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"I need a New PC!" 2011 Edition of SSD's for everyone! |OT|

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Kalnos said:
If it's a specific pattern of beeps then you can consult your mobo guide to see what is going wrong.

I don't feel like making my own thread for my little predicament here, but I'm getting a no boot device available error message and when I go into the BIOS it does not detect a hard drive at all. Is that likely a dead drive issue?
 

Metalic Sand

who is Emo-Beas?
So for aftermarket heatsink fans is it normal for them to make a slight hum sound? Not really loud but it was clearly noticeable when i was trying to sleep so i turned my PC off. Installed speedfan then put it down to %50 helped alot though.
 

scorcho

testicles on a cold fall morning
funkmastergeneral said:
I don't feel like making my own thread for my little predicament here, but I'm getting a no boot device available error message and when I go into the BIOS it does not detect a hard drive at all. Is that likely a dead drive issue?
check to make sure you didn't inadvertently disconnect the power or SATA/IDE cable. i can't imagine how the drive failed like that unless it was just happenstance.
 

Kalnos

Banned
funkmastergeneral said:
I don't feel like making my own thread for my little predicament here, but I'm getting a no boot device available error message and when I go into the BIOS it does not detect a hard drive at all. Is that likely a dead drive issue?

Well, if you were messing around in the case, make sure you didn't unplug that SATA/Power cables from the HDD or motherboard.

If it's not showing up in BIOS I'd say it's either dead or you just unplugged it. Might be worth it to pop in your Windows CD to see if it's recoverable.
 
funkmastergeneral said:
I don't feel like making my own thread for my little predicament here, but I'm getting a no boot device available error message and when I go into the BIOS it does not detect a hard drive at all. Is that likely a dead drive issue?

Like Scorcho said check to make sure you didn't accidentally disconnect the cable. Also go into bios and change it from PATA emulation to AHCI. Bios might not have a boot device because it's in PATA/IDE emulation and two drives are conflicting with each other.
 
This is gonna be a really dumb question but im looking at different Dell and Falcon NW builds and im wondering how I would know which ones use the new Sandy Bridge architecture?
 
"This is gonna be a really dumb question but im looking at different Dell and Falcon NW builds and im wondering how I would know which ones use the new Sandy Bridge architecture?"

The processors will be i(3/5/7) 2(something). Basically, after the i3/5/7 part, look for a four digit number starting with a 2. 2500, 2600, 2300, etc.
 
Teknopathetic said:
"This is gonna be a really dumb question but im looking at different Dell and Falcon NW builds and im wondering how I would know which ones use the new Sandy Bridge architecture?"

The processors will be i(3/5/7) 2(something). Basically, after the i3/5/7 part, look for a four digit number starting with a 2. 2500, 2600, 2300, etc.

aah ok thanks. I wish articles and websites were more clear about that.
 

Hazaro

relies on auto-aim
Metalic Sand said:
So for aftermarket heatsink fans is it normal for them to make a slight hum sound? Not really loud but it was clearly noticeable when i was trying to sleep so i turned my PC off. Installed speedfan then put it down to %50 helped alot though.
Sure. If you think its too loud you can get a fan controller, or replace the fan (S-Flex, Kama)
Anticitizen One said:
This is gonna be a really dumb question but im looking at different Dell and Falcon NW builds and im wondering how I would know which ones use the new Sandy Bridge architecture?
Overclocking you'll want a P67 motherboard and 2500K
 

TheExodu5

Banned
Metalic Sand said:
So for aftermarket heatsink fans is it normal for them to make a slight hum sound? Not really loud but it was clearly noticeable when i was trying to sleep so i turned my PC off. Installed speedfan then put it down to %50 helped alot though.
Some do, some don't. I usually bring a 120mm CPU fan down to like 400-800rpm to make it inaudible.
 

CaLe

Member
Hey guys,

With some the 2011 blockbusters around the corner, and my graphics card dying, I desperately need a new PC.

Current Specs:

Processor: E8400
RAM: 4 GIG DDR2
Motherboard: Gigabyte GA-EP35-DS3L
GPU: ATI Radeon 5770

Budget:

1000$ to 1200$

I'm in Canada and will order most probably from NCIX.

Main Use:

Hardcore gaming + 1080p playback

Monitor Resolution:

I currently have 3 monitors plugged in my 5770. I use all three of them : one is plugged to DVI, the other VGA and the last one displayport using a VGA adapter.

Specific games that I'd like to play:

- Witcher 2
- Crysis 2
- Dragon Age 2
- Mass Effect 2 / 3
- Dead Space 2
- Shogun 2: Total War
- Test Drive Unlimited 2
- Assassin's Creed 2 / Brotherhood
- RIFT

Are reusing any parts ? :

Only my 3 monitors.

When will you build?:

I can wait 2-3 months.

Will you be overclocking?:

No.

Thanks for your help guys :)
 
So I have an i7 rig that I built last year and have 6GB of ram, was thinking about going ahead and doubling that to 12 GB.

The RAM that I have is this: http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16820145236&Tpk=corsair xms3 6gb TR3X6G1600C8

Do I need to get the exact same RAM? And those timings are 8-8-8-24, there's this one that looks like it's identical to what I have except it has 9-9-9-24 timings: http://www.newegg.com/Product/Produ...1600C9&RandomID=93981701131019920110109193159

Is the lower the number better? I'm assuming since the "8" timing one is more expensive. Do I need the timings to be consistent between 6GB "set" purchases?
 

TheExodu5

Banned
CaLe said:
Hey guys,

With some the 2011 blockbusters around the corner, and my graphics card dying, I desperately need a new PC.

Current Specs:

Processor: E8400
RAM: 4 GIG DDR2
Motherboard: Gigabyte GA-EP35-DS3L
GPU: ATI Radeon 5770

Budget:

1000$ to 1200$

I'm in Canada and will order most probably from NCIX.

Main Use:

Hardcore gaming + 1080p playback

Monitor Resolution:

I currently have 3 monitors plugged in my 5770. I use all three of them : one is plugged to DVI, the other VGA and the last one displayport using a VGA adapter.

Specific games that I'd like to play:

- Witcher 2
- Crysis 2
- Dragon Age 2
- Mass Effect 2 / 3
- Dead Space 2
- Shogun 2: Total War
- Test Drive Unlimited 2
- Assassin's Creed 2 / Brotherhood
- RIFT

Are reusing any parts ? :

Only my 3 monitors.

When will you build?:

I can wait 2-3 months.

Will you be overclocking?:

No.

Thanks for your help guys :)

Just an estimate:

CPU: i5 2500K - $230
Motherboard: MSI - $120
Case: Antec 300 - $60
PSU: Corsair 650TX - $100
CPU Heatsink: Cooler Master Hyper 212+ - $30
RAM: 4GB DDR3 - $50
GPU: AMD 6950 - $300
HDD: 1TB 7200RPM - $60
Disc Drive: DVD-RW $30
OS: Windows 7 Home Premium - $100

That comes to $1080 + HST = $1220.

If you do plan on getting a 6950, that is the one component I would buy asap, before AMD releases the updated version that cannot be unlocked to a 6970. Otherwise, wait and see if prices hopefully come down.

MisterAnderson said:
So I have an i7 rig that I built last year and have 6GB of ram, was thinking about going ahead and doubling that to 12 GB.

The RAM that I have is this: http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16820145236&Tpk=corsair xms3 6gb TR3X6G1600C8

Do I need to get the exact same RAM? And those timings are 8-8-8-24, there's this one that looks like it's identical to what I have except it has 9-9-9-24 timings: http://www.newegg.com/Product/Produ...1600C9&RandomID=93981701131019920110109193159

Is the lower the number better? I'm assuming since the "8" timing one is more expensive. Do I need the timings to be consistent between 6GB "set" purchases?

You want to make sure that they can run at the same timings at the same voltage. If one is 8-8-8-24 at the same voltage as the 9-9-9-24 one, then you can just slow the 8-8-8-24 one down a little bit. However, if one is rated for 1.65V, and the other is rated for 1.30V, then you might have a problem.
 

IrishNinja

Member
·feist· said:
NP, you're very welcome.
Don't forget to pick up some good quality TIM to mount the HSF with instead of just using what's included in the box. While you're changing coolers, take a moment to tidy up your cable management a bit. For instance, you're partially blocking the PSU exhaust and with space at a premium inside your case, you want to get things cleaned up as much as possible. Sloppy cabling impedes airflow.

ah, right - i got a thing of CoolerMaster Thermal Fusion 400 Extreme Performance with the rig, is that adaquate or should i go pick up something else specifically before it arrives? i think newegg says it should be weds or so, fingers crossed!

case is off at the moment, so ill see what i can do - the extra $ i paid for "professional wiring" seems to just've been them coiling/tying off, still a noob at this - from the pic, can you point to about where you're referring with teh PSU's exhaust? you're talking the cables on the bottom-right hand side, then? i guess i could tape them off above it, about where the optical disc drive is up top, if nothing else.
 
Hazaro said:
SMART monitoring can do something or something and you can lose data.
I'll be flashing mine very soon.

fuck. I bought one off recommendation on here. And I cant try to flash since I dont have my operating system on the hdd and i dont want to try to flash it with my other hdd in. ughhhh I really hope I didn't buy a fucking turd now :(
 

Mr_Brit

Banned
Broadbandito said:
fuck. I bought one off recommendation on here. And I cant try to flash since I dont have my operating system on the hdd and i dont want to try to flash it with my other hdd in. ughhhh I really hope I didn't buy a fucking turd now :(
Just turn off SMART monitoring.
 

Hazaro

relies on auto-aim
Broadbandito said:
fuck. I bought one off recommendation on here. And I cant try to flash since I dont have my operating system on the hdd and i dont want to try to flash it with my other hdd in. ughhhh I really hope I didn't buy a fucking turd now :(
You make a bootable media and you flash it before you load Windows so you dont need your other drive in. I'd backup important things if you can.

It should be fine after you flash. :[
 

vocab

Member
Hmm, I'm wondering if upgrading my 5850 would be worth it or not atm. I've seen a lot of people upgrade off the 5xxx series already, but I'm wondering if it's because they just like to spend money.
 

DiddyBop

Member
vocab said:
Hmm, I'm wondering if upgrading my 5850 would be worth it or not atm. I've seen a lot of people upgrade off the 5xxx series already, but I'm wondering if it's because they just like to spend money.
People of neogaf and the web in general upgrade in excess. That card is perfectly capable
 

Nelo Ice

Banned
so i dont have quite enough saved up yet to completely build a new pc(only have a gpu atm) but should i bother checking my local microcenter to get that sandy bridge deal or will i find a better/similar deal down the line when i do have enough money to build the whole pc?
 

vocab

Member
Nelo Ice said:
so i dont have quite enough saved up yet to completely build a new pc(only have a gpu atm) but should i bother checking my local microcenter to get that sandy bridge deal or will i find a better/similar deal down the line when i do have enough money to build the whole pc?

It's brand new. I don't see deals happening until at least a month or two. The rule of thumb with hardware is the longer you wait, the cheaper it will be, but there's always new hardware right around the corner. So you have to make the decision when to buy.
 
So I just realized that the Corsair 6GB of memory I've had in my PC for the past year or so have been running (on default settings) at 1066 clock speed when it was advertised to run at 1600. I researched a bit online and found that this is a problem with a lot of people using this memory: http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16820145236 and decided to go into BIOS and change the XMP profile to "profile1" which after adjusting seemed to set the appropriate clock speed, as read from this advice on a Corsair forum and some other random placed I searched online:

Bios Settings for TR3X6G1600C8 with Asrock X58 Extreme
Bios Settings for TR3X6G1600C8 G w Asrock x58 Extreme

Real Simple. I want to run the memory at 1600. I don't want to overclock, I just want it to be as stable as possible.

I want to know how to setup in the Bios.

It runs at 1066 using default settings.
I can use the XMP setting but should I change anything else?

I have found varying opinions on what to do and tons of overclocking suggestions but nothing for simple 1600 setup.

I have been to the end of the internet and back so don't tell me to google it. I am not frustrated yet but getting there.
Thanks

XMP should be all you need to do.

I set it, saved my BIOS and exited the settings. But my computer won't get past the Windows 7 loading screen, it ends up with a blue screen of death with a long error message saying Windows failed to load, etc. etc. (I can get the exact error message if that will narrow it down for anyone).

I'm forced to change it back to the original settings to load to Windows. Does anyone have any help how to run my memory to 1600 speed properly? I have a i7 920 with a x58 Gigabyte board.
 

Mr_Brit

Banned
MisterAnderson said:
So I just realized that the Corsair 6GB of memory I've had in my PC for the past year or so have been running (on default settings) at 1066 clock speed when it was advertised to run at 1600. I researched a bit online and found that this is a problem with a lot of people using this memory: http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16820145236 and decided to go into BIOS and change the XMP profile to "profile1" which after adjusting seemed to set the appropriate clock speed, as read from this advice on a Corsair forum and some other random placed I searched online:





I set it, saved my BIOS and exited the settings. But my computer won't get past the Windows 7 loading screen, it ends up with a blue screen of death with a long error message saying Windows failed to load, etc. etc. (I can get the exact error message if that will narrow it down for anyone).

I'm forced to change it back to the original settings to load to Windows. Does anyone have any help how to run my memory to 1600 speed properly? I have a i7 920 with a x58 Gigabyte board.
XMP should just work as it automatically sets voltage,timings and mutiplier.

Can't you just increase the memory multiplier and DRAM voltage manually in the BIOS?
 
Mr_Brit said:
XMP should just work as it automatically sets voltage,timings and mutiplier.

Can't you just increase the memory multiplier and DRAM voltage manually in the BIOS?

From what it looked like, by setting XMP to on it seemingly adjusted the voltage timings, etc. to what it was supposed to be. Then when I went to save and exit the BIOS it gave me a warning saying the overvoltage settings would make the life of my cpu, memory, etc. could be shortened with the settings I have changed. I figured it was just referring to the fact that the BIOS might just be giving an innocent overclocking warning but maybe it changed something else? The voltage seemed correct (1.65 I think) so I'm not sure how setting it manually will make it different from just turning on XMP but I'll try it.

Edit: I tried doing it manually and it also made my computer freak out... I'm not sure if I'm just doing something wrong or maybe my memory has just been defective all this time (as far as getting them to run at 1600mhz goes, otherwise it's been fine at 1033). I need to go to sleep though hopefully I'll get some answers tomorrow.
 

JoeBoy101

Member
Alright, guys. Apparently my old computer heard my new computer was around the corner, because it died last night. Now normally, this would annoy me, but given new computer on the way, I wouldn't worry, but the nature concerns me. The PSU went out on it and I wonder whether it was because of the feed from the house or whether it was just going bad.

For the past year, if I had my computer on for a while or under load for a decent period of time, the GFI on the breaker for my office would trip. Not all the time, but not uncommon either. It was almost like something was getting too hot, but I kept an eye on all my GPU temps and CPU temp and things were fine. I have all my peripherals and computer plugged into a large APC battery back-up/surge protector. The GFI only trips in this circumstance and never has otherwise, as the cable modem, router, and monitor are always on.

I guess my question is, how safe am I plugging in my new computer into the same room? Should I replace my battery backup as it could be possibly causing the problem? The whole setup was working well for 2 years before this breaker tripping started. I doubt the house wiring would start wigging out in that time, but could the PSU going bad cause the GFI to trip, while still plugged into the back-up?
 

Solo

Member
In GAF's opinion, what is the best video card out there if Im only going to go with a single card? I was going to go with a 6950 and then maybe throw a second one in during the future, but if I decide to stay with a single card, what is recommended?
 

AkIRA_22

Member
Solo said:
In GAF's opinion, what is the best video card out there if Im only going to go with a single card? I was going to go with a 6950 and then maybe throw a second one in during the future, but if I decide to stay with a single card, what is recommended?

sam27368 said:
If you're after the best then it's going to be the most recent such as the Nvidia GTX580

The 5970 is still the best, yeah technically it's two but it still out performs the 580 in basically every test, not bad for a 13 month old card. There are particular 'quirks' but they aren't deal breaking. Plus the 2GB of VRAM should give you a bit of head room for future needs, though you will probably replace it before you actually need that extra RAM. 5970's run for $650 here in Australia so I would imagine they would be much cheaper if you're in the states (or anywhere for that matter) bringing them in line with 580's.
 

OatmealMu

Member
I noticed that G.Skill's 2x2GB PC12800 memory is down to $50 and wanted to add another set to my system. A little research shows that I should be okay. On the other hand, I had to overclock the memory to reach rated speeds.

Any particular reason to avoid adding an identical set of sticks? Photoshop is hungry...
 

Solo

Member
How about this?

28b9oqt.jpg
 

TheExodu5

Banned
MisterAnderson said:
From what it looked like, by setting XMP to on it seemingly adjusted the voltage timings, etc. to what it was supposed to be. Then when I went to save and exit the BIOS it gave me a warning saying the overvoltage settings would make the life of my cpu, memory, etc. could be shortened with the settings I have changed. I figured it was just referring to the fact that the BIOS might just be giving an innocent overclocking warning but maybe it changed something else? The voltage seemed correct (1.65 I think) so I'm not sure how setting it manually will make it different from just turning on XMP but I'll try it.

Edit: I tried doing it manually and it also made my computer freak out... I'm not sure if I'm just doing something wrong or maybe my memory has just been defective all this time (as far as getting them to run at 1600mhz goes, otherwise it's been fine at 1033). I need to go to sleep though hopefully I'll get some answers tomorrow.

Sounds like your memory is not up to snuff.
 

TheExodu5

Banned
AkIRA_22 said:
The 5970 is still the best, yeah technically it's two but it still out performs the 580 in basically every test, not bad for a 13 month old card. There are particular 'quirks' but they aren't deal breaking. Plus the 2GB of VRAM should give you a bit of head room for future needs, though you will probably replace it before you actually need that extra RAM. 5970's run for $650 here in Australia so I would imagine they would be much cheaper if you're in the states (or anywhere for that matter) bringing them in line with 580's.

5970 is one of the worst buys today...I'd never recommend that. It's still around $200 more than a GTX 580.

GTX 570 is probably the best bang-for-buck high-end card out there. 6950 (unlocked to 6970) if you want AMD or Eyefinity.
 

Solo

Member
So between a single GTX 580 and a single 6970, the 580 is the way to go? Is that the general consensus?

EDIT: reading Anandtech's articles on both, that seems to be the case.
 

TheExodu5

Banned
Yeah that's the case. The exception is basically if you want to run 3 monitors at high resolution...then the 6970's memory might come into play.
 

TheExodu5

Banned
xero273 said:
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16820231311

Any problems with this ram? Going to use this with my 2500k build. For heatsink, any recommendations? I had a tuniq tower with my old e6600 and that was pretty good. Not sure what to get for the 2500k.

Nope. I'm using that exact same RAM with my build.

As for heatsink...any of the 1156 coolers work. The best for cheap is the Cooler Master Hyper 212+. If you want to go into the high end, then you're looking at Thermalright Venomous X or Noctua NH-D14.
 

LiquidMetal14

hide your water-based mammals
Is the H67 the same as the P67 motherboard? I noticed they are about the same price except one is atx the other is micro atx.
 

xero273

Member
LiquidMetal14 said:
Is the H67 the same as the P67 motherboard? I noticed they are about the same price except one is atx the other is micro atx.

You can't overclock with the H67 motherboards so go with the p67
 

LiquidMetal14

hide your water-based mammals
xero273 said:
You can't overclock with the H67 motherboards so go with the p67
I have a GIGABYTE case that I bought second hand. It's way better than the case I have now. Is there a way to tell if it supports both? I noticed there are cases which support both. And the screw placement on the case itself seems like it has a few extra holes.
 

JoeBoy101

Member
Update on my electrical issue:

Fascinating reading on the web. Apparently, newer homes (which mine is one) tend to have not GFI's, but Arc Fault outlets. The work differently in that they look for arcing between the poles while GFI's look for a discrepancy between the hot and neutral wires.

Computers tend to create noise and can cause tripping of these Arc Faults (one aspect of arc fault protectors is that the resets are not at the outlet, but on the breaker). So, not only am I bringing an electrician out, but I'm also going to extension cord wire outside the spare bedroom/office I have it in and plug it into the hallway. Also explains why the computer will cause the fault to trip, but none of the other items plugged up to it. Apparently, its fairly common as Arc Faults are fairly recent.
 
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