You shouldn't have to adjust them, but they might put up a bit of resistance. Honestly, I quit bothering with I/O shields, for better or worse, but they shouldn't actually catch on anything.
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"I need a New PC!" 2012 Thread. Ivy, SSDs, and reading the OP. [Part 2]
- Thread starter Hazaro
- Start date
- Status
MiniBossman
Member
I found where it was catching, just bent that one a little, and it went in the rest of the way.
Next dumb question, the Hyper- 212 EVO wants thermal past on its heat pipes where it makes contact with the CPU. I shouldn't apply additional to the CPU, just the Hyper-212?
Next dumb question, the Hyper- 212 EVO wants thermal past on its heat pipes where it makes contact with the CPU. I shouldn't apply additional to the CPU, just the Hyper-212?
n64coder
Member
You mean that you don't install it anymore? I thought the purpose was to provide good grounding for the connectors?
There will always be something better coming up. When the 7870 was new the price was not what it is today because it was going against the Nvidia 570, don't know what the 8870 price will be, but it doesn't need to be as cheap as the 7870 is today.
Right now all the kepler cards are out and the prices will probably stay like this untill the next generation comes. If you want something different you could look at the strange PowerColor/VTX3D/Club3D 7870, they're basically slightly weaker 7950s with performance closer to the 7950 than the 7870. Regular 7870s have 1Ghz or higher clock rates while these "7890/7930" have lower clock rates. The PowerColor 7870 Myst has 925Mhz with 975Mhz boost.
Hope I didn't confuse you with that confusing 7890/7930 called 7870 "something"
mhayze
Member
At that price I recommend the Mionix Naos 3200 or a Razer Deathadder. I have an older G500, but I wouldn't recommend it as a gaming mouse over the Naos.
The shield should SNAP into place before you place the motherboard. If you feel some "springy" action, it has not snapped into place. Do that firmly, before placing mobo.
If you apply a decent amount to cover the cracks in between the heatsink and heatpipes at the center of the sink, then you do not need any additional compound. Be careful if you are using arctic silver, you don't want too apply too much and have it overflow the sides.
Doesn't sound like a lot - maybe just a GPU for now?
Yeah, probably, but they are a bit of a hassle and I haven't had any issues leaving it off. I'm not recommending it, better safe than sorry, and it's not like it's typically an inconvenience.
Irobot82
Member
The typical thing to do is to apply thermal paste to your CPU then attach the cooler to it.
That's what I did. And as much as I love the temps the hyper 212 is giving me, I can't help but hate it for the awful installation procedure
Baconsaurus Rex
Member
What is the difference between the low profile RAM and the RAM with the large fins?
EternalGamer
Banned
What is the difference between the low profile RAM and the RAM with the large fins?
Supposedly heat release but maybe the only real world advantage they provide is if you are desparate for a comb, you can use the RAM.
What is the difference between the low profile RAM and the RAM with the large fins?
I guess those are supposed to be cooling fins? Seems overkill for RAM. Low-profile, as the name implies, are designed to reduce the amount of space they take. Space is a premium for micro-cases and mini-MB. It can also help if you have an huge cooler.
SkyscraperFan
Neo Member
I finished my exams yesterday and just placed an order for my first build. I decided to spend the extra money to really go all out and purchased a modular gold certified psu as well as the gtx 670.
What I'm most worried about now is the setup of the computer once the components have been put together. I've never built a pc before, and so if something goes wrong I have no idea where to start troubleshooting. I'm probably going to be reading lots of guides until my parts arrive.
What I'm most worried about now is the setup of the computer once the components have been put together. I've never built a pc before, and so if something goes wrong I have no idea where to start troubleshooting. I'm probably going to be reading lots of guides until my parts arrive.
lostsupper
Banned
I bought the non-low profile ram in your picture, not realizing that the 212+ wouldn't clear it on my mini board.
The moral of this story is to read the OP more carefully. Also, if anyone wants 2 x 4GB of the high-profile version you can have it for $20 shipped. Just saying.
What is the difference between the low profile RAM and the RAM with the large fins?
One has stupid useless heat spreaders, the other doesn't.
Go low profile.
DeathGlobe
Member
Sadly my gigabyte 560ti is artifacting and crashing with a display kernel fail is it good investment to buy that msi 660ti for 269? And if possible do any tech guys on here know what could be causing my issue? I've updated also uninstalled all drivers and monitored the temperature and I cant pin point the problem.
Irobot82
Member
I recommend a pre-built CPU water cooler, either Corsairs or Thermaltake. I have a Thermaltake one. Infinity more easy to install than any heat sink bracket I've ever installed. Plus you can get them on sale (which is often) for about $50. It will also give your case better overall airflow b/c there isn't a tower in the way.
Baconsaurus Rex
Member
You'd think the low-profile RAM would be cheaper, but nope. It's only 50 cents but still, a little odd.
If it's available where you are the Samsung 30nm 1.35v RAM is the stuff to get, otherwise that LP Corsair stuff is fine.
Baconsaurus Rex
Member
Not available over here unfortunately. Realistically speaking, how much of a performance gain or whatever else does the Samsung have over the Corsair Vengeance RAM?
jackpottest
Member
Hi experts.
I'm building a new PC for my wife for Christmas. She's always had to put up with a slow, chugging computer, and I want to build her something decent. She deserves it after putting up with what she has for so long.
She won't be playing games beyond simple stuff like The Sims / Peggle / Bejeweled etc.
Her most important tasks are general internet browsing, watching videos, talking to her family via skype, and photo storage. So I can get away with a somewhat cheap build. I still just want it to never slow down on her.
So I've come up with an AMD and an Intel build and would love any opinions on which is better, or any part changes (cheaper or better if necessary) for either of them etc:
AMD:
Motherboard: ASUS M5A97-EVO-R2
CPU: AMD FX 6300
RAM: 4gb Corsair
PSU: Corsair 500W
GPU: 8800 GTS (Old Part)
HDD 1: 64gb Sata (Old Part)
HDD 2: 500GB WD BLUE (Old Part)
HDD 3: 500GB WD BLUE (Old Part)
Intel:
Motherboard: ASUS P8Z77-V LX
CPU: Intel i3-3220
RAM: 4gb Corsair
PSU: Corsair 500W
GPU: 8800 GTS (Old Part)
HDD 1: 64gb Sata (Old Part)
HDD 2: 500GB WD BLUE (Old Part)
HDD 3: 500GB WD BLUE (Old Part)
If they're just pretty much the same that's nice to know too, then I can just get the cheaper build of the two.
I'm building a new PC for my wife for Christmas. She's always had to put up with a slow, chugging computer, and I want to build her something decent. She deserves it after putting up with what she has for so long.
She won't be playing games beyond simple stuff like The Sims / Peggle / Bejeweled etc.
Her most important tasks are general internet browsing, watching videos, talking to her family via skype, and photo storage. So I can get away with a somewhat cheap build. I still just want it to never slow down on her.
So I've come up with an AMD and an Intel build and would love any opinions on which is better, or any part changes (cheaper or better if necessary) for either of them etc:
AMD:
Motherboard: ASUS M5A97-EVO-R2
CPU: AMD FX 6300
RAM: 4gb Corsair
PSU: Corsair 500W
GPU: 8800 GTS (Old Part)
HDD 1: 64gb Sata (Old Part)
HDD 2: 500GB WD BLUE (Old Part)
HDD 3: 500GB WD BLUE (Old Part)
Intel:
Motherboard: ASUS P8Z77-V LX
CPU: Intel i3-3220
RAM: 4gb Corsair
PSU: Corsair 500W
GPU: 8800 GTS (Old Part)
HDD 1: 64gb Sata (Old Part)
HDD 2: 500GB WD BLUE (Old Part)
HDD 3: 500GB WD BLUE (Old Part)
If they're just pretty much the same that's nice to know too, then I can just get the cheaper build of the two.
Will that do? Will I see the difference between that and my MBPr?
I was thinking of this suggested earlier by Hazaro if I can pick everything up.
Got a question. I built my little brother a computer last xmas. He reformatted it a few weeks ago and it stops recognizing the kb/m after being on for a bit. I'm guessing the best thing to do is reformat it again and make sure he installed the motherboard drivers correct. I can't be on to check long enough to check the drivers before it stops recognizing them. Ideas?
Have you tried another keyboard and mouse? Different USB ports? I know it sounds basic but it's possible that you'd be able to get them working long enough to update some drivers.
MiniBossman
Member
So i squeezed too much thermal paste on the heatsink, and it oozed onto the green part of the CPU...
So how should i clean this up and start over?
So how should i clean this up and start over?
Faster RAM will give you a 0.5%-3% boost in various things.
Intel for sure. VP450 for PSU. Get 8GB of RAM.
One takes up more room.What is the difference between the low profile RAM and the RAM with the large fins?
Go with the OP build and a $100-$120 monitor
Overclocks like a demon.
Go Intel. I'd drop it down to a Pentium too like the G850, she won't make use of an i3 by the looks of it. I'd avoid AMD's FX line-up, Intel beats them hands down.
An alternative though could be something like an AMD A10 5800K which would be decent for gaming (although it won't beat your 8800 GTS). You could then drop the 8800 GTS as the APU has it's own graphics and get a cheaper PSU, say a 400w or something.
What Corsair PSU is that you're looking at?
I'd change your PSU to this http://www.novatech.co.uk/products/components/powersupplies/p1-550s-xxb9.html
DeathGlobe
Member
My card shouldn't be showing any spikes like this from just browsing the web should it?
Poweriso is what i use, just as good if not better than daemon tools.
jackpottest
Member
Done. Thank you Hazaro, she's going to be very happy.
Will definitely go Intel, I'll have a look at the G850 as well. As for the PSU, was looking at the Corsair CX-500v3, but I'll go with the VP450 Haz recommended above, saving me around $50.
Thanks guys!
Yeah either the VP or this XFX Core 450w which is a Seasonic inside http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16817207018
Both will serve you well and should see a good saving from your original choice.
What is the difference between the low profile RAM and the RAM with the large fins?
I've got the white Vengeance LP and it's great. I used it because I have a huge Rad in my case and wanted to ensure there was enough room. Plus massive fins look fucking hideous and the LP is much classier.
Guys... Guys.... GUYS!
I want to buy a sound card for my PC, after having my Asus Maximus Gene for 8 months now I have come to an conclusion. I game a lot with my Seinheiser headset and the Gene V sound card is great, but it doesn't offer any Dolby Headphone. Every game sounds flat and boring without it.
I had a Xonar D1 which is the best sound card I have ever owned and it has been working excellent for 2 years until I upgraded. I sold it off and honestly thought that the one on the Asus Gene V motherboard would be a fine replacement but it isn't.
So I wonde if I should go and buy the Xonar DX which is the same card as D1 or go with the cheaper DGX? I keep hearing that DX is superior while others are saying that DGX is as good :/
I want to buy a sound card for my PC, after having my Asus Maximus Gene for 8 months now I have come to an conclusion. I game a lot with my Seinheiser headset and the Gene V sound card is great, but it doesn't offer any Dolby Headphone. Every game sounds flat and boring without it.
I had a Xonar D1 which is the best sound card I have ever owned and it has been working excellent for 2 years until I upgraded. I sold it off and honestly thought that the one on the Asus Gene V motherboard would be a fine replacement but it isn't.
So I wonde if I should go and buy the Xonar DX which is the same card as D1 or go with the cheaper DGX? I keep hearing that DX is superior while others are saying that DGX is as good :/
I'm always hesitant to drop down to a dual core. I know HT doesn't add that much, but it still rubs me the wrong way.
PSU is great if you can fit it in budget.
The small spikes to 20%? Sure. 100%? Nope.
My card shouldn't be showing any spikes like this from just browsing the web should it?
I've dabbled, but even with a 3D monitor I don't care. 120Hz is so much better and 3D is way gimmicky for me.
Don't use speedfan for CPU temps.NoRéN;45464405 said:Got my build running again. Bad motherboard. Anyway, CPU still running too hot. Help!
Check RealTemp / CoreTemp. If it is still too high reseat your heatsink and make sure that the plastic is off and there is thermal paste and all 4 mounts are secure.
I've heard there are very minimal differences between the two. I'd buy the $30 one and see if it's good enough.
n64coder
Member
I never heard of RAM getting hot. Has anyone? I would be more concerned with the cooling for the GPU or the CPU. If you're building an HTPC in a low profile case, you definitely want the low profile ram or you might have an issue with the optical drive interfering with the top of the ram or the hard drive depending on what's above the motherboard.
I would look in device manager and see if there's any unrecognized device icons (yellow triangles with an exclamation points) but yeah, I suspect the motherboard drivers need to be installed.
DeathGlobe
Member
So any idea what could cause it? My mobo has two pci slots and both still had artifacts randomly show up when browsing sites and idle. I guess if it was the psu then it wouldnt matter which slot I had it in ?
Sanic
Member
Will the motherboard below support 16GB of ram (8x2)? It mentions 8 but i'm unsure if that's referring specifically to ddr2 or not.
http://www.amazon.com/dp/B0083B6HEQ/?tag=neogaf0e-20
http://www.amazon.com/dp/B0083B6HEQ/?tag=neogaf0e-20
I read it as 2x DDR2/3 up to 8GB. So I think it's 8GB and not more
Thanks! a DGX it is!
Irobot82
Member
That's one strange board. If I am reading is correctly, it has 2 DDR3 DIMS and 2 DDR2 DIMS? Why on earth??? I'd wager to say it does only support 8GB max.
Sanic
Member
Yeah, same. Found another for a similar price that supports up to 16, so i'll grab that one.
Felix Lighter
Member
I finally found a solution for the horrible vsync issues I've always had with AC Brotherhood. The new preview version of RadeonPro includes a dynamic vsync option and it solved the problem. Nothing else worked, in game vsync, D3Doverrider forced triple buffered vysnc, old RadeonPro triple buffered vysnc, it all resulted in a crazy stuttery mess even though fps monitors reported 60 fps, locked. Turning it off obviously resulted in screen tearing, which I can't stand and I eventually just gave up on the game. I feel like I was the only one experiencing this but now it's gone and I can try and catch back up on that franchise.
I was going to wait for the official full release of the new RadeonPro but I gave it a shot today and there are a ton of new features and options.
I was going to wait for the official full release of the new RadeonPro but I gave it a shot today and there are a ton of new features and options.
...
I don't know why you guys recommended the Intel over the AMD, if those were his two choices.
If you had suggested a different Intel processor, I would have agreed... but that...
http://www.anandtech.com/bench/Product/699?vs=677
One thing the comparison doesn't mention though is power draw. The 6300 will definitely draw more power than the 3220, if electricity is a concern.
Looks like itNoRéN;45466036 said:
Because Intel has an upgrade path and it's far far better for gaming. The disparity lost between being a touch slower on 3D/video encoding is easily worth it.
http://www.tomshardware.com/reviews/gaming-fx-pentium-apu-benchmark,3120-10.html
Even with the opportunity for a large OC an FX CPU will be drawing over 3x the power just to match single threaded performance and still have no upgrade path later on.
Soodanim
Gold Member
Would after Xmas sales be a good time to start buying parts for a build (UK)?
I want a build that can do 1080p60 with some of the usual AA stuff, Dolphin/PCSX2, and come in at around £700ish. It seems like it'll have to be something along the lines of the "Great" level build in the Falcon guide.
PCPartPicker part list
CPU: AMD FX-6300 3.5GHz 6-Core Processor (£99.54 @ Aria PC)
CPU Cooler: Cooler Master Hyper 212 EVO 82.9 CFM Sleeve Bearing CPU Cooler (£26.65 @ Scan.co.uk)
Motherboard: Gigabyte GA-990XA-UD3 ATX AM3+ Motherboard (£81.38 @ Dabs)
Storage: Western Digital Caviar Black 1TB 3.5" 7200RPM Internal Hard Drive (£86.20 @ Amazon UK)
Video Card: Asus GeForce GTX 660 2GB Video Card (£189.98 @ Dabs)
Case: Fractal Design Define R4 (Black Pearl) ATX Mid Tower Case (£89.29 @ Scan.co.uk)
Power Supply: SeaSonic S12II 520W 80 PLUS Bronze Certified ATX12V / EPS12V Power Supply (£67.66 @ Amazon UK)
Optical Drive: Lite-On iHAS124-04 DVD/CD Writer (£12.92 @ Scan.co.uk)
Operating System: Microsoft Windows 7 Home Premium SP1 (OEM) (64-bit) (£65.99 @ Aria PC) I will probably get 8 instead, but it doesn't seem to be listed on PCPP
Total: £719.61
•Is the R4 case worth the money for the noise dampening?
•Is the 660 overkill for this build? It's by far the most expensive component.
•Are there any "Don't get X, get Y instead" parts in the list?
•~£750 is kind of my upper limit. £800 seems too much, and making some changes to bring a 3570K into the mix makes it a £850 build.
Edit:
Just seen the above. So an i3 is the better choice for OC and power draw. They're definitely points I'm taking into consideration.
I want a build that can do 1080p60 with some of the usual AA stuff, Dolphin/PCSX2, and come in at around £700ish. It seems like it'll have to be something along the lines of the "Great" level build in the Falcon guide.
PCPartPicker part list
CPU: AMD FX-6300 3.5GHz 6-Core Processor (£99.54 @ Aria PC)
CPU Cooler: Cooler Master Hyper 212 EVO 82.9 CFM Sleeve Bearing CPU Cooler (£26.65 @ Scan.co.uk)
Motherboard: Gigabyte GA-990XA-UD3 ATX AM3+ Motherboard (£81.38 @ Dabs)
Storage: Western Digital Caviar Black 1TB 3.5" 7200RPM Internal Hard Drive (£86.20 @ Amazon UK)
Video Card: Asus GeForce GTX 660 2GB Video Card (£189.98 @ Dabs)
Case: Fractal Design Define R4 (Black Pearl) ATX Mid Tower Case (£89.29 @ Scan.co.uk)
Power Supply: SeaSonic S12II 520W 80 PLUS Bronze Certified ATX12V / EPS12V Power Supply (£67.66 @ Amazon UK)
Optical Drive: Lite-On iHAS124-04 DVD/CD Writer (£12.92 @ Scan.co.uk)
Operating System: Microsoft Windows 7 Home Premium SP1 (OEM) (64-bit) (£65.99 @ Aria PC) I will probably get 8 instead, but it doesn't seem to be listed on PCPP
Total: £719.61
•Is the R4 case worth the money for the noise dampening?
•Is the 660 overkill for this build? It's by far the most expensive component.
•Are there any "Don't get X, get Y instead" parts in the list?
•~£750 is kind of my upper limit. £800 seems too much, and making some changes to bring a 3570K into the mix makes it a £850 build.
Edit:
Just seen the above. So an i3 is the better choice for OC and power draw. They're definitely points I'm taking into consideration.
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