• Hey, guest user. Hope you're enjoying NeoGAF! Have you considered registering for an account? Come join us and add your take to the daily discourse.

"I need a New PC!" 2012 Thread. 22nm+28nm, Tri-Gate, and reading the OP. [Part 1]

Status
Not open for further replies.

Smokey

Member
mehhhhhhhhhh i think i'm going to have to RMA my GTX 690 :l

Been having issues the past few weeks. First, my GPUs usage has been abysmal. I am back on my 120hz monitor so naturally I want to get as close to 120hz as possible and in many cases the 690 was failing short. BF3 utilization was particularly bad. When I tried to run GPU-z on my machine it wouldn't read the full specs of the 690 for some reason either. Dunno if that has anything to do with this but it just seemed odd. My machine has also been freezing up more than usual as of late.

Then I tried to do a small OC of offset +100 on the core. I couldn't make it through Heaven without it crashing, although in games it seemed to do better. I upgraded to the newest beta drivers via a clean sweep using Driver Sweeper and still had issues. Last straw was yesterday. Loaded up Guild Wars 2 and again had utilization problems which were resulting in less than optimal frames. Deciding I had enough I went to the closet and pulled out my MSI Lighting Xtreme 580s and put them in my machine.

Immediate improvement. BF3 utilization stayed pegged at 98% - 99%. Tried GW2 again and was getting around the same utilization. As a result my frames were much much better and this made me a happier person. I didn't make any changes, simply hooked up my 580s and off I went. Glad I didn't get rid of them after all. I love these guys and the 3GB of VRAM doesn't hurt either. Maybe after I get a new 690 back from Evga I'll sell it off and stick with these...or look into some 4GB cards. Meh.

Sorry for rambling here just kind of pissed :l
 

mkenyon

Banned
That sucks man, sorry you had trouble with it.

Don't let a little bit of bad luck turn you off from their awesomeness. I'm loving mine, running GW2 has been a breeze.
I've got a very good 750, think that's more than enough for these cards.
I could save some money but I know I'll waste it on other random stuff instead..lol
Depending on OC, you're pushing 600W with two 580s alone. Depending on proc and some other stuff, you're looking at a total system draw of 700-800W. Running a power supply that close to spec is going to kill it.
 
Quick question:

When building my PC around January, I skimped out on a case and got a basic cooler-master and it was fine for what I had at the time. I had a small GTX570 + Stock cooler.

A month or so, I got the Asus 570 which is a damn big card, I doesn't actually fit in the case, you have to squeeze it in and move the cables around until it stays still. Also, have a new CPU cooler which vibrates the whole case since it's touching the outcase.

Besides the obvious cooling (I'm keeping a check on the GPU temps, mover around 60c gaming), is it worth upgrading to a better case?
 

Noaloha

Member
mmmm, this thread needs more of this. Sweet tasty computer gut porn.

I agree!

I'm a simple creature who's quite content just looking at pictures much of the time.

In all seriousness though, all of the cable manageyment that I put into my PC I picked up from nothing more than looking at build pics. Goldmine.

I confess I'm not a fan of the more overtly.. um, aggressive or 'Las Vegas'-ey builds though. I don't find HAF cases to be appealing at all for example. (Love this Arc Midi's understated design.) And if a build pic is bedecked in a thousand rainbow LEDs I'll make a tiny internal sadface. I'm more of a hippy. Which is why I have half a recycled pen tube holding up my videocard and - just recently - a strip of nice, furry tape-velcro covering the front of the new DVD tray.

I was seriously considering tying my cables together with parcel string.
 

mkenyon

Banned
Yes.

Processors, video cards, hard drives, SSDs all come and go.

A really nice case can last you *years*. That fact is why I'm always trying to push only the best on people.
I agree!

I'm a simple creature who's quite content just looking at pictures much of the time.

In all seriousness though, all of the cable manageyment that I put into my PC I picked up from nothing more than looking at build pics. Goldmine.

I confess I'm not a fan of the more overtly.. um, aggressive or Las Vegas builds though. I don't find HAF cases to be appealing at all for example. And if a build pic is bedecked in a thousand rainbow LEDs I'll make a tiny internal sadface. I'm more of a hippy. Which is why I have half a recycled pen tube holding up my videocard and - just recently - a strip of nice, furry tape-velcro covering the front of the new DVD tray.

I was seriously considering tying my cables together with parcel string.
You did an outstanding job for just giving it a go! There is a cable management guide in the OP though :p

Now that you've come this far, time for some uni-sleeved cables!

(self indulgent rig posting inc)

Hdamah.jpg
 
Having the fan on a radiator set up as intake makes sense for the cooler air, but the vast majority of builds that I've looked over the past few months seem to favour having them (specifically the Corsair H-series closed loops at least) as exhaust. It might not be something you actually need to do? Hopefully someone with more knowledge will clarify whether there's notable differences between intake & exhaust, or a rather miniscule difference, with things like overall case air-flow being more impactful.

Also, and forgive me if I misinterpreted your description, but it seemed like you were suggesting having the intake pulling air across the radiator rather than pushing. Again, sorry if that's not what you meant, but - on the off-chance that I didn't mis-infer - with an intake set-up you'd still want the fan 'behind' the radiator pushing through (ie. with your head inside the case, you'd see the radiator innermost with the fan hidden behind). Obviously push+pull set ups negate (or rather, build on) that.

(Note: I'm new to the game and I don't really feel qualified to be giving out advice, so take that with several handfuls of caution salt.)
I'd like to get a liquid cooler for the purpose of maybe overclocking my cpu in the future and to simply have a good performing temp overall for the cpu. Nothing is set in stone yet, I might end up getting a air cooled heatsink instead of liquid but I just don't know yet.

If I get the liquid cooler then I would have the radiator fan situated on the rear fan port, so the fan would have a direct connection with air outside the case. It would pull air in and push it through the radiator, I would imagine having the radiator mounted on the rear fan port and the fan behind the radiator pulling air in would be ok but it seems it's better to have the fan actually in front of the radiator so it can suck air in and through the radiator.
 

Noaloha

Member
There is a cable management guide in the OP though :p

Now that you've come this far, time for some uni-sleeved cables!

(self indulgent rig posting inc)

Hdamah.jpg

Following guides!? Pssh! No guts no glory. Then, afterwards, you just post in here with your glory-less tail between your legs and get set straight.

I saw a few of your builds across my other-forum travels (forget which one exactly). Michaelius or something (I got that wrong I'm sure). If I had the requisite materials to hand I'd definitely have played more with beautifying the innards -- as it is I pretty much left it at applying a small amount of pointless white insulation tape to my ugly-as-fuck Vengeance RAM in terms of purely vanity flourishes. The white beast you just posted looks like it uses a nice, what, acylic textured sticky tape? Bits like that tie a whole thing together when its done with a measured eye.

I've yet to fiddle too much with this build in terms of minutiae, but I'm definitely noticing the side fan as being the most audible thing across the rig. Not at all surprising since it's kind of facing me and is practically open air given that it's hidden behind nothing but a wide-pitted grill. I think my first 'indulgent' upgrade will be a much quieter case fan to replace it. I've tinkered a tiny bit with profiling that specific fan in the UEFI but it's still very much 'there'.


Oh, I actually have a question for the thread too:

This is me worrying no doubt, but the specifics of PSUs is a mystery to me. I don't really understand all the rails stuff in the slightest.

Just allay my worries and tell me that the following (as reported by some proprietary Asus AI Suite software) is normal:

Voltage
+12V -- 12.192V
+5V -- 5.120V
+3.3V -- 3.344V

The actual voltages are okay being higher than the descriptor values right?



*EDIT*

If I get the liquid cooler then I would have the radiator fan situated on the rear fan port, so the fan would have a direct connection with air outside the case. It would pull air in and push it through the radiator, I would imagine having the radiator mounted on the rear fan port and the fan behind the radiator pulling air in would be ok but it seems it's better to have the fan actually in front of the radiator so it can suck air in and through the radiator.

Yep, that's my understanding. Push air from behind, rather than pull from in front. Good fans are engineered specifically to manipulate air to create focused airflow in the 'output', where naturally there's no such possibility for manipulation of air that has yet to reach the fan.

Take a moment to read some reviews of the H-series closed loops by Corsair though. Things may have changed now, or be about to change or whatever, but the impression I got whilst doing my researches was that the H-series as a whole were a little iffy in terms of performance (when compared with price versus the good air-cooled options). The H-100 was the only model that I saw consistently good impressions of and, to further put the overall message in a worrying perspective, that high praise was usually paired with "if you ditch the supplied fans and replace with a pair of expensive discrete ones".

Long story short, there's a good reason that Hazaro recommends something like the 212+ in the OP. If you've money to burn (or you're just a reckless, irresponsible, 14-yr old 30-yr old tosspot like me) then a H100 plus a brace of NF-F12s seems like a nice pairing.
 
So let me get some more opinions here guys. I'm currently stress testing my i5-350k with prime 95 and so far my temps have been as followed
Current
Core 0-76c
Core 1-80c
Core 2-78c
Core 3-77c
Max-100 percent load
Core 0-79c
Core 1-82c
Core 2-82c
Core 3-81c
Min
Core 0-33c
Core 1-34c
Core 2-36c
Core 3-33c

My cpu temps seem ok for 100 percent load on all cores but I'd just like to lower those temps with a better heatsink, liquid or air cooled. My stock heatsink seems to be ok but I wouldn't want to overclock with my stock sink. Overall do my temps seem normal? I decided to buy arctic silver 5 to get the best cooling possible with my stock sink so let me know what you think of the numbers.
 

Fjordson

Member
Hey guys, I'm feeling a little hesitant about my case.

Right now I'm going with the HAF 912 mentioned in the OP. Going to be running a core i5 3570k + heatsink, 8 GB RAM, and a Gigabyte GTX 670, with a 650 watt Corsair power supply.

It comes with two 120mm fans, one front and one rear. If I picked up one more fan for the side, would that be enough ventilation/cooling? Or should I be looking at a roomier case?
 

Smokey

Member
That sucks man, sorry you had trouble with it.

Don't let a little bit of bad luck turn you off from their awesomeness. I'm loving mine, running GW2 has been a breeze.


What is your fps looking like? The 580s in SLI wasn't running too well so I disabled it and a single 580 was getting about 45-50 on average at highest settings (1080p).
 

Wazzim

Banned
Hey guys, I'm feeling a little hesitant about my case.

Right now I'm going with the HAF 912 mentioned in the OP. Going to be running a core i5 3570k + heatsink, 8 GB RAM, and a Gigabyte GTX 670, with a 650 watt Corsair power supply.

It comes with two 120mm fans, one front and one rear. If I picked up one more fan for the side, would that be enough ventilation/cooling? Or should I be looking at a roomier case?
It's ok but don't put a fan on the side, another front fan should be good.
 

Noaloha

Member
The clock is 3.4 to 3.8 The cpu was clocked at 3.8 throughout the whole stress test which lasted 58 mins.

On a 3570K, you should get similar temps from decent air-cool with clocks between 4.3-4.5 (with more extreme outliers) depending on where you came in the CPU lottery. A 212+'ll cost you, what, $25? It's £30 in the UK, so not sure. Regardless, it's a fairly nominal charge for a notable bump in what your CPU can handle comfortably (and that specific bump -- from below 4.0 to above 4.0 -- apparently makes a sizeable difference in certain games). With a decent closed-loop water arrangement, you *might* be looking at 4.4-4.7. The 3570Ks (IvyBridges in general I think) have a bit of a thermal wall at the sorts of voltage that might give clocks above 4.5ish though. Again, CPU lottery is manifest here.

The prudent person's option is a good air-cool for 30-40 monetary units. Idiots & enthusiasts indulge in arrangements that cost 100 to 500% more for an improvement of maybe, hopefully, a 10-50% bump in gained clock.

I'm somewhere in the middle, erring towards the idiot side. I shelled out a stupid amount of monies for H100 + Noctuas but I'm only aiming for 4.5 or so on 3570K. I may well have achieved that quite nicely on an air cooler that cost 30% of the £s.
 

Celcius

°Temp. member
mehhhhhhhhhh i think i'm going to have to RMA my GTX 690 :l

Been having issues the past few weeks. First, my GPUs usage has been abysmal. I am back on my 120hz monitor so naturally I want to get as close to 120hz as possible and in many cases the 690 was failing short. BF3 utilization was particularly bad. When I tried to run GPU-z on my machine it wouldn't read the full specs of the 690 for some reason either. Dunno if that has anything to do with this but it just seemed odd. My machine has also been freezing up more than usual as of late.

Then I tried to do a small OC of offset +100 on the core. I couldn't make it through Heaven without it crashing, although in games it seemed to do better. I upgraded to the newest beta drivers via a clean sweep using Driver Sweeper and still had issues. Last straw was yesterday. Loaded up Guild Wars 2 and again had utilization problems which were resulting in less than optimal frames. Deciding I had enough I went to the closet and pulled out my MSI Lighting Xtreme 580s and put them in my machine.

Immediate improvement. BF3 utilization stayed pegged at 98% - 99%. Tried GW2 again and was getting around the same utilization. As a result my frames were much much better and this made me a happier person. I didn't make any changes, simply hooked up my 580s and off I went. Glad I didn't get rid of them after all. I love these guys and the 3GB of VRAM doesn't hurt either. Maybe after I get a new 690 back from Evga I'll sell it off and stick with these...or look into some 4GB cards. Meh.

Sorry for rambling here just kind of pissed :l

Have you tried using a different/newer beta driver for the 690? Perhaps the driver you tried was great for the older 580's but not optimized for the newer card. (the 304.79 betas are great) If not then just ignore, just looking for any possible causes.
 
On a 3570K, you should get similar temps from decent air-cool with clocks between 4.3-4.5 (with more extreme outliers) depending on where you came in the CPU lottery. A 212+'ll cost you, what, $25? It's £30 in the UK, so not sure. Regardless, it's a fairly nominal charge for a notable bump in what your CPU can handle comfortably (and that specific bump -- from below 4.0 to above 4.0 -- apparently makes a sizeable difference in certain games). With a decent closed-loop water arrangement, you *might* be looking at 4.4-4.7. The 3570Ks (IvyBridges in general I think) have a bit of a thermal wall at the sorts of voltage that might give clocks above 4.5ish though. Again, CPU lottery is manifest here.

The prudent person's option is a good air-cool for 30-40 monetary units. Idiots & enthusiasts indulge in arrangements that cost 100 to 500% more for an improvement of maybe, hopefully, a 10-50% bump in gained clock.

I'm somewhere in the middle, erring towards the idiot side. I shelled out a stupid amount of monies for H100 + Noctuas but I'm only aiming for 4.5 or so on 3570K. I may well have achieved that quite nicely on an air cooler that cost 30% of the £s.
Ok cool. I'm entertaining the ideal of getting this air cooler unit http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16835608016
My target overclock would just be maybe 4.3 or 4.4. I have plenty of time to determine what I want to get because I have my pc built already and I have a future outlook for upgrading my system and the upgrade is surrounding the second 670 I'm getting.
 

Smokey

Member
Have you tried using a different/newer beta driver for the 690? Perhaps the driver you tried was great for the older 580's but not optimized for the newer card. (the 304.79 betas are great) If not then just ignore, just looking for any possible causes.

I'm on the 304.79s now after Mkenyon suggested I move to them with a clean install. Still had issues with the 690. I was on the 304.48 drivers, then went back to the WHQL drivers, and then went up to the 304.79s. Still had the same issues between each driver set.
 

cametall

Member
Any specific info on what Radeon's will be bundled with Sleeping Dogs?

Only 78XX series or is the 79XX series included too? I think the press release from AMD indicates only 78XX series cards and I've seen it mentioned that only the 7870 would be bundled with the game. :(

I'm holding off on buying a 7950, but if Sleeping Dogs isn't bundled I guess I should just get it if a sale comes up.

EDIT: Looks like the 7950 is included. Though the AMD website I found shows the bundle running from August 10 through the 31st http://sites.amd.com/us/promo/graphics/Pages/sleeping-dogs-terms-and-conditions.aspx
 

cackhyena

Member
So I'm seriously thinking about getting the 660ti when I get a little more scratch to replace my 4870. Will that as an upgrade be a pretty solid bump enough to play the new games on relatively high settings? I kinda just want to be able to float by until I see what crazy GPU will be required for next gen stuff when the time comes.
 

big_z

Member
whats a good keyboard? i dont want mechanical since they make too much noise and dont want a gaudy gaming keyboard but it needs to work well with games. i've read some keyboards limit button combos that fuck you over in games.
 

mkenyon

Banned
Not all mechanical keyboards are loud. Reds and black are only as loud as the keys bottoming out. The switch is silent. CM QuickFire Rapid Red, Leopold red/black, and rosewill red/black are all inexpensive.
 

Sanjay

Member

Data West

coaches in the WNBA
Any chance of you being in the Pacific NW? Even if not, I can build you a PC and ship it to you for cheaper than any of the pre-built crap.
Well, it sounds bad, but I really want A) something I can have pretty soon, and B) I'm looking for a reason to build up my credit with my Amazon storecard. To me, I'm much better about paying something over a long period of time than saving up for a long period of time. I'm better at not wasting money on other stuff when I do that.
 

big_z

Member
Not all mechanical keyboards are loud. Reds and black are only as loud as the keys bottoming out. The switch is silent. CM QuickFire Rapid Red, Leopold red/black, and rosewill red/black are all inexpensive.

they are still louder than standard keyboards, which are loud enough.
 

MrBig

Member
they are still louder than standard keyboards, which are loud enough.

Yeah a Red/Brown mech would be great. You can get o-rings to dampen the sound of the keys bottoming out if they bother you but they really don't make much noise. Mech keyboards are the only boards I know of that bother to mitigate the key press limitations, either via PS/2 ports or emulating multiple keyboards at a firmware level.

Alternatively there's scissor switches like in the Logitech Illuminated keyboard, which are quiet but still aren't as precise and fluid as a real mechanical board.
 

big_z

Member
Alternatively there's scissor switches like in the Logitech Illuminated keyboard, which are quiet but still aren't as precise and fluid as a real mechanical board.

yeah i was looking at the Logitech Illuminated keyboard, both wired and wireless. read some older reviews that they suffer from bad key blocking, even stuff like w+shift+space dont work which sucks for games. the keyboard has undergone some revisions so maybe it's been fixed. anyone that has this keyboard want to give their opinion and if it still suffers from key blocking?
 
Any specific info on what Radeon's will be bundled with Sleeping Dogs?

Only 78XX series or is the 79XX series included too? I think the press release from AMD indicates only 78XX series cards and I've seen it mentioned that only the 7870 would be bundled with the game. :(

I'm holding off on buying a 7950, but if Sleeping Dogs isn't bundled I guess I should just get it if a sale comes up.

EDIT: Looks like the 7950 is included. Though the AMD website I found shows the bundle running from August 10 through the 31st http://sites.amd.com/us/promo/graphics/Pages/sleeping-dogs-terms-and-conditions.aspx

Wait the promotion starts already then and goes to 2013?

I wonder when newegg will be ready
 

Enlil

Member
GAF I need opinion.

I've got a single GTX580, should I sell it and go for a 680 or just pick up another 580 and SLI it ? (will cost me a little bit more overall, considering I'm not selling anything, but manageable.)

Don't forget, the 600 series uses less power. so if money is something you care about....you will save allot of money on the 600 series in the long run.

Something i took in considertation when buying my GPU.
 

cackhyena

Member
So I'm seriously thinking about getting the 660ti when I get a little more scratch to replace my 4870. Will that as an upgrade be a pretty solid bump enough to play the new games on relatively high settings? I kinda just want to be able to float by until I see what crazy GPU will be required for next gen stuff when the time comes.

Anybody?
 

Noaloha

Member
Spent the afternoon dipping my toes into this OCing thing I've heard so much about.

I read a bunch of guides and kept thinking that I knew what I was doing, trying stuff out, being happy with my methodology, then reading more guides and realising that I was doing stuff all wrong. For a while there I was convinced I'd found a good 4.7GHz clock on this 3570K with a Vcore of *only* 1.4V. I've since come to understand that that's, uh, not exactly optimal.

The theory behind choosing what numbers to use for offsets is still a little hazy in my understanding but, if I've got this straight in my head, according to CoreTemp the CPU has a 'VID' (no idea) of 1.2310V and I used an offset of +0.045V to bring it up (in theory) to around 1.27-1.28V under load.

That latest attempt gave me these numbers,


30 minutes of Prime95 with a 3570K
multiplier, 100x46
core voltage, 1.272V
max temps, 65/73/69/65



I *think* that's fine?
 

Hazaro

relies on auto-aim
660Ti will be a complete monster compared to your card.
What CPU are you using though? Check the CPU article in the OP under News.
Spent the afternoon dipping my toes into this OCing thing I've heard so much about.

I read a bunch of guides and kept thinking that I knew what I was doing, trying stuff out, being happy with my methodology, then reading more guides and realising that I was doing stuff all wrong. For a while there I was convinced I'd found a good 4.7GHz clock on this 3570K with a Vcore of *only* 1.4V. I've since come to understand that that's, uh, not exactly optimal.

The theory behind choosing what numbers to use for offsets is still a little hazy in my understanding but, if I've got this straight in my head, according to CoreTemp the CPU has a 'VID' (no idea) of 1.2310V and I used an offset of +0.045V to bring it up (in theory) to around 1.27-1.28V under load.

That latest attempt gave me these numbers,


30 minutes of Prime95 with a 3570K
multiplier, 100x46
core voltage, 1.272V
max temps, 65/73/69/65



I *think* that's fine?
Seems pretty solid. I'd personally try to back down on voltage to 1.25V or lower, but many run higher. Nice clocks!

Offset I use 0.0000V then load the CPU. If 0.00000V gets you 1.23V then you just add or subtract from that value.
 

Seguin

Banned
Hey computer guys, does anyone have any suggestions for a comfortable set up for using my PC with keyboard/mouse on my TV? Comfy couch, etc
 

cackhyena

Member
I was watching a tutorial vid on it where the guy said he doesn't really like to go over 1.3, so I figured play it safe and shoot for never coming near that.
 
Hey computer guys, does anyone have any suggestions for a comfortable set up for using my PC with keyboard/mouse on my TV? Comfy couch, etc

Get yourself an Ikea DAVE.


yeah i was looking at the Logitech Illuminated keyboard, both wired and wireless. read some older reviews that they suffer from bad key blocking, even stuff like w+shift+space dont work which sucks for games. the keyboard has undergone some revisions so maybe it's been fixed. anyone that has this keyboard want to give their opinion and if it still suffers from key blocking?

I would also like to know this.
 
I wonder when any retailer will start offering the bundle.

apparently it was in the "next 2 to 3 weeks" as they announced it at the same time as the new price drop.

Though the promo says its already started they must be preparing the keys, printing the vouchers (Newegg), giving them to the promo partners,etc
 

cackhyena

Member
I see it says the 3570k has the 4000 series integrated graphics. Is my 4870 only just comparable with it? Like, is it even necessary? Wondering if I can get anything at all for it to go towards the 660Ti. Not sure who's going to want a 4870 at this point, though.
 

MrBig

Member
I see it says the 3570k has the 4000 series integrated graphics. Is my 4870 only just comparable with it? Like, is it even necessary? Wondering if I can get anything at all for it to go towards the 660Ti. Not sure who's going to want a 4870 at this point, though.
That 4000 is intels integrated gpu, not comparable. Look up benchmarks. 4870 isn't worth much but you can Try or keep it as a backup to use in some system.
 

cackhyena

Member
Guess I'll have to try and offload it for next to nothing at some point. No other system but this one, and I literally know nobody that could use it.
 

Smokey

Member

I'm going to put my 690 in one more time and try it at 1920x1080 and at 2560x1600.

For clean install of drivers, is a sweep of Driver Sweeper all that is needed? Or do other steps need to be taken?

Trying to double check everything before/if I have to send the card in.
 

Celcius

°Temp. member
^^I've never used driver sweeper. I just uninstall the drivers, then go to the C: drive and delete all the nvidia folders such as:

C:\NVIDIA
C:\Program Files\NVIDIA Corporation
C:\Program Files (x86)\NVIDIA Corporation

to make sure the old files are gone. Then simply install the new drivers. I think there's a box in the 300 series drivers you can check upon installation that says "perform clean installation".

Also, you mentioned that your machine had been freezing up. Have you tried running the cpu at stock and seeing if the utilization improves?
 

Smokey

Member
^^I've never used driver sweeper. I just uninstall the drivers, then go to the C: drive and delete all the nvidia folders such as:

C:NVIDIA
C:program FilesNVIDIA Corporation
C:program Files (x86)NVIDIA Corporation

to make sure the old files are gone. Then simply install the new drivers. I think there's a box in the 300 series drivers you can check upon installation that says "perform clean installation".

Also, you mentioned that your machine had been freezing up. Have you tried running the cpu at stock and seeing if the utilization improves?

No didn't try that either that's a good idea. So I've got some things to try now thanks.
 
Status
Not open for further replies.
Top Bottom