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"I need a New PC!" 2013 Part 1. Haswell, Crysis 3, and secret fairy sauce. Read da OP

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Vestal

Junior Member
I thought about that too, but in terms of getting an expensive item like this, I have to strike while the irons hot. If I wait then I won't be able to lol. But yeah, I definitely need to upgrade that too asap. If I start having problems with the 670 then I'll just switch back to the 8800GT until I get another PSU.

Be aware that your system will probably be extremely unstable with the 670 and your current PSU. It may boot but once the card starts pulling power it may crash your machine.
 

kennah

Member
Hey kennah, mind sharing your build? I'd like to get a feel as to what goes into a full WC mini-ITX case.

For sure. I don't have everything everything yet. But here is my tentative parts list. Funny how my 'small upgrade' has approached a thousand dollars.

Base Components
Intel 2550K
Asus P8Z77-I
EVGA 670 4gig SC
Samsung 8GIG Green ram
128gig 830
250gig 840
SILVERSTONE ST45SF-G 450W PSU

Watercooling (selection help from mkenyon)
Radiators - XSPC EX 120mm and 240mm
Blocks - EK FC670 (video) and EK LTX (CPU)
Pump - D5 or DC-LT
Pump Top - EK D5 Top or Alphacool DC-LT top
Tubing - Duralene 7/16x5/8"
Fittings - Monsoon 7/16x5/8" White, various angle adapters, T fitting, fill port
Fans - 3 x Corsair SP 120

Probably going to go with the EK D5 top since it is easier for me to find in Canada. But the other pump is smaller so it might end up being necessary. Going to be fun moving my other hard drives to being external. Maybe I'll finally make the NAS I want at home. (Or use my Q6600 for a server - how did I start by 'upgrading' and just end up building a completely new computer?)

I still need to get most of the watercooling stuff, the SFX powersupply and second SSD. I'll be really really surprised if this gets completed before June.
 

Vestal

Junior Member
For sure. I don't have everything everything yet. But here is my tentative parts list. Funny how my 'small upgrade' has approached a thousand dollars.

Base Components
Intel 2550K
Asus P8Z77-I
EVGA 670 4gig SC
Samsung 8GIG Green ram
128gig 830
250gig 840
SILVERSTONE ST45SF-G 450W PSU

Watercooling (selection help from mkenyon)
Radiators - XSPC EX 120mm and 240mm
Blocks - EK FC670 (video) and EK LTX (CPU)
Pump - D5 or DC-LT
Pump Top - EK D5 Top or Alphacool DC-LT top
Tubing - Duralene 7/16x5/8"
Fittings - Monsoon 7/16x5/8" White, various angle adapters, T fitting, fill port
Fans - 3 x Corsair SP 120

Probably going to go with the EK D5 top since it is easier for me to find in Canada. But the other pump is smaller so it might end up being necessary. Going to be fun moving my other hard drives to being external. Maybe I'll finally make the NAS I want at home. (Or use my Q6600 for a server - how did I start by 'upgrading' and just end up building a completely new computer?)

I still need to get most of the watercooling stuff, the SFX powersupply and second SSD. I'll be really really surprised if this gets completed before June.

Im sort of the same boat as you. I am planning on switching to watercooling on my current rig..
Current System
Intel i7 2600k
Asus P8z68 Deluxe
Corsair Vengeance 16gig 1600 kit(4x4)
Corsair 750 watt PSU
EVGA 660ti(Going to Step up to 670 if the refresh doesn't happen in the next 87 days)
Corsair 800d Case.

Currently have 2 Corsair SP120s on my H100 CPU cooler, and 1 SF140 in the case. (need another 140 since only have 1 for intake and using stock corsair fan for backside outflow).

Although I am leaning towards the swifttech pumps.. Not sure if I will go with their reservoir which has the 2 integrated pumps or just buy a separate reservoir and pumps. Same radiators in mind, although I need to figure out how they will fit in the 800d Case.

Maybe go one bottom and 1 top radiator.. dunno.
 

xJavonta

Banned
So, HDD question.

My 1 TB data drive is getting full (about 90 GB left) and I want to snag a new one. This one currently has all my Steam, Origin, and non DRM games as well as movie backups and music.

Would it be smart to keep this drive for media and then just buy another 1 TB drive for Steam/Origin/non-DRM games? Or just ditch it and get one 2 TB drive and use that for everything (excluding the OS)
 

Vestal

Junior Member
So, HDD question.

My 1 TB data drive is getting full (about 90 GB left) and I want to snag a new one. This one currently has all my Steam, Origin, and non DRM games as well as movie backups and music.

Would it be smart to keep this drive for media and then just buy another 1 TB drive for Steam/Origin/non-DRM games? Or just ditch it and get one 2 TB drive and use that for everything (excluding the OS)

My personal preference is the following.

1 128 SSD for OS
1 258 SSD for Games/Apps
1 500 HDD as a scratch drive(temp folder, Page file, and staging area for downloads)
2 2 TB drives in Raid 1 array for backup.


Currently running
1 128 SSD OS and games
1 500 HDD scratch
2 1TB Drives in Raid 1


I personally always encourage a mirror solution for Backup/Important stuff..

If you are limited to those options. I would get the 2TB and use both drives, 1 for OS and non game apps, other for Games+Backup
 

mkenyon

Banned
STUPID GOOD DEAL FROM MICROCENTER

Maximus V Gene for $105

Although I am leaning towards the swifttech pumps.. Not sure if I will go with their reservoir which has the 2 integrated pumps or just buy a separate reservoir and pumps. Same radiators in mind, although I need to figure out how they will fit in the 800d Case.

Maybe go one bottom and 1 top radiator.. dunno.
Keep in mind that DDC pumps are very very noisy unless you get the MCP35x w/ PWM and run them at 35-45%. Otherwise, a D5 pump is the way to go.

Generally you would only need two pumps if you want redundancy or are having pressure issues from a giant 3 way SLI loop with huge radiators.
I have a core i7 2600k with a H100 corsair cooler. Since I had to clean up and reapply Thermal paste I haven't OCed it again, however when running Prime95 core2 shows an average of 4-5 degrees Celsius higher under full load compared to the cores. Under no load they all go to normal. But this core records up 53 degrees under full load as opposed to the other cores that sit at around 47-48. Has anyone encountered this?

I am kinda tempted to clean up the CPU/Cooler and reapply the ArticSilver.


Thanks.
Extremely normal. It would be abnormal if you didn't have a core that was different than the others.
Heh, yeah.... mine is probably going to take a fair bit of tweaking once I have it all to fit into this

http://www.craftograph.com/compactsplash/index.php?route=common/home

Can't wait.

EDIT: Serious question guys. What should I put on the nameplate? You're allowed up to 13 characters. "kennah" seems a little too boring. Any ideas? Colour suggestions welcome too. Currently leaning towards the same blue as my Subaru - 95H Blue Ridge Pearl.
You should have orange fluid and a grey box. Put 'NeoGAF' on the front :p
 

brentech

Member
Welp, went to Microcenter about an hour away and bought all my parts.

Your Sale Information
Item SKU Item Description Quantity Per Item Price Total Price

425470 INTEL BOX INTEL CORE I5-3570K 1 189.99 189.99

051185 MSI GTX660OC TWNFZ3 2GB PCIE3 1 229.99 229.99

380550 ASROCK ASROCK Z77 EXTREME4 1 94.99 94.99

897090 LGELECOEM LG 14X SATA BD BURNER 1 59.99 59.99

888438 COOLMAST HYPER 212 EVO UNIV HSF 1 29.99 29.99

133694 THERMALTA TR2 700W ATX PSU 1 67.99 67.99

981829 TOSHOEM TOS 3.5" 1TB 7200 HDD 1 59.99 59.99

211334 CRUCIAL 8GB 4X2 D3 1600 DIMM CL9 1 46.99 46.99

546788 ARCSLVR CERAMIC THRML COMP 1.75 1 6.99 6.99

337881 LGEUSA 23.6'' LED 24EN33TW MONIT 1 149.99 149.99

133835 DIABLOT EVO ATX MID-TOWER CASE 1 37.99 37.99

Subtotal »
974.89
Tax » 75.55

Sale Total » $1,050.44
Didn't really intend to buy the BluRay drive, but figured it'd be nice. Went planning to get 7850, but the GTX660 was what I wanted and unlisted online...also cheaper so that went well. Monitor was something that just went on sale today on their site, so I felt good about that too, considering I didn't want to spend anymore than that.

All in all, spent a tad more than intended, but I think in the end I'll be happier. It's not like I'm hard pressed for money, I just like to be smart. I do have some mail-ins that will give back like 60-80, not sure, gotta go through them.

Products Pic:
8559166543_7a961c7e41_o.jpg
 

kennah

Member
LOL. No. I'm classier than that. I don't think custom cutouts are an option unless I want to get my hands really dirty.
 

noomi

Member
Welp, went to Microcenter about an hour away and bought all my parts.


Didn't really intend to buy the BluRay drive, but figured it'd be nice. Went planning to get 7850, but the GTX660 was what I wanted and unlisted online...also cheaper so that went well. Monitor was something that just went on sale today on their site, so I felt good about that too, considering I didn't want to spend anymore than that.

All in all, spent a tad more than intended, but I think in the end I'll be happier. It's not like I'm hard pressed for money, I just like to be smart. I do have some mail-ins that will give back like 60-80, not sure, gotta go through them.

Products Pic:
8559166543_7a961c7e41_o.jpg

Nice man, I built my whole rig through microcenter. They have some amazing prices, and the one in NJ only has 3.5% sales tax ;)
 

brentech

Member
Nice man, I built my whole rig through microcenter. They have some amazing prices, and the one in NJ only has 3.5% sales tax ;)

Thanks. I've built a handful of systems, but never have been to a Microcenter before. Always bought from Newegg and maybe local stores for peripherals.
Nice store, much larger than expected. Was really weird, I got there around 5 min before opening and there was a crowd outside the door. Haven't seen that in some time. Apparently a huge demand.

Only 3 of their stores in my state.
 

brentech

Member
How the hell is Microcenter so cheap? The i7-3770k is 229.99 right now!
They currently have a deal when buying motherboard/processor/ram that makes the 3570k, basically any MB and 8GB ram just over $300.

But yea, good prices on most items. Processors and some othe things are in store only though.
 

xJavonta

Banned
My personal preference is the following.

1 128 SSD for OS
1 258 SSD for Games/Apps
1 500 HDD as a scratch drive(temp folder, Page file, and staging area for downloads)
2 2 TB drives in Raid 1 array for backup.


Currently running
1 128 SSD OS and games
1 500 HDD scratch
2 1TB Drives in Raid 1


I personally always encourage a mirror solution for Backup/Important stuff..

If you are limited to those options. I would get the 2TB and use both drives, 1 for OS and non game apps, other for Games+Backup
A little too expensive for me haha, I still don't have my SSD. Money was tied up in other stuff so I couldn't afford it and put my OS on a 120GB laptop drive as a placeholder until then.
 

Vestal

Junior Member
STUPID GOOD DEAL FROM MICROCENTER

Maximus V Gene for $105


Keep in mind that DDC pumps are very very noisy unless you get the MCP35x w/ PWM and run them at 35-45%. Otherwise, a D5 pump is the way to go.

Generally you would only need two pumps if you want redundancy or are having pressure issues from a giant 3 way SLI loop with huge radiators.

Well this is my first watercooling build, so I guess I will ask you this question since you apparently have done it before.

Is there a huge temp difference with 2 Radiators?
I am a stickler for redundancy so I am going the 2 pump route, however what would be a better config? Daisy chain next to each other or have 1 right behind the intake for the radiator and the other on the outtake?
 

mkenyon

Banned
Well this is my first watercooling build, so I guess I will ask you this question since you apparently have done it before.

Is there a huge temp difference with 2 Radiators?
I am a stickler for redundancy so I am going the 2 pump route, however what would be a better config? Daisy chain next to each other or have 1 right behind the intake for the radiator and the other on the outtake?
Radiators have a rating of heat (in watts) dissipated. If you surpass the amount of watts that are being cooled, you do not gain any benefit. So lets say you have 300W you want to dissipate. If you gets rads that combined can dissipate 350W, there won't be any difference in temps between that and rads that disspiate 300W.

Choosing the radiators in specific is a combination of a few questions:

1) How much space do you have?
2) How quiet do you want the system to run?
3) Are you planning on expanding more parts to be cooled as well in the future?

What determines how much heat a radiator can dissipate is based on total fin surface area. Obviously you can pack more fins in a thicker rad, but radiators also have a rating called FPI (fins per inch). High FPI radiators require fans to be spinning fast in order to adequately cool, and are really inefficient at low RPM. Low FPI radiators are extremely efficient at low RPMs but fall off as the fans spin up.

Here's the website you can pull most of your data from to decide.

As far as where to put the pumps, it doesn't matter in the slightest. Though it is natural to think of a loop in terms of a point to point system, this is actually inaccurate. The entire loop is going to be normalized throughout, so it doesn't matter where you put the second pump. If you were to place them in daisy, or a second one after a particularly restrictive block, the flow will remain the same.

This same logic applies to loop order as well. A lot of people want to go Rad->block->rad->block, but that has absolutely no benefit compared to putting block after block after block. Water moves so fast that the heat from a prior block does not transfer to the next. Always go for the shortest and cleanest route possible.
 

sammich

Member
Ok guys, time for my upgrade for my Video card. Card will mainly be used in my monster HTPC. PC is about a year old now i think. It currently has a XFX 6850. It does its job. BUT, id like it to be replaced with something that will have an easier time doing its job.

Requirements in terms of importance:

Low Noise
Low heat
Low power

Since its an HTPC, i game at 1080p. So that is the minimum as well, maximum threshold. Playing POE makes my fan on the card ramp up and its quite noticeable. Mind you i have most of the settings cranked and it does its job quite respectably. I usually jump out of the loop once i upgrade and then jump back in 4 years later to catch up, so i need some help :)
 

VE3TRO

Formerly Gizmowned
Regarding the CPU I'm stuck between the 3970X and 3930k (oc'd 4.4GHz). The 3930k does seem better value for the money and near results with overclocked but since I'm going to be sticking with this build for along time to come would the 3970X be more future proof?

I've done some price changes and I would be paying £250 more or so for the 3970X.
 

Kipp

but I am taking tiny steps forward
WOO! My $485 used PC just arrived! It looks absolutely perfect. I don't have time right now to do a boot or anything (and I don't have my monitor yet), but when I plugged it in the mobo light turned on and everything looks pristine anyways, so I have no reason to believe it won't run perfectly.
No pics for now, but I'll take lots of pics when I get everything set up in about a week!

Also, from the pictures that Lian-Li case looked pretty meh, but seeing it in real life... man, that thing is a beauty. And it's SO SOLID.
Also regarding the case, what's the best way to clean it? There are a few very minor marks that seem like they should come off very easily but I don't know if there's a specific way you're supposed to clean aluminum. Also I'll need to clean off some sticker residue after I peel off the Apple sticker that was slapped on the side (lol).
 
Heh, I got a gift certificate from Amazon covering the price drop of the SSD I ordered from them :D
They didn't need to offer a gift certificate, but that they did anyway shows to what extent amazon costumer service goes to ensure that the costumer is happy.

Will purchase again from Amazon.
 

Chris R

Member
STUPID GOOD DEAL FROM MICROCENTER

Maximus V Gene for $105

I can't recommended this motherboard enough! Terrific deal on it!

Slap a 3550k and a 670 in it and go to town!

Heh, I got a gift certificate from Amazon covering the price drop of the SSD I ordered from them :D
They didn't need to offer a gift certificate, but that they did anyway shows to what extent amazon costumer service goes to ensure that the costumer is happy.

Will purchase again from Amazon.

Nice to see that the policy has changed since I got my SSD :| I had to order another one at the reduced price and send it right back (as the "older" one) to get my money back.
 

mkenyon

Banned
Along with the MPower, definitely the best ~$200 board out there. The only board I'd personally prefer over it is the Gigabyte UP7, which is $400.
 

scogoth

Member
Well this is my first watercooling build, so I guess I will ask you this question since you apparently have done it before.

Is there a huge temp difference with 2 Radiators?
I am a stickler for redundancy so I am going the 2 pump route, however what would be a better config? Daisy chain next to each other or have 1 right behind the intake for the radiator and the other on the outtake?

great advice

I would just add to make your life easier put your pumps low down. As you fill your loop you need to have constant water flowing into the pumps so its best to have the reservoir before the pump in loop order and above the pump physically.
 

VE3TRO

Formerly Gizmowned

Alright then. I think this will probably be the final build. I'm happy with the price. Managed to change a few things from yesterday for a little bit more cash.

- CPU: Intel Core i7 3930K 3.20GHz @ 4.40GHz CPU
- Motherboard: Asus X79 Rampage IV Extreme Intel X79 DDR3 Motherboard
- RAM: Patriot Viper 3 "Red Venom" 16GB (4x4GB) DDR3 PC3-14900C9 1866MHz Quad Channel
- Cooler: Corsair Hydro H60
- GPU: Asus GeForce GTX 680 DirectCU II TOP 2048MB GDDR5
- PSU: Corsair Professional Series AX 760W '80 Plus Platinum' Modular
- SSD: Samsung 256GB SSD 840 PRO SATA 6Gb/s
- HDD: Seagate Barracuda 2TB 7200RPM SATA 6Gb/s
- Optical Drive: Asus BC-12B1ST BluRay-Rom / DVD-RW Drive OEM
- Case: NZXT Switch 810 Big Tower Case - White
- Fans: NZXT FZ-140 Airflow Fan Series, Red LED - 140mm x 2
 

Vestal

Junior Member
I would just add to make your life easier put your pumps low down. As you fill your loop you need to have constant water flowing into the pumps so its best to have the reservoir before the pump in loop order and above the pump physically.

yeah that was my plan from the start actually.. Still have to design how I will set it up, but I have a lot of room to play with in the 800D
 
Just unboxed the CoolerMaster 212 Evo
holy crap it's like 4 times bigger than any heatsink I've used before, lol.

I had the same shock! :D
The last PC I built was back in the HL2/Doom 3 era. (shoved a BFG 6800 GT OC into a tiny Shuttle case)

Parts have gotten bigger over the years!

-----------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------

Here is my question, the BIOS reports I have my CPU @ 4.4 GHz, while Windows system properties reports stock speed of 3.4 GHz.
 

mkenyon

Banned
You need CPU-Z to accurately look at the speed of your processor. Windows just reports the general info for the part, rather than polling the current hardware state.
 

mrklaw

MrArseFace
Pulled the trigger on the overclockers bitfenix prodigy build. Had a 2% off voucher which paid for delivery basically, and I'll call them in the morning to bump the stock 840 SSD to the 840 pro - was about £30 extra.
 

mkenyon

Banned
It helps, but it's not necessary.

I'd say just build it, and if you find that you want to drop temps a bit, then grabbing two Arctic Cooling F12s (avoid 140mm fans generally) would be a good way to go.
 
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