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"I need a New PC!" 2012 Thread. Ivy, SSDs, and reading the OP. [Part 2]

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I am thinking about getting a new GPU for Christmas.

Can anyone tell me what +% increase can I get going from 560Ti to 670GTX? To 660GTX?

Is it largely CPU/memory dependant? I can list my detailed specs when I get home tonight.
 

n0n44m

Member
I am thinking about getting a new GPU for Christmas.

Can anyone tell me what +% increase can I get going from 560Ti to 670GTX? To 660GTX?

Is it largely CPU/memory dependant? I can list my detailed specs when I get home tonight.

http://www.anandtech.com/bench/Product/547?vs=598

CPU performance can certainly influence framerates, but a fairly recent quad core CPU at around 4GHz should be enough to take full advantage of a 670
 

Trojita

Rapid Response Threadmaker
How good are the deals on newegg on Black Friday on Cyber Monday. A decent discount on computer building? Or do they usually not have discounts on what people would usually buy for a build?
 
How good are the deals on newegg on Black Friday on Cyber Monday. A decent discount on computer building? Or do they usually not have discounts on what people would usually buy for a build?
I've saved about close to $150 thus far.

AsRock Z77 Extrem4 motherboard $135->$105
Rosewill Green Series RG630-S12 power supply $90->$60
COOLER MASTER R4-L2S-122B-GP $12->$11
Rosewill CHALLENGER-U3 Black Gaming ATX Mid Tower Computer Case $70->$40
Seagate Barracuda ST31000524AS 1TB $110->$50

Just waiting for the best possible deals on a GPU and CPU at this point.
 

kakashi08

Member
I can't figure out what monitor to get.

I currently have a HPW2408H monitor. I'm giving my whole system to someone, and I'm going to need a new monitor. I was thinking of getting an 27inch monitor.

I don't really care about it having a webcam or 3d. those things are pointless to me. Just need a good 27 inch monitor that will have good color for movies/gaming.

So does anyone know a good 27 inch monitor for Gaming/Movies :) ??


Which one is better than the HPW2408H that I currently have for gaming/movies, and is the difference between these two that much better?
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16824236103
or
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16824236302
 
Yup! If you have a PC with Windows available the Windows 7 USB/DVD Download Tool is the easiest way to do it.

So, just to clarify the steps here (sorry I'm so dense about this, just want to verify everything):

  1. Download the tool (using my current W7 PC) you linked to an empty flash drive.
  2. Put my new PC together and then pop in the flash drive when I try to boot it up
  3. Select "USB Boot" (I don't know the exact term, but I should be able to find it in the bios/at start-up)
  4. Install W7 on the new PC using the USB boot disc
  5. Once the system is up and running to the desktop, insert my W8 upgrade disc
  6. Follow on-screen instructions.

The only question I have, is do I need to install the W8 develop's trial version that you linked a few posts back between steps 4 and 5? Again, I appreciate your help. I can build computers just fine, I've just never done any work-around like this for an OS installation before!
 


A 750W power supply might be a little bit to high, but then again your motherboard supports up to three PCI Express 3.0 x16 slots, so you might have SLi in mind with this build later on, which might make the 750W power supply OK.

And given the current recommendations on this forum I can already here people typing; "change the RAM to Samsung low profile DDR3-1600". But other then that the build looks solid.
 

scogoth

Member

The board does have lucidlogic mvp so you will be able to pipe the 680 video stream through the thunderbolt but keep in mind there will be higher input lag and a slight performance hit then directly attched to the GPU. I assume your trying to plug into your 27in imac as a monitor? IIRC you dont need a thundbolt board, the displayport off the 680 can plug directly into your imac (the thunderbolt connector is really a mini displayport with PCI data cleverly mixed in)

You might also want a 4GB 680 if your gaming at that higher resolution.
 

FinKL

Member
So, just to clarify the steps here (sorry I'm so dense about this, just want to verify everything):

  1. Download the tool (using my current W7 PC) you linked to an empty flash drive.
  2. Put my new PC together and then pop in the flash drive when I try to boot it up
  3. Select "USB Boot" (I don't know the exact term, but I should be able to find it in the bios/at start-up)
  4. Install W7 on the new PC using the USB boot disc
  5. Once the system is up and running to the desktop, insert my W8 upgrade disc
  6. Follow on-screen instructions.

The only question I have, is do I need to install the W8 develop's trial version that you linked a few posts back between steps 4 and 5? Again, I appreciate your help. I can build computers just fine, I've just never done any work-around like this for an OS installation before!

Are you familar with burning .isos or bootable CD/DVD's? It's very similar. What you will want to do is:
1) Download Bootable Win7 USB/DVD Tool
2) Download Windows 7 or 8 release Preview image .iso (4.8gb?) (Either 1 works since you will be upgrading to the latest version)
3) Create a bootable USB with the .iso (Note, keep in mind there are 32bit and 64bit versions, I forgot why, but I think I ran into an error where you could only "burn" 64bit bootable USB's with a 64 bit machine.)
4) Insert the bootable USB into you're new computer (make sure to set 1st boot drive as USB, followed by Hard Drive)
5) Install Windows using on screen instructions. (10-30mins)
6) When in the Windows Desktop, you can insert your Win8 Upgrade disk or find the upgrade link somewhere
 

Tobe

Member
i was cleaning my pc yesterday and bam now video card is not sending any signal :(. im gonna try my 5850 on another pc just to make sure. im having the worst luck, had my iphone stolen last week and now my video card is dead.
 
Are you familar with burning .isos or bootable CD/DVD's? It's very similar. What you will want to do is:

Various instructions.

Thanks for the info, I am should be able to get it going just fine based on your instructions. I won't have all my parts for another week or so at least, but I'll keep this bookmarked until then!

Unrelated, but what experiences have you guys found with overclocking Samsung's 30 nm DDR3 sticks, but sticking with the stock 1.35 V? I found one review suggestions 1866 MHz and 10-10-10-24 timings is doable, but I suspect the best way to figure this out would be to make some modest changes and then run MemTest to verify stability? I know each stick can act differently, so I'm guessing incremental overclocking with MemTesting along the way is the best method.
 

kakashi08

Member
I can't figure out what monitor to get.

I currently have a HPW2408H monitor. I'm giving my whole system to someone, and I'm going to need a new monitor. I was thinking of getting an 27inch monitor.

I don't really care about it having a webcam or 3d. those things are pointless to me. Just need a good 27 inch monitor that will have good color for movies/gaming.

So does anyone know a good 27 inch monitor for Gaming/Movies :) ??


Which one is better than the HPW2408H that I currently have for gaming/movies, and is the difference between these two that much better?
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16824236103
or
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16824236302

ANYONE?

and please can anyone recommend a good SSD, under $199. Space does not matter. I'll have a HDD for storage on the side.
 

FinKL

Member
Fan header question. I think I know the answer, but I want a second opinion.

My mobo only has 2 4-pin fan headers. I bought a closed loop CPU cooler that has a 4-pin fan connect (will connect to mobo CPU-fan header) and a 3-pin pump connector.

1) Can I plug the 3-pin into the mobo's other 4-pin? (Looking at Mobo instructions the 4th pin missing is speed control, so I'm assuming it will work since the pump doesn't need voltage control, it just turns on)

2) Now, with those 2 fan headers occupied, my case will have 2 more fans. What's the best way to connect these two additional fans? Split 1 of the 4-pin headers on the mobo, or convert some spare molex into 4-pin headers?

ANYONE?

and please can anyone recommend a good SSD, under $199. Space does not matter. I'll have a HDD for storage on the side.

For a monitor @ 27" definitely look for something 2560x1440 (or 2560x1600). Brands off the top of my head include ASUS, Samsung, LG. Any one of those manufacturers that produce LED's will be a good choice. IPS is a key selling point (supposedly the best viewing angles/colors), but is significantly more $$$ unless you look at a Korean model (yamakasi, shimian, catleap, achieva). To get an idea of it, visit an Apple store and check out the 27" iMacs.

The difference between the two you have listed is inputs. 1 has DVI, whereas the other doesn't. Get the model that suits your needs. Unfortunately, I can't comment on the whole DVI vs Displayport debate since I don't know anything about them.
 

Venfayth

Member
Ugh, looking for some help building a new list. My mobo died and it's time for an overhaul.

Case: COOLER MASTER HAF X Blue Edition RC-942-KKN3 Black Steel / Plastic ATX Full Tower Computer Case with Black Interior and Four ...
Mobo: GIGABYTE GA-Z77X-UP4 TH LGA 1155 Intel Z77 HDMI SATA 6Gb/s USB 3.0 ATX Intel Motherboard with Dual Thunderbolt
CPU: Intel Core i7-3770K Ivy Bridge 3.5GHz (3.9GHz Turbo) LGA 1155 77W Quad-Core Desktop Processor Intel HD Graphics 4000 BX80637I73770K
Heatsink: ZALMAN CNPS9900MAX-B 135mm Long life bearing CPU Cooler Blue LED
Graphics: EVGA 02G-P4-2680-KR GeForce GTX 680 2GB 256-bit GDDR5 PCI Express 3.0 x16 HDCP Ready SLI Support Video Card
Memory: G.SKILL Ripjaws Z Series 32GB (4 x 8GB) 240-Pin DDR3 SDRAM DDR3 1600 (PC3 12800) Desktop Memory Model F3-12800CL10Q-32GBZL
SSD: SAMSUNG 830 Series MZ-7PC128B/WW 2.5" 128GB SATA III MLC Internal Solid State Drive (SSD)
PSU: CORSAIR Professional Series Gold AX850 (CMPSU-850AX) 850W ATX12V v2.31 / EPS12V v2.92 80 PLUS GOLD Certified Full Modular ...
Sound Card: ASUS XONAR_DG 5.1 Channels PCI Interface Xonar DG Sound Card
Capture Card: AVerMedia Live Gamer HD - Capture & Share Your PC Game Footages MTVLIVGHD PCI-Express x1 Interface

Some other info: I'm bringing over my 1tb HDD from my old computer just to use as storage, but it's a Sata II. Will Sata II work in Sata III ports?

This computer is primarily for streaming, and I really, really want to have a triple monitor setup. Will I need to do SLI if I want to do 3x monitors?

Besides that, is there anything really simple I'm overlooking? Or any good deals with similar quality?

edit: Also, I have Windows 7 installed on my old HDD, and I really don't want to buy it again. Is there any way to get it on the new SSD? :/
 

kharma45

Member
Ugh, looking for some help building a new list. My mobo died and it's time for an overhaul.

Case: COOLER MASTER HAF X Blue Edition RC-942-KKN3 Black Steel / Plastic ATX Full Tower Computer Case with Black Interior and Four ...
Mobo: GIGABYTE GA-Z77X-UP4 TH LGA 1155 Intel Z77 HDMI SATA 6Gb/s USB 3.0 ATX Intel Motherboard with Dual Thunderbolt
CPU: Intel Core i7-3770K Ivy Bridge 3.5GHz (3.9GHz Turbo) LGA 1155 77W Quad-Core Desktop Processor Intel HD Graphics 4000 BX80637I73770K
Heatsink: ZALMAN CNPS9900MAX-B 135mm Long life bearing CPU Cooler Blue LED
Graphics: EVGA 02G-P4-2680-KR GeForce GTX 680 2GB 256-bit GDDR5 PCI Express 3.0 x16 HDCP Ready SLI Support Video Card
Memory: G.SKILL Ripjaws Z Series 32GB (4 x 8GB) 240-Pin DDR3 SDRAM DDR3 1600 (PC3 12800) Desktop Memory Model F3-12800CL10Q-32GBZL
SSD: SAMSUNG 830 Series MZ-7PC128B/WW 2.5" 128GB SATA III MLC Internal Solid State Drive (SSD)
PSU: CORSAIR Professional Series Gold AX850 (CMPSU-850AX) 850W ATX12V v2.31 / EPS12V v2.92 80 PLUS GOLD Certified Full Modular ...
Sound Card: ASUS XONAR_DG 5.1 Channels PCI Interface Xonar DG Sound Card
Capture Card: AVerMedia Live Gamer HD - Capture & Share Your PC Game Footages MTVLIVGHD PCI-Express x1 Interface

Some other info: I'm bringing over my 1tb HDD from my old computer just to use as storage, but it's a Sata II. Will Sata II work in Sata III ports?

This computer is primarily for streaming, and I really, really want to have a triple monitor setup. Will I need to do SLI if I want to do 3x monitors?

Besides that, is there anything really simple I'm overlooking? Or any good deals with similar quality?

SATA II HDD will work fine in SATA III ports.

Do you really need a 3770K? If it's mainly for gaming use the 3570K is a better buy. Also, 32GB of RAM? Huge overkill. 8GB is all you need by the sounds of it.

I'd also change the 680 to a 7970 or a 670.

You could also probably do without the sound card unless you really feel you need it.
 

Venfayth

Member
SATA II HDD will work fine in SATA III ports.

Do you really need a 3770K? If it's mainly for gaming use the 3570K is a better buy. Also, 32GB of RAM? Huge overkill. 8GB is all you need by the sounds of it.

I'd also change the 680 to a 7970 or a 670.

It's for gaming, but I also want to be able to stream in 1080p.

My old system was running:

CPU AMD|PH II X6 1090T 3.2G AM3 RT
VGA SAPPHIRE|100312-3SR HD6950 2G R

and having problems streaming games at 720p, I'd start to get massive framerate drops.
 
So the 660Ti is going to be a lightning deal on Amazon in about 10 minutes (just click through until you see 'upcoming'.

Is this a decent upgrade from a 6870? Not sure if I want to spend that much on a marginal upgrade. Might wait for a better card in a few months.

EDIT: Ha, that was fast, gone in 60 seconds. Waitlist full. I think I wouldn't have been happy anyway, seems like a decent jump, but not a great one for just having purchased my card about a year ago.
 

xero273

Member
edit: Also, I have Windows 7 installed on my old HDD, and I really don't want to buy it again. Is there any way to get it on the new SSD? :/

get the product key for windows. reinstall in your new machine and activate. Can't use that same key in your old machine anymore. If the windows doesn't activate then you should be able to phone support and just say something like I need to reformat the PC or hard drive broke something like that and they give you a code to activate windows.
 

Salsa

Member
fuck it

got RMA to give me back the money and I bought a used (1 month old supposedly) GTX680 from an importer for $100 less than what I paid for the 670

even though its used he's gonna give me a 6 month warranty

think it was a decent choice
 

Birbo

Member
Ok, I've switched up a few things here for my build. Trying to stay cheap but capable for this gaming/HTPC that will be hooked up to my TV. Want everything to fit in an HTPC case as it'll go in a horizontal space in my TV stand.

CPU: i5 2500k (already purchased for $100 at MicroCenter)
Motherboard: ECS H61H2-M2(1.0) Micro ATX LGA1155
RAM: Samsung 2x4GB DDR3-1600 MV-3V4G3D/US
GPU: HIS Radeon HD 7850 2GB
Case: nMEDIAPC Black Aluminum / Acrylic / Steel HTPC 5000B
Storage: Sandisk 128GB 2.5" SSD and/or Western Digital Caviar Black 1TB 3.5" 7200RPM
PSU: Corsair CX600 V2
 

kakashi08

Member
What do you think?

Monitor: ASUS PB Series PB278Q 27" 5ms (GTG) WQHD HDMI Widescreen LED Monitor
SSD: SAMSUNG 830 Series MZ-7PC128B/WW 2.5" 128GB SATA III MLC Internal SSD
CPU:Intel Core i5-3570K Ivy Bridge 3.4GHz (3.8GHz Turbo) LGA 1155 77W Quad-Core
GPU: SAPPHIRE Vapor-X 100351VXSR Radeon HD 7970 GHz Edition 3GB 384-bit GDDR5
MOBO:ASUS SABERTOOTH Z77 LGA 1155 Intel Z77 HDMI SATA 6Gb/s USB 3.0 ATX Intel
PSU: COOLER MASTER GX Series RS650-ACAAD3-US 650W ATX12V v2.31 80 PLUS BRONZE Certified Active PFC Power Supply
RAM: G.SKILL Ripjaws Series 8GB (2 x 4GB) 240-Pin DDR3 SDRAM DDR3 1600 (PC3 12800)
HEATSINK: ZALMAN CNPS9500 AT 2 Ball CPU Cooling Fan/Heatsink
CD: ASUS Black Blu-ray Burner SATA BW-12B1ST/BLK/G/AS

All I'm going to be doing is GAMING/MOVIES.
 
Usually I read through a thread before asking a question that's probably been covered, but this is a huge thread.

I currently have a GTX 560, and that's not going to cut it with Far Cry 3. I'm considering the 660 (non ti) as it seems to offer decent value and is about the max I'm willing to spend (under $250). Is this a decent choice?
 

AwesomeSauce

MagsMoonshine
NoRéN;44606546 said:

I just bought the 120gb version for 50$.

Granted it was a clearance item at Staples.

fuck it

got RMA to give me back the money and I bought a used (1 month old supposedly) GTX680 from an importer for $100 less than what I paid for the 670

even though its used he's gonna give me a 6 month warranty

think it was a decent choice

If the card works fine, then I think you should be golden. You also have warranty, so that's some peace of mind there.
 

NoRéN

Member
I just bought the 120gb version for 50$.

Granted it was a clearance item at Staples.

The staples near never have any good clearance stuff.

I don't know if i should get it or wait for something similar for cheaper tomorrow or friday.

I was kinda hoping for a Crucial m4 256 gb for a similar price.
 
Motherboard: GIGABYTE GA-Z77X-UD5H-WB - $170
Processor: Intel Core i7-3770 - $300
Graphics Card: EVGA 02G-P4-2678-KR GeForce GTX 670 - $390
Hard Drive #1: OCZ Vertex 4 128GB - $130
Hard Drive #2: Western Digital WD Black WD2002FAEX 2TB - $180
RAM: CORSAIR Vengeance LP 16GB x2 - $142
Case: COOLER MASTER HAF XB RC-902XB-KKN1 - $100

Total: $1412
Budget: $1500

Sooooo what do you guys think of this build? I will be gaming and editing video on it.
 

Ty4on

Member
Motherboard: GIGABYTE GA-Z77X-UD5H-WB - $170
Processor: Intel Core i7-3770 - $300
Graphics Card: EVGA 02G-P4-2678-KR GeForce GTX 670 - $390
Hard Drive #1: OCZ Vertex 4 128GB - $130
Hard Drive #2: Western Digital WD Black WD2002FAEX 2TB - $180
RAM: CORSAIR Vengeance LP 16GB x2 - $142
Case: COOLER MASTER HAF XB RC-902XB-KKN1 - $100

Total: $1412
Budget: $1500

Sooooo what do you guys think of this build? I will be gaming and editing video on it.

Get a K model i7, it can be overclocked and resold for a much higher price. Many are able to overclock it to 4GHz on the stock cooler, 4.5ish on a Cooler Master 212.
The OCZ SSDs have a bad rep for reliablilty, the Samsung 830 or Crucial M4 however are know for being reliable.
32GB of RAM is probably too much. Most recommend 8GB for gaming and 16GB for multimedia work.
In that case you can use a non reference coolers. Reference coolers have a centrifugal fan blowing air out the back. They are efficient and keep hot air outside the case, but can also be noisy. Non reference coolers are more open with 1-3 (usually 2) fans blowing over the card and make much less noise while keeping the card colder in a well ventilated case.

Oh, and if you need a lot of HDD space then that case only has space for two 3.5 inch drives. It is possible to fit six 2.5 inch drives and there are converters for optical bay to 3.5 drives, but if you need a lot of storage down the line that could be worth considering. Nice of them to give you six 2.5 inch drives, it doesn't take a lot of space and with SSDs getting so cheap it is probably the future.
 
Motherboard: GIGABYTE GA-Z77X-UD5H-WB - $170
Processor: Intel Core i7-3770 - $300
Graphics Card: EVGA 02G-P4-2678-KR GeForce GTX 670 - $390
Hard Drive #1: OCZ Vertex 4 128GB - $130
Hard Drive #2: Western Digital WD Black WD2002FAEX 2TB - $180
RAM: CORSAIR Vengeance LP 16GB x2 - $142
Case: COOLER MASTER HAF XB RC-902XB-KKN1 - $100

Total: $1412
Budget: $1500

Sooooo what do you guys think of this build? I will be gaming and editing video on it.

I think you can get a better deal on that OCZ Vertex 4 for about $75 on Amazon right now. I think your RAM seems way overpriced too if you mean you have 2x8 GB for 16 GB total... like, 2x what it should cost. Or, if you're getting 32 GB total, then as Ty4on mentioned that's really just pointless at this point. Even 8 GB is still generally overkill for gaming purposes. Are you outside of the US?
 

kharma45

Member
It's for gaming, but I also want to be able to stream in 1080p.

My old system was running:

CPU AMD|PH II X6 1090T 3.2G AM3 RT
VGA SAPPHIRE|100312-3SR HD6950 2G R

and having problems streaming games at 720p, I'd start to get massive framerate drops.

I'll probably be a bit ignorant here, but streaming like OnLive? Why would that need such high specs?

So the 660Ti is going to be a lightning deal on Amazon in about 10 minutes (just click through until you see 'upcoming'.

Is this a decent upgrade from a 6870? Not sure if I want to spend that much on a marginal upgrade. Might wait for a better card in a few months.

EDIT: Ha, that was fast, gone in 60 seconds. Waitlist full. I think I wouldn't have been happy anyway, seems like a decent jump, but not a great one for just having purchased my card about a year ago.

Sticking with your 6870 was the right call, stick with it until the next gen of cards.

Ok, I've switched up a few things here for my build. Trying to stay cheap but capable for this gaming/HTPC that will be hooked up to my TV. Want everything to fit in an HTPC case as it'll go in a horizontal space in my TV stand.

CPU: i5 2500k (already purchased for $100 at MicroCenter)
Motherboard: ECS H61H2-M2(1.0) Micro ATX LGA1155
RAM: Samsung 2x4GB DDR3-1600 MV-3V4G3D/US
GPU: HIS Radeon HD 7850 2GB
Case: nMEDIAPC Black Aluminum / Acrylic / Steel HTPC 5000B
Storage: Sandisk 128GB 2.5" SSD and/or Western Digital Caviar Black 1TB 3.5" 7200RPM
PSU: Corsair CX600 V2

Look at this PSU instead

http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16817151119

What do you think?

Monitor: ASUS PB Series PB278Q 27" 5ms (GTG) WQHD HDMI Widescreen LED Monitor
SSD: SAMSUNG 830 Series MZ-7PC128B/WW 2.5" 128GB SATA III MLC Internal SSD
CPU:Intel Core i5-3570K Ivy Bridge 3.4GHz (3.8GHz Turbo) LGA 1155 77W Quad-Core
GPU: SAPPHIRE Vapor-X 100351VXSR Radeon HD 7970 GHz Edition 3GB 384-bit GDDR5
MOBO:ASUS SABERTOOTH Z77 LGA 1155 Intel Z77 HDMI SATA 6Gb/s USB 3.0 ATX Intel
PSU: COOLER MASTER GX Series RS650-ACAAD3-US 650W ATX12V v2.31 80 PLUS BRONZE Certified Active PFC Power Supply
RAM: G.SKILL Ripjaws Series 8GB (2 x 4GB) 240-Pin DDR3 SDRAM DDR3 1600 (PC3 12800)
HEATSINK: ZALMAN CNPS9500 AT 2 Ball CPU Cooling Fan/Heatsink
CD: ASUS Black Blu-ray Burner SATA BW-12B1ST/BLK/G/AS

All I'm going to be doing is GAMING/MOVIES.

Are you in the US by any chance?

any difference between 212+ and 212 evo?

Very little, just get whichever is cheaper.

Usually I read through a thread before asking a question that's probably been covered, but this is a huge thread.

I currently have a GTX 560, and that's not going to cut it with Far Cry 3. I'm considering the 660 (non ti) as it seems to offer decent value and is about the max I'm willing to spend (under $250). Is this a decent choice?

7870 could be a good alternative

http://www.amazon.com/dp/B007PJVB3Y/?tag=neogaf0e-20

http://www.anandtech.com/bench/Product/548?vs=660

7870 also overclocks very well like all the 7xxx range does. 7850 is also worth considering too, going really cheap atm

http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16814161405

Motherboard: GIGABYTE GA-Z77X-UD5H-WB - $170
Processor: Intel Core i7-3770 - $300
Graphics Card: EVGA 02G-P4-2678-KR GeForce GTX 670 - $390
Hard Drive #1: OCZ Vertex 4 128GB - $130
Hard Drive #2: Western Digital WD Black WD2002FAEX 2TB - $180
RAM: CORSAIR Vengeance LP 16GB x2 - $142
Case: COOLER MASTER HAF XB RC-902XB-KKN1 - $100

Total: $1412
Budget: $1500

Sooooo what do you guys think of this build? I will be gaming and editing video on it.

I'd go for a Samsung 830 for the SSD, and the 3770 to a 3770K.
 

Trojita

Rapid Response Threadmaker
Yeah go for the Samsung 830.

Why were you guys recommending the 840 instead of the 830 before?

I saw it mentioned on another site that the 840 uses cheaper components than the 830's?

I missed the deal on the 830's and Kingston today.

Also I might drop getting a thunderbolt equipped motherboard now that I've heard of all the problems Thunderbolt users are having with their displays.

So now I either go Cinema Display or Korean Monitor, or just keep on using my Dell 2408WFP.
 

kharma45

Member
Thanks for taking the time to reply, I'll check this out!

7870 sits just ahead of the 660 with the new drivers

perfrel.gif

http://www.techpowerup.com/reviews/AMD/Catalyst_12.11_Performance/1.html

It's worth a look definitely. There is also the fact that the limited memory bus on the 660 could cause issues in the future but that's just pure speculation, you can never really predict what's going to happen.
 

Firebrand

Member
What's people's thoughts on getting a 4-core CPU now, if 6-8 core Haswells and consoles might appear next year?

I'd like to avoid my mistake of getting an E8500 over the quad, but there doesn't seem to be many alternatives at the moment rather than the pricey i7 6-core. Do you think an i7 quad with its hyperthreading would hold up better than the i5?
 

FinKL

Member
What's people's thoughts on getting a 4-core CPU now, if 6-8 core Haswells and consoles might appear next year?

I'd like to avoid my mistake of getting an E8500 over the quad, but there doesn't seem to be many alternatives at the moment rather than the pricey i7 6-core. Do you think an i7 quad with its hyperthreading would hold up better than the i5?

What's wrong with your E8500? Mine holds up well w/ a GTX260.

I personally don't think consoles will be the graphic behemoths that current PC's can do and push out.

For gaming, hyperthreading is usually never utilized, so if you are debating between i5-3750k (4core4threads) w/ the i7-3770k(4core8threads) the $100 is never justified unless you know some applications you use that take advantage of it.
 

TrounceX

Member
Hey I'm not sure if this is breaking any rules, but I'm trying to sell my GTX 570 and am not having any luck. I've tried in the buy/sell/trade thread a few times, but no takers.

If anyone is looking for a good card at a great price send me a PM. :)
 

xJavonta

Banned
Thanks for the info, I am should be able to get it going just fine based on your instructions. I won't have all my parts for another week or so at least, but I'll keep this bookmarked until then!

Unrelated, but what experiences have you guys found with overclocking Samsung's 30 nm DDR3 sticks, but sticking with the stock 1.35 V? I found one review suggestions 1866 MHz and 10-10-10-24 timings is doable, but I suspect the best way to figure this out would be to make some modest changes and then run MemTest to verify stability? I know each stick can act differently, so I'm guessing incremental overclocking with MemTesting along the way is the best method.
Good to know you got it figured out!

fuck it

got RMA to give me back the money and I bought a used (1 month old supposedly) GTX680 from an importer for $100 less than what I paid for the 670

even though its used he's gonna give me a 6 month warranty

think it was a decent choice
Are you still pushing 768p? You're going to have unbelievable frames with a 680 lol
 
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