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"I need a New PC!" 2011 Edition of SSD's for everyone! |OT|
- Thread starter Hazaro
- Start date
- Status
BoobPhysics101
Banned
Sarcasm said:
No, it'd be best if you installed a fresh copy of Windows 7 onto the SSD, otherwise you could have alignment issues that'll mess up your performance.
pseudocaesar
Member
OK so I have my build finalised. I just wanted to ask a few questions on running a SSD. I have a 640gb Caviar in my current computer that I will use for my main data storage in my new build. But I picked out a OCZ Vertex 2 60gb SSD for $140 AU which isnt too bad, so I have a couple of questions.
-How would I go about installing Windows and setting everything up? I figure I build the PC and only have the SSD plugged in, and install Windows 7 as per usual.
-What then do I do with the HDD currently in my PC (already with Windows etc on it)? Should I wipe it?
-What do I need to do with it to be able to access it while still having the OS on the SSD?
-I get the SSD gives a huge boost in performance, so should I install the one or two games I am heavily playing at the time on the SSD and then just move them off for storage onto the other HDD once I am done playing them?
-How would I go about installing Windows and setting everything up? I figure I build the PC and only have the SSD plugged in, and install Windows 7 as per usual.
-What then do I do with the HDD currently in my PC (already with Windows etc on it)? Should I wipe it?
-What do I need to do with it to be able to access it while still having the OS on the SSD?
-I get the SSD gives a huge boost in performance, so should I install the one or two games I am heavily playing at the time on the SSD and then just move them off for storage onto the other HDD once I am done playing them?
Thought that was the case, thanks.Wazzim said:
Unknown Soldier
Member
An SSD will be treated by the computer as a hard drive. So just do whatever you would do with a hard drive to it.
There is some good stuff in the second post about SSD's. Not end all, but a good start.pseudocaesar said:
http://www.neogaf.com/forum/showpost.php?p=25108994&postcount=2
I'd leave your old HDD alone and do a clean install on the SSD (Make sure it's the only drive attached).
pseudocaesar
Member
Cool, I figured. So then I can plug in my old HDD and will be able to use it even though its got a Windows install on it? Or will the old one need to be wiped.Hazaro said:
Knitoe said:
I'm pretty sure that the 80% efficiency is regarding how much actual AC energy is pulled from the outlet in order to supply the stated amount of DC energy. In the case of the corsair AX850 at 80% efficiency it will need to draw 1062.5 watts AC at 80% efficiency to supply 850watts DC to the computer. The roughly 200watts is lost as heat. It will supply the 850watts as stated.
It should be good to go for his system and SLI in the future if that max load was 719 on the system you showed.
Stantron said:
1) Yes this is correct
2) Don't connect the PWR_FAN header, connect it to the other CHA_FAN header. PWR_FAN is for monitoring the PSU fans. Pretty sure you can't control fan speed if a fan is connected to it.
3) If you have a dedicated sound card the front audio panel should plug into that not the motherboard
4) Yes pin 20 is optional
5)I think that adapter you're talking about is a USB3 to USB2 header adapter. This is if your case has USB3 front ports but your motherboard doesn't have USB3. If the case has USB3 just route the cables out the back and plug them into the USB3 ports, or connect them to the adapter and connect the adapter to any of the USB headers on the motherboard (though they will only run at USB2 speeds if yo do this).
irishcow said:
This is correct. Only need for 1000W PSU is for 3 or 4 GPUS
SilverLunar
Member
Is 650w enough for this setup? (I already bought it so please be yes...)
http://s3.amazonaws.com/twitpic/pho...575051&Signature=K2x+Dkok2SIBO2lxdo2VUSsAdUo=
http://s3.amazonaws.com/twitpic/pho...575051&Signature=K2x+Dkok2SIBO2lxdo2VUSsAdUo=
captmorgan
Banned
I have an odd question that I hope you tech guys can help with. Right now I have my computer set up in the "computer room" about 15 feet from the living room. I wanted to know if there was a way I could same how make it that when I was in the living room I could use the computer on the big screen, but keep the computer in the other room.
The only way I can think to do it, is to run 15 plus feet of hdmi cable down the hall wall to the tv, and use a wireless keyboard mouse. I was wondering if there was a more elegant solution than that. As well I was wondering are you able to run both a wired and wireless mouse and keyboard at the same time?
The only way I can think to do it, is to run 15 plus feet of hdmi cable down the hall wall to the tv, and use a wireless keyboard mouse. I was wondering if there was a more elegant solution than that. As well I was wondering are you able to run both a wired and wireless mouse and keyboard at the same time?
Syphon Filter
Member
Thinking about getting this monitor. What do you guys think?
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16824236106
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16824236106
Syphon Filter
Member
Sarcasm said:
The resolution is 1600 x 900 and also i will like to note that i don't want a screen any bigger than 20".
Syphon Filter
Member
TheExodu5 said:
20" is not small, the reason is because i don't like when a monitor is too big. I saw a 23" and it is too big for me.
Syphon Filter
Member
Sarcasm said:
Yea but the only way to get higher resolution is to get a bigger monitor right?
I was wrong about the efficiency rating and how it relates, but my point still stand. You don't want to run the PSU at 80% or above it's wattage rating for a extended period of time, ie going to happen during heavy gaming sessions. Personally, I'll stay under 70% myself.irishcow said:
I don't understand why people are willing to spend $1000 on video cards, and yet, try to go cheap on a PSU. If it pops, it could take out you CPU, MB, video cards and etc.
TouchMyBox
Member
Syphon Filter said:
And here I am having gotten used to my 27 inch.
knitoe said:
Pointless if they don't state what power supply they're using as less efficient ones consume more watts than necessary. Also they say that they're using liquid cooling and other nonsense that bloats the power usage. The reason a lot of people recommend overkill power supplies is they've used shoddily made ones in the past that have to throw more power around in order to have the same effect as a more efficient PSU. Also that is stress testing, not gaming.
vetrox said:
1000W is overkill. 850-900 range is fine.
Omiee said:
Yes its enough.
captmorgan said:
You can try wireless HDMI http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16882339191
knitoe said:
Because people would rather spend $200 on as quality 850W PSU then $200 on a crap 1000W PSU that may pop and kill all their devices. Running PSUs at 80% is actually what you want, thats when most PSUs are at peak efficiency.
Syphon Filter
Member
Is resolution really that important? What will i miss out on?
Syphon Filter said:
Screen real estate. If the resolution is higher you will be able to fit more on the screen. For example when reading neogaf you will see more vertical of the pages and therefore more posts, meanwhile you can still have another webpage open beside it and see it in full as well.
Syphon Filter
Member
scogoth said:
I thought any widescreen will see the same as long as they are widescreen. So does that apply to gaming too? Also there is no better graphics or anything right?
You need to go check on prices. There are many good 1000W PSU ~$200. The difference between a 850W vs 1000W is $50-80. When you are willing to spend $1000 just on GTX 580 video cards, doesn't make sense to go cheap and save a few bucks here. If you are on a limited small budget, sure, get the 850W, but that's not that case here with $1000 video cards.scogoth said:
And, most PSU are at peak efficiency ~50% load. At 80% load, it's when most PSU starts stressing, more heat and the fan noise rackets up.
Like I already said, personally, I'll prefer to stay under <70% load on my 1000W. It's already been use in 2 system builds and expect to keep using it on many more, even when more demanding video cards come out.
Slayer-33
Liverpool-2
Has this been posted yet?
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Produ...42211-_-EMC-042211-Index-_-SSD-_-20148348-L0B
Crucial RealSSD C300 CTFDDAC128MAG-1G1 2.5" 128GB SATA III MLC Internal Solid State Drive (SSD) for $199
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Produ...42211-_-EMC-042211-Index-_-SSD-_-20148348-L0B
Crucial RealSSD C300 CTFDDAC128MAG-1G1 2.5" 128GB SATA III MLC Internal Solid State Drive (SSD) for $199
A few times, but you can never post deals too many times.
Despite the author's conflict of interest, I wouldn't be so quick as some to dismiss the report. A few of the claims may be damning. With the CEO they dredged up his past as a matter of establishing character, since corporate culture often reflects a company's founders and execs. Whether or not it's pertinent to these claims, or if the claims are even valid to begin with, remains to be seen. Of course, Copperfield Research's credibility has also been called in to question, so we'll just have to see how all of this unfolds.scogoth said:
To follow up on the last round of AMD AM3/AM3+ (AM3b) Bulldozer 1 and FM1 Fusion engineering samples, here are a few more screen grabs and slides with possible base and Turbo Core 2 frequency ranges.
ZD242046W8K43
Table 12. Engineering Sample Processor Part Definition Options
Table 13. Engineering Sample Processor Cache Size Options
Table 14. Engineering Sample Processor Number of Cores Options
Table 15. Engineering Sample Processor Package Options
Table 16. Engineering Sample Processor Roadmap Options
Table 17. Engineering Sample Processor Model Number Options
Table 17. Engineering Sample Processor Model Number Options (Continued)
Table 18. Engineering Sample Processor Segment Options
Table 19. Engineering Sample Processor Identifier Options
AMD FX 6-Core ZD282046W6K43 Bulldozer sample:
Click above for 1680 x 1050 original
Along with the pin count differences between AM3+ and AM3, is the difference in measurement.
ZD242046W8K43
Table 12. Engineering Sample Processor Part Definition Options
Table 13. Engineering Sample Processor Cache Size Options
Table 14. Engineering Sample Processor Number of Cores Options
Table 15. Engineering Sample Processor Package Options
Table 16. Engineering Sample Processor Roadmap Options
Table 17. Engineering Sample Processor Model Number Options
Table 17. Engineering Sample Processor Model Number Options (Continued)
Table 18. Engineering Sample Processor Segment Options
Table 19. Engineering Sample Processor Identifier Options
AMD FX 6-Core ZD282046W6K43 Bulldozer sample:
Click above for 1680 x 1050 original
Along with the pin count differences between AM3+ and AM3, is the difference in measurement.
Syphon Filter
Member
L0st Id3ntity
Member
I'm letting you know people Circuit City has the Zotac GTX 480 for 320$ with free shipping: http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B003N18TEC/?tag=neogaf0e-20
wtf
wtf
How does this Dell sound for $599/shipped+tax?
Studio XPS 7100 Studio XPS 7100 Minitower RK7100C [225-1612]
Operating System Genuine Windows® 7 Home Premium, 64Bit, English W7HP6E Processor and Graphics AMD Phenom II X6 1045T + ATI Radeon HD 5670 1GB P45AT56
Memory 6GB Dual Channel DDR3 SDRAM at 1333MHz - 4 DIMMS
Keyboard Dell Consumer Multimedia Keyboard
Monitor No Monitor N [320-7810]
Hard Drive 1TB - 7200RPM, SATA 3.0Gb/s, 16MB Cache 1TBS [342-9149]
Mouse Dell Laser Mouse 6BTNLM [330-1158]
Network Card Standard USB 2.0 + 10/100/1000 Ethernet IE [430-3775]
Modem No Dial Up Modem Option N [313-3607]
Adobe Software Adobe® Reader 9.0 AAREAD [410-1867]
Optical Drives 16X CD/DVD Burner with Roxio Creator 2011
Sound THX® TruStudio PC THX [421-9898]
Speakers No speakers (Speakers are required to hear audio from your system) N [313-6138]
Office Productivity Software (Pre-Installed) Microsoft® Office Starter: reduced-functionality Word & Excel w/ ads. No PowerPoint or Outlook
Hardware Support Services 2 Year Basic Service Plan TT2O [
Datasafe DataSafe 2.0 Online Backup 2GB for 1 year DSO2G
Miscellaneous Award Winning Service and Support
460 Watts
Studio XPS 7100 Studio XPS 7100 Minitower RK7100C [225-1612]
Operating System Genuine Windows® 7 Home Premium, 64Bit, English W7HP6E Processor and Graphics AMD Phenom II X6 1045T + ATI Radeon HD 5670 1GB P45AT56
Memory 6GB Dual Channel DDR3 SDRAM at 1333MHz - 4 DIMMS
Keyboard Dell Consumer Multimedia Keyboard
Monitor No Monitor N [320-7810]
Hard Drive 1TB - 7200RPM, SATA 3.0Gb/s, 16MB Cache 1TBS [342-9149]
Mouse Dell Laser Mouse 6BTNLM [330-1158]
Network Card Standard USB 2.0 + 10/100/1000 Ethernet IE [430-3775]
Modem No Dial Up Modem Option N [313-3607]
Adobe Software Adobe® Reader 9.0 AAREAD [410-1867]
Optical Drives 16X CD/DVD Burner with Roxio Creator 2011
Sound THX® TruStudio PC THX [421-9898]
Speakers No speakers (Speakers are required to hear audio from your system) N [313-6138]
Office Productivity Software (Pre-Installed) Microsoft® Office Starter: reduced-functionality Word & Excel w/ ads. No PowerPoint or Outlook
Hardware Support Services 2 Year Basic Service Plan TT2O [
Datasafe DataSafe 2.0 Online Backup 2GB for 1 year DSO2G
Miscellaneous Award Winning Service and Support
460 Watts
Naked Snake
Member
Does anybody here have a 3D PC monitor? Which model is it and how do you like it? Do you only play games in 3D or also watch 3D movies?
A couple of days ago I bought a professional grade wide gamut RGB LED IPS monitor (LG W2420R) and I'm so in love with it:
The fact that I got it for a super-low price is blowing my mind, and I'm thisclose to going out and buying a second one (it's one hell of a bargain and the store has only one more unit in stock)
There is just a faint voice in my head telling me that maybe I should wait and get a 3D monitor instead. I'd love to be able to watch 3D blu-rays and play games in 3D, but pursuing that now would incur substantial additional costs (new BD drive, GPU, PSU and case), and more importantly I'm not sure how "mature" the tech is at this point, and that's where I'd love to hear GAF's opinion.
Is it a good time to jump on 3D now? What new developments are on the horizon? When do you think ~24" glassless 3D displays like the 3DS one would become an affordable reality?
A couple of days ago I bought a professional grade wide gamut RGB LED IPS monitor (LG W2420R) and I'm so in love with it:
The fact that I got it for a super-low price is blowing my mind, and I'm thisclose to going out and buying a second one (it's one hell of a bargain and the store has only one more unit in stock)
There is just a faint voice in my head telling me that maybe I should wait and get a 3D monitor instead. I'd love to be able to watch 3D blu-rays and play games in 3D, but pursuing that now would incur substantial additional costs (new BD drive, GPU, PSU and case), and more importantly I'm not sure how "mature" the tech is at this point, and that's where I'd love to hear GAF's opinion.
Is it a good time to jump on 3D now? What new developments are on the horizon? When do you think ~24" glassless 3D displays like the 3DS one would become an affordable reality?
Syphon Filter
Member
You guys know if Lite-on is a good brand for an optical drive?
AllIsOneIsNone
Banned
So I just bought a bunch of computer parts, the AMD phenom 2 being my cpu. On the side it recommends using it conjunction with ATI graphics cards to get the ever so amazing "vision technology".
So the question is: is ATI where its at for me? Or is Nvidia just as compatible.
So the question is: is ATI where its at for me? Or is Nvidia just as compatible.
Hawk269
Member
Ok guys, I need some help with achieving 5.1 dolby digital on my system. Short story:
My PC is hooked up to my 55" Sony TV. For some reason, via HDMI the PC only reconizes 2 speakers (there are 2 physical speakers on the TV), but I have an Optical Cable going from the TV to the Receiver. My 360 and Cable box are direct connect to the TV via HDMI, but they do output to 5.1. My PS3 and PC do not for some odd reason.
So, my motherboard has a Optical Out and for the life of me, I cannot get it to output to 5.1. All I can get in the desktop or in a game is 2.0 sound. I have the latest drivers and all, but it is a no go. Even thought I found a way to test DTS and DD in the menu, there is no setting or way I can figure out to get 5.1 output.
Would it be better to go with a dedicated sound card instead? Any recommnedation on one that is not too expensive. Main reason is right now the PC is routed through the receiver and then the receiver to the TV. I would rather go direct to the TV instead of going though a passthrough on the receiver. With the passthrough I do get 5.1 though.
My PC is hooked up to my 55" Sony TV. For some reason, via HDMI the PC only reconizes 2 speakers (there are 2 physical speakers on the TV), but I have an Optical Cable going from the TV to the Receiver. My 360 and Cable box are direct connect to the TV via HDMI, but they do output to 5.1. My PS3 and PC do not for some odd reason.
So, my motherboard has a Optical Out and for the life of me, I cannot get it to output to 5.1. All I can get in the desktop or in a game is 2.0 sound. I have the latest drivers and all, but it is a no go. Even thought I found a way to test DTS and DD in the menu, there is no setting or way I can figure out to get 5.1 output.
Would it be better to go with a dedicated sound card instead? Any recommnedation on one that is not too expensive. Main reason is right now the PC is routed through the receiver and then the receiver to the TV. I would rather go direct to the TV instead of going though a passthrough on the receiver. With the passthrough I do get 5.1 though.
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