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"I need a New PC!" 2013 Part 1. Haswell, Crysis 3, and secret fairy sauce. Read da OP

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Sorral

Member
Unless you need more than one extra PCI thingy over the GPU go for the cheaper mATX board. Can't use multiple GPUs on H77 anyways.

No, I won't even put a wi-fi card as I will connect using ethernet for latency. I will not do crossfire either, but I thought it at least supported crossfire while no SLI.
 

kennah

Member
Naw I don't use them, that commercial just popped into my head. So are you going to do a build log for SFPC GAF?
I was kidding about the code. It is part of their advertising spam :p

And yes totally. But probably not until June. Compact Splash doesn't ship until May and my work is insane from the last week of April until the first week of June. Last year I banked up 110 hours of overtime in that 6 weeks.

It's looking good though. Got the processor to 5ghz under air (unstable). Now I just to make sure the 670 block I have will actually fit in the CS (and order the rest of the parts I need)
 

knitoe

Member
No, I won't even put a wi-fi card as I will connect using ethernet for latency. I will not do crossfire either, but I thought it at least supported crossfire while no SLI.

Wireless is 2-3ms more than Ethernet cable. Unless you play locally, makes almost zero difference when online game is usually 60-100ms.
 

Loxley

Member
So, my laptop is having a really strange audio problem. When I have nothing plugged into the audio/headphone jack, the computer produces absolutely no sound at all. However, when I do have something plugged in - whether it's headphones or speakers, sound does come out...but out of the laptop speakers.

To be clear, when I have headphones plugged in, sound comes out of the speakers but not the headphones, and when I have nothing plugged into the audio jack, the computer produces no sound whatsoever. I have run diagnostics to see if any drivers are messed up or if there is a hardware malfunction, but according to Windows everything is working absolutely just fine :/

Any ideas what the hell may have happened? I've made triple sure that my volume settings are what they should be, and everything appears to be fine, but that's obviously not the case.

*edit - It's an ASUS G53SX for the record.
 

Ty4on

Member
Edit: ^^^^^^Baaaaah, audio drivers. The laptop I'm using here would randomly when waking up from sleep with headphones plugged in start playing audio from the speakers as well. Thankfully there's another bug, in Linux the mute button has no effect what so ever on headphones so I keep it muted to hide the Sonic R music.

No, I won't even put a wi-fi card as I will connect using ethernet for latency. I will not do crossfire either, but I thought it at least supported crossfire while no SLI.

It has to do with it being unable to split the 16x lane into two 8x lanes for dual GPU. That also means you should have X79 (2011) for more than two GPUs, but that's way beyond my budget at least.
 

Irobot82

Member
In that case amd's stuff would be even better but until then.. Think I'll stick with i5, oc it and see how it goes

Yeah, unless you're getting it at Micro center, cause their i7 is like 20-40 more than most places sell a 3570k.

If you look at some of the more modern game like Crysis 3, the AMD chips are now up towards the top. It's just hey are still 32nm and 125w compared to 22nm and 77w. They still have a long way to go but I do honestly believe that with the coming consoles games will become x64 based and n threaded.
 

Ty4on

Member
Yeah, unless you're getting it at Micro center, cause their i7 is like 20-40 more than most places sell a 3570k.

If you look at some of the more modern game like Crysis 3, the AMD chips are now up towards the top. It's just hey are still 32nm and 125w compared to 22nm and 77w. They still have a long way to go but I do honestly believe that with the coming consoles games will become x64 based and n threaded.

Haven't seen any frametimes from Crysis 3, but the 3570k still beats the 8350 in minimum FPS. When a thread chugs you still need a powerful core (single threaded performance) taking care of it.
 

Irobot82

Member
Haven't seen any frametimes from Crysis 3, but the 3570k still beats the 8350 in minimum FPS. When a thread chugs you still need a powerful core (single threaded performance) taking care of it.

Yeah, they aren't close to worth the price or performance yet. Maybe we'll see something in the next 5 years who knows.
 

bro1

Banned
What temps should I be at with an i5 3570k and a hyper 212 evo running Prime95 for 3 hours? Also, why does 1 core run 7+ degrees hotter than the rest?
 

Sorral

Member
Wireless is 2-3ms more than Ethernet cable. Unless you play locally, makes almost zero difference when online game is usually 60-100ms.

Only 2-3ms...? I was pretty sure that it can be more inconsistent than that like something in the 5~15ms at least. What kind of a card are we talking about? <$30?
Still want the wired connection for the consistent streaming speed to the PS3 at a high rate(also wired), but this sounds interesting.

It has to do with it being unable to split the 16x lane into two 8x lanes for dual GPU. That also means you should have X79 (2011) for more than two GPUs, but that's way beyond my budget at least.

Ah, I see. I need to read up on all the new info on 16x. You're talking no SLI right? Just to make sure because the other PCI-E 2.0 should still do CFX according to the MB's page.

Will the 7990 be out approximately at the same time as Haswell?

PowerColor released one I thought: http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16814131483&Tpk=7990&IsVirtualParent=1

Edit: ^ Not the real 7990.
 

Sorral

Member
Thats not a *real* 7990. They just slapped two 7970s together on a single PCB (ala 690/6990 style) and called it a AX7990

Ah welp, my bad. Fixing my first post then! >_> When I heard of 'two 7970 put together' I thought it was just in terms of power...not what is actually happening here.
 

brentech

Member
What temps should I be at with an i5 3570k and a hyper 212 evo running Prime95 for 3 hours? Also, why does 1 core run 7+ degrees hotter than the rest?
Changes from chip to chip. In the 60s to mid 70s is fine.

It's normal for a core to run hotter than the rest.
 

knitoe

Member
Only 2-3ms...? I was pretty sure that it can be more inconsistent than that like something in the 5~15ms at least. What kind of a card are we talking about? <$30?
Still want the wired connection for the consistent streaming speed to the PS3 at a high rate(also wired), but this sounds interesting.
I use a Linksys WET610N wireless bridge + switch to connect my HTPC, X360, PS3 and TV. I get 2-3 ms when pinging from main PC(wired) to my HTPC(wireless). Google and you'll see that's the normal for wireless.
 

scogoth

Member
I use a Linksys WET610N wireless bridge + switch to connect my HTPC, X360, PS3 and TV. I get 2-3 ms when pinging from main PC(wired) to my HTPC(wireless).

That will increase a little with actual network traffic. You seem to have the perfect wireless setup as most wireless scenarios will see from 5-75ms increase depending on walls, traffic, interference, etc.
 

Ty4on

Member
Ah, I see. I need to read up on all the new info on 16x. You're talking no SLI right? Just to make sure because the other PCI-E 2.0 should still do CFX according to the MB's page.

Not 100% sure, but everywhere I read it said Z77 instead of H77 for dual GPU. Just google Z77 vs H77.
 

scogoth

Member
AMD does not require the same stringent motherboard certification testing that NVIDIA does for dual GPU setups so it is possible that any motherboard could get crossfire qualified. That being said unless the motherboard has a PLX chip (which no H77 does) then dual GPU setups will run in 8x and 8x mode or worse 8x and 4x mode. Also crossfire is entirely broken and should not under any circumstances be used. There is no benefit to crossfire right now and in some cases can be worse than single GPU.

http://www.pcper.com/reviews/Graphi...ils-Capture-based-Graphics-Performance-Testin
 

knitoe

Member
That will increase a little with actual network traffic. You seem to have the perfect wireless setup as most wireless scenarios will see from 5-75ms increase depending on walls, traffic, interference, etc.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Sue1Zvmh8JA

Extreme example and it's still only 1-4ms pinging (3:10) on the network. In home environment, 2-3ms is the norm. And, traffic not an issue if you have a router with QoS which all new routers have these days.
 

Sorral

Member
I use a Linksys WET610N wireless bridge + switch to connect my HTPC, X360, PS3 and TV. I get 2-3 ms when pinging from main PC(wired) to my HTPC(wireless). Google and you'll see that's the normal for wireless.

You have a different setup than mine. Getting an average of 4~5ms pings on my measly linksys E1200 router with some spikes at 9 to 21ms. Pretty much what I'd expect from real life performance on wireless.

Not 100% sure, but everywhere I read it said Z77 instead of H77 for dual GPU. Just google Z77 vs H77.

Yeah, I did earlier. Just kept finding some saying it won't do CFX, but like any H77 manufacturer mentioned it will. Apparently running on the PCI-E 2.0 on x4 mode.

Edit: beaten
 

scogoth

Member
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Sue1Zvmh8JA

Extreme example and it's still only 1-4ms ping. In a person home, will be luck mine. And, traffic not an issue if you have a router with QoS which all new routers have these days.

http://youtu.be/Sue1Zvmh8JA?t=5m25s
Thanks for proving my point, powerline faster.
And traffic is an issue on home routers as there will be overhead over running ICMP echo requests on their anemic processors. Also most people do not know how to setup QoS correctly and is best effort not guaranteed. Wireless is absolutely the least favourable for reliability, great for convenience but not for gaming. HTPC, xbox, PS3 fine but PC gaming can get unplayable when your latency is bouncing up and down
 

knitoe

Member
http://youtu.be/Sue1Zvmh8JA?t=5m25s
Thanks for proving my point, powerline faster.
And traffic is an issue on home routers as there will be overhead over running ICMP echo requests on their anemic processors. And most people do not know how to setup QoS correctly. Wireless is absolutely the least favourable for reliability, great for convenience but not for gaming. HTPC, xbox, PS3 fine but PC gaming can get unplayable when your latency is bouncing up and down
Did you not watch the video? Nobody home's environment is close to the situation they are testing, shit loads of other networks interfering, through 12 walls and etc. They even mention it in the video. When it comes to the almost nil difference, yes, wired >powerline>wireless. I tried all three. Same >2.0 K/D ratio in CoD TDM. And, all new routers have QoS on auto. You don't need to set it up unless you want to get your hands dirty.

The only thing you prove is you are wrong about "5-75ms" on wireless.
 

scogoth

Member
Did you not watch the video? Nobody home environment is close to the situation they are testing, shit loads of other networks interfering, through 12 walls and etc. They even mention it in the video. When it comes to the almost nil difference, yes, wired >powerline>wireless. I tried all three. Same >2.0 K/D ratio in CoD TDM. And, all new routers have QoS on auto. You don't need to set it up unless you want to get your hands dirty.

They really don't. QoS is a per packet or port based policy not automagically setup. And yes lots of people live in an environment with 10+ wireless networks, 2.4Ghz phones, microwaves, in apartments and condos. I understand it works for you but to manage the expectations of all the other gaffers they need to understand that wireless is not the best solution all the time. If you want to continue with anecdotal evidence my gf can't talk on skype over wireless sitting 6 ft from the wireless AP with 1 paper wall in between because her apartment has about 20 wireless networks in the area. I sit 20ft from my wireless router and can't get signal from it because there is a concrete wall in between. At my lake house wireless won't penetrate more than 2 wood walls before dying. It is very very very situationally dependent

All I'm saying is wireless is great for internet, youtube, tablets and phones and any other non latency dependant uses. For gaming it doesn't matter if your ping is 2 or 52 ms, if your jitter is 8ms games will be enjoyable and jitter at 15ms is unplayable. A wire, even power line, is preferable unless you can be 100% sure that your wireless signal is strong and there is little interference.
 
Koroviev is selling a 650 Ti for $110. Better card than anything you'd find for $100 at the store.

However, is your powersupply up to the task of running a video card and such?

Good news (for me)! I was wrong about my PSU being 300w and it is actually 400w. Would that be enough?

No problem. First thing I would do before spending money is try to unlock your X2 to an X4 B45.

For $100 I'd suggest looking at used GPUs but as I said see first about unlocking your CPU.


I'm going to do this right now. Wish me luck.

BTW, I have one more question. I have 2 gigs of RAM in there but I'm thinking I might want to throw some more in. I'm a little confused as to the layout of my mobo though. I have the two sticks in the yellow mem slots in this pic:
C00nrRmC4B5mXIRA_500.jpg

But what's different about the black memory slots? I'm looking here but I still don't understand: http://uk.asus.com/Motherboards/AMD_AM2Plus/M4N78_PRO/#specifications .

Thanks
 

knitoe

Member
They really don't. QoS is a per packet or port based policy not automagically setup. And yes lots of people live in an environment with 10+ wireless networks, 2.4Ghz phones, microwaves, in apartments and condos. I understand it works for you but to manage the expectations of all the other gaffers they need to understand that wireless is not the best solution all the time. If you want to continue with anecdotal evidence my gf can't talk on skype over wireless sitting 6 ft from the wireless AP with 1 paper wall in between because her apartment has about 20 wireless networks in the area. I sit 20ft from my wireless router and can't get signal from it because there is a concrete wall in between. At my lake house wireless won't penetrate more than 2 wood walls before dying. It is very very very situationally dependent

All I'm saying is wireless is great for internet, youtube, tablets and phones and any other non latency dependant uses. For gaming it doesn't matter if your ping is 2 or 52 ms, if your jitter is 8ms games will be enjoyable and jitter at 15ms is unplayable. A wire, even power line, is preferable unless you can be 100% sure that your wireless signal is strong and there is little interference.
My Dlink 655, Linksys e4200, and now, Asus AC66U all have QoS set to auto. Even a wired connection can be shit if all your bandwidth is being used. If you gf has 2.4GHz interference, tell her to go 5GHz. Better yet, set it up for her. And, yes, depending on the situation, wired, wireless or powerline could be the better solution.

As I already mention, I don't have issues gaming and I can bet there are millions like me.
 

Sorral

Member
Did you not watch the video? Nobody home environment is close to the situation they are testing, shit loads of other networks interfering, through 12 walls and etc. They even mention it in the video. When it comes to the almost nil difference, yes, wired >powerline>wireless. I tried all three. Same >2.0 K/D ratio in CoD TDM. And, all new routers have QoS on auto. You don't need to set it up unless you want to get your hands dirty.
The only thing you prove is you are wrong about "5-75ms" on wireless.

What scogoth said about the 5ms and above isn't far fetched. I went and pinged a lot of times before I watched that video and before he said that. Apparently, The NCIX guy pings the same way as I do in cmd. Anyway, this may not be up to 75ms(thankfully) but it is an example without doing anything else on the network:

dD56ldz.jpg


Done more, almost the same. It may not change anything for you. But for me, if I was already in a gaming lobby that's almost 100ms, then I really don't want another 5~20 added to it. I actually do tend to notice it quite a bit.
 

knitoe

Member
What scogoth said about the 5ms and above isn't far fetched. I went and pinged a lot of times before I watched that video and before he said that. Apparently, The NCIX guy pings the same way as I do in cmd. Anyway, this may not be up to 75ms(thankfully) but it is an example without doing anything else on the network:

dD56ldz.jpg


Done more, almost the same. It may not change anything for you. But for me, if I was already in a gaming lobby that's almost 100ms, then I really don't want another 5~20 added to it. I actually do tend to notice it quite a bit.

Yeah. Too much fluctuations. What wireless setup? 2.4 or 5GHz? Distance? Have you tried different channels?
 

inky

Member
Run an OCCT / FURMark test and check the temps (Might be good to clean out CPU and GPU fans and heatsinks)
I'd inspect your motherboard for any burst or bulging capacitors
Then unplug and replug everything (PSU power, wall plug, 24 pin, 8 pin, GPU, RAM, HDD power, SATA, etc.)
Run a memtest 86+ for RAM and a SMART diagnostic for your HDD

Work from there as your PSU should be MORE than capable.

Hi, these are the things I've done to check the system so far:

- Ran Furmark with both my 560 and my old 9800: 560 freezes almost immediately, in fact yesterday it froze just by having it connected to the system and launching it. Max temp during this was 50°C. 9800 freezes about 75% done, max temp 71°C. I checked using GPU-Z (today)
- Changed Nvidia drivers, even going to old releases (yesterday)
- Tried connecting the card using only Molex to 6-pin adapters to see if it maybe was a cable problem, but it didn't make a difference.
- Tried different sata connectors for the drives and changing to the other 12v 4-pin connector for the Mobo.
- Tried disabling Nvidia HD Audio drivers (the ones that control audio coming out from the card) as I read they could conflict with the Realtek drivers and cause hang-ups and freezes (yesterday)
- Everything is super clean. When I put the system back together about a month ago I took my case apart and cleaned it, including the GPU and PSU that I was reusing. I think I was very thorough with this. (I checked today again, I have the GPU out so I can see clearly and no more dust comes out from it).
- I ran Real Temp today (LINK) and as you can see the highest the CPU ever got at 100% load was 60°C. It completed the test without a problem. I also ran memtest 86+ for the better part of today (1 got 2x4GB) 1 stick at a time, 2 passes each and it didn't present any errors. Should I let this go on for longer?
- I did try the quick Check for System Errors in the win 7 computer management tools, but 'll look for something more thorough. I have 3 HDDs connected right now, 1 SSD (new) and 2xWD 500GB. Launching with just the SSD connected in and the system is still unstable (today)
- I've had the computer running today (aside from the testing) with integrated graphics and it seems fine. I'll try running FURmark with the IG I guess.

I'll also try disconnecting everything again, and taking out the motherboard to check for bulging or burst caps (i didn't catch any at a glance) and try to connect everything back in. I'll download OCCT but I don't know if I'll get that far into testing, and I'm afraid it might screw the PSU for good and I don't have a replacement here yet. I ordered the CX600M already.

I asked because I'm really out of ideas, as I've been checking all that stuff and it basically comes down to this: It started with the system freezing when under heavy load (mainly games, no BSOD), but now it freezes with just having the 560ti in. With the 9800 GT in I can launch some stuff, but after a while it freezes too. now I'm running it with only IG and it seems OK with non-intensive stuff. I tried launching Diablo 3 and fooling around for 20 mins and it didn't crash.

I've had some video cards go bad before so in my experience those issues manifest differently, so the only thing I can think of is the PSU is no longer up to task (it's been working for 5 years now after all). The thing that bugs me is that my new processor i5-3330 should draw less power than the one I had before, a Core2Quad, and everything else is relatively the same and had been running fine for a month.

Thanks for your input and I welcome any more opinions or ideas on this if anyone has any, I know it's probably asking too much to read these walls. (link to my older post)
 

kennah

Member
Good news (for me)! I was wrong about my PSU being 300w and it is actually 400w. Would that be enough?




I'm going to do this right now. Wish me luck.

BTW, I have one more question. I have 2 gigs of RAM in there but I'm thinking I might want to throw some more in. I'm a little confused as to the layout of my mobo though. I have the two sticks in the yellow mem slots in this pic:
C00nrRmC4B5mXIRA_500.jpg

But what's different about the black memory slots? I'm looking here but I still don't understand: http://uk.asus.com/Motherboards/AMD_AM2Plus/M4N78_PRO/#specifications .

Thanks

Nothing weird and special about the slots. Ram should be put in in pairs to work at top speed is all. Optimally all your ram should match but it isn't 100% necessary.

What is the specific model of your power supply? Can you take a picture of the sticker on the side of it if you don't know?
 

Sorral

Member
Oh, yes. Jitter is the term.
As for QoS, it isn't really something that's always on or that everyone uses. I kept finding it off or having to tweak it after dealing with my infrastructure classes.

Yeah. Too much fluctuations. What wireless setup? 2.4 or 5GHz? Distance? Have you tried different channels?

Just a measly Linksys E1200, 2.4 and the laptop is only 10ft away.
We have over 25 networks in this apartments building -_- can't really change to 5 because of my cellphones, vita, printer, etc around the place as well.
 

knitoe

Member
Oh, yes. Jitter is the term.
As for QoS, it isn't really something that's always on or that everyone uses. I kept finding it off or having to tweak it after dealing with my infrastructure classes.



Just a measly Linksys E1200, 2.4 and the laptop is only 10ft away.
We have over 25 networks in this apartments building -_- can't really change to 5 because of my cellphones, vita, printer, etc around the place as well.
Not all routers perform the same. Thus, have you tried high end routers since powerlines and wired doesn't seem cost effective or feasible for your needs?
 
Nothing weird and special about the slots. Ram should be put in in pairs to work at top speed is all. Optimally all your ram should match but it isn't 100% necessary.

What is the specific model of your power supply? Can you take a picture of the sticker on the side of it if you don't know?
Unfortunately I have nowhere to host the pic but what the sticker says is:
Enhance Electronics Co., ltd
Model: ATX-0140G
400 WATT
RoHS compliant
400W max

There's also AC input and DC output info.

Could I put two sticks of 2gb of ram if I wanted, even though they wouldn't match the 1gb sticks I have?
 

Sorral

Member
Not all routers perform the same. Thus, have you tried high end routers since powerlines and wired doesn't seem cost effective or feasible for your needs?

I think I may have given the wrong impression. Sorry for that. This router is more than enough for all the devices I listed while PC gaming is covered with an ethernet cable under 10ft long (cost effective + feasible.)
The latency talk spurred when I was thinking that maybe you meant that there is a wifi card good enough to not have jitters and be relatively cheap. I do not need to change my network drastically when I can just do this.
 

Hazaro

relies on auto-aim
Hi, these are the things I've done to check the system so far:
...

I've had some video cards go bad before so in my experience those issues manifest differently, so the only thing I can think of is the PSU is no longer up to task (it's been working for 5 years now after all). The thing that bugs me is that my new processor i5-3330 should draw less power than the one I had before, a Core2Quad, and everything else is relatively the same and had been running fine for a month.

Thanks for your input and I welcome any more opinions or ideas on this if anyone has any, I know it's probably asking too much to read these walls. (link to my older post)
Sounds like a PSU problem to me (Although it could be mobo, PSU is easier to test).
RMA your unit if you can. Would have suggested a BP550. Didn't find any reviews of the CX600M unit at a glance, but I'm sure it's fine, just not as good a value ;)
Unfortunately I have nowhere to host the pic but what the sticker says is:
Enhance Electronics Co., ltd
Model: ATX-0140G
400 WATT
RoHS compliant
400W max

There's also AC input and DC output info.

Could I put two sticks of 2gb of ram if I wanted, even though they wouldn't match the 1gb sticks I have?
Should be fine with that PSU. There are worse units than Enhance OEM.
You can mix and match but they will run at the slowest speed and not in dual channel if they aren't matched per pair. It's not advised.
 

kennah

Member
Unfortunately I have nowhere to host the pic but what the sticker says is:
Enhance Electronics Co., ltd
Model: ATX-0140G
400 WATT
RoHS compliant
400W max

There's also AC input and DC output info.

Could I put two sticks of 2gb of ram if I wanted, even though they wouldn't match the 1gb sticks I have?

Dc output is what we are looking for please continue.

And yep to the RAM.try to get stuff the same speed as you have now
 

Hazaro

relies on auto-aim
Dc output is what we are looking for please continue.

And yep to the RAM.try to get stuff the same speed as you have now
It's a 12V supply with 14A+13A on 12V and a max draw of 130W on the 3.3V and 5V so it should be adequate.
 
No problem. First thing I would do before spending money is try to unlock your X2 to an X4 B45.

For $100 I'd suggest looking at used GPUs but as I said see first about unlocking your CPU.

Holy crap, it worked. That was incredibly easy. It went from Phenom II "X2 545" to "X4 B45" and it's showing up as 4 cores now.
Everything seems to be working well but I'll run a stress test over night to make sure.

How good is X4 B45 as a processor?

(Thanks to everyone for all the knowledge and advice)
 
It's a 12V supply with 14A+13A on 12V and a max draw of 130W on the 3.3V and 5V so it should be adequate.

I just want to confirm I checked the sticker and this is accurate.

And yep to the RAM.try to get stuff the same speed as you have now

OK cool. So I'll get the same speed (which I'll have to check but I don't feel like opening up my case again today :) and make sure the two new sticks match each other and stick them in the two black slots. I guess I'll get two new 2gb bring it up to a total of 6gb.
 

inky

Member
Sounds like a PSU problem to me (Although it could be mobo, PSU is easier to test).
RMA your unit if you can. Would have suggested a BP550. Didn't find any reviews of the CX600M unit at a glance, but I'm sure it's fine, just not as good a value ;)

I saw the Antec you suggested, and even checked out a OCZ Pro 600W on Amazon too, but I'm in Mexico and I'm ordering this online (I've read generally favorable reviews on Newegg and similar places). The Corsair one is the only one that ships here and my local stores only have overpriced 700W+ Cooler Masters and other brands I've never heard of, and I'd rather have good customer support in case anything happens. And in this case shipping costs are actually not that bad. I'll see about RMAing the old one, just need to check my warranty papers and stuff.

Thanks again =)
 

Hazaro

relies on auto-aim
I saw the Antec you suggested, and even checked out a OCZ Pro 600W on Amazon too, but I'm in Mexico and I'm ordering this online (I've read generally favorable reviews on Newegg and similar places). The Corsair one is the only one that ships here and my local stores only have overpriced 700W+ Cooler Masters and other brands I've never heard of, and I'd rather have good customer support in case anything happens. And in this case shipping costs are actually not that bad. I'll see about RMAing the old one, just need to check my warranty papers and stuff.

Thanks again =)
Ah ok. User reviews on PSUs = It worked, it didn't work, it exploded, or it makes noise. But Corsair doesn't really put out any 'bad' products.

Real testing goes on with thousand dollar load testing machines in environments that actually test them and can see how power is delivered. See: Sites in OP.
 

Hazaro

relies on auto-aim
That is true. FWIW I did check this: http://www.hardwaresecrets.com/article/Corsair-CX430-Power-Supply-Review/1200 but I don't really understand half of what is being said there, and is kind of outdated. I was just going for overall general reliability: 80+ certified, not many instances of having to send one back, but I've been learning a lot these past few days.
I was just bringing up a distinction, that's all. And each supply (even in a series) needs to be verified that they didn't swap OEMs or cut corners for that specific model. It's something that Rosewill didn't clear up at all for a long time and now only with their nice HIVE and GREEN models are people coming back to using them.
I'm sure the CX600M is fine.
 

Witchfinder General

punched Wheelchair Mike
My plan is to use my PC instead of a console. I'm surprised there isn't a thread on GAF for people specifically doing that. The closest I can find is this one: http://67.227.255.239/forum/showthread.php?t=472732 but that's more for the Alienware X51 specifically. Does anyone else use their gaming PCs hooked up to their TVs? Do you game mostly with a keyboard and mouse or a controller?

Yeah, I comfy-couch it. I play 99% with a 360 controller.
 

kharma45

Member
Haven't seen any frametimes from Crysis 3, but the 3570k still beats the 8350 in minimum FPS. When a thread chugs you still need a powerful core (single threaded performance) taking care of it.

No frame times but you can get FPS (sorry mkenyon) for it and Far Cry 3 where AMD does extremely well



Holy crap, it worked. That was incredibly easy. It went from Phenom II "X2 545" to "X4 B45" and it's showing up as 4 cores now.
Everything seems to be working well but I'll run a stress test over night to make sure.

How good is X4 B45 as a processor?

(Thanks to everyone for all the knowledge and advice)

Take a look at the graphs above to see the jumps for example in Crysis 3 and FC3. I'm glad it worked well for you, your CPU is much less of a bottleneck now. You can overclock too but I would stay away from that unless you upgrade your PSU and have a good cooler.

At least you can now look for a GPU. Did you say you were based in Japan? One last thing about your CPU, did the L3 cache get unlocked OK?
 
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