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"I need a New PC!" 2012 Thread. 22nm+28nm, Tri-Gate, and reading the OP. [Part 1]
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Costcosaurus
Banned
For the Samsung it's the EcoGreen version right?
Yes, the 5400rpm version for $120 on newegg
Alister_McCalister
Neo Member
Hey everyone, new to the thread so I apologize if I missed an easy explanation.
I want to upgrade my video card. I've read the OP, but wanted to ask anyway just in case there would be some news about good buys, or if I should just wait for prices to drop in general. I can spend up to 300, but would like to keep it to 250 or so.
My specs are:
AMD Phenom II X6 1090T 3.2GHz
8 Gigs of Ram
AMD HD5700 Series Video Card
I want to upgrade my video card. I've read the OP, but wanted to ask anyway just in case there would be some news about good buys, or if I should just wait for prices to drop in general. I can spend up to 300, but would like to keep it to 250 or so.
My specs are:
AMD Phenom II X6 1090T 3.2GHz
8 Gigs of Ram
AMD HD5700 Series Video Card
When ordering SSD I got, by misstake, the more expensive Samsung 830-series MZ-7PC128D instead of the MZ-7PC128B.
Anyone know the difference? Google couldn't help me.
N = notebook version (with extra stuff like usb cable)
D = desktop version (with 3½ tray)
B = bulk version (no extra)
First google hit under the string "Samsung 830 B and D"
7850 or 660ti if that comes out next month
N = notebook version (with extra stuff like usb cable)
D = desktop version (with 3½ tray)
B = bulk version (no extra)
First google hit under the string "Samsung 830 B and D"
Thanks man, I guess my search string wasn't as refined as yours!
Made a quick video on that rattle or grinding noise from my H100, http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=eQsoX8CLWNk it's starting to get on my tits - Hopefully my voltage droppers will be here soon and hopefully they also work.
EDIT: Aaaand I just checked my mailbox, voltage droppers have arrived and they worked like a charm - PC is silent again.
EDIT: Aaaand I just checked my mailbox, voltage droppers have arrived and they worked like a charm - PC is silent again.
CoachKevin
Member
OK so I placed my order for parts last night.
I have an extra 128GB INtel SSD not being used. How would I go about utilizing that in the new PC? Make that the primary HD and instal Windows 7 and some games on it?
I have an extra 128GB INtel SSD not being used. How would I go about utilizing that in the new PC? Make that the primary HD and instal Windows 7 and some games on it?
Absolutely. Make the SSD your OS drive, maybe throw a few disk-intensive games on it, if you want. Then put everything else on a standard HDD.
If you use Steam look into Steam Mover. It moves Steam games (any software really) between HDDs.
It works most of the time. Steam Mover has successfully transferred 3/4 games I've attempted (Dead Island being the one that wouldn't cooperate). I even used it to move League of Legends.
I installed Steam to my SSD, but I wish I had placed it on my mechanical drive instead...
BackwardsSuggestions
Member
I have a 3D monitor but it doesn't seem to be 120hz. Is that possible?
I'm assuming this is because of space constraints, out of interest which size of ssd would you be comfortable installing steam to?
CoachKevin
Member
So I can just keep Steam and its games installed on the 2TB drive right? Might just keep the SSD for OS and apps.
I have a 128gb, probably a 256gb one would give me peace of mind.
I just prefer to have most of my games (ones with relatively short load times any ways) on my other HDD.
I tend to buy a lot on Steam (especially right now) so I end up having a lot of games installed. With Steam Mover I can probably move a lot them over easily, but it's the ones like Dead Island, which bug out, that I will have to either let sit on the SSD, or just uninstall them entirely when I'm done.
Yes. When I can I only leave a few games on the SSD. DOTA 2 being one and Dead Island.
Actually in Dead Island's case the SSD is rather beneficial since the game is so poorly optimized it can have unbearable load times.
I just bought Left 4 Dead 2 and put it on my mechanical HDD and it loads very quickly, most likely because it is a well optimized game.
Also, when I had LoL on my SSD it didn't seem to benefit much when loading. No idea why on that one.
Yes, it could be a passive 3D screen
And what's the process for updating drivers? Should I uninstall first and then apply new driver or would the new driver recognize a previous version is install and override?
I have two questions I'm hoping someone can help with, regarding going after the cheapest of 1,000 builds from the OP.
Is a heatsink necessary? I don't plan on over clocking so I'm wondering if it's needed. Second question is if I don't have quite the scratch to get the 7950 (what I'
d prefer) atm, will I be okay just using my 4870 till I can? Games like the Witcher 2 and Human Revolution have to be run on pretty low setting atm, but I'm wondering if that has more to do with my old processor. I know I won't get the boost i really want til I upgrade, though.
Is a heatsink necessary? I don't plan on over clocking so I'm wondering if it's needed. Second question is if I don't have quite the scratch to get the 7950 (what I'
d prefer) atm, will I be okay just using my 4870 till I can? Games like the Witcher 2 and Human Revolution have to be run on pretty low setting atm, but I'm wondering if that has more to do with my old processor. I know I won't get the boost i really want til I upgrade, though.
Guys I need help deciding which ram to get.
What I have on the way:-
Asus P8Z77-V Premium Motherboard
What I will be ordering:-
i5-3570K CPU
Ram
I have a Noctua NH-D14 and a Coolermaster HAF-X case so with ram size fitting in mind.
I will be ocing hopefully between 4/4.5ghz. So with that in mind which ram should I get, 1600mhz or above?
Also can I use my previous ram? its Corsair triple channel 6GB total.
What I have on the way:-
Asus P8Z77-V Premium Motherboard
What I will be ordering:-
i5-3570K CPU
Ram
I have a Noctua NH-D14 and a Coolermaster HAF-X case so with ram size fitting in mind.
I will be ocing hopefully between 4/4.5ghz. So with that in mind which ram should I get, 1600mhz or above?
Also can I use my previous ram? its Corsair triple channel 6GB total.
You need a Dual Link DVI or Displayport depending on your monitor model to display 120hz. DVI-I, DVI-D, VGA, and HDMI will not display at 120hz. Check that first.
doubt it
I've got 2 Samsung 830 256 GB in RAID-0 since a couple of days and, while it eats up any benchmark out there with ease (~1000 mb/s seq read), it doesn't really feel noticeable faster than my 2009 Intel 80 GB (~220 mb/s seq read) in terms of loading games (so far at least). Maybe it makes a difference in games that really load a lot of data, but to be honest I can't remember any game taking noticeably more than a few seconds to load on the old Intel drive
hell as long as all games still use 32-bit executables and are thus limited in the amount of memory they can use, I doubt there are games that load so much data that RAID-0 will make a difference compared to the regular Samsung 830 (which is already damn fast of course)
not that I expected it to be faster, I mainly got the second because it was on a special offer for a limited time and because I didn't want to worry anymore about putting Steam/Origin on my SSD for the next couple of years
Quadrophenic
Member
CambriaRising
Member
I don't think so, 3.0 ports are backwards compatible.
That's the one I have and it is spectacular.
internal connectors for 3.0 and 2.0 are physically different from each other ... the USB3.0 is usually near the ATX 24-pin power plug, and the 2.0 ports are usually on the bottom of the board near the I/O panel pins
if you have a recent board I'd say it's probably just a typo
Anyone? All i need is these questions sorted and I'm good to go...I think.
It's a great card and more most I'd say so. eVGA does good on their warranty and with a 680 PCB and how low power the 670 is the blower style isn't that bad.
I'd still go for the GB, ASUS, or MSI though personally.
Stock Heatsink is ok.
If you are waiting on 7950 money might want to wait a bit and see when the GTX 660 is coming out as well.
Thanks. I've never had a GTX before. Would it be that much improved over the 7950? I was gonna try and wait till it came down to maybe 275 or something.
No. Games are designed and/or need to load up that much data at a time. The only real difference you notice between SSD vs HDD is because of the big difference in seek time. Adding more SDD in Raid won't improve that.
Hopefully it comes out in around a month at the $300 price point. Give some competition there.
I think I figured it out. The case came with an adapter to connect the 3.0 cable coming from the front to the standard 2.0 connector at the bottom of the board. Everything seems to be doing fine (it's just for a mouse to extend the reach), so I'll call it good.
ipitydatfu
Member
yea they barely stick out over the ram slots. crazy
Should I go with those over the Corsair Vengeance?
PalaceBrother
Member
Hey Gaf, stupid question for you.
I've been given a 4 SATA hard drives I'd like to attach to my tower for backup. I haven't hooked up a new hard drive since the IDE days so the cables are foreign to me. Is there an easy guide to doing this? Alternatively are there any readily available (and inexpensive) enclosures I could use to set up some RAID or mirroring? I'm mostly looking to have things like my iTunes library & family photos backed up.
Apologies if this isn't the thread to ask in!
I've been given a 4 SATA hard drives I'd like to attach to my tower for backup. I haven't hooked up a new hard drive since the IDE days so the cables are foreign to me. Is there an easy guide to doing this? Alternatively are there any readily available (and inexpensive) enclosures I could use to set up some RAID or mirroring? I'm mostly looking to have things like my iTunes library & family photos backed up.
Apologies if this isn't the thread to ask in!
After having my new PC for roughly 2 months, I just decided to try my hand at overclocking the 2500k in my rig. I've never overclocked a CPU before most if not all of the values are somewhat foreign to me. I've upped the multiplier from 33 to 45 and I've bumped the turbo voltage to +0,051 (after the standard value gave me a blue screen).
I'm currently running a test in prime 95 and these are the stats that I'm getting.
Are these acceptable? Would I be better off scaling it back a bit?
I'm currently running a test in prime 95 and these are the stats that I'm getting.
Are these acceptable? Would I be better off scaling it back a bit?
They aren't listed in the OP due to 98%+ of people who aren't going to use them.
If you don't plan on doing a ton of video encoding or benchmarking and overclocking these will be a tiny touch slower. RAM performance is super negligible.
They go OOS often enough as well.
Software mirror on USB Externals? How many SATA ports do you have open on your motherboard? Do you want an internal PCI-E card for hardware RAID? Have enough power connectors? What about HDD slots in your case?
Those are very nice clocks if it's stable. I see 75% load. Run Small FTT in Prime 95 with 4 workers and see if it's stable.After having my new PC for roughly 2 months, I just decided to try my hand at overclocking the 2500k in my rig. I've never overclocked a CPU before most if not all of the values are somewhat foreign to me. I've upped the multiplier from 33 to 45 and I've bumped the turbo voltage to +0,051 (after the standard value gave me a blue screen).
I'm currently running a test in prime 95 and these are the stats that I'm getting.
Are these acceptable? Would I be better off scaling it back a bit?
PalaceBrother
Member
Good questions that I don't know how to answer. I'm embarrassed to say that I really don't know how to identify the HDD capacity of my main board any more.
The first thing I did when opening it up was to find master/slave jumpers on the drive. That's when I realized things had moved on substantially.
Thanks for the quick response. I'm currently running the small FTT (100% load) in Prime 95 and half an hour in everything seems stable so far.
How much RAM were you planning on going with? The biggest benefit of X79 (2011 socket) boards for video work isn't actually the ability to use hex-core processors (although that helps), but the max RAM of 64GB compared to 32GB on Z77 (1155 socket) boards. When it comes to video editing, more RAM is always better, but of course there's no point going with an X79 board and hex-core processor if you don't have any money left to put a decent amount of RAM in there, and if your budget is tight it would probably be worth going with a 3770K and 16GB/32GB of RAM rather than a 3930K and only 8GB or so. Also, whichever way you're going, make sure to use 8GB DIMMs of RAM rather than 4GB DIMMs, as it leaves more slots open for future upgrades.
Also make sure you have a good SSD (size dependent on how big the projects you'll be working on are), and if you're going to be working on very large projects it might be worth getting a motherboard with Thunderbolt to allow you to use fast external RAID arrays (which are expensive now, but should come down in price quite a bit over the next few years).
I'd run under 1.325V for sure.My i5 is much more worse then
Core voltage is set to 1.37 in BIOS settings.
That's too high imo
My i5 was pretty 'bad'. Had to do 4.2 on 1.31V
I'm like 99.99% sure that at 1.325 it won't even boot.
Was 1.360 yesterday but it gave me BSODs under The Witcher 2. And because of the settings allowing the CoreV to go higher, my CV can go as high as 1.400.
I'm starting to feel I have no control over what amount of juice the mobo is giving to the processor.
And oh yes, since i started prime 95 30 minutes ago, max temp rose to:
73
79
79
77
GalacticGravy
Member
I would love to upgrade my PC but I have this recurring issue with PCs. The last 2 I built heat my room up to ungodly temperatures. It's to the point that, even with my AC on, I'm still sweating in my room. It finally got hot here in New York and I haven't turned my PC on in days because I know I'll be sweating. Sucks because I really want to finish Q.U.B.E.
How can I have a PC capable of gaming without it literally making me sweat in my air conditioned, 14x14 room. What do I look for in parts? How can I make sure that it will run cool? I'm willing to take a performance hit. I don't play most super new games. I play a lot of indie titles, occasional Starcraft II or Diablo III, and I also use Adobe Photoshop and Adobe Premiere CS5 to do some work on.
Part of me wants to buy a mac mini or something that I know runs super cool, and use that for 90% of my needs. Or maybe a gaming quality laptop? I've always been opposed to those, but I'm at my wits end here.
Please don't tell me to use "liquid cooling" as everyone does. Refer to the laws of thermodynamics to understand why that won't fix my issue.
How can I have a PC capable of gaming without it literally making me sweat in my air conditioned, 14x14 room. What do I look for in parts? How can I make sure that it will run cool? I'm willing to take a performance hit. I don't play most super new games. I play a lot of indie titles, occasional Starcraft II or Diablo III, and I also use Adobe Photoshop and Adobe Premiere CS5 to do some work on.
Part of me wants to buy a mac mini or something that I know runs super cool, and use that for 90% of my needs. Or maybe a gaming quality laptop? I've always been opposed to those, but I'm at my wits end here.
Please don't tell me to use "liquid cooling" as everyone does. Refer to the laws of thermodynamics to understand why that won't fix my issue.
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