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"I need a New PC!" 2011 Edition of SSD's for everyone! |OT|

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n0n44m

Member
Kenka said:
And yeah, in addition, would it be possible to have a case guide as well ? I've lusted over the Cooler Master 690 II Advanced and hope it can last ten years or so. But it has watercooling features that are a bit overkill and not exactly worth the money since I won't use watercooling artifacts at all.

only features it has are space for 2*120 rad on top and bottom, but for the bottom you'd need to remove 4 of the 6 hdd mounts and the top one is also the mounting for the 2 top fans (120 or 140mm)

so not really sure what you mean lol

edit: I agree with all the cases recommended in the OP, just check some reviews on sites like bit-tech.net or techpowerup and see what case you like the looks/features of

edit2: if you mean the difference between the advanced/non advanced : I think that is largely about the HDD dock on top. I really like it and think it is pretty handy, but you can buy a similar USB 2 or 3 device that does the same thing for about 20 to 30 euros...
 

Kenka

Member
n0n44m said:
only features it has are space for 2*120 rad on top and bottom, but for the bottom you'd need to remove 4 of the 6 hdd mounts and the top one is also the mounting for the 2 top fans (120 or 140mm)

so not really sure what you mean lol

edit: I agree with all the cases recommended in the OP, just check some reviews on sites like bit-tech.net or techpowerup and see what case you like the looks/features of

edit2: if you mean the difference between the advanced/non advanced : I think that is largely about the HDD dock on top. I really like it and think it is pretty handy, but you can buy a similar USB 2 or 3 device that does the same thing for about 20 to 30 euros...

Now that's a comprehensive answer, thank you. I'll check again before being loud.
 

Cheech

Member
TheExodu5 said:
To make the 2500K worthwhile, you need a P67 motherboard though, which raises the price another $60-80.

He needs to stop somewhere, and that's a pretty good compromise to me.

Thanks to you and others for signing off on my $650 build from Friday. It is tough working within a price point like that, and still putting together something that is going to be able to handle current and future games without an issue.

I am generally a big fan of ATi cards, but the price point on that Fermi 460 is hard to pass up.
 

Dynamic3

Member
So my mobo only allows me to control 2 fans (+ cpu fan) connected to it despite having 4 ports, how do I control my other 2 fans? And should I have them connected to the mobo or directly to the PSU?

Edit: I just purchased a small Noctua fan for my GPU and I noticed that it has different PSU connectors for different fan speeds. Does this mean that aside from purchasing something like a 5"-bay manual controller, that the 2 fans in question are locked at a certain speed?
 

sk3tch

Member
mrklaw said:
Go for the Xonar card. The Astro mixamp will not give you true positional audio over headphones - the best it can do on its own is two channel audio processed using dolby prologic. The only way it can provide you with surround sound over headphones, is to be fed a surround sound signal over optical out.

But you have optical out on your motherboard right? Yes, but I bet you it doesn't actually support 5.1 for games, only movies and anything already coded in 5.1 - it just passes it out.

To get dolby surround in games, you need dolby digital live, which takes the 5.1 multichannel audio from your game and mixes it to DD5.1 to be sent over optical. Astro mixamp won't do that, your onboard audio almost certainly won't either. The Xonar will

Something cheap like the xonar DG will give you 5.1 audio for games over the optical *and* dolby headphone output.


That info took me days to dig out. seems with all the tech improvements on PCs, audio is still a bit of a dark art.

I believe the mobo I ordered has 8 channel audio out...my question is will I get true surround with my Astro MixAmp if I connect it to my mobo audio via spdif? Here's the board:

http://www.msi.com/product/mb/P67A-GD53.html

I have no problem paying the $20 for the Asus Xonar DX but I don't want to toss money in the wind. :) thanks!
 

iNvid02

Member
sk3tch said:
I believe the mobo I ordered has 8 channel audio out...my question is will I get true surround with my Astro MixAmp if I connect it to my mobo audio via spdif? Here's the board:

http://www.msi.com/product/mb/P67A-GD53.html

I have no problem paying the $20 for the Asus Xonar DX but I don't want to toss money in the wind. :) thanks!

mrk is spot on, simply plugging in the astros (even with mixamp and even if its to an optical/coaxial port) will not give you 5.1 sound - it will on PS3 but its different on PC.

You NEED a soundcard that supports dolby digital live, then connect the astro via coaxial/optical to get 5.1
 
Corky said:
well reviews state that there might be some backbleed, but I don't know if I got lucky but the backbleed on my monitor is pretty much minimal.

edit : and as for panel uniformity, I have not bumped into any color/hue irregularities, though I've read on certain forums that it's not out of the ordinary.

wait, is backbleed a problem?! my LG Flatron Wide 19 inch lcd monitor has those wierd light cloud looking streaks that are slightly visible across the screen under black color. I found it kind of wierd but is it not supposed to be there?
 

Corky

Nine out of ten orphans can't tell the difference.
momolicious said:
wait, is backbleed a problem?! my LG Flatron Wide 19 inch lcd monitor has those wierd light cloud looking streaks that are slightly visible across the screen under black color. I found it kind of wierd but is it not supposed to be there?

what you describe is the phenomenon known as "clouding" , which is an uneven distibution of the backlight across the screen. You obviously want as little as possible or none at all.
 

mrklaw

MrArseFace
Unknown Soldier said:
The Asus Xonar DG is probably the cheapest and easiest course for you to take if you want the realtime Dolby Headphone encoding for virtual surround sound from ordinary 2-channel headphones. You could buy a pair of Logitech G35 USB headphones if you didn't care about what headphones you used, but if you want to use a pair of headphones that you like, that's a good way to go.

I wouldn't suggest spending any more than $30 ($20 after MIR) for a PC soundcard in this day and age. Not when video cards are all including mini-HDMI outputs, and some motherboards are including HDMI outputs too. Any video card or motherboard with HDMI output can stream uncompressed multichannel LPCM to an outboard receiver, which bypasses the need entirely for Dolby Digital Live encoding for output over the older optical/coaxial digital connections.
Providing you have a HDMI equipped receiver, sure
 

mrklaw

MrArseFace
sk3tch said:
I believe the mobo I ordered has 8 channel audio out...my question is will I get true surround with my Astro MixAmp if I connect it to my mobo audio via spdif? Here's the board:

http://www.msi.com/product/mb/P67A-GD53.html

I have no problem paying the $20 for the Asus Xonar DX but I don't want to toss money in the wind. :) thanks!
you don't need the mixamp. You need a soundcard that will mix game audio to optical out, and give you Dolby headphone output.

Mixamp has been oversold for PC IMO. Its ksp is Dolby headphone for consoles - on PC its real value is mixing the mic and headphone audio, and hooking up multiple units, its great for LAN stuff
 

mrklaw

MrArseFace
Dynamic3 said:
So my mobo only allows me to control 2 fans (+ cpu fan) connected to it despite having 4 ports, how do I control my other 2 fans? And should I have them connected to the mobo or directly to the PSU?

Edit: I just purchased a small Noctua fan for my GPU and I noticed that it has different PSU connectors for different fan speeds. Does this mean that aside from purchasing something like a 5"-bay manual controller, that the 2 fans in question are locked at a certain speed?
This confused me for a while too. I was recommended noctua quiet fans but they only had 3 pin plugs and the motherboard had 4. And my motherboard didn't have enough fan sockets.

I just connected them all up direct to the PSU. You probably got two adapters with it. One is a low noise adapter (LNA), the other is an ultra low noise adapter (ULNA). Basically just resistors that slow the fans down, making them quieter.

I run the LNAs with mine and they are nice and quiet but still keep things cool
 
Dynamic3 said:
So my mobo only allows me to control 2 fans (+ cpu fan) connected to it despite having 4 ports, how do I control my other 2 fans? And should I have them connected to the mobo or directly to the PSU?

Edit: I just purchased a small Noctua fan for my GPU and I noticed that it has different PSU connectors for different fan speeds. Does this mean that aside from purchasing something like a 5"-bay manual controller, that the 2 fans in question are locked at a certain speed?

While it varies based on the motherboard, given that yours has 4 fan ports and 2 that have speed control, I think that most likely the motherboard can only control PWM fans (ie. ones that have a 4-pin fan connector), meaning your Noctuas won't work with that. That means that aside from getting a fan controller, the only way to change speeds is to use one of those adapters, which may be good enough for you depending on your needs (depends on how much you value quiet and whether getting noise to your liking will impact cooling, necessitating you to change speeds between idle use and gaming). If your motherboard allows you to control 3-pin connectors though (not too many that do this though), then just plug the fan straight in without any adaptor and control it through software.

It doesn't matter whether you plug them into the motherboard or the PSU, if they're the kind of fans I assume (they come with a small 3-pin fan connector, the speed adaptor also ends in a 3-pin connector, and then there's simply an adapter to convert a 3-pin connector to a Molex connector.) You'd probably want to plug them into a 3-pin connection on the motherboard, though you can also use a 4-pin port in a pinch (just don't expect it to let you control the fan speed).
 

Kenka

Member
BloodySinner said:
The GTX 460 1GB is an excellent card for someone on a budget and can be purchased for much less.

I second that but it would first be interesting to see what card you currently use in your setup.
 
Got my new P67 Rev 3 ASUS Pro board in and installed it today.

However, now my SSD is giving me the dreaded "BOOTMGR is missing -- Press Ctrl+Alt+Del to restart"

Is my best course of action to try this?
 

iNvid02

Member
MikeE21286 said:
Got my new P67 Rev 3 ASUS Pro board in and installed it today.

However, now my SSD is giving me the dreaded "BOOTMGR is missing -- Press Ctrl+Alt+Del to restart"

Is my best course of action to try this?

windows 7 repair is pretty effective, might need to run it more than once but it will fix it
 
So, I am in the finalizing process of picking the pieces for my PC. I asked before but made some changes along the way. Everything should match up but I need a final round check.

Case: Cooler Master CM690 II Advance
MB: Asus P8P67 Pro
CPU: Intel i5-2500k
Thermal Paste: Arctic Cooling MX-4
CPU Cooler: Cooler Master V6 GT
GPU: GIGABYTE GV-N560OC-1GI GeForce GTX 560 Ti (Fermi)
RAM: G.SKILL Sniper 8GB (2 x 4GB)
HDD: SAMSUNG Spinpoint F3 1TB
Drive: ASUS DRW-24B1ST
PSU: CORSAIR TX750 V2 750W
 
iNvidious01 said:
windows 7 repair is pretty effective, might need to run it more than once but it will fix it

Yeah, I tired it.

The BIOS finds my SSD boot drive, but when I go into the Windows 7 repair the SSD is not identified as having a windows 7 installation.

I'm gonna mess around with it for a bit and see what happens...I don't wanna have to re-install all my games/etc. again.

Got it to work.

Had to go into the command prompt and enter some commands to fix the bootrec.exe

All is back up and running again. Just makes me upset around the fact that I had to waste a couple of hours during my weekend to fix this mess.
 

Velion

Member
Quicksilver4648 said:
So, I am in the finalizing process of picking the pieces for my PC. I asked before but made some changes along the way. Everything should match up but I need a final round check.

Case: Cooler Master CM690 II Advance
MB: Asus P8P67 Pro
CPU: Intel i5-2500k
Thermal Paste: Arctic Cooling MX-4
CPU Cooler: Cooler Master V6 GT
GPU: GIGABYTE GV-N560OC-1GI GeForce GTX 560 Ti (Fermi)
RAM: G.SKILL Sniper 8GB (2 x 4GB)
HDD: SAMSUNG Spinpoint F3 1TB
Drive: ASUS DRW-24B1ST
PSU: CORSAIR TX750 V2 750W
Seems like a good build to me.
 

Hazaro

relies on auto-aim
Kenka said:
Could anyone update the OP with a guide to the best monitors around that will spare your wallet ? It's kinda missing, and I would like to select a monitor that would last several builds. Any suggestion ?
It is hard to judge monitors since it is hard to directly compare them. If you care for monitor reviews and color DEEPLY, then you can see legit reviews on color curves and such on other sites. Graphic and Video people would know if they want IPS vs. TN.

Otherwise just buy whats is cheap and is a decent brand on any given day of the week.
Sales and models come and go fairly often.
Quicksilver4648 said:
So, I am in the finalizing process of picking the pieces for my PC. I asked before but made some changes along the way. Everything should match up but I need a final round check.

Case: Cooler Master CM690 II Advance
MB: Asus P8P67 Pro
CPU: Intel i5-2500k
Thermal Paste: Arctic Cooling MX-4
CPU Cooler: Cooler Master V6 GT
GPU: GIGABYTE GV-N560OC-1GI GeForce GTX 560 Ti (Fermi)
RAM: G.SKILL Sniper 8GB (2 x 4GB)
HDD: SAMSUNG Spinpoint F3 1TB
Drive: ASUS DRW-24B1ST
PSU: CORSAIR TX750 V2 750W
Excellent.
 

sk3tch

Member
Quicksilver4648 said:
So, I am in the finalizing process of picking the pieces for my PC. I asked before but made some changes along the way. Everything should match up but I need a final round check.

Case: Cooler Master CM690 II Advance
MB: Asus P8P67 Pro
CPU: Intel i5-2500k
Thermal Paste: Arctic Cooling MX-4
CPU Cooler: Cooler Master V6 GT
GPU: GIGABYTE GV-N560OC-1GI GeForce GTX 560 Ti (Fermi)
RAM: G.SKILL Sniper 8GB (2 x 4GB)
HDD: SAMSUNG Spinpoint F3 1TB
Drive: ASUS DRW-24B1ST
PSU: CORSAIR TX750 V2 750W

The Corsair PSU is awesome...but $100. Since you're not doing SLI - you could go for this XFX/Seasonic 650W unit for $50: http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16817207002&cm_re=xfx_cag-_-17-207-002-_-Product. Either way, nice build!
 

Hazaro

relies on auto-aim
Attackthebase said:
Dual GTS 250 1GB.
Did you buy a pre-built?
B-Dex said:
THIS now or wait till April for a Asus P67 Pro B3?
Both are fine boards. If you don't want to wait you can pick that up. Just know that it doesn't have the new UEFI.
sk3tch said:
The Corsair PSU is awesome...but $100. Since you're not doing SLI - you could go for this XFX/Seasonic 650W unit for $50: http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16817207002&cm_re=xfx_cag-_-17-207-002-_-Product. Either way, nice build!
Not that much more for a better quality PSU that will have a touch more overhead if another 560 is added later. Dropping 1k on a PC, that nudge is fine.
 

Hazaro

relies on auto-aim
Attackthebase said:
Combo pack on Newegg, looking back, it wasn't the best decision, but the only lessening features on my PC are the graphic cards.
Sli has some downsides, but at least for me it has been ok so far.

If you unhappy with some issues you are having, or the frame rate, look at a 6950 or 560.
I'd suggest a 2GB 6950 or a MSI 560
 

InertiaXr

Member
I'm looking to get a mechanical keyboard to last for quite a while. Budget is probably around $100 just because that's how much most seem to cost, but I'm not adverse to paying for more quality. I'll probably lean towards not needing a numpad on it due to rare usage and them taking up space, but otherwise I'm not entirely sure what to look for. Any suggestions?
 

Weenerz

Banned
InertiaXr said:
I'm looking to get a mechanical keyboard to last for quite a while. Budget is probably around $100 just because that's how much most seem to cost, but I'm not adverse to paying for more quality. I'll probably lean towards not needing a numpad on it due to rare usage and them taking up space, but otherwise I'm not entirely sure what to look for. Any suggestions?


http://steelseries.com/us/products/keyboards/steelseries-7g


Kind of steep at $150, but I have heard nothing but glowing reviews for it. Maximum PC actually had someone step on it and the thing still worked.
 

InertiaXr

Member
Weenerz said:
http://steelseries.com/us/products/keyboards/steelseries-7g


Kind of steep at $150, but I have heard nothing but glowing reviews for it. Maximum PC actually had someone step on it and the thing still worked.

Well that was easy enough eh, lol. Is there anywhere I can try one of these out, not necessarily this model but mechanical keyboards in general? I've never seen or used one just heard great things about how much longer they last and how much easier they are to use. Best Buy maybe?
 

Weenerz

Banned
InertiaXr said:
Well that was easy enough eh, lol. Is there anywhere I can try one of these out, not necessarily this model but mechanical keyboards in general? I've never seen or used one just heard great things about how much longer they last and how much easier they are to use. Best Buy maybe?


Find someone with an old IBM computer or any old computer in general. They most likely have a mechanical keyboard. It's not new technology by any means, they have upgraded certain aspects of it though.
 

Hazaro

relies on auto-aim
InertiaXr said:
I'm looking to get a mechanical keyboard to last for quite a while. Budget is probably around $100 just because that's how much most seem to cost, but I'm not adverse to paying for more quality. I'll probably lean towards not needing a numpad on it due to rare usage and them taking up space, but otherwise I'm not entirely sure what to look for. Any suggestions?
overclock.net-mechanical-keyboard-guide
Some models

I've heard about the DAS keyboard, but can offer nothing about it.
 

Ultrabum

Member
I have a Rosewill mechanical keyboard with the super loud click-y keys. I will never go back to a regular rubber dome keyboard again. But it is loud if I'm trying to play games while the girl sleeps :(
 
Hazaro said:
Sli has some downsides, but at least for me it has been ok so far.

If you unhappy with some issues you are having, or the frame rate, look at a 6950 or 560.
I'd suggest a 2GB 6950 or a MSI 560

I'll probably get the 560. It has DX11, the reviews are glowing, and it's exactly in my price range.
Thanks for the help guys! Now, when I eventually buy DA2 (Steam sale!), it won't look horrible!
 

InertiaXr

Member
Thanks guys, I think I will go to Microcenter and see if they happen to have any mechanicals out I can test out, but otherwise I'm probably going to go with the DAS. Specifically this model, seems to have the middle ground switches between typing/games and quieter clicking noise that I want. The palm rest on that Steelseries is something I don't have any space for on my current desk.
 

ExMachina

Unconfirmed Member
Attackthebase said:
I'll probably get the 560. It has DX11, the reviews are glowing, and it's exactly in my price range.
Thanks for the help guys! Now, when I eventually buy DA2 (Steam sale!), it won't look horrible!
Just FYI - DA2 currently runs terribly on any Nvidia GPU with DX11 on, regardless of how good your card is, due to some incomplete code. Short of a major patch from Bioware addressing the issue or a fix included in new drivers, expect disappointing performance in the PC version of DA2 if you're not running an AMD card. Hopefully they do fix this by the time it goes on sale on Steam but... you never know.

http://forums.nvidia.com/index.php?showtopic=194951&st=0
 

Schlep

Member
Finished cable cleanup today. It was a pain at points to build, but very happy with the end result. :) CPU idle temps are 28-32 for those interested.

More Pics Here

IMAG0114.jpg
IMAG0115.jpg
 
ExMachina said:
Just FYI - DA2 currently runs terribly on any Nvidia GPU with DX11 on, regardless of how good your card is, due to some incomplete code. Short of a major patch from Bioware addressing the issue or a fix included in new drivers, expect disappointing performance in the PC version of DA2 if you're not running an AMD card. Hopefully they do fix this by the time it goes on sale on Steam but... you never know.

http://forums.nvidia.com/index.php?showtopic=194951&st=0

This is really depressing. On the bright side, I won't have time to play DA2 until mid-May, so if EA can stop banning players from playing their games, perhaps they'll fix the DX11 issue.

Well, at least I'll have Crysis 2. :)
 

comrade

Member
InertiaXr said:
Thanks guys, I think I will go to Microcenter and see if they happen to have any mechanicals out I can test out, but otherwise I'm probably going to go with the DAS. Specifically this model, seems to have the middle ground switches between typing/games and quieter clicking noise that I want. The palm rest on that Steelseries is something I don't have any space for on my current desk.
It's an add-on.
SteelSeries-7G-8.jpg
 

Weenerz

Banned
Doing some research on future upgrades, so I thought I'd go to the SSD section and view G.Skills offering, and their tech support is really on the ball responding to consumer reviews, that is kind of surprising.


In any case, best value for an SSD? I am looking for 120gb or higher. Also, I posted earlier regarding a recommendation for a Sandy Bridge motherboard but didn't get a response, anyone have an opinion on this
 
Schlep said:
Finished cable cleanup today. It was a pain at points to build, but very happy with the end result. :) CPU idle temps are 28-32 for those interested.

More Pics Here

IMAG0114.jpg
IMAG0115.jpg

Nice man, that build is cool as fuck. What's the name of the case?

Edit: edited in the pics, so they're on the new page.
 
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