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"I need a New PC!" 2012 Thread. 22nm+28nm, Tri-Gate, and reading the OP. [Part 1]

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kai3345

Banned
I know next to nothing about computers and I bought an Alienware m11xR2 last year thinking it would be good for editing video and after effects and the like (I'm a film major) as well as a decent gaming PC.

Turns out video editing and gaming are involved in two very different parts of the computer.

So what I want to do is build my own Desktop PC, as I've heard this is vastly cheaper than buying one prebuilt. I've got a friend who is going to walk me through step-by-step on how to build it, so that's not my issue. My issue is parts.

My goal is to make a desktop pc that can edit 1080p video smoothly, and then if there's still room in the budget, do some gaming as well, but the primary focus is the editing.

My goal is to get something under $400 total

I was directed by my friend to this bundle on Newegg (http://www.newegg.com/Product/ComboBundleDetails.aspx?ItemList=Combo.956686) but upon doing some research on the parts listed, it doesn't seem to be all that great. I'd have no idea what to look for so I'm asking GAF for help.
 

Derrick01

Banned
That's about the temp you should worry. Cross reference it with the temperatures in HWMonitor, which I find tends to be more accurate across multiple platforms. Take the average temperature between the four cores.

Just downloaded it, I'm assuming the average is the value tab.

The thing is it's not acting any differently from when I bought it but when I ran speedfan in the past I always looked at GPU and not CPU, so I don't know if the temps are higher than before.

edit: Err nevermind value tab seems to be what it's at currently, derp.
 

Wazzim

Banned
My games suddenly have some kind of stutter going on. It isn't like SLI/CrossFire microstutter but actual stutter while the FPS stay on the same (high) level.

Noticed it in Morrowind, Skyrim and Driver SF. All open world game but it wasn't when loading areas.
(460 1gb, 2500k, 8gb RAM etc)

Is my 460 nearing it's end or something?
 

Hawk269

Member
I know next to nothing about computers and I bought an Alienware m11xR2 last year thinking it would be good for editing video and after effects and the like (I'm a film major) as well as a decent gaming PC.

Turns out video editing and gaming are involved in two very different parts of the computer.

So what I want to do is build my own Desktop PC, as I've heard this is vastly cheaper than buying one prebuilt. I've got a friend who is going to walk me through step-by-step on how to build it, so that's not my issue. My issue is parts.

My goal is to make a desktop pc that can edit 1080p video smoothly, and then if there's still room in the budget, do some gaming as well, but the primary focus is the editing.

My goal is to get something under $400 total

I was directed by my friend to this bundle on Newegg (http://www.newegg.com/Product/ComboB...t=Combo.956686) but upon doing some research on the parts listed, it doesn't seem to be all that great. I'd have no idea what to look for so I'm asking GAF for help.

Not to be a smartass but is that a typo for the target price? I am not an expert here, but if $400 is your budget total for a completely new rig and what you want to do with it, I don't think $400 will cut it...at all. I may be wrong and some of our more tech savvy users here will correct me if I am wrong, but I don't think you are going to get anything that will allow you to do what you want for $400 bucks.
 

MrBig

Member
Has this been posted? 27" IPS displays for cheap: http://techreport.com/articles.x/23291

Wondering if anyone has given them a shot?

Yes, several people here in this thread have gotten them, including me. I recommend getting a Crossover for its much superior build quality, buying from either AccessoriesWhole or Green Sum.

They're absolutely amazing monitors, the caveat with them is no manufacturer warranty. I fully recommend one.
 

mkenyon

Banned
My goal is to get something under $400 total

I was directed by my friend to this bundle on Newegg (http://www.newegg.com/Product/ComboB...t=Combo.956686) but upon doing some research on the parts listed, it doesn't seem to be all that great. I'd have no idea what to look for so I'm asking GAF for help.
OP, but you really need to up your budget if possible. 2500K is where I'd start with editing, 2600K/3770K is great. If not possible, then one of the basic builds with an i3 will be a good starting point until you can afford something a bit more well-suited.
My games suddenly have some kind of stutter going on. It isn't like SLI/CrossFire microstutter but actual stutter while the FPS stay on the same (high) level.

Noticed it in Morrowind, Skyrim and Driver SF. All open world game but it wasn't when loading areas.
(460 1gb, 2500k, 8gb RAM etc)

Is my 460 nearing it's end or something?
Yep. That's the game loading more textures than the 1GB can provide. Any of these modded?
 

Derrick01

Banned
Ok so maybe it was just speedfan being stupid.

I've only put about 5 minutes into Shogun 2 so far so it could still go up but so far my max CPU temps are (using hardware monitor)

58
57
58
58

That's....quite different from 86.
 
So I ran MemTest and things came back with no errors. But Saints Row the 3rd still crashes.

Here is the error message:


Description:
A problem caused this program to stop interacting with Windows.

Problem signature:
Problem Event Name: AppHangB1
Application Name: saintsrowthethird_dx11.exe
Application Version: 1.0.0.1
Application Timestamp: 4fbfd589
Hang Signature: 63b8
Hang Type: 2048
Locale ID: 1033
Additional Hang Signature 1: 63b8735077b84ffaf30d3310aefe35c6
Additional Hang Signature 2: 5843
Additional Hang Signature 3: 584373fc99ac7586a793aefe57214cb2
Additional Hang Signature 4: 63b8
Additional Hang Signature 5: 63b8735077b84ffaf30d3310aefe35c6
Additional Hang Signature 6: 5843
Additional Hang Signature 7: 584373fc99ac7586a793aefe57214cb2

Read our privacy statement online:
http://go.microsoft.com/fwlink/?linkid=104288&clcid=0x0409

If the online privacy statement is not available, please read our privacy statement offline:
C:\Windows\system32\en-US\erofflps.txt

Carrying over from the last page if anyone has any ideas. Thanks!
 

mkenyon

Banned
My m11x already has an i5 in it, so I'm guessing that one of those i3 basic builds won't be much better?
Mobility =/= desktop. I don't know exactly how they compare, so maybe look at benchmarks between the two in reviews from sites like anandtech to get an idea.
 

Ceebs

Member
Yes, several people here in this thread have gotten them, including me. I recommend getting a Crossover for its much superior build quality, buying from either AccessoriesWhole or Green Sum.

They're absolutely amazing monitors, the caveat with them is no manufacturer warranty. I fully recommend one.
Second the Crossover as well. Everyone that has been over and seen it is shocked at how amazing it looks. You will be prying this thing from my cold dead hands before I go back to anything lower resolution. You will need a beefy GPU to go along with it. My 670 handles console ports with ease, but The Witcher 2 has drops into the 40FPS region with ultra settings and Crysis 2 with all the DX11 stuff maxed is all over the place. This could just be a driver thing though with the 670 being relatively new.

The upside is that you can run most games with zero AA and not really notice any aliasing due to the pixel density.

Keep in mind I am not one of those 120hz or bust people though. I will gladly take screen size and image quality over framerate and response times.
 

mkenyon

Banned
It's not just framerate and response times though! It's a smoothness to everything that in its own way, surpasses the picture quality of IPS by providing a seamless image. I wish it could be easily demonstrated or even described.

Get an S23A700/750D if you want PQ and smoothness. It's the perfect middle ground and has a better image than a lot of IPS panels I've seen. Barely even notice a difference between that and the Crossover.

Really, we need someone to come out with a 2560x1440 IPS 120hz panel. Really badly.
 

burgerdog

Member
When OCing should I be setting the bios to fixed or variable? I'm leaning toward variable since I don't need the cpu to be running at 4.3 while doing mundane tasks such as browsing etc. I would also not be surprised if I'm way off here so some advice would be appreciated.
 

Zebra

Member
So, I'm looking to build a new PC this year, and I want to make sure it will be able to smoothly run most next gen games at high settings (based on general expecations/educated guesses as to what next gen will be like).
I'm really not up to date with graphics cards these days as I haven't looked at them since I built my current pc 6 years ago, so any advice would be much welcomed.

I'm looking at the "Excellent - Best Overall" build from the OP, and I'm wondering which graphics card of the three I should choose to be put comfortably in next gen's range. Which would be a safe bet to handle future triple A titles?
 

Ceebs

Member
So, I'm looking to build a new PC this year, and I want to make sure it will be able to smoothly run most next gen games at high settings (based on general expecations/educated guesses as to what next gen will be like).
I'm really not up to date with graphics cards these days as I haven't looked at them since I built my current pc 6 years ago, so any advice would be much welcomed.

I'm looking at the "Excellent - Best Overall" build from the OP, and I'm wondering which graphics card of the three I should choose to be put comfortably in next gen's range. Which would be a safe bet to handle future triple A titles?

The problem is no one really knows what specs you will need to run next gen console ports yet. I would expect something like the 670 to be up to the task, but who really knows at this point. You can always just buy high end now, and if you need more just sell off the GPU for something faster down the road as the higher end stuff will still be worth something in a years' time.
 
I'm building my computer tomorrow and haven't built one in a few years. Any tips I should keep in mind? Any good video to watch/tutorials? I'll probably watch the Newegg one again.

Do you generally install the CPU/heatsink before mounting the MB?
 

Thraktor

Member
I know next to nothing about computers and I bought an Alienware m11xR2 last year thinking it would be good for editing video and after effects and the like (I'm a film major) as well as a decent gaming PC.

Turns out video editing and gaming are involved in two very different parts of the computer.

So what I want to do is build my own Desktop PC, as I've heard this is vastly cheaper than buying one prebuilt. I've got a friend who is going to walk me through step-by-step on how to build it, so that's not my issue. My issue is parts.

My goal is to make a desktop pc that can edit 1080p video smoothly, and then if there's still room in the budget, do some gaming as well, but the primary focus is the editing.

My goal is to get something under $400 total

I was directed by my friend to this bundle on Newegg (http://www.newegg.com/Product/ComboBundleDetails.aspx?ItemList=Combo.956686) but upon doing some research on the parts listed, it doesn't seem to be all that great. I'd have no idea what to look for so I'm asking GAF for help.

Short answer: In the OP there's a build marked "Standard". Buy that, but leave out the graphics card.

Long answer: You're not going to get a whole lot for $400 as far as video editing goes. My "short answer" solution will be noticeably better than your laptop, but not really a powerhouse. The first benefit is moving up to 8GB of RAM, which is about the minimum you can get away with for HD video editing. The CPU should also be quite a bit better, despite being an i3 to your i5. The issue here is that I'm pretty sure the CPUs in the m11x R2 are ULV (ultra-low voltage), which means they run at very low clockspeeds (I believe yours would be an i5 520UM running at 1.06GHz) to enable longer battery life. The fact that the i3 2120 runs at a far higher 3.3GHz would override any differences from architecture (which would probably be in favour of the i3, anyway, as it's based on the more modern Sandy Bridge design).

My advice would be either to save up some more before you build your PC, or to go with the above set-up, and upgrade as you go along. Either way, you should look to end up with the following system:

CPU: Core i5 2500K or 3570K - Quad-core chips that can be easily overclocked to over 4GHz, should do the job quite nicely for a reasonable budget. I'd advise a Core i7 3770K, which is another step up again, but given that it alone costs 85% of your budget at the moment, I'd say it's out of reach.

RAM: 16GB - When it comes to video editing, more RAM is always better, but 16GB is a good amount. If you get 16GB, buy it as two 8GB sticks, so you have slots free for further RAM upgrades later.

SSD: 128GB 6GB/s - SSDs are a huge benefit when it comes to video editing, regardless of what your other specs are. Even if you don't have one in your build initially, buy a 128GB SSD the first chance you get. The reason I say to go with a 128GB rather than anything smaller is that you're going to have your Windows install on there, all your editing software on there, all the project files for whatever project you're working on on there, and you're going to be using it as a scratch disk at the same time, which would be too much for a ~64GB SSD, but should be fine with a 128GB one. Recommended brands are in the OP (summary: avoid OCZ).

GPU: ???? - The new factor you have to take into account for video editing these days is GPU acceleration. Adobe's After Effects and Premiere (I'm assuming you're using Premiere) benefit quite a bit from GPU acceleration, but are currently only compatible with certain Nvidia GPUs. They're working on support for AMD GPUs, which should give you some more options by the time you can afford one. In particular it will be worth looking at AMD's 7xxx series, which are quite capable as far as these things go. Wait until support is official and you can see some benchmarks before you buy anything, though.

Motherboard: Z77-based - If you want to overclock, you'll need a motherboard based on the Z77 chipset. ASRock do some reasonably priced ones. Make sure you have one of these in your initial build, as it gives you the best upgrade opportunities.

The above system would far outperform your laptop, and should be quite capable as far as 1080p editing goes. If there's one item I'd advise to go with in your initial build it'd be the i5 3570K, as it's cheaper to pay the ~$100 extra upfront rather than paying quite a bit more to upgrade (as you won't get much for a second-hand i3). The rest of the items can be just added in as you go along, though, without having to replace anything.
 

Ceebs

Member
I'm building my computer tomorrow and haven't built one in a few years. Any tips I should keep in mind? Any good video to watch/tutorials? I'll probably watch the Newegg one again.

Do you generally install the CPU/heatsink before mounting the MB?

Depends on the size of the heatsink. Mine is just too damn big to install out of the case. In fact it's too damn big to install until you have everything plugged in.

If you are using the stock, then you can easily put it on before you mount the mobo. If aftermarket set it in place and see if it covers up any of the screw holes or anything else you will need to get at once it's in the case.
 

Celcius

°Temp. member
I'm building my computer tomorrow and haven't built one in a few years. Any tips I should keep in mind? Any good video to watch/tutorials? I'll probably watch the Newegg one again.

Do you generally install the CPU/heatsink before mounting the MB?

Good videos in the op :)
I'd definitely recommend installing the hsf first.
 

Black_Stride

do not tempt fate do not contrain Wonder Woman's thighs do not do not
Do you generally install the CPU/heatsink before mounting the MB?

I find it easier to mount the CPU and Heatsink before putting the motherboard in the case....in fact i dont think anyone does it the other way for full builds.

I can understand doing it if its just an upgrade, but for a full build you are giving yourself extra work mounting the motherboard then mounting the CPU and Heatsink after.

Pretty sure the days of jumpers on your drives has long since passed.

Haha, reading over these guys calling drives master and slave makes me feel so old.
God damn kids these days have it easy, just plug and play everything.
 

honorless

We don't have "get out of jail free" cards, but if we did, she'd have one.
Sorry I missed this yesterday. I want that gold star.
You're amazing. Tell you what, take a platinum star.

Last time I dusted out the case was a couple of months ago, so it was all still relatively clean...except for the damn video card, which was an unholy mess. GPU temps are down 15+ degrees. Thank you for pointing out the obvious.

No big CPU improvements just from dusting but turns out FrozenCPU is local (!!!) so I'll be buying a new cooler...probably tomorrow, if I remember to check case measurements in the morning. Here's hoping I don't screw up the installation. Never had to apply thermal paste before.

Funny thing, the #1 reason I was looking at 7850 over the 7950 or even 7970 was because of temperatures. If the new cooler solves the problem well enough, better GPU ahoy.

...I'm a little reluctant to invest in a case that can't take the CP-850 since the wattage is pretty futureproof. I made my bed with that ridiculous form factor, so...for now I'm lying in it. But who knows what'll be salvaged from this PC when the next happens, so I'll keep your suggestions in mind and check the OP for new case developments next build.
(...Haskell? Haha, this system might take me up to Skymont. I was running a 2GHz P4 with 768 MB RAM and a 256 MB 9250 before building this PC...in February 2010.)

Thank you again for your valuable time, seriously.
 

Ocho

Member
I finally got a couple of Spectre Pros for a total of 5 fans in my arc midi, and my teams are holding in the top 70s with 4.5 and 1.25v. This running prime95, I expect better temps playing games.
 

Petrie

Banned
Ya, I need a new case too. Would you ever use all the mountings for fans? Is there something else as good as this if you're not getting it at half off?

Ya I don't really know, I just know that I've been using a case with really crappy cooling that my buddy was mistakenly shipped 2 of, only has space for 2 fans total, but looks cool I guess, so I didn't need a new case badly, just couldn't resist at the same price I paid for the Antec 300 years ago.

I'm sure for now I won't need all those fans, but I'm future-proofed!
 

Eiolon

Member
Got my parts in this evening. Started putting my build together but probably won't finish it until tomorrow.

build2012-1.jpg


Lian Li Lancool PC-K9BW case
Intel Core i5-3570k
Cooler Master 212+ HSF
ASRock Z77 Extreme 4
Corsair Vengeance 8GB DDR3 1600
Crucial M4 128GB SSD
EVGA GTX 670
SeaSonic M12II 620W modular PSU
Sony AD-7280S-0B 24x DVD+/-RW Drive
CM Storm QuickFire Rapid mechanical keyboard
Dell U2412M monitor
 
Ya I don't really know, I just know that I've been using a case with really crappy cooling that my buddy was mistakenly shipped 2 of, only has space for 2 fans total, but looks cool I guess, so I didn't need a new case badly, just couldn't resist at the same price I paid for the Antec 300 years ago.

I'm sure for now I won't need all those fans, but I'm future-proofed!

Ya, I'm just curious in general how many fans people add since there is a million mounting spots. I really like the hard drive bay/clip on thing to hold it. I had initial ones that were plastic years ago and they were shit and would just break apart but the metal brackets it comes with is pretty sweet, in addition to the actual SSD spot built in.

Can anyone recommend something better for the price? If not I'll probably just break down and pay full price.
 
Reviews say you can get it for $80 or so regularly after rebate, and that if you're going to spend over $100 you can get better.

Newegg has it for $100 flat. Maybe I should wait then... I just want one now, it's definitely nice. :(

Does anyone use the front audio? There's usually not room to plug that and an audio card into the mobo right? It always seemed pointless since I have speakers but if I could also easily plug headphones in the front when needed it would be awesome but mobos only allow for one thing that I've had.
 

mkenyon

Banned
...I'm a little reluctant to invest in a case that can't take the CP-850 since the wattage is pretty futureproof. I made my bed with that ridiculous form factor, so...for now I'm lying in it. But who knows what'll be salvaged from this PC when the next happens, so I'll keep your suggestions in mind and check the OP for new case developments next build.
(...Haskell? Haha, this system might take me up to Skymont. I was running a 2GHz P4 with 768 MB RAM and a 256 MB 9250 before building this PC...in February 2010.)

Thank you again for your valuable time, seriously.
No problem!

Super jealous FrozenCPU is local. Probably could buy a PC in just shipping fees from them over the years.

I'd really suggest getting some new fans. Depending on your tolerance for noise, I'd go Corsair AF120 Quiet Edition on the quiet side, or some high CFM Noctuas, Swiftech Helix, AF 120 Performance Edition, or Gentle Typhoons on the loud side. If you don't mind noise at all, then we can talk further.

You will also most definitely want to go with a reference cooled 7950, as your case just will not be able to deal with all of the heat being dumped into the case from a non-reference cooler. Your CPU temps would suffer for sure.

Alternatively, FrozenCPU might offer some modding options to open that case up a bit more. I'd imagine having them add something like a side panel fan would be a trivial expense. Just a thought.
You all shut up. :'(
I'm right there with you man. I still have my 486 that I keep around as a memento. Still boots into Windows 3.11 :p
Ya, I'm just curious in general how many fans people add since there is a million mounting spots. I really like the hard drive bay/clip on thing to hold it. I had initial ones that were plastic years ago and they were shit and would just break apart but the metal brackets it comes with is pretty sweet, in addition to the actual SSD spot built in.

Can anyone recommend something better for the price? If not I'll probably just break down and pay full price.
CM690II, Fractal Arc Midi, NZXT Phantom, a few Lian Life K series, Bitfenix Shinobi, Bitfenix Raider, Fractal Define R4, CM HAF XM, HAF922, and more.

Really though, you should stop at one of the first two I listed. Antec is not what they once were. Or rather, they are, while everyone else moved on for the last four years.
 
Fractal looks nice but for the same price I think the antec is nicer. The dedicated SSD slots are really really cool. I hate the CM690, I could be wrong but the locking trays look way too much like the POS plastic ones from yesteryear. Maybe they're not like that but my gut reaction reminds me of the shitty plastic and is an instant turn off.

What do you like more about the fractal and the cooler master over the antec?
 

Ceebs

Member
Fractal looks nice but for the same price I think the antec is nicer. The dedicated SSD slots are really really cool. I hate the CM690, I could be wrong but the locking trays look way too much like the POS plastic ones from yesteryear. Maybe they're not like that but my gut reaction reminds me of the shitty plastic and is an instant turn off.

What do you like more about the fractal and the cooler master over the antec?

Are you talking about the Fractal? The drive trays on the Arc Midi are not plastic, and work amazingly well. The top bays use good old fashioned screws like they should. It also looks very clean and understated despite the mesh.
 

Hazaro

relies on auto-aim
So I think I'm going to go with the i7-3770k.

What is the deal with this turbo boost thing? Last time I had a gaming pc it was a single core p4. Is it just marketing hype? Is the CPU 3.5ghz or 3.9? Is it a window that is dependent on temperature? Very confusing. I want to do a very minor OC to 4.0ghz just so so I can say its 4.0ghz, my case is small so I'm concerned about heat and don't want to go crazy. Could I get a stable 4.0 from this chip with just the included stock cooler?
For gaming just get a 3570K. 4.0Ghz should be just fine on stock voltage/cooler.
You are gaining nearly NOTHING by getting a 3770K for $110 more. If you ever need to upgrade down the line you can just sell your CPU and upgrade.
Ok so maybe it was just speedfan being stupid.

I've only put about 5 minutes into Shogun 2 so far so it could still go up but so far my max CPU temps are (using hardware monitor)

58
57
58
58

That's....quite different from 86.
There is a reason I don't list Speedfan.
Got my parts in this evening. Started putting my build together but probably won't finish it until tomorrow.

build2012-1.jpg


Lian Li Lancool PC-K9BW case
Intel Core i5-3570k
Cooler Master 212+ HSF
ASRock Z77 Extreme 4
Corsair Vengeance 8GB DDR3 1600
Crucial M4 128GB SSD
EVGA GTX 670
SeaSonic M12II 620W modular PSU
Sony AD-7280S-0B 24x DVD+/-RW Drive
CM Storm QuickFire Rapid mechanical keyboard
Dell U2412M monitor
Pretty solid pickup list. :)
 
I got a new 16:9 monitor and decided to keep my 5:4 monitor plugged in for some dual monitor goodness. However, when I did this I noticed that my cpu and gpu temperatures went up about 5-8 degrees at idle. I don't think they got much hotter than they usually do while actually playing a game but I was just wondering if this is normal.

Edit: Just ran a quick test with Skyrim while I had HW Monitor open in the other monitor. I've got an i5-2320 and a GTX 560ti and they topped out at 60 degrees and 72 degrees respectively; are these temperatures OK?
 
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