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"I need a New PC!" 2011 Edition of SSD's for everyone! |OT|
- Thread starter Hazaro
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OG_Original Gamer
Member
JWong said:
Quad channel, I wish. Its 4 modules.
OG_Original Gamer said:
DeadRockstar said:
Thanks.
I forgot to post the specs; these are from a bit earlier in the thread.SILVERSTONE Fortress Series FT03B Black Aluminum / Steel MicroATX Mini Tower Computer Case
COOLER MASTER Silent Pro M600 RS-600-AMBA-D3 600W ATX12V V2.3 SLI Certified CrossFire Ready 80 PLUS Bronze Certified Modular Active PFC Power Supply
ASUS P8P67-M PRO Micro ATX Motherboard
Intel Core i5-2500K Sandy Bridge 3.3GHz (3.7GHz Turbo Boost) LGA 1155 95W Quad-Core Desktop Processor BX80623I52500K
CORSAIR CWCH50-1 High Performance CPU Cooler
G.SKILL Ripjaws Series 8GB (2 x 4GB) 240-Pin DDR3 SDRAM DDR3 1333 (PC3 10666) Desktop Memory Model F3-10666CL9D-8GBRL
MSI N460GTX CYCLONE 1GD5/OC GeForce GTX 460 (Fermi) 1GB 256-bit GDDR5 PCI Express 2.0 x16 HDCP Ready SLI Support Video Card
Crucial RealSSD C300 CTFDDAC064MAG-1G1 2.5" 64GB SATA III MLC Internal Solid State Drive (SSD)
SAMSUNG Spinpoint F3 HD103SJ 1TB 7200 RPM SATA 3.0Gb/s 3.5" Internal Hard Drive -Bare Drive
TP-LINK TL-WN781ND PCI Express Wireless Adapter
New upgrade incoming!
Intel Core i5-2500k
OCZ Vertex 2 120gb SSD
WD Caviar Black 1tb HDD
CORSAIR XMS3 8GB
MSI P67A-GD55
Corsair HX series 850w PSU
GIGABYTE GTX580
Opinions? I tried to go with ASUS for the mobo, but Newegg is out and I have read good things about the MSI on the hardforums.
Intel Core i5-2500k
OCZ Vertex 2 120gb SSD
WD Caviar Black 1tb HDD
CORSAIR XMS3 8GB
MSI P67A-GD55
Corsair HX series 850w PSU
GIGABYTE GTX580
Opinions? I tried to go with ASUS for the mobo, but Newegg is out and I have read good things about the MSI on the hardforums.
Quicksilver4648
Member
There might be some other (read: cheaper) boards out there that have those features, but I plan on getting an Asus P8P67 Pro and it has everything you asked for other than WiFi. You could always get a cheap Wireless N card though.Utako said:
Ecto311
Member
I have a p8p67 board and will be installing an F60 corsair ssd later. Does it matter where I plug it in as far as the SATA plugs are concerned? Can I put it in the 6gb ones even though it's a slower drive?
Any setup tips? I am going to install windows xp - bearly - just to get it going then use windows 7 so it thinks it's an upgrade and install on the drive.
Any setup tips? I am going to install windows xp - bearly - just to get it going then use windows 7 so it thinks it's an upgrade and install on the drive.
Consensus on ANTEC DF-85 case?
Unknown Soldier
Member
R2D4 said:
I've seen uglier, but yeah. Get an HAF 932 instead.
Flying_Phoenix
Banned
I just built my build but the power won't turn on for some reason.
I think one of the pints where to place the CPU the motherboard bent a little but the CPU still fit in there snug. I'm also missing the speaker wire that goes to the top left of the motherboard because it didn't come with the case.
Here are some pics so someone can help me
:
I think one of the pints where to place the CPU the motherboard bent a little but the CPU still fit in there snug. I'm also missing the speaker wire that goes to the top left of the motherboard because it didn't come with the case.
Here are some pics so someone can help me
please
DodgyGeezerFella
Member
You haven't plugged in the main bit - 24 pin ATX -
Edit - Also, it appears you plugged the CPU fan into the chassis fan bit, you want the CPU_FAN one instead And additionally put the 120mm chassis fan you have plugged into PWR_Fan into the chassis fan one
Edit 2 - Actually im a dumb ass, i notice you have another 120mm at the top, so plug that 1 into the PWR_FAN and the side 1 into CHA_FAN, but really thats up to you
Edit - Also, it appears you plugged the CPU fan into the chassis fan bit, you want the CPU_FAN one instead
And additionally put the 120mm chassis fan you have plugged into PWR_Fan into the chassis fan one Edit 2 - Actually im a dumb ass, i notice you have another 120mm at the top, so plug that 1 into the PWR_FAN and the side 1 into CHA_FAN, but really thats up to you
Flying_Phoenix
Banned
MacAttack said:
I've done it before. It's just been two years.
Ogs said:
Thanks.
If you still want something like what you were looking at initially, these two:Utako said:
Gigabyte GA-P67A-UD7
http://www.amazon.com/dp/B004G60AKO/?tag=neogaf0e-20
Asus RoG Maximus IV Extreme
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16813131700
You'd be paying for a lot of features that you may or mat not need/use. Three three or are solid, and more moderately-priced:
ASUS P8P67 Pro (or P8P67 Deluxe)
http://www.amazon.com/dp/B004QF0VD6/?tag=neogaf0e-20
MSI P67A-GD65 (or P67A-GD55)
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16813130574&cm_re=MSI_p67-_-13-130-574-_-Product
Gigabyte GA-P67A-UD4 (or GA-P67A-UD5)
http://www.microcenter.com/single_product_results.phtml?product_id=0358107
Just make sure to get a newer B3 revision. IIRC, Gigabyte's revised boards (effectively the same models, but updated) have new model numbers that reflect the change, so the older versions above are slightly different.
comrade said:
$130 - Asus RT-N56U
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16833320062&Tpk=Asus RT-N56U
http://www.smallnetbuilder.com/wire...-dual-band-gigabit-wireless-n-router-reviewed
$150-180 - Cisco Linksys E4200
http://www.amazon.com/dp/B004K1EZDS/?tag=neogaf0e-20
http://www.smallnetbuilder.com/wire...aximum-performance-wireless-n-router-reviewed
There are also some newer power line networking enabled wireless N models coming up like this:
$113 - D-Link DHP-1320 (Wireless N PowerLine Router)
http://www.amazon.com/dp/B004JXVLM0/?tag=neogaf0e-20
http://www.dlink.com/products/?pid=DHP-1320
edit: looks like you've made up your mind while i was typing
Thanks for the reply and I'm glad your two choices were my two choices. Reading the reviews it looks like the ASUS can't be beat for the cheaper price point.·feist· said:If you still want something like what you were looking at initially, these two:
Gigabyte GA-P67A-UD7
http://www.amazon.com/dp/B004G60AKO/?tag=neogaf0e-20
Asus RoG Maximus IV Extreme
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16813131700
You'd be paying for a lot of features that you may or mat not need/use. Three three or are solid, and more moderately-priced:
ASUS P8P67 Pro (or P8P67 Deluxe)
http://www.amazon.com/dp/B004QF0VD6/?tag=neogaf0e-20
MSI P67A-GD65 (or P67A-GD55)
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16813130574&cm_re=MSI_p67-_-13-130-574-_-Product
Gigabyte GA-P67A-UD4 (or GA-P67A-UD5)
http://www.microcenter.com/single_product_results.phtml?product_id=0358107
Just make sure to get a newer B3 revision. IIRC, Gigabyte's revised boards (effectively the same models, but updated) have new model numbers that reflect the change, so the older versions above are slightly different.
$130 - Asus RT-N56U
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16833320062&Tpk=Asus RT-N56U
http://www.smallnetbuilder.com/wire...-dual-band-gigabit-wireless-n-router-reviewed
$150-180 - Cisco Linksys E4200
http://www.amazon.com/dp/B004K1EZDS/?tag=neogaf0e-20
http://www.smallnetbuilder.com/wire...aximum-performance-wireless-n-router-reviewed
There are also some newer power line networking enabled wireless N models coming up like this:
$113 - D-Link DHP-1320 (Wireless N PowerLine Router)
http://www.amazon.com/dp/B004JXVLM0/?tag=neogaf0e-20
http://www.dlink.com/products/?pid=DHP-1320
edit: looks like you've made up your mind while i was typing
MikeE21286
Member
·feist· said:
$130 - Asus RT-N56U
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16833320062&Tpk=Asus RT-N56U
http://www.smallnetbuilder.com/wire...-dual-band-gigabit-wireless-n-router-reviewed
$150-180 - Cisco Linksys E4200
http://www.amazon.com/dp/B004K1EZDS/?tag=neogaf0e-20
http://www.smallnetbuilder.com/wire...aximum-performance-wireless-n-router-reviewed
There are also some newer power line networking enabled wireless N models coming up like this:
$113 - D-Link DHP-1320 (Wireless N PowerLine Router)
http://www.amazon.com/dp/B004JXVLM0/?tag=neogaf0e-20
http://www.dlink.com/products/?pid=DHP-1320
edit: looks like you've made up your mind while i was typing
are these all simultaneous dual-band?
Also for future reference make sure you're putting the ram in the right slots. My friend insisted that I put the ram into slot 1 and 3 of his new PC, but it wouldn't turn on, not really anyways. I was stumped. Turns out, it wanted slots 2 and 4 instead.Flying_Phoenix said:
Oops?
evil solrac v3.0
Member
B-Dex said:
it's plastic. the antec 1200 was (is) a lot better. go with the that or the HAF 932/HAF X.
Flying_Phoenix
Banned
Installing Windows now. Everything seems to be fine.
And holy shit is the Asus's new Bios awesome. It's perfect.
And holy shit is the Asus's new Bios awesome. It's perfect.
Flying_Phoenix
Banned
I installed Windows and almost everything was working fine.
See whenever I rebooted my computer the BIOS claimed that I had no hard-drive. I had to go into the BIOS and force boot from the hard-drive. After that it would work perfectly. However there was another small problem. Only one of the RAM was recognized (turns out one of them weren't pushed full in). So I turned off my PC, moved the SSD to the SATA 1 port, and tightned one of the RAM sticks.
And all of a sudden I can't get video signal on my TV. What's worse is that my computer restarts after ten to fiftheen seconds, however after that it stays on, but I still get no video signal.
Can anybody help me solve this problem please?
EDIT - It's also worth noting that I updated my drivers on Windows right prior to this.
See whenever I rebooted my computer the BIOS claimed that I had no hard-drive. I had to go into the BIOS and force boot from the hard-drive. After that it would work perfectly. However there was another small problem. Only one of the RAM was recognized (turns out one of them weren't pushed full in). So I turned off my PC, moved the SSD to the SATA 1 port, and tightned one of the RAM sticks.
And all of a sudden I can't get video signal on my TV. What's worse is that my computer restarts after ten to fiftheen seconds, however after that it stays on, but I still get no video signal.
Can anybody help me solve this problem please?
EDIT - It's also worth noting that I updated my drivers on Windows right prior to this.
Okay guys, any advice about this setup? I still don't know anything about pin compatability between the parts like the RAM sticks, GPU, CPU and mobo. >_<. But other than that, this's what I will be buying basically:
You think I am overdoing anything? Should I get a 570 over the 580? How about an i5 instead of the i7? Is a 950w PSU enough? I wanted a 1000w PSU.
This is mainly for gaming and I want it to last me around 4 years or so (that is until high-end games become too laggy on mid settings on this rig just like how my trusty 8800 GTX lasted me over 4 years. )
Newegg suprisingly has a very weak monitor selection. I'll buy that from somewhere else. Other than the monitor, everything else should be there, right?
You think I am overdoing anything? Should I get a 570 over the 580? How about an i5 instead of the i7? Is a 950w PSU enough? I wanted a 1000w PSU.
This is mainly for gaming and I want it to last me around 4 years or so (that is until high-end games become too laggy on mid settings on this rig just like how my trusty 8800 GTX lasted me over 4 years.
)Newegg suprisingly has a very weak monitor selection. I'll buy that from somewhere else. Other than the monitor, everything else should be there, right?
Flying_Phoenix
Banned
Schlep said:
I did but it didn't work.
I had blue with blue and did black with black and both to the first side.
Or is there another combination I must do?
EDIT - This pick is old. That 24 pin is connected.
deathberry
Neo Member
Anyone holding of for the GTX 590, the wait will be worth it. Two things I can say for now:
- It's as silent as a GTX 580, or maybe even more coz it has a huge ass fan in the middle.
- Not as fast as HD 6990.
- Bonus(!!): Preliminary runs of 3DMark 11/Vantage show performance more than GTX 560 Ti in SLI, so perhaps they have two GTX 570. Sadly I don't have GTX 570 SLI figures for comparison.
No idea about pricing yet, but if it costs more than $699 then it'll fail to the HD 6990. I'm thinking $599.
- It's as silent as a GTX 580, or maybe even more coz it has a huge ass fan in the middle.
- Not as fast as HD 6990.
- Bonus(!!): Preliminary runs of 3DMark 11/Vantage show performance more than GTX 560 Ti in SLI, so perhaps they have two GTX 570. Sadly I don't have GTX 570 SLI figures for comparison.
No idea about pricing yet, but if it costs more than $699 then it'll fail to the HD 6990. I'm thinking $599.
The combination is fine. They should be in the blue slots according to Asus. I was messing around with cabling and a couple tests earlier in the day and ran into no video when I had tightened a cord too much, causing one of the power connectors to come loose on the vid card.Flying_Phoenix said:
I remember from a previous build the RAM not being pushed all the way in and getting the symptoms you're talking about (turns on, no video, turns off, turns back on). In that case, the latch had shut and everything, but it wasn't quite in. Taking the sticks out and putting them back in fixed the issue.
After those, I'm not sure where you'd go next.
Edit: another thought. If your ATX power cable is split, you might want to make sure that extra 4-6 pin (can't remember the number) section of it didn't come loose.
Flying_Phoenix
Banned
Put both RAM in blue...nothing changed. Took out the CMOS battery...nothing changed.
RiverBed said:Okay guys, any advice about this setup? I still don't know anything about pin compatability between the parts like the RAM sticks, GPU, CPU and mobo. >_<. But other than that, this's what I will be buying basically:
You think I am overdoing anything? Should I get a 570 over the 580? How about an i5 instead of the i7? Is a 950w PSU enough? I wanted a 1000w PSU.
This is mainly for gaming and I want it to last me around 4 years or so (that is until high-end games become too laggy on mid settings on this rig just like how my trusty 8800 GTX lasted me over 4 years.
Newegg suprisingly has a very weak monitor selection. I'll buy that from somewhere else. Other than the monitor, everything else should be there, right?
That Processor will not work with that Motherboard. The Mobo is socket lga1366 and the processor is lga1155. You need a sandy bridge motherboard for that proc. When you search for a motherboard search by socket lga 1155.
- Nothing has onboard wifiUtako said:
- Asus p8p67 has onboard Bluetooth
- I think all 1155 boards have USB 3.0 rear ports.
- all have optical out for 5.1, but for movies only. For games you need dolbly digital live. Someone a page back said that a gigabyte UD4 supported that. Or buy a $25 xonar DG soundcard
Need a 1155 B3 motherboard.RiverBed said:Okay guys, any advice about this setup? I still don't know anything about pin compatability between the parts like the RAM sticks, GPU, CPU and mobo. >_<. But other than that, this's what I will be buying basically:
You think I am overdoing anything? Should I get a 570 over the 580? How about an i5 instead of the i7? Is a 950w PSU enough? I wanted a 1000w PSU.
This is mainly for gaming and I want it to last me around 4 years or so (that is until high-end games become too laggy on mid settings on this rig just like how my trusty 8800 GTX lasted me over 4 years.
Newegg suprisingly has a very weak monitor selection. I'll buy that from somewhere else. Other than the monitor, everything else should be there, right?
I'd also look at the cases in the OP. Rosewill also has a similar case to what you linked.
I'd be hesitant to buy a Hitachi 3TB drive right now. Very hesitant in fact. F3 1TB or WD 2TB for storage.
I'd swap the GPU for something with a better cooler like: http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16814121429
Get a 2600K with a UD4 or P8P67 PRO. Get some G.Skill or Corsair DDR3 that is 1.5V with low heatspreaders (like the sniper series).
Add a heatsink like a CM 212+, get a Seasonic or Corsair 850W V2. If you want fans get some Scythe Kama's or Noctua fans.
...and get some Taido Yoon or Verbatim DVD-R for your DVD's
reptilescorpio
Member
Alright I will finally post asking some advice on a build after trying to take in as much as possible these last few years lurking. I'm currently running on a 6 year old rig that has had bits and pieces replaced over the years. I plan on dumping the whole thing (replacing the 460 with the 9800GTX+ it replaced) on my parents so I don't have to hear from them every week about problems. Currently Q6600, 4 gig RAM, 460 with slight OC, 700Gb HDD space, 1Tb External, crappy PSU and crappy 6 year old case.
Remembering I am Australian here is the build I have been looking at for some time;
i5 2500K $269 - Planning on 4.0 overclock with stock fan
ASUS P8P67-M PRO Motherboard B3 $189 - Any benefit to going with the more expensive PRO?
8Gig (2x4Gig) G.Skill Ripjaws $139 - Seems like the sweet spot for RAM
Samsung F4 2TB $105 - More than enough storage
Future SSD when they release
Corsair TX-750 $149 - Unsure if this is the v2 model, couldn't find any information about a release in Australia but I emailed to find out. This is for if I go SLI with my 460 in a year or so
CM 690 II Advanced $129 - Looks sexy and suitable for SSD/SLI
ASUS Xonar DG $39 - Still have no idea about audio, so many conflicting opinions
I can get a few things cheaper elsewhere (I live in Geelong) but this was easier to keep track of.
A huge part of my upgrade is for the audio. I have a 6 month old son and the computer is in the living area so I have to game using headphones. I would love a solution for PC/PS3/360 like the Turtle Beach X41 but even that will require DDL apparently. So what I am asking is with the setup above what is the best way for me to have a great gameplay experience with headphones on my PC? Will the DG allow me to plug in headphones and get surround sound instantly or should I get the DX? Is there a multipurpose solution for all gaming devices, possibly wireless and not having to change everything everytime I move from the 360 to the PC? Would a different motherboard be a cheaper solution?
Also I currently use a Logitech X-530 5.1 setup (when no-one is home). How does that factor into the headphone/soundcard situation? This seems like it will be harder than putting the damn thing together. Also I'm running Win 7 64 which was through upgrade from XP but I have no idea where my old XP disc would be. When doing a clean install on SSD will I need to buy a brand new full copy of Win 7?
Remembering I am Australian here is the build I have been looking at for some time;
i5 2500K $269 - Planning on 4.0 overclock with stock fan
ASUS P8P67-M PRO Motherboard B3 $189 - Any benefit to going with the more expensive PRO?
8Gig (2x4Gig) G.Skill Ripjaws $139 - Seems like the sweet spot for RAM
Samsung F4 2TB $105 - More than enough storage
Future SSD when they release
Corsair TX-750 $149 - Unsure if this is the v2 model, couldn't find any information about a release in Australia but I emailed to find out. This is for if I go SLI with my 460 in a year or so
CM 690 II Advanced $129 - Looks sexy and suitable for SSD/SLI
ASUS Xonar DG $39 - Still have no idea about audio, so many conflicting opinions
I can get a few things cheaper elsewhere (I live in Geelong) but this was easier to keep track of.
A huge part of my upgrade is for the audio. I have a 6 month old son and the computer is in the living area so I have to game using headphones. I would love a solution for PC/PS3/360 like the Turtle Beach X41 but even that will require DDL apparently. So what I am asking is with the setup above what is the best way for me to have a great gameplay experience with headphones on my PC? Will the DG allow me to plug in headphones and get surround sound instantly or should I get the DX? Is there a multipurpose solution for all gaming devices, possibly wireless and not having to change everything everytime I move from the 360 to the PC? Would a different motherboard be a cheaper solution?
Also I currently use a Logitech X-530 5.1 setup (when no-one is home). How does that factor into the headphone/soundcard situation? This seems like it will be harder than putting the damn thing together. Also I'm running Win 7 64 which was through upgrade from XP but I have no idea where my old XP disc would be. When doing a clean install on SSD will I need to buy a brand new full copy of Win 7?
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