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"I need a New PC!" 2011 Edition of SSD's for everyone! |OT|

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·

·feist·

Member
Intel G3 SSDs (not 510 series)


Intel 320 Series Boot Demo
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Bk4oY3QpbVg


Intel® Solid-State Drive 320 Series Overview
http://www.intel.com/design/flash/nand/320series/overview.htm


Intel SSD 320 Series
40GB Sequential Read 200MB/sec、Sequential Write 45MB/sec、
Random Read 30,000IOPS、Random Write 3,700IOPS、予価 8,000円台中～後半

80GB Sequential Read 270MB/sec、Sequential Write 90MB/sec、
Random Read 38,000IOPS、Random Write 10,000IOPS、予価 15,000円台中～後半

120GB Sequential Read 270MB/sec、Sequential Write 130MB/sec、
Random Read 38,000IOPS、Random Write 14,000IOPS、予価 19,000円台後半

160GB Sequential Read 270MB/sec、Sequential Write 165MB/sec、
Random Read 39,000IOPS、Random Write 21,000IOPS、予価 25,000円台中～後半

300GB Sequential Read 270MB/sec、Sequential Write 205MB/sec、
Random Read 39,500IOPS、Random Write 23,000IOPS、予価 47,000円台

600GB Sequential Read 270MB/sec、Sequential Write 220MB/sec、
Random Read 39,500IOPS、Random Write 23,000IOPS、予価 90,000円台前半

40GB - $89
80GB - $159
120GB - $209
160GB - $289
300GB - $529
600GB - $1,069


Intel-320-SSD-Front-Close-300x208.jpg

Intel 320 Series 300GB SATA II SSD Review – Intel Maintains Focus On SATA II SSD Consumer Need
http://thessdreview.com/our-reviews...maintains-focus-on-sata-ii-ssd-consumer-need/

Intel's 320 Series solid-state drive - back to the next generation
http://techreport.com/articles.x/20653/1

Intel 320 Series 300GB SSD Review w/ 25nm Flash!
http://www.legitreviews.com/article/1579/1/
 
T

TheExodu5

Banned
It's a shame the 80GB model is so much...it should be $139 to stay in line with the 120GB price point. If it were $139, it would be hands down the best low capacity SSD to get. The higher capacity versions are in a bad spot, IMO, since spending that much, you may as well go with the models that perform a lot better.

Intel's got reliability on its side, but performance is just too far below modern SSDs for me to consider it for my next drive. Vertex 3 is still winning that debate (though the m4 seems decent in real world benchmarks).
 
T

TheExodu5

Banned
BloodySinner said:
So wrong.
Click to expand...

The exterior is all plastic. It's the most plasticky looking case I've seen. It's a damned good case, but it's ugly as hell.

Hazaro said:
The point of using a blob or lines, then pressing the HS down on it is so that the pressure forces all the small pockets of air out and provied a good thermal contact. Even spreading it or pressing with a business card can't really do that.
Glad the temps have worked out for you though.

My TRUE120 cools like crap. I'm wondering if it is because of the buildup on it or something.
Click to expand...

The true has a very dense fin layout. I think you need fans with high enough static pressure to do well with it...somewhere along the lines of 1200RPM and above. It's actually still probably the best air cooler out there.
 
L

LegoDad

Member
Advance_Alarm said:
how much do you want for it, id do 120
Click to expand...

Trying to decide between SLI the 460 or get a better card, from what I'm reading since the post, the SLI of the 460's is a better idea than a 560, since the performance jump isn't much greater from 460-560, I could be wrong though.
 
M

mkenyon

Banned
caliblue15 said:
Trying to decide between SLI the 460 or get a better card, from what I'm reading since the post, the SLI of the 460's is a better idea than a 560, since the performance jump isn't much greater from 460-560, I could be wrong though.
Click to expand...
http://www.neogaf.com/forum/showpost.php?p=26715356&postcount=10527

TheExodu5 said:
Spending on a good case is worth it in my opinion, since it will outlast everything else in your build (along with the PSU).
Click to expand...
If I could rate how much I agree with any post, on a scale of 1-10, I'd give this one 10,000.

I like the 650D a lot as well, though the weight is a huge turnoff for me since I go to LANs often. If you're going to have it sit in one place forever, it's a good 'un.
 
A

Advance_Alarm

Member
caliblue15 said:
Trying to decide between SLI the 460 or get a better card, from what I'm reading since the post, the SLI of the 460's is a better idea than a 560, since the performance jump isn't much greater from 460-560, I could be wrong though.
Click to expand...

yea if you want to sell it im buying, the experienced people on this thread are saying that getting 2 mid-tier cards isn't really that good for SLI
 
L

LegoDad

Member
mkenyon said:
http://www.neogaf.com/forum/showpost.php?p=26715356&postcount=10527


If I could rate how much I agree with any post, on a scale of 1-10, I'd give this one 10,000.

I like the 650D a lot as well, though the weight is a huge turnoff for me since I go to LANs often. If you're going to have it sit in one place forever, it's a good 'un.
Click to expand...

So if I'm at 1080p with an i7-970 looking for a some more graphical power over a single 460, should I just wait for a better card or am I getting greedy with what I have now. lol
 
L

LegoDad

Member
TheExodu5 said:
I'd wait for a better card.
Click to expand...

That's what I'm leaning towards, everything is either too expensive for performance or not worth the jump from a 460. Think I'm just getting the, I wanna update to the best bug.. lol
 
D

Deleted member 17706

Unconfirmed Member
Zefah said:
I was playing Crysis maxed out for an hour or so the other day and didn't have any problems, but, just to be sure, I'll run Prime95 later tonight for a while to see how high the temperatures get.

What temperature monitoring program do you recommend?
Click to expand...

So I went and ran Prime95 for 5 minutes or so until one of the cores shot up to 83c and I stopped the test.

There definitely appears to be something wrong with my application of the thermal paste; I really don't think the cores should be getting that hot. I guess I'll just not doing anything super intensive until my new cooler shows up.
 
Hawk269

Hawk269

Member
Windows 7 Question....

When my friend built my rig we bought WIndows 7 64bit OEM and installed it to the new system. I am now upgrading to a new Mobo with the Sandy Bridge processor. The original HDD is being formated to be used in the newer build. Do I have to do anything with Microsoft to allow my copy of Win7 to work on the new rig?

I had heard that it is meant for one system only, but now that system will not exist. It will never go on-line again since the HDD is being wiped and I was thinking that I can just re-install it to the HDD with the new Mobo. Is that correct and if not what do I need to do? I would hate to have to buy another copy of WIndows 64bit.

Thanks!
 
L

LegoDad

Member
Hawk269 said:
Windows 7 Question....

When my friend built my rig we bought WIndows 7 64bit OEM and installed it to the new system. I am now upgrading to a new Mobo with the Sandy Bridge processor. The original HDD is being formated to be used in the newer build. Do I have to do anything with Microsoft to allow my copy of Win7 to work on the new rig?

I had heard that it is meant for one system only, but now that system will not exist. It will never go on-line again since the HDD is being wiped and I was thinking that I can just re-install it to the HDD with the new Mobo. Is that correct and if not what do I need to do? I would hate to have to buy another copy of WIndows 64bit.

Thanks!
Click to expand...

Should be fine, if any issues call MS, but you shouldn't have issues since the other CPU will never back online.
 
B

BloodySinner

Banned
Windows 7 Question....

When my friend built my rig we bought WIndows 7 64bit OEM and installed it to the new system. I am now upgrading to a new Mobo with the Sandy Bridge processor. The original HDD is being formated to be used in the newer build. Do I have to do anything with Microsoft to allow my copy of Win7 to work on the new rig?

I had heard that it is meant for one system only, but now that system will not exist. It will never go on-line again since the HDD is being wiped and I was thinking that I can just re-install it to the HDD with the new Mobo. Is that correct and if not what do I need to do? I would hate to have to buy another copy of WIndows 64bit.

Thanks!
Click to expand...

"You can upgrade any components or peripherals on your PC and keep your license intact. You can replace the motherboard with an identical model or an equivalent model from the OEM if it fails. However, if you personally replace or upgrade the motherboard, your OEM Windows license is null and void."

Microsoft sucks.

http://www.zdnet.com/blog/bott/what-microsoft-wont-tell-you-about-windows-7-licensing/1514?pg=2

The article is well worth the read.
 
S

scogoth

Member
Hawk269 said:
Windows 7 Question....

When my friend built my rig we bought WIndows 7 64bit OEM and installed it to the new system. I am now upgrading to a new Mobo with the Sandy Bridge processor. The original HDD is being formated to be used in the newer build. Do I have to do anything with Microsoft to allow my copy of Win7 to work on the new rig?

I had heard that it is meant for one system only, but now that system will not exist. It will never go on-line again since the HDD is being wiped and I was thinking that I can just re-install it to the HDD with the new Mobo. Is that correct and if not what do I need to do? I would hate to have to buy another copy of WIndows 64bit.

Thanks!
Click to expand...

It won't activate and you'll have to call microsoft. They may or may not allow you to re-activate that licence.
 
R

Raistlin

Post Count: 9999
BloodySinner said:
"You can upgrade any components or peripherals on your PC and keep your license intact. You can replace the motherboard with an identical model or an equivalent model from the OEM if it fails. However, if you personally replace or upgrade the motherboard, your OEM Windows license is null and void."

Microsoft sucks.

http://www.zdnet.com/blog/bott/what-microsoft-wont-tell-you-about-windows-7-licensing/1514?pg=2

The article is well worth the read.
Click to expand...
There are ways around it.



That said, while I don't love MS's pricing levels I can hardly blame them for their terms. They sell OEM discs at a bulk discount to be used with retail builds. Some of these discs end up on the market by resellers, bypassing the intent of the discount. Again though, there are ways around it.
 
M

mrklaw

MrArseFace
Hazaro will probably suggest a seasonic 520W rather than a corsair TX 650W. I went with his advice with a similar setup to yours.

you going with stock cooling (retail CPU and no separate cooler)? thats fine, just want to check
 
J

JaseC

gave away the keys to the kingdom.
What about Operating Systems obtained via MSDN AA? I'm reasonably sure I haven't yet used my Win7 x64 key, but if I have, is there a chance MS won't let me activate my next system?
 
J

JaseC

gave away the keys to the kingdom.
Bumping as I have a more important question:

I've just discovered that my OS drive has been causing my PC to lock up time and time again over the past month or so (I finally got around to ruling everything else out). I've decided to replace the malfunctioning OS drive with a 60GB SSD as that's part of my intended upcoming upgrade, so what are the recommended options?
 
S

sk3tch

Member
comrade said:
Manual or Offset?
Click to expand...

I have an MSI board (P67A-GD53) so I'm not sure if this applies...but I am manually entering in the CPU vcore in the BIOS. I was using their "Control Center" app within Win7 to fiddle before, but I found that it was not 100% reliable. I believe there is an offset as the vcore will increase a bit over my minimum as needed (i.e. I'm set to 1.36v and CPU-Z reads 1.416v as I'm running Prime95).

At 1.35v, 4.7GHz now...at 1.34v it crashed on one core after 6+ hours in Prime95 blend. Temps are now high 70s C so I'm running out of headroom to keep at it RE: stability at 4.7GHz.
 
J

JackEtc

Member
I'm having a weird problem with my build guys.

AMD 1090T BE Processor
ASUS M4A89GTD PRO/USB3 Motherboard
Radeon HD 5570 Low-Profile Ready GPU
6GB DDR3 1333Mhz
Antec TP-750 PSU

Last night, I was trying to overclock my 1090T BE. I don't have the Turbo key on the Mobo flipped either (tried it, no difference). I tried using AMD OverDrive, ASUS TurboV Evo, and the ASUS OC Utility (Which is just a button in the BIOS that attempts to auto-overclock). For each one, the computer would shut down to restart, and then the computer would boot up without any video. Sometimes it wouldn't boot into windows, and I would have to hard restart the computer, which would then bring up video, display the post screen, and say that overclocking has FAILED, and to either continue or load default values in the BIOS. Other times, I would have my headphones on and I could hear the computer boot into windows, but I would never get video. I have to reset the CMOS to get it back, and then re-enter everything in the BIOS.

Why is it that my high-end processor designed for overclocking not able to overclock right? What's causing this problem?

For the record, I haven't tried to manually overclock through the BIOS, because I really don't want to mess with that (I'm afraid I'll fuck something up).
 
F

Funky Papa

FUNK-Y-PPA-4
Man, OCZ is taking its sweet time to launch the Vertex 3. My shop was supposed to receive them today, but they are still waiting for OCZ's shipment. Apparently they were polishing a new firmware before release...
 
P

Pachael

Member
The Intel320 is disappointing considering the new controllers. In another few months, then when the other competition bring out the goods. Maybe it was unrealistic to expect it to compare to the Vertex3.
 
E

eznark

Banned
Is that the three slot card that I am getting? Looks smaller in the case than I would have thought.

On the subject of SSD's, what is the big differences? Why do the performances seemingly vary so much? I'm looking at the 120 Corsair Force drive since it's cheaper than the OCZ, is the performance a lot worse?
 
S

sk3tch

Member
eznark said:
On the subject of SSD's, what is the big differences? Why do the performances seemingly vary so much? I'm looking at the 120 Corsair Force drive since it's cheaper than the OCZ, is the performance a lot worse?
Click to expand...

Performance varies, but to be honest - ANY SSD will blow you away if you're used to only mechanical drives. Personally, reliability is my primary concern, then price, then performance...because all SSDs are going to blow away HDDs.

I have a "slower" SSD in my MacBook Pro and it is insane. Do I care if OS X loads in .5 seconds faster with brand xyz instead? Not really. I went for it because, for the price, it was a solid buy and it is the "official" Apple SSD so as far as warranty/reliability it's a good bet.
 
E

eznark

Banned
sk3tch said:
I have a "slower" SSD in my MacBook Pro and it is insane. Do I care if OS X loads in .5 seconds faster with brand xyz instead? Not really. I went for it because, for the price, it was a solid buy and it is the "official" Apple SSD so as far as warranty/reliability it's a good bet.
Click to expand...
 
C

CrankyJay

Banned
T

TheExodu5

Banned
eznark said:
Is that the three slot card that I am getting? Looks smaller in the case than I would have thought.

On the subject of SSD's, what is the big differences? Why do the performances seemingly vary so much? I'm looking at the 120 Corsair Force drive since it's cheaper than the OCZ, is the performance a lot worse?
Click to expand...
No those are 2 slot cards. The 3 slot didn't exist when I was buying...otherwise I would have definitely gotten it.
 
S

sk3tch

Member
rocK`what kind of CPU cooler are you going to use? Just be aware those Ripjaws have fins that stick up and can interfere with the larger coolers (i.e. I have a Cooler Master Hyper 212+ and I had to install my Ripjaws RAM in slots 2 and 4 instead of 1 and 3 to fit the fan). Otherwise, rock that 16GB. :)

CrankyJay said:
I should probably mention that I think 16GB is overkill if you're using this build just for gaming.
Click to expand...

True.
 
T

TheExodu5

Banned
rocK` said:
OK cool. I'll pull the trigger on that now while I research more.

What do people think about this (2x SLI):

http://www.newegg.com/Product/Produ...593&cm_re=gtx_570_evga-_-14-130-593-_-Product

Again, with the sabertooth MB.
Click to expand...
I'm using them and the performance is great, though SLI has it's issues. Crysis 2 never dips below 60fps.

If your motherboard is P67, your case is large enough, and you care about noise, then you may want to look at the triple slot Asus GTX 570 linked above.
 
R

rocK`

Banned
sk3tch said:
rocK`what kind of CPU cooler are you going to use? Just be aware those Ripjaws have fins that stick up and can interfere with the larger coolers (i.e. I have a Cooler Master Hyper 212+ and I had to install my Ripjaws RAM in slots 2 and 4 instead of 1 and 3 to fit the fan). Otherwise, rock that 16GB. :)
Click to expand...

Haven't planned that out yet, I'm hoping the clearance between my CPU/RAM slots on my sabertooth won't be an issue.

Yeah -- as I mentioned I know 16gb is overkill, I do do some development work (but obviously can't even touch 16gb).

Also, look at the cost in relation to what I get -- I can probably use the other 8gb in another machine or just give it to a friend who's also building a P67. $149.99 for 16gb is ridiculous!
 
P

-PXG-

Member
SILVERSTONE Fortress Series FT03B Black Aluminum / Steel MicroATX Mini Tower Computer Case
ASUS P8P67-M PRO (REV 3.0) LGA 1155 Intel P67 SATA 6Gb/s USB 3.0 Micro ATX Intel Motherboard
Intel Core i7-2600K Sandy Bridge 3.4GHz (3.8GHz Turbo Boost) 4 x 256KB L2 Cache 8MB L3 Cache LGA 1155 95W Quad-Core Desktop Processor BX80623I72600K
MSI N560GTX-TI Twin Frozr II/OC GeForce GTX 560 Ti (Fermi) 1GB 256-bit GDDR5 PCI Express 2.0 x16 HDCP Ready SLI Support Video Card
G.SKILL Ripjaws Series 4GB 240-Pin DDR3 SDRAM DDR3 1333 (PC3 10666) Desktop Memory Model F3-10666CL9S-4GBRL
SAMSUNG Spinpoint F3 HD502HJ 500GB 7200 RPM 16MB Cache SATA 3.0Gb/s 3.5" Internal Hard Drive -Bare Drive
COOLER MASTER Hyper 212 Plus RR-B10-212P-G1 "Heatpipe Direct Contact" Long Life Sleeve 120mm CPU Cooler Compatible Intel Core i5 & Intel Core i7
CORSAIR CMPSU-750TX 750W ATX12V / EPS12V SLI Ready CrossFire Ready 80 PLUS Certified Active PFC Compatible with Core i7 Power Supply
TP-LINK TL-WN722N IEEE 802.11b/g/n USB 2.0 High Gain Wireless Adapter Up to 150Mbps Wireless Data Rates 64/128 bits WEP WPA/WPA2, WPA-PSK/WPA2-PSK (TKIP/AES)
Click to expand...

Well this is my final revision. I decided that I wanted to get this built ASAP. I can always slap in more RAM and get a second graphics card a couple of months down the road. I can manage with 4GB (instead of 8) and one GTX 560 Ti (instead of 2) for the time being.
 
R

rocK`

Banned
TheExodu5 said:
I'm using them and the performance is great, though SLI has it's issues. Crysis 2 never dips below 60fps.
Click to expand...

Gamebreaking issues? is this something that I'm going to notice and be like 'eh'?
 
O

Outdoor Miner

Member
-PXG- said:
Well this is my final revision. I decided that to get this build ASAP. I can always slap in more RAM and get a second graphics card a couple of months down the road. I can manage with 4GB (instead of 8) and one GTX 560 Ti (instead of 2) for the time being.
Click to expand...

Why not get the 1TB F3 for just $5 more?
 
F

Foliorum Viridum

Banned
My 6950 is here :D Such a slick card, even moreso than my 5850.

Can anyone point me towards the best (and easiest to understand) guide to unlock it to 6970 speeds? I have an XFX one, if that matters :)
 
T

TheExodu5

Banned
rocK` said:
Gamebreaking issues? is this something that I'm going to notice and be like 'eh'?
Click to expand...
Yes. Crysis 2 water flashes. Some games have had flashing HUD elements. Shogun 2 simply breaks when hardware shadows are enabled with SLI. Sometimes microstuttering is noticeable, making 40-50fps feel like 30fps.

SLI will let you get performance that is otherwise unattainable with a single card, but if you never want to deal with these kinds of issues, you're better of with a single GPU like the GTX 580.

If I had to redo it, I would probably go with a single triple slot Asus GTX 580. Less performance, but half the power requirement, less noise, less space, no dealing with SLI issues. Most games don't even need the power at 1080p.
 
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