So Sandybridge units should be back in stock now? I'm looking for a whole new system that will last me for the next 3-4 years. I don't need to run high end shit like Crysis 2 or anything but I want to be able to run WoW/SC2/D3 at max settings. Only other notable PC release I'd really see myself caring about is Portal 2. I'm looking at around a 1,000 budget. Anyone have a decent build they can point to since the OP hasn't been updated in a bit?
-
Hey, guest user. Hope you're enjoying NeoGAF! Have you considered registering for an account? Come join us and add your take to the daily discourse.
"I need a New PC!" 2011 Edition of SSD's for everyone! |OT|
- Thread starter Hazaro
- Start date
- Status
Angelus Errare
Banned
Lion Heart said:
All a PC needs to power on is the mobo connected to the PSU. it'll turn on without a CPU or Vid card in. Now obviously you won't know if it POSTed without a videocard, so might as well put that in.
Lion Heart said:
It would turn on and fans would spin, but the mobo wouldn't post. If the PSU wasn't working, it wouldn't turn on. Yes, a PC can power on without a HDD installed. You can even get to BIOS.
-------------
Also, for the folks looking for a giant SSD, I really just don't think it's worth the money yet. Don't get me wrong, I have an SSD in every single computer I use regularly that isn't a server for the OS and regular programs. You just can't get the kind of performance:$ for a games drive with an SSD as you can get with a basic RAID0 array. For reference, I just ran this on my 2x1TB Spinpoint F3 RAID0 array. Remember, sequential read is what you want for fast loading:
mkenyon said:It would turn on and fans would spin, but the mobo wouldn't post. If the PSU wasn't working, it wouldn't turn on. Yes, a PC can power on without a HDD installed. You can even get to BIOS.
-------------
Also, for the folks looking for a giant SSD, I really just don't think it's worth the money yet. Don't get me wrong, I have an SSD in every single computer I use regularly that isn't a server for the OS and regular programs. You just can't get the kind of performance:$ for a games drive with an SSD as you can get with a basic RAID0 array. For reference, I just ran this on my 2x1TB Spinpoint F3 RAID0 array. Remember, sequential read is what you want for fast loading:
Uhhh...those speeds aren't right.
The F3 reads at a little over 100MB/s. Two of them won't read 4x as fast. Those random speeds are also about 2x as high as any SSD.
Values you should be seeing should be lower than (or near, at least) the Velociraptors in the following benchmarks:
http://www.bjorn3d.com/read.php?cID=1437&pageID=5993
Hero said:
ASRock P67 Extreme4 LGA 1155, Intel P67 chipset $152.99
Processor Intel Core i5-2500K 3.3 GHz (3.7 GHz Turbo), Quad-Core, 6 MB L3 Cache $219.99
CPU Cooler Cooler Master Hyper 212 Plus $29.99
Memory G.Skill Ripjaws 4 GB (2 x 2 GB) 240-Pin DDR3-1333 Dual-Channel Desktop Memory Kit $54.99
Graphics Gigabyte Radeon HD 6950 2 GB GDDR5 $274.99
Hard Drives Samsung Spinpoint 1 TB, 7200 RPM, 32 MB Cache SATA 3Gb/s $64.99
Power Corsair CMPSU-650TX 650 W ATX12V, EPS12V, 80 PLUS-Certified $89.99
Add case, ssd, monitor whatever else you need. Want to upgrade any more then that go to asus pro board, and unlock the 6950 to 6970.
Even as I was posting it, I was wondering WTF is going on. It's late, and I'm hosting my mother in law.
I wonder if it has to do with the program being on my SSD but the test is for my games drive? Hrm.....
Either way, I'm still loading games crazy fast on it. Faster than a buddy's 60 gig patriot inferno in HoN and Warsow.
I wonder if it has to do with the program being on my SSD but the test is for my games drive? Hrm.....
Either way, I'm still loading games crazy fast on it. Faster than a buddy's 60 gig patriot inferno in HoN and Warsow.
nismogrendel
Member
I'm building a new machine, going to put in the order on thursday. I'm set for mobo/ram/OS. Still deciding between 2500k and 2600k.
I need some help picking out a video card(s). Reading the buildapc section of reddit, it seems most people suggest 2x 6950s flashed to 6970s. For about $150 more I can buy a pair of 6970s and not have to bother with flashing them.
I will be playing games at 2560x1600, toms hardware tests show 2x 6970 as pretty strong for this resolution.
The other option is to buy a beefy card like a 580gtx, and add another 580 down the road if needed (for Battlefield 3, etc).
I'm leaning towards the 6970s, it isn't too expensive and will play everything I want to play right now at the resolution/settings I want.
Good idea or not?
I just bought this version of windows, you get just a dvd case and disc, no manuals or anything like that.
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Produ...cm_re=windows_7_system-_-32-116-754-_-Product
For the $800 build, I'd read through some of the posts on here:
http://www.reddit.com/r/buildapc
I've been looking at other people's builds for the last few weeks and picking out my parts based on the feedback those guys get.
*edit* found this thread, he asked for a $900 build though. In the comments there are some good links/info.
http://www.reddit.com/r/buildapc/comments/ggv51/may_i_get_assistance_with_putting_together_a_900/
I need some help picking out a video card(s). Reading the buildapc section of reddit, it seems most people suggest 2x 6950s flashed to 6970s. For about $150 more I can buy a pair of 6970s and not have to bother with flashing them.
I will be playing games at 2560x1600, toms hardware tests show 2x 6970 as pretty strong for this resolution.
The other option is to buy a beefy card like a 580gtx, and add another 580 down the road if needed (for Battlefield 3, etc).
I'm leaning towards the 6970s, it isn't too expensive and will play everything I want to play right now at the resolution/settings I want.
Good idea or not?
DeathNote said:
I just bought this version of windows, you get just a dvd case and disc, no manuals or anything like that.
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Produ...cm_re=windows_7_system-_-32-116-754-_-Product
For the $800 build, I'd read through some of the posts on here:
http://www.reddit.com/r/buildapc
I've been looking at other people's builds for the last few weeks and picking out my parts based on the feedback those guys get.
*edit* found this thread, he asked for a $900 build though. In the comments there are some good links/info.
http://www.reddit.com/r/buildapc/comments/ggv51/may_i_get_assistance_with_putting_together_a_900/
If you want help with a build fill this out AND try making one of your own from the resources in the OP 
Windows you'll need a student copy for $30 or something.
If you can stretch to $900 it'll really help you out for GPU. Above reddit build is basically what I have in OP, just subbed mobo to save a touch.
That said, $800 SB means you get a GTX460, $130 mobo, $50/60 PSU, 1TB drive.
Windows you'll need a student copy for $30 or something.
If you can stretch to $900 it'll really help you out for GPU. Above reddit build is basically what I have in OP, just subbed mobo to save a touch.
Meh, $100.
Is the $30 windows 7 upgrade for students still able to be installed on a fresh harddrive without a previous windows key?
http://www.microsoft.com/student/en/us/windows/buynow/default.aspx
edit: beaten
Is the $30 windows 7 upgrade for students still able to be installed on a fresh harddrive without a previous windows key?
http://www.microsoft.com/student/en/us/windows/buynow/default.aspx
edit: beaten
Do you guys think I will be able to get by for another year to year and a half with a Q9650@3.6 without bottlenecking newer GPUs too much? This is strictly for gaming, no media encoding or anything. I am trying to wait until the true successors come to the i5/i7 line.
Right now I am pairing it up with a GTX570 @ 850mhz and 8GB or RAM.
Right now I am pairing it up with a GTX570 @ 850mhz and 8GB or RAM.
So, I stopped my choice on a GT430, but I'm now facing another dilemna.
There are so many models from so many different manufacturers, and I have no idea where I should head.
What should I be looking at, is there any crucial differences ?
If anyone has a specific brand/model to advise me, I'll take it too
Edit : Forgot to ask ... What is the situation of AMD and 3D Gaming / 3D Blu-Ray Playback ? Is that possible ? Because if that's possible on a Panasonic VT20, I'd rather go with the 5670 which is far more powerful than the GT430 as it seems ...
There are so many models from so many different manufacturers, and I have no idea where I should head.
What should I be looking at, is there any crucial differences ?
If anyone has a specific brand/model to advise me, I'll take it too
Edit : Forgot to ask ... What is the situation of AMD and 3D Gaming / 3D Blu-Ray Playback ? Is that possible ? Because if that's possible on a Panasonic VT20, I'd rather go with the 5670 which is far more powerful than the GT430 as it seems ...
When , if ever, does one benefit from having more than 1gb vram when not playing over 1080p?
edit :
well I'm too weak, I simply can't wait for Q4 especially since I now passed my exams and am going to be bored for the coming months. I hit the order button.
Asus P8P67 DELUXE REV B3
1TB Samsung Spinpoint F3 HD103SJ
Corsair 8GB (2x4096MB) 1600MHz XMS3
Intel Core i7 2600K 3,4GHz
Noctua NH-D14
MSI twin frozr II GeForce GTX 560 Ti1GB
Logitech MX518
Microsoft SideWinder X4
Corsair TX 950W 80+
Corsair Graphite 600T
Samsung SH-S223C 22X DL Svart
Few things to point out : I'll be doing some CAD so the 2600k will come in handy, I'll be getting an vertex 3 ...later. And the fractal design R3 was out of stock so a 600T will have to do.
edit :
well I'm too weak, I simply can't wait for Q4 especially since I now passed my exams and am going to be bored for the coming months. I hit the order button.
Asus P8P67 DELUXE REV B3
1TB Samsung Spinpoint F3 HD103SJ
Corsair 8GB (2x4096MB) 1600MHz XMS3
Intel Core i7 2600K 3,4GHz
Noctua NH-D14
MSI twin frozr II GeForce GTX 560 Ti1GB
Logitech MX518
Microsoft SideWinder X4
Corsair TX 950W 80+
Corsair Graphite 600T
Samsung SH-S223C 22X DL Svart
Few things to point out : I'll be doing some CAD so the 2600k will come in handy, I'll be getting an vertex 3 ...later. And the fractal design R3 was out of stock so a 600T will have to do.
Frankfurter
Member
Situation might change in the future, but atm 2GB are only of advantage if running games at more than 1080p (well, actually at more than 1920x1200) AND with huge amounts of AA/AF.
HD6950/2GB and HD6950/1GB are on par until 1920x1200 with tons of AA/AF. With 2560x1600 and a bit AA/AF the 2GB card starts to run away a bit (~10%) and completely destroys the 1GB card with tons of AA/AF (~50%).
Tendency is that games will need more and more VRAM though, so the true advantage of 2GB VRAM might actually be much more visible in 1 or 2 years.
Edit: Do you plan on adding like 2 or 3 additional GTX560Ti? ^^ Because 950W sounds a bit too much for that build. Like 400W too much
HD6950/2GB and HD6950/1GB are on par until 1920x1200 with tons of AA/AF. With 2560x1600 and a bit AA/AF the 2GB card starts to run away a bit (~10%) and completely destroys the 1GB card with tons of AA/AF (~50%).
Tendency is that games will need more and more VRAM though, so the true advantage of 2GB VRAM might actually be much more visible in 1 or 2 years.
Edit: Do you plan on adding like 2 or 3 additional GTX560Ti? ^^ Because 950W sounds a bit too much for that build. Like 400W too much
Fox1304 said:So, I stopped my choice on a GT430, but I'm now facing another dilemna.
There are so many models from so many different manufacturers, and I have no idea where I should head.
What should I be looking at, is there any crucial differences ?
If anyone has a specific brand/model to advise me, I'll take it too
I've only ordered EVGA since GeForce 6, and they haven't failed me yet. That's of course a preference, where someone else might not have this same experience. As per models, I haven't touched the 400 series, but the word is 460 all the way I believe. Someone will have to correct me.
DeathNote said:
If my Newegg search was successful, the P8P67-M PRO-
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16813131707
Well I'm derping...
Can someone explain a couple of things to me.
"Product Name: Windows 7 Professional with Service Pack 1 (x86) - DVD (English)
Number of Units: 1
Date Ordered: 2011-04-06
Deliverable: Download
Delivery Status: Ready for Download"
I'm on my laptop now, but how will I be able to install this on a new pc? Because right now I'm looking at somekind of setupd executable.
Here :
Can someone explain a couple of things to me.
"Product Name: Windows 7 Professional with Service Pack 1 (x86) - DVD (English)
Number of Units: 1
Date Ordered: 2011-04-06
Deliverable: Download
Delivery Status: Ready for Download"
I'm on my laptop now, but how will I be able to install this on a new pc? Because right now I'm looking at somekind of setupd executable.
Here :
DeathNote said:
I'd break it down for you, but I need to leave the house in the next 3 minutes or I won't get my coffee before work
Pull up these two links, click their details page, and just go side by side and compare.
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16813131707&cm_re=p8p67-_-13-131-707-_-Product
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16813131703&cm_re=p8p67-_-13-131-703-_-Product
Corky said:
http://www.maximumpc.com/article/news/how_burn_your_student_copy_windows_7_dvd
http://downloadsquad.switched.com/2009/10/22/how-to-make-a-dvd-of-that-student-only-windows-7/
Coldsnap said:
What happens is that the thing will be unactivated with no network cable plugged in. Go into the system properties window to activate, and it will say, "Hey, plug in your internet, or uh, activate over the phone?". Pick the phone option, and then you'll dial an 800 number. Give the robot on the other end the series of numbers on the screen, and it will read back a series of numbers to enter on the screen. That's it.
How hot should an E8400 be running?
I recently bought an Accelero Xtreme Plus for my 6950, which is great, it keeps it cool and quiet, but now that I can no longer hear my video card I've started to notice when my CPU's fan spools up, and just how loud it gets during gaming. So I installed some monitoring software, Realtemp and Core Temp, and both are reporting one of my cores is getting into the low 70Cs - which from what I've been reading is crazy hot. Googling "8400 load temperatures" has people talking about how they wouldn't want to go over 65C for every day use.
The thing is, I have a Thermalright 120 Ultra Extreme with a Scythe S-FLEX SFF21F 120mm fan, which should be some of the best, and quietest, air cooling money can buy. I've tried reseating the heatsink twice now and my temperatures haven't changed at all. People have posted that the E8400s are all kinds of screwed up when it comes to reporting temperatures, so it may just be a design defect, but that doesn't stop my CPU fan from getting loud as hell.
I recently bought an Accelero Xtreme Plus for my 6950, which is great, it keeps it cool and quiet, but now that I can no longer hear my video card I've started to notice when my CPU's fan spools up, and just how loud it gets during gaming. So I installed some monitoring software, Realtemp and Core Temp, and both are reporting one of my cores is getting into the low 70Cs - which from what I've been reading is crazy hot. Googling "8400 load temperatures" has people talking about how they wouldn't want to go over 65C for every day use.
The thing is, I have a Thermalright 120 Ultra Extreme with a Scythe S-FLEX SFF21F 120mm fan, which should be some of the best, and quietest, air cooling money can buy. I've tried reseating the heatsink twice now and my temperatures haven't changed at all. People have posted that the E8400s are all kinds of screwed up when it comes to reporting temperatures, so it may just be a design defect, but that doesn't stop my CPU fan from getting loud as hell.
Yeah, 65C was usually the max temp people would shoot for when overclocking C2D. 70C was pushing it.
It really doesn't make sense that temps would be that high with a TRUE though.
Hmmm...that's 3 people in the thread with really high TRUE temps so far. I wonder if it's a defect. Maybe it's possible the heatpipes stopped working? Either that, or the reported temp is wrong.
It really doesn't make sense that temps would be that high with a TRUE though.
Hmmm...that's 3 people in the thread with really high TRUE temps so far. I wonder if it's a defect. Maybe it's possible the heatpipes stopped working? Either that, or the reported temp is wrong.
How do you even find Intel temp ranges? I only see Tcase with 1 value.
http://ark.intel.com/Product.aspx?id=33910
http://ark.intel.com/Product.aspx?id=33910
itsnervedamage
Member
DEO3 said:
Sounds way high, my e8500@3.8 with a VenomousX doesn't get to 60C for the most part, I think it peaks at 58C, all in CoreTemp. Unless you want to get an IR gun or something for a real measurement, you might have to be ok with assuming it's just a reporting issue. Unless you've forgotten thermal paste completely, the heatsink is probably mounted fine.
Outdoor Miner
Member
Can anyone help me price my old computer? Going to put it on craigslist but I have no clue what to ask for. Most of you will probably scoff at the specs but I'm sure some WOW playing would be stoked to upgrade from his dell to this:
CPU - Intel E4500 2.2ghz
CPU Fan - Zalman CNPS9500
Video Card - Winfast Geoforce 8600 GT
Motherboard - GIGABYTE GA-P35-DS3L
RAM - G.SKILL 2GB (2 x 1GB) 240-Pin DDR2
Harddrive - WD Caviar Blue 320gig
Power Suppy - Antec 600w
DVD Drive - Samsung DVD
Case - COOLER MASTER Centurion 5
also anyone want to buy a Radeon HD 4850? Special GAF price.
CPU - Intel E4500 2.2ghz
CPU Fan - Zalman CNPS9500
Video Card - Winfast Geoforce 8600 GT
Motherboard - GIGABYTE GA-P35-DS3L
RAM - G.SKILL 2GB (2 x 1GB) 240-Pin DDR2
Harddrive - WD Caviar Blue 320gig
Power Suppy - Antec 600w
DVD Drive - Samsung DVD
Case - COOLER MASTER Centurion 5
also anyone want to buy a Radeon HD 4850? Special GAF price.
shouamabane
Member
Akia said:
I deliberated the same choice and went with the V3. The positives outweigh the negatives in my mind. Time will tell if I chose wisely.
shouamabane said:
Same here. The speed difference was just too large for me to ignore.
I think if reliability is a concern, the Intel 320 is a better buy than the 510. Sequential performance isn't quite as good, but random performance is better, and at least it uses an Intel controller, whereas the Intel 510 uses a Marvel controller.
Why does it only list crossfire tho? http://www.msi.com/product/mb/P67A-G45--B3-.htmlOutdoor Miner said:
I just ordered an:
Corsair Nova Series CSSD-V64GB2-BRKT 2.5" 64GB SATA II MLC Internal Solid State Drive (SSD) http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16820233108
on impulse after i saw it was on sale for 80 dollars after MIR. It was going to be my OS/WoW drive. But after reading all those blurbs about SSD's, would it be more prudent to have gotten a Vertex 3, or something of that kind with faster read speeds? This one has it listed at 215 mb/s.
This is my first SSD drive so i jumped in without knowing all the ins and outs of SSD's (although i'm very competent in other aspects of computer building).
Thanks.
Corsair Nova Series CSSD-V64GB2-BRKT 2.5" 64GB SATA II MLC Internal Solid State Drive (SSD) http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16820233108
on impulse after i saw it was on sale for 80 dollars after MIR. It was going to be my OS/WoW drive. But after reading all those blurbs about SSD's, would it be more prudent to have gotten a Vertex 3, or something of that kind with faster read speeds? This one has it listed at 215 mb/s.
This is my first SSD drive so i jumped in without knowing all the ins and outs of SSD's (although i'm very competent in other aspects of computer building).
Thanks.
forgrim said:
You should be fine. You got a pretty good deal. I just bought an intel 320 with same speeds but my netbook has lower sata controls so getting something faster would be pointless due to being not able to even come close to achieving the higher speeds.
But I think you got a great deal.
Outdoor Miner
Member
DeathNote said:
Woops didn't realize you said SLI when I first read your post. In that case the ASUS mATX board previously posted would do the job then.
forgrim said:
Going to the quality SSD like the one you ordered is going to be a massive jump on its own. Anything more is just luxury padding. Don't worry about going to something like the Vertex 3...it's a $300 buy-in for the cheapest 120GB model.
Using purely guesstimate data:
For Windows startup times, an HDD might take 40 seconds to load, a mid-level SSD like the Corsair Nova might take 12 seconds to load, and a high performance SSD like the Vertex 3 might take 9 seconds to load. It's faster for sure, but the jump is not nearly as large.
The difference in games loading might be larger. Say a level in Crysis might take 45 seconds to load on an HDD, 30 seconds on a mid level SSD, and 15-20 seconds on a high performance SSD.
The faster games loading is nice, but where you really feel the SSD is OS loading and simply the responsiveness of the OS. Everything feels quick and snappy, as if you just reformatted your PC, all the time. As soon as your Windows screen pops up, you can click on Firefox, and it launches right away with your Google homepage. Without an SSD, it would often take 30-60 seconds until my PC was completely usable, as it kept on loading stuff in the background and my HDD was constantly busy.
----
FYI - when I say Windows loading time, I mean from the time the OS starts loading (black Windows startup screen), to the moment the desktop appears. The BIOS loading won't be any faster, and that can take anywhere from 5-30 seconds, depending on your motherboard and how many components you have hooked up.
- Status