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"I need a New PC!" 2013 Part 1. Haswell, Crysis 3, and secret fairy sauce. Read da OP
- Thread starter Hazaro
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Why are you getting Ivy and why are you getting a 1000w psu?Quoted for new page!!! Heading to micro centre now
Skel1ingt0n
I can't *believe* these lazy developers keep making file sizes so damn large. Btw, how does technology work?
This
+ This
= one very sexy lanbox...
+ This
= one very sexy lanbox...
In reference to this post...
In my P8P67-M bios, I don't have the option for editing "VCore", I honest to God can't find it. So, about OFFSET, do I use the same numbers as kinote recommended for VCore, just in the OFFSET section?
In my P8P67-M bios, I don't have the option for editing "VCore", I honest to God can't find it. So, about OFFSET, do I use the same numbers as kinote recommended for VCore, just in the OFFSET section?
Yes. Wondering when that case is coming out. Want to build that for my brothers birthday.This
+ This
= one very sexy lanbox...
Ok. So in that case...I can't any options to edit Vcore. I've searched all over for it.
It should just be listed as CPU Voltage. iirc, it's right above offset in BIOS for the ASUS P67 stuff.
http://hardforum.com/showthread.php?t=1578110
Yep.
Because of Haskell disaappintmentton and because I have had this PSU for years. Nt getting another one.
What motherboard should I get.
No, you want the VCore to be 1.35V. If you can manually input 1.35V, it more easy, but the VCore will stay at that input number idle or under load. Thus, it's better to use OFFSET, but it's much more complicated to use. Settings that add voltage: default (1.10V?) +-OFFSET +LLC(%) +phase control(%) +etc. First, don't OC CPU, leave OFFSET 0, set the other settings using lowest/lower options. Startup Windows, run monitoring programs and Prime95 to see what the VCore is. Now, you have your VCore number. Now, use OFFSET to bring the VCore to 1.35V. It will tie you a few tries to get it right. Then, OC the CPU 4.4GHz and test with Prime95 for 10min. If stable, try going to 4.5-4.7GHz. Retest with Prime95 each time. If crash, go lower until you find the perfect stable OC speed, voltage and temps.
Now that's worrying...
In just that first screen everything on mine matches up until OC Tuner. I don't have that. After that I only have Load Line Calibration, nothing underneath that. And when you get to voltage, I only have Offest, DRAM, VCCIO, and PCH.
That's weird and annoying as hell. ???
The ASUS or the MSI Z77A-G45
Thanks! I totally noob when it comes to motherboards. What do these choices provide over the others?
Purely for my own curiosity
Infinite Justice
Member
Yeah, it was the early ones that had OC issues. They remedied that on the Gaming release, which is why I was looking closely at the Z87 ones as potential great buys.You are recommending MSI Z77's now?
Also, tentative Haswell update, which will remain separate of the main build guide until we have some better information on how the Z87 motherboards pan out.
Duh. Haha, took me a while, but I JUST understood all of this, alright. Ok so I loaded my default settings at the bios and after 10 minutes of Prime95, my core voltage seems to be about 1.22V.
Now, what are the values that I should start with in the Offset field to bring up my voltage?
Is this "gaming" one the one that comes bundled in the link I posted?
Different MB have different OFFSET increments. Just slowing increase the +OFFSET until you hit 1.35V. After a few tries, you will know how much each increment adds to the VCore. Once you hit 1.35V, time to OC the CPU. Try 4.2-4.5GHZ. If stable, try even higher.
Ok, great. Thank you so much to you and mkenyon. Will update on my progress.
Brilliant. Thanks!
bryan12112
Member
I decided on the MSI Z87-G45 and i5 4670k, so it's good to see those parts in the tentative Haswell update. I realize it's early, though. Just gonna hope for the best.
So, I'm in the market for a new desktop which I plan to build within the next week or two.
Current Specs: I'm using a laptop for all my needs at the moment, and it hasn't been cutting it for a while. It has an i7 720QM @ 1.6ghz, 4GB RAM, GTX 260M and a 500gb hard drive. Pretty much anything will be an upgrade.
Budget: I'm in the UK with a budget of around £1500-£1600 or so all inclusive with OS, monitor and keyboard/mouse.
Main Uses: Gaming, general usage, and some fairly heavy Photoshop/Lightroom activity with large RAW files.
This will be my first self built desktop, with my only hardware experience being limited to installing new memory and graphics cards. With regards to overclocking, a firm maybe on that front. I'm looking at a 4770k for my processor but other options are welcome.
Few caveats, I have my mind set on an ASUS VG248QE monitor and a GTX 780 as well as an SSD for OS and a few other programs.
Everything else is up for grabs.
Current Specs: I'm using a laptop for all my needs at the moment, and it hasn't been cutting it for a while. It has an i7 720QM @ 1.6ghz, 4GB RAM, GTX 260M and a 500gb hard drive. Pretty much anything will be an upgrade.
Budget: I'm in the UK with a budget of around £1500-£1600 or so all inclusive with OS, monitor and keyboard/mouse.
Main Uses: Gaming, general usage, and some fairly heavy Photoshop/Lightroom activity with large RAW files.
This will be my first self built desktop, with my only hardware experience being limited to installing new memory and graphics cards. With regards to overclocking, a firm maybe on that front. I'm looking at a 4770k for my processor but other options are welcome.
Few caveats, I have my mind set on an ASUS VG248QE monitor and a GTX 780 as well as an SSD for OS and a few other programs.
Everything else is up for grabs.
Roland1979
Junior Member
Planning to build a gaming PC. Budget around 1000,= with some flexibility.
NeoGAF please help/comment/advise. Thank you.
Case: Fractal Design Define R4
Case Fans: Corsair SP120 (High) Performance Edition / efficient 140mm fans (5 or 6)
PSU: CoolerMaster Silent Pro Gold 600W
MoBo: ASRock Z77 Extreme4
CPU: Intel Core i5-3570K
CPU Fan: Noctua NH-D14
GPU: Radeon HD 7950 Boost
SPU: Creative Sound Blaster Recon3D
RAM: 2x8 GB Corsair Vengeance 1600 MHz 9-9-9-24 1.5V
SSD: Samsung 840 Series 250 GB
HDD: not decided/buy later, SSD will do for a while
NeoGAF please help/comment/advise. Thank you.
Case: Fractal Design Define R4
Case Fans: Corsair SP120 (High) Performance Edition / efficient 140mm fans (5 or 6)
PSU: CoolerMaster Silent Pro Gold 600W
MoBo: ASRock Z77 Extreme4
CPU: Intel Core i5-3570K
CPU Fan: Noctua NH-D14
GPU: Radeon HD 7950 Boost
SPU: Creative Sound Blaster Recon3D
RAM: 2x8 GB Corsair Vengeance 1600 MHz 9-9-9-24 1.5V
SSD: Samsung 840 Series 250 GB
HDD: not decided/buy later, SSD will do for a while
Would you be prepared to drop the DVD drive to get a better CPU like the Athlon 750K?
What version of Photoshop are you using?
Don't get the Extreme4, the MSI GD55/65 or Biostar TZ77XE3/XE4 are better buys.
I'd look to Seasonic or XFX for your PSU too, I would have more faith in them.
Swap the Extreme 4 for the MSI G45 Gaming or ASUS V-LK.
Corsair SP's are for radiator/heatsink duty. AF's are for case airflow. The high performance ones are quite loud, you'd want to go with the Quiet Editions. But, the stock fans will do fine with airflow.
Recon3D is a really bad sound card, get the Sound Blaster Z.
NH-D14 is outclassed by Noctua's recent 120mm options.
Everything else looks good!
Roland1979
Junior Member
Thank you, you seem to know your stuff.
Will the MSI G45 Gaming or ASUS V-LK also do well with overclocking?
Stock fans I will use but I don't think they give you enough, so I have to buy like 2 more probably?
Soundcard is not really important to me but will look into that (otherwise I would just use onboard right?).
NH-D14 Has a really good name. Is there a new one that already has build some reputation?
How much more expensive are the newer ones? And is there some hard numbers comparing the NH-D14 with newer ones?
How are those "heatpipes" on the newer ones? Is fan the most important thing on it?
Again, thnx for helping! You too kharma45!
mattiewheels
And then the LORD David Bowie saith to his Son, Jonny Depp: 'Go, and spread my image amongst the cosmos. For every living thing is in anguish and only the LIGHT shall give them reprieve.'
mattiewheels said:
I wasn't overclocking, but the fact that it happened right after a new CPU made me wonder. Well I got lucky, since all I did was pop in a new Corsair 700W and everything runs as normal. I'm shocked since that mini explosion seemed pretty damaging when it happened. Old PSU smelled awful when I took it out, I wish I knew exactly what caused it to blow up.
NP.
Yeah, both of those are fine for overclocking with an air cooler.
Onboard sound might be fine, it's up to you.
http://www.techpowerup.com/reviews/Noctua/NH-U12S/
It's a bit less expensive than the D14.
As long as it is stable, and temperatures are oaky, then yes.
Yep, IBT says it's stable, and temps are great across the board. Going to OC now. Will probably start with 4.4GHz.
theSlacker
Member
Ah Computex. The time of the year where I have to constantly remind myself that I don't really need new or high end computer parts.
So has Noctua shown off another D series cooler that they are not going to release again yet?
Only reason to watch him I think. Even if his reviews tend to gloss over faults of certain companies he at least shows off just about every single thing about the cases he reviews in clear detail with measurements along the way. Needs to go back to more case reviews and less other stuff.
My man. Been like 7 years on mine and still see no reason to change it even with all the new stuff that comes out. Damn good mouse pad.
So has Noctua shown off another D series cooler that they are not going to release again yet?
Only reason to watch him I think. Even if his reviews tend to gloss over faults of certain companies he at least shows off just about every single thing about the cases he reviews in clear detail with measurements along the way. Needs to go back to more case reviews and less other stuff.
My man. Been like 7 years on mine and still see no reason to change it even with all the new stuff that comes out. Damn good mouse pad.
If I wanted to upgrade (after the first upgrade) down the line, what would be the ideal w for two 770s? Any particular 770 stick out from the rest?
Edit - It's 700w, which I imagine is more than enough for one 770.
Grand job, was just wonder as anything pre-CS4 didn't support OpenGL. Not that it matters anyway as I forgot you wanted a 780.
Anyway, look along the lines of this. Ends up over budget though :\
Could always cut back on the case and on the PSU, to say a Bitfenix Shinobi and a smaller SSD to get it within £1600
You're plenty good with that PSU.
Even for two?
Roland1979
Junior Member
NH-U14S
Isn't this a better choice? Since the price difference seems really small between NH-U12S and NH-U14S.
theSlacker
Member
Are you sure you don't mean the 140mm options? Pretty sure it still beats the u12s(even with two fans), but the u14s can give it a run for the money until a higher overclock.
Just a bit, but with two fans it would be around the same if not more. Can get the d14 for less then the u14s as well I think, even before buying a second fan. If the d14 still cost around $100 it may be a better value, but think its going around at $75 now.
http://www.guru3d.com/articles_pages/noctua_nh_u12s_u14s_review,1.html
Another review that shows them alongside the d14 and at higher overclocks/voltages. Could also just be a difference in reviewers showing different results, as well as difference in the level of overclock between the two reviews.
Sorry to keep hounding away with my OC questions, but here's another one.
So I boot up at 4.4GHz and at idle my Core Voltage hovered right around 1.350V. Now, here I am running IntelBurnTest and the highest I've seen it go on CoreVoltage is 1.320V. Is this alright/acceptable for an OC?
ITB says I'm stable...
EDIT: After ITB finished the Voltage went back up to fluctuating between 1.344 and 1.352. Is this normal?
So I boot up at 4.4GHz and at idle my Core Voltage hovered right around 1.350V. Now, here I am running IntelBurnTest and the highest I've seen it go on CoreVoltage is 1.320V. Is this alright/acceptable for an OC?
ITB says I'm stable...
EDIT: After ITB finished the Voltage went back up to fluctuating between 1.344 and 1.352. Is this normal?
Yeah, that happens.
Volts are only a consideration if you blue screen (not enough volts) or if your temps are too high (too much volts). Every processor is going to require different amounts of volts at different frequencies due to silicon lottery.
smokeandmirrors
Banned
Have a budget of $270-300. Already replaced PSU (Corsair 600w), GPU (HD 7870 I just bought), Case (just bought a NZXT Source 210. Cheap and effective) and already have two hdd's and a monitor. Need Motherboard and CPU.
a) any need to upgrade my ram if it's fine? I suppose it would behoove me to purchase non OEM ram since that'll be the last piece of an old gifted PC. 8gb of something. Fairly cheap to get 8gb or even jump to 16gb. Plan for gaming and development stuff.
b) No plans on overclocking, really. Motherboard:http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B007R9CRGW/?tag=neogaf0e-20 as a motherboard? Don't need anything fancy tbh. And is it going to be a pain in the ass to transfer my windows license over? unfortunately it's an OEM key I have and there is absolutely no way in hell I'm going to buy a new license for windows at those prices.
c) CPU: http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0093H8NBY/?tag=neogaf0e-20
I know integrated graphics are disabled for this model, but it's relatively cheap and I already have an HD 7870...
or http://www.amazon.com/dp/B0087EVHVW/?tag=neogaf0e-20 for $20 extra?
a) any need to upgrade my ram if it's fine? I suppose it would behoove me to purchase non OEM ram since that'll be the last piece of an old gifted PC. 8gb of something. Fairly cheap to get 8gb or even jump to 16gb. Plan for gaming and development stuff.
b) No plans on overclocking, really. Motherboard:http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B007R9CRGW/?tag=neogaf0e-20 as a motherboard? Don't need anything fancy tbh. And is it going to be a pain in the ass to transfer my windows license over? unfortunately it's an OEM key I have and there is absolutely no way in hell I'm going to buy a new license for windows at those prices.
c) CPU: http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0093H8NBY/?tag=neogaf0e-20
I know integrated graphics are disabled for this model, but it's relatively cheap and I already have an HD 7870...
or http://www.amazon.com/dp/B0087EVHVW/?tag=neogaf0e-20 for $20 extra?
Ok. So...can I go for it then and just keep an eye on temps and everything?
ThoseDeafMutes
Member
Is 600w enough for a single 780, or hypothetically an 880 + high range ivy?
Easily
Appreciate it, thanks. At hat point if I'm going all out on a second 770, I probably should just bit the bullet and upgrade the PSU.
Finally, any 770 special over another / the rest?
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