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"I need a New PC!" 2012 Thread. 22nm+28nm, Tri-Gate, and reading the OP. [Part 1]

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For a small but annoying reason, I'm considering replacing my motherboard, Asus P8Z77-V, with the P8Z77-V Pro. If I do that, will I need to reinstall Windows and everything from scratch, or should I be able to just swap out mobos, plug everything in and boot as normal? It looks like the hardware and onboard devices are almost all the same on the Pro version (the only addition is an extra AsMedia USB3.0 chip).

Rest of the system is 3570K, Crucial m4 SSD, WD 1.5TB Caviar Black, 8GB Gskill DDR3.
 

MrBig

Member
For a small but annoying reason, I'm considering replacing my motherboard, Asus P8Z77-V, with the P8Z77-V Pro. If I do that, will I need to reinstall Windows and everything from scratch, or should I be able to just swap out mobos, plug everything in and boot as normal? It looks like the hardware and onboard devices are almost all the same on the Pro version (the only addition is an extra AsMedia USB3.0 chip).

Rest of the system is 3570K, Crucial m4 SSD, WD 1.5TB Caviar Black, 8GB Gskill DDR3.

I've seen other people post that they were able to just plug everything back in and Windows didn't say anything. Why are you going to the Pro btw? I just ordered the Pro a couple days ago because it was the same price as the -V with a coupon on newegg, but I thought most of the changes were superficial.
Also, did you try out the wifi on the -v?
 

kennah

Member
Any Canucks have any experience ordering from Memory Express? Just noticed they not only price match, but beat prices by 25% of the difference which could really come in handy for a full build (depending on shipping).

Just so you know, it's 25% of the _difference_, not 25% off of the total price. So if it's something that they are 5$ more expensive on, they will match it plus take another 25% of 5$ off, so another $1.25.

Other than that. Good place. I get most of my stuff from them these days.
 

mkenyon

Banned
For a small but annoying reason, I'm considering replacing my motherboard, Asus P8Z77-V, with the P8Z77-V Pro. If I do that, will I need to reinstall Windows and everything from scratch, or should I be able to just swap out mobos, plug everything in and boot as normal? It looks like the hardware and onboard devices are almost all the same on the Pro version (the only addition is an extra AsMedia USB3.0 chip).

Rest of the system is 3570K, Crucial m4 SSD, WD 1.5TB Caviar Black, 8GB Gskill DDR3.
It is always a good idea to reformat between major hardware changes. Always.
 

Wyeth

Member
I'm going with an i7 3770k and an Asus P8Z77- What's the easiest and most stable way for me to do RAID-1? Buy a different motherboard with Raid integrated (any good ones?) or buy a separate controller card? Any recommendations there?

I want a 1tb Raid array for data backup and then a 256gb SSD for boot and scratch disk.

edit: On closer inspection does the P8z77 do Raid 1? I can't tell. One spec suggests it does.
 

Tendo

Member
560 definitely not, I don't think it'd be much of an improvement over the 260 either. They pulled some really crappy marketing schemes with the 560s. 560 = total garbage, 560Ti = great card, 560Ti 448 Core = 570 with some stuff disabled.

The ti seems to be the closest to my price range

What is the major advantage to going 2gig over 1gig besides spending ~50 more bucks?
 

mkenyon

Banned
The ti seems to be the closest to my price range

What is the major advantage to going 2gig over 1gig besides spending ~50 more bucks?
If you use lots of AA and/or super high res, you need more VRAM to use. It's like regular RAM, it only matters if you run out. There aren't any games AFAIK that use more than 1GB at 1080p.

*edit*
Thanks Exodu5!

How about Metro or Witcher 2?
Can anyone look over the parts that I've thrown together on Neweggt:

http://secure.newegg.com/WishList/PublicWishDetail.aspx?WishListNumber=14363089

I'm just wondering if I've done anything stupid, mismatched something, made a poor choice, or am missing something. To my knowledge, I just need to add a hard drive (and maybe some kind of cooling system?).

Some things are out of stock, and I'm not going to be buying this right now anyway so I'll just swap things out when I'm actually able to start buying. I just want to know if I've got the right idea.
Looks good. I can never remember if it is the LE or LX that has a really gimped overclocking ability. I think it's the LE though.
 

Boss Man

Member
Can anyone look over the parts that I've thrown together on Neweggt:

http://secure.newegg.com/WishList/PublicWishDetail.aspx?WishListNumber=14363089

I'm just wondering if I've done anything stupid, mismatched something, made a poor choice, or am missing something. To my knowledge, I just need to add a hard drive (and maybe some kind of cooling system?).

Some things are out of stock, and I'm not going to be buying this right now anyway so I'll just swap things out when I'm actually able to start buying. I just want to know if I've got the right idea. General suggestions are also very welcome, although I am on a budget so do it with that in mind.
 

TheExodu5

Banned
If you use lots of AA and/or super high res, you need more VRAM to use. It's like regular RAM, it only matters if you run out. There aren't any games AFAIK that use more than 1GB at 1080p.

GTA IV definitely does. BF3 also benefits greatly from the increased VRAM (even my GTX 570 had some noticeable VRAM swapping going on at times).
 

MisterNoisy

Member
Can anyone look over the parts that I've thrown together on Neweggt:

http://secure.newegg.com/WishList/PublicWishDetail.aspx?WishListNumber=14363089

I'm just wondering if I've done anything stupid, mismatched something, made a poor choice, or am missing something. To my knowledge, I just need to add a hard drive (and maybe some kind of cooling system?).

Some things are out of stock, and I'm not going to be buying this right now anyway so I'll just swap things out when I'm actually able to start buying. I just want to know if I've got the right idea. General suggestions are also very welcome, although I am on a budget so do it with that in mind.

Any particular reason you're going with the 650TX instead of the 650TXV2? There's a $20 difference between the two and I've yet to hear anything bad about the V2.
 

Boss Man

Member
Any particular reason you're going with the 650TX instead of the 650TXV2? There's a $20 difference between the two and I've yet to hear anything bad about the V2.
Nope, I just sort of looked at reviews / prices. Thank you.

I'm going to put quite a bit more thought into it before I actually buy anything, I'm just worried that there are things I'm not considering or something.
 

colinp

Banned
usb.jpg


Is this front chassis USB cord supposed to be plugged into...

usb2.jpg


One of these? The cord is just four pin, while the males are 9-pin, right? Do I need some sort of transfer cable or something?




Is this the first PC you ever built?

Yep!
 

clav

Member
Yes.

Traditionally, front USB ports are in pairs, but your case only has one USB port. That means, your plug will only take either the upper or lower half of the pin port. You won't need a cable adapter.

Just be sure the last pin (with no wire) is on the right side (assuming you are reading the motherboard lettering right side up).
 

colinp

Banned
Yes.

Traditionally, front USB ports are in pairs, but your case only has one USB port. That means, your plug will only take either the upper or lower half of the pin port. You won't need a cable adapter.

Just be sure the last pin (with no wire) is on the right side (assuming you are reading the motherboard lettering right side up).

Great, thanks! My chassis also has a USB3 port on the front, alas my MB doesn't have a plug for USB3 (but has two USB3 built in to the back, so eh life goes on).
 
I've seen other people post that they were able to just plug everything back in and Windows didn't say anything. Why are you going to the Pro btw? I just ordered the Pro a couple days ago because it was the same price as the -V with a coupon on newegg, but I thought most of the changes were superficial.
Also, did you try out the wifi on the -v?

Pro has 4 fan connectors, non-Pro has 3. I thought I could plug in my 4th fan into CPU_OPT, but it just runs at full speed and can't be controlled separately, so I have negative pressure.

I tried out the Wi-fi thing that lets you use your smartphone to control the computer, kinda cool.
 

clav

Member
Great, thanks! My chassis also has a USB3 port on the front, alas my MB doesn't have a plug for USB3 (but has two USB3 built in to the back, so eh life goes on).

Those pictures you showed us are for the USB 2.0 port, right?

I'm not familiar with the pinouts for the front USB 3.0 port (yet). I believe there are a lot more pins this time around.
 

MisterNoisy

Member
usb.jpg


Is this front chassis USB cord supposed to be plugged into...

usb2.jpg


One of these? The cord is just four pin, while the males are 9-pin, right? Do I need some sort of transfer cable or something?

The 9-pin USB motherboard header is actually 2 of those 4-pin layouts stacked side by side in the same orientation, with a dead pin to make sure you connect it properly. You can connect that to the same header - just make sure you match the orientation:

NjlFy.png
 

colinp

Banned
Worked like a charm! Thank you claviertekky & MisterNoisy!

Incidentally, this is what a USB3 cable looks like if you're curious:

usb3.jpg
 

mkenyon

Banned
Great, thanks! My chassis also has a USB3 port on the front, alas my MB doesn't have a plug for USB3 (but has two USB3 built in to the back, so eh life goes on).
You certain? I think all ASUS Z68/Z77's have USB 3.0 right there next to the 24 pin.

XnsN2.png
 

Jackben

bitch I'm taking calls.
So all my parts are here and I've got a solid 6 hours of uninterruptible time to do whatever I want...

but I'm going I wait to build until tomorrow when I can put it together with my friend.

Too afraid of messing something up if I attempt by myself =x
 

mkenyon

Banned
As long as you make sure to wear wool socks and a knitted sweater, hopefully during very humid/stormy weather, nothing can go wrong.

This is in case the sarcasm wasn't apparent

Rule #1 of computer building is to stop being afraid of it. If it isn't gold (fingers on RAM and videocards where they slot in) or the CPU itself, everything is really durable. You aren't going to break it!
 
I personally have not used them, but people on Red Flag Deals always use their price matching, and I have never seen anyone complaining about the store or its policies on that site...for what its worth.

Just so you know, it's 25% of the _difference_, not 25% off of the total price. So if it's something that they are 5$ more expensive on, they will match it plus take another 25% of 5$ off, so another $1.25.

Other than that. Good place. I get most of my stuff from them these days.

Thanks, guys, sounds like a safe bet.
 
None of the OP cases available?

500W should suffice. I dont know what kind of a PSU is in it, so it might be a bad one.

I admit to knowing very little about this company, but in general with cases with Power supplies built in, the power supply is crap. You dont want your shit fucked up, the power supply is the most important part. Especially if you p,an on over clocking. Begetter to cut back elsewhere. You can get a decent power supply for around $35.
 

Gr1mLock

Passing metallic gas
Son of a fucking whore. I got a notification from new egg that they had 680's in stock, literally 4 minutes later when i went to check out they sold out. WTF!
 

Tendo

Member
Just ordered the "Enhanced" set up from the OP, with these differences:

The Samsung RAM talked about in the last page or so:
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16820147094

This EVGA GTX 570 that just went on sale:
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16814130593


I should still be fine with the 550w PSU, right?

Thank you for posting this! Was looking at cards the past few days and it is in my price range and what was suggested to me. Gonna order one right away!
 
Thank you for posting this! Was looking at cards the past few days and it is in my price range and what was suggested to me. Gonna order one right away!



fist bump


I read it's a step up from 560ti mentioned in the OP and the sale price made the price difference negligible, seemed like a good deal. I had good experiences with EVGA before too.
 

Tendo

Member
fist bump


I read it's a step up from 560ti mentioned in the OP and the sale price made the price difference negligible, seemed like a good deal. I had good experiences with EVGA before too.

All my cards have been EVGA - never had issues so I've never felt a reason to switch. Just ordered mine. Feels good to upgrade finally.
 
I have a quick question:

I am putting together my build right now and my case came with a fan. the cable that comes from it is a tiny 4 pin mobo connecter a 3 pin molex and a 4 pin molex. (male and female)

can I just hook a lead from my PSU into the 3 pin to run the fan?
 

MrBig

Member
I have a quick question:

I am putting together my build right now and my case came with a fan. the cable that comes from it is a tiny 4 pin mobo connecter a 3 pin molex and a 4 pin molex. (male and female)

can I just hook a lead from my PSU into the 3 pin to run the fan?

Yes you can do that if there is no where to plug it into your mobo, it will just run at full blast as opposed to being controllable.
 
Yes you can do that if there is no where to plug it into your mobo, it will just run at full blast as opposed to being controllable.

thank you!

one more quick question. I am waiting for my ram to come in the mail tomorrow so my entire computer is built without any ram. I know it wont post but should it give me error beeps??

when I use the power button the fans spin for a second then just go off.

thanks.
 

Hawk269

Member
I think I want to go "real" water cooling for my rig. I have been doing some reading and looking into some stuff and just need to get some feedback on how easy it is to do and if I am selecting apropriate parts or if I am missing something. Here is what I got so far, with links if any can please check it out for me.

Radiator:
http://www.frozencpu.com/products/1...or_-_11_FPI_-_Black_HX-360HL_No_Nozzles_.html

Reservoir/Pump Combo Unit:
http://www.frozencpu.com/products/1..._Reservoir_-_w_D5_Variant_Pump_Installed.html

Cpu Block:
http://www.frozencpu.com/products/7...5_1156_1366_2011_939_940_754_AM2_AM2_AM3.html

Tubing:
http://www.frozencpu.com/products/1...lamps_Tube_Cutter_12ID_x_34OD_-_Clear_UV.html

Coolant:
http://koolance.com/index.php?route=product/product&path=0_58&product_id=489

GPU Block:
http://koolance.com/index.php?route=product/product&product_id=2059

I know I need fittings that connect to the parts, but kind of unclear on which ones I need. There are some called barbs and nozzles, which look the same, but unsure.

Thanks to anyone that is willing to help..this will be my first water anything other than using a H100. Also wondering if what I listed above is enough to water cool both the CPU and 2xGPU's.
 

mkenyon

Banned
YGPM!

To answer some of your questions:

1) This is directly tied to tubing and preference. I like barbs because they're a lot cleaner and super easy to work with. Done properly, you essentially bond the plastic to the fitting. Doesn't come off unless you take a blade to it.

2) Not even close. I'd lean towards 2x360mm and 1x240 at the minimum. The rad you listed has pretty limited cooling potential, with low FPI and a thin profile. Aside from the Alphacool Nexxos rads, the general rule of thumb is - High fin density thin radiators = low fin density thick radiators, but you need to use high RPM fans to get there. Low FPI means that a slower moving fan will be able to cool more since there is less resistance. When you have low FPI on a thin radiator, you severely limit cooling potential.
 
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