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"I need a New PC!" 2012 Thread. 22nm+28nm, Tri-Gate, and reading the OP. [Part 1]

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Witchfinder General

punched Wheelchair Mike
Desperate help! I've just fit my Noctua NH-D14 cpu fan to my Gigabyte G1.Sniper3 mobo and the Noctua's fan cable is a 3 pin whereas the CPU fan connector on the mobo is a 4 pin. Below and to the right of the 4 pin connector is a 3 pin one but I'm not sue what that's for.

Help!
 

Ty4on

Member
Desperate help! I've just fit my Noctua NH-D14 cpu fan to my Gigabyte G1.Sniper3 mobo and the Noctua's fan cable is a 3 pin whereas the CPU fan connector on the mobo is a 4 pin. Below and to the right of the 4 pin connector is a 3 pin one but I'm not sue what that's for.

Help!

The fourth pin is for PWM fans and doesn't need to be used. Your motherboard manual should tell you what three pins you should use.

3pin1.jpg
 

Fantastical

Death Prophet
Just finished building my PC. After all my stressing and worrying about stuff I was doing wrong, I was very surprised to see the computer turn on, lights working on case, display on motherboard working, fans turning, etc.

Unfortunately, when I hooked it up to a monitor via an HDMI cable from my graphics card, nothing happened. I put my GTX 560 Ti 448 Cores into a PCI-Express 3.0 slot because as I understand it, it's backwards compatible (and my graphics card wouldn't fit properly into another slot.

What should I do? :p
 
Well it appears my power supply was faulty in the end the fans just never spun at all. I now have to wait 7 to 10 days for dabs to sort themselves out and send me a replacement.
 

daviyoung

Banned
Just finished building my PC. After all my stressing and worrying about stuff I was doing wrong, I was very surprised to see the computer turn on, lights working on case, display on motherboard working, fans turning, etc.

Unfortunately, when I hooked it up to a monitor via an HDMI cable from my graphics card, nothing happened. I put my GTX 560 Ti 448 Cores into a PCI-Express 3.0 slot because as I understand it, it's backwards compatible (and my graphics card wouldn't fit properly into another slot.

What should I do? :p

Firstly, try VGA/DVI and on different monitors if you can. There could be a driver/resolution/cable problem stopping it from displaying correctly on HDMI. Otherwise, a few things:

1. Make sure it's secure and in the slot suggested by the card's manual.
2. Install the motherboard's speaker if you have one
3. Boot up the PC with the case off
4. When booting up keep an eye on the LEDs that light up, and the number of beeps the speaker makes then cross-reference those with the motherboard manual or online
5. 9/10 times you're having a VGA error and you haven't plugged the GPU into the power supply correctly
 

Fantastical

Death Prophet
Firstly, try VGA/DVI and on different monitors if you can. There could be a driver/resolution/cable problem stopping it from displaying correctly on HDMI. Otherwise, a few things:

1. Make sure it's secure and in the slot suggested by the card's manual.
2. Install the motherboard's speaker if you have one
3. Boot up the PC with the case off
4. When booting up keep an eye on the LEDs that light up, and the number of beeps the speaker makes then cross-reference those with the motherboard manual or online
5. 9/10 times you're having a VGA error and you haven't plugged the GPU into the power supply correctly

Thanks, I thought I had the speaker plugged in correctly, but I apparently didn't. I plugged it back in and got 1 short beep. Refercing the AMI BIOS Post Codes this means a "Memory Refresh Timer Error", suggesting I should reseat my memory. I think this is the problem, but i ran into a problem earlier with my CPU fan that is attached to the heatsink blocking one of the memory slots. I moved both over to what should have corresponding spots, but obviously there is a problem.
 

Hazaro

relies on auto-aim
Thanks, I thought I had the speaker plugged in correctly, but I apparently didn't. I plugged it back in and got 1 short beep. Refercing the AMI BIOS Post Codes this means a "Memory Refresh Timer Error", suggesting I should reseat my memory. I think this is the problem, but i ran into a problem earlier with my CPU fan that is attached to the heatsink blocking one of the memory slots. I moved both over to what should have corresponding spots, but obviously there is a problem.
Look through mobo manual and google. Usually seating 1 stick in B1 should boot fine.

Usually just missing a power plug some where, or you didn't isntall standoffs. Those are the most common anyway.
all built now; win7 is installing.

<3 you guys, especially haz. i could not <3 you more even if you were a pony.
Parts list again?
twitch.tv/PandaSC ?
 

Witchfinder General

punched Wheelchair Mike
Hello from my new PC! I'm posting from a PC that I have spent the last six hours building. It was hair wrenching and painful but I'm glad I did it.

Thanks to everyone who helped and answered my questions along the way.

Now to install some drivers. I just need drivers for my mobo and video card, right?
 

abunai

Member
Hello from my new PC! I'm posting from a PC that I have spent the last six hours building. It was hair wrenching and painful but I'm glad I did it.

Thanks to everyone who helped and answered my questions along the way.

Now to install some drivers. I just need drivers for my mobo and video card, right?

Congrats on the build, it's a good feeling. Yeah, pretty much. Grab all the drivers for your motherboard from the manufacturer's website, chipset/LAN/sound etc, then video card. RealTemp is a nice temperature monitoring tool, and CCleaner will keep your PC clutter free.
 

Ceebs

Member
Hello from my new PC! I'm posting from a PC that I have spent the last six hours building. It was hair wrenching and painful but I'm glad I did it.

Thanks to everyone who helped and answered my questions along the way.

Now to install some drivers. I just need drivers for my mobo and video card, right?

The plus side is, now that you know what you are doing you will be able to build your next one in under an hour.
 

Witchfinder General

punched Wheelchair Mike
Congrats on the build, it's a good feeling. Yeah, pretty much. Grab all the drivers for your motherboard from the manufacturer's website, chipset/LAN/sound etc, then video card. RealTemp is a nice temperature monitoring tool, and CCleaner will keep your PC clutter free.

Cheers.

The plus side is, now that you know what you are doing you will be able to build your next one in under an hour.

Heh, yeah, it's like setting up a turntable. The first time you do it you're sweating bullets, after a while it's easy. I've set-up hundreds of turntables and some I could literally do blindfolded.
 

Smokey

Member
Does anybody know what's up with the 3770k? Been OOS for very long time at newegg, and isn't available at microcenter either.
 

jmdajr

Member
Any good wireless gamepads besides the 360 controller. I don't know if I want to deal with the bullshit of another wireless receiver blowing a fuse on me again and having a wired one is unacceptable.
 

cametall

Member
1) Does your videocard exhaust heat out of the rear via a blower design?
a) If yes, then you need to swap your H60 to exhaust.
b) If no, continue on.
2) What about temps are you currently unhappy with that has you interested in adding more?
3) Positive pressure (more CFM in vs. CFM out) is always the best option, but you don't want it too uneven. If your answer to question 1 was yes, then I would certainly suggest top and rear exhaust. Bottom, side, and front are intake.

If your answer to question 1 was no, I'd still try it out that way and see what temps look like. If they're worse, I'd swap the rear back to intake and put the side as exhaust, especially if it's right at the GPU. The positive pressure from the rear, front, and bottom will help expel the GPU air right out the side. I had a similar setup in my Arc Mini.

4) Really though, those kinds of fan solutions are only necessary with SLI/Xfire.

1. Yes it has rear exhaust (GTX 460)
2. CPU Temp (i5 3570K, not OC'd), with Prime95 running was at 82c. I moved the PC to a more open area and full load temps dropped to 78c (still high I think). Before moving it idel temps were 43-45c, now they're 39-42c.

Corsair recommends having the radiator on the back of the case with an intake fan pushing air through it. Should the radiator be moved to the top of the case, maintaining the intake fan > radiator setup?

If reseating the H60's cooling plate doesn't help I may end up trying a push/pull setup with the radiator to see if that gives me any drastic improvement (doubtful).

I ordered an additional fan but can't decide on whether to place it on the side/bottom/front panel as intake or use it in a push/pull system.

I appreciate all the help.
 

Ceebs

Member
Any good wireless gamepads besides the 360 controller. I don't know if I want to deal with the bullshit of another wireless receiver blowing a fuse on me again and having a wired one is unacceptable.

I have been using my Dualshock 3 via bluetooth and Motionjoy since the rubber came off one of my 360 pad's sticks. Works great with the 360 pad emulation feature and you can even switch the triggers around if you hate using L2 and R2.
 

mkenyon

Banned
1. Yes it has rear exhaust (GTX 460)
2. CPU Temp (i5 3570K, not OC'd), with Prime95 running was at 82c. I moved the PC to a more open area and full load temps dropped to 78c (still high I think). Before moving it idel temps were 43-45c, now they're 39-42c.

Corsair recommends having the radiator on the back of the case with an intake fan pushing air through it. Should the radiator be moved to the top of the case, maintaining the intake fan > radiator setup?

If reseating the H60's cooling plate doesn't help I may end up trying a push/pull setup with the radiator to see if that gives me any drastic improvement (doubtful).

I ordered an additional fan but can't decide on whether to place it on the side/bottom/front panel as intake or use it in a push/pull system.

I appreciate all the help.
It's a general suggestion from Corsair. What you are doing is pulling in all the hot air from your videocard and PSU. Switch it to exhaust and go with the rest of the stuff I suggested.
Whelp, I'm now currently downloading Diablo 3, Crysis 2 and Project Cars. Guess I'll be giving my GTX670 a workout. These games should last me a while.
I do not understand! :p
4GB is useless now? Not good for 1440p/1600p with AA?
Surround/Eyefinity. Otherwise no point whatsoever.
 

Effect

Member
Finally broke down and finished my upgrade. Had picked up the following over the last two year (well tail end of 2010 and the middle of 2011). Got the graphics card and power supply in 2011.

ASUS M4A79XTD EVO AM3 AMD 790X ATX AMD Motherboard
EVGA SuperClocked 01G-P3-1461-KR GeForce GTX 560 (Fermi) 1GB
700W Power Supply
AMD Phenom II X4 925 Deneb 2.8GHz Socket AM3 95W Quad-Core Processor
4GB Ram

Decided to order a copy of Windows 7 Home Premium and 4 more gigs of ram. I'm thinking I should be go for a while now. The only thing I'm concerned about is keeping the system cool. I've had my PC reboot on me a few times playing Battlefield 3 (Medium settings allows for the best result). Now I've checked the temp of the computer while playing and as soon as it reboots and it isn't overheating. I wonder if the amount of ram I have was causing the problem and if the increase should solve it. Thoughts?

It usually happens after long play sessions and I had been using the browser earlier to but I try to close all the tabs before launching the game. When I turn on my system and go right into the game it usually doesn't happen from what I've noticed.

---------------

Edit: By reboots I mean just restarts as if someone press the restart button. When I think about it Battlefield 3 is the only game where this happen.
 
Hey guys, I'm looking to upgrade my computer. But only the CPU and Motherboard. If anything else is necessary then I will jump on it.
My problem is..I'm not very good with this kind of thing.
I need a cpu that can run Battlefield 3 on medium/high settings.
My GPU is a GTX 460, so I'm okay there (not great, just okay).
My current CPU is (get ready to lol) an Intel Pentium Processor E5300. How I've been able to run Battlefield 3 up until now with barely any hiccups on Medium/High settings is beyond me.

I only have around $350-400 to spend. Any help would be greatly appreciated.
EDIT: oh right, I have 6gb of ram.
 

mkenyon

Banned
Do you get a bluescreen?

Hey guys, I'm looking to upgrade my computer. But only the CPU and Motherboard. If anything else is necessary then I will jump on it.
My problem is..I'm not very good with this kind of thing.
I need a cpu that can run Battlefield 3 on medium/high settings.
My GPU is a GTX 460, so I'm okay there (not great, just okay).
My current CPU is (get ready to lol) an Intel Pentium Processor E5300. How I've been able to run Battlefield 3 up until now with barely any hiccups on Medium/High settings is beyond me.

I only have around $350-400 to spend. Any help would be greatly appreciated.
OP. $200 2500K, $120-150 motherboard, $50 RAM.
 

Spazo

Member
I'm looking for some advise. I still have the stock fan on my CPU and I'm looking something better for overclocking

Is it ok to buy a Corsair H100 now or it still have many issue ? I can have a new H100 for 99$.

Do you recommend another setup ?

Corsair Obsidian 650D Case
Asus P8P67 Pro Rev3.1
Intel Core i5-2500k
 

mkenyon

Banned
I'm looking for some advise. I still have the stock fan on my CPU and I'm looking something better for overclocking

Is it ok to buy a Corsair H100 now or it still have many issue ? I can have a new H100 for 99$.

Do you recommend another setup ?

Corsair Obsidian 650D Case
Asus P8P67 Pro Rev3.1
Intel Core i5-2500k
Beyond 4.5Ghz, CM TPC812 = NZXT Havik = H100 in performance. If you're looking for the 4.3-4.6 range, CM 212+ is where its at.
 

Ocho

Member
Updated build (decided to spend extra cash):

Case: Fractal Design Arc Midi
Motherboard: ASUS Maximus V Gene
CPU: Intel i5 3570k 3.4
Cooler: NZXT Havik 120
RAM: Corsair Vengeance 1600 (2x4)
SSD: Curcial m4 256 GB
GPU: Nvidia GeForce 670 GTX FTW
PSU: Corsair Enthusiast TX V2 750-watt modular
Drive: ASUS DVD-RW DRW-24B1ST
Wifi: ASUS Wireless-N PCI-E
Monitor: ASUS VW246H 24-inch

Decided to get the SSD. 256 is fine, I only plan to install OS and games.

Opinions?
 

Noaloha

Member
How does the Arctic i30 cpu cooler stack up against the 212+? Nominal difference or major?

The Arctic would be a more convenient purchase simply because it's in stock at the same place as the rest of the components.
 
Do you get a bluescreen?


OP. $200 2500K, $120-150 motherboard, $50 RAM.

Thanks. Turns out I have more money than I thought, so I'm going to upgrade my GPU to either:
This one
or
This one
I have no idea what the differences are (or what they mean ): ), but my main concern is, is my 700W power supply good enough?
I really need to look further down that table chart. 700W seems good enough.
 

Spazo

Member
Beyond 4.5Ghz, CM TPC812 = NZXT Havik = H100 in performance. If you're looking for the 4.3-4.6 range, CM 212+ is where its at.

from this review, the H100 look alot better

cooler_master_tpc_812-030.jpg


think I will go with the H100, i just wish it dont fail on me

do you recommend any good 120mm fan to go with the h100 ?
 

mkenyon

Banned
Updated build (decided to spend extra cash):

Case: Fractal Design Arc Midi
Motherboard: ASUS Maximus V Gene
CPU: Intel i5 3570k 3.4
Cooler: NZXT Havik 120
RAM: Corsair Vengeance 1600 (2x4)
SSD: Curcial m4 256 GB
GPU: Nvidia GeForce 670 GTX FTW
PSU: Corsair Enthusiast TX V2 750-watt modular
Drive: ASUS DVD-RW DRW-24B1ST
Wifi: ASUS Wireless-N PCI-E
Monitor: ASUS VW246H 24-inch

Decided to get the SSD. 256 is fine, I only plan to install OS and games.

Opinions?
Shoot, when I say Havik, I mean the 140mm cooler. The 120 isn't nearly as great. I always forget there is a 120mm model. Make sure you get the low profile corsair vengeance. 256GB is a lot of space on an SSD.

from this review, the H100 look alot better
Those results are off from most reviews I've seen, plus they're not even Delta temps. That seems really fishy to me. Check out the results on this page.
 

Ty4on

Member
3) Positive pressure (more CFM in vs. CFM out) is always the best option, but you don't want it too uneven. If your answer to question 1 was yes, then I would certainly suggest top and rear exhaust. Bottom, side, and front are intake.

Doesn't it make more sense to make top intake? It will make it very PP, but I don't see why you need that many fans blowing at the HDDs (if he even has more than one). What purpose does a top exaust really serve, it seems to me like it just steals air from the radiator.
intakeontopjfl1b.jpeg
 

mkenyon

Banned
Doesn't it make more sense to make top intake? It will make it very PP, but I don't see why you need that many fans blowing at the HDDs (if he even has more than one). What purpose does a top exaust really serve, it seems to me like it just steals air from the radiator.
intakeontopjfl1b.jpeg
Heat rises. I don't really understand the diagram either.
 

mkenyon

Banned
You can force air to go anywhere you want, that doesn't apply to when you're controlling air with fans.
It most certainly does. If you work with thermodynamics, you'll almost always have better temps. I'll see if I can dig up the tests/articles that I'm using as a reference point.
 

longdi

Banned
i would put the top as intake too. it will bring fresh air to the vrm area which helps in overclock stability. if you are using those aio cooler, top air come in, cool vrm and get suck out through the back radiator.
 

Ty4on

Member
Heat rises. I don't really understand the diagram either.

The arrows is where the air is pulled. Heat rises, but that is more important in passive systems as fans can easilly overcome that.

I just don't understand what hot air the exaust on top are exausting. The mobo is like twenty watt and unless he has six drives then one 3.5 HDD is usually less than ten watt. If the fans had been pushing down they would increase the air pressure in that area and help push air through the radiator.

The FT01 has an intake in the top and seems to do a decent job cooling, but it was reviewed before the H50 and well before self contained liquid coolers started being good. This review however was with a very early self contained liquid cooler testing with positive pressure against with negative pressure. Have no idea what fans they flipped, but considering the animations they got from Silverstone I'm guessing it's just the top fan.
silverstone_ft01_temps.jpg


It also did well in other and reviews, but they're both with tower coolers.
 
Do you get a bluescreen?


OP. $200 2500K, $120-150 motherboard, $50 RAM.

He'd be better off selling the 460 and getting an i3, 2x2GB of memory for $25, a $70 board and a 7850. Battlefield 3 isn't nearly as CPU intensive as BC2 was and requires more GPU.

He'll get 60 fps running high in pretty much everything. July is supposed to bring 3rd gen i3, might be best to wait a month.
 

Ala Alba

Member
Can anyone recommend me a good SD/Memory Pro Duo/etc card reader, preferably internal?

I bought a Sony one, but I, uh, made the mistake of plugging it into the IEEE(?) spot on the motherboard instead of the USB spot, and while I'm not sure that it broke from that, it doesn't work, so...

(I realized that I had made a mistake when I plugged in a usb thumbdrive and it, well, fried.)
 

mkenyon

Banned
i would put the top as intake too. it will bring fresh air to the vrm area which helps in overclock stability. if you are using those aio cooler, top air come in, cool vrm and get suck out through the back radiator.
There's nothing that is really causing too much ambient heat.

Lets say you have 5 fan mounts.

Intake = side, front, bottom.
Exhaust = top, rear.

The intake from the front will be washing over the HDD's a bit, but that's not really a concern unless you have a large array. The bottom will be partially obstructed by the GPU, as well as the side. However, reference blower-style GPU's have fairly low CFM despite high spinning fans. There's no way it's going to match the CFM of two good 120mm intake fans. The air that is left is not going to pick up much ambient heat either.

The 'top' fan placement should be looked at as 'top rear'. This distinction is really important when you're looking at a combination of a blower-style GPU and a rear exhaust PSU. That heat doesn't go very far behind the case. If you completely removed a fan from that 'top rear' spot, and you put your hand there, you're going to notice quite a bit of an ambient increase just from the blower GPU and PSU. Thats a ton of heat you want staying outside of your system, and that rear or 'top rear' fan is going to pull it right back in. The ambient temp inside the case is even going to be lower than that area.

Go ahead and test it out, but I was in an almost identical situation in my arc mini. Pics for a good visual.

First case, I had my two 560Ti TFII's, and they don't exhaust out the rear. In this instance, temps for my CPU (radiator up top) were about 8C cooler as intake as they were exhaust. The 'bottom' arrow in both of these cases is a side panel fan.

1qrnel.jpg


Once I had switched out the 560Ti's for a 7970, I tried it out initially keeping the fans more or less the same. I got an itch to mess around and swapped the top two fans to exhaust instead of intake, and the side panel fan to intake instead of exhaust. CPU temps dropped by ~5C, GPU stayed roughly the same.

4f2Unl.jpg


Just because the air is outside your case doesn't mean it's cooler than air inside your case. Where you are pulling air from is really really important.

*EDIT*
Fixed pictures.
 

cametall

Member
The arrows is where the air is pulled. Heat rises, but that is more important in passive systems as fans can easilly overcome that.

I just don't understand what hot air the exaust on top are exausting.

The air coming from the top exhaust ranges from cool to lukewarm. The air coming out of the PC overall is lukewarm. My last PC (a Dell) could actually increase the ambient temperature of the room after several hours.

The case I'm using is an Antec Gaming Series One.

So the concensus on the radiator is to have the fan as exhaust. Should the set up be (< > indicates airflow direction): case < fan < radiator or case < radiator < fan?

Right now as intake it is: case > fan > radiator.

EDIT: Regarding other hardware, I just have a DVD RW and a single HDD sitting in there. Nothing fancy.

EDIT x2: Would having the back fan/radiator as exhaust, top fan as exhaust and an intake side fan theoretically be OK? I keep seeing "positive and negative" being thrown around, with negative (more exhaust than intake) being preferred.
 
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