yn-neko hates a cat
Banned
Anyone even interested in the AMD Suplex?
Couldn't unlock my Sapphire Dirt3 6950. Boo.![]()
Amazon Review said:I had no issues unlocking to the 6970 bios. This card has a switch to select which bios you want to use. You do not need to flash the bios on the card. You do need to completely remove all AMD/ATI graphics drivers before moving the switch to 6970, then re-install the drivers clean.
120hz Samsung monitors? I need a link asap.
Added some bias lighting and cleaned up some. Everything is coming together nicely
On phone at the moment, but I'll comment on this after dinner (around 6:30 PST). Lots of ideas to throw at you since its a themed build.what do you guys think about this build? (I'm going for a Red/White/Black theme)
Its going to be my new Gaming PC.... staying under $2500 is the goal here.
S23A700D or S23A950D if you want a pretty stand and both Dual Link DVI AND Displayport options.Alright, goddamnit. I give up. I'm gonna get onemofmtose 23in Samsung 120hz monitors.. The only question now is which one.
Epic. Needs a Ducky Shine II nowAdded some bias lighting and cleaned up some. Everything is coming together nicely
So guys...lol don't kill me for what I have to ask you. I know this is a pc thread so don't take my reply as a transgression.
I want a PC, not for gaming. I wanted to make a pc with the following:
- Low maintenance (Yes I utterly hate having to clean out my current pc)
- Small form factor
- Low Heat (my current pc heats my room which I find very annoying)
- Low Noise
- Powerful Enough
Apple announced their new mac-mini today, and I think that's exactly what I'm looking for. I'm not really and apple enthusiast I didn't even knew what a mac-mini was until I saw it today on their event. I careless about OSX though. I believe that the $599 Mac-mini is pretty much the pc that I wanted to make (except for the lack of a SSD drive).
My questions are:
1. Can I still make something comparable for cheaper?
2. Will I be able to run Linux and Windows? Efficiently?
3. Will I have problem with 64 bits Linux/Windows?
3. Is it powerful enough to last 5 years at least?
4. Is there any other hidden-fee that I'm not considering?
The first question is kind of tricky, I mean i know I'm probably able to make something cheaper but the thing is by how much and would it beat the size of that thing? That's where I'm doubtful. So this is it enlighten me please, If I get this ill probably take it the 6 months plan to pay it I just want to be sure is not a mistake to get it. I presume I would be able to run Windows and Linux. If I cant run Linux (at least) I would drop it. I won't take OSX and I careless about windows. I want it to last 5 years (minimum), excluding the possible upgrades I can do to the ram do you guys think perhaps it's dual-core would become outdated too soon? (application/programs wise).
It's possible but not likely. Try removing the Radeon and running the computer by plugging in the monitor to the onboard VGA port.Could the problem be that my PSU isn't strong enough? It's a Corsair 430w. I have an i-5 CPU and a Radeon 6870.
So guys...lol don't kill me for what I have to ask you. I know this is a pc thread so don't take my reply as a transgression.
I want a PC, not for gaming. I wanted to make a pc with the following:
- Low maintenance (Yes I utterly hate having to clean out my current pc)
- Small form factor
- Low Heat (my current pc heats my room which I find very annoying)
- Low Noise
- Powerful Enough
Apple announced their new mac-mini today, and I think that's exactly what I'm looking for. I'm not really an apple enthusiast, I didn't even knew what a mac-mini was until I saw it today on their event. I believe that the $599 Mac-mini is pretty much the pc that I wanted to make (except for the lack of a SSD drive).
My questions are:
1. Can I still make something comparable for cheaper?
2. Will I be able to run Linux and Windows? Efficiently?
3. Will I have problem with 64 bits Linux/Windows?
3. Is it powerful enough to last 5 years at least?
4. Is there any other hidden-fee that I'm not considering?
The first question is kind of tricky, I know I'm probably able to make something cheaper but: by how much? and would it beat the size of that thing? That's where I'm doubtful. So this is it enlighten me please, If I get this ill probably take it the 6 months plan to pay it, I want to be sure I'm not making a mistake. If I can't run Linux (at least) I would drop it. I won't take OSX and I careless about windows. I want it to last 5 years (minimum), excluding the possible upgrades I can do to the ram, do you guys think perhaps it's dual-core would become outdated too soon? (application/programs wise).
I have this mobo: http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16813130239
And I'm looking at this memory: http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16820231560
I see the mobo has a max supported memory of 16GB, but I was wondering if it'll be a problem that the 16GB is occupying 2 of the 4 slots, or does that not make a difference? I currently have 4 sticks of this: http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16820231303
It NEEDS to be plugged in for it to work. Have you tried powering the computer without the videocard?OK, so when I remove the 4-pin from the ATX12V slot, the fans and everything start to spin then everything stops. When I plug it in, nothing happens at all when I try to power on.
Any help? I ask because I don't know how a mobo limits the max supported RAM. Would I need to use 4 sticks of 4GB or is using 2x8GB fine? I'd prefer the later for expandability moving forward, but I'm not sure if it'll be a problem.
It NEEDS to be plugged in for it to work. Have you tried powering the computer without the videocard?
As stated several times through this thread, if you're doing a gaming build you should stay with LGA1155 and Z77 chipset (with either an i5 3570K or i7 3770k). Going LGA1156 or 2011 will only make you spend a crapload of extra money for almost neglige benefits. Same goes for RAM speeds, unless you're going to use the PC for hardcore benchmarking anything above 1600 is diminishing returns. Put that extra money in something like a 680 instead.
I must have missed that part, I apologize. I originally had the SABERTOOTH Z77 as my mobo but was told to "jump to a 2011 platform instead of 1155 which will be ending this year as this year ivy bridge is the last supporting cpu." also for better overclockability :-/
Not true!You are not going to be overclocking with the 3820, it has a locked multi.
I'm waiting on AMD FM2 ITX motherboards. That way, you'll have decent graphics performance without needing a videocard. Sounds right up your alley as well. I'd expect them to be out in a few weeks. Take a gander at Lian Li, Silverstone, Abee, and Origen ITX cases. They come fairly small, and the built in PSU's (200W+) should be able to handle an A10 processor no problem.So guys...lol don't kill me for what I have to ask you. I know this is a pc thread so don't take my reply as a transgression.
I want a PC, not for gaming. I wanted to make a pc with the following:
Benefits of X79/3820 over Z77/3770K would be that there are IvyBridge-E processors coming out Q3 of 2013 that should be pretty awesome, and will work as drop-in upgrades. You also get quad-channel memory, which is beneficial in multimedia work. The other benefit is that the processors are no-nonsense processors. There's no GPU on die, and less of a concern for power savings. This means ultimately a processor that can clock quite a bit higher than the 3770K. It takes quite a bit more work to get it there, I think I spent almost a whole day nailing down my 3820 overclock.what do you guys think about this build? (I'm going for a Red/White/Black theme)
Its going to be my new Gaming PC.... staying under $2500 is the goal here.
PCPartPicker part list / Price breakdown by merchant / Benchmarks
CPU: Intel Core i7-3820 3.6GHz Quad-Core Processor ($229.99 @ Microcenter)
CPU Cooler: Corsair H100 92.0 CFM Liquid CPU Cooler ($99.99 @ Newegg)
Motherboard: Asus Rampage IV Formula ATX LGA2011 Motherboard ($369.99 @ Newegg)
Memory: Corsair Dominator Platinum 16GB (4 x 4GB) DDR3-2133 Memory ($239.99 @ Newegg)
Storage: Samsung 840 Series 250GB 2.5" Solid State Disk ($199.99 @ Amazon)
Video Card: EVGA GeForce GTX 670 4GB Video Card ($424.86 @ NCIX US)
Case: Corsair 600T White Graphite ATX Mid Tower Case ($148.15 @ Mac Connection)
Power Supply: OCZ ZX 850W 80 PLUS Gold Certified ATX12V / EPS12V Power Supply ($139.99 @ NCIX US)
Total: $1852.95
(Prices include shipping, taxes, and discounts when available.)
You will want a larger mechanical HDD for storage along with the SSD. One 256GB drive alone will fill up very quickly once you start installing software, games, throw in some media...
And you probably want to get a better GPU. With a $1200 budget there's no reason you shouldn't be able to fit at least a 7950 in there. Edit: I see that's a 660 Ti, I thought it was a regular 660. Still better off with a 7950 unless you just really prefer an NVidia card for whatever reason.
Not sure about the Antec Basiq PSU (might be okay, I really have no idea) or whether or not it's worth it to get 16GB of RAM (I'd say not, but it doesn't hurt if it fits in the budget).
Not true!
3820s overclock the good old fashioned way through BCLK. Mine is currently running at 4.95 GHz. The multiplier goes to a max of 43, so even if you don't want to mess with BCLK you can set it to 4.3GHz and forget it like the lazy sandy bridge way.
I changed my Gigabyte 460 GTX lowest fan % by editing the bios with Nibitor.
Here's a guide detailing how to use it:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-E33VThHYl8
The latest version seems to be 6.0.6.
This will void your warranty though for me it was worth it.
My Asus 670 DCU is far quieter than that card ever was even after the bios edit. If you do change cards I'd definitely recommend the Asus. Quietest graphics card I've ever owned -- even quieter than the card I slapped an Accelero S1 on years ago.
My new room is still dusty as hell, I hope the fans don't clutter up so fast.
Thanks for the guide, I'll think on that.
This is my new PC btw - it'S a big difference to everything I had before, hard to believe its much more powerful than my last with it beeing so much smaller and quieter.
My new room is still dusty as hell, I hope the fans don't clutter up so fast.
Mind posting your parts list? Would love something like that instead of my behemoth Fractal R3...
Sure:
Storage: 1 x SSD 128GB Samsung 830 Basic Series 2.5" / 1 x Samsung HD154UI 1.5 TB 3.5"
Video Card: 1 x Gigabyte GeForce GTX 660 OC
CPU: Intel Core-i5 2400 @3.1 Ghz
Memory: 2x 4GB DDR3-1600 G.SKill
Motherboard: ASRock H67M-ITX/HT
Case: SilverStone Sugo SG06 USB 3.0 black
Power Supply: 300W SFX12V (came with the case)
I got the CPU and Mainboard from a friend, who wanted to upgrade to Ivy Bridge. The case is one of the few SFF cases (I could find available and had a good price) that don't have a front grid.
If you want a very quiet solution without any hassle I'd recommend the ASUS GTX660-DC2O-2GD5 though. I can't get my Gigabyte below 40% Fan Speed without loosing the warranty.
All in all, I paid 580 EUR for everything.
That's an insane price for that build! Like I said, mine is in a huge case and the only thing that's better is my proc (2500k @4.5 GHz). My GPU is a 560Ti. It cost around 7600 SEK (~900€and I built it in december. Damn how time (and performance/€
flies!
edit: although I guess yours would've been like 8-900€ if you had paid retail for the CPU/mobo.
I'm waiting on AMD FM2 ITX motherboards. That way, you'll have decent graphics performance without needing a videocard. Sounds right up your alley as well. I'd expect them to be out in a few weeks. Take a gander at Lian Li, Silverstone, Abee, and Origen ITX cases. They come fairly small, and the built in PSU's (200W+) should be able to handle an A10 processor no problem.
If you don't mind going slightly larger, you can take a look at the SFF Guide from the OP. The 'Budget' boards listed there will suit what you are after no problem. You can even drop the graphics card altogether or get a low profile one if you want to drop the price more.
Benefits of X79/3820 over Z77/3770K would be that there are IvyBridge-E processors coming out Q3 of 2013 that should be pretty awesome, and will work as drop-in upgrades. You also get quad-channel memory, which is beneficial in multimedia work. The other benefit is that the processors are no-nonsense processors. There's no GPU on die, and less of a concern for power savings. This means ultimately a processor that can clock quite a bit higher than the 3770K. It takes quite a bit more work to get it there, I think I spent almost a whole day nailing down my 3820 overclock.
The benefits of Z77/3770K over X79 is guaranteed PCI-E 3.0 support, which means no video card bottlenecking down the line. That's not really an issue right now, but it might become so two generations away when you want to upgrade. That alone pretty much makes it the no-brainer. There are some X79 motherboards that unlock to PCI-E 3.0, but it's basically a crapshoot, and you need to flash your motheboard in order for it to work.
If you really want to stick with a theme on the build, I'd suggest looking at the Corsair AX750 for a powersupply (you did say you were thinking about multiple cards down the line), as you can buy uni-sleeved cables that complete that look. On top of all of that, it's a rebadged Seasonic X750, which outside of Seasonic's platinum line, is the most reliable and well built powersupply you can buy.
In my build here, you can see that the white power cords are what I'm talking about - http://i.imgur.com/rfBnC.jpg. They come in white, black, red, and blue.
The 600T is a bust, IMO. Sure, it will get the job done and look pretty, but it has a number of faults that make me place it lower than a number of $80-100 cases out there. If you want a white case, check out the Fractal Define R4, CM Storm Stryker, BitFenix Shinobi XL, NZXT Switch 810, and the CM 690II Black and White Edition (only available through the CoolerMaster store, last I checked). They're killer cases. Even the 500R is a better case than the 600T. I could go by each feature that I dislike on the 600T (have had two of them), but ultimately they all add up to it being too noisy and having a really bad airflow design. If you don't mind black, check out the Fractal Arc Midi and Lian Li PC-7HX.
If you want it to run cool and quiet, you'll also want to look at some aftermarket fans. The Corsair SP (for radiators/heatsinks) and AF (case fans) are spectacular, and come with little colored rings that you can change out to perfectly fit your build. You will most definitely at least want to change out the stock fans on the H100 with these. My most favorite air cooled build I've seen has them in it.
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For graphics cards, there's almost zero reason to buy EVGA cards this generation unless you plan on putting waterblocks on them. They are hot and noisy, more than twice as loud (10dB) as the Gigabyte and ASUS cards. Since you want red and black, the ASUS DCII 670 or Matrix 7970 would be a great pick.
The nice motherboards like the ASUS Maximus/Rampage, Gigabyte G1/UP7/UD7, and ASRock OC Edition (EVGA and MSI omitted on purpose here) are made for folks who will really want to push their hardware to the limits. If you don't plan on tinkering/benching, there's really no point in going with one outside of looks, which I can understand. With Z77 the only board out there that actually does have the capability to push processors well beyond their capabilities (without LN2/phase change) is the Gigabyte UP7. Everything else is eye candy. With this in mind, I'd suggest looking at the Gigabyte UP4, ASRock Extreme 6, ASRock Professional, and the EVGA Z77 FTW.
Also, get the 1866 memory. There's almost no benefit to the 2133, and it costs quite a bit more.
If you want to take a risk with X79, then we can talk further about that if you'd like.
Does it make a consistent beeping noise? Also, is the videocard still plugged in?I got it to boot. Everything is running from what I can tell. And now for some reason, I can't get the monitor to come on. The light on the monitor is orange. It's hooked up to the back of the tower. When I pull it out, it turns blue, says no signal, and goes orange again.
If you want it to run cool and quiet, you'll also want to look at some aftermarket fans. The Corsair SP (for radiators/heatsinks) and AF (case fans) are spectacular, and come with little colored rings that you can change out to perfectly fit your build. You will most definitely at least want to change out the stock fans on the H100 with these. My most favorite air cooled build I've seen has them in it.
Positive.Are you sure it is not Corsair SP for case fans and AF for radiators/heatsinks ?
Whoah, bad reviews of the R4? Looks like full eggs on each one to me... I love the crap out of mine too.
The heatsink is a Prolimatech Megahalems Back in Black Edition.
800D is really long in the tooth, and designed around watercooling (like full on, not the all in one units) despite having less capability than a lot of new cases built for watercooling. Supposed to be a replacement out for it in the next 6 months or so.
what heat sink fan is that in your previous post (the response to my build), I thought about water-cooling but I'm deciding against it now.
I looked at the fractal defin r4 and it got some pretty bad reviews on newegg. I will check out the cases in a minute. Whats your opinion on the corsair 800D case?
So I bought one of these bad boys:
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OCZ Revodrive 3 120GB PCIe SSD
It's fucking quick when you're up and running in Windows.
However, due to it being PCIe, there is a driver load process on startup that makes the boot process approximately 10 seconds slower overall compared to my old SSD. Totally worth it for the performance gain though.
Can PC-GAF tell me if this build is okay? It's my first time building a desktop, so suggestions/criticisms are welcome.
http://pcpartpicker.com/p/lhK4
P.S. I wasn't sure about the monitor or keyboard, so if someone has a better suggestion than what I have picked out, it would be much appreciated.
Can PC-GAF tell me if this build is okay? It's my first time building a desktop, so suggestions/criticisms are welcome.
http://pcpartpicker.com/p/lhK4
P.S. I wasn't sure about the monitor or keyboard, so if someone has a better suggestion than what I have picked out, it would be much appreciated.
That looks great, but as a personal preference I'd put the sound board out unless you have a good sound equipment and replace the 4x4GB RAM with just 2x4GB unless you're going to do heavy multimedia work. I have no idea about monitors so somebody else would have to help you. And about the keyboard, as long as it "works" it's a very personal preference.
I might have missed an earlier post of yours but do you really need 16GB of RAM?
Alright, thanks guys!
The RAM is a bit of an overkill, I admit, but I wasn't exactly sure how much I would need. At least my build is a little cheaper now.