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"I need a New PC!" 2012 Thread. Ivy, SSDs, and reading the OP. [Part 2]

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kharma45

Member
Is it possible my video cards crashing is caused by having 320W usable? There's a Ultra LSP550 550-Watt Power Supply that came for my buddies computer. I wonder if I'll still have the same problem if I drop that one in.

I wouldn't use it either, it's not a quality PSU
 
Posting again for the new page. Someone help me, please! :(

So guys, I think my Macbook Pro's (2011, 15", 2.2GHz) HDD is dying. Before I buy a new one (SSD) I'd like to be sure, of course. A scan from SMART utility shows me these results.

5aRQH.png

I'm guessing that it's really FUBAR?

The symptoms:

- everything runs rather slow, a format doesn't really help for long
- rebooting takes ages
 

kharma45

Member
ASUS Releases ARES II Graphics Card w/ Dual HD 7970 GHz Cores

ARESII-1.jpg


Featuring dual AMD Radeon HD 7970 GHz Edition GPUs, 6GB GDDR5 memory and a liquid/air cooling system the ARES II redefines graphic performance.

AMD never did release their rumored HD 7990 but they have left designs for dual HD 7970 designs in the hands of their capable board partners. PowerColor was first out of the gate with the fairly impressive Devil 13, a massive card that featured two overclocked HD 7970 cores and an epic cooling assembly. Now ASUS is getting into the game with the ARES II.

The 11.8” long ARES II will feature a pair of HD 7970 GHz Edition cores running at 1100MHz with Boost enabled and 6GB of GDDR5 purring along at 6.6Gbps, literally ensuring it will outperform NVIDIA’s rare $1000 GTX 690. Oh, and Crossfire will be supported as well for anyone that can afford two of these beasts.

More importantly, it will incorporate a custom designed liquid cooling system that uses a single bay radiator equipped with two quiet 120mm fans. There’s another 80mm fan mounted on the card itself for efficient VRM and memory cooling. According to ASUS, this dual slot design allows for temperatures which are up to 31°C cooler than a reference GTX 690.

Along with these impressive specs, ASUS has also included a fair amount of technology to ensure stable operation over long periods of time, even when overclocking. A 20-phase Super Alloy Power VRM with top-grade components, three 8-pin power connectors and ASUS’ excellent GPU Tweak round out the ARES II’s feature set. We’re fairly certain other features will be included so stay tuned for more information.

Pricing and availably haven’t been announced but expect the ARES II to cost significantly more than $1000.
 

centracore

Member
PCPartPicker part list / Price breakdown by merchant / Benchmarks

CPU: Intel Core i5-3570K 3.4GHz Quad-Core Processor ($225.90 @ Amazon Canada)
CPU Cooler: Cooler Master Hyper 212 EVO 82.9 CFM Sleeve Bearing CPU Cooler ($30.99 @ Newegg Canada)
Motherboard: ASRock Z77 Extreme4 ATX LGA1155 Motherboard ($129.99 @ NCIX)
Memory: Corsair Vengeance 8GB (2 x 4GB) DDR3-1600 Memory ($47.99 @ Newegg Canada)
Storage: Western Digital Caviar Black 1TB 3.5" 7200RPM Internal Hard Drive ($89.79 @ DirectCanada)
Video Card: Gigabyte GeForce GTX 660 Ti 2GB Video Card ($247.48 @ DirectCanada)
Case: Fractal Design Define R4 (Black Pearl) ATX Mid Tower Case ($109.99 @ Canada Computers)
Power Supply: Antec Basiq Plus 550W 80 PLUS Certified ATX12V Power Supply ($54.99 @ Newegg Canada)
Optical Drive: Lite-On iHAS124-04 DVD/CD Writer ($18.99 @ Newegg Canada)
Total: $956.11
(Prices include shipping, taxes, and discounts when available.)
(Generated by PCPartPicker 2013-01-08 09:27 EST-0500)

Will I need (or should I have) any additional fans for this build above and beyond the two 140mm included with the Define R4?
 

Soodanim

Member
Will I need (or should I have) any additional fans for this build above and beyond the two 140mm included with the Define R4?

Coincidentally enough, I have been planning (for the most part) identical build and have just been wondering the same thing. Especially as yesterday I read about positive pressure being good for dust, which is apparently where you have more air being pumped in through the fans (filtered) than is being pushed out, which doesn't leave the case trying to pull air in through any gap it can (not filtered).

With that in mind, if I do go for the R4 I think I'll add one more fan at some point do have that positive airflow, but I think with the removable HDD cage you already have a fair amount of airflow so it probably won't get that hot.
 

Salaadin

Member
I think Im going to upgrade when Haswell gets here so Im doing some early shopping. I want a case thats newer than my Antec 900. Is the HAF XM still considered to be a good case? Anything similar but better that I should be looking at?
 

DJ_Lae

Member
Yay, I can finally order parts! The wait has been killing me.

http://pcpartpicker.com/ca/p/ww3H

(already own the SSD, case, and power supply)

Is the AS Rock Extreme 4 motherboard decent? It's not the pro listed in the OP but it seems to have good reviews. There also seem to be good deals on the MSI Z77A-GD65 but I don't know if it's a better bet (I prefer the look of the AS Rock too, which I realize is silly).

Other than that the only real tricky part at the moment is the video card, as I missed some of the bigger Boxing Day sales and finding a card that still includes the never settle game bundle is ridiculous. This one is pretty much the only bundled 7970 I can find that's not over $500, but I have no idea if XFX is a decent brand or not.

Maybe I'm better off ordering some stuff but holding off on the video card until tomorrow when some more sales cycle.
 

kharma45

Member
Yay, I can finally order parts! The wait has been killing me.

http://pcpartpicker.com/ca/p/ww3H

(already own the SSD, case, and power supply)

Is the AS Rock Extreme 4 motherboard decent? It's not the pro listed in the OP but it seems to have good reviews. There also seem to be good deals on the MSI Z77A-GD65 but I don't know if it's a better bet (I prefer the look of the AS Rock too, which I realize is silly).

Other than that the only real tricky part at the moment is the video card, as I missed some of the bigger Boxing Day sales and finding a card that still includes the never settle game bundle is ridiculous. This one is pretty much the only bundled 7970 I can find that's not over $500, but I have no idea if XFX is a decent brand or not.

Maybe I'm better off ordering some stuff but holding off on the video card until tomorrow when some more sales cycle.

I'd change to 8GB of RAM, 16GB is overkill unless you're doing media work and in that case you should be ideally going i7.
 

kharma45

Member
Your money at the end of the day, personally I'd rather save the $30 or whatever the difference is and upgrade down the line if I need to.

My main rig is still running on 4GB of RAM with no issues at all.
 

2San

Member
Doesn't Crysis 3 need 8GB Ram or something on max settings? I'm not really familiar with the pro's and con's on having 16GB, but that seems like a long term build and the next gen consoles are around the corner. So 16GB doesn't seem that crazy with a build that's going all out. Though you could always easily upgrade the ram at a later date. Don't take this as a recommendation for 16GB, just wondering.
 

DJ_Lae

Member
I should confess I've overextended a bit of my build as I can claim a portion of it through work, so a small amount for more memory is only partially coming out of my pocket. I figure 16GB should be good for a while so I don't have to worry about that in the future.

It's why I'm going with a 7970 where I would have probably just gone 7870 on my own, though the game bundle did help too (it's why it's so frustrating that it's basically gone now).

Also, the last time I built my computer I put 4GB (the going amount) into it, and wanted to upgrade it a couple of years after...except memory prices had skyrocketed since and another 4GB would have cost more than twice what I originally paid. It's kind of nice that it's come back down since then.
 

hwalker84

Member
Will I need (or should I have) any additional fans for this build above and beyond the two 140mm included with the Define R4?

I bought a second Fractal R4 Silent Fan. You probably wont need it but I got one just for more air flow. They are so silent it won't add any noise.
 

centracore

Member
I bought a second Fractal R4 Silent Fan. You probably wont need it but I got one just for more air flow. They are so silent it won't add any noise.

Where are you putting it in the case? I am leaning towards getting an extra one but am unsure of where it would make the most difference..
 

Irobot82

Member
PC GAF,

The AMD A6 5400K. I'm looking to use it in a HTPC. It says it's dual core. Is it two cores or two modules? (being piledriver based and all)

Thanks GAF.
 

Irobot82

Member
Where are you putting it in the case? I am leaning towards getting an extra one but am unsure of where it would make the most difference..

In My R4 I have two in the front, with the top HDD tray removed. One on the bottom, and one on the top. I have 2 120's sandwiching a radiater on the back for my CPU. That one makes all the noice all the others are silent.
 

kharma45

Member
PC GAF,

The AMD A6 5400K. I'm looking to use it in a HTPC. It says it's dual core. Is it two cores or two modules? (being piledriver based and all)

Thanks GAF.

It’s a single-module with two integer cores and a single floating-point unit. I think the APUs that came before it were proper dual and quad cores though.
 

kewlmyc

Member
So, reading the OP, are 6 core CPUs and 4GB Video cards not worth the money right now? I'm not buying a new computer, just updating my Motherboard, Video Card, Ram, and CPU.
 

mkenyon

Banned
Where are you putting it in the case? I am leaning towards getting an extra one but am unsure of where it would make the most difference..
I did some pretty extensive testing with fan placement. The case comes with two 140mm fans. With adding a pretty decent 1200rpm 120mm fan, I found that having the two 140s in the front, with a single 120 in the rear netted me the best results. I did have a 7970 Matrix in there, which dumps a fair amount of heat directly in the system. With a Kepler card, or a lower power AMD card, I wouldn't think that it would even be necessary.
So, reading the OP, are 6 core CPUs and 4GB Video cards not worth the money right now? I'm not buying a new computer, just updating my Motherboard, Video Card, Ram, and CPU.
As Kharma says, it all depends on what you want to do with it. That overhead most certainly can be used with specific applications, whether it be rendering videos or specific monitor requirements outside of 60hz 1080p.
 

timnich

Member
I am out of my mind here. I have reapplied the thermal paste, went and bought the highest quality thermal paste, went and bought a NEW processor, used the stock cooler, and still nothing. I'm out almost $300 and still have this problem. I'm just about ready to quit PC gaming I'm so frustrated. Can anyone help me please? I would really appreciate it.
I tried to exchange the motherboard today, the guy at the store went out and tested it, only to come back and tell me there was nothing wrong with it at all. Came back home, super carefully put only the bare essentials together(with a new cpu and psu, both of which work on another PC) and still the $&@"ing thing won't post. I've retested every component and it just won't work! I'm currently installing a different version of windows to see if maybe the disk was bad, what else can I do other than toss the whole thing in the trash?
 

mkenyon

Banned
I tried to exchange the motherboard today, the guy at the store went out and tested it, only to come back and tell me there was nothing wrong with it at all. Came back home, super carefully put only the bare essentials together(with a new cpu and psu, both of which work on another PC) and still the $&@"ing thing won't post. I've retested every component and it just won't work! I'm currently installing a different version of windows to see if maybe the disk was bad, what else can I do other than toss the whole thing in the trash?
Are you in the Pac NW?

My best guess is that you've got a short somewhere, bad memory, or you have incorrectly plugged something in.

Did the guy at the store try with your memory, or his own?
 
Thinking about either af120s or af140s with my stock fans in my R4 case.

Obviously not a huge difference in price, but I don't know... haha.
Could the 120s have any benefits over its larger brother?

btw, the 20% promo was sent to me by Newegg for buying my 7950.
 

Stubo

Member
Thinking about either af120s or af140s with my stock fans in my R4 case.


Obviously not a huge difference in price, but I don't know... haha
The 120mm appears to be a twin pack, so you'd be buying 4 fans?

You perhaps already know this, just thought I should point it out just in case :)
 

mkenyon

Banned
Thinking about either af120s or af140s with my stock fans in my R4 case.


Obviously not a huge difference in price, but I don't know... haha.
Could the 120s have any benefits over its larger brother?
Go for the 120s. This is a huge generalization and I don't know if it is applicable to the AF series, but when you have 140mm versions of a fan line, they're never as good. They take the same design and slap a new motor on it rather than design it as a 140mm from the ground up, which can lead to wildly different acoustic signatures.

Plus, 120 is the standard that is not going anywhere for years.

*edit*

Lots of Lian Li cases on sale at Newegg for 20% off. The PC-7HX is just over $100 with free shipping.
 

Subaru

Member
Hey GAF!

I'm going to New York next month and I'm thinking about buying a new VGA.
My current VGA is Geforce GTX 570, and I'm gonna buy a GTX 680 MSI Lightning. What do you think about? ANyone recomends another Nvidia card for the same price range? (I don't like ATI very much, I had a lot of problems and I just can't forgive =/).
 

timnich

Member
Are you in the Pac NW?

My best guess is that you've got a short somewhere, bad memory, or you have incorrectly plugged something in.

Did the guy at the store try with your memory, or his own?
No I'm not.

He used his own, but I've pulled memory from a working PC and still nothing.

Just finished installing windows, it goes to prepare my desktop and then proceeds to just shut down and reset in an endless cycle, never posting.
 
Go for the 120s. This is a huge generalization and I don't know if it is applicable to the AF series, but when you have 140mm versions of a fan line, they're never as good. They take the same design and slap a new motor on it rather than design it as a 140mm from the ground up, which can lead to wildly different acoustic signatures.

Plus, 120 is the standard that is not going anywhere for years.

Ah very insightful. Thanks mkenyon!
af120 it is.
 
I'd suggest considering more of the fans which come with the R4 too, since their specs compare favourably.

AF140

Fractal R2 140mm

In particular I'd point to 67.8 vs 66.0 CFM in favour of the Corsairs, but 24dbA vs 18.5dbA in favour of the Fractal fans.

Hm... yeah I'd never considered the specs of Fractal R2 fans, but they seem quite good.

Another plus would be matching fans throughout.
 

mkenyon

Banned
No I'm not.

He used his own, but I've pulled memory from a working PC and still nothing.

Just finished installing windows, it goes to prepare my desktop and then proceeds to just shut down and reset in an endless cycle, never posting.
That sounds like a thermal issue. Let it rest for 20 mins or so, then boot up and go into BIOS. Take a look at the CPU temperature.
I'd suggest considering more of the fans which come with the R4 too, since their specs compare favourably.

AF140

Fractal R2 140mm

In particular I'd point to 67.8 vs 66.0 CFM in favour of the Corsairs, but 24dbA vs 18.5dbA in favour of the Fractal fans.
You generally can't believe any of those numbers posted on fans. The only companies to my knowledge that accurately test CFM and dB are Corsair, Noiseblocker, and Noctua. Everything else is wildly different than real performance.
 

Stubo

Member
You generally can't believe any of those numbers posted on fans. The only companies to my knowledge that accurately test CFM and dB are Corsair, Noiseblocker, and Noctua. Everything else is wildly different than real performance.
Well that's not very consumer friendly of them! Fair enough, I thought I'd stumbled across something useful, haha.
 

mkenyon

Banned
It more has to do with the fact that they are really hard to accurately test than being deceitful. Even testing the CFM can have an insane number of variables.
 

mkenyon

Banned
Just did that, after about 5 min of being on it sits at about 23-24 degrees.
Weird.

So, the same issue exists with different memory. It exists with a different CPU and PSU. You can at least get to windows install, but then it won't post ever again?
Sorry, just 2 more questions:

Comparison

So the CFM loss is not that important?
and, would a 12cm look silly when used side-by-side with my stock 14cms?
IMO, 22-25dB is the level when fans get 'too loud', at least subjectively for me.

I think the 120s in here look fine

 
Is the Coolermaster Hyper 101 decent or is the 212 pretty much the one to get? My local PC place doesn't have the 212 in stock but they've got that other one.
 

Astra

Member
Hey GAF, finally building my own PC and have the parts picked out. Just want to run it by everyone here, to make sure it's all looking good.

GPU - Gigabyte GeForce GTX 660 Ti

Case - Silverstone Redline ATX Tower Case

Motherboard - ASUS P8Z77-V Lk ATX LGA1155 Z77

CPU - Intel Core i5 3570K

Heatsink - Cooler Master Hyper 212 Plus

RAM - Corsair Vengeance Blue Lowprofile 8GB

HDD - Western Digital Caviar Black 1TB SATA3 6GB/S 7200RPM

PSU - Antec Basiq BP550 Plus 550W

Most components are from Hazaro's builds, so my only real concern is the case and PSU. Just want to be sure everything will fit, and the PSU has enough power.

Edit: I'm actually not getting the GPU right away, as I am short on funds. I need the PC though, since my other one died. Between now and when I buy it, I might find a 670 on sale, so would probably go for that if so. Would the PSU be enough for that contingency as well?
 

timnich

Member
Weird.

So, the same issue exists with different memory. It exists with a different CPU and PSU. You can at least get to windows install, but then it won't post ever again?
Yup. Ive tried about every possible combination of parts, with The only thing that remains the same being the motherboard. Also keep in mind that I've built a few computers before, never ran into a problem like this before.
 
IMO, 22-25dB is the level when fans get 'too loud', at least subjectively for me.

I think the 120s in here look fine

Oh wow, that is a brilliant rig. Didn't think you had a personal example!!
Someday I'll fetch a liquid-cooler in place of my 212+ like you.
I'm going to move my fractals as intakes as well.
Does it have positive pressure, then?

Thanks again, please be my R4 build - mentor lol.

P.S. I start building today, whenever my gfx card arrives - are there any tips you have for me?
 

mkenyon

Banned
Yup. Ive tried about every possible combination of parts, with The only thing that remains the same being the motherboard. Also keep in mind that I've built a few computers before, never ran into a problem like this before.
Very odd.

Have you made sure that the boot device is set to the disk that windows was installed to?
Oh wow, that is a brilliant rig. Didn't think you had a personal example!!
Someday I'll fetch a liquid-cooler in place of my 212+ like you.
I'm going to move my fractals as intakes as well.
Does it have positive pressure, then?

Thanks again, please be my R4 build - mentor lol.

P.S. I start building today, whenever my gfx card arrives - are there any tips you have for me?
Thanks!

The closed loop coolers are really about aesthetics more than anything. But, they do help clean up a system.

As far as tips, just take your time. There's a guide in the OP about cable management in an Arc Mini which works pretty well for the R4 as well. It's exciting to have all of the parts, but if you are super thorough, you'll have a system that performs a bit better thermally as well as have something that stays a bit more dust free.

Just get yourself a pack of zip ties, and always try to route cables through the back side.
 

SimonM7

Member
I'd recommend getting a custom cooler for your CPU if you don't have one and OCing it, you should be able to get at least another 1GHz out of it.

A 6870 to 7970 will see a very good boost http://www.anandtech.com/bench/Product/539?vs=618

Ah, excellent, thanks!

My current card is giving me checkerboard patterns in random places in windows. It has done for a while, but it's far more noticable in windows 8, because it affects "graphics" rather than the desktop wallpaper or text or anything. No problems at all while playing games, and the temperature is fine, so there doesn't seem to be anything I can do about it but replace it.
 

mkenyon

Banned
Ah, excellent, thanks!

My current card is giving me checkerboard patterns in random places in windows. It has done for a while, but it's far more noticable in windows 8, because it affects "graphics" rather than the desktop wallpaper or text or anything. No problems at all while playing games, and the temperature is fine, so there doesn't seem to be anything I can do about it but replace it.
Yeah, that's the first sign of a dying GPU.

Might still be under warranty?
 

NoRéN

Member
I tried to exchange the motherboard today, the guy at the store went out and tested it, only to come back and tell me there was nothing wrong with it at all. Came back home, super carefully put only the bare essentials together(with a new cpu and psu, both of which work on another PC) and still the $&@"ing thing won't post. I've retested every component and it just won't work! I'm currently installing a different version of windows to see if maybe the disk was bad, what else can I do other than toss the whole thing in the trash?

Fuck. That sucks. Sounds like an overheating issue like mkenyon said.

This is why Im glad I bought most of my parts on amazon.
 
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