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[DarkChronic]

Have a super strange problem, hope this is the place to post it:

Recently bought new RAM (4Gx2, Gskill Ripjaw series) to replace my current 2Gx2 Gskill sticks. Installed the new RAM fine (computer recognized it, read 8 GIGS in the control panel.) However, it made my WIFI not work. I literally could not connect to my home WIFI signal. It picked up the signal, but it could not connect.

I installed my old RAM, and presto, the WIFI worked again. So it really was an issue with the RAM.

Has anyone ever heard of such an issue? Is there a fix for this? Did I receive faulty RAM? Not sure if I should return them for a different set, or what.

Thanks guys..

 

[mkenyon]

Up it a smidgen to like 1.26, then 1.27, etc.

Temps in the 70s are kosher.

I installed my old RAM, and presto, the WIFI worked again. So it really was an issue with the RAM.

I literally have no idea how such a thing is even possible. Though, I'm no electrical engineer.

 

[metalshade]

You won't worry about turbo if you're overclocking it.
Basically, lets say you are running a program that is stressing a single core of your CPU. This is fairly common, as most programs are still single threaded (meaning they only use one core). The processor detects this, so it downclocks the other cores and overclocks a single core, giving you better performance.
Overclocking does this same thing, but to a larger extent, and helps with games that use two or more threads, which is also really common. All UE3 games, for example, use two threads.

Gotcha.
Like you said, not to worry if overclocked.
Thanks for your help dude, this thread is absolutely indispensable to a novice like me, but thanks to it, and you guys, I am determined to learn as much as I can, and eventually, I wont have to pester you guys for trivialities lol.
Well, that's the theory....

 

[Costcosaurus]

CPU at 4.3, Voltage at 1.27:

The weird thing was that when I tried 1.26 first, it gave me the blue screen, but then when I tried 1.27, the above screenshot happened. Another 2 errors on Prime95, so I guess it's time to move down to 4.2.

 

[MrBig]

CPU at 4.3, Voltage at 1.27:



The weird thing was that when I tried 1.26 first, it gave me the blue screen, but then when I tried 1.27, the above screenshot happened. Another 2 errors on Prime95, so I guess it's time to move down to 4.2.

Looks like you've got a pretty huge vdroop if that's supposed to be 1.27. What is LLC set to?

 

[Costcosaurus]

Looks like you've got a pretty huge vdroop if that's supposed to be 1.27. What is LLC set to?

Never took that into consideration, so it's probably set on Auto.

Any recommendation on what to change that to?

 

[mkenyon]

Also: What cooler are you using?

Might be a bad mount if you have an aftermarket cooler.

 

[Costcosaurus]

Also: What cooler are you using?

Might be a bad mount if you have an aftermarket cooler.

CoolerMaster Hyper 212 Evo.

 

[mkenyon]

Yeah, might want to remount it.

 

[Costcosaurus]

Yeah, might want to remount it.

What do you mean remount it? How could I have possibly mounted my cooler wrong if it only fits one way?

 

[mkenyon]

Having consistent contact as well as properly spread thermal paste is hugely important to temperatures.

If one of the four corners was overtightened, or tightened too soon in comparison to the others, you would have an inconsistent mount. Look at the change in temperatures between the three mounts here.

When you take it off, first look at the TIM to make sure it was spread evenly. After cleaning with some isopropyl 90%+ alcohol or TIM cleaner, reapply with a small strip along the copper pipes where your cooler would contact your CPU (assuming the plate is like the regular 212).

When you go to tighten it, do it like you would a tire. Left top -> bottom right -> bottom left ->top right. Do not tighten any one side to the point where it's difficult until you get to the end of tightening all four. That last sentence is hard to understand probably, and I'm having difficulty trying to think of a way to say it more clearly.

 

[Zaraki_Kenpachi]

I thought you were going Z77?

Make sure to get some decent RAM to go with it, that Samsung stuff in specific. Otherwise, it'll be basically limited to 4.3Ghz

Gaming.

It also eliminates the need for Vsync, as frame tearing no longer exists. It's all around reducing input lag and possible hiccups, and having a consistent viewing experience. It's certainly high-end, but it's pretty simple to get 120FPS in most games these days even with mid-tier hardware.

Its scary, but yeah, it's hard. Just keep going, it's supposed to be that difficult.

Is it that common to get 120FPS? How much do you turn it down because my hardware isn't that old and I usually can't max out at 60fps let alone 120fps. I would think I would have to lower settings a decent amount to reach 120fps, especially at 1080P. And if the fps isn't that high it's a complete waste.

 

[metalshade]

Just had a thought, because my card (MSI HD 6870 OC AMD Radeon) seems to have more/other features than the standard 6870 AMD radeon card, should I get my drivers from MSI or from AMD?

 

[mkenyon]

If its a competitive game, I'll turn it down to whatever level required for 120FPS. Games like DoTA 2, Smite, Tribes: Ascend, CS:GO, CoD, Warsow, Q3A are all really easy to get to 120fps.

For single player games, it's not *as* important. But like I said, if you are getting 60+, you don't need to turn on vsync or do crazy tripple buffering type crap to get rid of tearing. That's one of the huge benefits.

Even if you aren't getting 120FPS, it still looks different. Hard to explain other than the stop motion vs. fluid movement example. Even desktop use is amazing. After staring at three 60hz monitors all day, when I go home and look at the 120hz, it's almost as if my eyes are thanking me. It's actually soothing.

Just had a thought, because my card (MSI HD 6870 OC AMD Radeon) seems to have more/other features than the standard 6870 AMD radeon card, should I get my drivers from MSI or from AMD?

AMD.

 

[kharma45]

Just had a thought, because my card (MSI HD 6870 OC AMD Radeon) seems to have more/other features than the standard 6870 AMD radeon card, should I get my drivers from MSI or from AMD?

AMD ones.

 

[Costcosaurus]

Having consistent contact as well as properly spread thermal paste is hugely important to temperatures.

If one of the four corners was overtightened, or tightened too soon in comparison to the others, you would have an inconsistent mount. Look at the change in temperatures between the three mounts here.

When you take it off, first look at the TIM to make sure it was spread evenly. After cleaning with some isopropyl 90%+ alcohol or TIM cleaner, reapply with a small strip along the copper pipes where your cooler would contact your CPU (assuming the plate is like the regular 212).

When you go to tighten it, do it like you would a tire. Left top -> bottom right -> bottom left ->top right. Do not tighten any one side to the point where it's difficult until you get to the end of tightening all four. That last sentence is hard to understand probably, and I'm having difficulty trying to think of a way to say it more clearly.

I really don't want to open up my computer case again, not even to fix one of my fans that is not spinning.

I've had way too much of a headache doing a good amount of cable management and mounting my SSD, so I'm just going to leave everything as is. I'll probably do some tests on 4.2 since 4.3 tests aren't looking good.

 

[mkenyon]

Double sided tape on SSDs

 

[CambriaRising]

Double sided tape on SSDs

I saw a picture of a guy who had them hidden in the nooks and crannies of his case so he could remove the HDD cage.

 

[Costcosaurus]

Never mind, fixed it.

My 4.2 overclock is only getting pushed to 4.18, and the voltage number is not exact either. Anyone know why?

 

[honorless]

GAF, I could use some advice. I think I have temperature problems.

Running Trine at 1680x1050 at medium settings for maybe a minute and a half, GPU-Z and Core Temp showed me at these temps:

GPU (Sapphire HD4870 1GB): 88c
CPU (i7-920): 93c/99c/87c/97c

Idle the GPU is around 78c and the CPU around 60c. Prime95 pretty much puts me at 99c across the board, though the system remains stable. But PixelJunk Eden locked up twice yesterday and during the Trine demo a few months back the computer shut off with no warning...so I'm thinking temps are an issue. Nothing is overclocked.

What are the most efficient steps I can take to lower temps? Silence is unimportant. My wallet would prefer that I replace/upgrade one part at a time, but I can easily afford big sweeping changes if needed.

The next planned upgrade was replacing the 4870 with a 7850. (I am keenly aware of how poor my current GPU's idle temps are.) Will this make dramatic improvements to the system overall, or should I push that off and try an aftermarket CPU cooler first?

The ambient room temperature ranges from 27-32c. Can't change this as it's summer and I don't have central air.

Case is a P-183 with a CP-850. I hear the P-183s are pretty starved for air but don't know if increasing airflow should be a big priority.
Power supply exhausts out the back, but the 4870 intakes from the back. Rear fan and top fan are exhausts, though the air coming out of the top is pretty cool. There's one intake fan (NZXT DF1202512SELN) in front. I stole it out of a case my fiancé had lying around so I have no idea whether it's okay or worthless crap that needs to be replaced.
Cable management is not flawless but I think only the power supply cables and a few SATA cables are hanging out there. Getting it that far was so nightmarish that I'd rather transplant the entire mess to a P280 before attempting to improve it.

Whew! If you've read all that, you deserve a gold star.

 

[SteveWinwood]

Hey what do you guys use to measure your temp for the gpu?

 

[Zaraki_Kenpachi]

If its a competitive game, I'll turn it down to whatever level required for 120FPS. Games like DoTA 2, Smite, Tribes: Ascend, CS:GO, CoD, Warsow, Q3A are all really easy to get to 120fps.

For single player games, it's not *as* important. But like I said, if you are getting 60+, you don't need to turn on vsync or do crazy tripple buffering type crap to get rid of tearing. That's one of the huge benefits.

Even if you aren't getting 120FPS, it still looks different. Hard to explain other than the stop motion vs. fluid movement example. Even desktop use is amazing. After staring at three 60hz monitors all day, when I go home and look at the 120hz, it's almost as if my eyes are thanking me. It's actually soothing.

AMD.

Hmm, interesting. I'll have to see if they have ones on display somewhere to see if I notice a difference. Probably not worth upgrading just for that with two 24" monitors.

 

[Warnen]

sold my x51 ( limited upgrablity and I wanted to make something with my own hands)

this is what I bought:

Intel Core i5-3550k
EVGA GeForce GTX560 Ti 448 Cores FTW 1280 MB GDDR5
MSI Computer Corp. DDR3 1600 Intel LGA 1155 Motherboards (Z77A-G43)
Corsair 8 GB Vengeance Blue Low Profile 1600mhz PC3-12800 240-pin Dual Channel DDR3 Memory
Corsair Enthusiast Series 650-Watt 80 Plus Bronze Certified Power Supply
Intel 330 Series Solid-State Drive 120 GB SATA 6 Gb/s 2.5-Inch
Seagate ST2000DM001 Barracuda 7200RPM 2 TB SATA 6 GB/s NCQ 64 MB Cache 3.5-Inch
Cooler Master Hyper 212 EVO CPU Cooler
Asus 24xDVD-RW Serial ATA Internal OEM Drive DRW-24B1ST
Corsair Vengeance Series C70 High Airflow Gunmetal Black Mid-Tower Case

and windows

cost $1200ish (bit less) should all be here by friday

 

[Salsa]

so are the comments about the gtx670 from EVGA being way too noisy and getting too hot true?

anyone with one that could comment? talkin about the reference card without any sort of extra cooling or anything

 

[gutterboy44]

If its a competitive game, I'll turn it down to whatever level required for 120FPS. Games like DoTA 2, Smite, Tribes: Ascend, CS:GO, CoD, Warsow, Q3A are all really easy to get to 120fps.

For single player games, it's not *as* important. But like I said, if you are getting 60+, you don't need to turn on vsync or do crazy tripple buffering type crap to get rid of tearing. That's one of the huge benefits.

Even if you aren't getting 120FPS, it still looks different. Hard to explain other than the stop motion vs. fluid movement example. Even desktop use is amazing. After staring at three 60hz monitors all day, when I go home and look at the 120hz, it's almost as if my eyes are thanking me. It's actually soothing.

I can vouch for this. Even basic desktop navigation in windows feels betters. Games are so much smoother. All of the things that make 120hz weird while watching TV shows makes everything better when it comes to gaming.

 

[hitmon]

I just noticed my current motherboard supports triple channel. The new motherboard I'm looking at uses dual channel. Is it recommended I get new RAM?

 

[Katoki]

so are the comments about the gtx670 from EVGA being way too noisy and getting too hot true?

anyone with one that could comment? talkin about the reference card without any sort of extra cooling or anything

As far as I care, my SC 670 is just a factory overclocked reference 670 with a high flow bracket so...

Does the 670 SC count for you? Anything around 40-50% fan speed you may or may not hear depending on your surroundings, at about 55-60% it gets obvious but not off-putting and at about the 70%+ point it's pretty obvious the fan is working hard. This really does depend on the level of activity around your computer/outside your home depending how close to windows and openings you are though. But if we use a time like midnight on when everyone's sleeping and outside traffic/commotion is lacking, I can clearly hear the blower whoosh at 50% speed.

Running stock, it'd push 80-85c on Saints Row 3 (As a point of reference) with all settings maxed out at 1920x1080 in game without touching the Nvidia CP. I've since put an Arctic Cooling Accelero Twin Turbo II on it and it struggles to get over 60c and I can't hear it unless the fans are above 70% usage. The 70% usage is also this nice gentle whoosh as well probably equivalent to the noise level of the stock blower at maybe 40-45%?

I don't use temperatures and fan RPMs because I don't bother watching them too much and they vary with what you're running as well especially in my case of going from the blower to the Arctic Cooling fans.

 

[Salsa]

As far as I care, my SC 670 is just a factory overclocked reference 670 with a high flow bracket so...

Does the 670 SC count for you? Anything around 40-50% fan speed you may or may not hear depending on your surroundings, at about 55-60% it gets obvious but not off-putting and at about the 70%+ point it's pretty obvious the fan is working hard. This really does depend on the level of activity around your computer/outside your home depending how close to windows and openings you are though. But if we use a time like midnight on when everyone's sleeping and outside traffic/commotion is lacking, I can clearly hear the blower whoosh at 50% speed.

Running stock, it'd push 80-85c on Saints Row 3 (As a point of reference) with all settings maxed out at 1920x1080 in game without touching the Nvidia CP. I've since put an Arctic Cooling Accelero Twin Turbo II on it and it struggles to get over 60c and I can't hear it unless the fans are above 70% usage. The 70% usage is also this nice gentle whoosh as well probably equivalent to the noise level of the stock blower at maybe 40-45%?

I don't use temperatures and fan RPMs because I don't bother watching them too much and they vary with what you're running as well especially in my case of going from the blower to the Arctic Cooling fans.

Ive been haring about a low-hum that is constant when the card is idling. It actually gets better when the fans pass a certain treshold, apparently.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=UysDJc_820Y

this is what im talking about

and yeah, all I can find over here is the ref card, no FTW model (wich apparently fixes this)

 

[Katoki]

Ive been haring about a low-hum that is constant when the card is idling. It actually gets better when the fans pass a certain treshold, apparently.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=UysDJc_820Y

this is what im talking about

and yeah, all I can find over here is the ref card, no FTW model (wich apparently fixes this)

Oh, mine doesn't make that motor noise at all. It does sound just as annoying as the video though because of the way that fan is. However! I seem to be an exception because I have a card that didn't need to be RMA'd to EVGA.

 

[Salsa]

Im horrible when it comes to idle noises, cant stand it. And I cant seem to find a cooler for the card in my area :/ plus the fact that i'd be already spending too much.

Friend of mine knows importers and he got a Zotac gtx 680 on the cheap. Asked him to find out about that, if there's a possibility for another one. Might as well jump on that if I can.

 

[CambriaRising]

I can only hear my 670 ftw when it is above 75% fan speed. You may want to look into selling that one and getting the ftw.

 

[Katoki]

I can only hear my 670 ftw when it is above 75% fan speed. You may want to look into selling that one and getting the ftw.

Curious, how are your temps? Please include ambient temperature as well.

I have a GTX 670 FTW coming in and if it's decent enough I'll skip changing out the blower for the Accelero Twin Turbo II. My current plan is to replace the TT II on the 670 SC with the Mono Plus and then put that TT II on the FTW card. However, it'd be awesome as well if I didn't have to do that, granted I'd need to cancel the order on the Mono Plus quickly.

 

[Salsa]

You may want to look into selling that one and getting the ftw.

as I said I cant get the FTW model locally :/

and I havent bought the card yet, I was about to but this thing turned me off from it. Read a lot of user comments stating the same deal with the noises (+ bad temps for ref card without any extra cooling). Im gonna wait a bit.

 

[mkenyon]

I can vouch for this. Even basic desktop navigation in windows feels betters. Games are so much smoother. All of the things that make 120hz weird while watching TV shows makes everything better when it comes to gaming.

Televisions aren't really 120hz. The reason it looks weird is because its all post-processing stuff.

Hmm, interesting. I'll have to see if they have ones on display somewhere to see if I notice a difference. Probably not worth upgrading just for that with two 24" monitors.

I'm not kidding when I say I put it up there with discrete 3D graphics cards and broadband for changing and improving my gameplay experience. It's huge.

so are the comments about the gtx670 from EVGA being way too noisy and getting too hot true?

anyone with one that could comment? talkin about the reference card without any sort of extra cooling or anything

All reference cards are loud. Look at a review of the 670s/680s and compare the reference cards with the TwinFrozr, DCII, or windforce.

dB's aren't subjective, while "I can't hear it at X speed" and "it's too loud" are.

FTW, SC, and straight models all use the same cooler as well. The only difference is the shape of the plastic enclosure.

*edit

I should also say, the reference coolers are heads and tails better than what they were even a year or two ago. Temps aren't bad, but they aren't as good as the big three non-reference designs. With temperatures as important as they are with Kepler in specific, there's zero reason to pick EVGA outside of step-up and 3 or 4 way SLI.

 

[Katoki]

FTW, SC, and straight models all use the same cooler as well. The only difference is the shape of the plastic enclosure.

*edit

I should also say, the reference coolers are heads and tails better than what they were even a year or two ago. Temps aren't bad, but they aren't as good as the big three non-reference designs. With temperatures as important as they are with Kepler in specific, there's zero reason to pick EVGA outside of step-up and 3 or 4 way SLI.

Warranty and support?

Granted I've never had to deal with warranty and support when I bought cards that weren't EVGA so go figure.

I wonder why people say the FTW edition fixes the coil whine? and is far quieter than the reference coolers of the 670/670 SC though if they are indeed the same since it should be the fan itself at fault and not because of a slight change in the design. Yes, I've read that that FTW fixes the issues of the earlier cards in multiple places.

 

[Ceebs]

Ok...having a strange problem. Playing a game and all of a sudden my GPU voltage shoots through the roof.

ASUS GTX670 DCU top and Seasonic X-Series 650W for the PSU

Any ideas what could be causing that?

 

[Salacious Crumb]

The FTW is actually a full length GTX 680 reference card with a 670 chip in it, while the SC+ uses a reference 670 PCB.

Curious, how are your temps? Please include ambient temperature as well.

I have a GTX 670 FTW coming in and if it's decent enough I'll skip changing out the blower for the Accelero Twin Turbo II. My current plan is to replace the TT II on the 670 SC with the Mono Plus and then put that TT II on the FTW card. However, it'd be awesome as well if I didn't have to do that, granted I'd need to cancel the order on the Mono Plus quickly.

My case is an FT02 with the fans set to low:

Idle on Desktop:
http://i.imgur.com/iMgsR.gif
inaudible

2 passes of 3d mark 11 with stock settings:
http://i.imgur.com/YhoE9.gif
inaudible in my case anyway

2 passes of 3d mark 11 with OC and custom fan profile:
http://i.imgur.com/EwI3m.gif
This is easily noticeable, but still much quieter than my reference HD 6970

I'd still go for a custom cooler though, I only got the FTW cause the FT02 doesn't play nice with some heatpipe designs in custom coolers.

 

[Katoki]

The FTW is actually a full length GTX 680 reference card with a 670 chip in it, while the SC+ uses a reference 670 PCB.



My case is an FT02 with the fans set to low:

Idle on Desktop:
http://i.imgur.com/iMgsR.gif
inaudible

2 passes of 3d mark 11 with stock settings:
http://i.imgur.com/YhoE9.gif
inaudible in my case anyway

2 passes of 3d mark 11 with OC and custom fan profile:
http://i.imgur.com/EwI3m.gif
This is easily noticeable, but still much quieter than my reference HD 6970

I'd still go for a custom cooler though, I only got the FTW cause the FT02 doesn't play nice with some heatpipe designs in custom coolers.

Thanks and awesome, that still runs really cool with the blower. What's the temperature where ever you are like?

On top of that, I definitely will keep my Mono Plus order for my 670 SC. I can't hear the Arctic Cooling fans under load and when I do, it's this sort of calm whoosh that I don't mind at all. Hopefully the Mono Plus wont be as bad because the TT II I had to support the weight and extra length with other means.

 

[Salsa]

Thanks guys. Im gonna wait a bit and see. Bummed that we cant get the FTW model, that would be an insta-buy for me cause this is pretty much my only concern by now.

Some guy over at a local forums is selling his used 670 windforce real cheap. Claims it only has 2 months of use and that I can test it as much as I want. Good temps no noise and he never touched it to OC or anything like that.


Still, I hate getting used hardware without warranty (he bought it in the states). More often than not a complete dealbreaker for me but this price is really good.

just gonna wait a bit to see how everything turns out

 

[Yoshichan]

Might ask this here as-well, I'm heading to work so I won't be able to answer immediately! My problem I've been having is my CPU temp... idle @55, gaming @90 so I need to fix that. I don't know why it suddenly became like this :/.

All right, so got some final questions (no need for them to be answered right away, I'm heading to work in a matter of minutes). Here's my last quote:

I was wondering... can I buy any heatsink? I have an i5 750 @2.67GHz. Which one would you guys recommend? Also, should I put the toothpaste (I'll look up a guide for how to do this) right on the new heatsink?

Also, when I buy the 90/80mm-fans, will I be able to manually control them? I remember seeing a couple of fans back in the days that I was able to choose the fan-speed... or is this something I buy for the fans externally? In that case, what would this be called and can it be used on every fan? How do I hook it up?

Thanks a lot guys!

edit: Also, I downloaded Real Temp like everyone recommended and I can't really find the "equivalent" of CPU-temp here... I see 8 different temperatures, which one is it I should be looking it?

 

[hypernima]

I thought you were going Z77?

Make sure to get some decent RAM to go with it, that Samsung stuff in specific. Otherwise, it'll be basically limited to 4.3Ghz

I was, but the prospect of 64 gb and the future prospects of the 2011 socket tempted me greatly. And since it's on sale now. Well why not?

 

[BigBlackGamer]

GTX 690 is in stock on Amazon. pulled the trigger. 1000$ impulse purchase....fuck.

 

[Manp]

>_> You were right, I was wrong.

HAPPY NOW?!

<3

Yeah, but you didn't explain why.

Gotta go that extra mile!

-_-' still love you guys

 

[Toki767]

GTX 690 is in stock on Amazon. pulled the trigger. 1000$ impulse purchase....fuck.

Nothing about $1000 is impulse territory unless you're a millionaire or something. Congrats though, the card looks awesome by all accounts.

 

[ink4n3]

Has anyone had any luck buying a cheap key for windows 7? I found a few sites like the following

http://www.windowskeyshop.com/windows-active-key-windows-update-key/windows-7-activation-key

but it seems kind of shady to me.

My situation is that I bought a retail copy of Vista eight or so years ago. While I was a student I bought the $20 upgrade download to Windows 7. I planned on using a program to find product key to install Windows 7 on my new machine. Most of the programs returned a key that it wouldn't accept during install. I found one program that spit out a different key that I believe is something generic. This let me install Windows 7 but it will not activate with either of the two keys from my old machine.

I could probably go through the hassle of putting Vista on my new machine and calling microsoft to get another upgrade key as I've already paid for one but I'd honestly rather just pay $20 for a key and be done with it.

 

[Garou]

Has anyone had any luck buying a cheap key for windows 7? I found a few sites like the following

http://www.windowskeyshop.com/windows-active-key-windows-update-key/windows-7-activation-key

but it seems kind of shady to me.

My situation is that I bought a retail copy of Vista eight or so years ago. While I was a student I bought the $20 upgrade download to Windows 7. I planned on using a program to find product key to install Windows 7 on my new machine. Most of the programs returned a key that it wouldn't accept during install. I found one program that spit out a different key that I believe is something generic. This let me install Windows 7 but it will not activate with either of the two keys from my old machine.

I could probably go through the hassle of putting Vista on my new machine and calling microsoft to get another upgrade key as I've already paid for one but I'd honestly rather just pay $20 for a key and be done with it.

So you had a retail copy of Vista and a authentic upgrade-key. Why the hell would you need a keygenerator??

 

[ink4n3]

So you had a retail copy of Vista and a authentic upgrade-key. Why the hell would you need a keygenerator??

The key that magic jelly bean pulled off my old system would not work to install Windows 7 on my new system. The link I saved for when I bought my upgrade key like 3 years ago was no longer good.

 

[Wazzim]

Might ask this here as-well, I'm heading to work so I won't be able to answer immediately! My problem I've been having is my CPU temp... idle @55, gaming @90 so I need to fix that. I don't know why it suddenly became like this :/.

You should be looking at the first 4. Have you checked if all your fans are actually running?

 

[Jburton]

as I said I cant get the FTW model locally :/

and I havent bought the card yet, I was about to but this thing turned me off from it. Read a lot of user comments stating the same deal with the noises (+ bad temps for ref card without any extra cooling). Im gonna wait a bit.

I bought a reference 670 card (MSI OC edition) and the noise is not that bad at all.

My temps are sitting at 28 - 29c idle and have hit 55 - 58c under full load.


Although it is subjective, for me personally the noise (under load or idle) has not been an issue and the temps have been excellent.

Quite warm and humid where I live, and with a case temp of 33c and a processor idle temp of 35c (i5-2500k) the reference blower on the 670 model I have is keeping the gpu as the coldest component.


Just my experience, thought I would share.

 

[theytookourjobz]

Couple questions. Is my 2500k worth overclocking? Don't do much on my PC besides games. And if I want to buy a 670, is 4GB worth the $60 over thr 2GB version?