The i3 cannot be overclocked, but its single threaded performance (important for CPU heavy games and emulators) is still much better than AMD FX CPUs. It's expensive, but an overclocked i5 3570k with an intel Z77 mobo is in 90% of all games just as good or better than an i7 for 1000$.
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"I need a New PC!" 2012 Thread. Ivy, SSDs, and reading the OP. [Part 2]
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The i3 cannot be overclocked, but its single threaded performance (important for CPU heavy games and emulators) is still much better than AMD FX CPUs. It's expensive, but an overclocked i5 3570k with an intel Z77 mobo is in 90% of all games just as good or better than an i7 for 1000$.
MiniBossman
Member
So cleaned up the thermal paste, and reapplied. Posted on 1st boot (second power button press, forgot to flip the PSU switch)
Running memtest now.
Then i will start adding components.
Running memtest now.
Then i will start adding components.
Change your PSU to this, it's also a Seasonic http://www.novatech.co.uk/products/components/powersupplies/p1-550s-xxb9.html
I'd also work to get a Z77 mobo and an i5 3570K, when overclocked it'll do a great job for emulation.
I'd change the HDD to this to save yet more money http://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B002MQC0P8/
I'd also change the 660 to an AMD alternative like the 7950 if you can stretch to it, the 7870 if you can't and fancy saving a tenner or so, or the 7850 if you want to save a load of cash.
http://www.novatech.co.uk/products/...hicscards/amdhd7950series/gv-r795wf3-3gd.html
http://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B0091MFBZC/
https://www.overclockers.co.uk/showproduct.php?prodid=GX-185-MS
http://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B007MUJL2E/
https://www.overclockers.co.uk/showproduct.php?prodid=GX-154-MS
http://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B008HV63NM/
mhayze
Member
The correct answer is always go by specs, compatibility and price, not looks. Even within the same "family" and heatsink, companies sell a few variants, so pay very careful attention to the specs / model. Read reviews of the exact mdoel you buy on newegg and hardware sites (post in a thread dedicated to the exact motherboard you buy) if you're not sure. Don't discount compatibility issues, especially if you're going to overclock, although DDR3 seems to be the most issue-free memory standard to date. The ONLY possible consideration with overblown fins is whether your CPU heatsink will clear the fins or not. Believe it or not those don't look too bad. I had a Corair kit in the past that blocked my HSF and had to be returned, despite the good price / specs combo.What is the difference between the low profile RAM and the RAM with the large fins?
Virtual Clone Drive - completely hassle free on dozens of PCs / Servers.
R4 is a nice case. If it's just about dampening, you could also go for an Antec, but I like your case choice. I've never regretting buying a nicer case.
I was actually going to recommend looking for a 660ti if you find a good deal. If you want 1080p60 with all the goodies turned on, it's definitely not overkill.
you're missing the ram. Go for i3. If your budget permits go for 3570k
660 isnt so great compared to ati equivalent one.
try to get a modular power supply if possible
edit: putted some parts quickly. It includes ram and it's a little bit higher than your list
http://pcpartpicker.com/uk/p/sLHK
edit: if you can, go for ssd + hdd combo
KungFucius
King Snowflake
I don't think think the GPU is overkill at all. You most likely want it to be usable for a long time. Maybe consider the Ti version if you can downspec other things. I have seen that case and it is pretty nice looking, but you can always get a cheaper one if you don't care about aesthetics. If you are really concerned about noise while gaming, no amount of damping is going to help you. You will have to go to water cooling on the CPU and GPU with quiet fans. I use an i5 unit as a gaming/htpc and I can make it relatively quite during the HTPC side, but the GTX 670 fan, and the fans on my last 3 GPUs always make some noise. Their are fan inlets all over this case, so damping seems like a crock of shit. The noise can be heard through these holes. Another option is to find really long HDMI and USB cables and bury the machine in a closet or another room. I personally don't mind white noise.
I just bought windows 8 today for 15 bucks. I filled out the thing online for the promo code and put down other PC and model number = NA and said I bought it in September. All you need to do is install Win7 without activating and go to the windows 8 upgrade page. You can download the windows7 trial legally. MS doesn't care as long as they sell some copies. There are links for all regions so the UK probably has a similar deal. The non-promo deal is 40 USD.
Also I cannot stress this enough, Please get a SATA3, 6 Gb/s SSD for the OS. Even if you can only get a 64GB one. The improvement in responsiveness and boot time is well worth it. http://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B007BBQPBO/
I have the 128GB model on a laptop and a desktop.
Gameplay wise: No, it doesn't. The disparity is very, very small between the two at higher res.
http://www.tomshardware.com/reviews/fx-4170-core-i3-3220-benchmarks,3314-8.html
Mind you, this is between a fx-4170 and the i3 3220.
If we were to compare a 6300 with the i3, it would look something more similar to this:
http://www.hardwarecanucks.com/foru...15-amd-vishera-fx-6300-fx-4300-review-18.html
"The FX-6300 is the current darling of AMD’s Vishera lineup since it retains a good portion of the FX-8350’s multi threaded performance while allowing purchasers to save over $60. Due to a significantly lower Base Clock, there is still a good amount of daylight between this six-thread variant and more expensive octo-core models so the FX-8350 certainly won’t lose any market share. Intel on the other hand does have something to worry about since the FX-6300 demolishes the similarly priced i3 3225 / 3220 in every test except our gaming benchmarks. Granted, the 32nm architecture used in the FX-6300 isn’t particularly efficient when compared against Intel’s 22nm technology but from a value standpoint, AMD is light years ahead. "
Since his wife would not be caring much about hardcore gaming, the fx would better suit her needs.
Also, although the i3 currently has a better upgrade path, the fx serves better in the interm because I doubt he will take advantage of the upgrade path anytime in the next 5 years if the fx proves snappy enough for him/his wife.
In the end, I believe that the fx processor is the better bang for the buck if he just wanted to do a cheap upgrade for the next few years.
(Even the fx-4300 matches the i3 3220, according to anandtech, also even better in diablo and skyrim!)
(One more edit: If he lives near a microcenter and can take advantage of an amazing sale for an i5, that would be even better.)
No need for a third party cooler, Intel one will more than suffice for an i3. Arguably could drop the Z77 mobo too as well as changing the PSU to the XFX 550w, and use the spare cash on a better GPU and an SSD if possible.
Also, HDD I'd change to a Samsung F3 saving another £30 or so.
ColonelColon
Member
I want to run an HDMI cable from my PC, beneath the floor, and back up into my living room where it will be plugged into the TV. In total, the cable would need to span at least 30 feet. I've read that cables longer than 25 feet might suffer from signal degradation, so I'm conflicted about which cable I should buy. Would this cable suffice for Stereo 3D/1080P (http://www.amazon.com/dp/B004JKH4FQ/?tag=neogaf0e-20), or should I spend another $30 on Monoprice's Redmere HDMI cables?
For what he is buying I would 100% recommend the Intel because of the upgrade path. There is nothing to upgrade an FX chip to that is worthwhile where power is generally needed. Lower load is a bonus, but not that big a deal since it will almost never be really loaded.
Depending on how heavily games favors 1 or 2 fast threads the disparity can get larger. RTS and AI and minimum frames are generally better on a faster CPU (See this TR article where Skyrim is worse for the FX CPUs and Tom's linked before). Some titles take advantage of quad cores and the AMD will be faster.
Another great example of how average FPS does not tell the story is this:
In most cases both CPUs provide above 60FPS minimum frames and are adequate for most people playing most games. I feel that for normal use any recent CPU is fine. Might as well get a solid i3 that you can upgrade to an i5 down the line if need be and have it use less power along the way.
Infinite Justice
Member
this product has gotten a few mentions in this thread as a great alternative to canned air
http://www.amazon.com/dp/B001J4ZOAW/?tag=neogaf0e-20
Alright guys, building my first PC. Let me know what you guys think.
Thermaltake V3 Black Edition Mid Tower Case - ATX, Micro ATX, 120mm LED Fan, 4x 5.25 Bays, 5x 3.5 Bays @ 29.97
http://www.tigerdirect.ca/applications/SearchTools/item-details.asp?EdpNo=5520044&Sku=T925-3018
MSI Radeon HD 7750 2GB GDDR3 Video Card @ 84.97
http://www.tigerdirect.ca/applications/SearchTools/item-details.asp?EdpNo=7486217&CatId=7387
Toshiba 1TB Hard Drive - 1TB, 7200 RPM, SATA, 3.5" @59.97
http://www.tigerdirect.ca/applications/SearchTools/item-details.asp?EdpNo=3303660&CatId=2459
Corsair Enthusiast Series TX650 V2 Power Supply - 650 Watts, ATX, 140mm Fan, 80 Plus Bronze, SLI Ready, Active PFC @ 104.99
http://www.tigerdirect.ca/applications/SearchTools/item-details.asp?EdpNo=7195036&CatId=1483
Kingston HyperX 8GB Desktop Memory Kit - DDR3, (2 x 4GB), PC3-12800, 1600MHz, CL9, Intel XMP Ready @ 34.97
http://www.tigerdirect.ca/applications/SearchTools/item-details.asp?EdpNo=7104116&csid=_61
MSI Z77A-G41 Intel 7 Series Z77 Motherboard - ATX, LGA 1155, Intel Z77 Chipset, 2133(OC) DDR3, SATA 6 Gb/s, RAID, 8-CH Audio, Gigabit LAN, USB 3.0, Crossfire Ready @ 74.97
http://www.tigerdirect.ca/applications/SearchTools/item-details.asp?EdpNo=3431743&CatId=6976
Intel Core i5-3570K @ 214.97
http://www.tigerdirect.ca/applications/SearchTools/item-details.asp?EdpNo=2373004&CatId=1969
Total~ $605 (not including taxes or shipping). A lot of these prices are due to sales and involve rebates. Let me know!
Thermaltake V3 Black Edition Mid Tower Case - ATX, Micro ATX, 120mm LED Fan, 4x 5.25 Bays, 5x 3.5 Bays @ 29.97
http://www.tigerdirect.ca/applications/SearchTools/item-details.asp?EdpNo=5520044&Sku=T925-3018
MSI Radeon HD 7750 2GB GDDR3 Video Card @ 84.97
http://www.tigerdirect.ca/applications/SearchTools/item-details.asp?EdpNo=7486217&CatId=7387
Toshiba 1TB Hard Drive - 1TB, 7200 RPM, SATA, 3.5" @59.97
http://www.tigerdirect.ca/applications/SearchTools/item-details.asp?EdpNo=3303660&CatId=2459
Corsair Enthusiast Series TX650 V2 Power Supply - 650 Watts, ATX, 140mm Fan, 80 Plus Bronze, SLI Ready, Active PFC @ 104.99
http://www.tigerdirect.ca/applications/SearchTools/item-details.asp?EdpNo=7195036&CatId=1483
Kingston HyperX 8GB Desktop Memory Kit - DDR3, (2 x 4GB), PC3-12800, 1600MHz, CL9, Intel XMP Ready @ 34.97
http://www.tigerdirect.ca/applications/SearchTools/item-details.asp?EdpNo=7104116&csid=_61
MSI Z77A-G41 Intel 7 Series Z77 Motherboard - ATX, LGA 1155, Intel Z77 Chipset, 2133(OC) DDR3, SATA 6 Gb/s, RAID, 8-CH Audio, Gigabit LAN, USB 3.0, Crossfire Ready @ 74.97
http://www.tigerdirect.ca/applications/SearchTools/item-details.asp?EdpNo=3431743&CatId=6976
Intel Core i5-3570K @ 214.97
http://www.tigerdirect.ca/applications/SearchTools/item-details.asp?EdpNo=2373004&CatId=1969
Total~ $605 (not including taxes or shipping). A lot of these prices are due to sales and involve rebates. Let me know!
I'd agree with you, if it was for a gamer.
However, if it was for a casual user whose only plan is to upgrade once, I would advise the 6300 against the 3220.
So, it boils down to: Is he going to upgrade the computer again? Or not?
Either way though, both processors should serve fairly well while one has immediate advantages, and the other a better upgrade path (and power savings).
Thank you so much!
Big thanks to everyone that helps to maintains this thread. Feels so damn good to be posting from a PC that I built myself. Couldn't have done it without you all.
Drop your PSU to this http://www.tigerdirect.ca/applications/SearchTools/item-details.asp?EdpNo=176635 and use the money saved to improve your GPU.
If you can free up some money, at worst get a 7770 but ideally you'd want to get a 7850 which is probably the best bang for buck card of the lower mid-range.
Fill out the list in the OP for what you are using it for. I'm sure you want a better GPU in there. I'm also not sure on the Toshiba drives yet. They just released a week or two ago and I haven't seen much about them. Maybe a WD Blue instead?
Also if possible buy your parts from NCIX instead. TigerDirect has bad US support, can't imagine what their CA support is like.
Along the other two's advice, I'd also say use NCIX and price match where available (aka, use a price comparison shopper and find the cheapest prices).
Like for example, the PSU: http://www.directcanada.com/product...SU-650TXV / CP-9020038-NA&manufacture=CORSAIR $88.19 - More than $15!
nah memory express is the way to go in canada. Though their shipping will be a little slow at this time of the year. However they are generally fast
Actually, their price match isn't bad either.. So, yeah. Go with them.
http://www.memoryexpress.com/Policies/PriceProtection.cm.aspx
chickdigger802
Banned
I currently have 3 monitors around the place. I currently have a gtx 460 which supports up to 2.
Is there a way to get the 3rd one hooked up without me getting a new card?
Is there a way to get the 3rd one hooked up without me getting a new card?
does your motherboard have a video output ?
Will the 2600k + p67 overclocking guide in the OP be applicable to overclocking a 2500k + z77, or should I find a guide more specifically suited to my cpu/mobo?
that's fine, the z77 doesn't differ from p67 with regards to overclock options
the guide is fine for all Sandy Bridge CPUs , and probably for Ivy Bridge as well as long as you keep in mind the voltage (and expected clock speeds) should be lower for those
DeathGlobe
Member
So can anyone help me out on the past few of my post in this thread
Alright so my brother's computer has been more wonky than I thought. It's locking up and sending out a loud buzz through the speakers along with the USB's randomly stop working. Is there anyway to test if it's the motherboard? i'm going to back some stuff up and do a reformat and see if it helps at all.
I guess my MOBO had some sort of auto-overclock feature in the BIOS that I inadvertently enabled. Is it alright to just leave it like that, or should I go in and manually adjust the values/settings with the help of a guide? It hasn't crashed in the 2 weeks since I did that, so I guess it's stable. The only thing that concerns me is that the BLCK/PEG Frequency was changed to 102, rather than just increasing the ratio like the Clunk guide. It's at 4.284 MHz, 1.168v. Should a run Prime95 to test the stability just in case?
edit*
It's called ASUS Optimal Mode by the way
It seems like the voltage is more like 1.32v when Prime95 is running,
edit*
It's called ASUS Optimal Mode by the way
It seems like the voltage is more like 1.32v when Prime95 is running,
Ugh I reformatted the system. Soon as I got on IE and was typing in the address car it froze. Mobo issue I guess. What should I get for a sandybridge processor?
To note, I removed the graphics card(to onboard) and wireless pci card. Sometimes when it's booting the bios graphics flash green/purple. Also when I was installing windows I saw a weird graphical line in the middle of the screen that looked all corrupted(green/purplish). Did a memtest with no errors just in case. Not sure what I can do to test the motherboard other than getting a new one for him. Right now I'm just leaving it on the desktop to see if it locks up. Might try installing a linux distro for kicks as well.
EDIT: Now I'm having doubts on the motherboard. I just read that the wireless adapter he's using has caused freezing and I think everytime its been freezing is when hes been on youtube or a windows update has occured. I left it on the desktop for 10 minutes and it was fine.
Fellow Gaffers,
Just finished my HTPC build. And I am lovin every second of it. Everything turned out really well and i am so happy i upgraded to a SSD and Windows 8. So far everything is running really smooth. Havent really stressed the system yet but i am getting ready for a Far Cry Marathon tonight.
Just wanted to let everyone know that this is an awesome thread and how Much i appreciate everyone's time and post.
Thanks
Just finished my HTPC build. And I am lovin every second of it. Everything turned out really well and i am so happy i upgraded to a SSD and Windows 8. So far everything is running really smooth. Havent really stressed the system yet but i am getting ready for a Far Cry Marathon tonight.
Just wanted to let everyone know that this is an awesome thread and how Much i appreciate everyone's time and post.
Thanks
AScotAbroad
Member
Hi Gaf,
Finally got my new build working without any further problems (damn PSU), so I'm ready to get the last few accessories to complete the comfy couch gaming experience!
My PC desk and TV are actually in the same room (opposite ends), so I just want to run a long HDMI cable from the tower and follow the walls round the room to the TV set. I reckon a 50ft (15m) should do the trick, but I was wondering if that's getting close to where it might lose the signal? If so I could move my desk and cut it down to more like 10m, but I'd rather leave the layout of the room the way it is if possible. Any recommendations for websites to order such an HDMI cable? I'm in Canada.
Gonna grab one of those Chinese knock-off 360 wireless receivers (I hear they work ok) and I'll be good to go!
Finally got my new build working without any further problems (damn PSU), so I'm ready to get the last few accessories to complete the comfy couch gaming experience!
My PC desk and TV are actually in the same room (opposite ends), so I just want to run a long HDMI cable from the tower and follow the walls round the room to the TV set. I reckon a 50ft (15m) should do the trick, but I was wondering if that's getting close to where it might lose the signal? If so I could move my desk and cut it down to more like 10m, but I'd rather leave the layout of the room the way it is if possible. Any recommendations for websites to order such an HDMI cable? I'm in Canada.
Gonna grab one of those Chinese knock-off 360 wireless receivers (I hear they work ok) and I'll be good to go!
AScotAbroad
Member
Any reason why Monoprice would be charging $70 for one (http://www.monoprice.com/products/p...=10240&cs_id=1025503&p_id=9432&seq=1&format=2) when I can find them on eBay for half that (http://www.ebay.ca/itm/50ft-HDMI-1-...ers&hash=item20bc1efa00&_uhb=1#ht_1764wt_1397)?
Dodgy cheap off-brand cables or something?
EDIT: just noticed Monoprice do have some cheaper at that length (http://www.monoprice.com/products/p...=10240&cs_id=1024005&p_id=2110&seq=1&format=2)
Zombie James
Banned
Anyone have any experience with thin Redmere-based HDMI cables? I'm thinking of hooking up my PC to my TV, too, but I'm worried about the stiffness and weight of standard cables.
One thing that i always do when i get some new hardware and i have a question on it is go to youtube and type in the mobo name/model and search Youtube for example.. Asus Z77 XXX overclocking guide ..something like that..search for it..you will be surprised by the amount of fella's out there that take the time to put together a OC tutorial on OC'n mobo's,etc
Yeah..it'll show the actual price of the ram in your newegg's cart but near the bottom you will see the discount of the cost of that ram near the area where it displays the total cost. So dont let that fool you that you are not getting the promo. I mentioned a few pages back i bought a mobo from newegg with the free G.skill Sniper DDR3 1600 ram...i already got it ..looks pretty good and from researching it, OC's quite well...although i am still waiting on my cpu, gpu and a few other things i ordered from amazon. I wanted to order my gpu from newegg because of the two free games promo they have with their current higher end video cards but i tried to do two orders in one day at newegg (long story short) with my check card and it got rejected on my 2nd order that had my videocard...even though i had over 5 grand in my checking..so i had to resort to amazon and lose out on the two free games..Maybe newegg didnt like the idea since i had registered that same day at newegg because i forgot my old account login info,etc from years ago that i no longer use the email i used to reg back then at newegg so i had to re-reg a new account there..so i placed one order and then two hours later placed a 2nd order that was over 500 dollars...who knows..rest of my stuff will be here in three days so thats ok and i'll just buy the games off steam or look for a discount for them...the only one i cared about was Far Cry 3 ..didnt care much for the Hitman game that also came with the gigabyte 7870 Ghz Edition card was trying to buy at newegg but had to go with amazon which didnt have the free games deal with the same card with Amazon.
At 50 feet with hdmi...the signal "does indeed" degrade at that point. I know first hand as i use to work at a very high end home theater store..not no big box retail store but a local home theater store that deals exclusively with high end equipment HDTVs, Receivers,Speakers,Preamps,etc
You can go 50 feet but i recommend using this http://www.kvmswitchtech.com/cat5-hdmi-extender-c11633.htm and get a very high quality hdmi cable. Do you really need the 50 feet? Can you get by with 30 feet? I would say 30 feet maybe 40 feet (40ft is pushing it) is the limit without needing anything else besides a high grade high speed hdmi cable. Why i say even 40 may be pushing it >> http://www.avsforum.com/t/1162436/40-foot-hdmi-1-3b-cable-too-long-with-video-switch
One quick google backs up my knowledge in this area..google something like 50 foot hdmi signal loss while you will probably see some say no, you will see those with very good knowledge with HT equipment tell you otherwise..that at 50 feet signal has already began to degrade, you'll need a powered repeater with a high grade cable or just look at the site above kvmswithtech.com
For those that are needing info on home theater equipment, i suggest this site http://www.avsforum.com/f/ Its the best site on the internet for home theater advice, suggestions and recommendations, tips and tricks,etc
PS I suggest if you have a high end hdtv to get it professional calibrated..you would be shocked at the PQ difference after a professional calibrates it properly. its a night and day difference..but this is if you own a higher end hdtv otherwise its not worth the cost to have this done. I still feel Plasma's are the best for gaming right now when we talk big screen hdtv's. Panasonic is it...
Well, the marketing talk for an above bost says this:
Basically HDMI cables won't loose quality over distance, they're digital and either work or don't. Old VGA cables are analog and loose quality gradually, I know watching this (and 5 dim shadows) on a crappy Benq with only VGA input. How that was possible in 2007 is beyond me.
So I moved my little brothers PC to the living room to hook it up to the internet via ethernet. Did another reformat to remove all traces of the pci driver. So far its working like a charm. No weird slowdowns or freezes. Would be crazy if it really is the wireless pci card that's causing the freezing problem.
On good/cool side of things hooking up a PC to my parents 65 inch tv is amazing. Going to need to try out BPM with this.
On good/cool side of things hooking up a PC to my parents 65 inch tv is amazing. Going to need to try out BPM with this.
Actually that happened to my Dad's computer. Wireless card was causing weird lockups.
I just find it so strange since it was working when we built it last xmas. I'm glad its working though. I bought him an ssd to make it snappy and the mobo going out would of been bad timing.
EDIT: Got Steam up and running which liked to crash the pc before the fix. Wish I had a display port cable to try out 120hz stuff.
Does anyone else have problems with permanent grease stains on your left mouse button? Surely I'm not the only one that partakes in snacks while computing. This has happened on all my Logitech gaming mice. I'm wondering if maybe Razer mice are more resistant to these stains.
Edit: I also get these stains on my spacebar.
Edit: I also get these stains on my spacebar.
WickedCobra03
Member
Okay, so I have basically been out of the PC building realm since like 2005ish when I built my last AMD64 X2 build, so I am a little fuzzy. I have been keeping up from time to time, but now I have to build my parents a PC. It doesn't have to be crazy expensive or powerful, just run pretty quiet and cool with a decent amount of power watch HD video, maybe some games, internet and music with some basic office applications and basic photo editing. Not looking for a full gaming PC, but also wouldn't be too mad if it could play games on it.
Here is what I have, does this look okay? I was thinking about going with an AMD A8 or A6 since they seem to be cheaper and run at a lower wattage which is fine for my parents for the reasons I said up top. Should I just pay more money and go with an i5 Ivy Bridge, or go AMD? I am not sure yet if I am going to put a discrete graphics card in yet, but for now, I was going to try going with the integrated graphics through DVI on their older 19 inch 4:3 LCD. Like I said, it is for my parents, so they are looking for a quiet, moderately powerful PC that will last them 7-10 years again. Their last one bought in 2002 is finally getting too slow for general usability (2.8 GHz P4, 1GB RAMBUS(lol) RAM, 120GB HDD, Radeon 9600 AGP).
So basically this is everything. 430W is enough for this, even if I do add like a sub-200 videocard? The integrated graphics should work right out of the box through DVI? Umm, I guess does anyone in here have a lot of experience with the integrated graphics? Either intel or AMD? I guess I heard if you were going integrated only, AMD was the way to go, but reviews are kind of not great when trying to compare integrated intel vs amd vs integrated vs discrete... I saw one, but only a limited number of tests were run.
-Corsair Carbide Series 200R Case
-WD Blue WD10EALX 1TB 7200 RPM SATA 6.0Gb/s 3.5" HDD -Bare Drive
-Thermaltake TR2 W0070RUC 430W ATX12V V2.2
-Kingston HyperX Black 8GB (2 x 4GB) 240-Pin DDR3 SDRAM
-ASRock Z77 Pro4 LGA 1155 Intel Z77 HDMI SATA 6Gb/s USB 3.0 ATX Mobo
-Intel Core i5-3470 Ivy Bridge 3.2GHz (3.6GHz Turbo Boost) LGA 1155 77W Quad-Core Desktop Processor Intel HD Graphics
-ASUS Black Blu-ray Burner SATA BW-12B1ST/BLK/G/AS
-APEVIA Model CVT45 4-Pin PC power to SATA Converter (extra)
Thanks. I plan on building a gaming PC for myself with about the same specs, maybe an unlocked K procesor, maybe an SSD HDD and definitely a discrete videocard, but otherwise pretty close. The thing that sucks is that I would rather be the guinea pig building my gaming PC first since it is my first build in like 6 or 7 years, but my dad kind of wants this put together by Christmas. How is the i5 3470 compared to say a standard non integrated graphics processor i5 3570k?
edit: They want the thing pretty silent. Not so you can't hear anything, but not so there are any whirring of fans you can hear in some gaming PCs even at idle. Is that case going to be okay?
oh, and I am very sorry if some of my facts or terminology is wrong, go easy please. I have been researching for the past week or two trying to catch up on everything while also my personal life has been super busy.
Here is what I have, does this look okay? I was thinking about going with an AMD A8 or A6 since they seem to be cheaper and run at a lower wattage which is fine for my parents for the reasons I said up top. Should I just pay more money and go with an i5 Ivy Bridge, or go AMD? I am not sure yet if I am going to put a discrete graphics card in yet, but for now, I was going to try going with the integrated graphics through DVI on their older 19 inch 4:3 LCD. Like I said, it is for my parents, so they are looking for a quiet, moderately powerful PC that will last them 7-10 years again. Their last one bought in 2002 is finally getting too slow for general usability (2.8 GHz P4, 1GB RAMBUS(lol) RAM, 120GB HDD, Radeon 9600 AGP).
So basically this is everything. 430W is enough for this, even if I do add like a sub-200 videocard? The integrated graphics should work right out of the box through DVI? Umm, I guess does anyone in here have a lot of experience with the integrated graphics? Either intel or AMD? I guess I heard if you were going integrated only, AMD was the way to go, but reviews are kind of not great when trying to compare integrated intel vs amd vs integrated vs discrete... I saw one, but only a limited number of tests were run.
-Corsair Carbide Series 200R Case
-WD Blue WD10EALX 1TB 7200 RPM SATA 6.0Gb/s 3.5" HDD -Bare Drive
-Thermaltake TR2 W0070RUC 430W ATX12V V2.2
-Kingston HyperX Black 8GB (2 x 4GB) 240-Pin DDR3 SDRAM
-ASRock Z77 Pro4 LGA 1155 Intel Z77 HDMI SATA 6Gb/s USB 3.0 ATX Mobo
-Intel Core i5-3470 Ivy Bridge 3.2GHz (3.6GHz Turbo Boost) LGA 1155 77W Quad-Core Desktop Processor Intel HD Graphics
-ASUS Black Blu-ray Burner SATA BW-12B1ST/BLK/G/AS
-APEVIA Model CVT45 4-Pin PC power to SATA Converter (extra)
Thanks. I plan on building a gaming PC for myself with about the same specs, maybe an unlocked K procesor, maybe an SSD HDD and definitely a discrete videocard, but otherwise pretty close. The thing that sucks is that I would rather be the guinea pig building my gaming PC first since it is my first build in like 6 or 7 years, but my dad kind of wants this put together by Christmas. How is the i5 3470 compared to say a standard non integrated graphics processor i5 3570k?
edit: They want the thing pretty silent. Not so you can't hear anything, but not so there are any whirring of fans you can hear in some gaming PCs even at idle. Is that case going to be okay?
oh, and I am very sorry if some of my facts or terminology is wrong, go easy please. I have been researching for the past week or two trying to catch up on everything while also my personal life has been super busy.
As long as signal loss is not too great for what you are trying to send across the cable (1080P needs more bandwidth than say 720P) you will get a 100% perfect signal, but if you do not you can sometimes get white specks in the signal, all the other times you will just not get any signal.
A 50 foot HDMI run might be pushing it a bit, a HDMI repeater might be needed.
Don't waste money on pricey cables, the only thing that matters is gauge of the wire in the cable.
Low gauge = better.
Yeah it can be done, you just need a cable with low gauge wire.
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