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"I need a New PC!" 2013 Part 1. Haswell, Crysis 3, and secret fairy sauce. Read da OP

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flotsam

Neo Member
Is there a site where you can select different pieces to sort of 'Frankenstein' your PC purchase, weighing the price of different parts and customising to your liking? I feel like if I buy a pre-packaged build from PC World it'll be less than optimal for the price.

On the topic of Frankenstein, are you looking to buy an all new system or are there parts that you can scavenge from an existing machine? Any parts that you can reuse will help that budget stretch even further.

If so, using the template in the OP to state what you're upgrading from will be a big help.
 

Dave_6

Member
I just realized there is only one fan in the define r4 and I only ordered a corsair H60 for the cpu.

Damn, I really wanted to build this tomorrow.

There should be two in it; one in the back and one in the front. I moved the back one up to the front and put the H60 cooler where the back one was.
 

Horse Detective

Why the long case?
There should be two in it; one in the back and one in the front. I moved the back one up to the front and put the H60 cooler where the back one was.

Ah, alright, I see that now. Just getting around to opening this thing up today. Do you think that will be sufficient if I am not over clocking for the moment?

Also, has anyone else noticed that they positioned the wires on the inside through the backplate holes exactly where they need to be? This seems unbelievably convenient.
 

knitoe

Member
Got the Dell u2713hm today, wow. Big upgrade from the Samsung T240HD. Image quality is crisp, colors pop out, details are sharp. 2560x1440 gaming on the GTX 780 is amazing!

Here's Remember Me (my photo taking skill doesn't do the monitor justice...):



Even the Dell 2005FPW in portrait mode looks small next to it.

Yeah, once you game at high res, 1440p or higher, hard to go back to 1080p. Also, you are going to need SLI to maintain 60fps and max settings (minus insane AA).

I can access the net fine and streaming 1080p video via Crunchyroll seems pretty good whereas I couldn't do it before. Steam just seems slow. Weird.
If Steam is slow, try a different server location. Also, the network driver you downloaded is probably a EXE zip file. Usually, they extract and auto load setup. If that doesn't happen, find where the files are extracted, usually in the same folder, and run the setup file manually. What's your MB and file name you downloaded?
 

Pratfall

Member
Current Build
CPU: 3570K
Video Card: GTX580
Power Supply: SilverStone Strider Plus ST50F-P 500W

I would like to put a new video card in, either 770 or 780. What kind of an overclock do you think I could sustain on the 3570K with my current power supply?
 

Najaf

Member
PC GAF, I could use some storage advice:

I just bought a 128Gb SSD and a 4TB HDD. I have two relatively new 1TB HDDs. Any suggestions on partitioning the 4TB drive?

I've considered putting the two 1TB drives in RAID 1 and keeping essential data on those (docs, gamesaves, home video etc) for backup and simply using the 4TB drive for bulk storage (steam catalog, HD library, music).

Any suggestions for segmenting that much storage? I've never had a single drive over 1TB so I could use some guidance.

Thanks in advance!
 

kennah

Member
PC GAF, I could use some storage advice:

I just bought a 128Gb SSD and a 4TB HDD. I have two relatively new 1TB HDDs. Any suggestions on partitioning the 4TB drive?

I've considered putting the two 1TB drives in RAID 1 and keeping essential data on those (docs, gamesaves, home video etc) for backup and simply using the 4TB drive for bulk storage (steam catalog, HD library, music).

Any suggestions for segmenting that much storage? I've never had a single drive over 1TB so I could use some guidance.

Thanks in advance!

One big partition. Any splitting up will just slow it allllll down.
 
On the topic of Frankenstein, are you looking to buy an all new system or are there parts that you can scavenge from an existing machine? Any parts that you can reuse will help that budget stretch even further.

If so, using the template in the OP to state what you're upgrading from will be a big help.

No existing desktop. Had a laptop that served me faithfully for four years until the motherboard blew up.

Are there any PC selling websites for UK gaffers that are recommended? I get the impression if I buy from PC World I'll get nowhere near what I could somewhere else, particularly in terms of playing games on it.
 

Tak3n

Banned
I have not used them mate. But dinopc.com are really good on price they always come out at least a 100 cheaper on a build.
 

mkenyon

Banned
Bitspower full board ITX block - I think this is for the P8Z77-I, but I like the thought of where this will be going in the future.

971353_490641854342039_309381421_n.jpg
I decided to upgrade my PC. The microcenter sale on the Core i7 3770K was to good to pass up plus I already have a buyer for my old computer after I order the few parts that I will need to make it a fully working computer again, and I wanted some of the modern things like USB 3.0 and UEFI anyway.

I currently have:

1st gen Core i7 with a slight overclock
8GB DDR3 RAM
GeForce 660Ti
1.5TB Western Digital Black HDD


I am going to keep my GeForce 660Ti for now, maybe in a couple years I will upgrade that. as well as my 1.5TB Western Digital Black HDD. at some point I will get a SSD but im going to hold off for now


I wanted to build a small computer so I went the mini-ITX route, when all said and done it will have:

Core i7 3770K - $230
ASUS P8Z77-I Deluxe - $176
Corsair Vengeance LP 16GB (2x8GB) DDR3 1600 MHz - $116.99
LIAN LI PC-TU200B - $169
Geforce 660Ti - already have
Western Digital 1.5TB Black HDD - already have
LG dvd/blu-ray burner - already have

the case is kind of expensive but I think its one of the cooler looking Mini-ITX cases that I've seen and i think i'll be happy with it, here is a pic of it:




So anyway I have a question about the CPU cooler, I would like to be able to do some overclocking although it doesn't need to be anything to dramatic, and I would like the cooler to be as quiet as possible.

The Cooler Master GeminII mentioned in the OP looks like a nice low profile cooler but I cannot tell if it will be small enough for the case and mITX board that I'm using. The Ram I ordered is low profile RAM so I don't think it will be an issue there.

Another one I was looking at is the Noctua NH-L9i 95mm SSO2 CPU Cooler

The reviews on that one basically say its good quality and very quiet however it doesn't seem to actually cool any better than the stock intel cooler does so I will probably skip on that one, I would like something that actually does a better job than the stock intel cooler.

Any suggestions?
I will be redoing the SFF guide in the OP sometime between now and Monday, but I'll look into clearance with that PC in specific. I have a feeling it's probably almost the same exact interior dimensions as the Lian Li in the guide right now.
Thanks. But lately I've kinda been feeling the desire to get a new case. This Lian Li build is almost 5 years old now, and I've done a couple other builds since then, and I really like some of the innovations in these newer cases. Plus it would be really nice to have front USB 3.0. Of course this Lian Li works perfectly fine and I totally don't need a new case, but sometimes when you get that itch the only thing you can do is scratch it.

I've been eyeing that Corsair 550D. Not as classy as a Lian Li, but sexy in its own right. And the ability to add in 6 140mm fans makes me kinda horny.
140mm is totally overrated. All of the best fans are 120s. Take a look at the PC-7HX. It's basically a Lian Li Arc Midi. V700 might be up your alley too, and it's been on sale a lot lately.
I just realized there is only one fan in the define r4 and I only ordered a corsair H60 for the cpu.

Damn, I really wanted to build this tomorrow.
R4 comes with two fans. H60 comes with its own fan. That's all you need.
Meh..

SB-E and a 3820 is looking more attractive in the wake of haswell.

Intel is too comfortable right now
The only thing that makes me pause on this is the dearth of quality 2011 boards and the glut of stupid awesome 1150 boards.

I'm hoping we'll be seeing some of these trends on motherboards for the Ivy-E release.
 

kennah

Member
Thanks. Do multiple partitions slow drives down in general, or only on larger ones?

Yep. Not as big an issue on SSD. but if you're accessing both partitions at the same time, then the head has to keep going back and forth between the partitions, slowing everything down.
 

scogoth

Member
rKtRfaS.png


First Tutorial on making and sleeving cables. This tutorial will cover making and sleeving a molex cable. This is the easiest cable to make because the crimp ends are larger and easier to work with and the molex connector is very forgiving on sleeve and heatshrink placement.

Also big shout out to United States Postal Service for making a box for me to shoot on, I'll need to find something more professional for next tutorial

Click on any of the pictures to make them larger

Reference for good crimps http://www.molex.com/tnotes/crimp.html#9

Tools and Material Needed
Lighter
Wire Stripper
Crimper
Scissors
16 or 18AWG Wire (18AWG is much easier to work with however 16AWG will carry more current if the wire needs to be very long or high powered)
Sleeve
Molex Crimp ends
Molex Connector (not pictured)



VttwO7g.png

Step 1
Strip about 3-4mm of the insulation off the wire


Should look like this



Step 2
Here is a diagram on the crimp terminal. The exposed wire goes in the conductor part, insulation in the insulation part


Place the wire in the crimp terminal like so


Tool Info
The official Molex crimper has two sections, one for crimping the conductor


and for the insulation


If you want to select the perfect size you can measure the width of bare wire plus the width of the crimp terminal walls and then the insulation width plus the width of the crimp terminal walls. I just used trial and error.

Step 3
After placing the wire in the crimp terminal, carefully place the crimp terminal into the crimp tool trying not to let the wire slip out. Crimp down on the wire firmly but not so much that you break the terminal or cut through the wire. If you have selected the proper size then you should be able to firmly press on the crimp without any issue. Do the conductor part first


You should end up with something like this



Now crimp the insulation


And a finished crimp with better focused photo! In a perfect world the insulation would stick out about a mm on the inside of the insulation tabs


Step 4
Repeat for the other side and then 3 more wires!


nMHCCCj.png

Step 1
The real secret to sleeving is understanding how to get the right length. It is a real pain to get the proper length because it stretches as the sleeving gets narrower or wider. Just remember to always err on the side of too long, you can trim off excess if the sleeve is too long you can't make it longer if you cut it too short. In order to get the best measurement possible insert a section of wire the same gauge as the wire you want to sleeve into sleeve.


Step 2
Take the sleeving with the wire in it and run your fingers along it to stretch it out as much as you can. Many people use clamps to hold the ends tight to make it easier to measure. I had to use a foot and one hand so I could take the picture!


Step 3

Using the Lutro0 measuring tool line up the end of the sleeve to the side of the tool and the end of the mating portion of the crimp terminal to the middle length measuring slot (I find it best for molex, different connectors will use the other slots). Pay attention to where the end of the mating portion is, the insulation and conductor crimp sections are under the tool. There is a small lip at the end of the mating section of the terminal, this is where you want to measure from.


Example of where to place the tool from Lutro0's site.
lc0001.jpg


From here there are three options:

1) For the perfect sleeve mark the wire we are sleeving where the Lutro0 tool ends and do the same for the other end of the wire. Measure between the two mark and then add ~2mm . The sleeve will get shorter when you melt the end after cutting. Measure the length on the sleeve while pulling the sleeve tight and cut.

2) If you do not have the Lutr0 tool then place a connector next to the crimp terminal in the same position as if the terminal was in the connector. Use the end of the connector to mark the position on the wire, measure, add ~2mm and then cut that length on the sleeve.

3) If you want to do it quick and dirty, line up the sleeve on one end (as in the first photo of this step) stretch both cables alongside each other and cut it approximately here


Step 4
Cut the sleeve with sharp scissors and make it as clean as possible. If you cut too slow the sleeve tends to unravel so make a swift clean cut.



Step 5
Now the fun part with fire. Take the end of the cut sleeve and bring it next the flame of the lighter. You do not to need to do it for very long or bring it into the flame. You want to melt the nylon not burn it. After its melted it tends to curl up a little so I gently pull on the ends to make it smoother again. This one is a video for you guys!

http://youtu.be/eYrgysnzhFw

Finished ends


Step 6
Now that you have a wire with ends and the sleeve simply slide the sleeve onto the wire


Now if you need to remove the sleeve to make it shorter or any other reason this will inevitably happen to you


To get the locking tabs unsnagged from the sleeving simply bunch up the sleeve and inch it off like a caterpillar


Step 7
Once the sleeve is on use the Lutro0 tool or connector to position the sleeve in the correct position and slip the heat shrink on to the end


Position the heat shrink so it sits right against the end of the mating section of the crimp terminal


Use your heat gun or lighter to shrink the heat shrink. Make sure to rotate it so it shrinks evenly


Run your fingers up the sleeve to pull it tight and repeat the heat shrink for the other side


Step 8
Finally insert the crimp terminal into the connector!




Final notes: ATX pins are slightly different and a little more difficult to get inserted into the connector so I will be doing a write up for the ATX pins. I will also be doing a write up for fans and USB later. Any questions or comments please post in the thread because I'm sure others will have the same questions. Corrections please let me know by private message and I will fix them as soon as I can. I do want to do a full video tutorial but that will come later.
 

mkenyon

Banned
Could be better but I cant find my measuring tape.... I'll add in pictures for the measuring sleeve section when I can find it.

Also have to fly mkneyon here to take pictures for me to make everything shiny!
All about the lighting!

Remember, taking photos is literally just capturing light. Change the type of light you are using to affect the final result in lots of fun ways.

Also, tripod + timed release helps a lot.

I can't find your easter egg, though I do find it funny that you are doing this whole thing on a USPS Priority box.
 

scogoth

Member
All about the lighting!

Remember, taking photos is literally just capturing light. Change the type of light you are using to affect the final result in lots of fun ways.

Also, tripod + timed release helps a lot.

I can't find your easter egg, though I do find it funny that you are doing this whole thing on a USPS Priority box.

Yeah I could take better photos but I literally woke up this morning and saw some people interested and just did it. Couldnt find the tripod or measuring tape lol
 

mkenyon

Banned
Pfft.

:p
I decided to upgrade my PC. The microcenter sale on the Core i7 3770K was to good to pass up plus I already have a buyer for my old computer after I order the few parts that I will need to make it a fully working computer again, and I wanted some of the modern things like USB 3.0 and UEFI anyway.

I currently have:

1st gen Core i7 with a slight overclock
8GB DDR3 RAM
GeForce 660Ti
1.5TB Western Digital Black HDD


I am going to keep my GeForce 660Ti for now, maybe in a couple years I will upgrade that. as well as my 1.5TB Western Digital Black HDD. at some point I will get a SSD but im going to hold off for now


I wanted to build a small computer so I went the mini-ITX route, when all said and done it will have:

Core i7 3770K - $230
ASUS P8Z77-I Deluxe - $176
Corsair Vengeance LP 16GB (2x8GB) DDR3 1600 MHz - $116.99
LIAN LI PC-TU200B - $169
Geforce 660Ti - already have
Western Digital 1.5TB Black HDD - already have
LG dvd/blu-ray burner - already have

the case is kind of expensive but I think its one of the cooler looking Mini-ITX cases that I've seen and i think i'll be happy with it, here is a pic of it:




So anyway I have a question about the CPU cooler, I would like to be able to do some overclocking although it doesn't need to be anything to dramatic, and I would like the cooler to be as quiet as possible.

The Cooler Master GeminII mentioned in the OP looks like a nice low profile cooler but I cannot tell if it will be small enough for the case and mITX board that I'm using. The Ram I ordered is low profile RAM so I don't think it will be an issue there.

Another one I was looking at is the Noctua NH-L9i 95mm SSO2 CPU Cooler

The reviews on that one basically say its good quality and very quiet however it doesn't seem to actually cool any better than the stock intel cooler does so I will probably skip on that one, I would like something that actually does a better job than the stock intel cooler.

Any suggestions?
Okay, after reading more, I don't think I can recommend this case in good conscience. The thing is just an absolute dog when it comes to cooling components. It'll make a system run loud and hot.
 
Hazaro, Mkenyon, and friends, what thermal compound do you recommend? The current oem TC that came with my heatsink is almost out. I've heard that there isn't a huge difference between all of them, is that true?
 

mkenyon

Banned
The big difference is how they perform with various quality mounts. Since everything is more or less the same price, Phobya HeGrease and Prolimatech PK-3 are the ones to get.
 
Alright, I waited AS PER INSTRUCTIONS. After seeing what we got out of the new batch of GPUs and CPUs, I ordered a Gigabyte 770 4GB (not added to partspicker yet, thus mentioning it here) which I'm waiting on from Amazon. I figured in the interim I'd lock down the rest of my build and start ordering it.

PCPartPicker part list / Price breakdown by merchant / Benchmarks

CPU: Intel Core i5-3570K 3.4GHz Quad-Core Processor ($189.99 @ Microcenter)
CPU Cooler: Cooler Master Hyper 212 EVO 82.9 CFM Sleeve Bearing CPU Cooler ($29.99 @ Newegg)
Motherboard: MSI Z77 MPOWER ATX LGA1155 Motherboard ($178.99 @ SuperBiiz)
Memory: Corsair Vengeance LP 16GB (2 x 8GB) DDR3-1600 Memory ($116.99 @ Amazon)
Storage: Samsung 840 Pro Series 256GB 2.5" Solid State Disk ($214.99 @ Mac Mall)
Storage: Western Digital Caviar Blue 1TB 3.5" 7200RPM Internal Hard Drive ($64.98 @ Outlet PC)
Case: Fractal Design Define R4 (Black Pearl) ATX Mid Tower Case ($84.99 @ Microcenter)
Power Supply: SeaSonic M12II 650W 80 PLUS Bronze Certified ATX12V / EPS12V Power Supply ($95.98 @ Newegg)
Operating System: Microsoft Windows 7 Professional SP1 (OEM) (64-bit) ($129.98 @ Outlet PC)
Monitor: Asus VG248QE 144Hz 24.0" Monitor ($266.99 @ Amazon)
Total: $1373.87
(Prices include shipping, taxes, and discounts when available.)
(Generated by PCPartPicker 2013-06-06 13:13 EDT-0400)

Quick notes:

  • Waited on Haswell, seems like it wasn't worth it; I went with the Ivy part everyone already liked. (Don't see much reason to bump up to a 3770K here off the top of my head.)
  • Dithered a lot about the cases, but the Refine seems nice, I guess?
  • I feel like I could easily need well more than 1TB of raw data space on top of my SSD but I feel like the HDD situation is pretty shitty right now. Recommendations here? I saw people talking ominously about the WD Blacks upthread....
  • I gave in and picked the 144Hz monitor. Is this going to be a problem anywhere? Are there any downsides to 144 as opposed to 120, and if so, is there some 120Hz monitor I should be looking at instead?
 

Addnan

Member
Alright, I waited AS PER INSTRUCTIONS. After seeing what we got out of the new batch of GPUs and CPUs, I ordered a Gigabyte 770 4GB (not added to partspicker yet, thus mentioning it here) which I'm waiting on from Amazon. I figured in the interim I'd lock down the rest of my build and start ordering it.

PCPartPicker part list / Price breakdown by merchant / Benchmarks

CPU: Intel Core i5-3570K 3.4GHz Quad-Core Processor ($189.99 @ Microcenter)
CPU Cooler: Cooler Master Hyper 212 EVO 82.9 CFM Sleeve Bearing CPU Cooler ($29.99 @ Newegg)
Motherboard: MSI Z77 MPOWER ATX LGA1155 Motherboard ($178.99 @ SuperBiiz)
Memory: Corsair Vengeance LP 16GB (2 x 8GB) DDR3-1600 Memory ($116.99 @ Amazon)
Storage: Samsung 840 Pro Series 256GB 2.5" Solid State Disk ($214.99 @ Mac Mall)
Storage: Western Digital Caviar Blue 1TB 3.5" 7200RPM Internal Hard Drive ($64.98 @ Outlet PC)
Case: Fractal Design Define R4 (Black Pearl) ATX Mid Tower Case ($84.99 @ Microcenter)
Power Supply: SeaSonic M12II 650W 80 PLUS Bronze Certified ATX12V / EPS12V Power Supply ($95.98 @ Newegg)
Operating System: Microsoft Windows 7 Professional SP1 (OEM) (64-bit) ($129.98 @ Outlet PC)
Monitor: Asus VG248QE 144Hz 24.0" Monitor ($266.99 @ Amazon)
Total: $1373.87
(Prices include shipping, taxes, and discounts when available.)
(Generated by PCPartPicker 2013-06-06 13:13 EDT-0400)

Quick notes:

  • Waited on Haswell, seems like it wasn't worth it; I went with the Ivy part everyone already liked. (Don't see much reason to bump up to a 3770K here off the top of my head.)
  • Dithered a lot about the cases, but the Refine seems nice, I guess?
  • I feel like I could easily need well more than 1TB of raw data space on top of my SSD but I feel like the HDD situation is pretty shitty right now. Recommendations here? I saw people talking ominously about the WD Blacks upthread....
  • I gave in and picked the 144Hz monitor. Is this going to be a problem anywhere? Are there any downsides to 144 as opposed to 120, and if so, is there some 120Hz monitor I should be looking at instead?

Looks pretty perfect.
 

kennah

Member
Alright, I waited AS PER INSTRUCTIONS. After seeing what we got out of the new batch of GPUs and CPUs, I ordered a Gigabyte 770 4GB (not added to partspicker yet, thus mentioning it here) which I'm waiting on from Amazon. I figured in the interim I'd lock down the rest of my build and start ordering it.

PCPartPicker part list / Price breakdown by merchant / Benchmarks

CPU: Intel Core i5-3570K 3.4GHz Quad-Core Processor ($189.99 @ Microcenter)
CPU Cooler: Cooler Master Hyper 212 EVO 82.9 CFM Sleeve Bearing CPU Cooler ($29.99 @ Newegg)
Motherboard: MSI Z77 MPOWER ATX LGA1155 Motherboard ($178.99 @ SuperBiiz)
Memory: Corsair Vengeance LP 16GB (2 x 8GB) DDR3-1600 Memory ($116.99 @ Amazon)
Storage: Samsung 840 Pro Series 256GB 2.5" Solid State Disk ($214.99 @ Mac Mall)
Storage: Western Digital Caviar Blue 1TB 3.5" 7200RPM Internal Hard Drive ($64.98 @ Outlet PC)
Case: Fractal Design Define R4 (Black Pearl) ATX Mid Tower Case ($84.99 @ Microcenter)
Power Supply: SeaSonic M12II 650W 80 PLUS Bronze Certified ATX12V / EPS12V Power Supply ($95.98 @ Newegg)
Operating System: Microsoft Windows 7 Professional SP1 (OEM) (64-bit) ($129.98 @ Outlet PC)
Monitor: Asus VG248QE 144Hz 24.0" Monitor ($266.99 @ Amazon)
Total: $1373.87
(Prices include shipping, taxes, and discounts when available.)
(Generated by PCPartPicker 2013-06-06 13:13 EDT-0400)

Quick notes:

  • Waited on Haswell, seems like it wasn't worth it; I went with the Ivy part everyone already liked. (Don't see much reason to bump up to a 3770K here off the top of my head.)
  • Dithered a lot about the cases, but the Refine seems nice, I guess?
  • I feel like I could easily need well more than 1TB of raw data space on top of my SSD but I feel like the HDD situation is pretty shitty right now. Recommendations here? I saw people talking ominously about the WD Blacks upthread....
  • I gave in and picked the 144Hz monitor. Is this going to be a problem anywhere? Are there any downsides to 144 as opposed to 120, and if so, is there some 120Hz monitor I should be looking at instead?

Textbook build. Very solid all around.

1. Good call, 3770K if you have a Microcenter nearby/do encoding work
2. Define is an amazing case.
3. Good choices for both, you can always upgrade your mechanical drive.
4. None, enjoy it.
 

mkenyon

Banned
As noted above, that would be the exact build, part for part, that I would suggest as the absolute best value for an enthusiast build.

Though, that motherboard does look quite nice with an H60...

(Build I did for Mr. Pockets)

 
  • Waited on Haswell, seems like it wasn't worth it; I went with the Ivy part everyone already liked. (Don't see much reason to bump up to a 3770K here off the top of my head.)
  • Dithered a lot about the cases, but the Refine seems nice, I guess?
  • I feel like I could easily need well more than 1TB of raw data space on top of my SSD but I feel like the HDD situation is pretty shitty right now. Recommendations here? I saw people talking ominously about the WD Blacks upthread....
  • I gave in and picked the 144Hz monitor. Is this going to be a problem anywhere? Are there any downsides to 144 as opposed to 120, and if so, is there some 120Hz monitor I should be looking at instead?

I guess I still don't understand the reluctance of going with Haswell - although I fully understand the disappointment of Haswell for current Ivy owners.

Since I assume you live next to a Microcenter, they have some specials going now if you purchase a Haswell, like $20 off of memory and $20 off of that SSD. Could save a bit of money.....
 

kennah

Member
I guess I still don't understand the reluctance of going with Haswell - although I fully understand the disappointment of Haswell for current Ivy owners.

Since I assume you live next to a Microcenter, they have some specials going now if you purchase a Haswell, like $20 off of memory and $20 off of that SSD. Could save a bit of money.....

Ivy is cheaper for about the same performance. Clock for clock Haswell is faster than Ivy by 5-10%, but when you can get a much better overclock out of Ivy - it starts to be faster. Maybe delidding Haswell will help, but that shouldn't be something the consumer has to do.
 
Ivy is cheaper for about the same performance. Clock for clock Haswell is faster than Ivy by 5-10%, but when you can get a much better overclock out of Ivy - it starts to be faster. Maybe delidding Haswell will help, but that shouldn't be something the consumer has to do.

I guess I can understand for heavy oc'ers.

But isn't Broadwell going to use 1150 as well? Or is it anticipated that Broadwell will be as lackluster as Haswell?
 

Addnan

Member
I guess I can understand for heavy oc'ers.

But isn't Broadwell going to use 1150 as well? Or is it anticipated that Broadwell will be as lackluster as Haswell?

People that buy Haswell won't really be upgrading to Broadwell and Broadwell is supposed to be to small upgrade in comparison to Haswell. Tick.
 

Najaf

Member
Noctua looking boss!

I love my Noctua NH-D14. It just fits in my CM 690II Advanced. Keeps my overclocked i7-930 running nice and steady. At first I fealt a bit silly putting that much into an air cooled solution, but I am sold. Even the packaging was amazing.
 

mkenyon

Banned
What about for this?

It's a Corsair A70 which I bought two years ago.
Quality of mount can depend on the hardware, but I mostly mean how the user mounted it.

The same person can mount with the exact same TIM 10 times and have temperatures that range from 1C to 10C different. I've seen it myself!

But yeah, the Phobya HeGrease and Prolimatech PK-3 perform really well whether it is an average to great mount.
I guess I still don't understand the reluctance of going with Haswell - although I fully understand the disappointment of Haswell for current Ivy owners.

Since I assume you live next to a Microcenter, they have some specials going now if you purchase a Haswell, like $20 off of memory and $20 off of that SSD. Could save a bit of money.....
Why go for Haswell when Ivy's cheaper? Outside of niche desires with some of the specific Z87 motherboards, there's literally no reason.

USB 3.0 and PCI-E 3.0 were the big improvements with Ivy, and because of those, you could make a case for Ivy over Sandy nearly right away. Haswell doesn't have anything like that going for it.
I guess I can understand for heavy oc'ers.

But isn't Broadwell going to use 1150 as well? Or is it anticipated that Broadwell will be as lackluster as Haswell?
Broadwell has been all but confirmed to be BGA, which means soldered to the motherboard.
 

kennah

Member
Whhhhaaaaaat. So all Broadwells will be sold as part of a motherboard?? Why would it even be considered part of a 'socket' then?

The future scares me.

It's not so bad really. The way things have been going we don't need to upgrade the CPU as often as we used to. You just don't buy a Celeron and then later upgrade anymore. Back when a Celly was 150-200 and a good cpu was 600 you'd save up. But now that the difference between the bottom end and the mid end is 100$ and the mid end and the top end is $100.... generally you'll just pony up the extra you need and stick with it until you change motherboard anyway.

This change is kind of a good thing. The only thing I'm worried about is not being able to get a high end chip and put it on a budget board.

And for those that demand the extreme performance, Intel has said that the Enthusiast Socket isn't going anywhere.
 
Noctua looking boss!

I love my Noctua NH-D14. It just fits in my CM 690II Advanced. Keeps my overclocked i7-930 running nice and steady. At first I fealt a bit silly putting that much into an air cooled solution, but I am sold. Even the packaging was amazing.
I'll be joining the Noctua family pretty soon. I ordered NH-D14 today for my Haswell upgrade.
gave up on Corsair Hxx series
 

Hazaro

relies on auto-aim
Hazaro, Mkenyon, and friends, what thermal compound do you recommend? The current oem TC that came with my heatsink is almost out. I've heard that there isn't a huge difference between all of them, is that true?
As someone who spent 3 hours this week on that topic:
Noctua H1, Phobya HeGrease, PK 3. I have the last two coming to my house now.

It doesn't matter that much, but it should drop maybe 2-3C over others.
Alright, I waited AS PER INSTRUCTIONS. After seeing what we got out of the new batch of GPUs and CPUs, I ordered a Gigabyte 770 4GB (not added to partspicker yet, thus mentioning it here) which I'm waiting on from Amazon. I figured in the interim I'd lock down the rest of my build and start ordering it.

PCPartPicker part list / Price breakdown by merchant / Benchmarks
[*]I feel like I could easily need well more than 1TB of raw data space on top of my SSD but I feel like the HDD situation is pretty shitty right now. Recommendations here? I saw people talking ominously about the WD Blacks upthread....
[*]I gave in and picked the 144Hz monitor. Is this going to be a problem anywhere? Are there any downsides to 144 as opposed to 120, and if so, is there some 120Hz monitor I should be looking at instead?
[/list]
Glorious build. It's always nice to see the parts get picked and nothing randomly swapped in or out.
If I had to buy HDD's I buy Samsung F4 used... and probably a WD Green 2TB.
Welcome to the next level of gaming.
It's not so bad really. The way things have been going we don't need to upgrade the CPU as often as we used to. You just don't buy a Celeron and then later upgrade anymore.

This change is kind of a good thing. The only thing I'm worried about is not being able to get a high end chip and put it on a budget board.
bGNxdlJ.png
 

scogoth

Member
As someone who spent 3 hours this week on that topic:
Noctua H1, Phobya HeGrease, PK 3. I have the last two coming to my house now.

It doesn't matter that much, but it should drop maybe 2-3C over others.

+1 for Noctua H1. I rarely have a bad mount with it, seems to have just the right viscosity
 
Pfft.

:p

Okay, after reading more, I don't think I can recommend this case in good conscience. The thing is just an absolute dog when it comes to cooling components. It'll make a system run loud and hot.

It doesn't seem like the most well ventilated case, but I'm going to try to make it work. I ended up getting the Cooler Master GeminII M4 because I found some pictures of it installed on the board I'm using and its nearly half the price of the Skythe Big Shuriken 2 Rev. B which was another option



I may replace the 140mm case fan with a Noctua case fan but I will see how the one it comes with does first
 

Salaadin

Member
Thinking about my build last night, like I said earlier, Im not entirely confident in that Hyper 212 Evo being seated properly. My question is...as long as the inital seal between the CPU and the HSF isnt broken, I should be good, right? When installing the HSF (its a pain), I shifted the HSF a bit and it was slightly angle so I had to shift it back into place. Is something like that enough to weaken the bond and raise my temps?

Obviously, Ill know for sure when I get home and test more but I was able to last night so now its all Im thinking about today >.>
 

Addnan

Member
Thinking about my build last night, like I said earlier, Im not entirely confident in that Hyper 212 Evo being seated properly. My question is...as long as the inital seal between the CPU and the HSF isnt broken, I should be good, right? When installing the HSF (its a pain), I shifted the HSF a bit and it was slightly angle so I had to shift it back into place. Is something like that enough to weaken the bond and raise my temps?

Obviously, Ill know for sure when I get home and test more but I was able to last night so now its all Im thinking about today >.>
Don't worry about it. When you boot it up and see the tempt you can decide then. When I installed mine it moved about a fair bit, but I have really good temps with it.
 

clav

Member
sco goth: if you're going to use heatshrink either use the lower portion of a soldering iron or buy a heat gun.

using a lighter can burn out the wires if done improperly or worse.
 

HoosTrax

Member
sco goth: if you're going to use heatshrink either use the lower portion of a soldering iron or buy a heat gun.

using a lighter can burn out the wires if done improperly or worse.
I use my hairdryer. Has a plastic attachment that narrows the mouth and helps direct the hot air.
 
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