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"I need a New PC!" 2012 Thread. 22nm+28nm, Tri-Gate, and reading the OP. [Part 1]

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C

cametall

Member
GalacticGravy
Click to expand...

I had a PC that heated up my room too (it's a much larger room than yours). My new one, which is much more up to date than the old one actually doesn't appear to affect the temperature in the room.

I really think the key in my case is the closed liquid cooler (Corsair H60) I have. My CPU is OC'd too.

I could be entirely wrong but it is night and day between my old and new PC when it comes to temps and heating up the room. I live in South Florida btw.

Monarch said:
I'm like 99.99% sure that at 1.325 it won't even boot.
Was 1.360 yesterday but it gave me BSODs under The Witcher 2. And because of the settings allowing the CoreV to go higher, my CV can go as high as 1.400.
I'm starting to feel I have no control over what amount of juice the mobo is giving to the processor.

And oh yes, since i started prime 95 30 minutes ago, max temp rose to:
73
79
79
77
Click to expand...

Could Vdroop be causing the problem? I know it does for me at times when I reduce my Vcore.
 
M

mkenyon

Banned
cametall said:
I had a PC that heated up my room too (it's a much larger room than yours). My new one, which is much more up to date than the old one actually doesn't appear to affect the temperature in the room.

I really think the key in my case is the closed liquid cooler (Corsair H60) I have. My CPU is OC'd too.
Click to expand...
Dissipated watts is dissipated watts is dissipated watts. Could be the place in which it is now exhausting heat is different so maybe you feel like you don't notice it as much.

*edit*
Sorry about double post.
 
H

hypernima

Banned
Thraktor said:
How much RAM were you planning on going with? The biggest benefit of X79 (2011 socket) boards for video work isn't actually the ability to use hex-core processors (although that helps), but the max RAM of 64GB compared to 32GB on Z77 (1155 socket) boards. When it comes to video editing, more RAM is always better, but of course there's no point going with an X79 board and hex-core processor if you don't have any money left to put a decent amount of RAM in there, and if your budget is tight it would probably be worth going with a 3770K and 16GB/32GB of RAM rather than a 3930K and only 8GB or so. Also, whichever way you're going, make sure to use 8GB DIMMs of RAM rather than 4GB DIMMs, as it leaves more slots open for future upgrades.

Also make sure you have a good SSD (size dependent on how big the projects you'll be working on are), and if you're going to be working on very large projects it might be worth getting a motherboard with Thunderbolt to allow you to use fast external RAID arrays (which are expensive now, but should come down in price quite a bit over the next few years).
Click to expand...

Well I have a 128gb ssd so far and I'm buying a 500gb caviar because it should last me this semester. My plan is to get an extreme6 if it drops in price again. If not I'm getting an extreme4 with 16gbs of ram to start with a 3820
 
K

knitoe

Member
GalacticGravy said:
I would love to upgrade my PC but I have this recurring issue with PCs. The last 2 I built heat my room up to ungodly temperatures. It's to the point that, even with my AC on, I'm still sweating in my room. It finally got hot here in New York and I haven't turned my PC on in days because I know I'll be sweating. Sucks because I really want to finish Q.U.B.E.

How can I have a PC capable of gaming without it literally making me sweat in my air conditioned, 14x14 room. What do I look for in parts? How can I make sure that it will run cool? I'm willing to take a performance hit. I don't play most super new games. I play a lot of indie titles, occasional Starcraft II or Diablo III, and I also use Adobe Photoshop and Adobe Premiere CS5 to do some work on.

Part of me wants to buy a mac mini or something that I know runs super cool, and use that for 90% of my needs. Or maybe a gaming quality laptop? I've always been opposed to those, but I'm at my wits end here.

Please don't tell me to use "liquid cooling" as everyone does. Refer to the laws of thermodynamics to understand why that won't fix my issue.
Click to expand...
Things that generate most of heat in PCs are the video card, CPU, MB and PSU. With video cards, look for reviews and pick the one that offers the performance/heat that best fits you needs. In you case, might be low or mid cards. Generally, recent CPUs runs much cooler, especially if not overclocking, so they are easier to deal with. As for PSU, they are most efficient at 50-60% load. The higher the load / stress on the PSU the more heat generated. Thus, pick a PSU 2X what you need. Finally, picking the right MB would be the hardest part since many reviews don't mention how much heat they generate. I would assume the more highend/better build quality would generate less heat if running at stock since they are design to be stress and more stable at higher overclock speeds, but that's just my assumption.
 
C

cametall

Member
mkenyon said:
Dissipated watts is dissipated watts is dissipated watts. Could be the place in which it is now exhausting heat is different so maybe you feel like you don't notice it as much.*edit*
Sorry about double post.
Click to expand...

I figure that is a big factor. PSU doesn't exhaust or pull air into/from inside the case. The CPU heat exhausts out of the top. Putting my hand over the top exhaust the air is fairly cool.

Old PC was fairly enclosed. Air in the front, out the back. Could probably heat up a large room.
 
M

Monarch

Banned
cametall said:
I had a PC that heated up my room too (it's a much larger room than yours). My new one, which is much more up to date than the old one actually doesn't appear to affect the temperature in the room.

I really think the key in my case is the closed liquid cooler (Corsair H60) I have. My CPU is OC'd too.

I could be entirely wrong but it is night and day between my old and new PC when it comes to temps and heating up the room. I live in South Florida btw.



Could Vdroop be causing the problem? I know it does for me at times when I reduce my Vcore.
Click to expand...

What's Vdrop exactly ?
Right now i'm trying to make some undervoltage, see if it holps up
 
H

hey_it's_that_dog

benevolent sexism
Can anyone recommend a relatively low-powered, cheap, and near-silent graphics card (I guess fanless is what I'm looking for)? I'm giving my old PC to my wife and she's not going to need much GPU horsepower, but the quieter the better.
 
M

mkenyon

Banned
hey_it's_that_dog said:
Cool, thanks.

Do fanless cards produce a substantial amount of heat? Enough heat to make the other fans work harder (and louder)?
Click to expand...
Thermal design power is the total amount of energy that will need to be dissipated, no matter the way in which it is dissipated. Low power cards will all put off different heat, it's just that passive is less efficient.

Think about leaving your oven turned on with the entire door open as opposed to leaving it on with it cracked.

What about using the onboard?
 
N

n0n44m

Member
GalacticGravy said:
Please don't tell me to use "liquid cooling" as everyone does. Refer to the laws of thermodynamics to understand why that won't fix my issue.
Click to expand...

assuming you got about $1500 to throw away; just do like me, liquid cool EVERYTING with an external radiator you place in another room ;)

can't put it in another room unfortunately and with all the rain I can't open my windows so my room is still heating up despite this being one of the worst/coolest summers EVER lol

2012-07-1202.28.05p2bkgjk1.jpg


Other than that I'd say get a nice small mITX rig (Bitfenix Prodigy with that new Asus board?) with an Intel core i5/i7 and try to downvolt that as much as possible at stock/slightly overclocked speeds. Stick an 7850/7870 in it and downvolt it as well and you've got pretty much the most energy efficient setup possible. Make sure you get a platinum rated PSU, probably in the 550W~650W range

but just for comparison, what is your current system? ever hooked it up to some kill-a-watt type thing and checked its power usage? did you already try to downvolt/underclock it to decrease heat production?
 
M

mkenyon

Banned
I love your system, but something about external radiators just makes me go bonkers (as in, hate them).

Probably because I go to LANs fairly often.
 
C

cametall

Member
Monarch said:
What's Vdrop exactly ?
Right now i'm trying to make some undervoltage, see if it holps up
Click to expand...

It reduces the voltage being sent to the CPU. I don't fully understand it, but I know it reduces your vcore and is bad for overclocking at times, since your 1.21v can actually become 1.92 due to vdroop.

EDIT: Does Firefox not mix well with SSDs or something? Ever since I set up my SSD Firefox will sometimes just randomly lock up.
 
N

n0n44m

Member
mkenyon said:
I love your system, but something about external radiators just makes me go bonkers (as in, hate them).

Probably because I go to LANs fairly often.
Click to expand...

that's why there are Bitspower Fillports + Koolance Quick-Disconnects ;) everything separated in less than 30 seconds. Hell you could even make a second set of external tubing that's shorter just for LANs ^^

and I can use it as a heater in winter ... just ran Furmark and the Aquaero calculated 400W of heat between entering and exiting the blocks in the loop ... sure felt like that lol

--------

So how does your GTX690 perform in Tribes / BF3 ? My 670s SLI are pretty close to perfect 99% GPU usage in Heaven/3Dmark/BF3 single player, but in BF3 Multi and Tribes Ascend GPU usage hovers mostly around the 80% mark :/

BF3 performance is still great (80+ fps when on low usage, usually 120+ fps) but this is apparently some issue with BF3 or the latest patch or something

however Tribes Ascend is even worse, drops to ~60 fps at times (from the 122 achieved with the frame smoothing .ini edit) for no obvious reason. GPU usage on the cards is less than 50% whenever that happens, but then again even at the 122 fps limit they barely have to work... 2600K @ 4.8/5.0 shouldn't be the issue right?

tested with the latest two beta's and the latest WHQL drivers btw

cametall said:
It reduces the voltage being sent to the CPU. I don't fully understand it, but I know it reduces your vcore and is bad for overclocking at times, since your 1.21v can actually become 1.92 due to vdroop.
Click to expand...

Vdroop is basically the amount that voltage drops under (high) load, due to issues such as PSU and VRM quality. There's always some Vdroop, it's just that better quality motherboards with more VRM phases are less effected.

to counter Vdroop you have certain bios settings such as Load Line Calibration (LLC, for Asus boards) which reduce this effect by increasing the voltage under load

for Sandy/Ivy Bridge in general I advise against using LLC when using the +/- offset or automatic voltage, as it can lead to some weird voltage results (I've had 1.55+v on an offset that normally gives me 1.4). LLC is mostly useful for extreme overclocking/benchmarking with fixed voltages, but for daily usage I'd just use offset mode (with C1E enabled for downclocking), and then increase the offset a bit if I suspect the voltage drops too much

better to use offset and run a tiny bit more voltage on the 1600 Mhz idle (still below regular load voltage) than to use LLC and pump massive voltage under load/high temperatures ... (and over 1.35v is not really recommended for air cooled systems)
 
S

Smokey

Member
It's always hit or miss with online titles when it comes to GPU usage. I've learned to accept it. I also had issues with BF3 GPU usage when I was running 580 SLI, but I don't really have any with my 690. Most of the time both GPUs are around the 96%-98% range. Some times it goes lower. Could be that my resolution is also causing the usage to stay higher. When I go back to my 120hz monitor sometime I notice my usage isn't quite as high but I'm still getting 100+ fps so in the end I TRY not to worry about usage too much unless it's to the point where the game is noticeably performing under par.
 
H

hey_it's_that_dog

benevolent sexism
mkenyon said:
Thermal design power is the total amount of energy that will need to be dissipated, no matter the way in which it is dissipated. Low power cards will all put off different heat, it's just that passive is less efficient.

Think about leaving your oven turned on with the entire door open as opposed to leaving it on with it cracked.

What about using the onboard?
Click to expand...

I would but I don't think the ASUS P5N-E SLI LGA 775 has an onboard video card.
 
M

mkenyon

Banned
T:A is so horribly unoptimized. TBH, we all use a PicMip type config that reduces the graphics to almost minecraft levels (not really, but you get the idea). It's the only way that we could keep a solid 120FPS no matter what.

It's on a map-by-map basis as far as consistency goes. There's a place on Arx Novena, that even with the super low settings, would drop to 80-90 if you look through the aqueducts instead of at the base.

Also, SLI profiles weren't added till the latest beta drivers, which you did say you had. Before it requried 'alternate frame rendering 2' to actually get decent FPS.

*edit*

As Smokey said, GPU usage is all over the board. I haven't met a game I can't get 120FPS at though. That's all I'm really aiming for.
 
H

Hazaro

relies on auto-aim
Monarch said:
I'm like 99.99% sure that at 1.325 it won't even boot.
Was 1.360 yesterday but it gave me BSODs under The Witcher 2. And because of the settings allowing the CoreV to go higher, my CV can go as high as 1.400.
I'm starting to feel I have no control over what amount of juice the mobo is giving to the processor.

And oh yes, since i started prime 95 30 minutes ago, max temp rose to:
73
79
79
77
Click to expand...
Reseat your heatsink.
Take your CPU off auto voltage and scale back your OC to 4.0 or 4.2 if you have not already.
 
N

n0n44m

Member
hmm I think Tribes runs better at certain maps with SLI disabled, but that is such a PITA to enable/disable every time :(

BF3 runs fine with SLI, it's just that sometimes it drops from 120 to 90 when you're staring at a wall in a particular spot ... weird but whatever
 
M

mkenyon

Banned
cametall said:
Fresh reinstall, to avoid these kinds of issues...
Click to expand...
I spose a better question is: why the hell are you using Firefox instead of Chrome? :p

Costcosaurus said:
I'm not sure whether to buy a new hard drive and an SSD or just a new hard drive.

I heard SSDs are great, but I'm not sure if I really need one.
Click to expand...
It makes it so everything is pretty much instant. Total luxury, not essential.

That being said, I can't imagine being without one. Have it in every computer I use, even upgraded all of our office PC's with small ones.

With the way that media consumption and everything is changing, I think the way to go is with a NAS/FreeNAS or Fileserver, itx tiny HTPC with small SSD, and then gaming/multimedia rig (or two or three depending). Thats more if you are into creating an ecosystem if you have tons of electronic devices.
 
V

Veal

Member
I have a quick question about overclocking and PSU's. My new machine is finally coming together, and I want to get a smaller PSU than the one I got last time. Would this PSU be sufficient for OCing a i5 3570k (to around 4.5GHZ) and a GTX 670?
 
M

MrBig

Member
cametall said:
EDIT: Does Firefox not mix well with SSDs or something? Ever since I set up my SSD Firefox will sometimes just randomly lock up.
Click to expand...

I updated flash today and I'm getting non stop crashes/locks in FF. Couldn't install an older version so I'm using chrome as my main browser until an update is out
 
M

mkenyon

Banned
Veal said:
I have a quick question about overclocking and PSU's. My new machine is finally coming together, and I want to get a smaller PSU than the one I got last time. Would this PSU be sufficient for OCing a i5 3570k (to around 4.5GHZ) and a GTX 670?
Click to expand...
Yes, but it's pushing it. So you know, if you have a 650W PSU and a total system draw of 320W, you only use 320W. However, PSU's become horribly inefficient when you ask for more than 80% of it's total rating. That's what the 'bronze', 'gold', 'silver', 'platinum' ratings are based on. Its like, if system draw < 80% of rated watts then % efficiency = rating.

So, if you want to have the most efficient system possible, you want a PSU that will put the draw at less than 80% with a high 80PLUS rating.
 
H

Hazaro

relies on auto-aim
Veal said:
I have a quick question about overclocking and PSU's. My new machine is finally coming together, and I want to get a smaller PSU than the one I got last time. Would this PSU be sufficient for OCing a i5 3570k (to around 4.5GHZ) and a GTX 670?
Click to expand...
Easily. 100% fine with headroom to spare. Great unit.

There's no point in getting a 'smaller' unit unless you want to save upfront cost though. Computer uses what it wants, not what the PSU says.
mkenyon said:
Yes, but it's pushing it. So you know, if you have a 650W PSU and a total system draw of 320W, you only use 320W. However, PSU's become horribly inefficient when you ask for more than 80% of it's total rating. That's what the 'bronze', 'gold', 'silver', 'platinum' ratings are based on. Its like, if system draw < 80% of rated watts then % efficiency = rating.

So, if you want to have the most efficient system possible, you want a PSU that will put the draw at less than 80% with a high 80PLUS rating.
Click to expand...
It's a IB quad and a 670. Those things sip power, come on.
That Seasonic unit is fantastic. It's stays above 80% eff. even overloaded to 575W, and just gets better underload near max.

Generic PSU wise I'd agree on what you said, but the bottom entry stuff has gotten tons better.
 
I

I H8 Memes

Member
Hey GAF, a friend of mine is looking for an IPS monitor to do some picture editing on but also gaming. Right now he was deciding between these two. But I told him to let me ask the experts at NeoGAF for their opinion between the two, or if there is a better option out there around in his price range or a little higher.

These are what he was already looking at.

http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16824236119

http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16824260020

Any opinions or maybe suggestions on a better monitor?
 
H

Hazaro

relies on auto-aim
I H8 Memes said:
Hey GAF, a friend of mine is looking for an IPS monitor to do some picture editing on but also gaming. Right now he was deciding between these two. But I told him to let me ask the experts at NeoGAF for their opinion between the two, or if there is a better option out there around in his price range or a little higher.

These are what he was already looking at.

http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16824236119

http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16824260020

Any opinions or maybe suggestions on a better monitor?
Click to expand...
Also gaming?
Hope he has a beast GPU: http://www.ebay.com/itm/CROSSOVER-2...2189?pt=Computer_Monitors&hash=item1c27cbf4cd

Honestly I have no idea since you probably want to keep the resolution down.
Costcosaurus said:
What size SSD and which specific ones do you guys recommend I should pair up with a Samsung F4 EcoGreen 2TB hard drive?
Click to expand...
Depends what you need it for. 120/128GB are good sizes. m4/830 like the op says
 
G

GalacticGravy

Member
but just for comparison, what is your current system? ever hooked it up to some kill-a-watt type thing and checked its power usage? did you already try to downvolt/underclock it to decrease heat production?
Click to expand...


I just got a kill-a-watt about a week ago. I'll hook it up and see what the deal is. Also I haven't underclocked anything. I have enough technical capability to put together a PC and fix them regularly, but that wasn't something I ever got to. The issue seems to be the PSU/Video card/CPU working in tandem to turn my room into a volcano. I took a look at that Prodigy case and some ITX mobos and it looks interesting. I'll do some more research and see.
 
H

Hazaro

relies on auto-aim
Costcosaurus said:
Would this one be fine?

http://www.amazon.com/dp/B004W2JKZI/?tag=neogaf0e-20

I also have to buy a 3.5 inch converter, right?
Click to expand...
Holder if you want. You can let it rest or dangle or tape it. Doesn't matter.
I H8 Memes said:
GTX 670's in SLI. 4GB's total memory between the 2 videocards.

Are those the rejected Apple monitors? Seems people here were posting something about them dieing fast.
Click to expand...
I'm not well versed, just know people rec. that as a cheaper giant res monitor.
You can read 166 pages here if you want: http://www.overclock.net/t/1232496/...-p-27m-led-2720mdp-gold-led-monitor-club/1650
 
M

MrBig

Member
I H8 Memes said:
GTX 670's in SLI. 4GB's total memory between the 2 videocards.

Are those the rejected Apple monitors? Seems people here were posting something about them dieing fast.
Click to expand...

Failure rate on them is the same as any other monitor, the problem is there is no manufacturer warranty, only seller. Them being rejected apple monitors does not mean they are bad panels, but that they are A rather than A+, which they could be labeled as for insignificant tinting issues (something that often gets through LG's screening and makes it to Apple anyway), an uneven backlight that is unnoticeable to the human eye, and other small things. The construction of the Crossover makes it less susceptible to damage during shipping, which is where the vast majority of bad panels incurred their damage. I've used mine for painting and gaming for over a month; it's flawless.
 
H

Hazaro

relies on auto-aim
Sissel said:
Can anyone recommend a ~$200 monitor? Going to have to replace this 4 year old Dell.
Click to expand...
Both of ASUS's 24" LCD models are on sale if you don't need anything fancy.

old: http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16824236052
new: http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16824236049

Cheaper has slightly slower response (but still good) and bit smaller from what I can tell.
My monitor shopping is basically to see what is cheap. Haven't had the IPS, E-IPS, or 120Hz bug bite me yet.
 
C

Costcosaurus

Banned
Hazaro said:
Both of ASUS's 24" LCD models are on sale if you don't need anything fancy.

old: http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16824236052
new: http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16824236049

Cheaper has slightly slower response (but still good) and bit smaller from what I can tell.
My monitor shopping is basically to see what is cheap. Haven't had the IPS, E-IPS, or 120Hz bug bite me yet.
Click to expand...

I bought the 23.6 inch one and I'm pretty happy with it. Loading time from turning on the monitor after it has been off literally took forever on my old monitor which was an Acer, but now for this Asus one, it's less than a second to bring up my screen when I turn it on, lol.
 
M

Marty Chinn

Member
Hopefully someone here can help me.

I'm running an Alienware X51 with the following specs:

Intel Core i5-2320
Sapphire Radeon 7870
2x4GB DDR3-1333

The problem is that on rare occasions I'm getting a signal loss when hooked up to my HDTV. I've tried swapping HDMI cables, but it still happened. I tried a different input on the TV, but it also still happened. If it were to happen, it usually would be when playing a game; so far doesn't seem to matter which game. I don't think it's overheating based on when I see it happens. I can play a game for an hour and nothing, but sometimes I'll play something else and it will happen in 15 min. Plus, the computer doesn't shut off; it's just video ceases. Interestingly enough, I tried to hook headphones up to the headphone jack after a signal loss and there isn't any audio coming out either if that's a sign of something.

Can anyone suggest what might be the problem, or how I can proceed to try to figure out what the problem might be? Any type of logging tools I might be able to use or maybe someone just knows the likely cause of the issue. Any help, advice, or request for further info would be greatly appreciated. Thanks.
 
D

Danielsan

Member
Another quick question on my part. Today I received my new monitor, a Samsung S27B370H. The idea was to hook the monitor up via VGA. My graphics card (Saphire Radeon 7850 OC) has an HDMI-out and DVI out and it want to use the HDMI out for my TV in the living room. So I used the DVI to VGA adapter that came with the card and the vga cable that came with the monitor and hooked it up to my PC. Everything works as expected, except when I start up a game. I notice these minor scan lines going through the screen, which are mostly prevalent in darker sections. I noticed these scan lines on my old monitor as well, but that was an old shitty Packard Bell LCD monitor, so I figured the issue lay with the screen back then. So I hooked up the new monitor to the HDMI out and scan lines are gone. The issue obiously lies with either the DVI port on my graphics card, or the DVI to VGA adapter. Would it be worth it to try a DVI to VGA cable and cut out the adapter in the middle?
 
M

Monarch

Banned
Okay so I reseted my bios to default so no option I don't know of is checked.
The i5 is running at 4Ghz with 1.20v (max 1.208 under CPU-Z).
Max temps after 45 minutes are:
57
61
62
60

That's more like it :)
Now let's push a bit more, I'm trying to achieve 4.5Ghz stable, and not too hot. And Hazaro, I don't think my Noctua heatsink is badly mounted or anything. 28°-30°C at idle at 4Ghz is cool enough right :p ?
 
N

n0n44m

Member
Danielsan said:
Another quick question on my part. Today I received my new monitor, a Samsung S27B370H. The idea was to hook the monitor up via VGA. My graphics card (Saphire Radeon 7850 OC) has an HDMI-out and DVI out and it want to use the HDMI out for my TV in the living room. So I used the DVI to VGA adapter that came with the card and the vga cable that came with the monitor and hooked it up to my PC. Everything works as expected, except when I start up a game. I notice these minor scan lines going through the screen, which are mostly prevalent in darker sections. I noticed these scan lines on my old monitor as well, but that was an old shitty Packard Bell LCD monitor, so I figured the issue lay with the screen back then. So I hooked up the new monitor to the HDMI out and scan lines are gone. The issue obiously lies with either the DVI port on my graphics card, or the DVI to VGA adapter. Would it be worth it to try a DVI to VGA cable and cut out the adapter in the middle?
Click to expand...

get a HDMI->DVI cable from somewhere, VGA is terrible terrible terrible man :p

keep the signal clean (digital), use DVI

http://www.kabeltje.com/hdmi-dvi-vergulde-aansluitkabel-25-meter-pf-197.html nu bestellen morgen in huis

Monarch said:
Okay so I reseted my bios to default so no option I don't know of is checked.
The i5 is running at 4Ghz with 1.20v (max 1.208 under CPU-Z).
Max temps after 45 minutes are:
57
61
62
60

That's more like it :)
Now let's push a bit more, I'm trying to achieve 4.5Ghz stable, and not too hot. And Hazaro, I don't think my Noctua heatsink is badly mounted or anything. 28°-30°C at idle at 4Ghz is cool enough right :p ?
Click to expand...

yup that seems a lot better ... I'd try to keep max temps under 75c and voltage under 1.35v , but 4.5 GHz should be doable with those restrictions when using a Noctua HS
 
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