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"I need a New PC!" 2012 Thread. 22nm+28nm, Tri-Gate, and reading the OP. [Part 1]
- Thread starter Hazaro
- Start date
- Status
well this thing died on me
Granted I hadn't used it in forever, but I find a good opportunity and..nada. Apparently they easily blow a fuse. :|
Open it up and weld over the fuse so the circuit connects again.
I have absolutely no tools to let me do this. I know I did some research after looking for a solution.
AwesomeSauce
MagsMoonshine
Yes, it matters.
From what I've seen, you can definitely sell it for more than a 6950, but less than a 6970. Not sure how much they go for used, but a 6950 has been on sale a couple of times of late for less than 200$
Tea and Toast
Member
Anyone know where to buy mechanical keyboards in the UK? I want a small one with blank keys but they seem to be impossible to get hold of over here. Hmm.
Amazon maybe.
What model? The Das Keyboard Ultimate can be bought via Amazon UK?
Hero_of_the_Day
Member
Thinking about dumping my Sli 560 Ti's for a 670. Figure down the line I can pick up a second. Good/bad idea? I like Evga but I've heard shit about some of theirs failing, the fuck is up with that?
Trojita
Rapid Response Threadmaker
I'm trying to decide whether or not to get one of those 27 in Korean IPS Displays, the 27 in Apple Cinema Display, the 30 in Dell U3011, or a 120 HZ TN Monitor for Gaming
I'm leaning on getting the 27 in Apple Cinema Display, but I'm not sure if I should wait for a potential refresh. The Dell seems nice and is bigger for the same price, but I heard the AG coating messes up some of the picture. Supposedly people see sparkles. The Korean Monitors look nice for the price, but I'm not sure I want to deal with not having a company warranty. I'm also considering getting a 120 HZ Monitor, since I heard Blurring gets drastically lowered in gaming, but I'm not sure how drastic a change it is.
My current Monitor is a Launch Dell WFP2408.
I'm leaning on getting the 27 in Apple Cinema Display, but I'm not sure if I should wait for a potential refresh. The Dell seems nice and is bigger for the same price, but I heard the AG coating messes up some of the picture. Supposedly people see sparkles. The Korean Monitors look nice for the price, but I'm not sure I want to deal with not having a company warranty. I'm also considering getting a 120 HZ Monitor, since I heard Blurring gets drastically lowered in gaming, but I'm not sure how drastic a change it is.
My current Monitor is a Launch Dell WFP2408.
Here is my final build, already bought/ordered most of the components. Any last suggestion or advice is welcomed:
PCPartPicker part list / Price breakdown by merchant / Benchmarks
CPU: Intel Core i5-3570K 3.4GHz Quad-Core Processor ($189.99 @ Microcenter)
CPU Cooler: Cooler Master Hyper 212 Plus 76.8 CFM Sleeve Bearing CPU Cooler ($19.99 @ Newegg)
Motherboard: Asus Maximus V Gene Micro ATX LGA1155 Motherboard ($199.99 @ Newegg)
Memory: G.Skill Sniper Series 8GB (2 x 4GB) DDR3-1866 Memory ($59.99 @ Newegg)
Hard Drive: Western Digital Caviar Black 2TB 3.5" 7200RPM Internal Hard Drive ($179.99 @ SuperBiiz)
Hard Drive: Samsung 830 Series 256GB 2.5" Solid State Disk ($252.88 @ B&H)
Video Card: Asus GeForce GTX 670 2GB Video Card ($437.86 @ Newegg)
Case: Silverstone TJ08B-E MicroATX Mini Tower Case ($116.06 @ Newegg)
Power Supply: SeaSonic 560W ATX12V / EPS12V Power Supply ($135.71 @ Newegg)
Optical Drive: Asus DVDE818A7T/BLK/B/GEN CD Reader, DVD Writer ($25.97 @ Newegg)
Operating System: Microsoft Windows 7 Professional SP1 (64-bit) ($136.99 @ B&H)
Total: $1755.42 (Don't mind the price*)
Also I've bought the corsair AF120 1200rpm Quiet Ed. fans, are they better used as HSFs or case fans?
*Note: I don't live in US or EU. So I've bought whatever good components that was available in my country that wasn't exaggeratedly overpriced and ordered the rest which I couldn't find.
PCPartPicker part list / Price breakdown by merchant / Benchmarks
CPU: Intel Core i5-3570K 3.4GHz Quad-Core Processor ($189.99 @ Microcenter)
CPU Cooler: Cooler Master Hyper 212 Plus 76.8 CFM Sleeve Bearing CPU Cooler ($19.99 @ Newegg)
Motherboard: Asus Maximus V Gene Micro ATX LGA1155 Motherboard ($199.99 @ Newegg)
Memory: G.Skill Sniper Series 8GB (2 x 4GB) DDR3-1866 Memory ($59.99 @ Newegg)
Hard Drive: Western Digital Caviar Black 2TB 3.5" 7200RPM Internal Hard Drive ($179.99 @ SuperBiiz)
Hard Drive: Samsung 830 Series 256GB 2.5" Solid State Disk ($252.88 @ B&H)
Video Card: Asus GeForce GTX 670 2GB Video Card ($437.86 @ Newegg)
Case: Silverstone TJ08B-E MicroATX Mini Tower Case ($116.06 @ Newegg)
Power Supply: SeaSonic 560W ATX12V / EPS12V Power Supply ($135.71 @ Newegg)
Optical Drive: Asus DVDE818A7T/BLK/B/GEN CD Reader, DVD Writer ($25.97 @ Newegg)
Operating System: Microsoft Windows 7 Professional SP1 (64-bit) ($136.99 @ B&H)
Total: $1755.42 (Don't mind the price*)
Also I've bought the corsair AF120 1200rpm Quiet Ed. fans, are they better used as HSFs or case fans?
*Note: I don't live in US or EU. So I've bought whatever good components that was available in my country that wasn't exaggeratedly overpriced and ordered the rest which I couldn't find.
Accessories Whole, selling the Crossover and other monitors, has a better warranty service than Dell or Apple. Buy two or three for the money you would waste on a cinema or U3011.
Fantastical
Death Prophet
Alright, so I talked about how I installed the stock CPU fan instead of the Cooler Master 212 Evo that I had. I have the motherboard installed into my case at this point. Do I have to take out the motherboard to install the new fan? I'm guessing the answer is yes. 
Alright, so I talked about how I installed the stock CPU fan instead of the Cooler Master 212 Evo that I had. I have the motherboard installed into my case at this point. Do I have to take out the motherboard to install the new fan? I'm guessing the answer is yes.
Depends. Most new cases have a cut-out in the motherboard panel behind the socket so you can mount a new cooler without taking out the motherboard.
Fractal available where you live?
You can use a single AF120 in the case, which will be exhaust. The intake is 180mm. They won't be of good use on the heatsink as they are designed for unobstructed CFM. The stat you want for heatsink fans is pressure, which is the AP series.
I'd also suggest to get a slightly more powerful PSU if possible, the 620.
I have the Crossover and a Samsung S23A750D side by side. For browsing, I'm really enjoying the Crossover mainly due to the resolution. The colors/picture aren't leaps and bounds better. I would never ever consider gaming on it, but I have really strict standards as far as input lag goes. That, and 120hz makes standard stuff look like stop motion. So, if its all for games, 120hz is the way to go IMO.
Hey guys just a quick question: how much wattage does a typical desktop wireless card require?
I've been having really weird problems with my wireless on one particular system for months, and now I'm wondering if maybe it's a lack of wattage ever since I switched to my most recent wireless card. A year ago I bought a new GPU (an HD6850) and a new PSU with it (500w I think). A few weeks ago I switched wireless cards and it's had really weak signal reception compared to every other device I own, plus it's had intermittently slow connection speeds. I've tried every software solution I know of and the problem has resurfaced following a power outage.
Any chance that lack of wattage may be involved?
I've been having really weird problems with my wireless on one particular system for months, and now I'm wondering if maybe it's a lack of wattage ever since I switched to my most recent wireless card. A year ago I bought a new GPU (an HD6850) and a new PSU with it (500w I think). A few weeks ago I switched wireless cards and it's had really weak signal reception compared to every other device I own, plus it's had intermittently slow connection speeds. I've tried every software solution I know of and the problem has resurfaced following a power outage.
Any chance that lack of wattage may be involved?
Barely any. 6850 + Proc is like maybe 250W total system draw.
The issue is most likely because it is wireless. This is the way of things when you deal with signals through the air.
Any chance of an IP conflict?
Probably not an IP conflict. Windows usually tells me when that's the problem. The thing with wireless is, literally every other wireless device I own get's perfect signal quality from my router. It's just this one that's the problem.
My previous, older wireless card also got perfect reception until it decided to stop connecting entirely. I could never find it why, but it could see networks with excellent quality. It just didn't connect to them and never told me why.
I just got one and no complaints so far. Runs skyrim on ultra with all of my texture mods and such at pretty much constant 60fps. As far as noise goes, can't ask me because I'm not really bothered by it plus I have my case open anyway.
Don't try and make sense of it.
Best bet, find yourself a squirrel/vole/small rodent. Cut it's throat over your wireless card, but save a 1/3 of the blood for the router as well. Repeat outloud "GODS OF THE MAGICAL WIFI, ACCEPT THIS TOKEN OF MY UNDYING LOYALTY TO YOU".
Then restart your computer, update the driver, restart again, and see whats up.
Spiderjericho
Member
Hey do the Crossover 27" monitors have speakers and a standard power cable port? And they only have DVI, not HDMI or display port?
Good to hear. Noise isn't an issue, I have my case open too. My OG PS3 is way louder than my PC has ever gotten, and I can ignore that pretty well.
They sell a model with multiple inputs and it's more expensive, but you deal with increased input lag due to the scaler. It's going to be less than what you would get with LCD TV's, but if you are like mkenyon and want super fast refresh rates and as little lag as possible you would want to avoid.
They use a power supply brick, and you just need to swap the Korean end with a standard PC power plug.
The base model has only DVI, there are other Crossover models that do, and no speakers on the base model either (why even ask about that though, no monitor has good speakers in any case). Uses it's own brick for power, but needs a standard US/UK/whatever 3 prong power cord to connect to an outlet since these are korean models. It comes with a wall adapter if you don't have one.
e: beat
Hey guys, I just ordered the following but still need to get a motherboard and case. I'll be out of town until the end of next week for work so I have a bit of time to find something.
Here's what I have ordered already:
Processor: Intel Core i5 3570K Processor 3.4
GPU: EVGA GeForce GTX670 FTW 2048MB GDDR5 256bit
HDD: Western Digital Caviar Black WD1002FAEX 1TB 7200 rpm
SSD: Crucial 256 GB m4 2.5-Inch Solid State Drive SATA 6Gb/s
RAM: G.SKILL Ripjaws Series 8GB (2 x 4GB)
PSU: CORSAIR Enthusiast Series TX650M 650W
Monitor: Asus VS248H-P 24-Inch Full-HD LED Monitor
For the mobo I am trying to decide between the GIGABYTE GA-Z77-D3H or the MSI Z77A-G45.
I just wanted something with an optical audio out and was ready to jump on the Gigabyte, but it's gotten a few bad reviews lately and wanted to know if there was something else I should look at. I don't really have plans to overclock.
For the case I am leaning towards the CM HAF 922. It was out of stock at Amazon when I was ordering so I figure I can shop around a bit more. I don't really have any size constraints, just want something that is easy to build.
Any suggestions or things I should be concerned with?
Here's what I have ordered already:
Processor: Intel Core i5 3570K Processor 3.4
GPU: EVGA GeForce GTX670 FTW 2048MB GDDR5 256bit
HDD: Western Digital Caviar Black WD1002FAEX 1TB 7200 rpm
SSD: Crucial 256 GB m4 2.5-Inch Solid State Drive SATA 6Gb/s
RAM: G.SKILL Ripjaws Series 8GB (2 x 4GB)
PSU: CORSAIR Enthusiast Series TX650M 650W
Monitor: Asus VS248H-P 24-Inch Full-HD LED Monitor
For the mobo I am trying to decide between the GIGABYTE GA-Z77-D3H or the MSI Z77A-G45.
I just wanted something with an optical audio out and was ready to jump on the Gigabyte, but it's gotten a few bad reviews lately and wanted to know if there was something else I should look at. I don't really have plans to overclock.
For the case I am leaning towards the CM HAF 922. It was out of stock at Amazon when I was ordering so I figure I can shop around a bit more. I don't really have any size constraints, just want something that is easy to build.
Any suggestions or things I should be concerned with?
If you do want one with the multiple inputs/scaler and have a Microcenter nearby this would be a better option:
http://www.microcenter.com/single_product_results.phtml?product_id=0384780
(again scaler lag, but you can decide how important that is to you)
http://www.microcenter.com/single_product_results.phtml?product_id=0384780
(again scaler lag, but you can decide how important that is to you)
I need some guidance on case cooling.
I have a the Corsair H60 rad mounted to the back of my case with an intake fan.
At the top of the case is an exhaust fan.
I'm looking into adding 1 or 2 more fans to the case, one on the side panel and one on the bottom.
I know the bottom fan should be an intake fan, but should the side fan also be an intake, or should it be an exhaust?
My worry is I only have a single exhaust fan (at the top) and I would have 3 intake fans. The PC doesn't get too hot but I'd feel better with one additional fan.
I'm looking at Noctua for their renowned silence. The H60 pump buzzes as is so I don't need a plan propeller adding to the noise
I have a the Corsair H60 rad mounted to the back of my case with an intake fan.
At the top of the case is an exhaust fan.
I'm looking into adding 1 or 2 more fans to the case, one on the side panel and one on the bottom.
I know the bottom fan should be an intake fan, but should the side fan also be an intake, or should it be an exhaust?
My worry is I only have a single exhaust fan (at the top) and I would have 3 intake fans. The PC doesn't get too hot but I'd feel better with one additional fan.
I'm looking at Noctua for their renowned silence. The H60 pump buzzes as is so I don't need a plan propeller adding to the noise
mhayze
Member
One of the reasons I've found that desktop wireless cards used to not do so well is because they had non-extendable antennas in the back of your PC. The PC itself is relatively well shielded from EMF, and acts like several walls between the antenna and the router, unless the router is behind your PC (rare - why have a wireless card then). Newer wireless cards have a separate movable antenna connected by a flexible cable. If it's the latter then ignore this suggestion.
Otherwise, there's a chance it's just the physical barrier that is your PC case. Try putting your PC up on your desk, backwards, so that the antenna is facing you, temporarily. If that improves the signal dramatically, then buy an extension cable + antenna (the antenna plugs follow only one or two standards, and are available on ebay)
im putting my computer together atm; i thought i had everything good to go; so i plugged it in and tried to start it.
i see a light on the motherboard marked flbk led ; but the system doesnt come on/fans dont spin.
mumble suggested that i may have messed up connecting the power button. so can someone in the know give me a quick run down of how to properly connect the power button.
case is haf 912
mobo is p8z77-v le
the case has these wires:
pow led +
pow led -
hdd led
reset led
power sw
usb
hdaudio
gallery with zoom here:
http://www.newegg.ca/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16813131823
i see a light on the motherboard marked flbk led ; but the system doesnt come on/fans dont spin.
mumble suggested that i may have messed up connecting the power button. so can someone in the know give me a quick run down of how to properly connect the power button.
case is haf 912
mobo is p8z77-v le
the case has these wires:
pow led +
pow led -
hdd led
reset led
power sw
usb
hdaudio
gallery with zoom here:
http://www.newegg.ca/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16813131823
So I finally decided on the specs I'll go with my computer, but before I order I want your opinion:
CPU: Intel i5 3570K
Motherboard: MSI Z77A-GD55
Cooler: Corsair H60
GPU: Nvidia GeForce GTX 670 FTW
RAM: Corsair Vengeance 2 x 4GB 1600
PSU: Corsair Enthusiast TX V2 750-Watt Modular
HDD: Western Digital Caviar Blue 500 GB SATA III 7200 RPM
Drive: Asus 24xDVD-RW
Monitor: ASUS VW246H 24-inch
Wifi Adapter: Medialink - Wireless N USB Adapter - 802.11n - 150Mbps - 2.4ghz
Case: Fractal Design Arc Midi
Notes regarding my build:
I plan to overclock my CPU/GPU/RAM decently (expected 4.2-4.5 OCs, etc). Will this motherboard do? I had other options in mind, including ASUS' P8Z77-V PRO and Sabertooth z77, but found pretty decent reviews for the MSI motherboard, and it's a lot cheaper. Are they worth the extra cash?
I couldn't afford an SSD right now, but plan to get a 256 GB SSD when possible (I only plan to install OS and games).
750 PSU because I plan to get a another 670 later, or for the convenience of being future proof if I want to go 680 in the future, or a new card.
Any opinion about the monitor?
I decided to go with an usb adapter, the highest rated one in amazon, for convenience. Should I get a PCI card instead? I need wifi.
CPU: Intel i5 3570K
Motherboard: MSI Z77A-GD55
Cooler: Corsair H60
GPU: Nvidia GeForce GTX 670 FTW
RAM: Corsair Vengeance 2 x 4GB 1600
PSU: Corsair Enthusiast TX V2 750-Watt Modular
HDD: Western Digital Caviar Blue 500 GB SATA III 7200 RPM
Drive: Asus 24xDVD-RW
Monitor: ASUS VW246H 24-inch
Wifi Adapter: Medialink - Wireless N USB Adapter - 802.11n - 150Mbps - 2.4ghz
Case: Fractal Design Arc Midi
Notes regarding my build:
I plan to overclock my CPU/GPU/RAM decently (expected 4.2-4.5 OCs, etc). Will this motherboard do? I had other options in mind, including ASUS' P8Z77-V PRO and Sabertooth z77, but found pretty decent reviews for the MSI motherboard, and it's a lot cheaper. Are they worth the extra cash?
I couldn't afford an SSD right now, but plan to get a 256 GB SSD when possible (I only plan to install OS and games).
750 PSU because I plan to get a another 670 later, or for the convenience of being future proof if I want to go 680 in the future, or a new card.
Any opinion about the monitor?
I decided to go with an usb adapter, the highest rated one in amazon, for convenience. Should I get a PCI card instead? I need wifi.
Fantastical
Death Prophet
I'm so close to just reinstalling my stock CPU fan and forgetting the Coolermaster for now. I can't get my motherboard out, and it's driving my crazy. I'm so afraid to tug on it, but it seems like it's stuck in the I/O panel. Any suggestions on how to get it out?
I seem to have a problem every step of the way. (this emoticon is hiding my frustration)
EDIT: The case is a HAF 912.
I seem to have a problem every step of the way.
(this emoticon is hiding my frustration)EDIT: The case is a HAF 912.
Fine
Fine
Fine
Fine
Fine
I's swap the Blue (It's a budget drive) for an F3 1TB, and get a higher end self contained water cooler or a CM212
Make sure you unscrewed everything, then tug away from the I/O shield. Then up.I'm so close to just reinstalling my stock CPU fan and forgetting the Coolermaster for now. I can't get my motherboard out, and it's driving my crazy. I'm so afraid to tug on it, but it seems like it's stuck in the I/O panel. Any suggestions on how to get it out?
I seem to have a problem every step of the way.
EDIT: The case is a HAF 912.
Make sure no case fans are blocking it. Ideally just take the back cover off and install it without removal.
iirc, the whole of the back bracket is visible in that opening behind your mobo; so shouldnt [worst comes to worst] it be possible to install it by removing both sidings of your case? [in theory]I'm so close to just reinstalling my stock CPU fan and forgetting the Coolermaster for now. I can't get my motherboard out, and it's driving my crazy. I'm so afraid to tug on it, but it seems like it's stuck in the I/O panel. Any suggestions on how to get it out?
I seem to have a problem every step of the way.
EDIT: The case is a HAF 912.
OP Motherboards are handpicked for reliability, value, and performance. Pick one of those.
OP again has the best case choices. The CM690II and Fractal Arc Midi are both amazing cases, if you were looking at that $70-100 price range. They have quite a few features the 922 is lacking on, the case is pretty dated at this point with where features and tech have come in the last 3 years.
1) Does your videocard exhaust heat out of the rear via a blower design?I need some guidance on case cooling.
I have a the Corsair H60 rad mounted to the back of my case with an intake fan.
At the top of the case is an exhaust fan.
I'm looking into adding 1 or 2 more fans to the case, one on the side panel and one on the bottom.
I know the bottom fan should be an intake fan, but should the side fan also be an intake, or should it be an exhaust?
My worry is I only have a single exhaust fan (at the top) and I would have 3 intake fans. The PC doesn't get too hot but I'd feel better with one additional fan.
I'm looking at Noctua for their renowned silence. The H60 pump buzzes as is so I don't need a plan propeller adding to the noise
a) If yes, then you need to swap your H60 to exhaust.
b) If no, continue on.
2) What about temps are you currently unhappy with that has you interested in adding more?
3) Positive pressure (more CFM in vs. CFM out) is always the best option, but you don't want it too uneven. If your answer to question 1 was yes, then I would certainly suggest top and rear exhaust. Bottom, side, and front are intake.
If your answer to question 1 was no, I'd still try it out that way and see what temps look like. If they're worse, I'd swap the rear back to intake and put the side as exhaust, especially if it's right at the GPU. The positive pressure from the rear, front, and bottom will help expel the GPU air right out the side. I had a similar setup in my Arc Mini.
4) Really though, those kinds of fan solutions are only necessary with SLI/Xfire.
The Gene-Z IV and Gene V is a great option at a more reasonable price. It's worth it if you want to go past 4.5 24/7.
There are certainly better coolers for the money than the H60 as well. The TPC812 and NZXT Havik are the same price and perform right on par with the H100. The 212+ is right there with the H60.
I've had nothing but bad luck with Cav Blues, and that's a pretty common situation. Cav Black if you need reliability. If you already have backup solutions, it's probably not worth it to you.
You certain you need an optical drive?
I hate wireless adapters, but I will always always suggest the PCI ones over the USB ones if a wire is not an option at all. By 'not an option at all', I mean the router is on a different corner of a two story house than your current is. Zip ties + wall runners if you dont want to drill, but drill if possible.
Don't be afraid to break it, pull harder. Be sure you have removed all of the screws and try to see what it's catching on. But other than that, don't be afraid to really really tug.I'm so close to just reinstalling my stock CPU fan and forgetting the Coolermaster for now. I can't get my motherboard out, and it's driving my crazy. I'm so afraid to tug on it, but it seems like it's stuck in the I/O panel. Any suggestions on how to get it out?
I seem to have a problem every step of the way.
EDIT: The case is a HAF 912.
The EVGA GTX 680+ 4GB w/Backplate has been listed for $600 on the EVGA website and is in stock with no limit
http://www.evga.com/products/moreInfo.asp?pn=04G-P4-2686-KR&family=GeForce 600 Series Family&sw=
http://www.evga.com/products/moreInfo.asp?pn=04G-P4-2686-KR&family=GeForce 600 Series Family&sw=
I don't know how I feel about getting a micro atx board... The V has pretty good reviews, though. Don't know what to do.
I swapped the HDD for a 1TB F3 and the H60 for an NZXT Havik CPU Cooler with Dual 140mm fans.
I don't know how I feel about getting a micro atx board... The V has pretty good reviews, though. Don't know what to do.
I swapped the HDD for a 1TB F3 and the H60 for an NZXT Havik CPU Cooler with Dual 140mm fans.
The only downside to mATX is limited PCI-E slots. You are maxed out at 2 way SLI with slightly higher temps due to only being 2 slots apart. Other than that, it's an amazing board. Haz uses one himself!
Witchfinder General
punched Wheelchair Mike
My pc parts have arrived!
Before I build it I have a newbie question: should I rest the parts on the anti-static bags they come in? I've watched a few how-to-build-a-pc videos and some say using the bag is good and others say otherwise.
Before I build it I have a newbie question: should I rest the parts on the anti-static bags they come in? I've watched a few how-to-build-a-pc videos and some say using the bag is good and others say otherwise.
Its good practice, but if you're on a wood or grounded surface, there's nothing really to worry about. It's just one of those Nth degree precautions. I generally do if they are convenient.
The only downside to mATX is limited PCI-E slots. You are maxed out at 2 way SLI with slightly higher temps due to only being 2 slots apart. Other than that, it's an amazing board. Haz uses one himself!
I'm convinced. The reviews are VERY good. Can I fit the NZXT HAVIK CPU Cooler with Dual 140MM Fans with Corsair Vengeance DIMMS inside the Arc Midi?
Get the low profile ones.
Fantastical
Death Prophet
Thanks for the help with my questions guys, I got the motherboard out, installed the backplate for my Coolmaster Hyper 212 EVO and I'm about ready to finish it, but I have yet another question. The retention plate with the screws that go into the stand offs... how flimsy is that supposed to be on the heatsink (above where it touches the CPU). Many videos I've watched mention "locking into place", but on mine it doesn't really lock, it's still very flimsy, and I can't tell if it's any more sturdy in the videos I'm watching or not.
Stupid question, but I don't want anything going wrong after I've put this much time into it.
Stupid question, but I don't want anything going wrong after I've put this much time into it.
There's nowhere I can really sit it, but someone earlier in this thread suggested it might be a problem between the type of card and type of router.
My card is mainly an N adapter with b/g compatibility. My router is mainly a g router that I don't think is compatible with N at all. I think someone said that the kind of connection between the two could be easily disrupted.
Thanks, I was actually at Fry's tonight (first time!) and the 922 looked kind of obnoxious in person. I liked the cases that had a simple, minimalistic look and the Fractal looks like a winner.
Still in stock. Looks like the 680 shortage might be coming to an end.
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