LiquidMetal14
hide your water-based mammals
I know based on my research that it's true. I think the benefits of hyperthreading with 8 cores (4 virtual) is a better long term proposition even if spending a little more.
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"I need a New PC!" 2012 Thread. Ivy, SSDs, and reading the OP. [Part 2]
- Thread starter Hazaro
- Start date
- Status
I know based on my research that it's true. I think the benefits of hyperthreading with 8 cores (4 virtual) is a better long term proposition even if spending a little more.
http://www.newegg.com/Product/ComboDealDetails.aspx?ItemList=Combo.1191735
This is only up for a few more hours. The power supply and a Carbide 300r for 75 after rebates if you buy the combo. WOW. Considering the case goes for 80 regularly this is a steal.
Third Strike
Member
Is the Thermaltake SMART 850 Watt PSU any good? I've never dealt with this brand before. I'm considering them, because I have about $70 in reward zone cash:
http://www.bestbuy.com/site/Thermal...716510&skuId=5438543&st=thermaltake&cp=1&lp=3
http://www.bestbuy.com/site/Thermal...716510&skuId=5438543&st=thermaltake&cp=1&lp=3
Koroviev
Member
Went and picked up a 7850 from Frys after work. I had them match the Newegg price, so it was only $200 and I still received the $15 mail-in rebate. Also picked up a new case to replace the lousy proprietary one...it looked a tad small in store, but it looks like the monolith on my desk.
Edit: Everything was going great, then I turned off the pc to properly fit a molex connector since I noticed the case fan wasn't spinning. It's working perfectly now, but suddenly Windows 8 won't boot past the logo anymore. I've been troubleshooting this for the past hour or so and I still have no idea what's wrong. Of course I tried disconnecting the fan, but no joy. Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated.
Edit 2: Well, Windows finally booted again. I'm really not sure what I did, but I *think* it had something to do with a restore point. I tried pointing to one earlier, but it failed. As a general rule, I don't expect any official MS solutions to work and usually strike gold in some obscure tech thread dated to 2006. Oh, and the best part: the fan isn't spinning now! I'm really hoping it's just a coincidence (i.e., I once again failed to fit the connector properly) and not some freak incompatibility.
Edit: Everything was going great, then I turned off the pc to properly fit a molex connector since I noticed the case fan wasn't spinning. It's working perfectly now, but suddenly Windows 8 won't boot past the logo anymore. I've been troubleshooting this for the past hour or so and I still have no idea what's wrong. Of course I tried disconnecting the fan, but no joy. Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated.
Edit 2: Well, Windows finally booted again. I'm really not sure what I did, but I *think* it had something to do with a restore point. I tried pointing to one earlier, but it failed. As a general rule, I don't expect any official MS solutions to work and usually strike gold in some obscure tech thread dated to 2006. Oh, and the best part: the fan isn't spinning now! I'm really hoping it's just a coincidence (i.e., I once again failed to fit the connector properly) and not some freak incompatibility.
I got an Alienware TactX mouse as a gift and I've been very happy with it for 2 years. However, recently the left mouse button has been giving me problems mainly that it'll sometimes click multiple times when I clicked only once or when I'm holding the button down, it'll release by itself. Really annoying trying to play Heavy in TF2. Apparently, I'm not the only one with these problems. I went to the Dell forums and saw people with the same problems except their's started acting up less than 5 months after it's use.
Can I do anything to try and fix my mouse? If not, next question.
I'm thinking of getting a Cooler Master CM Storm Xornet since I can get that at a discount as well ($6). However, is it an upgrade or a downgrade? Or will I barely notice the difference from my TactX? If it's a downgrade, can somebody recommend me a mouse that would be as good or better? Unfortunately, price is a factor but I'm not looking for or need something extreme like a G-13 or a Madcatz Cyborg. Preferably wired.
Can I do anything to try and fix my mouse? If not, next question.
I'm thinking of getting a Cooler Master CM Storm Xornet since I can get that at a discount as well ($6). However, is it an upgrade or a downgrade? Or will I barely notice the difference from my TactX? If it's a downgrade, can somebody recommend me a mouse that would be as good or better? Unfortunately, price is a factor but I'm not looking for or need something extreme like a G-13 or a Madcatz Cyborg. Preferably wired.
TimHortons
Member
Same thing happened to mine but only after 6 months or so, never tried fixing it but i've read that its the internal plastic on the buttons get worn down and can be shaved to remedy it. I didn't find it worth it to do and bought a g300 instead. Miss that scroll wheel though with the infinite scroll. Was great to map to for spamming abilites.
Hi GAF,
Please bear with me, as I'm still rather new to building PCs.
In 2008 I built my PC with my dad a a birthday present. Since then I've not really ever bothered with upgrading parts, or improving the PC as it ran just fine.
However, around 5 years have now passed and I'm in the process of wanting to upgrade my PC. A couple months ago I upgraded my graphics card (ATI Radeon HD 6870) , so that is fine. A friend of mine has also given me 4GB DDR3 RAM (1600mhz) that he is no longer using.
I want to upgrade my CPU and my motherboard. Looking at my PC specs I currently have:
- Intel Core 2 Duo E8400 LGA775 "Wolfdale" CPU, &
- Asus P5KC Combo Intel P35 (Socket 775) motherboard.
I've had a look about online for reasonable priced MOBOs and CPUs and I was wondering what the general opinion is on:
- Intel Core i5-3570K CPU (going for around £160), &
- Asus P8Z77-V LX2 Motherboard (going for around £80).
Ideally the prices there are around what I would pay for the components. If anyone has any suggestions for different parts that would be great. I'm predominantly a console gamer, however in the last 6 months or so I have shifted towards PC, so I'm looking for something that would allow me to run games and a great spec, but also something that will last for a good number of years.
Thank you!
Please bear with me, as I'm still rather new to building PCs.
In 2008 I built my PC with my dad a a birthday present. Since then I've not really ever bothered with upgrading parts, or improving the PC as it ran just fine.
However, around 5 years have now passed and I'm in the process of wanting to upgrade my PC. A couple months ago I upgraded my graphics card (ATI Radeon HD 6870) , so that is fine. A friend of mine has also given me 4GB DDR3 RAM (1600mhz) that he is no longer using.
I want to upgrade my CPU and my motherboard. Looking at my PC specs I currently have:
- Intel Core 2 Duo E8400 LGA775 "Wolfdale" CPU, &
- Asus P5KC Combo Intel P35 (Socket 775) motherboard.
I've had a look about online for reasonable priced MOBOs and CPUs and I was wondering what the general opinion is on:
- Intel Core i5-3570K CPU (going for around £160), &
- Asus P8Z77-V LX2 Motherboard (going for around £80).
Ideally the prices there are around what I would pay for the components. If anyone has any suggestions for different parts that would be great. I'm predominantly a console gamer, however in the last 6 months or so I have shifted towards PC, so I'm looking for something that would allow me to run games and a great spec, but also something that will last for a good number of years.
Thank you!
plasticpassion
Member
I've begun researching my first PC build. So far I have pieced these parts together: PC Part Picker. My goal is to build a gaming rig that will last me for the next few years, hence buying the GTX 680.
A few questions:
-Is the GTX 680 4gb overkill for dual monitors? I'm not sure the need for 4gb over 2gb, but if it will help future proof the card, I might as well get it. I am planning on playing on my 1080p TV via hdmi output, if that makes a difference. I also of course want to play current gen games at max settings with HD mods, etc.
-How much power will this system need with the GTX 680 and i7-3770k?
-Is liquid cooling necessary if I am unlikely to overclock the processor, aside from the turbo mode intel offers? I attempted to OC my current rig and wasted a lot of time with little success. I guess I wasn't tech savvy enough to get it to work. Therefore, I was considering this one.
-What motherboard features should I look for in consideration of that processor and GPU?
Thanks for the support! This is all relatively new to me, building a PC.
A few questions:
-Is the GTX 680 4gb overkill for dual monitors? I'm not sure the need for 4gb over 2gb, but if it will help future proof the card, I might as well get it. I am planning on playing on my 1080p TV via hdmi output, if that makes a difference. I also of course want to play current gen games at max settings with HD mods, etc.
-How much power will this system need with the GTX 680 and i7-3770k?
-Is liquid cooling necessary if I am unlikely to overclock the processor, aside from the turbo mode intel offers? I attempted to OC my current rig and wasted a lot of time with little success. I guess I wasn't tech savvy enough to get it to work. Therefore, I was considering this one.
-What motherboard features should I look for in consideration of that processor and GPU?
Thanks for the support! This is all relatively new to me, building a PC.
LiquidMetal14
hide your water-based mammals
You really can't go wrong with them 2 parts you picked. Almost everything from your older build will just transplant fine. What's your PSU?
ASUS is a leader in the MB field so I wholeheartedly approve. That CPU is also "gangster".
Dave_6
Member
This OP and thread is so awesome yet intimidating at the same time. I've been wanting to build a PC since BF3 was first shown but never did as all the 'tech' stuff scared me off. I've never been good with PCs as far as when one has issues or gets a virus but I'm trying to learn somehow.
Anyways, I have decided that I finally want to build one and I want it to be fairly top end. I will have it hooked up to my 60" Pioneer plasma/5.1 home theater setup; I've also thought about just buying a new chair and desk along with a 27" or so monitor and leaving in another room. After going over the OP and browsing a few pages of this thread here is what I'm leaning towards: http://pcpartpicker.com/p/xcO8
I'd like to have something that can play most anything maxed out or close to it (possibly even Crysis 3 but I don't know if this build could even do that). Any additional ideas or thoughts?
Thanks for making this thread OP!
Anyways, I have decided that I finally want to build one and I want it to be fairly top end. I will have it hooked up to my 60" Pioneer plasma/5.1 home theater setup; I've also thought about just buying a new chair and desk along with a 27" or so monitor and leaving in another room. After going over the OP and browsing a few pages of this thread here is what I'm leaning towards: http://pcpartpicker.com/p/xcO8
I'd like to have something that can play most anything maxed out or close to it (possibly even Crysis 3 but I don't know if this build could even do that). Any additional ideas or thoughts?
Thanks for making this thread OP!
So I have another problem, GAF. I made a clean install on my new SSD yesterday, and it has worked fine so far. However, when I start the PC, it always asks me to choose between two Windows 7 installations, the new one on my SSD and the old one on my HDD. I was originally going to format my HDD and use it exclusively for storage, but I've run into a problem.
I removed the HDD this morning and when I started the PC, I got the message, "BOOTMGR IS MISSING. PRESS CTRL ALT DEL TO RESTART."
I restarted a few more times just to see if it was a fluke, and I kept getting that same message. I reattached the HDD, restarted the PC, and it booted up with no problem.
Next, I restarted my PC and went into my BIOS to view the boot order. It listed the HDD as first priority and the SSD as second priority. I changed the SSD to first priority and the HDD as second priority and tried again. Even with the SSD set to first priority, it still gives me the "BOOTMGR IS MISSING. PRESS CTRL ALT DEL TO RESTART" message. I went into the BIOS again, reset the boot orders with the HDD as first and the SSD as second, and my PC booted normally like it should.
For some reason, I can't remove the HDD from my PC or even remove it from first priority in the boot order or I'll get the BOOTMGR IS MISSING message. Does anyone know what I can do so that I can boot from the SSD and then format the HDD ?
Any help will be greatly appreciated.
I removed the HDD this morning and when I started the PC, I got the message, "BOOTMGR IS MISSING. PRESS CTRL ALT DEL TO RESTART."
I restarted a few more times just to see if it was a fluke, and I kept getting that same message. I reattached the HDD, restarted the PC, and it booted up with no problem.
Next, I restarted my PC and went into my BIOS to view the boot order. It listed the HDD as first priority and the SSD as second priority. I changed the SSD to first priority and the HDD as second priority and tried again. Even with the SSD set to first priority, it still gives me the "BOOTMGR IS MISSING. PRESS CTRL ALT DEL TO RESTART" message. I went into the BIOS again, reset the boot orders with the HDD as first and the SSD as second, and my PC booted normally like it should.
For some reason, I can't remove the HDD from my PC or even remove it from first priority in the boot order or I'll get the BOOTMGR IS MISSING message. Does anyone know what I can do so that I can boot from the SSD and then format the HDD ?
Any help will be greatly appreciated.
GHG
Member
When you did the clean install on the SSD did you do it with the old HDD still connected to your Mobo?
If so then it can sometimes cause weird conflicts where you computer will point to your original windows install as the boot drive and not fully install the new boot files you need on your SSD. I ran into similar issues on my previous PC build a couple of years ago.
If possible, you need to do a clean install of windows on your SSD with your old HDD disconnected.
Looks good apart from I would advise going for the 7970 over the 680 GTX 2GB version, that is, unless you absolutely need Physx. Its cheaper, has more VRAM (which will make a difference in the future) and has more performance than the 680. Lots of overclocking headroom also. If you must go for Nvidia then I would advise looking into the 4GB versions of the 670, 680.
That build should be fine for Crysis 3 based on the recommended specs they released recently.
Well, that's a kick in the junk. Yeah, I did the clean install with my old HDD still connected to the Mobo. I guess when I have a little time someday soon, I'll boot to the old Win 7 installation, format the SSD, power down, remove the HDD, and then reboot with the Win 7 install disc in the drive. Do you think it should work then?
If it does work, do you think reattaching the old HDD later to format it will cause any problems?
Infinite Justice
Member
IIRC whats happeneing is that your computer is still pointing to your HDD install of windows and its bootmgr. So because of that when it sees the SSD's version it then gives the option to load both with a selection.
So when you removed the HDD, since its looking for that path it will push the error not knowing that your SSD version will also have a bootmgr. I guess it doesn't check for others and switch if appicable at that point?
I think there was a program that got mentioned here to strip it out but you can check whats going on in msconfig (go to run -> type msconfig-> click boot tab) because IIRC it will show your different boots info and the ability to pick one or the other (maybe?).
Hopefully someone else with more experience can confirm or deny this.
GHG
Member
Yep thats exactly what I had to do.
As for your question, reattaching the old HDD later wont cause any problems, it will give you 2 boot options when you turn on your PC, just chose the new install on your SSD to proceed with and then reformat your old drive from disk management once booted up.
Here is what appears in the msconfig Boot tab:
When the C drive (the HDD) is selected, it gives me the option to Delete, but I'm scared to do that at this point. Maybe when I get to the point of doing a clean install with the HDD removed, I'll try deleting the C drive from the boot tab first.
Thank you, GHG and Infinite Justice, for your responses. If anyone else has any suggestions, feel free to post!
When the C drive (the HDD) is selected, it gives me the option to Delete, but I'm scared to do that at this point. Maybe when I get to the point of doing a clean install with the HDD removed, I'll try deleting the C drive from the boot tab first.
Thank you, GHG and Infinite Justice, for your responses. If anyone else has any suggestions, feel free to post!
·feist·;46331010 said:Watch this video.
Swiftech H220 Showcase & REAL-WORLD Performance & Silence Demo Linus Tech Tips CES 2013
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=tZgctchIQ7M
Intel i7 3770K @ 4.6GHz
:O
Absolutely destroys the competition. Reading up it seems like the first, true legit AIO closed loop system. Doesn't hurt that it's made by an actual watercooling company. It can also handle additional water blocks for GPUs too.
Looks like it's priced at $140. I'm there whenever it becomes available.
That's a great response to come back to! Thank you.
My PSU is an Antec TruePower New Blue Modular 750W PSU. I would say it's about a year and a half old now and was bought to replace my older PSU from my 2008 build that died.
Trojita
Rapid Response Threadmaker
Is there any panel or accessory I could use to control the volume of my Windows Sound with like a dialer or something. I could use the not very convenient keys on my keyboard but I like to have a physical representation of where I'm putting the audio volume levels.
I know some soundcards come with a front panel. I'm using a Titanium HD if it makes a difference.
I know some soundcards come with a front panel. I'm using a Titanium HD if it makes a difference.
·feist·;46331010 said:Watch this video.
Swiftech H220 Showcase & REAL-WORLD Performance & Silence Demo Linus Tech Tips CES 2013
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=tZgctchIQ7M
Intel i7 3770K @ 4.6GHz
How did I miss this? Just give me a release date. All I need.
I was going to go with an H80i, but that ST performance/noise.
I didn't have any problems using TV as a display, when I bought a PC past summer and first booted it up.
Yeah just hook it up with an HDMI cable.
GHG
Member
I used my TV to do my initial setup on my new build 2 weeks ago. I don't even own a monitor anymore...
Koroviev
Member
Yep, I'm using a 25" television right now. It's nice because it has enough HDMI ports for my PC and PS3. And I'm using it at my desk, not in a living room.
Well...he hooked up the HDMI cable to one of the GPU ports, right? And he's using the proper input?
GHG
Member
Check the GPU is seated properly in the PCI-E slot. Disconnect any power connectors, take it out and reseat it and hook up the power cables again. Then give it another go.
Another thing he could try is possibly the motherboard has an onboard GPU? If so there may be a HDMI output on the motherboard itself that its defaulting to in the bios. Try connecting it to that if it exists.
Create multiple partitions on the USB and duplicate each ISO to each partition. Setup the first partition as Linux with a bootloader of your choice and set your BIOS to boot from that partition.
Wait and find out
Koroviev
Member
I don't even know what I want to play...I'm not used to being able to run modern games properly <:T
Thanks to the people who recommended going with an AMD card. I was able to get the MSI Twin Frozr III R7850 for a very reasonable price and it's excellent. It's idling at a mere 24C and I haven't installed any auxiliary cooling solutions other than the large case fan that came with the tower.
Thanks to the people who recommended going with an AMD card. I was able to get the MSI Twin Frozr III R7850 for a very reasonable price and it's excellent. It's idling at a mere 24C and I haven't installed any auxiliary cooling solutions other than the large case fan that came with the tower.
Koroviev
Member
How much would that increase temps, though? I kind of like having a nice card that runs so cool and quiet.
Edit: And I wasn't anticipating rebuilding my PC from scratch this week...I blame this thread. Only parts I've kept are the PSU (fairly new 500W Corsair) and the HDD (1TB, 7200 RPM). I don't need an SSD right now...I don't need an SSD right now (._. )
Is it possible to do a fresh install of windows 7 with a OEM copy?
I'm a bit embarrassed to say why but I ended up getting a virus while downloading something off cnet last night. MSE caught it. Follow up scan with MSE and Malwarebytes caught one thing each and the PC looks clean now. I even ran the programs in safe mode and everything came up clean. It appears to have been a google redirect if that matters.
However, I have seen it being mentioned before that a fresh install is sometimes a good idea.
I'm a bit embarrassed to say why but I ended up getting a virus while downloading something off cnet last night. MSE caught it. Follow up scan with MSE and Malwarebytes caught one thing each and the PC looks clean now. I even ran the programs in safe mode and everything came up clean. It appears to have been a google redirect if that matters.
However, I have seen it being mentioned before that a fresh install is sometimes a good idea.
Azure Dream
Member
I've got everything bought but the power supply for my build. People here (thank you again) helpfully pointed me to this one, which looked great and was on sale for $90. Unfortunately, it was out of stock almost immediately, stayed out of stock for the remainder of the sale, and came back at $150. Dropped briefly back to $130, then shot back up to $150.
PCPartPicker helpfully points out that the price is usually drops much lower than that, and I'd be dumb to pick it up for the price it's currently at. So I've been waiting, and waiting, and watching the NewEgg newletters and such.
They advertised a 24 hour deal today only, COOLER MASTER Silent Pro Hybrid RS-850-SPHA-D3 850W. It's Plus Gold like the SeaSonic, more powerful (more than I'd need, I've been told). But the price drop is attractive, $139.99, with a $40 Visa Rebate card offer only valid through today on top.
But I'm not sure I'd want to mess with that fan controller, if it's required. I'm also worried if a bigger power supply will be a measurably bigger power draw on my limited circuit. Noise doesn't really bother me, but the rest of the rig will apparently be very quiet, so there is that concern too.
Should I keep waiting out the SeaSonic, or jump on this?
PCPartPicker helpfully points out that the price is usually drops much lower than that, and I'd be dumb to pick it up for the price it's currently at. So I've been waiting, and waiting, and watching the NewEgg newletters and such.
They advertised a 24 hour deal today only, COOLER MASTER Silent Pro Hybrid RS-850-SPHA-D3 850W. It's Plus Gold like the SeaSonic, more powerful (more than I'd need, I've been told). But the price drop is attractive, $139.99, with a $40 Visa Rebate card offer only valid through today on top.
But I'm not sure I'd want to mess with that fan controller, if it's required. I'm also worried if a bigger power supply will be a measurably bigger power draw on my limited circuit. Noise doesn't really bother me, but the rest of the rig will apparently be very quiet, so there is that concern too.
Should I keep waiting out the SeaSonic, or jump on this?
sorijealut
Member
Hey guys, I had a couple questions. Would greatly appreciate it if you can answer some for me.
1) What are some things I can do now, that my system and OS are running fine? I want to try overclocking a little bit.
2) How do I address the occasional noise that my computer makes (I think either from graphics card or CPU cooler).
3) Is it normal for my front-bottom intake to show less rpm than the top due to the drive cages?
In my build here I'm seeing GPU temp idle around 30 Celcius and about 50 Celcius when I'm playing Dota 2.
Not sure how to read these temps, but they seem normal for the R4 case
There's also this:
1) What are some things I can do now, that my system and OS are running fine? I want to try overclocking a little bit.
2) How do I address the occasional noise that my computer makes (I think either from graphics card or CPU cooler).
3) Is it normal for my front-bottom intake to show less rpm than the top due to the drive cages?
In my build here I'm seeing GPU temp idle around 30 Celcius and about 50 Celcius when I'm playing Dota 2.
Not sure how to read these temps, but they seem normal for the R4 case
There's also this:
Koroviev
Member
For my next project I'd like to do some upgrades on my younger sister's PC. I'm going to install my old (hardly used) GTX 460 in her tower today, but her CPU is very poor. It's an X2 215 @ 2.7 GHz and my old CPU is an X2 250 @ 3.0 GHz, so I don't even think it would be worth it to swap them out. I upgraded her OS to Windows 8 the other day, so at least she's working with a modern OS.
However, I would like to work on getting some new components installed, and I would like to do it in stages.
Here's what I'm thinking:
1. Upgrade the CPU to an Intel processor with a compatible motherboard (doesn't need to be overclockable) and 8GB of RAM (because why not). Also pick up a new tower to start arranging things properly.
2. Upgrade the GPU and the PSU to provide decent support at 1080p. (The current PSU is a 430W Corsair, so it's not terrible.)
3. Finally upgrade the monitor. Her current monitor isn't even widescreen, so it really needs to go, but I'd like to switch it out last since the other components need to be in place first.
How much of a compromise is the i3 relative to the i5?
Edit: Oops, didn't anticipate that her current PSU wouldn't have enough PCIe adapters. I felt bad, so I went ahead and swapped out her CPU and installed an Antec exhaust fan. At least her tower is now much cooler and ever so slightly faster. Swapping out the CPU is still my top priority. While the GTX 460 is the better card, I don't think it will offer much improvement over her current GTX 550ti with the CPU bottleneck in place, especially at her resolution.
However, I would like to work on getting some new components installed, and I would like to do it in stages.
Here's what I'm thinking:
1. Upgrade the CPU to an Intel processor with a compatible motherboard (doesn't need to be overclockable) and 8GB of RAM (because why not). Also pick up a new tower to start arranging things properly.
2. Upgrade the GPU and the PSU to provide decent support at 1080p. (The current PSU is a 430W Corsair, so it's not terrible.)
3. Finally upgrade the monitor. Her current monitor isn't even widescreen, so it really needs to go, but I'd like to switch it out last since the other components need to be in place first.
How much of a compromise is the i3 relative to the i5?
Edit: Oops, didn't anticipate that her current PSU wouldn't have enough PCIe adapters. I felt bad, so I went ahead and swapped out her CPU and installed an Antec exhaust fan. At least her tower is now much cooler and ever so slightly faster. Swapping out the CPU is still my top priority. While the GTX 460 is the better card, I don't think it will offer much improvement over her current GTX 550ti with the CPU bottleneck in place, especially at her resolution.
so i'm hoping that i can get some opinions from you intelligent people in here.
situation :
friend says that his system is now reporting low chassis fan speed when it was fine a few days ago.
original fan speed was reported to be roughly 770rpms, and is now being reported as 570 *giving off a fan speed warning* ...600rpm is the set limit before warning.
he made sure to check for any dust build up, btw. seemed to be fine.
he has an Asus p8z77-v lk motherboard with Qfan enabled. he says that the Standard setting gives him 570rpms, and the Turbo setting gives him 590rpms.
he bought a new fan rated for 950rpms, put it in there, and gets the same results. (new fan is Kingwin 120 mm CFBL-012LB).
so i find that somewhat interesting. any ideas?
i mean, he could try a bios update maybe ...and that might help, but if the fan was reporting higher speeds a few days ago, and is reporting slower today ...something must be up, no?
situation :
friend says that his system is now reporting low chassis fan speed when it was fine a few days ago.
original fan speed was reported to be roughly 770rpms, and is now being reported as 570 *giving off a fan speed warning* ...600rpm is the set limit before warning.
he made sure to check for any dust build up, btw. seemed to be fine.
he has an Asus p8z77-v lk motherboard with Qfan enabled. he says that the Standard setting gives him 570rpms, and the Turbo setting gives him 590rpms.
he bought a new fan rated for 950rpms, put it in there, and gets the same results. (new fan is Kingwin 120 mm CFBL-012LB).
so i find that somewhat interesting. any ideas?
i mean, he could try a bios update maybe ...and that might help, but if the fan was reporting higher speeds a few days ago, and is reporting slower today ...something must be up, no?
sorijealut
Member
I may have the same problem as your friend!!so i'm hoping that i can get some opinions from you intelligent people in here.
situation :
friend says that his system is now reporting low chassis fan speed when it was fine a few days ago.
original fan speed was reported to be roughly 770rpms, and is now being reported as 570 *giving off a fan speed warning* ...600rpm is the set limit before warning.
he made sure to check for any dust build up, btw. seemed to be fine.
he has an Asus p8z77-v lk motherboard with Qfan enabled. he says that the Standard setting gives him 570rpms, and the Turbo setting gives him 590rpms.
he bought a new fan rated for 950rpms, put it in there, and gets the same results. (new fan is Kingwin 120 mm CFBL-012LB).
so i find that somewhat interesting. any ideas?
i mean, he could try a bios update maybe ...and that might help, but if the fan was reporting higher speeds a few days ago, and is reporting slower today ...something must be up, no?
I also have the P8Z77-V LK motherboard, and I get blinking red notification that the RPM is dropping too low (under 600). Not sure what is wrong, since it was the first thing I noticed when I booted up my computer.
AScotAbroad
Member
Hey fellow comfy-couch gamers,
So I finally got my (long) HDMI cable to connect my PC to the TV at the other side of the room, and I was wondering what the best setup was in terms of display options on the PC side. I mostly want to use Steam Big Picture on the TV, so should I just set the TV to duplicate the monitor display?
Right now it's a 2nd display and extends onto it, which plays merry hell with my mouse pointer (trying to use Windows 8 on it is a nightmare as my pointer now travels further than the bottom-right corner which you need to point at for a second or two to shutdown the PC).
I've also got a smaller 2nd monitor that I plan to hook up to extend the desktop (probably attempt to have a dedicated Metro screen), if that makes any difference.
Thanks!
So I finally got my (long) HDMI cable to connect my PC to the TV at the other side of the room, and I was wondering what the best setup was in terms of display options on the PC side. I mostly want to use Steam Big Picture on the TV, so should I just set the TV to duplicate the monitor display?
Right now it's a 2nd display and extends onto it, which plays merry hell with my mouse pointer (trying to use Windows 8 on it is a nightmare as my pointer now travels further than the bottom-right corner which you need to point at for a second or two to shutdown the PC).
I've also got a smaller 2nd monitor that I plan to hook up to extend the desktop (probably attempt to have a dedicated Metro screen), if that makes any difference.
Thanks!
Here's a website with a few.
I think a lot of them are at the mercy of BIOS/motherboard compatibility with USB flash drives, particularly with USB 3.0.
LiquidMetal14
hide your water-based mammals
When!?
I will get that for sure if it's out before mid Feb.
That's more than good enough for your needs.
Hey guys, I am wondering about these two GPUs www.newegg.ca/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16814125441 and www.newegg.ca/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16814125450
Gigabyte 660ti. Just wondering if there is any real advantage to getting the 3GB card over the 2GB considering the price difference.
Gigabyte 660ti. Just wondering if there is any real advantage to getting the 3GB card over the 2GB considering the price difference.
Anton668
Member
cant find anything concrete, but I swear I read somewhere mid to late Feb
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