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"I need a New PC!" 2012 Thread. 22nm+28nm, Tri-Gate, and reading the OP. [Part 1]

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Yes, you can switch to AHCI. I've heard it's not "safe" and can result in instability but it's a simply registry change. I accidentally installed in IDE mode and made the adjustment myself, and haven't had any problems.

Try this, looks like the right instructions.
http://forums.pcper.com/showthread.php?t=444831



Make sure you have the updated firmware (0009 added a decent speed increase, not sure if there is anything newer), and make sure you're on AHCI and not IDE. 3Gb/s shouldn't limit that drive much, and 64GB is naturally slower than 128GB due to how SSDs work. If you've done that, you're speed is probably where it should be.

Cool thanks.

I think I want to get a 256gb SSD, but prices are still a little high. Any eta on the next round of SSD's so that the current ones will drop?
 

mkenyon

Banned
I love the look of your rig, even though I'm not a fan of the fans. Your cooling solution made me curious, so I checked out the Anandtech review and it does seem capable enough, compared to air coolers and it looks much cleaner. I really like that. Close to 50°C under load seems to be a bit high, though.

I might buy it for the G5 case.
Would have preferred non-LED fans, but the Spectre Pros that were in stock were either these with white LEDs or red LEDs. Probably end up replacing them with white blade options later on if they ever release any.

The temps are a bit high because of the cooling situation I have in my case. I didn't want the top as essentially an intake (how most people configure the H100). I wanted the side panel fan as in intake and to maintain good flow to make sure all the hot air from the TFII's was getting out, which would help reduce noise levels. Since the fans that the H100 is connected to would have been there whether or not I had a radiator, I essentially removed one or two fans from an air cooling heatsink that would have also disrupted continuous airflow.
 

Hawk269

Member
I am thinking of adding a SSD to my system. I currently have 2 1TB HDD's in my rig. I want the SSD to have Windows, SWTOR and few other programs and everything else saved to the HDD's. Being that Windows and all my programs are already on my existing HDD C:\ drive, what would the easiest way to add a SSD to my system?

Anyone?
 

chaosblade

Unconfirmed Member

Reinstalling altogether is recommended, rather than trying to move things and piece it together, unless you move everything. Having two separate "Program Files" type directories on different HDDs isn't hard, you'll just have to manually install to the HDD when given an option of where to install.

Steam games can easily be moved to a new installation, just a matter of moving the Steamapps directory to the new Steam location. Better than redownloading them all. And you can use Steamtool or Symlink Creator to manage games between drives (the latter is useful for other things too).

Anything else will just need to be reinstalled since that's easier than dealing with countless registry edits. Basic programs are easy to do with Ninite, but since that doesn't give you any install options everything will be installed to the default location (so, on the SSD).
 

Deadly

Member
Okay how do you guys sort your cords from the power supply so nicely? Seriously mine was such a wreck I could barely pull out my video card.
 

mkenyon

Banned
Okay how do you guys sort your cords from the power supply so nicely? Seriously mine was such a wreck I could barely pull out my video card.
Taking time, patientce, zip ties, and the right case. 600T makes it easy to do an install that clean.
 

Nekrono

Member
Is there a good program that measures my processor temperature and gives me an "average" reading?

I'm trying to figure what my average temp is while gaming not just my lowest/highest.
 

mkenyon

Banned
Is there a good program that measures my processor temperature and gives me an "average" reading?

I'm trying to figure what my average temp is while gaming not just my lowest/highest.
Not off the top of my head. It's not really an important metric though, which is why it's not really out there. I'm sure there are some advanced programs that track constant temp and store all the data over a given period.
 

chaosblade

Unconfirmed Member
Is there a good program that measures my processor temperature and gives me an "average" reading?

I'm trying to figure what my average temp is while gaming not just my lowest/highest.

I think Speedfan has this if you leave the program running. Has a graph section, not necessarily an average, but should give you an idea. Afterburner will do the same for GPUs.

But average doesn't really matter as long as your max temps aren't too high.
 

Kiyamon

Member
More dumb questions:

I have my computer pretty much built... just waiting for the videocard to come in probably on Wednesday. The computer is up and running as the MB has basic video... actually does not look bad.

Well this was the first time I have installed a CPU and used thermal compound. From what I have seen my BIOS states the CPU stays at around 28-31 (C*). When I look at each of the individual cores, one of them is running a range of 2-5 degrees warmer. Is this normal? How does one know if only one of the cores is overheating? I am just being a bit paranoid since this was my first experience with thermal paste (used Artic Sliver Ceramique).

Thanks in advance.

• Intel Core i5-2500K Sandy Bridge 3.3GHz (3.7GHz Turbo Boost) LGA 1155 95W Quad-Core Desktop Processor Intel HD Graphics 3000 BX80623I52500K - $205
• COOLER MASTER Hyper 212 Plus RR-B10-212P-G1 "Heatpipe Direct Contact" Long Life Sleeve 120mm CPU Cooler Compatible Intel Core i5 & Intel Core i7 - $25
• GIGABYTE GA-Z68A-D3H-B3 LGA 1155 Intel Z68 HDMI SATA 6Gb/s USB 3.0 ATX Intel Motherboard - $115
• EVGA SuperClocked 01G-P3-1563-AR GeForce GTX 560 Ti (Fermi) 1GB 256-bit GDDR5 PCI Express 2.0 x16 HDCP Ready SLI Support Video Card - $220 AR
• Rosewill CHALLENGER Black Gaming ATX Mid Tower Computer Case, comes with Three Fans-1x Front Blue LED 120mm Fan, 1x Top 140mm Fan, 1x Rear 120mm Fan, option Fans-2x Side 120mm Fan - $43
• Seagate Barracuda 1 TB 7200 RPM 3.5" Hard Drive - converted external!
• CORSAIR Enthusiast Series TX650 V2 650W ATX12V v2.31/ EPS12V v2.92 80 PLUS BRONZE Certified Active PFC High Performance Power Supply - $60 AR
• G.SKILL Ripjaws Series 8GB (2 x 4GB) 240-Pin DDR3 SDRAM DDR3 1600 (PC3 12800) Desktop Memory Model F3-12800CL9D-8GBRL - $30
• Asus 24x DRW-24B1ST/BLK/B/AS DVD+/-R Burner - $18
• Windows 7 Pro - $120
 

zulfate

Member
hola pc GAF, i was wondering whats a good computer case that is easy to carry kinda like with a handle or something, but not mini itx small or anything as i am a bit scared to work with those types just yet. its for my GF so maybe something a bit lightweight? i dont even know were to begin to look for something like that. thanks alot guys.
 

Hazaro

relies on auto-aim
Nice looking new build. All parts get approved by me.
I had someone buy a Sabertooth for the same reason and got to see it in person. Very nice.
More dumb questions:

I have my computer pretty much built... just waiting for the videocard to come in probably on Wednesday. The computer is up and running as the MB has basic video... actually does not look bad.

Well this was the first time I have installed a CPU and used thermal compound. From what I have seen my BIOS states the CPU stays at around 28-31 (C*). When I look at each of the individual cores, one of them is running a range of 2-5 degrees warmer. Is this normal? How does one know if only one of the cores is overheating? I am just bein a bit paranoid since this was my first experience with thermal paste (used Artic Sliver Ceramique).

Thanks in advance.
Normal to vary. Good idle temps.
hola pc GAF, i was wondering whats a good computer case that is easy to carry kinda like with a handle or something, but not mini itx small or anything as i am a bit scared to work with those types just yet. its for my GF so maybe something a bit lightweight? i dont even know were to begin to look for something like that. thanks alot guys.
Ones off the top of my head are the CM Storm Scout and the Lanboy.
I'm sure there are better options though.
 

Nekrono

Member
I think Speedfan has this if you leave the program running. Has a graph section, not necessarily an average, but should give you an idea. Afterburner will do the same for GPUs.

But average doesn't really matter as long as your max temps aren't too high.

Alright I'll try it out, thanks!.
 

Negaiido

Member
Yes, you can switch to AHCI. I've heard it's not "safe" and can result in instability but it's a simply registry change. I accidentally installed in IDE mode and made the adjustment myself, and haven't had any problems.

Try this, looks like the right instructions.
http://forums.pcper.com/showthread.php?t=444831



Make sure you have the updated firmware (0009 added a decent speed increase, not sure if there is anything newer), and make sure you're on AHCI and not IDE. 3Gb/s shouldn't limit that drive much, and 64GB is naturally slower than 128GB due to how SSDs work. If you've done that, you're speed is probably where it should be.

Thanks for the explanation :)
I've changed something in my bios named SATA3 mode and turned that into ACHI. I have normal SATA Mode and SATA3 so didnt really know what it meant but it helped my performance a bit. :) I already had the newest firmware.
 
So I want to put together the budget rig in the OT but none of the recommended "places to shop" in the US assemble. Can anyone recommend me a place that does? And would be affordable?
 

chaosblade

Unconfirmed Member
So I want to put together the budget rig in the OT but none of the recommended "places to shop" in the US assemble. Can anyone recommend me a place that does? And would be affordable?

It's implied that you do it yourself. I thought NCIX had an option to do it for $50, but it might only be for Canada.

If not, you might have to go with something like CyberPower, but that will probably cost even more.
 

Kadey

Mrs. Harvey
Looks like setting the page file is very critical. After changing it, I've gotten all these errors. Mainly display driver failing and random reboots along. All I did was set it back to auto and everything seems thus fine so far.

Because of that looks like I do have to get another SSD. That Crucial M4 128GB with a transfer kit looks enticing.
 

chaosblade

Unconfirmed Member
Looks like setting the page file is very critical. After changing it, I've gotten all these errors. Mainly display driver failing and random reboots along. All I did was set it back to auto and everything seems thus fine so far.

Because of that looks like I do have to get another SSD. That Crucial M4 128GB with a transfer kit looks enticing.

Did you disable it or just lower it? Since you have a ton of RAM, try moving your page file to your HDD.
 

Moppet13

Member
So I want to put together the budget rig in the OT but none of the recommended "places to shop" in the US assemble. Can anyone recommend me a place that does? And would be affordable?

Why not assemble it yourself? It's really quite fun and easy after you do it your first time.
 

Hazaro

relies on auto-aim
It's implied that you do it yourself. I thought NCIX had an option to do it for $50, but it might only be for Canada.

If not, you might have to go with something like CyberPower, but that will probably cost even more.
I don't think NCIX.US has the option, or at least I don't believe it did when they opened their US location.
 

Celcius

°Temp. member
Do you guys think there's any chance of nvidia dropping the prices on 3gb gtx 580's any time soon?
 

chaosblade

Unconfirmed Member
Lower it. But it was still much more than the lowest setting. It will not let me completely disable the one for my SSD.

Strange, it should. This is what mine looks like.

jYjDUwylhnzL1.png
 

longdi

Banned
I will lower page file, not disable it.
Microsoft dont recommend you to disable it.
You can try disabling hibernating and delete the existing hibernated files. it will free up a lot more space like 15gb or so.
 

noire

Unconfirmed Member
Do I need to enable something to get Dolby/dts output from my sapphire 6950? Receiver is just showing PCM.
 

chaosblade

Unconfirmed Member
I will lower page file, not disable it.
Microsoft dont recommend you to disable it.
You can try disabling hibernating and delete the existing hibernated files. it will free up a lot more space like 15gb or so.

Disabling it can cause all kinds of problems, and Kadey has 16GB RAM IIRC, so the system default page file is massive.

Just moving it off the SSD to another drive is fine though, especially when you have a bunch of RAM so the page file won't be used much.
 

longdi

Banned
what i would do if you have 2 ssd, yeah you can move the pagefile away from your c:\ but i will still put a small amount like 2-4gb on the c:\ as pagefile. that is what microsoft recommends, windows programs will always hit the pagefile sometimes regardless of how many extra ram you have idling.

if you have only 1 ssd than no point moving page file to a mechanical hdd.

deleting hibernated files will save more ssd space and safer.
 

aktham

Member
I posted this in the tech support GAF thread, but I figured this might be a better place to ask.

I have a Dell XPS L502X laptop. I upgraded the HDD to a Vertex 2 SSD and did a clean Windows 7 x64 Ultimate. I did a few SSD tweaks and updated windows with the latest updates from microsoft via "Windows Update". Everything was great.

The problem is now I upgraded to a

Crucial m4 128gb firmware 0009 (latest firmware)

I did another clean install. I did a few SSD tweaks and used windows update to get the latest updates. Now I have random stuttering while streaming a video. I tried using different browsers, but I get the same result. I also get the random stuttering while playing games. It makes a loud noise in my speakers.

The funny thing is that I have the exact same Crucial SSD on my desktop with the same tweaks and it's working perfectly fine there (games and streaming). It has the same benchmark scores, and no stuttering on the desktop.

I did a lot of research and came up with this. Updating to the latest intel drivers seems to make the stuttering even more frequent/worse :(

http://forum.crucial.com/t5/Solid-S...28gb-making-all-game-stutter/m-p/76054#M23251

Help please (suggestions) and thanks
 

mkenyon

Banned
I don't think that is SSD related at all. Benchmarks are normal on it?

Try sweeping all chipset drivers and install from the last known working drivers.
 

MisterNoisy

Member
hola pc GAF, i was wondering whats a good computer case that is easy to carry kinda like with a handle or something, but not mini itx small or anything as i am a bit scared to work with those types just yet. its for my GF so maybe something a bit lightweight? i dont even know were to begin to look for something like that. thanks alot guys.

I'm a big fan of the NZXT Vulcan - I've got my HTPC/LAN party box in one. The only real downside (aside from the appearance, which is subjective) is that it limits you to micro ATX - if you want to mount a full ATX board, the Cooler Master Storm Scout is a solid pick.
 

aktham

Member
I don't think that is SSD related at all. Benchmarks are normal on it?

Try sweeping all chipset drivers and install from the last known working drivers.

Well after a clean windows install a lot of drivers will be missing in the device manager. The latest intel chipset drivers take care of the "!" for SM bus controller and "PCI device". Should I just skip the intel chipset driver? I appreciate the help.
 

Shambles

Member
I posted this in the tech support GAF thread, but I figured this might be a better place to ask.

I have a Dell XPS L502X laptop. I upgraded the HDD to a Vertex 2 SSD and did a clean Windows 7 x64 Ultimate. I did a few SSD tweaks and updated windows with the latest updates from microsoft via "Windows Update". Everything was great.

The problem is now I upgraded to a

Crucial m4 128gb firmware 0009 (latest firmware)

I did another clean install. I did a few SSD tweaks and used windows update to get the latest updates. Now I have random stuttering while streaming a video. I tried using different browsers, but I get the same result. I also get the random stuttering while playing games. It makes a loud noise in my speakers.

The funny thing is that I have the exact same Crucial SSD on my desktop with the same tweaks and it's working perfectly fine there (games and streaming). It has the same benchmark scores, and no stuttering on the desktop.

I did a lot of research and came up with this. Updating to the latest intel drivers seems to make the stuttering even more frequent/worse :(

http://forum.crucial.com/t5/Solid-S...28gb-making-all-game-stutter/m-p/76054#M23251

Help please (suggestions) and thanks

Is probably just a lemon. Exchange it for another one.
 

mkenyon

Banned
Well after a clean windows install a lot of drivers will be missing in the device manager. The latest intel chipset drivers take care of the "!" for SM bus controller and "PCI device". Should I just skip the intel chipset driver? I appreciate the help.
Do you remember which drivers you had installed last time?

Generally the support downloads allow you to select from a range of versions. Try to find the versions that would have been installed last time when it was all working properly. Make sure that all drivers are taken care of. The stuttering issue seems like a chipset/integrated graphics type driver that is missing, corrupted, or not working properly.
 

aktham

Member
Do you remember which drivers you had installed last time?

Generally the support downloads allow you to select from a range of versions. Try to find the versions that would have been installed last time when it was all working properly. Make sure that all drivers are taken care of. The stuttering issue seems like a chipset/integrated graphics type driver that is missing, corrupted, or not working properly.

The only time it worked properly was with the original HDD and the Vertex 2 SSD. Using those same (downloaded from dell) intel chipset drivers makes the M4 stutter. Installing the latest chipset drivers from intel on a fresh copy of windows causes even more stuttering than usual. I'll try it again after work today and not install the chipset drivers and see what happens. The SSD tweaks that I normally use

Enable Write Caching
Disable indexing
Disable defragmentation
Disable Superfetch
Disable Prefetch
Disable Hibernate
Make sure TRIM is enabled

none of those should cause any problems, correct?

Edit:
Freshinstallwithoutinteldrivers.png

Here's what it looks like after a fresh install. I did install all the drivers other than the intel chipset driver. I also haven't done any of the above SSD tweaks. I'm trying to isolate the problem :/
 

Owensboro

Member
Hey PC GAF. I'm looking at getting a new computer in the coming months and was looking for some good websites that I could just straight up buy one from. I know that I could save "a ton of money" if i just build it myself, but I'd rather save a ton of time. You see, last time I built my own PC (my second such attempt) I ended up spending an entire week figuring out why nothing would work. Keep in mind, this was also when I was still in college and had a ton of free time to do something like that.

So, I'm looking for companies online that you fine folks could vouch for. Are there any that don't completely rip you off a la Alienware?
 
Hey PC GAF. I'm looking at getting a new computer in the coming months and was looking for some good websites that I could just straight up buy one from. I know that I could save "a ton of money" if i just build it myself, but I'd rather save a ton of time. You see, last time I built my own PC (my second such attempt) I ended up spending an entire week figuring out why nothing would work. Keep in mind, this was also when I was still in college and had a ton of free time to do something like that.

So, I'm looking for companies online that you fine folks could vouch for. Are there any that don't completely rip you off a la Alienware?
Have you read the OP?
There are builds you can use as a guideline (tweak where needed), along with links to sites that will construct it for you.
 

scy

Member
So I'm in the process of RMAing my M4 and wondering if there's any ~$100 range SSDs I should consider for outright replacing it? Need a temporary solution while it's out anyway so might as well consider the replacement option in general.

As a heads up to other M4 owners, there's a few of us with them failing around the ~5200 runtime mark with hourly BSODs; no official statement for Crucial on it though so it's "possibly" a fluke.
 
What started as me upgrading the GPU in my prebuilt HP (m9500t) from 2009 has turned into me building a completely new PC. This thread has been quite helpful, but I have some questions. Here's what I have so far:

Case: Lian Li Lancool PC-K58W
CPU i7-2600K
CPU Cooler: Cooler Master Hyper 212+
Motherboard:
RAM:
GPU:
Storage:
SSD: Intel 320 Series 120 GB SSD
Power Supply: Corsair Enthusiast Series 850-Watt
OS: Windows 7 Home Premium 64-bit OEM (not yet purchased)

My questions:

1. Motherboard. I need a motherboard with two PS/2 ports and at least one IEEE 1394 port and so I'm considering either the ASRock P67 Extreme4 or ASRock P67 Extreme6. What are the important difference between the two? Only the Extreme6 specifies that it supports Turbo Boost 2.0, K-Series unlocked CPU, and Hyper-Threading, but I don't know if that means the other board doesn't support those things. The price difference is only $10.

2. Storage. While watching Tested.com build Jeff Gerstmann's PC they warned that reusing hard drives from old PCs is a bad idea. I was planning to reuse my 640GB 7200 rpm (bought in 2009), because although it would be nice to upgrade to a 1-2TB internal drive I'd hate to buy one now at the inflated prices. Is this a bad idea? If so, this 2TB Western Digital drive is at about $178 shipped and comes with an $80 label machine that I'd sell on eBay, making the total cost of the drive around $100; would you recommend this drive?

3. GPU. I'm deciding between a 560 Ti, 560 Ti 448, 570, or 580. My monitor is 1920x1080, and I want to be able to max Skyrim (which I think any of these cards can do) and hopefully max (or nearly max) Battlefield 3. Also, I want to be come as close to maxing new releases across the next few years as possible. $500 for a 580 is more than I want to spend, but I don't want to be disappointed when I can't even max BF3 let alone next year's new releases. What makes the most sense?

4. Optical Drive. I shouldn't have any problem reusing the LightScribe 16X max. DVD+/-R/RW SuperMulti drive from my current PC, right?

Thanks!
 

Owensboro

Member
·feist·;33939384 said:
Have you read the OP?
There are builds you can use as a guideline (tweak where needed), along with links to sites that will construct it for you.

Yes. I went through the first two posts and only saw links to 3 sites (AVA Direct, Falcon Northwest, and MAINGEAR), but I'm still wondering if them "custom building" is as big a ripoff as Alienware. While I do value my time over my money, I'd prefer to not pay 50% markup.

I'm still in the process of reading through absolutely everything else, but it's just so much information that it's going to take me a while. Like I said, I've been out of the game since College. I need to read back up on all this stuff :).

Thanks for the help everyone. This is an amazing thread.
 
So I'm in the process of RMAing my M4 and wondering if there's any ~$100 range SSDs I should consider for outright replacing it? Need a temporary solution while it's out anyway so might as well consider the replacement option in general.

As a heads up to other M4 owners, there's a few of us with them failing around the ~5200 runtime mark with hourly BSODs; no official statement for Crucial on it though so it's "possibly" a fluke.
Samsung 830. 64GB ~$110.
Good performance from one of the only companies whose reliability has been Intel-like, or better. Alternatively, where performance and reliability/customer service are concerned: Intel 510, Corsair Force GT, Intel 320. 320 is the slowest of the lot.

If you had more time, the Intel 520 should be high on that list, but they're still working out the kinks.


What started as me upgrading the GPU in my prebuilt HP (m9500t) from 2009 has turned into me building a completely new PC. This thread has been quite helpful, but I have some questions. Here's what I have so far:

Case: Lian Li Lancool PC-K58W
CPU i7-2600K
CPU Cooler: Cooler Master Hyper 212+
Motherboard:
RAM:
GPU:
Storage:
SSD: Intel 320 Series 120 GB SSD
Power Supply: Corsair Enthusiast Series 850-Watt
OS: Windows 7 Home Premium 64-bit OEM (not yet purchased)

My questions:
1) Both support those. 2) Use the old HDD for storage. Wait for prices to drop, then replace. 3) Not a good time to spend ~$350+. New GPUs slowly surfacing across next 1-3 months. 4) Yes.


Yes. I went through the first two posts and only saw links to 3 sites (AVA Direct, Falcon Northwest, and MAINGEAR), but I'm still wondering if them "custom building" is as big a ripoff as Alienware. While I do value my time over my money, I'd prefer to not pay 50% markup.

I'm still in the process of reading through absolutely everything else, but it's just so much information that it's going to take me a while. Like I said, I've been out of the game since College. I need to read back up on all this stuff :).

Thanks for the help everyone. This is an amazing thread.
The three above, and others like CyberPower, all have a healthy profit built into the final price, and often give you limited options. Retailers like Micro Center, and NCIX will assemble for you, for a low cost, based on whatever you choose from their inventory. Contact MC and NCIX US to see what your choices are locally.

Otherwise, pay the built in profit, or order your parts, and find a reputable builder (company, or individual) who's local, or will ship/travel inexpensively.
 

Zyzyxxz

Member
Anybody want a ATI 5850? Selling my "Like New In Box" condition one for $110 barely used and was tested as the 2nd card in a Crossfire setup.
 
Cooler Master Cosmos 2

JyStD.jpg
kOd38.jpg


Videos:
Cooler Master Cosmos II Case
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=LkSMR-ZxEHw

[Cowcot TV] Présentation boitier Cooler Master Cosmos II
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=jXUAXhHgtlA


Pics and Info:
http://coolermaster.de/product.php?product_id=6767
http://www.coolermaster-usa.com/landing/cosmos2/

Cooler Master Cosmos II Review
http://www.kitguru.net/components/cases/zardon/cooler-master-cosmos-ii-review/

Cooler Master Cosmos II Case Review
http://www.hardwareheaven.com/reviews/1367/pg1/cooler-master-cosmos-ii-case-review-introduction.html

Specifications
Color Midnight Black
Material Exterior: Aluminum, mesh, synthetics;
Interior: Steel-alloy, Synthetics, Rubber
Dimensions 344 (W) x 704 (H) x 664 (D) mm / 13.5 x 27.7 x 26.1 inches
Weight 22 kg / 48.5 lb
M / B Type Micro-ATX, ATX, E-ATX, ATX-XL, Extended ATX, ATX
5:25 Drive Bay 3
3.5 DRIVE Bay 13 (2 from X-dock, middle cage for 5 HDDs, bottom cage for 6 HDDs)
2.5 "Drive Bay 11 (converted from 3.5 "bay)
I / O Panel 2 x USB 3.0, USB 2.0 x 4, e-SATA x 1, Audio In and Out
Expansion Slot 10 +1
Cooling System Front: 200mm LED fan x 1, 700 RPM, 19 dBA
(Converted from 120/140mm x 1)
Top: 120mm black fan x 1, 1200 RPM, 17 dBA
(Converted from 200mm fan x 1/140mm fan x 2 / 120 fa
Rear: 140mm fan x 1, 1200 RPM, 19 dBA
Side: 120mm fan x 2 (optional)
HDD: Mid.HDD: 120x25mm Fan x 1 (optional)
HDD Bottom: 120mm fan x 2, 1200 RPM, 17 dBA
Power Supply ATX PS2 / EPS 12V
Maximum Compatibility CPU cooler height: 190mm / 7:48 inch
Graphics card length: 385 mm / inch 15:15
 

Sober

Member
Hey PC-GAF, question about my power supply:

I have an ULTRA LS500

I am actually looking at just getting a HD 6870 since it's a couple bucks more from a 6850. I might need to get an extra (or two) molex-to-pci-e 6-pins, but it has 28A on the +12V rail; everywhere I can find says the 6870 goes to 151W max on load so that should be plenty right?

I also plan to get a Phenom II X4 955 BE, is that going to affect my power consumption much more? (going from a Phenom X4 9600 - it's 95W vs the 125W)
 

TheExodu5

Banned
Cooler Master continues to impress with their case design. That's one great looking full tower (both artistically and functionally).
 

RedSwirl

Junior Member
Is there any indication of what games typically get higher GPU temperatures than others? For some reason Red Faction Guerrilla get's my my temps around 90C whereas Skyrim and MW3 typically stay in the 70's.
 
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