any app. Really painless.Chittagong said:
We can help with specific shopping lists to make sure all your components will go together (eg in the silverstone case you'll want a slightly shorter COU cooler, so a noctua 9SE is good), plus if you want it discreet I can suggest replacement quiet fans. We can take you through step by step as you need it.
I'm no PC builder, but I like my tech. I was wary but it surprised me how simple it was.
InEffectMode
Member
We do have an official buy sell thread, but I haven't seen it in ages-probably since I'm not looking.K701 said:
Need help with this because i have to order today.
So i ordered all the other stuff but im stuck on my GPU and i want to order it today so i can have it here tomorrow.
so i can get the ASUS 6950 with the extra cooler thing on the top for 258 euro
or i can get the ASUS 6950 standard without cooling and thats than 220 euro
or for 300 so about 40 more i can get a 570.
both cards will either be put in sli or cf in the coming weeks.
Also what monitors are better for movies and gaming, led edge lit or full led.
http://tweakers.net/pricewatch/266773/iiyama-e2472hd-b1.html#tab:info
http://tweakers.net/pricewatch/266587/samsung-syncmaster-bx2431.html#tab:info
So i ordered all the other stuff but im stuck on my GPU and i want to order it today so i can have it here tomorrow.
so i can get the ASUS 6950 with the extra cooler thing on the top for 258 euro
or i can get the ASUS 6950 standard without cooling and thats than 220 euro
or for 300 so about 40 more i can get a 570.
both cards will either be put in sli or cf in the coming weeks.
Also what monitors are better for movies and gaming, led edge lit or full led.
http://tweakers.net/pricewatch/266773/iiyama-e2472hd-b1.html#tab:info
http://tweakers.net/pricewatch/266587/samsung-syncmaster-bx2431.html#tab:info
Mr. Pointy
Member
I hope that, core for core, FX is better than Sandy Bridge because once Intel counters, it'll be difficult to hit back.
EatChildren
Currently polling second in Australia's federal election (first in the Gold Coast), this feral may one day be your Bogan King.
Alright bitches its game time. My GPU is mighty fucked and I need a new PC. I've sold some crack and done some other things I dont want to talk about but funds are in the process of laying the smack down on a new beast. Help my PC GAF, you're my only hope, because I'm out of the loop on pricing and want some guidance on what I should aim for in retiring my faithful companion in favour of a hotter, sexier model.
Budget: ~AU$1,500. I'd prefer to go under rather than over.
What I need: MBO, CPU, RAM, GPU, PSU. Maybe case.
What I dont need: HDD, monitor, speakers, mouse and keyboard. Maybe case.
Cliff notes:
- I dont need a monitor or HDD because I already have decent ones that dont need replacing. My monitor's native res is 1920x1080, so that is what I'll be gaming at.
- A system that can be OC'd now or at a later date is something to think about. I did that with my current system, and wouldn't mind doing it again. As with my current system, I'm unlikely to upgrade anything other than the GPU over a ~5 years. My current system, despite being old, stood the test of time thanks to OCing and giving a boost with a new GPU. I'd do the same with a new system when needed. If I need to buy a proper CPU fan for this, I'd be happy to (as I did with my current system).
- I'd prefer to keep my current case if possible, simply because it saves quite a bit of money. It's an older variation of the Antec P189, the Antec P180. Air circulation seems fine, but I'm not sure everything would fit. If I had to upgrade I would, but I really would prefer to gut the case and put everything in there. I like the case. It's sturdy, and has served me well.
- I must stress my budget limit is AU$1,500. It cant go over.
Budget: ~AU$1,500. I'd prefer to go under rather than over.
What I need: MBO, CPU, RAM, GPU, PSU. Maybe case.
What I dont need: HDD, monitor, speakers, mouse and keyboard. Maybe case.
Cliff notes:
- I dont need a monitor or HDD because I already have decent ones that dont need replacing. My monitor's native res is 1920x1080, so that is what I'll be gaming at.
- A system that can be OC'd now or at a later date is something to think about. I did that with my current system, and wouldn't mind doing it again. As with my current system, I'm unlikely to upgrade anything other than the GPU over a ~5 years. My current system, despite being old, stood the test of time thanks to OCing and giving a boost with a new GPU. I'd do the same with a new system when needed. If I need to buy a proper CPU fan for this, I'd be happy to (as I did with my current system).
- I'd prefer to keep my current case if possible, simply because it saves quite a bit of money. It's an older variation of the Antec P189, the Antec P180. Air circulation seems fine, but I'm not sure everything would fit. If I had to upgrade I would, but I really would prefer to gut the case and put everything in there. I like the case. It's sturdy, and has served me well.
- I must stress my budget limit is AU$1,500. It cant go over.
Outdoor Miner
Member
TheExodu5 said:
Losing to a 4870 in benchmarks, yet costing $150 yikes. Feel bad for anyone that gets duped into buying it.
I doubt it will be better core for core. It's still essentially the same architecture as their hexacores, is it not? Thing is, they don't need to be better core for core. Even if they're 30-40% slower per core, they'll still dominate the 8 thread benchmarks. That's all they need to do to stay viable for the time being. When intel brings out their 8 core offerings, I doubt they'll be nearly as affordable as Bulldozer.Mr. Pointy said:
BloodySinner
Banned
I almost bought a GTX 560 Ti. Is that a bad card? I overlooked it because of price. The GTX 460 1GB was a much, much cheaper option.
Can you guys recommend me a USB Wireless modem? I'll be using a BT Home Hub 3, which is their latest Wireless N fibre optic router.
http://www.productsandservices.bt.com/consumerProducts/displayTopic.do?topicId=25746
My old Belkin G MIMMO just ins't up to snuff.
http://www.productsandservices.bt.com/consumerProducts/displayTopic.do?topicId=25746
My old Belkin G MIMMO just ins't up to snuff.
BloodySinner
Banned
Read again.
Alexios
Cores, shaders and BIOS oh my!
I have an E8500 with a GTX285 and 4GB ram on an Asus P5Q motherboard. What's an affordable & easy way to upgrade it in the near future so it will last quite a bit longer before a complete overhaul is necessary? My PSU should be able to handle just about anything. This mid point situation always makes me feel I should go AMD with the next overhaul so I can get new CPUs without much hassle... But I never do. Btw I'm in Europe.
It's no less of a hassle to get a new CPU with AMD. You still need to get a new motherboard for newer CPUs, even though they're pin compatible.Alextended said:
As to your question: just wait for an overhaul. Your PC will be CPU bottlenecked in many games, making GPU upgrades somewhat pointless.
Well, since no one answered I just went ahead and bought this. Great user reviews so thought might as well for only a tenner!
http://www.tp-link.com/products/productDetails.asp?class=&pmodel=TL-WN722NC
http://www.tp-link.com/products/productDetails.asp?class=&pmodel=TL-WN722NC
guys, I need help picking out a cpu/motherboard. I am deciding whether to get the Intel 2600, 2600K or AMD 1100T. I have no plans to overclock my cpu, mostly because I don't know how and I don't think its necessary...but my view on that may change in the future.
As for the motherboard, if i get an intel cpu, should I get a p67 or h67 chipset? I definitely plan on getting a video card, either a 6950 or 560ti, but the p67 looks pricey
Micro center has the 2600/2600K for $250/$270 so it's really tempting to spend a little more and get that over the 1100T, but I don't know if its worth the extra cost. I am looking to spend around 800 to 900 dollars on this pc and I am in no rush to finish building it...I originally planned on building it in May/June.
As for the motherboard, if i get an intel cpu, should I get a p67 or h67 chipset? I definitely plan on getting a video card, either a 6950 or 560ti, but the p67 looks pricey
Micro center has the 2600/2600K for $250/$270 so it's really tempting to spend a little more and get that over the 1100T, but I don't know if its worth the extra cost. I am looking to spend around 800 to 900 dollars on this pc and I am in no rush to finish building it...I originally planned on building it in May/June.
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