RibbedHero
Member
What resolution do you game at? If its greater than 1080p or multiple monitors then it would be worth it if you plan to future proof for a few years. If its one screen at 1080p then 2GB is plenty.
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"I need a New PC!" 2012 Thread. 22nm+28nm, Tri-Gate, and reading the OP. [Part 1]
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What resolution do you game at? If its greater than 1080p or multiple monitors then it would be worth it if you plan to future proof for a few years. If its one screen at 1080p then 2GB is plenty.
theytookourjobz
Junior Member
1080p.
$55 off Kingston HyperX 120GB SSD today only if anyone is looking for one.
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Produ..._mmc=EMC-GD072412-_-index-_-Item-_-20-239-045
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Produ..._mmc=EMC-GD072412-_-index-_-Item-_-20-239-045
derExperte
Member
You paid for the K version and it's extremely easy to squeeze out a few hundred MHz so I'll say yes, there aren't many reasons not do it (a horrible cooler would be one but even slightly overclocked the 2500K doesn't generate too much heat).
theytookourjobz
Junior Member
Ive got a 212+ on it but I don't want to overclock just to do it. If it gives me actual performance benefits thats a different story.
hey_it's_that_dog
benevolent sexism
I was considering this. Reviews are excellent. Any GAFers have a reason I should be wary of this brand or model?
Welcome to the club
Quiet, less power hungry than two cards in SLI, and destroys pretty much every game out. I'm able to run every game I play at 2560x1600, max settings, and 60fps.
Not cheap but worth it once you get it in your hands.
A 1GHz increase will give you a huge performance increase. There games out that will take advantage of it.
Think I got lost in the shuffle yesterday so I'll try one more time:
I'm getting:
OCZ ModXStream Pro 700w ATX
ASRock Z68 EXTREME3 GEN3
Intel Core i5 2500K
Kingston HyperX 8GB
Is it worth upgrading to AsRock Z77 Extreme 4 gen 3 plus a i5 3570K? I can essentially do this for about 15 bucks more than I'm paying for the 2500K+Asrock extreme 3 gen3 due to a newegg.ca sale.
Also I need advice on cases. I want something that's reasonably priced and easy to keep cool. What does 'cable management' mean anyway? Seems like it would be a good thing but have no idea how it works in the case. PSU on bottom is better than PSU on top right? Doesn't hot air rise though?
And about SSDs. Are Samsung and Intel by far the most reliable? I don't mind paying a premium for reliability but I'm not working with a huge budget either. How about the OCZ Vertex 3? Intel 520? Samsung 830? Crucial M4? What's the deal with desktop upgrade bundle kits vs notebook upgrade bundle kits? Do I need a desktop upgrade bundle kit at all?
I'm getting:
OCZ ModXStream Pro 700w ATX
ASRock Z68 EXTREME3 GEN3
Intel Core i5 2500K
Kingston HyperX 8GB
Is it worth upgrading to AsRock Z77 Extreme 4 gen 3 plus a i5 3570K? I can essentially do this for about 15 bucks more than I'm paying for the 2500K+Asrock extreme 3 gen3 due to a newegg.ca sale.
Also I need advice on cases. I want something that's reasonably priced and easy to keep cool. What does 'cable management' mean anyway? Seems like it would be a good thing but have no idea how it works in the case. PSU on bottom is better than PSU on top right? Doesn't hot air rise though?
And about SSDs. Are Samsung and Intel by far the most reliable? I don't mind paying a premium for reliability but I'm not working with a huge budget either. How about the OCZ Vertex 3? Intel 520? Samsung 830? Crucial M4? What's the deal with desktop upgrade bundle kits vs notebook upgrade bundle kits? Do I need a desktop upgrade bundle kit at all?
I dropped $500 dollars yesterday on a new case, 670 FTW and 8GB ram. Felt very much like an impulse buy but at the same time it was really time for an upgrade from a 5770 especially since I play at 1080p.
Went for the 670 over the 7950 in the end despite the $70-80 price difference because I see in the longer term the 670 being a bit more future proof plus the lower power consumption will eventually pay for the difference back. Not to mention I wasnt entirely sure if I could run an overclocked x4 965 and 7950 on a 550W power supply just to have the same performance as a standard 670 FTW.
Went for the 670 over the 7950 in the end despite the $70-80 price difference because I see in the longer term the 670 being a bit more future proof plus the lower power consumption will eventually pay for the difference back. Not to mention I wasnt entirely sure if I could run an overclocked x4 965 and 7950 on a 550W power supply just to have the same performance as a standard 670 FTW.
There's a ton of cases listed in the OP. I went with the Fractal Design Arc Midi based on recommendations from this thread and love it. PSU on that case is mounted on the bottom so it pulls air from outside directly into the PSU.
Really just pick a price point for a case, head to the OP, and then read reviews.
1) For $15, yeah.
2) Cable management article in the OP, that'll show you what it means. CM 690II Advanced, Fractal Arc Midi, Bitfenix Shinobi, and NZXT Source 210 Elite are all amazing buys for what they offer. Shinobi and Source 210 need an extra fan or two to shine.
3) I'd only ever recommend the Samsungs or Crucial for enterprise SSDs. Corsair doesn't seem to have the failure rates of OCZ, and their customer service though declining in quality, is still top notch if you know where to look. No, you do not need the 'upgrade bundle kit'. You can literally tape SSDs anywhere.
Impulsiveness is not defined by a monetary amount. A snap decision is a snap decision. I had the same impulse buy on launch day with the 690
Sorry I missed this yesterday. I want that gold star.GAF, I could use some advice. I think I have temperature problems.
Running Trine at 1680x1050 at medium settings for maybe a minute and a half, GPU-Z and Core Temp showed me at these temps:
GPU (Sapphire HD4870 1GB): 88c
CPU (i7-920): 93c/99c/87c/97c
Idle the GPU is around 78c and the CPU around 60c. Prime95 pretty much puts me at 99c across the board, though the system remains stable. But PixelJunk Eden locked up twice yesterday and during the Trine demo a few months back the computer shut off with no warning...so I'm thinking temps are an issue. Nothing is overclocked.
What are the most efficient steps I can take to lower temps? Silence is unimportant. My wallet would prefer that I replace/upgrade one part at a time, but I can easily afford big sweeping changes if needed.
The next planned upgrade was replacing the 4870 with a 7850. (I am keenly aware of how poor my current GPU's idle temps are.) Will this make dramatic improvements to the system overall, or should I push that off and try an aftermarket CPU cooler first?
The ambient room temperature ranges from 27-32c. Can't change this as it's summer and I don't have central air.
Case is a P-183 with a CP-850. I hear the P-183s are pretty starved for air but don't know if increasing airflow should be a big priority.
Power supply exhausts out the back, but the 4870 intakes from the back. Rear fan and top fan are exhausts, though the air coming out of the top is pretty cool. There's one intake fan (NZXT DF1202512SELN) in front. I stole it out of a case my fiancé had lying around so I have no idea whether it's okay or worthless crap that needs to be replaced.
Cable management is not flawless but I think only the power supply cables and a few SATA cables are hanging out there. Getting it that far was so nightmarish that I'd rather transplant the entire mess to a P280 before attempting to improve it.
Whew! If you've read all that, you deserve a gold star.
1) When was the last time you cleaned your PC?
2) You could remove and reseat both the GPU and CPU coolers, cleaning them in the process.
3) Is your 920 overclocked? If so, could dial that back. But judging by both GPU and CPU being that high, my guess is on a really dirty PC with dust cake.
4) For upgrading, it's still not *really* worth it to step out of 920 territory if you can have it OC'd to about 4.0 GHz. Replacing the case and the videocard does seem like the best place to start. Also, there's no way your 4870 intakes from the back.
5) If you want to cut down on temps, upgrade getting the most for your money, and set yourself up for a nice CPU/Mobo/RAM upgrade with Haswell, I suggest the following.
5a) New case, 690II Advanced, Fractal Define R4, Fractal Arc Midi, or BitFenix Shinobi if no part of closed or open loop watercooling appeals to you. Shinobi XL and Switch 810 could be added to that list if you wanted to spend a bit more.
5b) New videocard, 670 and 7950 are a great price point and will offer a huge gain in performance for you. Get a non-reference cooler if you want quiet. OP video card guide will show you what I mean by 'reference' or 'non-reference' if that is cloudy for you.
5c) New CPU cooler and decent TIM. Coolermaster Hyper 212 is good, but Nehalem gets quite toasty. If you can spring for it, consider the Coolermaster TPC 812 with Corsair SP 120 Quiet edition fans on it or a NZXT Havik 140. Phobya HeGrease is the best TIM out there, but MX-4 will suffice if you need to buy from a bigger seller. HeGrease can be found at Performance PC's or FrozenCPU. This will allow you to overclock your processor and extend it's life plenty far to get you to Haswell.
This may be the wrong thread and if so I apologize. I just ordered this drive:
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Produ...ction-_-cables-_-na-_-na&Item=N82E16820239045
To finally jump on the SSD bandwagon. I currently have a 1TB drive with about 20 Steam games installed, but nothing I'm worried too much about losing besides some save files. What I'd like to know is what's going to be the best way to upgrade? Do a brand new clean windows install, or is there some other route I'd be better off taking?
Basically, SSD noob here using his PC mostly for games, wanting advice on how to get things going.
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Produ...ction-_-cables-_-na-_-na&Item=N82E16820239045
To finally jump on the SSD bandwagon. I currently have a 1TB drive with about 20 Steam games installed, but nothing I'm worried too much about losing besides some save files. What I'd like to know is what's going to be the best way to upgrade? Do a brand new clean windows install, or is there some other route I'd be better off taking?
Basically, SSD noob here using his PC mostly for games, wanting advice on how to get things going.
You can use Acronis EZ Migrate if reformatting is scary to you.
What I'd suggest though, is a clean install on the SSD. Once you get into windows on the SSD as the primary drive, simply delete everything from your HDD save for media and the steam folder. Some people say that you can simply run the steam exe from wherever it is on your computer and it'll fix itself. I've not tried that myself, so I can't comment from my experience. What I've done in the past is that I'll reinstall steam to the HDD, but make sure that the Library folder doesn't get overwritten. You then drag and drop all of the game folders into the new steam install folder, and it'll do a quick update of each game without you losing anything.
What I'd suggest though, is a clean install on the SSD. Once you get into windows on the SSD as the primary drive, simply delete everything from your HDD save for media and the steam folder. Some people say that you can simply run the steam exe from wherever it is on your computer and it'll fix itself. I've not tried that myself, so I can't comment from my experience. What I've done in the past is that I'll reinstall steam to the HDD, but make sure that the Library folder doesn't get overwritten. You then drag and drop all of the game folders into the new steam install folder, and it'll do a quick update of each game without you losing anything.
Zaraki_Kenpachi
Member
Eh, for a new SSD a clean install would be best. It makes it's own settings and stuff. I've always heard people say clean install if you're going from mechanical drive to SSD.
I bought this SSD, it was too cheap to pass up, hopefully it's not too bad.
http://www.bhphotovideo.com/bnh/controller/home?is=REG&Q=&A=details&O=productlist&sku=882641
Does it image the drive or what does it do?
I don't even need the games to all stay installed, I barely touch most of them anyways.
It's the save files that are stored god knows where I'm most concerned for.
Should Steam itself be installed to the SSD? I'm trying to determine the best practices for someone using his PC mostly for games and media.
I have no fear of reformatting other than losing save files not in the cloud.
I'd assume it just clones it. Never tried it myself, but have a friend that used it a ton when he worked at a PC Repair place.
*edit*
A lot of save files are in the 'Games' folder in My Documents.
You can either install steam to the SSD and use the SteamMover tool to move specific games to the HDD. Tool is in the OP. Or, you could install it to the HDD and move specific games to the SSD that you want to speed up load times on. It's your call really.
*edit*
A lot of save files are in the 'Games' folder in My Documents.
You can either install steam to the SSD and use the SteamMover tool to move specific games to the HDD. Tool is in the OP. Or, you could install it to the HDD and move specific games to the SSD that you want to speed up load times on. It's your call really.
Bought! Thanks for the heads up.
By the way, thinking of upgrading my case, is the Fractal Design Arc Midi still a good recommendation?
Zaraki_Kenpachi
Member
Steam should be installed to whatever drive you want to install the games to. If that's the SSD put it there, if you have a slave drive for game installs then put it there.
Alright, I was just curious because I was reading their website and they weren't straight out saying it clones they just kept repeating that it makes migrating easier.
So I've been trying to get a stable 4.5 ghz clock and I just can't with decent temps.
I have a 3570k, Asus Maximus V Gene and a TPC 812. I live in a hot city and my room temperature is around 30 degrees celsius (I need to get a thermometer).
This is what I get with 4.2 and 1.12 V (I haven't actually tested if I could go lower voltage):
This is 4.5 and 1.24V, the lowest I can go without getting a blue screen/system hang up (I tested +0.01 until this sweet spot):
The temps are too high. Is my room temperature too hot for 4.5 clocks? Did I mount my TPC wrong? Should I be getting lower? If I try 1.23 V I get blue screen. What do you guys think?
I have a 3570k, Asus Maximus V Gene and a TPC 812. I live in a hot city and my room temperature is around 30 degrees celsius (I need to get a thermometer).
This is what I get with 4.2 and 1.12 V (I haven't actually tested if I could go lower voltage):
This is 4.5 and 1.24V, the lowest I can go without getting a blue screen/system hang up (I tested +0.01 until this sweet spot):
The temps are too high. Is my room temperature too hot for 4.5 clocks? Did I mount my TPC wrong? Should I be getting lower? If I try 1.23 V I get blue screen. What do you guys think?
Remember, Ivy runs hotter than Sandy.
It's the ambient temps that are killing you right now. An 8C drop would put you at safe temperatures. Even then, high 70s aren't bad. How you should determine temperature is an average of the four cores.
People were spoiled by how cool SB was, and got stuck in this mindset of '60s are where you want it'. High 70s is perfectly acceptable max load temps, even for SB. You're not going to be seeing that in games.
*edit*
Also folks, please don't quote post your pictures that have important writing on them. Makes it a bitch to read, especially on phones/tablets.
It's the ambient temps that are killing you right now. An 8C drop would put you at safe temperatures. Even then, high 70s aren't bad. How you should determine temperature is an average of the four cores.
People were spoiled by how cool SB was, and got stuck in this mindset of '60s are where you want it'. High 70s is perfectly acceptable max load temps, even for SB. You're not going to be seeing that in games.
*edit*
Also folks, please don't quote post your pictures that have important writing on them. Makes it a bitch to read, especially on phones/tablets.
Shadowhaxor
Member
There's also a steam utility to move games to a new drive;
http://www.traynier.com/software/steammover
Yeah. Still the best case out there for the money, IMO.
Zaraki_Kenpachi
Member
Doesn't it just open in a new window when you tap? Never really bothered me.
derExperte
Member
I just cloned mine, let the Windows Experience Index thing run which automatically optimizes a few windows settings when it detects a SSD and that was all. According to benchmarks my Samsung 830 performs 100% as expected and I had no other problems.
Zaraki_Kenpachi
Member
Ah, interesting. I didn't know it changed. I know that's what people were suggesting when it first came out because of it knowing to add stuff for TRIM or something, I forget now.
And this might be the wrong thread but does the current OSX (I think it's lion?) support trim and stuff? I remember people saying it had fast performance in the beginning but due to the lack of handling cleanup it would slow down significantly over time. Is this still true or has Lion gotten rid of that? I haven't paid attention.
D
Deleted member 22576
Unconfirmed Member
So what is the difference between the i5-3570 and the i5-3570k?
From what I've been able to deduce is that the k series is more conducive to overclocking, but was just curious if there was a better more in depth explanation? Is the k series just from a better manufacturing yield?
Also, I know I've asked this multiple times but I still feel weird buying a "not top of the line" CPU. There is no reason to get an i7 for gaming, right? Someone said that unless I'm multitasking there's no reason. Which I won't be, but I could see running fraps occasionally, am I going to see a huge difference between an i5 and i7 in that specific situation?
From what I've been able to deduce is that the k series is more conducive to overclocking, but was just curious if there was a better more in depth explanation? Is the k series just from a better manufacturing yield?
Also, I know I've asked this multiple times but I still feel weird buying a "not top of the line" CPU. There is no reason to get an i7 for gaming, right? Someone said that unless I'm multitasking there's no reason. Which I won't be, but I could see running fraps occasionally, am I going to see a huge difference between an i5 and i7 in that specific situation?
CoachKevin
Member
OK I keep seeing the crashing issues even with the replacement memory from amazon.
It seems like with 8gb of the original memory I got works well and I have had no crashes with just 8gm, but when I add 2 more sticks I start having crashes in Chrome and Saints Row the Third.
Could it be a board issue? Or should i try a different brand of ram? I have in there Corsair Vengeance LP ram.
EDIT: Now it is also crashing with just 8GB of ram now.
It seems like with 8gb of the original memory I got works well and I have had no crashes with just 8gm, but when I add 2 more sticks I start having crashes in Chrome and Saints Row the Third.
Could it be a board issue? Or should i try a different brand of ram? I have in there Corsair Vengeance LP ram.
EDIT: Now it is also crashing with just 8GB of ram now.
You can overclock (and quite easily) with the K processors. You basically can't overclock at all with the non-K processors. Get the K one. If you're going to be doing a lot of encoding of what you capture in FRAPs, the i7 might be helpful, but for gaming the i5 3570K will be more than fine.
Run Memtest with each stick individually, then run them in sets of 2, then sets of 4. If there are no errors individually but are in sets/larger sets, try loosening timings in
Yes.
Reposting to see if I can get an answer on this one. It has only happened on one game (Spec:Ops) but it happened a few times within the hour. Monitor went black for a second and when it came back the game ran at like 5 FPS for about 15 seconds before it jumped back up to normal.
Ok...having a strange problem. Playing a game and all of a sudden my GPU voltage shoots through the roof.
ASUS GTX670 DCU top and Seasonic X-Series 650W for the PSU
Any ideas what could be causing that?
ipitydatfu
Member
fractal r4 is freaking sexy
i7s help tons in recording/streaming.
The 'in depth' answer is that processors rely on two factors to increase the CPU frequency. Frequency is determined by BCLK x multiplier. BCLK is the speed of the Front Side Bus. So, a 100mhz BCLK with a 40 multiplier means you have a processor running at 4.0 GHz. Sandybridge and Ivybridge can't modify the BCLK as it also determines the speed of memory, and their memory controllers are complete crap. This means you are entirely dependent upon the multiplier to overclock.
The 'K' series have an unlocked multiplier while the non-K series do not.
My best guess is driver related. No idea though.
metalshade
Member
Hey guys, so I completed my build today, and I am having a few niggling issues I thought you might be able to advise on?
First of all, I have my 6870 connected to my HDTV via HDMI, I downloaded the latest catalyst, and the TV is set to 1080p, but when I set the catalyst settings to 1080p, the image is not full screen. I have used the scaling to get it to fit better, but it is not perfect, what am I missing?
Also, the wife and I have settled down to watch a bluray, and every few minutes it seems to hitch, video and audio just freeze for about 2 seconds.
The drive is only a 4x speed bluray, is it just that I have a rubbish reader? I plugged its SATA into a 3GB port, that should be more than enough right?
Thanks guys.
First of all, I have my 6870 connected to my HDTV via HDMI, I downloaded the latest catalyst, and the TV is set to 1080p, but when I set the catalyst settings to 1080p, the image is not full screen. I have used the scaling to get it to fit better, but it is not perfect, what am I missing?
Also, the wife and I have settled down to watch a bluray, and every few minutes it seems to hitch, video and audio just freeze for about 2 seconds.
The drive is only a 4x speed bluray, is it just that I have a rubbish reader? I plugged its SATA into a 3GB port, that should be more than enough right?
Thanks guys.
metalshade
Member
Do I want GPU scaling on or off?
Also, I was using the over/under scan to try to fit it to my screen, it ends up either a few pixels too big/too small.
Have you tried ripping the Bluray and playing the raw uncompressed file from your hard drive?
I use MakeMKV for this:
http://makemkv.com/
I use MakeMKV for this:
http://makemkv.com/
Currently rocking a Phenom II X3 with the 4th core unlocked and an ATI 6850. Looking at new cards and see that they're now PCI-Express 3.0 instead of 2.0.
If I buy something like a 7950 should I just get a new motherboard and processor? I know the cards are backwards compatible with 2.0 but how much of a performance hit am I going to take? If I don't have to buy a new motherboard I was just going to get 965 black edition and drop it in with the new gfx card, would that be enough to take full advantage of the card?
Basically I'm trying to decide whether or not to try and extend the life of this build for another year and then build a new computer or just save my money till xmas and build a brand new computer then.
If I buy something like a 7950 should I just get a new motherboard and processor? I know the cards are backwards compatible with 2.0 but how much of a performance hit am I going to take? If I don't have to buy a new motherboard I was just going to get 965 black edition and drop it in with the new gfx card, would that be enough to take full advantage of the card?
Basically I'm trying to decide whether or not to try and extend the life of this build for another year and then build a new computer or just save my money till xmas and build a brand new computer then.
The only PCI-E 3.0 card taking a hit is the GTX690, because its two 680s on a single slot.
Your processor is getting long in the tooth and is a major source of the low minimum framerates and studders. You'll want to upgrade that next for sure. If those studders aren't a huge issue for you, then definitely wait until Haswell comes out in Jan/Feb. Until then, overclock your processor. You should be able to get it to the 3.7-4.1 range fairly easy.
Your processor is getting long in the tooth and is a major source of the low minimum framerates and studders. You'll want to upgrade that next for sure. If those studders aren't a huge issue for you, then definitely wait until Haswell comes out in Jan/Feb. Until then, overclock your processor. You should be able to get it to the 3.7-4.1 range fairly easy.
Ah, I was hoping I'd have an option to install the games I play most to the SSD, but keep others installed to the slave if I liked.
You can, Steam Mover tool. OP.
Also, use of the term 'slave' betrays your age. I know that feel.
CoachKevin
Member
So I ran MemTest and things came back with no errors. But Saints Row the 3rd still crashes.
Here is the error message:
Description:
A problem caused this program to stop interacting with Windows.
Problem signature:
Problem Event Name: AppHangB1
Application Name: saintsrowthethird_dx11.exe
Application Version: 1.0.0.1
Application Timestamp: 4fbfd589
Hang Signature: 63b8
Hang Type: 2048
Locale ID: 1033
Additional Hang Signature 1: 63b8735077b84ffaf30d3310aefe35c6
Additional Hang Signature 2: 5843
Additional Hang Signature 3: 584373fc99ac7586a793aefe57214cb2
Additional Hang Signature 4: 63b8
Additional Hang Signature 5: 63b8735077b84ffaf30d3310aefe35c6
Additional Hang Signature 6: 5843
Additional Hang Signature 7: 584373fc99ac7586a793aefe57214cb2
Read our privacy statement online:
http://go.microsoft.com/fwlink/?linkid=104288&clcid=0x0409
If the online privacy statement is not available, please read our privacy statement offline:
C:\Windows\system32\en-US\erofflps.txt
Here is the error message:
Description:
A problem caused this program to stop interacting with Windows.
Problem signature:
Problem Event Name: AppHangB1
Application Name: saintsrowthethird_dx11.exe
Application Version: 1.0.0.1
Application Timestamp: 4fbfd589
Hang Signature: 63b8
Hang Type: 2048
Locale ID: 1033
Additional Hang Signature 1: 63b8735077b84ffaf30d3310aefe35c6
Additional Hang Signature 2: 5843
Additional Hang Signature 3: 584373fc99ac7586a793aefe57214cb2
Additional Hang Signature 4: 63b8
Additional Hang Signature 5: 63b8735077b84ffaf30d3310aefe35c6
Additional Hang Signature 6: 5843
Additional Hang Signature 7: 584373fc99ac7586a793aefe57214cb2
Read our privacy statement online:
http://go.microsoft.com/fwlink/?linkid=104288&clcid=0x0409
If the online privacy statement is not available, please read our privacy statement offline:
C:\Windows\system32\en-US\erofflps.txt
D
Deleted member 22576
Unconfirmed Member
So I think I'm going to go with the i7-3770k.
What is the deal with this turbo boost thing? Last time I had a gaming pc it was a single core p4. Is it just marketing hype? Is the CPU 3.5ghz or 3.9? Is it a window that is dependent on temperature? Very confusing. I want to do a very minor OC to 4.0ghz just so so I can say its 4.0ghz, my case is small so I'm concerned about heat and don't want to go crazy. Could I get a stable 4.0 from this chip with just the included stock cooler?
What is the deal with this turbo boost thing? Last time I had a gaming pc it was a single core p4. Is it just marketing hype? Is the CPU 3.5ghz or 3.9? Is it a window that is dependent on temperature? Very confusing. I want to do a very minor OC to 4.0ghz just so so I can say its 4.0ghz, my case is small so I'm concerned about heat and don't want to go crazy. Could I get a stable 4.0 from this chip with just the included stock cooler?
Hawk269
Member
Agree with Mkenyon in using Steam Mover. For me it has been great. I only keep a few games on the SSD, which are ones that use a lot of streaming etc. All my other games I have on a seperate HDD. There are a few games that wont let you use Steam Mover however, very rare though. In my collection I think the Half Life games and one other wont allow Steam Mover, everything else works perfectly.
Hey guys how hot can my CPU get before I should be worried? I'm playing Shogun 2 which I think is a pretty CPU heavy game and I turned speedfan on and noticed the max, so far, was 86.8C.
I have a regular i7 @3.07ghz with a special CPU cooler that I bought with the rest of the parts and I'm not currently having any noticeable problems and it's not making any abnormally loud noises but that seems really hot for a CPU.
I have a regular i7 @3.07ghz with a special CPU cooler that I bought with the rest of the parts and I'm not currently having any noticeable problems and it's not making any abnormally loud noises but that seems really hot for a CPU.
Has this been posted? 27" IPS displays for cheap: http://techreport.com/articles.x/23291
Wondering if anyone has given them a shot?
Wondering if anyone has given them a shot?
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