Or all the people who bought a 680 aren't interested in shelling out $600 for useless VRAM.Still in stock. Looks like the 680 shortage might be coming to an end.
Or all the people who bought a 680 aren't interested in shelling out $600 for useless VRAM.Still in stock. Looks like the 680 shortage might be coming to an end.
Desperate help! I've just fit my Noctua NH-D14 cpu fan to my Gigabyte G1.Sniper3 mobo and the Noctua's fan cable is a 3 pin whereas the CPU fan connector on the mobo is a 4 pin. Below and to the right of the 4 pin connector is a 3 pin one but I'm not sue what that's for.
Help!
The fourth pin is for PWM fans and doesn't need to be used. Your motherboard manual should tell you what three pins you should use.
Just finished building my PC. After all my stressing and worrying about stuff I was doing wrong, I was very surprised to see the computer turn on, lights working on case, display on motherboard working, fans turning, etc.
Unfortunately, when I hooked it up to a monitor via an HDMI cable from my graphics card, nothing happened. I put my GTX 560 Ti 448 Cores into a PCI-Express 3.0 slot because as I understand it, it's backwards compatible (and my graphics card wouldn't fit properly into another slot.
What should I do?
Firstly, try VGA/DVI and on different monitors if you can. There could be a driver/resolution/cable problem stopping it from displaying correctly on HDMI. Otherwise, a few things:
1. Make sure it's secure and in the slot suggested by the card's manual.
2. Install the motherboard's speaker if you have one
3. Boot up the PC with the case off
4. When booting up keep an eye on the LEDs that light up, and the number of beeps the speaker makes then cross-reference those with the motherboard manual or online
5. 9/10 times you're having a VGA error and you haven't plugged the GPU into the power supply correctly
all built now; win7 is installing.
Look through mobo manual and google. Usually seating 1 stick in B1 should boot fine.Thanks, I thought I had the speaker plugged in correctly, but I apparently didn't. I plugged it back in and got 1 short beep. Refercing the AMI BIOS Post Codes this means a "Memory Refresh Timer Error", suggesting I should reseat my memory. I think this is the problem, but i ran into a problem earlier with my CPU fan that is attached to the heatsink blocking one of the memory slots. I moved both over to what should have corresponding spots, but obviously there is a problem.
Parts list again?all built now; win7 is installing.
<3 you guys, especially haz. i could not <3 you more even if you were a pony.
Hello from my new PC! I'm posting from a PC that I have spent the last six hours building. It was hair wrenching and painful but I'm glad I did it.
Thanks to everyone who helped and answered my questions along the way.
Now to install some drivers. I just need drivers for my mobo and video card, right?
Hello from my new PC! I'm posting from a PC that I have spent the last six hours building. It was hair wrenching and painful but I'm glad I did it.
Thanks to everyone who helped and answered my questions along the way.
Now to install some drivers. I just need drivers for my mobo and video card, right?
Congrats on the build, it's a good feeling. Yeah, pretty much. Grab all the drivers for your motherboard from the manufacturer's website, chipset/LAN/sound etc, then video card. RealTemp is a nice temperature monitoring tool, and CCleaner will keep your PC clutter free.
The plus side is, now that you know what you are doing you will be able to build your next one in under an hour.
4GB is useless now? Not good for 1440p/1600p with AA?Or all the people who bought a 680 aren't interested in shelling out $600 for useless VRAM.
4GB is useless now? Not good for 1440p/1600p with AA?
1) Does your videocard exhaust heat out of the rear via a blower design?
a) If yes, then you need to swap your H60 to exhaust.
b) If no, continue on.
2) What about temps are you currently unhappy with that has you interested in adding more?
3) Positive pressure (more CFM in vs. CFM out) is always the best option, but you don't want it too uneven. If your answer to question 1 was yes, then I would certainly suggest top and rear exhaust. Bottom, side, and front are intake.
If your answer to question 1 was no, I'd still try it out that way and see what temps look like. If they're worse, I'd swap the rear back to intake and put the side as exhaust, especially if it's right at the GPU. The positive pressure from the rear, front, and bottom will help expel the GPU air right out the side. I had a similar setup in my Arc Mini.
4) Really though, those kinds of fan solutions are only necessary with SLI/Xfire.
Any good wireless gamepads besides the 360 controller. I don't know if I want to deal with the bullshit of another wireless receiver blowing a fuse on me again and having a wired one is unacceptable.
4GB is useless now? Not good for 1440p/1600p with AA?
It's a general suggestion from Corsair. What you are doing is pulling in all the hot air from your videocard and PSU. Switch it to exhaust and go with the rest of the stuff I suggested.1. Yes it has rear exhaust (GTX 460)
2. CPU Temp (i5 3570K, not OC'd), with Prime95 running was at 82c. I moved the PC to a more open area and full load temps dropped to 78c (still high I think). Before moving it idel temps were 43-45c, now they're 39-42c.
Corsair recommends having the radiator on the back of the case with an intake fan pushing air through it. Should the radiator be moved to the top of the case, maintaining the intake fan > radiator setup?
If reseating the H60's cooling plate doesn't help I may end up trying a push/pull setup with the radiator to see if that gives me any drastic improvement (doubtful).
I ordered an additional fan but can't decide on whether to place it on the side/bottom/front panel as intake or use it in a push/pull system.
I appreciate all the help.
I do not understand!Whelp, I'm now currently downloading Diablo 3, Crysis 2 and Project Cars. Guess I'll be giving my GTX670 a workout. These games should last me a while.
Surround/Eyefinity. Otherwise no point whatsoever.4GB is useless now? Not good for 1440p/1600p with AA?
I don't go over 1.6gb of Vram in BF3 at 1440p 2x MSAA. Other games are much less.
Not necessary. I have 2gb @ 1600p and have no issues. 4gb is pretty extreme yo
Thanks for clarification.Surround/Eyefinity. Otherwise no point whatsoever.
OP. $200 2500K, $120-150 motherboard, $50 RAM.Hey guys, I'm looking to upgrade my computer. But only the CPU and Motherboard. If anything else is necessary then I will jump on it.
My problem is..I'm not very good with this kind of thing.
I need a cpu that can run Battlefield 3 on medium/high settings.
My GPU is a GTX 460, so I'm okay there (not great, just okay).
My current CPU is (get ready to lol) an Intel Pentium Processor E5300. How I've been able to run Battlefield 3 up until now with barely any hiccups on Medium/High settings is beyond me.
I only have around $350-400 to spend. Any help would be greatly appreciated.
Beyond 4.5Ghz, CM TPC812 = NZXT Havik = H100 in performance. If you're looking for the 4.3-4.6 range, CM 212+ is where its at.I'm looking for some advise. I still have the stock fan on my CPU and I'm looking something better for overclocking
Is it ok to buy a Corsair H100 now or it still have many issue ? I can have a new H100 for 99$.
Do you recommend another setup ?
Corsair Obsidian 650D Case
Asus P8P67 Pro Rev3.1
Intel Core i5-2500k
Do you get a bluescreen?
OP. $200 2500K, $120-150 motherboard, $50 RAM.
Beyond 4.5Ghz, CM TPC812 = NZXT Havik = H100 in performance. If you're looking for the 4.3-4.6 range, CM 212+ is where its at.
I do not understand!
Shoot, when I say Havik, I mean the 140mm cooler. The 120 isn't nearly as great. I always forget there is a 120mm model. Make sure you get the low profile corsair vengeance. 256GB is a lot of space on an SSD.Updated build (decided to spend extra cash):
Case: Fractal Design Arc Midi
Motherboard: ASUS Maximus V Gene
CPU: Intel i5 3570k 3.4
Cooler: NZXT Havik 120
RAM: Corsair Vengeance 1600 (2x4)
SSD: Curcial m4 256 GB
GPU: Nvidia GeForce 670 GTX FTW
PSU: Corsair Enthusiast TX V2 750-watt modular
Drive: ASUS DVD-RW DRW-24B1ST
Wifi: ASUS Wireless-N PCI-E
Monitor: ASUS VW246H 24-inch
Decided to get the SSD. 256 is fine, I only plan to install OS and games.
Opinions?
Those results are off from most reviews I've seen, plus they're not even Delta temps. That seems really fishy to me. Check out the results on this page.from this review, the H100 look alot better
Shoot, when I say Havik, I mean the 140mm cooler. The 120 isn't nearly as great. I always forget there is a 120mm model. Make sure you get the low profile corsair vengeance. 256GB is a lot of space on an SSD.
3) Positive pressure (more CFM in vs. CFM out) is always the best option, but you don't want it too uneven. If your answer to question 1 was yes, then I would certainly suggest top and rear exhaust. Bottom, side, and front are intake.
Heat rises. I don't really understand the diagram either.Doesn't it make more sense to make top intake? It will make it very PP, but I don't see why you need that many fans blowing at the HDDs (if he even has more than one). What purpose does a top exaust really serve, it seems to me like it just steals air from the radiator.
Heat rises. I don't really understand the diagram either.
It most certainly does. If you work with thermodynamics, you'll almost always have better temps. I'll see if I can dig up the tests/articles that I'm using as a reference point.You can force air to go anywhere you want, that doesn't apply to when you're controlling air with fans.
Heat rises. I don't really understand the diagram either.
Do you get a bluescreen?
OP. $200 2500K, $120-150 motherboard, $50 RAM.
There's nothing that is really causing too much ambient heat.i would put the top as intake too. it will bring fresh air to the vrm area which helps in overclock stability. if you are using those aio cooler, top air come in, cool vrm and get suck out through the back radiator.
The arrows is where the air is pulled. Heat rises, but that is more important in passive systems as fans can easilly overcome that.
I just don't understand what hot air the exaust on top are exausting.
My 3570k and mobo should be here in the morning, any tips on how I should go about reformatting? I always have OEM windows, I'll likely have to call Microsoft correct?
i5-3570kParts list again?
twitch.tv/PandaSC ?