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"I need a New PC!" 2012 Thread. 22nm+28nm, Tri-Gate, and reading the OP. [Part 1]

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1-D_FTW

Member
Compusa (retail) running ads for the i5 2500k for 199.99 after rebate. They never put that processor on sale. Guess they truly are clearing stock for the Ivy Bridge launch at the end of the month.
 

Kambing

Member
Just be aware that you won't be able to stream 1080p content over a wireless bridge reliably.

Run a wire.

=(

I think i am just going to try and see how the bridge works. Its supposed to go up to 300mb/s lol. Realistically i am expecting 150-200mb/s. Hmm
 

MrBig

Member
Any rumors about IB pricing? Still planning out my build but I can't set anything in stone until more IB and nv 660 info comes out. If it's significantly higher than the current lineup I'll probably be going with a 2500k and a 560ti. Trying to keep it around $1100 sans monitor.
 

1-D_FTW

Member
Any rumors about IB pricing? Still planning out my build but I can't set anything in stone until more IB and nv 660 info comes out. If it's significantly higher than the current lineup I'll probably be going with a 2500k and a 560ti. Trying to keep it around $1100 sans monitor.

The old rumors didn't imply that. Sounded like the 2500k replacement would launch at about 229.99. Guess we'll see soon enough.
 

Smokey

Member
Is Intel Burn Test a better judge for a stable system than Prime95? I ran the standard test a couple of times and it did ok. In the second pic you can see the VID is @ 1.3761v, yet my voltage is at 1.26 (shows 1.248 in first pic). I'm probably getting confused but from what I read yesterday the VID is what is needed,power wise, yet I have mine at 1.26v and it was ok?

Maybe one of you smart guys could clarify?


intelburn1.jpg


intelburn.jpg
 

knitoe

Member
=(

I think i am just going to try and see how the bridge works. Its supposed to go up to 300mb/s lol. Realistically i am expecting 150-200mb/s. Hmm

A super fast and long range N Router (prefer 5GHz = 300-450mb/s) > N wireless bridge (prefer 5GHz) > switch (5, 10 or more ports) > LAN PS3, X360, computer and etc.
 

knitoe

Member
Is Intel Burn Test a better judge for a stable system than Prime95? I ran the standard test a couple of times and it did ok. In the second pic you can see the VID is @ 1.3761v, yet my voltage is at 1.26 (shows 1.248 in first pic). I'm probably getting confused but from what I read yesterday the VID is what is needed,power wise, yet I have mine at 1.26v and it was ok?

Maybe one of you smart guys could clarify?

VID is a fixed number which is program into the cpu die. You need only to look at the "Core Voltage". Use HWmonitor to see your min (idle) and max (load). If running IBT, run with extreme or one lower.
 

sk3tch

Member
I've had OCs pass Prime95 with ease and then crumble under IBT. It's worthwhile if you are seeing ANY bugginess/flakiness with your OC - i.e. random crashes. It may not just be buggy drivers or game software...use IBT and if it fails, crank up the voltage a bit more. I tested my 3930K at Extreme (with 32GB of RAM it took quite a while for 10 runs) and the temps stayed under 80C even with 1.41v...gotta love the Corsair H100.

It's quicker, too - Prime95 should run for hours to validate stability. IBT you can just do a standard 10 pass run - if it passes that, then do an extreme (or one lower as someone said previously) 10 pass run...combined it should take less than 2 hours of your time.

Just make sure you monitor temps. Get HWMonitor Pro if you want to leave your system be. Then you can monitor temps remotely from another box while you kick it.
 

AkIRA_22

Member
So I'm taking the liquid cooling dive (see what I did there). Here is everything I ordered

LiquidCooling.png


I am getting some de-ionised water from a hardware store, I'm not paying a PC company to put their mark up on water. The parts will be due in a few days, so if there is anything missing, I can to get it.

Thanks.
 

scogoth

Member
So I'm taking the liquid cooling dive (see what I did there). Here is everything I ordered

LiquidCooling.png


I am getting some de-ionised water from a hardware store, I'm not paying a PC company to put their mark up on water. The parts will be due in a few days, so if there is anything missing, I can to get it.

Thanks.

bitpower gold fittings man! be pimp!
 

Smokey

Member
I've had OCs pass Prime95 with ease and then crumble under IBT. It's worthwhile if you are seeing ANY bugginess/flakiness with your OC - i.e. random crashes. It may not just be buggy drivers or game software...use IBT and if it fails, crank up the voltage a bit more. I tested my 3930K at Extreme (with 32GB of RAM it took quite a while for 10 runs) and the temps stayed under 80C even with 1.41v...gotta love the Corsair H100.

It's quicker, too - Prime95 should run for hours to validate stability. IBT you can just do a standard 10 pass run - if it passes that, then do an extreme (or one lower as someone said previously) 10 pass run...combined it should take less than 2 hours of your time.

Just make sure you monitor temps. Get HWMonitor Pro if you want to leave your system be. Then you can monitor temps remotely from another box while you kick it.


I've done two recommend P95 tests from OC.net (they say if you can pass these two you will more than likely pass an overnight blend test), left it on Blend for 1.5 hrs, and just did a IBT Standard test. Got through all of those. I'm up to 4.6ghz on 1.27v, max load temps hit 70 on 2 cores under IBT.

Quite curious to see how far I can push it as it looks like I happened to get a very nice 2600k.
 

sk3tch

Member
I've done two recommend P95 tests from OC.net (they say if you can pass these two you will more than likely pass an overnight blend test), left it on Blend for 1.5 hrs, and just did a IBT Standard test. Got through all of those. I'm up to 4.6ghz on 1.27v, max load temps hit 70 on 2 cores under IBT.

Quite curious to see how far I can push it as it looks like I happened to get a very nice 2600k.

Yeah, that's insane. 1.27v is nothing. You should really just drop the 5GHz bomb and put the voltage to 1.35v and see if it's stable...then inch upwards from there (or downwards if it's stable).

I've been running my i5 2500k at 4.7 with 1.44v. :-D Temps are real good, though. Very much under the TjMax. Will be dumping my P67 setup. Going all Sandy Bridge E.
 

TxdoHawk

Member
Just to confirm: If I want a Geforce card in the $250 or so range and prefer EVGA, I should buy this? I'm willing to go $50 above or below (or possibly consider other brands) for a significant performance boost (or lack of tradeoff if cheaper). ATI is a no, however.
 

Hazaro

relies on auto-aim
Just to confirm: If I want a Geforce card in the $250 or so range and prefer EVGA, I should buy this? I'm willing to go $50 above or below (or possibly consider other brands) for a significant performance boost (or lack of tradeoff if cheaper). ATI is a no, however.
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16814130758
560Ti 448, or even a 570.

Can you hold off another month or so the new 660/670 cards should be out, guessing game on price though.
 

Lulubop

Member
Recommendations on a 120hz monitor, Nivida 3d vision 2 ready? Is the xl2420t pretty much the only option?

Looking for 23/24', 1080. Thanks.
 

Smokey

Member
Might be a shot in the dark here but I'll throw it out...

Tried Dirt 3 for the first time in a long time...and the game keeps launching in 3D...but I don't even have 3D enabled in the Control Panel. I unplugged it and it still keeps trying to do so, but now it looks like it's launching with a red tint (like it's expecting the red/blue glasses or something). Went into the config file and changed stereo convergence to false and tried again...but the game keeps changing it back to true.

This is pretty damn weird so I'm wondering if anybody else has had this type of issue?
 
Is Intel Burn Test a better judge for a stable system than Prime95? I ran the standard test a couple of times and it did ok. In the second pic you can see the VID is @ 1.3761v, yet my voltage is at 1.26 (shows 1.248 in first pic). I'm probably getting confused but from what I read yesterday the VID is what is needed,power wise, yet I have mine at 1.26v and it was ok?

Maybe one of you smart guys could clarify?


[IM]http://i830.photobucket.com/albums/zz227/dbswisha/intelburn1.jpg[/IMG]

[IMG://i830.photobucket.com/albums/zz227/dbswisha/intelburn.jpg[/IMG]

4.5ghz only?
El
Oh
El
 

Wazzim

Banned
Yeah, that's insane. 1.27v is nothing. You should really just drop the 5GHz bomb and put the voltage to 1.35v and see if it's stable...then inch upwards from there (or downwards if it's stable).

I've been running my i5 2500k at 4.7 with 1.44v. :-D Temps are real good, though. Very much under the TjMax. Will be dumping my P67 setup. Going all Sandy Bridge E.

That's some high voltage man for such a small chip.

Mine runs at 4.7 with 1.368v as absolute max when running Intel Burn Test. That's the highest clock speed I want to go because I'd like to keep temps under 70c.
 

Karmum

Banned
I bought a few new fans and now I hate my computer..

I think the Coolermaster 212+ is the main culprit. I am running two of its stock fans and it is the loudest thing in the case (fractal r3).

Are there any fans that are considered far and away the best for low noise + decent CFM?

Fry's has the Silenx Effizio 120mm which claims 44cfm @ 12dBA which seems like it could be decent
Well that's not very encouraging, I'm going to be buying a Fractal R3 case soon :(

Weird, don't think my 212+ is the loudest thing in my case. Was going to buy a 4-pack of Coolermaster 120mm fans for like $12 on Amazon but how well do they compare (in terms of quietness) to Noiseblockers or Scythe fans?
 

clav

Member
Word is out that Intel is releasing the an entry drive called the Intel 330 SSD in mid April ($150 for 120GB). Speculators say it's a low-end SandForce drive.

If you're looking for a cheap(and possibly reliable) SandForce drive, the SanDisk Extreme SSD seems to be right as I haven't seen complainers for this drive yet.
May change in the near future.

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B006EKJCWM/?tag=neogaf0e-20

Still going to play the waiting game.
 

Data West

coaches in the WNBA
Should I wait until the next console generation 'starts' before building a new pc? I'm not sure how much is locked on a hardware level, but I'm definitely needing a dedicated PC by sometime 2013
 

Hazaro

relies on auto-aim
Should I wait until the next console generation 'starts' before building a new pc? I'm not sure how much is locked on a hardware level, but I'm definitely needing a dedicated PC by sometime 2013
Wait a month and buy, about as good as it's going to be for a while.
Progress has really stalled out and is more geared towards lower power than speed at the moment.
 

MrBig

Member
Should I wait until the next console generation 'starts' before building a new pc? I'm not sure how much is locked on a hardware level, but I'm definitely needing a dedicated PC by sometime 2013

I'm doing the same thing you are. Console specs are likely already locked and based on the 7000 series for both PS4/XB3, so I'm thinking a 660 GPU and an Ivy i5 CPU (which should both be releasing in about a month) should hold me over for the next 3 years or so.

e: damn, the Radeon card versions are already encroaching back to the 9800, which was the first card I can remember having in my family's comp.
 

sk3tch

Member
That's some high voltage man for such a small chip.

Mine runs at 4.7 with 1.368v as absolute max when running Intel Burn Test. That's the highest clock speed I want to go because I'd like to keep temps under 70c.

Yup. Not recommended for all. But I monitor my hardware/temps constantly.
 

Duress

Member
I'm trying to install the stock heatsink/fan for an i5 processor and one of the screw bolts is stuck. I tried to squeeze the black and white peg parts and push it out, but it's not working. No matter how much I turn it and try to push it out it won't budge. Any idea what to do?
 

Hazaro

relies on auto-aim
Due to a suggestion, I'm going to post this here as well as the buy/sell thread.

Selling my recently built pc due to life's curveball's.

Cpu - i5 2500k
Gpu - evga 560 ti superclocked 1gb
Ram - 8gb corsair vengeance
Mobo - p8z68 pro asus
Ssd - crucial m4 64gb
Hdd - 2tb
Psu - xfx tx550w
OS - win 7 ultimate 64 bit

Asking 650$ due to dire times. Built for a bit over 1000$ late last year. Pm me if interested.
That is a very nice deal.
I'm trying to install the stock heatsink/fan for an i5 processor and one of the screw bolts is stuck. I tried to squeeze the black and white peg parts and push it out, but it's not working. No matter how much I turn it and try to push it out it won't budge. Any idea what to do?
You should be able to 'unlock' it by twisting as the arrow on the peg says, then pull it loose?
 

MrBig

Member
I bought a few new fans and now I hate my computer..

I think the Coolermaster 212+ is the main culprit. I am running two of its stock fans and it is the loudest thing in the case (fractal r3).

Are there any fans that are considered far and away the best for low noise + decent CFM?

Fry's has the Silenx Effizio 120mm which claims 44cfm @ 12dBA which seems like it could be decent

How is the r3 in sound isolation (and in general?) with the stock case fans and the 212 (with the case all closed)? I was planning on getting that case because it looks damn nice and the sound deadening was really attractive.

e: What are my chances of selling my current laptop (not necessarily on GAF) at a decent price to help pay for my desktop build? I have an android tablet now so no need of a laptop.

2008 HP HDX 18t - MSRP: ~$1,500
1920x1080 18.4" screen. TFT I believe.
9600m GT 512mb
C2D 2.4ghz
Blu-Ray drive
4x USB 2.0
1x eSata
SD Card reader
2x HDD bays
1x 750gb 5400rpm Hybrid Seagate Momentus (not stock)
4gb DDR2 800mhz Gskill (not stock)
2x 3.5mm Headphone jacks
1x 3.5mm mic jack
Capacitive media control keys
Full keyboard with numpad
VGA + HDMI out (can display on one other monitor in addition to the primary)
Infrared Receiver w/ remote and onboard slot to store it
No working battery. I use it as a desktop, so I have not bothered to buy a new one.

Can play most console ports just fine. Skyrim gets 40-60 loaded with mods and the hi-res bethesda texture pack. Can't play BF3 or TW2 and make it look acceptable. Crysis 2 averaged around 30 with some dips to 25 or so. I can test several other games if need be.
I recently completely disassembled it to give it a nice cleaning, the GPU fan was in dire need of it. No noticeable wobbling after having been cleaned.

It's not suitable to my needs anymore because as I need to be working in larger and larger documents in PS I am limited by the DDR2 ram and the CPU.
 

Hawk269

Member
Since I am still researching if I want to do this...I do need help...

For a Core I7-3960x CPU with the ASUS X79 Rampage IV mobo what is the best Ram I should go with? I am looking between 8-16 gigs of Ram total, dont need more than that, but am not sure what the best ram that is compatible with the motherboard.

Any help would be greatly appreciated.
 

Hazaro

relies on auto-aim
PSU is crap.
Mobo is fine if you get a good one, but enough people have had boot loop issues months into their ownership of GB boards so... be aware.
Other parts are fine, but you aren't saving any money.
 

Anustart

Member
Since I was forced to sell my current rig, I will be rebuilding this summer. I had a gtx 560ti which suited me decently at 1080p, but I was using my 32" tv as my display.

In arkham city I could max a lot, but not loads of aa and physx was only on normal/medium.

What id like to figure out is this...

In my new rig I want moar powa, but don't know how much or what card exactly. Am I better off getting a dedicated physx card rather than one beastly card? (not really wanting to sli, dotes having a dedicated physx count as sli?) Is nvidia expected to launch a 670/660 by july of this year? Any clues on performance gains over a 560ti? Or should I just go for the 680 and hope for a price drop by july?

Secondly, this tv doesn't cut it as a display, text is blurry for some reason. Can someone recommend a 25" or so decent quality display?
 

knitoe

Member
Since I am still researching if I want to do this...I do need help...

For a Core I7-3960x CPU with the ASUS X79 Rampage IV mobo what is the best Ram I should go with? I am looking between 8-16 gigs of Ram total, dont need more than that, but am not sure what the best ram that is compatible with the motherboard.

Any help would be greatly appreciated.

If you want the best, probably something rated DDR3 2400 MHz with CAS 9 timings. Seems like they are all 1.65V. If you only want to run 1.5V, you will need to drop down to DDR3 2133 MHz. And, if you are going to spend that amount of money, go at least 16GB.
 
PSU is crap.
Mobo is fine if you get a good one, but enough people have had boot loop issues months into their ownership of GB boards so... be aware.
Other parts are fine, but you aren't saving any money.

So that mobo is not an ideal choice with a 2500k? That is the same one I'm looking at currently, it comes with 8 gigs of free ram on one of the bundles. What mobo/ram do you recommend for that cpu (within same budget)?

I'm kind of tempted to just buy the used parts I linked earlier since its already assembled and comes with an aftermarket cpu cooler (are these necessary?). I only save ~15% compared to new though. Man, I'm really out of the game.
 

sk3tch

Member
Since I am still researching if I want to do this...I do need help...

For a Core I7-3960x CPU with the ASUS X79 Rampage IV mobo what is the best Ram I should go with? I am looking between 8-16 gigs of Ram total, dont need more than that, but am not sure what the best ram that is compatible with the motherboard.

Any help would be greatly appreciated.

I just bought 32GB of Mushkin Redline 993997 for my 3960x build. It's 1.5v despite what stores say.

Review:
http://www.tomshardware.com/reviews/quad-channel-ddr3-memory-review,3100-11.html
 
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