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"I need a New PC!" 2012 Thread. Ivy, SSDs, and reading the OP. [Part 2]

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mkenyon

Banned
Just realized the Arc Midi is on sale for $70.00 with $5 shipping. If you are looking for a new case, get that now. On Newegg.
 
Wow, I did not know that.

So the BLCK is not as sensitive as the normal Sandy Bridge?

SB-E has a special ratio method, with settings of 1.25x, 1.66x, and 2.5x. If I'm correct, Haswell will get this too, if not traditional full-on BCLK tweakage.

I'm at a crisis here. Want to upgrade so bad, but am also tempted by Haswell.
 

mkenyon

Banned
SB-E has a special ratio method, with settings of 1.25x, 1.66x, and 2.5x. If I'm correct, Haswell will get this too, if not traditional full-on BCLK tweakage.

I'm at a crisis here. Want to upgrade so bad, but am also tempted by Haswell.
You can do it in steppings of 1 at a time, in addition to the 'gear ratio' you are talking about. You cab with Sandy too, its just that the IMC can't handle it and immediately shits out.
in SB-E, BCLK overclocking will disable the power saving downclock features.
Even running 24/7, we are talking about less than a halogen bulb here.
 

Salsa

Member
God dammit the order for the ASUS DCIIs still hasnt gone through (basically RMA confirmed they'll change it, but they still need to import the card I want since they were out of stock locally). Been without my 670 for what feels like a month now :(

I swear to god if the DCII with it's whole solid choke business has louder coil whine than the EVGA FTW I was ussing imma flip my shit, cause I doubt i'll be going through this process again
 

SoulClap

Member
Whoah, bad reviews of the R4? Looks like full eggs on each one to me... I love the crap out of mine too.

Do you think it's worth upgrading from an R3 to an R4? I figure two 140mm fans will be quieter than the three 120mm fans I use now and the ability to remove the top hard drive cage would lead to better airflow if using a non reference graphics card.
 

mkenyon

Banned
Nah. Not all 140mm fans are quieter than 120s either. The fractal 140s are definitely louder than 120 Spectre Pros.

The biggest difference, other than modular HDD bays is that it is wider allowing for way easier cable management. That issue is why I was never huge on the R3.

If that's worth it to you, then by all means. That money would be better spent on some nice fans though, IMO.
 
so back to that pic with the black and red theme, how are the fans attached to this?

20033_01_prolimatech_s_megahalems_is_back_in_black.jpg


also, the build I was attempting to copy (with some tweaks of course) was this
3YLDy.jpg


I really like the clean look and the black/red but I will probably change some things based on what you've suggested mkenyon

just did a quick search and I can't find the prolimatech megahalems black at all :(
 

GeoNeo

I disagree.
in SB-E, BCLK overclocking will disable the power saving downclock features.

Yes 125 strap+ and it disables power saving reduction of vcore.

If one wants to overclock a 3820 yet still want the power saving to drop the vcore when under little load you have to set bclk to around 105 set multi to 43 and setup your offset value. So, looking at 4.5GHz with all power saving features working as they should. (3820 owner could prob push the bclk further as well)

Also, I highly recommend anyone thinking of buying msi 2011 mb's to avoid them due to no offset overclocking so silly of msi to not enable this feature.


<3 my 3930k 2011 setup. :D so fun to overclock.
 

mkenyon

Banned
so back to that pic with the black and red theme, how are the fans attached to this?

I really like the clean look and the black/red but I will probably change some things based on what you've suggested mkenyon

just did a quick search and I can't find the prolimatech megahalems black at all :(
Fan clips like all the tower CPU coolers.

It was a limited run, so you'd have to snipe a used one.
 

mkenyon

Banned
Took longer than expected. Only 2 of 3 done. First one took an hour or so because I had to trim the thermal pads to size. Next one only took about 20 mins.

I'm leaving for vacation tomorrow (anniversary) so I think I am going to hold off until Monday. Need to get some extra work done tonight so I don't leave with stuff on my plate. That will also mean my Supremacy block will arrive by then too. Gotta match!
 

mkenyon

Banned
well these seem like the next best thing
TPC 812 is a dark grey. Titan Fenrir TTC-NK85TZ/CS is red and black. Thermaltake Frio had red accents. Xigmatek Dark Knight is black. Tuniq Tower 120 is black and dark grey.


*edit* King of double posts lately. Apologies.
 

LCGeek

formerly sane
Was hoping to make it another year before I had to replace my pc but C2D 4600 setup just took a dump and needs to be replaced. In my case only I wish to get a new mobo, ram, and cpu the rest can be transplanted. Max I'm looking to spend is about 500 for all 3 parts.
 

kennah

Member
Was hoping to make it another year before I had to replace my pc but C2D 4600 setup just took a dump and needs to be replaced. In my case only I wish to get a new mobo, ram, and cpu the rest can be transplanted. Max I'm looking to spend is about 500 for all 3 parts.

3570K Cpu
Your favourite Z77 motherboard
8gigs of the Samsung RAM.

Done :)
 

Sullichin

Member
So, I re-ran that Windows Experience bullshit for some reason, and the last category (disk writing speed) dropped from 7.9 to like 5.9. It's a Crucial SSD. Same result after restarting.

is this just a fluke or a sign something is wrong with my SSD? Everything seems to be working fine as far as I can tell. I did however upgrade to W7SP1 recently, maybe that messed something up.
 

t-ramp

Member
So, I re-ran that Windows Experience bullshit for some reason, and the last category (disk writing speed) dropped from 7.9 to like 5.9. It's a Crucial SSD. Same result after restarting.

is this just a fluke or a sign something is wrong with my SSD? Everything seems to be working fine as far as I can tell. I did however upgrade to W7SP1 recently, maybe that messed something up.
If you have a mechanical drive as well that might cause the drop in your WEI. It's nothing to worry about in any case.
 

SoulClap

Member
Nah. Not all 140mm fans are quieter than 120s either. The fractal 140s are definitely louder than 120 Spectre Pros.

The biggest difference, other than modular HDD bays is that it is wider allowing for way easier cable management. That issue is why I was never huge on the R3.

If that's worth it to you, then by all means. That money would be better spent on some nice fans though, IMO.

Right now I have a Spectro Pro for exhaust and a Nexus D12SL-12 in the front and bottom of the R3. I hope that's enough cooling for an overclocked i5 (4.5Ghz) and 680. If I were to get an R4 I'd look at replacing the stock fans in the front and rear with TY-140's or TY-150's. I'm guessing the difference in airflow is not really significant between the two setups.
 

mkenyon

Banned
Right now I have a Spectro Pro for exhaust and a Nexus D12SL-12 in the front and bottom of the R3. I hope that's enough cooling for an overclocked i5 (4.5Ghz) and 680. If I were to get an R4 I'd look at replacing the stock fans in the front and rear with TY-140's or TY-150's. I'm guessing the difference in airflow is not really significant between the two setups.
Yeah, nothing huge. That should be ample cooling. Are you having temp issues?
It stands to reason then that Haswell will get both.
Not necessarily. Haswell is the 'consumer' grade release, with socket 2011 being the 'enthusaist' release. Ivy-E isn't supposed to be out until Q3 2013.

I'm not saying it won't, but just because SandyBridge-E has good internal memory controllers doesn't mean that Haswell will, especially when it's aimed at average consumers.
So, I re-ran that Windows Experience bullshit for some reason, and the last category (disk writing speed) dropped from 7.9 to like 5.9. It's a Crucial SSD. Same result after restarting.

is this just a fluke or a sign something is wrong with my SSD? Everything seems to be working fine as far as I can tell. I did however upgrade to W7SP1 recently, maybe that messed something up.
If you have a standard HDD in there, it will tank your score. Run CrystalDiskMark if you want to see how your SSD is doing.
 

Irobot82

Member
If anyone is interested Office Depot has Windows 8 Pro Full Edition for $69.99. I'd post the link but I don't think I am allowed yet.
 
I've got a Gigabyte GTX 680 OC coming my way in about a week, should I bother with custom cooling for it? I don't plan on overclocking it.
 

gurudyne

Member
Just realized the Arc Midi is on sale for $70.00 with $5 shipping. If you are looking for a new case, get that now. On Newegg.

Interesting. Definitely tempted to buy, but I want to know if anyone has any recommendations for this build before I do:

Current Specs: Laughable/irrelevant
Budget/Country: Aiming at 1500-1600 (for total build, monitor, OS and all). USA
Main Use: Gaming (5), Emulation (PS2/Wii) (4), HD Streaming (3), General Usage (Word, Web, 1080p playback) (4)
Monitor Resolution: 1920x1080p. Monitor's already purchased--going to sell it to a family member later on in the year when I upgrade to a TV/monitor of my choosing later on. Also 1920x1080p (most likely). I want to keep games at 60FPS. 120 is pointless as I don't see myself buying 120Hz for at least a couple of years.
Games it Needs to Play: DE:HR, Crysis, New Vegas, Witcher 2, GTA with HiRes and iCEnhancer, BioShock Infinite, GTA V.... I want to have a graphical beast of a machine. Also something that will last well into the next generation.
Reuse: No parts to reuse, all new.
When will you build?: I can definitely wait for Black Friday/Monday sales. Sometime in late November.
Will you be overclocking?: Yes


Specs:
CPU: Intel i5 3570K
Cooler: Cooler Master Hyper 212 EVO 82.9 CFM Sleeve Bearing
Video Card: MSI Twin Frozr 680 GTX
MoBo: Asus P8Z77-V LK ATX LGA1155
PSU: Cooler Master GX 750W 80 PLUS Bronze Certified ATX12V
Memory: Corsair XMS3 8GB (2 x 4GB) DDR3-1600 Memory**
Storage: Crucial M4 256 GB SSD** and
Samsung Spinpoint F3 1TB 3.5" 7200RPM Internal Hard Drive
Case: Arc Midi
Optical: Lite-On IHBS112-04 Blu-Ray/DVD/CD Writer**
OS: Windows 7 Home**
Mouse & Keyboard: Low End (Don't have the models yet; using cheap placeholders on the list below)

http://pcpartpicker.com/p/llaF

** = Already purchased. (There were sales! Things were cheap! I was weak.)

Mainly just the Enthusiast build with some tweaks. I'm skeptical of the HDD--NewEgg's reviews of even the better HDDs aren't exactly glowing these days.

On the GPU, I'm okay with dropping down to 670 if the output can get me what I outlined in the Games I Need to Play section, but I'm favoring longevity over price at the moment. If the 680 can squeeze out more play over time for $50 more, I'm okay with that. But I'm new at this, so I'm open to arguments for or against.

Also, should I purchase additional 140mm fans for the case? Or a wire rack for the computer to stand on for ventilation? Really, any cooling tips you could provide would be appreciated, no matter how obvious.

Hope I outlined everything I needed to. Any suggestions?
 

Doel

Member
This thread is insanely comprehensive. As I read through it let me see if anyone wants to help me out.

Right now I have a Radeon HD 6950, an Intel Core i5 3450, and a Corsair GS500 power supply. I'd like recommendations for a Motherboard and a case. Right now...

Motherboard: I'm eyeing the ASRock Z77 Extreme4
Case: Don't know a lot yet, Sub-$100 preferably

No plans to overclock but who knows.

Also, Windows 7 or Windows 8?
 

SoulClap

Member
Yeah, nothing huge. That should be ample cooling. Are you having temp issues?

Nah it's just a little louder than I would like when idle and under load. I'm sure it's the reference 680 making all that noise. I was just curious if my current setup could handle a non reference card or if it'd be wiser to switch to an R4.
 

tetromibi

Neo Member
I just placed my order. Hope this goes well...

Already have copy of windows, mouse, keyboard, and monitor. I wanted the larger power supply in case I decide to SLI 680's in the future.

Video: EVGA 04G-P4-3685-KR GeForce GTX 680 FTW Standard, w/Backplate 4GB 256-bit GDDR5 PCI Express 3.0 x16 HDCP Ready SLI Support Video Card

CPU: Intel Core i7-3770K Ivy Bridge 3.5GHz (3.9GHz Turbo) LGA 1155 77W Quad-Core Desktop Processor Intel HD Graphics 4000 BX80637I73770K

Motherboard: GIGABYTE GA-Z77X-UP5 TH LGA 1155 Intel Z77 HDMI SATA 6Gb/s USB 3.0 ATX Intel Motherboard

SSD: SAMSUNG 830 Series MZ-7PC256B/WW 2.5" 256GB SATA III MLC Internal Solid State Drive

Case: COOLER MASTER CM Storm Series Trooper (SGC-5000-KKN1) Black Steel / Plastic ATX Full Tower Computer Case

PSU: COOLER MASTER Silent Pro RS850-AMBAJ3-US 850W ATX12V v2.3 / EPS12V v2.92 SLI Ready 80 PLUS BRONZE Certified Modular Active PFC Power Supply

RAM: G.SKILL Ripjaws X Series 16GB (2 x 8GB) 240-Pin DDR3 SDRAM DDR3 1600 (PC3 12800) Desktop Memory Model F3-12800CL10D-16GBXL

BluRay: LG Black 14X BD-R 2X BD-RE 16X DVD+R 5X DVD-RAM 12X BD-ROM 4MB Cache SATA BDXL Blu-ray Burner,3D Play Back (WH14NS40) - OEM - OEM

CPU Cooler: COOLER MASTER Hyper 212 EVO RR-212E-20PK-R2 Continuous Direct Contact 120mm Sleeve CPU Cooler Compatible with latest Intel 2011/1366/1155 and AMD FM1/FM2/AM3+

Thermal Compound: Arctic Silver 5 High-Density Polysynthetic Silver Thermal Compound AS5-3.5G - OEM - OEM
 

Relix

he's Virgin Tight™
Damn, NewEgg shipped my replacement drive and got here in a day. Quick question, I am sure this will work but stil...

I will be making a full image of my HDD with CloneZilla, so I can clone the image to the 1TB drive I want to use as main drive. I shouldn't face any problems right? I know I will probably have to extend the partition size, but aside from that I shouldn't expect issues. Right?
 

RedSwirl

Junior Member
I came in here a few months ago asking about building a system for later this year and I think the time has come to start nailing down specific parts. If everything goes right I'd like to be able to get them before the end of 2012.

Basically, I want to build a gaming HTPC with a CPU/motherboard setup that can stay relevant for the next four years of gaming. I'll might upgrade the GPU and RAM sometime after the initial build depending on what happens. I would use it for games (presumably next gen console ports), video, and possibly ROMs.

My Current System:
Core 2 Quad Q6600 2.4GHz
HD 6850 1GB
3GB RAM

I've had this since 2007 and I think It'll last me through next spring gaming-wise but beyond that I don't know. I'm already afraid I might not be able to run Far Cry 3 and Dark Souls (CPU intensive and poorly-optimized).

What I think I know I need:
i5 2500k (I don't want to overclock)
Wi-Fi
CD/DVD RW drive (why do most store-bought computers have two drives these days?)
Bluetooth
Optical output (I don't know how standard that is)
10 USB ports (front and back combined)
Probably no monitor (this'll primarily be an HTPC)

What I'm not sure about:
GPU - I'm currently on an HD6850 (1GB) and I guess just moving that over is an option for the near future. With so many disadvantages I've had with AMD recently I'd ideally switch over to Nvidia but I'm not sure of 1) What would be a good but affordable improvement and 2) what will measure up to next gen console ports.
RAM - 8GB or 16? I guess I won't know until RAM requirements for next gen console ports start coming in. How expensive is it to upgrade RAM after the fact?
Blu-Ray Drive - How much do they cost? I'm not talking about burners, just drives. This would be purely for watching movies.
Hard Drive - I already have a 1TB HDD that I'll probably move over to the new system but I think I'll need a little more than that. I don't think I need an SSD so another TB or two would be good I guess. In addition to hundreds of GB of games I'd be hosting over 50GB of music and probably as much in video.
Windows 7 or 8? - I'm still using Vista 32bit right now so either would be a big upgrade I guess. I saw a thread a while ago about W8's initial effects on frame rates though. Stick with W7 until 8 hits at least SP1? The features of W8 don't seem all that useful for a desktop for me, but this'll be an HTPC so maybe they'll make more sense in that environment.

Budget:
I don't want to go over $1000 honestly but we'll see what happens. That's primarily why I'm not sure about the GPU. Keep in mind that I probably won't be buying a monitor since it'll be hooked up to a TV.
 

mkenyon

Banned
I've got a Gigabyte GTX 680 OC coming my way in about a week, should I bother with custom cooling for it? I don't plan on overclocking it.
Do you mean the one with three fans? That is custom cooling, and the best factory one available.
Nah it's just a little louder than I would like when idle and under load. I'm sure it's the reference 680 making all that noise. I was just curious if my current setup could handle a non reference card or if it'd be wiser to switch to an R4.
Fans will do that for you more than a new case. Fans are what make a case really. The best thing a case can offer is good mounting options for said fans. But yeah, your card is what is making that loud noise. This is the reason we've been trying to steer people away from EVGA Kepler cards.
This thread is insanely comprehensive. As I read through it let me see if anyone wants to help me out.

Right now I have a Radeon HD 6950, an Intel Core i5 3450, and a Corsair GS500 power supply. I'd like recommendations for a Motherboard and a case. Right now...

Motherboard: I'm eyeing the ASRock Z77 Extreme4
Case: Don't know a lot yet, Sub-$100 preferably

No plans to overclock but who knows.

Also, Windows 7 or Windows 8?
Buy this right now. That's pretty much top of the line when it comes to <$150 cases, and it's on mega sale right now.

Grab one of the motherboards from the OP. They're vetted based on reliability and price over anything. I'd actually point you towards an H77 board as you can't overclock the 3450. With Ivy/Sandy, you need a 'K' processor in order to overclock. It does mean that you are missing out on 60fps in a number of games (need that magic 4.0GHz) as well as the boost of about 30% increased performance, but there's no real point in spending extra money on a Z77 board when you won't be using what it offers.

I say Windows 7. Not because 8 is bad, but because 7 is just so f'n good. You're not missing out on anything. If you do want it later down the road, they're going to be offering direct download super inexpensive upgrade versions.
What I'm not sure about:
GPU - I'm currently on an HD6850 (1GB) and I guess just moving that over is an option for the near future. With so many disadvantages I've had with AMD recently I'd ideally switch over to Nvidia but I'm not sure of 1) What would be a good but affordable improvement and 2) what will measure up to next gen console ports.
RAM - 8GB or 16? I guess I won't know until RAM requirements for next gen console ports start coming in. How expensive is it to upgrade RAM after the fact?
Blu-Ray Drive - How much do they cost? I'm not talking about burners, just drives. This would be purely for watching movies.
Hard Drive - I already have a 1TB HDD that I'll probably move over to the new system but I think I'll need a little more than that. I don't think I need an SSD so another TB or two would be good I guess. In addition to hundreds of GB of games I'd be hosting over 50GB of music and probably as much in video.
Windows 7 or 8? - I'm still using Vista 32bit right now so either would be a big upgrade I guess. I saw a thread a while ago about W8's initial effects on frame rates though. Stick with W7 until 8 hits at least SP1? The features of W8 don't seem all that useful for a desktop for me, but this'll be an HTPC so maybe they'll make more sense in that environment.

Budget:
I don't want to go over $1000 honestly but we'll see what happens. That's primarily why I'm not sure about the GPU. Keep in mind that I probably won't be buying a monitor since it'll be hooked up to a TV.
First, check out the Small Form Factor Guide from the OP. Both the GAZ77-N and the P8Z77-I have optical out.

GPU - you're not going to get a good upgrade on this while staying under $1000 for the total build. A $1000 build nets you a 7850 which isn't a huge jump. You'd want to look at the 7950, 7970, or 670. I'd suggest you wait for the next gen unless you're willing to shell out extra for that performance earlier than you would get otherwise.

RAM - 8GB. 4GB is already plenty for even moderately intensive users. I honestly can't remember the last time I used more than 4GB. All else fails, you can upgrade it later. Buy the Samsung 30nm RAM.

Blu-Ray Drives - Look on Newegg.

Storage - You do need an SSD. With HDD prices the way they are, as well as the fact that there aren't any good drives out there reasonably priced, SSD's make more sense than ever. WD Blacks (loud) are mostly reliable and speedy. WD RE4's are reliable but will have their way with your wallet. Everything else is a crapshoot.

Windows 7 or 8? - As I said above, Windows 7 is reaaaaaaaaaly good. I've used everything from an Apple IIc, to Windows 3, to ME, to OSX, to Linux Debian. Windows 7 is the most amazing operating system for general usage and workstations that has ever existed. Once Windows 8 is given the clear, or you find some thing that just draws you to it, you'll be able to get a really inexpensive upgrade option.
120 is pointless as I don't see myself buying 120Hz for at least a couple of years.
Booooo! (I kid). I've said it many times, but for me: modems, discrete 3D cards, broadband internet, and 120hz all belong in the same sentence when talking about watershed moments in my gaming life.
Interesting. Definitely tempted to buy, but I want to know if anyone has any recommendations for this build before I do:

Specs:
CPU: Intel i5 3570K
Cooler: Cooler Master Hyper 212 EVO 82.9 CFM Sleeve Bearing
Video Card: MSI Twin Frozr 680 GTX
MoBo: Asus P8Z77-V LK ATX LGA1155
PSU: Cooler Master GX 750W 80 PLUS Bronze Certified ATX12V
Memory: Corsair XMS3 8GB (2 x 4GB) DDR3-1600 Memory**
Storage: Crucial M4 256 GB SSD** and
Samsung Spinpoint F3 1TB 3.5" 7200RPM Internal Hard Drive
Case: Arc Midi
Optical: Lite-On IHBS112-04 Blu-Ray/DVD/CD Writer**
OS: Windows 7 Home**
Mouse & Keyboard: Low End (Don't have the models yet; using cheap placeholders on the list below)

http://pcpartpicker.com/p/llaF

** = Already purchased. (There were sales! Things were cheap! I was weak.)

Mainly just the Enthusiast build with some tweaks. I'm skeptical of the HDD--NewEgg's reviews of even the better HDDs aren't exactly glowing these days.

On the GPU, I'm okay with dropping down to 670 if the output can get me what I outlined in the Games I Need to Play section, but I'm favoring longevity over price at the moment. If the 680 can squeeze out more play over time for $50 more, I'm okay with that. But I'm new at this, so I'm open to arguments for or against.

Also, should I purchase additional 140mm fans for the case? Or a wire rack for the computer to stand on for ventilation? Really, any cooling tips you could provide would be appreciated, no matter how obvious.

Hope I outlined everything I needed to. Any suggestions?
Swap the PSU for one of the ones in the OP. If this is still going on, buy it right now.
If you are in the market for a new good PSU, buy the Seasonic X750 on Newegg right now!

$100 w/ Promo Code EMCYTZT2397. That's like 40% off.
The 680 is unquestionably the better card, but if you're trying to save a bit here and there, that's the place to do it. It's not going to be the difference between being able to play one of your games at a certain frame rate. It's for the person that just has to have the best card out there.

The Spinpoint F3 on Newegg is a rebadged Seagate. If you see the words "By Seagate" on it, its no longer a Samsung drive.

Additional fans aren't really necessary. 140mm fans are pretty much garbage. What the companies do is design specific technology around 120mm and then just try to scale it up. You end up with noisier, less efficient fans. If you want, you can take a look at grabbing some extras. Spectre Pros are good at the $10 mark, Corsair AP/AF (AP for rads/heatsinks, AF for case fans) are good at $15, and Noiseblockers are good in the $20+ range.

Only other tip is to look at getting a DataVac. It's a tiny air compressor that makes cleaning your case a piece of cake. If it's easy, you'll be more likely to do it.
 

RedSwirl

Junior Member
First, check out the Small Form Factor Guide from the OP. Both the GAZ77-N and the P8Z77-I have optical out.

GPU - you're not going to get a good upgrade on this while staying under $1000 for the total build. A $1000 build nets you a 7850 which isn't a huge jump. You'd want to look at the 7950, 7970, or 670. I'd suggest you wait for the next gen unless you're willing to shell out extra for that performance earlier than you would get otherwise.

RAM - 8GB. 4GB is already plenty for even moderately intensive users. I honestly can't remember the last time I used more than 4GB. All else fails, you can upgrade it later. Buy the Samsung 30nm RAM.

Blu-Ray Drives - Look on Newegg.

Storage - You do need an SSD. With HDD prices the way they are, as well as the fact that there aren't any good drives out there reasonably priced, SSD's make more sense than ever. WD Blacks (loud) are mostly reliable and speedy. WD RE4's are reliable but will have their way with your wallet. Everything else is a crapshoot.

Windows 7 or 8? - As I said above, Windows 7 is reaaaaaaaaaly good. I've used everything from an Apple IIc, to Windows 3, to ME, to OSX, to Linux Debian. Windows 7 is the most amazing operating system for general usage and workstations that has ever existed. Once Windows 8 is given the clear, or you find some thing that just draws you to it, you'll be able to get a really inexpensive upgrade option.

So even if I get a new computer this year I should wait till next year to get a real nice upgrade on the GPU? In that case, what would be the Nvidia equivalent to a 7850?

My problem with storage is that as far as I know, most SSDs are still around 300GB. That plus my current 1TB drive get's me around the same amount of total storage I have now, which is already starting to run out.

Also, what about calculating what I'll need for a PSU?
 

mkenyon

Banned
So even if I get a new computer this year I should wait till next year to get a real nice upgrade on the GPU? In that case, what would be the Nvidia equivalent to a 7850?

My problem with storage is that as far as I know, most SSDs are still around 300GB. That plus my current 1TB drive get's me around the same amount of total storage I have now, which is already starting to run out.

Also, what about calculating what I'll need for a PSU?
There is no NVIDIA equivalent to the 7850. Maybe the 560 Ti 448 core, but that draws more power and therefore runs hotter. It's still an insignificant upgrade.

AMD basically has a stranglehold on the $300 and under market right now. The 660Ti and 660 aren't great picks for looking ahead 2 years due to limited VRAM and memory bandwidth.

As far as space goes, you just need to start behaving differently. How many of your installed games have you played in the last 3 months? 6 months? Year? I avoided SSD's for games for a long while because I grew attached to my RAID0 2TB array that had every single game I owned installed. I'm cozy as all hell with 128GB now. The computer I'm typing on has 44GB free on the OS drive (120 GB Force GT), and it has Tribes: Ascend, Guild Wars 2, Firefall, Dota 2, Skyrim + Mods, ARMA II/Day Z, Smite, Mechwarrior Online, Hawken, XCOM, Civ V, and some others. It's also my media work machine, so it has Photoshop and Sony Vegas. Plenty of room!

Considering that the 128 Crucial M4 and Samsung 830 often go on sale for ~$70, it's just too good of an option. The difference it makes in everyday usage is phenomenal. My wife gets visibly frustrated when she uses a computer without flash storage as the primary drive.

-----------------------------------------------------------------------------------

3 blocks installed! I think I'm going to hold off putting them in my computer so I actually wait for my matching CPU block.

 
Okay. So this should be my final build.

CPU: Intel Core i5-3570k
MOBO: ASUS P8Z77-V LK LGA 1155 Intel Z77
Storage: 1 x WD Blue 1TB HDD and 1 x Samsung 830 128GB SSD
RAM: GeIL EVO Veloce Series 8GB
Video: SAPPHIRE Radeon HD 7950 3GB
Sound: Vantec UGT-S100 7.1 (I just wanted another audio port back there)
PSU: Thermaltake Toughpower XT TPX-675M 675W ATX 12V v2.3 80 Plus Bronze
Cooler: COOLER MASTER Hyper 212 EVO
Case: Rosewill BLACKHAWK Gaming ATX Mid Tower
 

Fantomex

Member
There is no NVIDIA equivalent to the 7850. Maybe the 560 Ti 448 core, but that draws more power and therefore runs hotter. It's still an insignificant upgrade.

AMD basically has a stranglehold on the $300 and under market right now. The 660Ti and 660 aren't great picks for looking ahead 2 years due to limited VRAM and memory bandwidth.

As far as space goes, you just need to start behaving differently. How many of your installed games have you played in the last 3 months? 6 months? Year? I avoided SSD's for games for a long while because I grew attached to my RAID0 2TB array that had every single game I owned installed. I'm cozy as all hell with 128GB now. The computer I'm typing on has 44GB free on the OS drive (120 GB Force GT), and it has Tribes: Ascend, Guild Wars 2, Firefall, Dota 2, Skyrim + Mods, ARMA II/Day Z, Smite, Mechwarrior Online, Hawken, XCOM, Civ V, and some others. It's also my media work machine, so it has Photoshop and Sony Vegas. Plenty of room!

Considering that the 128 Crucial M4 and Samsung 830 often go on sale for ~$70, it's just too good of an option. The difference it makes in everyday usage is phenomenal. My wife gets visibly frustrated when she uses a computer without flash storage as the primary drive.

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3 blocks installed! I think I'm going to hold off putting them in my computer so I actually wait for my matching CPU block.

knA5C.gif
 

mkenyon

Banned
Couldn't wait to assemble it.

6Ju58h.jpg


4GB of VRAM and 3 GK104s for ultimate polygon crunching.

I'm so fucking stupid for this. This is like the glamour shot of a celebrity addicted to heroin. PSA of the day: don't get into enthusiast watercooling.

Can't wait to destroy some 3D Mark runs! Suicide run on the 3820 might be in order.
 
D

Deleted member 22576

Unconfirmed Member
That's pretty amazing. So it looks like you'll be able to see the coolant flowing through that top piece?


I am in love with my sff build, but it doesn't leave much room for internal aesthetics like that.
 

mkenyon

Banned
Yeah, the SFF is all about the exterior, which really, is looked at waaaaaaay more.

You know, there are some SFF builds you can watercool in. I submit the Silverstone PS07 as evidence.


And yeah, you'll be able to see the coolant through the acrylic. It'll look like this, but with my pastel green instead.

13Y02.jpg
 

RedSwirl

Junior Member
There is no NVIDIA equivalent to the 7850. Maybe the 560 Ti 448 core, but that draws more power and therefore runs hotter. It's still an insignificant upgrade.

AMD basically has a stranglehold on the $300 and under market right now. The 660Ti and 660 aren't great picks for looking ahead 2 years due to limited VRAM and memory bandwidth.

As far as space goes, you just need to start behaving differently. How many of your installed games have you played in the last 3 months? 6 months? Year? I avoided SSD's for games for a long while because I grew attached to my RAID0 2TB array that had every single game I owned installed. I'm cozy as all hell with 128GB now. The computer I'm typing on has 44GB free on the OS drive (120 GB Force GT), and it has Tribes: Ascend, Guild Wars 2, Firefall, Dota 2, Skyrim + Mods, ARMA II/Day Z, Smite, Mechwarrior Online, Hawken, XCOM, Civ V, and some others. It's also my media work machine, so it has Photoshop and Sony Vegas. Plenty of room!

Considering that the 128 Crucial M4 and Samsung 830 often go on sale for ~$70, it's just too good of an option. The difference it makes in everyday usage is phenomenal. My wife gets visibly frustrated when she uses a computer without flash storage as the primary drive.

-----------------------------------------------------------------------------------

3 blocks installed! I think I'm going to hold off putting them in my computer so I actually wait for my matching CPU block.

Just looked at the storage prices, and I don't know if I can pay that much for that little space, even if it is SSD. I don't know what prices used to be like, but what's wrong with paying $80 for a 1TB HDD?
 

Recon

Banned
Just ordered parts for my new PC. First build ever, and first new PC since 2007. Was this a decent order ?:

ASUS P8Z77-V LX LGA 1155 Intel Z77

Corsair Vengeance 8 GB ( 2 x 4 GB ) DDR3 1600 MHz (PC3 12800) 240-Pin DDR3 Memory

Thermaltake Commander MS-I Snow Edition

Intel Core i5-3570K Quad-Core Processor 3.4 GHz 4 Core LGA 1155

OCZ ModXStream Pro 600W Modular

Total: $516.

Was an unexpected order, since my 5 year old pc finally died, though unexpectedly. I also have a 560 Ti, but I had that previously.

Any recommendations on what SSD's to be looking out for? Hoping to snag a 256GB SSD during a black friday sale, or earlier for under $200.
 

Sipowicz

Banned
a few quick questions for uk gaffers

if I wanted to build a gaming rig that could max out pretty much any modern game at 720p how much would it cost me?

how about something that would run games well (60fps) at decent settings but be more cost effective
 
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