Was about this post this awhile ago. Lucky for the people who get it.
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"I need a New PC!" 2012 Thread. 22nm+28nm, Tri-Gate, and reading the OP. [Part 1]
- Thread starter Hazaro
- Start date
- Status
Antiochus
Member
Will this case:
Antec 300 Illusion Black Steel Mid ATX
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16811129066
be large and cool enough for one overclocked 7970?
Antec 300 Illusion Black Steel Mid ATX
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16811129066
be large and cool enough for one overclocked 7970?
evil solrac v3.0
Member
18.30" x 8.10" x 18.00"
those are the dimensions and the 7970 is about 11 inches? so yeah it should be good enough.
Do you already own it?
Antiochus
Member
No. Hence the reason the question was asked
civilstrife
Member
Ok, kind of an esoteric question coming up:
When do you think is the best time in the console cycle to get a new PC?
I know I could easily build something now that will trump PS4 and 720 technically. But taking optimization into account and upgraded PC ports, is now really the best bet? Will a $1000 PC today be able to breeze through a late-generation UE4 720 port with ease?
I guess only time will tell, but as a comparison, how are games like Skyrim and Sleeping Dogs doing on PCs built in 2006?
When do you think is the best time in the console cycle to get a new PC?
I know I could easily build something now that will trump PS4 and 720 technically. But taking optimization into account and upgraded PC ports, is now really the best bet? Will a $1000 PC today be able to breeze through a late-generation UE4 720 port with ease?
I guess only time will tell, but as a comparison, how are games like Skyrim and Sleeping Dogs doing on PCs built in 2006?
TyrantGuardian
Member
Pretty well afaik, assuming you built a reasonably priced high-end rig back then. Especially if you're able to upgrade the GPU down the line. That said, certain recent games really push CPUs pretty hard, which of course would require a new motherboard as well. You can most likely still keep any good quality case, ram and psu without issue. Simply put - I wouldn't worry too much about it. Just build whatever solid computer you can that suits your needs right now, make sure it supports the most recent standards and you'll notice when certain parts become obsolete.
This is the same price right now, a case that was originally $200. Fully aluminum. Will hold just about anything, even SR2/SRX boards.
*edit* Two more cases for you on sale:
Fractal Arc Mini. Still one of my most favorite cases I've ever had. My old build in it (with a 7970)
Fractal Core 3000. This fits an ATX motherboard.
The only people who could answer this question with a reasonable response are the very people working on the engines.
My only guess is that PCs are already so far ahead of console technology, and so much of what is out there is going totally unused. Especially processors. Now is a great time to buy. But, this is totally speculation.
SSD and Windows 7 arrived! After three months, MY FIRST ELECTRONIC CHILD IS ALIVE!*
Excuse the rushed pics,
front shot -
back shot -
vanity shot -
!
#######
oh, forgot, specs:
Sabertooth Z77
3570K
Asus 7970 DCU2 (non-TOP)
2x4BG Vengeance (the 1.5v stuff with ridiculous-looking heatsinks)
Samsung 830 256GB
Corsair TX650 Enthsusiast
Fractal Arc Midi
H100 with NF-F12s in top as exhaust
2 Fractal case fans in front as intake
1 Fractal case fan in side as intake
#######
* She's not actually alive. Comatose, effectively, since I wasn't able to successfully boot Windows from USB. I ran into a shitload of problems last night trying to create a bootable USB stick on this current XP computer. I eventually managed to complete the .ISO install but was met with the message that (paraphrase) "The Windows 7 USB tool process is 100% complete. However, we weren't able to access Bootsect, so your stick won't actually be recognised as a bootable drive. You're welcome!"
A few Googles informed me that others had come across this and some found that it still booted just fine. Not me. The BIOS don't like it none.
I know there was another way of creating the bootable windows stick that involved command line prompts which supposedly circumnavigates the bootsect issue, so I'm gonna give that a try. If that fails, fuck it, I'm walking into town to buy an exorbitantly overpriced DVD drive.
Excuse the rushed pics,
front shot -
back shot -
vanity shot -
!#######
oh, forgot, specs:
Sabertooth Z77
3570K
Asus 7970 DCU2 (non-TOP)
2x4BG Vengeance (the 1.5v stuff with ridiculous-looking heatsinks)
Samsung 830 256GB
Corsair TX650 Enthsusiast
Fractal Arc Midi
H100 with NF-F12s in top as exhaust
2 Fractal case fans in front as intake
1 Fractal case fan in side as intake
#######
* She's not actually alive. Comatose, effectively, since I wasn't able to successfully boot Windows from USB. I ran into a shitload of problems last night trying to create a bootable USB stick on this current XP computer. I eventually managed to complete the .ISO install but was met with the message that (paraphrase) "The Windows 7 USB tool process is 100% complete. However, we weren't able to access Bootsect, so your stick won't actually be recognised as a bootable drive. You're welcome!"
A few Googles informed me that others had come across this and some found that it still booted just fine. Not me.
The BIOS don't like it none.I know there was another way of creating the bootable windows stick that involved command line prompts which supposedly circumnavigates the bootsect issue, so I'm gonna give that a try. If that fails, fuck it, I'm walking into town to buy an exorbitantly overpriced DVD drive.
So im going to be getting one of those korean s-ips monitors
i know it been asked a few times, but can someone tell me why the crossover is better than the catleap?
normally i would just get the crossover since most people say get that one, but catleap makes one in white, and i love me some white electronics. so crossover needs to be substantially better to make me get that.
so whats better about it?
i know it been asked a few times, but can someone tell me why the crossover is better than the catleap?
normally i would just get the crossover since most people say get that one, but catleap makes one in white, and i love me some white electronics. so crossover needs to be substantially better to make me get that.
so whats better about it?
What is the best HD 7950 to get?
The ones available
I have heard the HIS IceQ is very good, but I just want to make sure.
The ones available
I have heard the HIS IceQ is very good, but I just want to make sure.
legacyzero
Banned
PC GAF, my buddy is trying to pressure me into getting the Corsair liquid H60 for my new build, but GAF is telling me to get the Air cooled 212+.
I'm going for a 2500k, should I drop the extra money and go with the H60 instead?
I'm going for a 2500k, should I drop the extra money and go with the H60 instead?
Get the P edition of the Crossover, better firm stand and it can rotate. All the monitors really use the same panel and its just the cosmetics that's the difference. The back of the Crossover is also white and not made of plastic too. Check out Youtube videos to see the build quality your self.
For the same money if I had to decide between:-
1. 3570k + Air cooled 212+.
2. 2500k + H60.
I would go with the first choice.
specialguy
Banned
Just installed my crucial M4 128GB (after buying it some 4 months ago and sticking it on a shelf lol). Very nice having 88GB free right now on my OS drive, versus the 1-2GB I had left on my prior 40GB Intel SSD that I had to manage carefully.
My question is my Windows experience score for storage or whatever is only a 7.3. seems kind of low. I think it was like 6.9 with the Intel SSD though (which I always thought was low also) so at least an improvement.
Googling seems some people get a perfect 7.9 with Samsung 830 which shouldn't be faster than my drive. Most likely it's nothing but any comments?
Edit: Never mind, just ran a quick bench vs my 7200RPM mechanical data drive. yeah, I'm pretty happy with the improvement (Crucial M4 on the left)
My question is my Windows experience score for storage or whatever is only a 7.3. seems kind of low. I think it was like 6.9 with the Intel SSD though (which I always thought was low also) so at least an improvement.
Googling seems some people get a perfect 7.9 with Samsung 830 which shouldn't be faster than my drive. Most likely it's nothing but any comments?
Edit: Never mind, just ran a quick bench vs my 7200RPM mechanical data drive. yeah, I'm pretty happy with the improvement (Crucial M4 on the left)
so catleaps are plastic and crossovers are metal?
Guessing here, but might that have something to do with some users having i7 processors rather than i5s and such else (ie. the multi-threading thing being the source of that last 0.6 points of score)?
In new-computer news, I eventually (just, like, twenty minutes ago) managed to actually get a working bootable USB. Had to grab the bootsect.exe off of some scary download link and insert it manually. I couldn't use the command prompt method because XP's version of diskpart.exe doesn't recognise flash drives as manipulatable disks. In short, there seems to be a *very* specific method of making a bootable USB stick for W7-64bit if you're attempting to do it on XP-32bit.
Now I'm having fun with the new computer not playing nicely with my router, nor recognising my monitor's resolution and, instead, only offering 4:3 ratios! Fun times.
legacyzero
Banned
So is the 3570k a better performance to heat than the 2500k is??
What would you try if:
You'd just built a new PC
You booted to Windows 7's desktop
Your computer wasn't finding any network to connect to
Checking the network on another PC shows that the router isn't seeing the new PC either
??
- I have two leads from my router, one for this PC and one for the new PC. Both leads work on this PC, neither work on the newborn.
- I've updated my Motherboard BIOS to latest version (the network problem was there prior to this and it has persisted afterwards)
Any ideas?
You'd just built a new PC
You booted to Windows 7's desktop
Your computer wasn't finding any network to connect to
Checking the network on another PC shows that the router isn't seeing the new PC either
??
- I have two leads from my router, one for this PC and one for the new PC. Both leads work on this PC, neither work on the newborn.
- I've updated my Motherboard BIOS to latest version (the network problem was there prior to this and it has persisted afterwards)
Any ideas?
Just installed my crucial M4 128GB (after buying it some 4 months ago and sticking it on a shelf lol). Very nice having 88GB free right now on my OS drive, versus the 1-2GB I had left on my prior 40GB Intel SSD that I had to manage carefully.
My question is my Windows experience score for storage or whatever is only a 7.3. seems kind of low. I think it was like 6.9 with the Intel SSD though (which I always thought was low also) so at least an improvement.
Googling seems some people get a perfect 7.9 with Samsung 830 which shouldn't be faster than my drive. Most likely it's nothing but any comments?
Edit: Never mind, just ran a quick bench vs my 7200RPM mechanical data drive. yeah, I'm pretty happy with the improvement (Crucial M4 on the left)
Judging by your benchmarks, you've got it hooked up via SATA II (3Gb/s), so I'd say the people getting higher Windows experience scores have their drives connected with SATA III (6Gb/s). Do you have any SATA III ports on your motherboard?
What would you try if:
You'd just built a new PC
You booted to Windows 7's desktop
Your computer wasn't finding any network to connect to
Checking the network on another PC shows that the router isn't seeing the new PC either
??
- I have two leads from my router, one for this PC and one for the new PC. Both leads work on this PC, neither work on the newborn.
- I've updated my Motherboard BIOS to latest version (the network problem was there prior to this and it has persisted afterwards)
Any ideas?
Try installing the network drivers off the motherboard disc.
Upgraded to an i5 3570k from an Athlon II X4 and I am really impressed with the upgrade. I was definitely bottlenecked by my CPU before; this is great. I also took this opportunity to buy my first SSD, the Crucial m4 128GB, and I'm really impressed with that too. Windows starts so quickly, and MS Word starts instantly. It's like I'm living in the future.
I grabbed a CM Hyper 212 Evo cooler and installed it with the CPU, but I haven't tried overclocking yet. Looking forward to seeing what I can do. Hopefully I can finally use Dolphin. (._. )
I grabbed a CM Hyper 212 Evo cooler and installed it with the CPU, but I haven't tried overclocking yet. Looking forward to seeing what I can do. Hopefully I can finally use Dolphin. (._. )
Can that be done through a USB stick if I get the network drivers from the Asus site on this other PC? I'm poking around in Control Panel looking for where I'd update the driver *to* and I don't see anything that looks like a network device in Device Manager.
Could all this be due to me not having used any of the installation discs (since there's optical drive)? I can't imagine so since I know that building a PC without optical reading is a done thing.
You will slaughter Dolphin
specialguy
Banned
Scott Wasson who does intriguing stuff at Tech Report has a new CPU writeup up. In it he finds the Ivy Bridge Processors do better than the Sandy Bridge at his test (which measure things like 99th percentile frame time). Basically it seems regardless of FPS Ivy Bridge is better at maintaining smoothness.
Before I didnt care, after this I'd definitely take an Ivy Bridge now.
I checked and unsurprisingly it seems I only have Sata II (I have a pretty old Q6600 rig). Thanks for the tip thats probably why.
Yeah. Honestly at first I wasn't as blown away when I first switched to an SSD a year or two ago as I thought I would be. But for example, the other day I was playing with my rarely used laptop (with HDD) and I was like "why the F does this thing take forever and a day to shut down?!" Then I realized it was because I've become accustomed to SSD in my desktop.
Before I didnt care, after this I'd definitely take an Ivy Bridge now.
I checked and unsurprisingly it seems I only have Sata II (I have a pretty old Q6600 rig). Thanks for the tip thats probably why.
Yeah. Honestly at first I wasn't as blown away when I first switched to an SSD a year or two ago as I thought I would be. But for example, the other day I was playing with my rarely used laptop (with HDD) and I was like "why the F does this thing take forever and a day to shut down?!" Then I realized it was because I've become accustomed to SSD in my desktop.
Article: http://techreport.com/articles.x/23246
It's pretty damn minimal and almost falls in line with the 3-6% boost and 0.1Ghz bonus.
Either way it's the better chip to buy pretty much unless you get a used 2500K/2600K for cheap (Got a 2600K for $230 myself).
Either way a nice benchmark to have. Scott is a great guy.
Thanks, I think you linked this to me before, but I lost the link somewhere in this thread.
First, awesome cable management and build!
Download the chipset, LAN/NIC, and USB 3 drivers from ASUS. Install them on new machine. Run windows update. Check device manager if there is anything not installed. Get that driver from ASUS and install it.
Yeah, I want to write for them now. New goal!
How far do you want to OC? Either way, the Hydro coolers are an aesthetic choice. They are never worth it in terms of $
erformance. Hyper 212 is the same price and performs like an H100, Ame with the NZXT Havik.
legacyzero
Banned
do you think it's better to go with the 3750k or the 2500k performance and heat wise.How far do you want to OC? Either way, the Hydro coolers are an aesthetic choice. They are never worth it in terms of $
I dont plan to OC too much. 3.8-4 maybe?
Thanks! I had a lot of fun putting this together. She's causing nothing but ballache today though, heh.
A few months ago, before I started looking up how to build a PC, I'd have probably scoffed at the idea of 'a pretty looking PC'. Going through the process of reading up on stuff, picking your parts, popping them together, etc. though, and yeah, it alters you! Now I'm all stopping to scrutinise people's build photos and thinking, "heeeey there sexy mommaboard, you lookin' coooool." Figuratively, I mean. *ahem*
Just to clarify what you mean in your post:
You're saying to get all the separate drivers for chipset, LAN/NIC and USB 3.0 and transfer them across to the machine via USB. Then use windows update to do the actual work? So windows update will ask me to provide the drivers and then it will apply them itself without me telling it what they are?
Because again, I'm buggered if I can figure out where specifically these drivers are meant to actually go.
Oh, and k3yring, I think you were spot on with your suggestion. The troubleshooting link in the network section tells me that Windows did not detect a properly installed network adpter. If you have a network adapter, you will need to re-install the driver. (Then, ironically enough, it goes on to suggest that I go online to access get the driver, ha.) I assume that I do have a networkj adapter? That would be a device on the m/b right? But I assume that it's currently softwareless.
Head hurts!
My day with a PC.
3.8-4 is doable on the stock heatsink. You only need something better than the 212 if you want to run at 4.6-5.0 24/7.
Go with the 3570K.
*Edit
Nah, install them by double clicking on the exe's once you transferred them via USB. I say run windows update because it generally does a better job at downloading just what you *need*.
If there are devices still not recognized in device manager after update does its magic, you will need to manually download the remaining missing drivers from ASUS.
Go with the 3570K.
*Edit
Nah, install them by double clicking on the exe's once you transferred them via USB. I say run windows update because it generally does a better job at downloading just what you *need*.
If there are devices still not recognized in device manager after update does its magic, you will need to manually download the remaining missing drivers from ASUS.
RoaringHawk
Member
I think I'm in the market for my first SSD. Reading the OP and some comments, it's between these two for me:
Intel 330 Series 240GB
Crucial 256GB m4
Which is the better one in your opinion, I would value reliability more than speed. Are there better alternatives?
Intel 330 Series 240GB
Crucial 256GB m4
Which is the better one in your opinion, I would value reliability more than speed. Are there better alternatives?
I'm looking to buy my very first SSD. My current boot hard drive just died and I think this is a great time to upgrade to an SSD. I'm thinking of getting a 128gb in size. I've read a lot of good reviews on the Crucial M4 and the Samsung 830. So which one should I get for my first SSD? or are there any other recommendations?
Samsung 830 is well worth a look, on the 256GB models and above they're doing a cashback deal on it, at least here in the UK anyway.
Out of those two the Samsung would be my choice.
So I've decided that I pretty much can't deal with games that aren't 60 fps anymore, especially shooters.
I'm sure I'll be able to play Borderlands 2 at 60 fps on my laptop, but it'll be on lower settings. I'm more worried about stuff like GTA 5 and Planetside 2, so I've got a question for you guys. Who is the best prebuilt computer site? I know, I know, the main reason for this thread is to build your own, but I couldn't find a thread for my question, and I have my merits for not being able to build my own. I've got these real shaky hands when it comes to this stuff. Seriously, I can't even finish Arts and Crafts projects right, and I don't 'know' anyone who can build this kind of stuff.
A friend of mine bought theirs from ibuypower and seems to enjoy it, but I'm not sure if that's the best deal. I know NewEgg has their own prebuilt stuff. I'm looking for something that will last me through most of next gen and something that I can just connect with an HDMI cord to my tv because I'll still be doing my non-gaming stuff on my laptop
I'm sure I'll be able to play Borderlands 2 at 60 fps on my laptop, but it'll be on lower settings. I'm more worried about stuff like GTA 5 and Planetside 2, so I've got a question for you guys. Who is the best prebuilt computer site? I know, I know, the main reason for this thread is to build your own, but I couldn't find a thread for my question, and I have my merits for not being able to build my own. I've got these real shaky hands when it comes to this stuff. Seriously, I can't even finish Arts and Crafts projects right, and I don't 'know' anyone who can build this kind of stuff.
A friend of mine bought theirs from ibuypower and seems to enjoy it, but I'm not sure if that's the best deal. I know NewEgg has their own prebuilt stuff. I'm looking for something that will last me through most of next gen and something that I can just connect with an HDMI cord to my tv because I'll still be doing my non-gaming stuff on my laptop
Oh crap, I'd forgotten about that.
Thank you.Picked my 256GB 830 up from eBuyer just yesterday for £145. It mentioned £20 cashback on the product page so I guess I grabbed one for £125! Woot.
On the story of this PC I've been trying to build, she's now chugging along delightfully and I think, after our rocky start, we're going to be just fine.
Cheers to everyone who's answered my questions (there'll be more once I start dicking around with OCing, have no fear), not to mention thanks to anyone who's simply contributed to the thread. It's been a goldmine of information and opinions the past couple of months.
EDIT: In fact, since I'm about to set this thing up, here's a question that I bet hasn't been asked hundreds of times:
What are the 'official' best pieces of software these days? Across whatever range of tasks you feel like mentioning.
CCleaner still best for tidy-up utility?
The combination of MSE + MalWareBytes +, um, shit was it called.. Spybot?.. for security?
I think I should be using 7Zip rather than old faithful(ly irritating) WinRAR right?
On my current (old.. :O ) PC I use, uh, WinAmp, VLC, GIMP, Irfan. Any of these considered past their prime?
Any other recommendations before I get to clogging up this SSD with sub-par software?
OH.. yeah, the important one. Is there a common consensus on how best to manage an AMD card? Use CCC or are there better third-party options?
Last question. Is D3DOverrider or-whatever-it's-called still the best option for forcing VSync? I remember it being annoying simply because I originally had to access it through a single big boutique download of software, RivaTuner I think.
RoaringHawk
Member
Hmmm Samsung, heard nothing but bad things about their HDDs. So their SSD drivers are better?
cobragt4001
Banned
Need advice guys on my future plans for my current pc. Right I'm using a Rosewill CHALLENGER Black Gaming ATX Mid Tower with a 630w psu, gigabyte gtx 670 with a i5-3570k with stock heatsink. I'm going to upgrade my case to this Rosewill full tower http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16811147053
Reason that I'm doing this is I'm going to get another 670 before the end of the year and I want alot of space so here's my dilemma, I want to get a Crosair liquid cooler for my cpu but if I get that, that means the rear exhaust fan for the new case that I plan to get will be turned into a intake technically. The radiator for the liquid cooler of course goes on the rear fan port and the radiator's fan sucks in cool air from outside to be ran across the radiator so technically the fan is acting as a intake on the case as all of you already know. The full tower that I want to get comes with 4 fans; 1 230mm for the front, 1 230mm on the top, 1 140mm for the rear and a 230mm for the side which I'm assuming is for intake since it's directly in front of gpu. The case also comes with a bottom mount for a 5th fan as intake. I actually got an extra 140mm fan that I can use that bottom mount for.
My question is, should I use the side fan as an exhaust or intake seeing as I'm going to have the front fan, bottom fan, and even rear fan bringing in air? But if I use the side fan as an exhaust then the two gtx 670 wouldn't get direct air blown onto them unless the 140mm bottom mount fan sends air to the gpus. If I use the side fan as an intake then I will only have one exhaust fan, which is on the top and I would have a overly positive charged case and that's not good seeing as dust can collect easily. I'm open to any opinions or suggestions.
Also as a side note I am upgrading my psu to a modular 750w so I can do sli with the 670s.
Reason that I'm doing this is I'm going to get another 670 before the end of the year and I want alot of space so here's my dilemma, I want to get a Crosair liquid cooler for my cpu but if I get that, that means the rear exhaust fan for the new case that I plan to get will be turned into a intake technically. The radiator for the liquid cooler of course goes on the rear fan port and the radiator's fan sucks in cool air from outside to be ran across the radiator so technically the fan is acting as a intake on the case as all of you already know. The full tower that I want to get comes with 4 fans; 1 230mm for the front, 1 230mm on the top, 1 140mm for the rear and a 230mm for the side which I'm assuming is for intake since it's directly in front of gpu. The case also comes with a bottom mount for a 5th fan as intake. I actually got an extra 140mm fan that I can use that bottom mount for.
My question is, should I use the side fan as an exhaust or intake seeing as I'm going to have the front fan, bottom fan, and even rear fan bringing in air? But if I use the side fan as an exhaust then the two gtx 670 wouldn't get direct air blown onto them unless the 140mm bottom mount fan sends air to the gpus. If I use the side fan as an intake then I will only have one exhaust fan, which is on the top and I would have a overly positive charged case and that's not good seeing as dust can collect easily. I'm open to any opinions or suggestions.
Also as a side note I am upgrading my psu to a modular 750w so I can do sli with the 670s.
Odd. The Samsung F3s have been the recommended HDDs in this thread's OP build-guides for as long as I can remember. (Which is about three months.)
Yeah I always thought Samsung's HDD's were amongst the best, I've a few of them and they've been fine.
LiquidMetal14
hide your water-based mammals
Samsung F3 here. No issues at all since I got this almost 2 years ago.
Having the fan on a radiator set up as intake makes sense for the cooler air, but the vast majority of builds that I've looked over the past few months seem to favour having them (specifically the Corsair H-series closed loops at least) as exhaust. It might not be something you actually need to do? Hopefully someone with more knowledge will clarify whether there's notable differences between intake & exhaust, or a rather miniscule difference, with things like overall case air-flow being more impactful.
Also, and forgive me if I misinterpreted your description, but it seemed like you were suggesting having the intake pulling air across the radiator rather than pushing. Again, sorry if that's not what you meant, but - on the off-chance that I didn't mis-infer - with an intake set-up you'd still want the fan 'behind' the radiator pushing through (ie. with your head inside the case, you'd see the radiator innermost with the fan hidden behind). Obviously push+pull set ups negate (or rather, build on) that.
(Note: I'm new to the game and I don't really feel qualified to be giving out advice, so take that with several handfuls of caution salt.)
mmmm, this thread needs more of this. Sweet tasty computer gut porn.
1) Get a Fractal Arc Midi instead. Or R4.
2) How you orient the radiator depends entirely on the types of GPUs you have. If they exhaust out the back of your case, you don't want the radiator sucking that hot air in. If they are non-reference like the Twin Frozr or DCII, then you would want it as intake.
3) Positive pressure reduces dust collection, especially if the intake is through filters like on the Arc and R4.
Any chance of you being in the Pacific NW? Even if not, I can build you a PC and ship it to you for cheaper than any of the pre-built crap.
Depends on your power supply. Two 580s will perform better than a 680. If you don't have the PSU to support that (good 850W), then I'd actually suggest selling it and getting a 670, if you absolutely must upgrade. Otherwise, not *really* worth it either way.
RoaringHawk
Member
!
Weird. To be honest I never tried one myself, but all the ones that I know who got one told me to stay away from Samsung HDDs!
I've got a very good 750, think that's more than enough for these cards.
I could save some money but I know I'll waste it on other random stuff instead..lol
I have an 830 and it has been amazing so far.
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