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"I need a New PC!" 2013 Part 1. Haswell, Crysis 3, and secret fairy sauce. Read da OP

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a) If you hit your RAM limit just buy more. I thought I was fine on 8GB until I hit over that while exporting a rendered 1080p video.

b) I'd really really suggest a Z77 board since you can fit it in your budget like an AS Rock Pro 4

c) And....... you say you aren't overclocking, but the way things are seemingly lining up the CPU and Mobo you buy now will probably last you at least 2-3 years being top end. Imo it's better to spend a touch more and have the option of 25% more performance.

That said, your parts listed are fine. (Glanced at mobo, have the ASRock B75 PRO3 in the OP)

I suppose I could overclock when I feel like it but its not a priority.

9hZY7Yr.png


Is what I got. That should be sufficient I think, right?
 

Hazaro

relies on auto-aim
I wanted to stay on the close side of 400$ when I get the rest of it. I've already bought the video card and SSD, so the only thing left is...the majority of the parts.

CPU: Intel Core i5-3570K 3.4GHz Quad-Core Processor ($219.99 @ Amazon)
CPU Cooler: Cooler Master Hyper 212 Plus 76.8 CFM Sleeve Bearing CPU Cooler ($19.99 @ Newegg)
Motherboard: ASRock Z77 Pro4 ATX LGA1155 Motherboard ($94.99 @ Newegg)
Memory: Corsair Vengeance 8GB (2 x 4GB) DDR3-1600 Memory ($69.99 @ Amazon)
Storage: Samsung 840 Series 120GB 2.5" Solid State Disk (Purchased)
Video Card: ECS GeForce GTX 550 Ti 1GB Video Card
Case: NZXT Source 210 (White) ATX Mid Tower Case ($39.99 @ Amazon)
Power Supply: Antec 450W ATX12V Power Supply ($39.15 @ NCIX US)
Total: $484.10

So this? 20 dollars more than the brand new CPU version.

Overclocking is better than getting a haswell is what you're saying?

The B75 motherboard doesn't do overclocking right? That's what I'm paying for on the Z77 correct?
Ah, didn't know you got the GPU already. Well, that's something to upgrade later :)
You can get some Ballistix or G.Skill ram for $60
Yes, on Z77.
 

Smash88

Banned
Got my backplate on and cables tied.

Tomorrow I'm OCing.

RqKX75ul.jpg


3pzDtDrl.jpg


Thanks again everyone.

Side note: Shame I'm getting shitty frames in Company of Heroes 2, even with such a crazy high-end build.
 

Hazaro

relies on auto-aim
About to purchase my first rig, how is it?

PCPartPicker part list / Price breakdown by merchant / Benchmarks

CPU: Intel Core i7-4770K 3.5GHz Quad-Core Processor ($279.99 @ Microcenter)
CPU Cooler: Cooler Master Hyper 212 Plus 76.8 CFM Sleeve Bearing CPU Cooler ($19.99 @ Newegg)
Motherboard: ASRock Z87 Extreme4 ATX LGA1150 Motherboard ($159.99 @ Newegg)
Memory: G.Skill Ripjaws X Series 16GB (2 x 8GB) DDR3-1600 Memory ($103.50 @ Newegg)
Storage: Western Digital Caviar Blue 1TB 3.5" 7200RPM Internal Hard Drive ($64.98 @ Outlet PC)
Storage: Western Digital Caviar Blue 1TB 3.5" 7200RPM Internal Hard Drive ($64.98 @ Outlet PC)
Video Card: Asus GeForce GTX 670 2GB Video Card ($379.99 @ Newegg)
Case: Fractal Design Define R4 (Black Pearl) ATX Mid Tower Case ($84.99 @ Microcenter)
Power Supply: SeaSonic 620W 80 PLUS Bronze Certified ATX12V / EPS12V Power Supply ($88.98 @ SuperBiiz)
Optical Drive: Asus BW-14D1XT Blu-Ray/DVD/CD Writer ($84.99 @ NCIX US)
Total: $1327.87
(Prices include shipping, taxes, and discounts when available.)
(Generated by PCPartPicker 2013-06-05 00:38 EDT-0400)
Change that 670 to a 770 or 7970 / 7950, or wait a week for some 760Ti info.

Get the 212 EVO. Haswell runs stupid hot. If you actually want to overclock it you need water. It's that bad.

SeaSonic G Series SSR-550RM or M12II 650W for PSU.
I suppose I could overclock when I feel like it but its not a priority.

9hZY7Yr.png


Is what I got. That should be sufficient I think, right?
There (should) be at least 2 SATA calbes with your motherboard. You need a 'K' CPU and a Z77 mobo to overclock which is why I mention it.
If you don't get those now for an extra $100 you'll spend on an entirely new CPU and motherboard later. I don't think it's worth it, plus you get the power now.

That said those parts will still last you a solid good while. You have the mATX Pro 4 version picked there, if it has all the ports/features you need (It probably does) than that's fine.
Man deciding on a new monitor is hard. I've spent more time on this than the rest of the build lol.
144Hz panel. Easy.
 

Gromph

This tag is currently undergoing scheduled maintenance...
Staff Member
Hello,

A case where two 580 with artic cooling in SLI can fit?

Don't want a uber big case ;)
 

LAUGHTREY

Modesty becomes a woman
Ah, didn't know you got the GPU already. Well, that's something to upgrade later :)
You can get some Ballistix or G.Skill ram for $60
Yes, on Z77.

The idea of buying something older that's way more expensive for overclocking (which I've never done) seems both dumb and terrifying.

I hate computers. I think I may do this. I'm gonna watch the overclocking video in OP and try to decide.
 

Hazaro

relies on auto-aim
The idea of buying something older that's way more expensive for overclocking (which I've never done) seems both dumb and terrifying.

I hate computers. I think I may do this. I'm gonna watch the overclocking video in OP and try to decide.
If computers were advancing like they used to I'd agree.

However the gains from both sides in the past 3 years have been pretty marginal. The 2600K I have now was made in 2010, but since it's overclocked it's still 20% faster than a stock Intel $350 4770K.
Haswell overclocks the same as Ivy, while using more power, generating more heat, and running about 30C hotter under load. On top of a new $30 CPU tax and $30 mobo tax.

Ivy right now is just a better value proposition, no questions.
 

Blizzard

Banned
Going to order now. After reading some of the terrifying Caviar Black reviews I'm afraid I'm just going with Caviar Blues. At least maybe one of them will be reliable. :p

PCPartPicker part list: http://pcpartpicker.com/p/138yd
Price breakdown by merchant: http://pcpartpicker.com/p/138yd/by_merchant/
Benchmarks: http://pcpartpicker.com/p/138yd/benchmarks/

CPU: Intel Core i5-3570K 3.4GHz Quad-Core Processor ($219.99 @ Amazon)
CPU Cooler: Cooler Master Hyper 212 Plus 76.8 CFM Sleeve Bearing CPU Cooler ($19.99 @ Newegg)
Motherboard: MSI Z77A-GD55 ATX LGA1155 Motherboard ($124.98 @ Outlet PC)
Memory: Corsair XMS3 8GB (2 x 4GB) DDR3-1600 Memory ($72.99 @ Amazon)
Storage: Western Digital Caviar Blue 1TB 3.5" 7200RPM Internal Hard Drive ($64.99 @ Amazon)
Storage: Western Digital Caviar Blue 1TB 3.5" 7200RPM Internal Hard Drive ($64.99 @ Amazon)
Video Card: EVGA GeForce GTX 770 2GB Video Card ($419.99 @ Amazon)
Case: Cooler Master HAF 912 ATX Mid Tower Case ($49.99 @ Newegg)
Power Supply: Corsair Builder 750W 80 PLUS Bronze Certified ATX12V / EPS12V Power Supply ($79.99 @ Newegg)
Optical Drive: Lite-On iHAS124-04 DVD/CD Writer ($14.98 @ Outlet PC)
Operating System: Microsoft Windows 7 Home Premium SP1 (OEM) (64-bit) ($89.94 @ Outlet PC)
Total: $1222.82
(Prices include shipping, taxes, and discounts when available.)
(Generated by PCPartPicker 2013-06-05 01:24 EDT-0400)

I was hoping to hit $1000-1200, so I'm ultra over budget especially considering I still need to get a good wireless router, and will eventually want a new monitor as well. =( If it doesn't work out perhaps I will learn some lessons along the way however.
 

Smokey

Member
MKENYON PLS

Therein lies the problem lol. I'm more inclined to the former atm.

I have both. I prefer the colors and size of my IPS panel, but 120hz does make a big difference especially if you are into online fps. If you're not into competitive play and want a "wow" factor when it comes to graphics, then I'd go with a IPS panel.
 

Hazaro

relies on auto-aim
Going to order now. After reading some of the terrifying Caviar Black reviews I'm afraid I'm just going with Caviar Blues. At least maybe one of them will be reliable. :p

PCPartPicker part list: http://pcpartpicker.com/p/138yd
Price breakdown by merchant: http://pcpartpicker.com/p/138yd/by_merchant/
Benchmarks: http://pcpartpicker.com/p/138yd/benchmarks/

I was hoping to hit $1000-1200, so I'm ultra over budget especially considering I still need to get a good wireless router, and will eventually want a new monitor as well. =( If it doesn't work out perhaps I will learn some lessons along the way however.
Get a 760Ti then
 

Blizzard

Banned
Get a 760Ti then
Hold up, 760Ti > 770 in temperature, performance, quietness, and reliability? But 770 is like, 10 more!

*googles* Oh, the 760Ti apparently isn't out yet? I'm rolling with the 770 then, it's not that big of a deal for the lower price.
 
Arc Mini R2

CM 693

They happen to have that Arc Mini R2 still with all the hard drive cages and what not inside on display as well? I really got to get to microcenter and check out the Midi R2 to see if they changed the front enough that it doesn't look so cheap. Was what kept me from going with the old one.

Also nice to see a new 690 from CM. Not a big fan of these new 2.5" hard drive bays that are going around, but whatever I'm sure some people use them. Also did they tuck the front panel stuff behind what I assume is a hotswap bay there on the top?
 

Fredescu

Member
Haswell overclocks the same as Ivy, while using more power, generating more heat, and running about 30C hotter under load.

It uses roughly the same power in real world applications and much less at idle though right? It "uses more power" under synthetic tests designed to keep the CPU at 100%, but your average gaming session isn't going to be doing that. Do you know if anyone has compared gaming power consumption between the two?

I'm looking at upgrading from my trusty Q9550 and I still think I'd rather Haswell's better idle power consumption, slightly better performance, and better connectivity options. Especially since I'll probably stick with it as long as I did my previous platform.
 

knitoe

Member
I was looking at getting the Samsung 840 250gb, but this one is on sale at amazon for $149.99 right now:

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B006EKJ8UI/?tag=neogaf0e-20

What do you guys think of it? I'm referring to the 240 GB model.

The Sandisk is a faster and uses better NAND which should last longer. The big negative is it's using a Sandforce controller. Although I never have issue using 3 SSD with Sandforce controllers, many people do. I have since moved on to all Samsung SSD, raid 128GB 830 and raid 250GB 840. No issues so far.
 
Fucking hell man, PSU dies 4 days ago. I bought the PSU in amazon at May 7. Was put in a queue from their tech support team

And now from what i've read in their facebook page, the company is in liquidation.

YOYOtech

What fucking luck
 

mkenyon

Banned
The Sandisk is a faster and uses better NAND which should last longer. The big negative is it's using a Sandforce controller. Although I never have issue using 3 SSD with Sandforce controllers, many people do. I have since moved on to all Samsung SSD, raid 128GB 830 and raid 250GB 840. No issues so far.
I think the major sandforce issues have been ironed out. The bad rep sticks though.
 

kennah

Member
Fucking hell man, PSU dies 4 days ago. I bought the PSU in amazon at May 7. Was put in a queue from their tech support team

And now from what i've read in their facebook page, the company is in liquidation.

YOYOtech

What fucking luck
You buy cheap you buy twice. There's reasons the brands recommended are recommended.
 

kharma45

Member
How hard is your budget? I'd 100% stretch to a Z77 and i5 'K'

These are updated OP (Not done yet)

4ak8u0d.png

I may get shot for this but for the standard build I do genuinely think that there is a case to be argued now for the FX 6300/6350 to be an option at that end of the market. Higher TDP is a downside. Under full load with a Titan on-board an FX 6350 system as a whole would pull 259w.
 
I think I (finally) nailed down my Haswell upgrade, I just need a good cooler recommendation. I was originally going for Corsair H80i but now that I think of it, it's kinda expensive and I won't be OCing the CPU for a LONG time (couple of years for sure).

So, here are my (final) picks:

MBO: Asus Z87-Deluxe
CPU: Intel Core i5-4670K
Cooler: Please recommend something good and QUIET
RAM: G.SKILL Sniper series F3-12800CL9D-8GBSR (1.5 V), DDR3 1600MHz, kit 2x4GB

the rest of the computer stays the same:

Case: Antec P183
PSU: Corsair HX520, 520W
GPU: XFX Radeon 7850 2GB Black Edition , 975MHz
Seagate Baracuda 160 & 320GB HDDs, SATA-II
Samsung DVD-RW
Dell U2412M, 1920x1200
Microsoft Ergo 4000 Natural Keyboard
Logitech G400
Win 7 x64 Pro

By going for i5 instead of i7 and ditching the H80i I think I can scrape some money for 128GB Samsung 840 Pro SSD. Would that be worth it? It would replace the current 160GB SATA-II HDD for Windows installation.
 

LordAlu

Member
I may get shot for this but for the standard build I do genuinely think that there is a case to be argued now for the FX 6300/6350 to be an option at that end of the market. Higher TDP is a downside. Under full load with a Titan on-board an FX 6350 system as a whole would pull 259w.
New AMD FM2 chips came out as well yesterday, don't know what they're like though as I haven't researched anything on them :p
 
Looking at doing an upgrade to my PC in a few weeks and had a few questions regarding Memory and GPU. I will go through the format in the OP anyway though.

Current Specs: CPU: i7 920 2.6ghz. Memory: 12GB Corsair DDR3 2000mhz. Mobo: Asus P6T. GPU: GTX570x2 in SLI. PSU: Corsair 1000w. Case: Fractal Design Define XL.
Budget: Australia. CPU and Mobo - ~$1000(including memory if required). GPU - ~$800
Main Use: 5 - Gaming
Monitor Resolution: 1920x1080 x2(Dell LED IPS monitors)
List Games that must run well: Current releases at 60fps. An example being Crysis 3 which I could not max on my current system.
Reusable Parts: Case, Power Supply, Hard Drives/SSD's, possibly the Memory. All peripherals etc.
When will you build: 2 weeks time. GPU bought separately at later date if 7 series is the choice.
Overclocking: No.

I am looking at at purchasing an i7 3930k 3.2ghz and a Motherboard to suit. I've never been too phased about choice of board although I do usually try get something middle of the price range. I wouldn't mind seeing what Gigabyte has to offer these days though, I have always liked the look of their boards. Is this a better choice then the i7 4770K Haswell?

GPU: I was looking at getting the 4gb edition of the GTX680 but I am not too well informed bout the 7 series cards. The best local price I can find for this card is $709inc. Am I better off holding off for a 7 series card? Even if I wait on purchasing the GPU I can just use my SLI570s with the upgraded CPU and Mobo for the mean time. My two locals currently do not have 7 series cards and I have no clue how they compare to the 6 series. pccasegear.com.au has them and they are similar price range, but again I don't know how it all compares.

Memory: I currently run 12gb Corsair(forget the specific model) DDR3 2000mhz. Is there any reason to change from this memory? I notice a lot of builds these days including 16gb ~1600mhz and also a lot even going above that. Do I need more for this current day and age?

Thanks for any help.

Re post as it got lost amongst all the amazing posts in this thread. One day I will crack and go to a mini set up. One day.
 

Hazaro

relies on auto-aim
It uses roughly the same power in real world applications and much less at idle though right? It "uses more power" under synthetic tests designed to keep the CPU at 100%, but your average gaming session isn't going to be doing that. Do you know if anyone has compared gaming power consumption between the two?

I'm looking at upgrading from my trusty Q9550 and I still think I'd rather Haswell's better idle power consumption, slightly better performance, and better connectivity options. Especially since I'll probably stick with it as long as I did my previous platform.
That is a good point. Although I'd suspect that the loads would also be higher, the question is by how much.
People are getting their hands on them right now and common review websites usually don't run gaming load tests. In the long run the idle should win out, but it's not by much.

Also, having the CPU load into the high 80C - 90C range on a mild OC, or require a $80+ water cooler to go above that without reaching boiling is absurd (See below).

Tech Report:
LpgJCOU.png

yzKKx1G.png

aITmgTG.png


PcPer:
HKDcpvI.png


200 WATTS under CineBench 11 while OC'd. I'm fairly certain Ivy would be at 135-150W. Still, at stock 20W more than Ivy. What a joke.
jjGrSxE.png


I hope the next revision fixes a lot of this.
The Sandisk is a faster and uses better NAND which should last longer. The big negative is it's using a Sandforce controller. Although I never have issue using 3 SSD with Sandforce controllers, many people do. I have since moved on to all Samsung SSD, raid 128GB 830 and raid 250GB 840. No issues so far.
I've included the Sandisk, kinda. In the Enhanced (Now Great) Build. Just shoved it in there.
It's good value, and Sandisk's in the past have been good. The 840 exists now to compete though and I'd rather have it over the SandForce speed still. Personal preference.
Wait Haswell runs hot? WTF
BSjG3d8.png

I may get shot for this but for the standard build I do genuinely think that there is a case to be argued now for the FX 6300/6350 to be an option at that end of the market. Higher TDP is a downside. Under full load with a Titan on-board an FX 6350 system as a whole would pull 259w.
I was staring at the Basic and Standard Builds and thinking about the low end i3's vs FX chips.
Haswell has a ton of downsides, but it still doesn't change Ivy vs AMD. You are free to dispute this however!
I think I (finally) nailed down my Haswell upgrade, I just need a good cooler recommendation. I was originally going for Corsair H80i but now that I think of it, it's kinda expensive and I won't be OCing the CPU for a LONG time (couple of years for sure).

So, here are my (final) picks:

MBO: Asus Z87-Deluxe
CPU: Intel Core i5-4670K
Cooler: Please recommend something good and QUIET
RAM: G.SKILL Sniper series F3-12800CL9D-8GBSR (1.5 V), DDR3 1600MHz, kit 2x4GB

the rest of the computer stays the same:

By going for i5 instead of i7 and ditching the H80i I think I can scrape some money for 128GB Samsung 840 Pro SSD. Would that be worth it? It would replace the current 160GB SATA-II HDD for Windows installation.
i5, H60 (cheaper, at least in US), 840 Pro 128GB or 840 240GB.
Re post as it got lost amongst all the amazing posts in this thread. One day I will crack and go to a mini set up. One day.
I'll let mkenyon chime in here.
 

Spookie

Member
Therein lies the problem lol. I'm more inclined to the former atm.

I went for a 144hz monitor, though I'm running it at 120hz the difference in motion is amazing. Though don't get me wrong the moment someone brings out a decent 120hz IPS I'll buy it day one.

That new XL Arc case has me reaching for my wallet. :(
 

Hazaro

relies on auto-aim
And the OP is updated and I'm going to take a break for a bit, so lmk what typos I did and what sucks about it.

DcT6Y1A.png


Bonus:
IIbQUuk.png
 

Tak3n

Banned
Hi Guys

New here so my apologies if I do this wrong, I came across this website that builds PC (I see this is frowned on here, better to build your own is the concensus) but their price seems so good, I can not really match them...

I am just hoping someone with far more experience could tell me if I am missing something as they are using a top grade GPU, and I have never seen a new 770 in this price build...

it is built by Dino PC

here is the build (it seems too good for the price, it is the new Haswell as well, I know the OP says it is not worth the upgrade.


CPU Overclocking: 4.3Ghz - Moderate Overclock


Included
CPU: NEW! Intel Core i5 4670K
Included
CPU Cooler: Corsair H100i Extreme Water Cooler
Operating System: Microsoft® Windows 7 Home Premium 64-bit
Motherboard: NEW! Asus Z87-K
RAM: NEW! 16GB Corsair 1866mhz Vengeance (2x8GB)
Hard Drive: NEW! Plextor 128GB M5S SSD S-ATAIII 6.0Gb/s
Additional Storage: 2TB S-ATAIII 6.0Gb/s
Optical Drive: 22x DVD±RW DL S-ATA
Graphics card: NEW! NVIDIA GeForce GTX 770 2GB
Sound card: Onboard 7.1 Audio
Case: Fractal Design Define R4 Black Pearl
PSU: 600W Corsair CX
Warranty: 3 Year SureCare Warranty
Product Subtotal:

£1,166.91
 

Hazaro

relies on auto-aim
Looks like Scan to me?
nope, am I allowed to say?
It's DinoPC and of course you are.
The pre-built route in Europe is far better than here. I guess I'll crunch the costs on it.

*Yeah that looks fairly decent. I'd swap the PSU to a 650 TX M and that's about it.
**I bet the website hasn't updated the 4.3Ghz number for Haswell yet, it's the same for the Ivy chips :p
 

Addnan

Member
The price seems great. Building it yourself works out to almost the same price, I think a little higher when taking OS into account.
 

Tak3n

Banned
It's DinoPC and of course you are.
The pre-built route in Europe is far better than here. I guess I'll crunch the costs on it.

*Yeah that looks fairly decent. I'd swap the PSU to a 650 TX M and that's about it.

ahh cool I will update the post to say it is Dino PC, well guessed :)

how future proof do you think it? i.e is it easily upgradable, do you think it is worth lowering the GPU to a 660ti for example as the 770 may be overkill

the only downside is I see quite a few negative posts about Dino PC, so I would need to weight that up with the excellent price
 

Hazaro

relies on auto-aim
If you get all working parts I'm sure you can remount and rebuild what you need to :p
And the way Intel chips are going, no one will ever need to upgrade! (It's fine)
Thanks for the recommendation!

SSD is stil in the works, dunno if I'll be able to get it in the end, but I'll try.

edit: Would H55 suffice?
See if you can get the H60, should almost be the same price. Extra few C will help for Haswell and the H60 isn't that much louder.
Although your requirement for 'good' could mean something else than mine. CM 212 EVO is a great HS, but... those Haswell temps.
 

AndyBNV

Nvidia
Retail versions of Intel Haswell processors are hotter and more power-hungry than pre-production chips, and can’t be overclocked to the same speeds, British PC manufacturers have told PC Pro.

Four companies have told us that systems built using retail versions of Haswell chips haven't been able to match the speeds seen on pre-production models, which are given to manufacturers for testing before the official launch. All four PC makers spoke to PC Pro on condition of anonymity.

One company said that it had overclocked pre-production chips from 3.5GHz to 4.7GHz or 4.8GHz with ease, but that "40 or 50" retail chips had been impossible to overclock beyond 4.2GHz because of the high voltages and unsafe temperatures involved.

There are also concerns over the temperature of the retail processors. A fourth firm’s spokesperson said that employees who build PCs "have to frequently change chips" in order to find the best parts, and that "even at stock speeds, [retail chips] are running hotter than Ivy Bridge or Haswell samples". The firm said that retail chips are "around 15°C" hotter than pre-production samples.

http://www.pcpro.co.uk/news/382267/intel-haswell-hotter-and-slower-than-expected
 

Hazaro

relies on auto-aim
Nice to finally see some outlet say something.
It's absurd, and probably is an issue to a degree on stock cooling even.

OC3D had an H100 running and hit 91C on a core with just OCCT in their video review. Another person chimes in.

www.overclock.net/t/1313179/official-delidded-club/18850_50#post_20117344
For a very modest 4.3GHz overclock:

Running at 1.15V:

Core 1: 83°C
Core 2: 82°C
Core 3: 79°C
Core 4: 69°C
Package: 83°C

Running at 1.2V:

Core 1: 89°C
Core 2: 89°C
Core 3: 86°C
Core 4: 75°C
Package: 90°C

Cooling: Corsair H100i, stock fans, running at 100%.
Voltage Control: Manual, CPU-Z reported no deviation during testing.
Tested with: IntelBurnTestV2

Another (not as bad):
Parameters:
Speedstep disabled on manual Vcore
1.225V (1.236V on CPU-Z) @ 4.3ghz
Noctua NH-D14 with 2x NF-A15 fans on open test bench
Running Prime95 for 1 hour
Room temp ~25C

Pre-delid

Idle temp: ~40C
Avg load temp: ~70C
Peak temps: 83C

Post Delid

Idle temp: ~35C
Avg load temp: ~55-60C
Peak temp: 72C

My Coollaboratory Liquid Ultra should come in tomorrow so I'll update this thread. Also with some pics!
 

Hazaro

relies on auto-aim
I might hold off my purchase them for a month, hate to get it and have constant problems :(
It just runs super hot if you try to poke it a bit :p
Delidding is looking very attractive right now, especially the vice method which looks to have a 100% success rate.
Just need $15 weird solder thermal paste, a vice, block of wood, hammer, and the cash to possibly lose $2-300.

I'm gonna push my 2600K around, see where it stands. I want to upgrade something. Might go to a delidded 3770K.
 
It just runs super hot if you try to poke it a bit :p

Just need $15 weird solder thermal paste, a vice, block of wood, hammer, and the cash to possibly lose $2-300.

I'm gonna push my 2600K around, see where it stands. I want to upgrade something. Might go to a delidded 3770K.
As far as I can see, no one has messed up their CPU so far using the vice method unlike the razor blade method so I'm not too worried. Also, do you actually need that weird thermal paste or can you just use normal paste?

Is there a way to reattach the IHS in case you need to send it in for warranty repair?
 

abunai

Member
Haswell talk making me glad I was impatient and went with Ivy. 4.6GHz @ 70c max, yeeeee.

As far as I can see, no one has messed up their CPU so far using the vice method unlike the razor blade method so I'm not too worried. Also, do you actually need that weird thermal paste or can you just use normal paste?

Is there a way to reattach the IHS in case you need to send it in for warranty repair?

I've heard of people doing it with some Ivy chips with epoxy and aftermarket pastes, but it involved clamping the IHS back down which makes me wince.

hngh

Maybe there's a more nuanced way to do it that I'm unaware of, though.
 
As far as I can see, no one has messed up their CPU so far using the vice method unlike the razor blade method so I'm not too worried. Also, do you actually need that weird thermal paste or can you just use normal paste?

Is there a way to reattach the IHS in case you need to send it in for warranty repair?

Gotta watch out doing that since the real problem that causes the heat is the little gap that the "glue" creates making a gap between the actual chip and IHS. As in it is the removing of the glue around the edges that is causing the drop in temperature., with variances depending on the heat transfer of your new paste.

Or so I've read. Not going to pretend to know what I'm talking about here since I only just read it all in the last few days.
 
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