• Hey, guest user. Hope you're enjoying NeoGAF! Have you considered registering for an account? Come join us and add your take to the daily discourse.

"I need a New PC!" 2012 Thread. 22nm+28nm, Tri-Gate, and reading the OP. [Part 1]

Status
Not open for further replies.

mkenyon

Banned
not sure about that. ncix and directcanada have some pretty good deals, not to mention that they price match. directcanada also has free shipping for purchases above $100. also check out pricebat.ca . it gives you a nice list of prices
By "pond", he means the Atlantic Ocean. And yeah, Europe prices are always higher.

Ah, the benefits of being a citizen of the world hegemon. :p

*edit*

Also, lowering the price on the 670 to $340, as it hasn't sold. This is the straight up EVGA GTX 670. No weird noises like the ones found on the SC version.

G9uM8.jpg
 

Noaloha

Member
Gragh, I made a boo-boo just now when ordering the last bits of my PC. Stupid 5am! Grabbed a 256GB Samsung 830 for storage, a copy of Windows 7 and a new mouse. Paid an extra £10 for Saturday delivery so that I can spend this weekend awash in 'new computer' frothiness.

Thought I was all set!

Then I realised I'd forgotten to include the DVD drive on my order though. :(

With the delivery being all last minute and express, the site I'm using (eBuyer) appears to have greyed out the option to 'add item' after completion. I've raised a customer service note and am waiting to hear back from them to see if they can sort something out.

I have a question though in case nothing can be done:

I know that you can install W7 from USB thumb-stick, however I'm under the impression that to do that you still need some other PC capable of reading a DVD from which you'd intitially transfer the data over to said thumb-stick. My current poopy PC only has a CD drive, so that isn't an option.

What I'm wondering is whether Microsoft allow you to grab the appropriate Windows 7 software directly from them free of charge, with the requirement of you to authorise the subsequent installation of it with the registration key that you'd get in the boxed copy of the OS before the software can be used.

Is this a thing wot can be dun?
 

Nekrono

Member
Guys I just upgraded my PC's memory from 4GB to 8GB and after fooling around I noticed that my Windows partition had about 5GB of free space (If I remember correclty before the upgrade I had ~10GB I think), I looked around and apparently it's my page file settings, after the upgrade it looks like this:

c139d011fac7e3aa8e54619f7729f0179526fa54.PNG


I thinking this is probably normal but It's not acceptable for me as it is cutting it too close with the free space on that partition, I don't remember what value it had before when I had 4GB RAM but I'd like to either put that value back (assuming someone knows it) or get rid of the whole thing but I don't know how that will affect my system.

Help please!
 

CaLe

Member
Posting again before I list on eBay :)

Gaffers, I was going to sell my crossfire XFX 6870s on eBay but thought it might benefit someone else here instead. I'm getting a GTX 670.

One of them was used for about 2 years, the other just above a year. I still have the boxes and the crossfire bridge.

I wanted to let them go for 200$, I figured they would go pretty fast on eBay, so I'm asking here first to see if anyone's interested.

Giving back to the community and all that :)

P.S: I live in Montreal, Canada. Something to take into consideration. I can ship to the States and the U.S, obviously you'd pay for shipping.
 

ezekial45

Banned
Hey all,

after gaming for the past 3 1/2 years on a comp running a dual core 3.2ghz processor with an 8800 GT, I've had enough! In the next 2 month or so, I'll be able to afford a new PC. I've looked through the OP and I've selected the parts that I think I'll be satisfied with. I just want a PC that'll be great for the foreseeable future. Plus, I want to make sure my cooling system is great. I found out some time after buying the 8800GT that it's been prone to overheating and high temps. I've endured many crashes due to overheating. I just want a PC that'll be reliable and won't cause trouble for me.

Can anyone look these parts over and see if they're all compatible and such? also, I'm open to some suggestions. If any. The only things that I'm a bit wary on are the GPU and RAM.

CPU: Intel Core i7-3770K Ivy Bridge 3.5GHz (3.9GHz Turbo)
Motherboard: ASUS P8Z77-V PRO LGA 1155 Intel Z77 HDMI SATA 6Gb/s
RAM: G.SKILL Ripjaws Series 8GB (2 x 4GB) 240-Pin DDR3 SDRAM DDR3 1600 (PC3 12800)
Storage:
SSD SAMSUNG 830 Series MZ-7PC256B/WW 2.5" 256GB SATA III MLC
&
HDD SAMSUNG Spinpoint F3 HD103SJ 1TB 7200 RPM 32MB Cache SATA 3.0Gb/s 3.5

Power Supply: CORSAIR CMPSU-750TX 750W ATX12V v2.2 SLI Certified CrossFire Ready 80 PLUS Certified Active PFC Compatible with Core i7 Power Supply
Optical Drive: ASUS Black 12X BD-R 2X BD-RE 16X DVD+R 12X DVD-RAM 8X BD-ROM 8MB
Heatsink: COOLER MASTER Hyper 212 Plus RR-B10-212P-G1
Sound Card: ASUS Xonar DGX 5.1 Channels 24-bit 96KHz PCI
GPU: Radeon HD 7970 3GB 384-bit GDDR5 PCI Express 3.0 x16

Can you guys recommend a good case? I'm not really into flashy cases, and I'm seeing alot of those on newegg.
 

mkenyon

Banned
Guys I just upgraded my PC's memory from 4GB to 8GB and after fooling around I noticed that my Windows partition had about 5GB of free space (If I remember correclty before the upgrade I had ~10GB I think), I looked around and apparently it's my page file settings, after the upgrade it looks like this:

c139d011fac7e3aa8e54619f7729f0179526fa54.PNG


I thinking this is probably normal but It's not acceptable for me as it is cutting it too close with the free space on that partition, I don't remember what value it had before when I had 4GB RAM but I'd like to either put that value back (assuming someone knows it) or get rid of the whole thing but I don't know how that will affect my system.

Help please!
You can turn off your page file with 8GB of RAM.
I know that you can install W7 from USB thumb-stick, however I'm under the impression that to do that you still need some other PC capable of reading a DVD from which you'd intitially transfer the data over to said thumb-stick. My current poopy PC only has a CD drive, so that isn't an option.

What I'm wondering is whether Microsoft allow you to grab the appropriate Windows 7 software directly from them free of charge, with the requirement of you to authorise the subsequent installation of it with the registration key that you'd get in the boxed copy of the OS before the software can be used.

Is this a thing wot can be dun?
You can download legit Win 7 ISO's, do a quick google search. I think there are ones that are already good to go for USB sticks too.

*edit* Here: http://www.microsoftstore.com/store/msstore/html/pbPage.Help_Win7_usbdvd_dwnTool
Hey all,

after gaming for the past 3 1/2 years on a comp running a dual core 3.2ghz processor with an 8800 GT, I've had enough! In the next 2 month or so, I'll be able to afford a new PC. I've looked through the OP and I've selected the parts that I think I'll be satisfied with. I just want a PC that'll be great for the foreseeable future. Plus, I want to make sure my cooling system is great. I found out some time after buying the 8800GT that it's been prone to overheating and high temps. I've endured many crashes due to overheating. I just want a PC that'll be reliable and won't cause trouble for me.

Can anyone look these parts over and see if they're all compatible and such? also, I'm open to some suggestions. If any. The only things that I'm a bit wary on are the GPU and RAM.

CPU: Intel Core i7-3770K Ivy Bridge 3.5GHz (3.9GHz Turbo)
Motherboard: ASUS P8Z77-V PRO LGA 1155 Intel Z77 HDMI SATA 6Gb/s
RAM: G.SKILL Ripjaws Series 8GB (2 x 4GB) 240-Pin DDR3 SDRAM DDR3 1600 (PC3 12800)
Storage:
SSD SAMSUNG 830 Series MZ-7PC256B/WW 2.5" 256GB SATA III MLC
&
HDD SAMSUNG Spinpoint F3 HD103SJ 1TB 7200 RPM 32MB Cache SATA 3.0Gb/s 3.5

Power Supply: CORSAIR CMPSU-750TX 750W ATX12V v2.2 SLI Certified CrossFire Ready 80 PLUS Certified Active PFC Compatible with Core i7 Power Supply
Optical Drive: ASUS Black 12X BD-R 2X BD-RE 16X DVD+R 12X DVD-RAM 8X BD-ROM 8MB
Heatsink: COOLER MASTER Hyper 212 Plus RR-B10-212P-G1
Sound Card: ASUS Xonar DGX 5.1 Channels 24-bit 96KHz PCI
GPU: Radeon HD 7970 3GB 384-bit GDDR5 PCI Express 3.0 x16

Can you guys recommend a good case? I'm not really into flashy cases, and I'm seeing alot of those on newegg.
Go up a couple of posts and I have a 670 for a killer price! But, if you want a 7970 (and it is indeed a better card) get the MSI Twin Frozr or Sapphire dual fan cards.

For cases, it depends on your definition of flashy. If you were to pick something more in line with your tastes out of these three, which would it be? Bitfenix Shinobi XL, NZXT Switch 810, or CM Storm Stryker?

FGCtxh.jpg


ywXgjh.jpg


Hdamah.jpg
 

ezekial45

Banned
Go up a couple of posts and I have a 670 for a killer price! But, if you want a 7970 (and it is indeed a better card) get the MSI Twin Frozr or Sapphire dual fan cards.

For cases, it depends on your definition of flashy. If you were to pick something more in line with your tastes out of these three, which would it be? Bitfenix Shinobi XL, NZXT Switch 810, or CM Storm Stryker?

Thanks, but I won't be able to afford all this till another month or so, which I plan to buy in bulk. Though I am starting to reconsider the 7970. I read through some of the feedback and found out that it can get pretty loud and hot. That's sorta bugging me out now. Is there another alternative? I'm not sure if I want the gtx680, it's pretty pricey.


I do like this one. Does it come in black?
 

mkenyon

Banned
It does in fact. Comes in Matte and Gloss black even! Also, matte gunmetal gray. It's a pretty outstanding case, and Microcenter has them on super sale if you are nearby one. NZXT Switch 810. It's a phenomenal case.

Just in case, take a gander at the Fractal Define R4 (with window), Fractal Arc Midi, and Silverstone TJ04. The Define R4 is a really glossy black that looks absolutely gorgeous in person. The Define series has the best stock paint/powdercoat I've laid eyes on.

*edit*

The other alternative would be a GTX670 or getting a 7970 with a really nice cooler as laid out above. The noise difference is staggering when you compare the AMD reference cards to the custom cooler ones.

http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16814102982

http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16814125413

Those both run really cool and quiet.
 

mkenyon

Banned
Are you talking full on water cooling like this?

Xu83oh.jpg


Or one of the closed loop systems like the H100?

h100_rad_v2.png


*edit*

Also, after reading around, looks like the reference 670 is a bit quieter than even the aftermarket 7970s. Pretty impressive. (okay, I'll stop trying to sell it now)
 

Noaloha

Member
You can download legit Win 7 ISO's, do a quick google search. I think there are ones that are already good to go for USB sticks too.

*edit* Here: http://www.microsoftstore.com/store/msstore/html/pbPage.Help_Win7_usbdvd_dwnTool

Cheers for the reply. I'm still not 100% on this though (and forgive me if I'm missing something!).

The MS page there looks like it's referring to a process whereby you've purchased the .ISO through their store. I've just ordered the physical W7 box for Saturday delivery when I neglected to also get the optical drive, so I won't be buying W7 digitally through MS's shop. Does the process in that link also support this (wrong and backwards-arse) way of doing it?

I assume that a registration key will be in the box that I'll receive Saturday but I was hoping that the actual software itself could be grabbed digitally, easily, freely from MS.

The more I think over it, the more convinced I am that - by buying the physical copy - I've herded myself down a path where I need an optical drive to access the software. I imagine there to be all sorts of exploits that would arise if MS just said, "Grab the software from us no questions asked and then you can just use the registration key you purchased elsewhere!"

Man, I wish I'd just remembered to include the DVD drive on this order, ha. It's not like it's the end of the worldor anything; worst case scenario, I can just buy a DVD drive this afternoon from a brick&mortar shop. My reluctance to do that boils down to a combination of 1) really wanting a plain, black-bezelled drive without manufacturer logo, and 2) the brick&mortar shop in question being PC-World. And PC-World are shitheads.
 

mkenyon

Banned
I know there are windows approved downloads of the ISOs (without needing to buy it), I just cant seem to find them after a quick google search. Hopefully someone else will speak up, otherwise some more google-fu should find them.
 

lexi

Banned
You can turn off your page file with 8GB of RAM.

I wouldn't recommend this.

I run with 16gb of RAM and tried running with the page file off to save space on my SSD... Short version is you're better off running with a fixed page file of something like 512mb. You can run into all sorts of dramas with no page file -- and 8gb is probably just small enough for your system to still need to commit to the page file occasionally.
 

Noaloha

Member
<3 you guys!

The cursory early-morning Googles that I was doing were bringing up nothing but less-than-legit options from what I could tell. I'm in your debt.
 
You can turn off your page file with 8GB of RAM.

You can download legit Win 7 ISO's, do a quick google search. I think there are ones that are already good to go for USB sticks too.

*edit* Here: http://www.microsoftstore.com/store/msstore/html/pbPage.Help_Win7_usbdvd_dwnTool

Go up a couple of posts and I have a 670 for a killer price! But, if you want a 7970 (and it is indeed a better card) get the MSI Twin Frozr or Sapphire dual fan cards.

For cases, it depends on your definition of flashy. If you were to pick something more in line with your tastes out of these three, which would it be? Bitfenix Shinobi XL, NZXT Switch 810, or CM Storm Stryker?


no no no, don't do that. some games and programs still need the page file (yeah I know) for reason or another. just put as small as you are allowed.
 

ezekial45

Banned
Coin to bed, been meaning to make an intro guide, so I'll post that tomorrow. tl;dr of it is ~$500 in parts. You need radiator(s), a pump, CPU and videocard block, fittings, coolant/dye, and fans.

Ugh, screw that. I'll stick with the fans. Thanks for the posts.

Does anyone else have anything to say about these specs I posted?

Hey all,

after gaming for the past 3 1/2 years on a comp running a dual core 3.2ghz processor with an 8800 GT, I've had enough! In the next 2 month or so, I'll be able to afford a new PC. I've looked through the OP and I've selected the parts that I think I'll be satisfied with. I just want a PC that'll be great for the foreseeable future. Plus, I want to make sure my cooling system is great. I found out some time after buying the 8800GT that it's been prone to overheating and high temps. I've endured many crashes due to overheating. I just want a PC that'll be reliable and won't cause trouble for me.

Can anyone look these parts over and see if they're all compatible and such? also, I'm open to some suggestions. If any. The only things that I'm a bit wary on are the GPU and RAM.

CPU: Intel Core i7-3770K Ivy Bridge 3.5GHz (3.9GHz Turbo)
Motherboard: ASUS P8Z77-V PRO LGA 1155 Intel Z77 HDMI SATA 6Gb/s
RAM: G.SKILL Ripjaws Series 8GB (2 x 4GB) 240-Pin DDR3 SDRAM DDR3 1600 (PC3 12800)
Storage:
SSD SAMSUNG 830 Series MZ-7PC256B/WW 2.5" 256GB SATA III MLC
&
HDD SAMSUNG Spinpoint F3 HD103SJ 1TB 7200 RPM 32MB Cache SATA 3.0Gb/s 3.5

Power Supply: CORSAIR CMPSU-750TX 750W ATX12V v2.2 SLI Certified CrossFire Ready 80 PLUS Certified Active PFC Compatible with Core i7 Power Supply
Optical Drive: ASUS Black 12X BD-R 2X BD-RE 16X DVD+R 12X DVD-RAM 8X BD-ROM 8MB
Heatsink: COOLER MASTER Hyper 212 Plus RR-B10-212P-G1
Sound Card: ASUS Xonar DGX 5.1 Channels 24-bit 96KHz PCI
GPU: Radeon HD 7970 3GB 384-bit GDDR5 PCI Express 3.0 x16
OR
EVGA 02G-P4-2678-KR GeForce GTX 670 FTW 2GB 256-bit GDDR5


Can you guys recommend a good case? I'm not really into flashy cases, and I'm seeing alot of those on newegg.
 

Evlar

Banned
OK, so here it is then. Finally upgrading the old PC. And by old, I mean "I built this rig to play Half Life 2". I've squeezed every last drop out of it; time to move on.

CPU: Intel Core i5-3570K Ivy Bridge 3.4GHz LGA 1155 77W
Mobo: ASUS P8Z77-V LK LGA
Memory: Crucial 8GB (2 x 4GB) SDRAM DDR3 1600
GPU: XFX Radeon HD 7850 1GB
Storage (SSD): SAMSUNG 830 Series MZ-7PC128D/AM 2.5" 128GB SATA III
Storage (HD): SAMSUNG Spinpoint F3 1TB 7200 RPM 32MB Cache SATA 3.0Gb/s 3.5"
Optical: ASUS 24X DVD Burner
Audio: ASUS XONAR_DG 5.1
PSU: SeaSonic M12II 520 Bronze 520W
Case: NZXT H2 Black Silent ATX Mid Tower Chassis
Heatsink: COOLER MASTER Hyper 212 Plus

It's essentially the "Sweet Spot" build from TechReport linked from the OP, with a better SSD and the custom heatsink.

Is that 7850 the best bang for the buck?
 
OK, so here it is then. Finally upgrading the old PC. And by old, I mean "I built this rig to play Half Life 2". I've squeezed every last drop out of it; time to move on.

CPU: Intel Core i5-3570K Ivy Bridge 3.4GHz LGA 1155 77W
Mobo: ASUS P8Z77-V LK LGA
Memory: Crucial 8GB (2 x 4GB) SDRAM DDR3 1600
GPU: XFX Radeon HD 7850 1GB
Storage (SSD): SAMSUNG 830 Series MZ-7PC128D/AM 2.5" 128GB SATA III
Storage (HD): SAMSUNG Spinpoint F3 1TB 7200 RPM 32MB Cache SATA 3.0Gb/s 3.5"
Optical: ASUS 24X DVD Burner
Audio: ASUS XONAR_DG 5.1
PSU: SeaSonic M12II 520 Bronze 520W
Case: NZXT H2 Black Silent ATX Mid Tower Chassis
Heatsink: COOLER MASTER Hyper 212 Plus

It's essentially the "Sweet Spot" build from TechReport linked from the OP, with a better SSD and the custom heatsink.

Is that 7850 the best bang for the buck?


Get the 2gb version of the 7850 since it gives you some breathing room plus a few games can eat the VRAM and go over a 1gb (IIRC Witcher 2 can do it and Skyrim with mods).
 
Cancelled my GTX 670 order...

and bought it from a different outlet, saving ~16€! Time to spend that money on games!

*ends up spening more than 100€*
 

Spazo

Member
Hey guys

Need some help to buy a new printer to my girlfriend. She is a primary teacher

Here is what I need:

- price between 150$ and 300$
- High quality color printing for images
- Scanner
- Print speed does not bother me, as long as the quality is there
- Wireless, if possible

There are laser and inkjet printer. I'm lost on what I should take

Any advise ?
 

Karmum

Banned
Oh man, 660Ti looks like it's the real deal, need to find someone I can dump my 460s on...

Or just cough up a little extra money for a 670. Shit man, shit. $250 for two 460s wouldn't be too much of highway robbery, right?
 

Birbo

Member
Following years of dreaming about it, I think I'm finally going to put together a machine to hook up to my TV and use as a HTPC & gaming system. Was recently inspired by this article on Lifehacker for a low cost media center that supposedly runs just about anything.

Here's the specs on it:

CPU: AMD A8-3850 Llano 2.9GHz
Motherboard: ASRock A75M-ITX
Storage: Western Digital Caviar Green 2TB
Optical Drive: LITE-ON Blu-Ray Combo Drive
Case: APEX MI-008 Mini-ITX

As I mentioned, this will be used as my media hub hooked up to my entertainment system (65" 1080p plasma & 7.1 sound). Going to play blu rays on it, put XBMC on it to access my media files and want to game in comfy couch mode. I love the small form factor of this build and the sub $500 price. Are there any changes I should make to what was suggested? Not looking to build until the end of the year. Is there a better graphics card that would fit the case I should look at?

Any input would be appreciated. Thanks in advance.
 

mkenyon

Banned
A8 can run stuff like Source and WoW, but its certainly not capable of running newer games at a decent frame rate at 1080p.

If you know that going in, its a great build. I use AMD fusion myself for a HTPC. I've ran Limbo and some other graphics lite games on it.

If you do find yourself wanting more, buy a case that allows you to crossfire with one of the low power 6 series cards.

*edit

You do not want a caviar green as your OS drive, and I'd advise against them for any use due to reliability. If the data isn't super important or if you have a backup system, go for it.

Grab a small 60-64 SSD. It will dramatically alter the everyday experience of using it for browsing or navigating programs. Use the HDD to store media.
 

mkenyon

Banned
Just through the intro on this, but this is looking like an amazing article. Must read!

http://arstechnica.com/information-...e-second-gaming-performance-with-todays-cpus/

Finally, some empirical data that explains the sluggishness of AMD processors that isn't evident in avg frame rate!

This is a snapshot of the frame latency picture; it's the point below which 99% of all frames have been rendered. We're simply excluding the last 1% of frames, many of them potential outliers, to get a sense of overall smoothness.

Again, the Intel processors perform well. All but one of them render the great majority of frames in under 23 milliseconds, which translates to a steady-state frame rate of just under 50 FPS. There is some reshuffling in the move from FPS average to a latency-sensitive metric—the "big iron" Core i7-3820 with its large cache and quad memory channels moves up the ranks, for instance—but the changes are what one might expect, given the hardware in question.

Meanwhile, the AMD FX processors suffer in this comparison. The FX-8150, which is ostensibly AMD's top-of-the-line desktop processor, trails two older Phenom IIs and the FX-4170. The FX-6200 falls behind the A8-3850, a budget APU based on AMD's prior CPU microarchitecture. The absolute numbers aren't stellar, either. The FX processors are cranking out 99% of the frames in 33 milliseconds or so, which translates to a steady rate of 30 FPS—much lower than even the slower Intel processors.

What's the problem? The broader latency curve suggests some answers.

The "tail" of the curve for the AMD processors is telling. Although the FX chips keep pace with the Phenom II X6 1100T in the first 95% or so of frames rendered, their frame times spike upward to meet the slower A8-3850 budget APU and Phenom II X4 850 in the last ~5% of frames. In the most crucial function of gaming performance, latency avoidance, the more expensive FX processors essentially perform like low-end CPUs.

Why? I think the answer is suggested by the relatively strong performance of the FX-4170 compared to the FX-6200 and FX-8150. As we noted, the FX-4170 actually has the highest base and Turbo clock speeds of the FX lineup. That means it likely has the highest per-thread performance of any FX chip, and that appears to translate into better latency mitigation. (I also suspect the FX-4170 spends more time operating near its peak Turbo speed, since it only has to fit two "modules" and four cores into the same 125W thermal envelope as the higher-end FX chips.)

Looks to me like the FX CPUs have an Amdahl's Law problem. Even though they have a relatively large amount of cores for their given product segments, their per-thread performance is fairly weak. The Bulldozer architecture combines relatively low instruction throughput per cycle with clock speeds that aren't as high as AMD probably anticipated. That adds up to modest per-thread performance—and even with lots of cores on hand, the execution speed of a single thread can limit an application's throughput.

Thus, the FX-6200 and FX-8150 processors aren't as well-suited to our Skyrim test scenario as their predecessors in the Phenom II lineup. Only the FX-4170 outperforms the CPU it replaces, the Phenom II X4 850, whose lack of L3 cache and modest 3.3GHz clock frequency aren't doing it any favors.
 

Birbo

Member
A8 can run stuff like Source and WoW, but its certainly not capable of running newer games at a decent frame rate at 1080p.

If you do find yourself wanting more, buy a case that allows you to crossfire with one of the low power 6 series cards.

I'd like it to be able to run my backlog of Steam games at a decent rate, but am not looking to break the bank on it. Is there a better mini case that can hold another card?
 
How the hell case fans are so different in price?

I understand a pound or two for brand, but how the hell Arctic Cooling fans cost at least 3x cheaper than Corsair? Is there something so much better on expensive fans (Corsair, Nocture, Scythe)?
 

mkenyon

Banned
I'd like it to be able to run my backlog of Steam games at a decent rate, but am not looking to break the bank on it. Is there a better mini case that can hold another card?
Yeah, Silver stone and Lian Li make a number of really nice itx cases.
How the hell case fans are so different in price?

I understand a pound or two for brand, but how the hell Arctic Cooling fans cost at least 3x cheaper than Corsair? Is there something so much better on expensive fans (Corsair, Nocture, Scythe)?
With fans, you have four important factors. Noise, airflow, static pressure, and aesthetics.

Generally reducing noise means a reduction in airflow and pressure. The expensive fans find ways through using better motors, blade design, and enclosure so this trade off isn't as big. Some fans go to insane lengths in order to maintain high static pressure which you need for radiator or heat sink duty.

For example, take a close look at the Noctua NF-F12. The struts that hold the enclosure together are all at a different pitch to help focus airflow. The blades are all angled in such a way to work with the struts in order to increase that focus. There are even little fins that come off each blade to reduce the turbulence and create mini cyclones that work with the blades and struts while reducing wind noise.
 

Noaloha

Member
How the hell case fans are so different in price?

I understand a pound or two for brand, but how the hell Arctic Cooling fans cost at least 3x cheaper than Corsair? Is there something so much better on expensive fans (Corsair, Nocture, Scythe)?

I think it's the difference between one product actually being engineered in-house and the other product simply being manufactured according to basic fan theory. One product's intent is to push shitloads of air with barely audible noise-levels and the other product's intent is just... to push the air.

I've no doubt that there is some element of brand premium that's placed on the price, but it's nowhere near as pronounced as in other consumer categories where the products across price boundaries are near identical yet you're paying +500% for the logo.
 

mkenyon

Banned
Corsair AF/SP, Noctuas, Scythe GTs, and a host of others are priced appropriately.

It's performance that you can not get elsewhere.
 

cametall

Member
Any opinions on the HIS IceQ video cards (more specifically the HD 7950)? I've read the cooling is excellent but I never see them recommended any where.
 

Fjordson

Member
Would you guys recommend extra fans in the HAF 912 case? Comes with one front and one rear 120mm fan. Going to be running a i5 ivy bridge, GTX 670, 8 GB RAM.
 

Noaloha

Member
You might want to consider going for one extra fan in the side at least.

There was an article linked to in this thread a week or so ago which, after a bunch of tests, demonstrated that a side panel fan puts a lot of work in for you.
 

cametall

Member
Quickly asking again, how much recommended wattage for a psu for two gtx670s in sli?





Also:

Galaxy GeForce GTX 670 2GB

+ Borderlands 2 Game Coupon

$331 after $20 rebate + Free Shipping

On slickdeals

On newegg

In case if anyone's interested. No experience with the card, but it has the 680 PCB and is factory overclocked iirc.
 

Ceebs

Member
Anyone got a good suggestion for a monitor stand I can use on my Crossover? I need one that will let me pivot at least 90 degrees.

Can be either a stand or desk mounted arm.
 
Status
Not open for further replies.
Top Bottom