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[TheExodu5]

That would be Nvidia because of CUDA, but I don't really know how much of a advantage you get using Nvidia gaming GPUs instead of ATIs. All I know is that ProE and 3D Studio Max are fluid as hell with my i5-760 and gtx 460.

Anyway guys I got an IPS231P, that is a 23" LG IPS-LED backlit monitor. Previously I owned a 17" CRT with 1280x1024@60Hz resolution so you can imagine the difference. No flickering anymore, the colors are great (even though I have to turn brightness as low as it can get) and everything is so sharp.

However I get some BLB and since this is my first TFT monitor I'm wondering if this amount of BLB is par for course or if I should exchange it?

I just saw that this monitor was released in 2010, but are the 2011 ones so much better? I was thinking of exchanging it for a Dell U2311 or an LG IPS236V.

Some monitors are better, some aren't. If you want to try to avoid this, then definitely don't go LED. LED is a marketing gimmick, and all it does for monitors is make them thinner, while sacrificing picture quality. Thanks to marketing, people are under the impression LED is actually a different technology than LCD altogether.

Personally, I use a PVA panel Sony HDTV, and it has zero backlight bleed.

Looking up that Dell online, it seems like it's possible you run into backlight bleed issues:

http://en.community.dell.com/support-forums/peripherals/f/3529/p/19349205/19771076.aspx

As for the LG:

http://hardforum.com/showthread.php?t=1594369

1) Slight backlight bleed on lower left of screen, shouldn't be a huge issue since the task bar covers it up. But if watching a movie or playing a game, it would be noticed. That is the only place I see any problems.

 

[TheExodu5]

The 2333T uses a PVA panel so it has a fair amount of motion blur with gaming, I have mine sitting next to a PX2370 TN panel (which makes it even more obvious) I'm running both monitors with a GTX 480 via DVI cables, the 2333T does have a nice picture and fairly deep black levels but just thought I'd mention the blur.

That's interesting to note. I didn't know they made such small PVA displays anymore. While they do have more ghosting for gaming (though no more than an IPS panel), the deep blacks make them look amazing compared to most other monitors.

I would think it would look really good next to the PX2370. I bought two of those monitors at one point, and they had some of the worst black levels I had ever seen on a PC monitor.

 

[Omiee]

Try a reformat, then check the CCC again.

what do the switches next to where you put the crossfire bridge do?
because i switched the first card to number 1 and the other i switched to number 2.
and what do you mean by format, install windows all over again or what?

 

[bigace33]

Ok I have an HP Desktop computer with an AMD Phenom II X4 945 Processor. 8 GB of ram(upgradeable to 16 GB) 1 TB HDD, ATI Radeon 5450 512 mb graphics card.

My question is, I want to do a light upgrade to my graphics card and most likely my power source. I can't seem to locate what the wattage of my power source is. This rig is playing games from fine to ok right now so I'm pretty satisfied, but I would like to run games the way they were meant to be run on PC. What parts would you guys recommend to upgrade this rig? Something that's not very hard on my wallet

 

[comrade]

what do the switches next to where you put the crossfire bridge do?
because i switched the first card to number 1 and the other i switched to number 2.
and what do you mean by format, install windows all over again or what?

That's the BIOS switch. You want both on #1. Reading the manual would tell you that.

 

[TheExodu5]

Ok I have an HP Desktop computer with an AMD Phenom II X4 945 Processor. 8 GB of ram(upgradeable to 16 GB) 1 TB HDD, ATI Radeon 5450 512 mb graphics card.

My question is, I want to do a light upgrade to my graphics card and most likely my power source. I can't seem to locate what the wattage of my power source is. This rig is playing games from fine to ok right now so I'm pretty satisfied, but I would like to run games the way they were meant to be run on PC. What parts would you guys recommend to upgrade this rig? Something that's not very hard on my wallet

You'd need to look inside the case. There should be a label on the power supply that tells you the wattage and amperage on each rail. We'd need to make sure it's a standard ATX power supply (probably is), and then you could replace it. You could get the 520W Seasonic PSU in the OP for $75, and a Radeon 6850 for around $160. That would be a pretty marked upgrade.

Let us know what you're willing to spend, and we can adjust it from there.

 

[Omiee]

That's the BIOS switch. You want both on #1. Reading the manual would tell you that.

what happens if you put one on #2

i put it back on #1 both of them. switched the cables again and no luck.
im going to see if i can reinstall windows 7 and see what happens, but would i lose all of my files if i reinstall windows 7?

 

[Kenka]

Oh my god, this looks like what you may call "hardcore" :

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=vuLEAhSNCGM&feature=related

4-way SLI GTX 580. Holee sheet.

 

[InertiaXr]

Oh my god, this looks like what you may call "hardcore" :

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=vuLEAhSNCGM&feature=related

4-way SLI GTX 580. Holee sheet.

How do these stay cool enough when there is no space between each card?

 

[Manp]

Oh my god, this looks like what you may call "hardcore" :

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=vuLEAhSNCGM&feature=related

4-way SLI GTX 580. Holee sheet.

dude must be deaf by now

 

[pestul]

Oh my god, this looks like what you may call "hardcore" :

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=vuLEAhSNCGM&feature=related

4-way SLI GTX 580. Holee sheet.

What a waste with the mediocre scaling/memory limitations. :S

Good for a 3D setup though.

 

[TheExodu5]

Some people out there are simply hardware enthusiasts and care little about gaming. Tweaking and benchmarking is their fun.

 

[Ecto311]

Looking for some advice again. I added another graphics card to a computer - gtx 460 and a gt240 - both of them are showing up to windows 7 64bit.

I want the gt240 to output to a 1080p TV. It is connected with HDMI to the TV. But neither the computer or the TV are doing anything to show they are working together. The HDMI port on the TV works and it did work on the card.

Are there some settings I am missing or specific drivers to run both at the same time?

 

[TheExodu5]

You can't run two display adapters (video cards) at the same time, as far as I'm aware. If you want two cards working as a single display adapter, then you need to run identical cards in SLI.

 

[Corky]

What a waste with the mediocre scaling/memory limitations. :S

Good for a 3D setup though.

Tell me about it, I don't think there's any cpu out there that can give you a difference in gaming between 3 to 4 580s, heck I'll go out on a limb and say even trisli 580s will be hitting cpulimitations regardless.

edit : or what exodus said

 

[Fixed2BeBroken]

Ok...this is my final build....based on the recommendations in this thread. thanks.

ASUS DRW-24B1ST/BLK/B/AS Black SATA 24X DVD Burner - Bulk - OEM

RAIDMAX SMILODON ATX-612WB Black 1.0mm SECC Steel ATX Mid Tower Foldout MB Computer Case

MSI N560GTX-TI Twin Frozr II/OC GeForce GTX 560 Ti (Fermi) 1GB 256-bit GDDR5 PCI Express 2.0 x16 HDCP Ready SLI Support Video

Antec EarthWatts EA650 650W Continuous Power ATX12V Ver.2.2 / EPS12V version 2.91 SLI Certified CrossFire Ready 80 PLUS Certified

CORSAIR Vengeance 8GB (2 x 4GB) 240-Pin DDR3 SDRAM DDR3 1600 (PC3 12800) Desktop Memory Model CMZ8GX3M2A1600C9

Intel Core i5-2500 Sandy Bridge 3.3GHz (3.7GHz Turbo Boost) LGA 1155 95W Quad-Core Desktop Processor BX80623I52500

Microsoft Windows 7 Home Premium 64-bit 1-Pack for System Builders - OEM

COOLER MASTER Hyper 212 Plus RR-B10-212P-G1 "Heatpipe Direct Contact" Long Life Sleeve 120mm CPU Cooler Compatible Intel ...

ASUS P8P67 ATX P67 LGA1155 DDR3 2PCI-E16 2PCI-E1 3PCI USB3.0 Sandy Bridge B3 Motherboard

Seagate Barracuda 7200.12 1TB SATA2 3.5IN 8.5MS 7200RPM 32MB Hard Drive OEM *3YR MFR Warranty*

Seagate Barracuda XT 7200.12 2TB SATA 6.0GB/S 3.5IN 8.5MS 64MB Hard Drive OEM

Is it good to go?

total is about 1275.

 

[TheExodu5]

Tell me about it, I don't think there's any cpu out there that can give you a difference between 3 to 4 580s, heck I'll go out on a limb and say even trisli 580s will be hitting cpulimitations regardless.

Not true. You could run triple 1600p monitors and run into a GPU bottleneck very easily.

Furthermore, he's likely just benchmarking with this thing, which means he won't be hitting CPU limitations regardless of his display.

 

[Corky]

Not true. You could run triple 1600p monitors and run into a GPU bottleneck very easily.

Furthermore, he's likely just benchmarking with this thing, which means he won't be hitting CPU limitations regardless of his display.

well didn't see a multidisplay setup in that video hence my statement. Also I specifically mentioned gaming not benchs, in my edit.

 

[eznark]

Got about 1800 to spend on the rig I am building next month. Starting to gather parts lists. So excite.

 

[TheExodu5]

Got about 1800 to spend on the rig I am building next month. Starting to gather parts lists. So excite.

You can build a damned nice system for that kind of money. You need a monitor or peripherals? Or is that all going towards the tower?

 

[Ecto311]

You can't run two display adapters (video cards) at the same time, as far as I'm aware. If you want two cards working as a single display adapter, then you need to run identical cards in SLI.

I want the GTX460 running 2 monitors and the gt240 running the TV - they are different display adapters when doing that right? The GTX460 has 3 outputs but I was told that would not work for the setup I am going after.

 

[Circle Jerk]

Budget: about $1k, Canada
Main Use: Gaming, general usage (Word, Web)
Monitor Resolution: 1680 x 1050, but I'm willing to play on lower resolutions
List SPECIFIC games that you MUST be able to play: BF3, Witcher 2, ME3, basically anything coming out right now on pc!
Are reusing any parts?: No
When will you build?: Probably within the next month or two
Will you be overclocking?: Nope

1 x Intel Core i5 2400 Quad Core Processor LGA1155 3.1GHZ Sandy Bridge 6MB
1 x Please Use The Heatsink Included with My CPU -NOT Available with OEM Processors
1 x Gigabyte H67MA-D2H-B3 mATX LGA1155 H67 DDR3 2PCI-E16 2PCI-E1 SATA3 USB3.0 HDMI Motherboard
1 x G.SKILL F3-12800CL9D-4GBRL Ripjaws PC3-12800 4GB 2X2GB DDR3-1600 CL9-9-9-24 Core i5 1.5V Memory Kit
1 x Gigabyte GeForce GTX 560 Fermi 950MHZ 1GB 4.58GHZ GDDR5 2XDVI Mini HDMI DIRECTX11 PCI *IR-$10.86*
1 x NZXT Gamma ATX Mid Tower Case Black 4X5.25 7X3.5 Front USB Audio eSATA with 120MM Rear Fan No PSU
1 x Seasonic S12II 520W EPS12V 20/24PIN ATX Power Supply Active PFC 80+ Bronze 6+8PIN PCI-E W/ 120MM Fan
1 x Microsoft Windows 7 Home Premium Edition 64BIT DVD OEM
1 x Western Digital WD Caviar Blue 1TB SATA 6GB/S 7200RPM 32MB Cache 3.5IN Hard Drive OEM
1 x LG GH22NS50 Black 22X SATA DVD Writer OEM

Looking to join the winning team, and this is what I have so far. I'm going to be ordering from NCIX and using their assembly because I have no desire to put a PC together. This comes to about $950. Is there anything I should change or add? I've been out of the loop for PC parts for a long time now so I'm mostly curious about the CPU. Thanks guys!

 

[Weenerz]

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=xZPG0KON3pU&feature=related


Quad core GTX580s, Liquid cooled, and I believe dual xeon 5680s. I want one, but it's probably only $20,000 lol.

 

[opticalmace]

Budget: about $1k, Canada
Main Use: Gaming, general usage (Word, Web)
Monitor Resolution: 1680 x 1050, but I'm willing to play on lower resolutions
List SPECIFIC games that you MUST be able to play: BF3, Witcher 2, ME3, basically anything coming out right now on pc!
Are reusing any parts?: No
When will you build?: Probably within the next month or two
Will you be overclocking?: Nope

1 x Intel Core i5 2400 Quad Core Processor LGA1155 3.1GHZ Sandy Bridge 6MB
1 x Please Use The Heatsink Included with My CPU -NOT Available with OEM Processors
1 x Gigabyte H67MA-D2H-B3 mATX LGA1155 H67 DDR3 2PCI-E16 2PCI-E1 SATA3 USB3.0 HDMI Motherboard
1 x G.SKILL F3-12800CL9D-4GBRL Ripjaws PC3-12800 4GB 2X2GB DDR3-1600 CL9-9-9-24 Core i5 1.5V Memory Kit
1 x Gigabyte GeForce GTX 560 Fermi 950MHZ 1GB 4.58GHZ GDDR5 2XDVI Mini HDMI DIRECTX11 PCI *IR-$10.86*
1 x NZXT Gamma ATX Mid Tower Case Black 4X5.25 7X3.5 Front USB Audio eSATA with 120MM Rear Fan No PSU
1 x Seasonic S12II 520W EPS12V 20/24PIN ATX Power Supply Active PFC 80+ Bronze 6+8PIN PCI-E W/ 120MM Fan
1 x Microsoft Windows 7 Home Premium Edition 64BIT DVD OEM
1 x Western Digital WD Caviar Blue 1TB SATA 6GB/S 7200RPM 32MB Cache 3.5IN Hard Drive OEM
1 x LG GH22NS50 Black 22X SATA DVD Writer OEM

Looking to join the winning team, and this is what I have so far. I'm going to be ordering from NCIX and using their assembly because I have no desire to put a PC together. This comes to about $950. Is there anything I should change or add? I've been out of the loop for PC parts for a long time now so I'm mostly curious about the CPU. Thanks guys!

That motherboard seems to be micro ATX, not standard ATX. I'm not super familiar with mobo sizes but I assume you want a normal full size board since you're using an ATX case. Also how much is the case? I might personally go for something a little nicer myself. But you should probably wait for more input.

 

[eznark]

You can build a damned nice system for that kind of money. You need a monitor or peripherals? Or is that all going towards the tower?

Well, it's a pretty soft budget to be honest, so if I go over I go over. I'd like a new monitor with a true 1080 resolution and I've been eyeing a Rat 7 for months, so those will probably on top of the 1800. I don't need a hard drive or a sound card though, so that save a few dollars. Probably going to cannibalize the optical drive as well. I'm thinking of using a few of the parts from the latest tested build and upgrading the CPU and memory. Might also look to a different gpu, that thing was massive and I have only ever used nvidia. Switching is not a thrilling thought for some reason.

 

[aznpxdd]

Phew, almost done putting this together...

Cable management in the back is gonna be a BITCH.

 

[Fixed2BeBroken]

Ok...this is my final build....based on the recommendations in this thread. thanks.

ASUS DRW-24B1ST/BLK/B/AS Black SATA 24X DVD Burner - Bulk - OEM

RAIDMAX SMILODON ATX-612WB Black 1.0mm SECC Steel ATX Mid Tower Foldout MB Computer Case

MSI N560GTX-TI Twin Frozr II/OC GeForce GTX 560 Ti (Fermi) 1GB 256-bit GDDR5 PCI Express 2.0 x16 HDCP Ready SLI Support Video

Antec EarthWatts EA650 650W Continuous Power ATX12V Ver.2.2 / EPS12V version 2.91 SLI Certified CrossFire Ready 80 PLUS Certified

CORSAIR Vengeance 8GB (2 x 4GB) 240-Pin DDR3 SDRAM DDR3 1600 (PC3 12800) Desktop Memory Model CMZ8GX3M2A1600C9

Intel Core i5-2500 Sandy Bridge 3.3GHz (3.7GHz Turbo Boost) LGA 1155 95W Quad-Core Desktop Processor BX80623I52500

Microsoft Windows 7 Home Premium 64-bit 1-Pack for System Builders - OEM

COOLER MASTER Hyper 212 Plus RR-B10-212P-G1 "Heatpipe Direct Contact" Long Life Sleeve 120mm CPU Cooler Compatible Intel ...

ASUS P8P67 ATX P67 LGA1155 DDR3 2PCI-E16 2PCI-E1 3PCI USB3.0 Sandy Bridge B3 Motherboard

Seagate Barracuda 7200.12 1TB SATA2 3.5IN 8.5MS 7200RPM 32MB Hard Drive OEM *3YR MFR Warranty*

Seagate Barracuda XT 7200.12 2TB SATA 6.0GB/S 3.5IN 8.5MS 64MB Hard Drive OEM

Is it good to go?

total is about 1275.

anyone?

 

[Weenerz]

Phew, almost done putting this together...

Cable management in the back is gonna be a BITCH.

600t? I opened up mine last night to install another 4gb of ram, and do some general dusting and the filters on the 600t kept it really clean on the inside of the case, I was very impressed.

anyone?

Great build, if you can afford it, it should be fine. I would think about possibly subbing in that second HDD for a SSD though.

 

[eznark]

What's the GAF case dujour these days?

 

[Aselith]

anyone?

Looks good but if you're already spending that kind of money, why not spend an extra hundred and get the 2600k?

 

[mambadragon]

Well, it's a pretty soft budget to be honest, so if I go over I go over. I'd like a new monitor with a true 1080 resolution and I've been eyeing a Rat 7 for months, so those will probably on top of the 1800. I don't need a hard drive or a sound card though, so that save a few dollars. Probably going to cannibalize the optical drive as well. I'm thinking of using a few of the parts from the latest tested build and upgrading the CPU and memory. Might also look to a different gpu, that thing was massive and I have only ever used nvidia. Switching is not a thrilling thought for some reason.

Switching? Buy the best bang for the buck and don't worry if it's Nvidia, Ati, 3Dfx, or Matrox. The beauty of an open platform.

Edit: as for midtowers (I don't like full). I covet the Fanatec R3, but also might splurge on the Corsair 650d (though theres apparently theres a defect in the first batch that has buzzing fans). I see the Coolermaster HAF series recommended around here too, but I personally don't like the look.

 

[Weenerz]

What's the GAF case dujour these days?

I can't vouch for the Corsair 600t enough, it's such a great case. It's a little big compared to other mid-tower cases, but it's worth that extra side. Compeltely tool-less design, the sides of the case are "bubbled" out a little further for wire management.

Looks good but if you're already spending that kind of money, why not spend an extra hundred and get the 2600k?

If they just want this for a gaming rig (my guess), the 2600k is a waste since games really don't use hyperthreading. You get 95% of the performance for the 2600k for $100 less.

 

[eznark]

Switching? Buy the best bang for the buck and don't worry if it's Nvidia, Ati, 3Dfx, or Matrox. The beauty of an open platform.

I know, but it's a mental thing!

 

[Fixed2BeBroken]

Looks good but if you're already spending that kind of money, why not spend an extra hundred and get the 2600k?

because in this thread they said dont get it because im not planning on overclocking.

is the SSD really worth it?

 

[Weenerz]

because in this thread they said dont get it because im not planning on overclocking.

is the SSD really worth it?

Depends on the size, if you get a 120gb, you can install the OS and a game or two to it and watch your load times disappear. I've heard great things about SSDs that use sandforce.

 

[Fixed2BeBroken]

Depends on the size, if you get a 120gb, you can install the OS and a game or two to it and watch your load times disappear. I've heard great things about SSDs that use sandforce.

well i plan to use alot of audio programs on this comp. so if i had the audio program on the SSD but all the audio files on my other HD. it wouldn't really make a difference having an SSD in the first place right?

 

[eznark]

I'm waiting another year for ssd. Load times I can deal with, but I think were getting to a value tipping point on ssds and the prices will start to plummet in a year or so. I'd rather spend that money elsewhere, personally.

 

[Weenerz]

well i plan to use alot of audio programs on this comp. so if i had the audio program on the SSD but all the audio files on my other HD. it wouldn't really make a difference having an SSD in the first place right?

Most likely not. Didn't realize you were doing more than gaming, that 2600k might be beneficial after all, assuming the program you are using uses Hyper Threading.

 

[Funky Papa]

SSDs are the shit. Once you go flash, you never go back. It really is the only possible upgrade that provides that snappy feeling that you couldn't possibly get by renewing your CPU or RAM. With that said, make sure that buy a good one; crap SSDs are actually worse than any modern HDD.

I have my money ready for a new Vertex 3, but now I think that I may go for a Vertex 2 if prices go *really* low at release.

 

[·feist·]

Ok...this is my final build....based on the recommendations in this thread. thanks.

ASUS DRW-24B1ST/BLK/B/AS Black SATA 24X DVD Burner - Bulk - OEM

RAIDMAX SMILODON ATX-612WB Black 1.0mm SECC Steel ATX Mid Tower Foldout MB Computer Case

MSI N560GTX-TI Twin Frozr II/OC GeForce GTX 560 Ti (Fermi) 1GB 256-bit GDDR5 PCI Express 2.0 x16 HDCP Ready SLI Support Video

Antec EarthWatts EA650 650W Continuous Power ATX12V Ver.2.2 / EPS12V version 2.91 SLI Certified CrossFire Ready 80 PLUS Certified

CORSAIR Vengeance 8GB (2 x 4GB) 240-Pin DDR3 SDRAM DDR3 1600 (PC3 12800) Desktop Memory Model CMZ8GX3M2A1600C9

Intel Core i5-2500 Sandy Bridge 3.3GHz (3.7GHz Turbo Boost) LGA 1155 95W Quad-Core Desktop Processor BX80623I52500

Microsoft Windows 7 Home Premium 64-bit 1-Pack for System Builders - OEM

COOLER MASTER Hyper 212 Plus RR-B10-212P-G1 "Heatpipe Direct Contact" Long Life Sleeve 120mm CPU Cooler Compatible Intel ...

ASUS P8P67 ATX P67 LGA1155 DDR3 2PCI-E16 2PCI-E1 3PCI USB3.0 Sandy Bridge B3 Motherboard

Seagate Barracuda 7200.12 1TB SATA2 3.5IN 8.5MS 7200RPM 32MB Hard Drive OEM *3YR MFR Warranty*

Seagate Barracuda XT 7200.12 2TB SATA 6.0GB/S 3.5IN 8.5MS 64MB Hard Drive OEM

Is it good to go?

total is about 1275.

If you are in fact in the US, and not Canada, you should consider looking at Newegg/Amazon/etc for a few of those parts, as they'll cost less than going the NCIX US route.

I'd switch the PSU for one of these, all of which are better and cost a bit less or a bit more:
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Produ...1021&cm_re=650w_bronze-_-17-371-021-_-Product
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Produ...7002&cm_re=650w_bronze-_-17-207-002-_-Product
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Produ...7007&cm_re=650w_bronze-_-17-207-007-_-Product

Since you don't actually need 650w, you can save money by opting for a 500w, though it's nice to have the added headroom down the line.

Look into the Seagate XT issues. If they don't affect that model, then it costs less one Newegg.
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16822148506&Tpk=Barracuda XT 2tb

I'd still try to put my money towards an SSD if possible, but if you are sticking with two HDDs try one of these for OS...
http://www.microcenter.com/single_product_results.phtml?product_id=0340804
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Produ...533&cm_re=wd_black_1tb-_-22-136-533-_-Product
http://www.amazon.com/dp/B0046REG62/?tag=neogaf0e-20

...and this for storage:
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Produ...152245&cm_re=samsun_f4-_-22-152-245-_-Product

Between those, you can get better quality, performance, warranty, and spend less.

While having a easily accessible motherboard tray is nice, I would,'t buy that Raidmax. It's a very old case design which has old case design shortcomings. Take a look at the OP for some case ideas, and see what stands out to you. We can help you tweak from there if need be.


Lastly, most of us try to help others save money where ever possible, hence the recommendation to buy a non-K CPU if you don't plan on overclocking. Even so, I feel you should consider going with a 2500K over a 2500. For the difference of only $15, you give yourself a great deal more flexibility down the road. In a 1-3 years or so, if you feel like you could use some more performance for productivity, gaming, and other tasks, you simply overclock your CPU, instead of needing to buy a new one (and possibly other components to go along with a new CPU). It's unfortunate that Intel has gone down this path, but why limit yourself for $10-15, when your wants and needs may require a faster CPU down the line? This applies to a lot of users.

 

[Kenka]

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=xZPG0KON3pU&feature=related


Quad core GTX580s, Liquid cooled, and I believe dual xeon 5680s. I want one, but it's probably only $20,000 lol.

I subscribed. You know you're onto something when you run Crysis Warhead @ 6080 x 1600 with an average of 56 FPS. That is beyond Cthulhu-esque proportions.

 

[Fixed2BeBroken]

If you are in fact in the US, and not Canada, you should consider looking at Newegg/Amazon/etc for a few of those parts, as they'll cost less than going the NCIX US route.

I'd switch the PSU for one of these, all of which are better and cost a bit less or a bit more:
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Produ...1021&cm_re=650w_bronze-_-17-371-021-_-Product
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Produ...7002&cm_re=650w_bronze-_-17-207-002-_-Product
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Produ...7007&cm_re=650w_bronze-_-17-207-007-_-Product

Since you don't actually need 650w, you can save money by opting for a 500w, though it's nice to have the added headroom down the line.

Look into the Seagate XT issues. If they don't affect that model, then it costs less one Newegg.
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16822148506&Tpk=Barracuda XT 2tb

I'd still try to put my money towards an SSD if possible, but if you are sticking with two HDDs try one of these for OS...
http://www.microcenter.com/single_product_results.phtml?product_id=0340804
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Produ...533&cm_re=wd_black_1tb-_-22-136-533-_-Product
http://www.amazon.com/dp/B0046REG62/?tag=neogaf0e-20

...and this for storage:
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Produ...152245&cm_re=samsun_f4-_-22-152-245-_-Product

Between those, you can get better quality, performance, warranty, and spend less.

While having a easily accessible motherboard tray is nice, I would,'t buy that Raidmax. It's a very old case design which has old case design shortcomings. Take a look at the OP for some case ideas, and see what stands out to you. We can help you tweak from there if need be.


Lastly, most of us try to help others save money where ever possible, hence the recommendation to buy a non-K CPU if you don't plan on overclocking. Even so, I feel you should consider going with a 2500K over a 2500. For the difference of only $15, you give yourself a great deal more flexibility down the road. In a 1-3 years or so, if you feel like you could use some more performance for productivity, gaming, and other tasks, you simply overclock your CPU, instead of needing to buy a new one (and possibly other components to go along with a new CPU). It's unfortunate that Intel has gone down this path, but why limit yourself for $10-15, when your wants and needs may require a faster CPU down the line? This applies to a lot of users.

thanks, this is super helpful...I am gonna tweak my stuff slightly with what u posted and post it later tonight. with that said....the psu im buying is cheaper than all the ones you posted.

 

[IonicSnake]

I'm having a hard time deciding if I should upgrade to a i5 or i7, is it worth upgrading to one of those from a Core 2 Duo E8400?

 

[TheExodu5]

I'm having a hard time deciding if I should upgrade to a i5 or i7, is it worth upgrading to one of those from a Core 2 Duo E8400?

E8400 to a 2500K is a massive upgrade.

 

[IonicSnake]

E8400 to a 2500K is a massive upgrade.

Thanks!

 

[Fixed2BeBroken]

so...what's the difference between this board..

http://www.ncixus.com/products/index.php?sku=59318&promoid=1302

and this board

http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16813131701&cm_re=asus_p8p67_atx-_-13-131-701-_-Product

 

[eznark]

If any of you are bored and want to do a "this is what you should do with 1800" I'd be grateful. Main thing is gaming, this is essentially a BF3 rig! So glad to finally be able to say that. I don't really expect you to, but if you've got time or articles I should look at. My current build is about 4 years old, q6600 over clocked to 3.0 and an 8800gts so this will be a fantastically huge upgrade!

 

[Omiee]

http://tweakers.net/pricewatch/257819/ocz-vertex-2-sata-ii-25-inch-ssd-60gb.html

is this a good SSD? i only want to install firefox and windows on it.

 

[Hazaro]

FINAL BUILD!

After more than six years with the same computer, I'm finally ready to put my new rig together. My current desktop endured his fair share of work during all this time, but you know it's time to renew your hardware when YouTube turns into hick-up central.

CPU: Intel i5 2500
Fan: Noctua NH-C12P SE14
Motherboard: Asus P8P67 R3.0
RAM: Ripjaws 1600 (2GB x 4)
PSU: Corsair Gaming Series GS700 (700W)
Video card: MSI R6950 2GB
Case: Fractal R3
Storage: Vertex 3 120GB

Everything is recycled, including my crusty 750GB HDD (used as main storage), the optical drive and the sound card (Audigy 2 ZS). I think it's a pretty standard build other than the SSD, but I'm open to changes (other than the memory, which is already purchased). It will be used for both gaming (at 1080p) and work (mostly office-like duties with some minor video editing), so it has to hold itself for a little while and be silent-ish.

Unless you got some good deal on the GS700W (Like a Best Buy discount) I'd try to get a TX or Seasonic unit. It's still fine, but not on part with the rest of the higher quality PSU line up. Especially with the rest of your parts, I'd spend a bit more for a V2 PSU or a Seasonic 520w if you are running 1 card.
*feist covered a lot of when when I was watching TSL.

so...what's the difference between this board..

http://www.ncixus.com/products/index.php?sku=59318&promoid=1302

and this board

http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16813131701&cm_re=asus_p8p67_atx-_-13-131-701-_-Product

If any of you are bored and want to do a "this is what you should do with 1800" I'd be grateful. Main thing is gaming, this is essentially a BF3 rig! So glad to finally be able to say that. I don't really expect you to, but if you've got time or articles I should look at. My current build is about 4 years old, q6600 over clocked to 3.0 and an 8800gts so this will be a fantastically huge upgrade!

If you tab through the past pages I think 1 was already put together. Over $1500 an you see diminishing returns.

Fill out the info from the OP and help us help you.

 

[Raistlin]

Right now I'm using Core 2 Duo E8400 so I'm going to have to upgrade the motherboard and RAM as well but I was wondering more about i5 2500k vs i7 2600k.

heh, I actually was confused a bit by what you were asking as well.


But yeah, for gaming just stick with the 2500k