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"I need a New PC!" 2013 Part 1. Haswell, Crysis 3, and secret fairy sauce. Read da OP

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Updated OP:
06/11/2013: Nvidia 320.18 WHQL Display Drivers CAUSING ISSUES. Uninstall them in safe mode and go back to 314.22(Download Win7/8-64Bit)

Just wanted to give this more attention, since I'm somewhat sure I was affected by this. Unfortunately this started happening right after my new mobo/cpu/ram build, and a fresh install of Windows, so it was a bit harder for me to pin down the cause. But with the new build and install I also updated my drivers to 320.18.

For the past week, while playing BF3, I've been getting these crashes to desktop. It would send me straight to desktop, but from what I could tell BF3 was still running in the background - it just wouldn't let me view it - as well as my mouse cursor disappearing. These crashes would happen usually very early after starting the game. At first I thought it was my OC that was causing it, so I turned off the OC in Afterburner and the problem went away for a day or two. Then the other night while playing I started getting psychedelic artifacts everywhere - which is what prompted my post above.

Initially I just did a quick driver uninstall and installed (Express) the previous drivers I had. But then yesterday I was getting the crashes again. So then I did another uninstall in addition to running that driver cleaner that the article mentioned. I did not do the registry scans. I ran the driver cleaner a couple times in between restarts, and then reinstalled the older drivers using Advanced, selecting "clean install", and only installing the driver and PhysX. So far I've been crash free, and I've seen no more artifacts, but it's all very disconcerting.

I've also been playing a bit of Of Orcs And Men this week, but have had no issues with that. Although that game is much less demanding on the system.
 

scogoth

Member
Go with Ivy. Better back for your buck and you will have an easier time finding deals.




In other news, been trying to post this for hours.

Photo%202013-06-11%2012%2024%2042.jpg

Finally can post something.... Looks sick!

Also word of advice, do not use silver coils if you are going bare copper and nickel plated parts, you will galvanize the nickel if you do. Stick with an liquid additive biocide
 
Just wanted to give this more attention, since I'm somewhat sure I was affected by this. Unfortunately this started happening right after my new mobo/cpu/ram build, and a fresh install of Windows, so it was a bit harder for me to pin down the cause. But with the new build and install I also updated my drivers to 320.18.

For the past week, while playing BF3, I've been getting these crashes to desktop. It would send me straight to desktop, but from what I could tell BF3 was still running in the background - it just wouldn't let me view it - as well as my mouse cursor disappearing. These crashes would happen usually very early after starting the game. At first I thought it was my OC that was causing it, so I turned off the OC in Afterburner and the problem went away for a day or two. Then the other night while playing I started getting psychedelic artifacts everywhere - which is what prompted my post above.

Initially I just did a quick driver uninstall and installed (Express) the previous drivers I had. But then yesterday I was getting the crashes again. So then I did another uninstall in addition to running that driver cleaner that the article mentioned. I did not do the registry scans. I ran the driver cleaner a couple times in between restarts, and then reinstalled the older drivers using Advanced, selecting "clean install", and only installing the driver and PhysX. So far I've been crash free, and I've seen no more artifacts, but it's all very disconcerting.

I've also been playing a bit of Of Orcs And Men this week, but have had no issues with that. Although that game is much less demanding on the system.


And I just got another crash.

Like I was saying before, it's unfortunate that I just installed some fresh parts and reinstalled Windows, because now I'm not sure if it's something related to these newer parts, a bad BF3 install, or my 670 is damaged. I haven't gotten anymore artifacts though - just that one night. And that's the only time I've ever seen artifacts on this card during many hours of BF3.

I think what I need to do is start playing some other games more and see if I get any crashes are artifacts with them.
 

Mr. Hyde

Member
I believe I am almost at where my new computer is going to be. Is there anything I should change for a better value? I am coming from a dead Q6660/8800GTS G92 combo.
ASUS DRW-24B1ST/BLK/B/AS Black SATA 24X DVD Burner - Bulk - OEM
Item #: N82E16827135204
$19.99

ASUS GTX660 TI-DC2O-2GD5 GeForce GTX 660 Ti 2GB 192-bit GDDR5 PCI Express 3.0 x16 HDCP Ready SLI Support Video Card
Item #: N82E16814121656
)$20.00 Mail-in Rebate Card
$279.99

CORSAIR Builder Series CX600 600W ATX12V v2.3 80 PLUS BRONZE Certified Active PFC Power Supply
Item #: N82E16817139028
-$10.00 Instant
$20.00 Mail-in Rebate Card
$79.99
$69.99

Microsoft Windows 7 Home Premium SP1 64-bit - OEM
Item #: N82E16832116986
$99.99

COOLER MASTER Hyper 212 Plus RR-B10-212P-G1 "Heatpipe Direct Contact" Long Life Sleeve 120mm CPU Cooler Compatible with Intel ...
-$10.00 Instant
$5.00 Mail-in Rebate Card
$34.99
$24.99

Intel Core i5-4670K Haswell 3.4GHz LGA 1150 84W Quad-Core Desktop Processor Intel HD Graphics BX80646I54670K
Item #: N82E16819116899

MSI Z87 MPOWER LGA 1150 Intel Z87 HDMI SATA 6Gb/s USB 3.0 ATX Extreme OC Flagship High Performance Triple CFX/ SLI Platform ...
Item #: N82E16813130691
-$30.00 Combo
$484.98
$454.98
1

Crucial Ballistix Sport 8GB 240-Pin DDR3 SDRAM DDR3 1600 (PC3 12800) Low Profile Desktop Memory Model BLS8G3D1609ES2LX0
Item #: N82E16820148661
Return Policy: Memory Standard Return Policy
-$66.99 Saving
$66.99
$0.

The ram is free with the motherboard purchase and the mb/processor combo saves some money.It also comes with a free copy of Last Light and a T-shirt.

There is also $42.00 worth of promo codes added to the cart, so the total after shipping is:

$1,026.68

I was also thinking about a SSD drive, but I am not sure which is the best for the price.

This is all from Newegg due to having an account with them.
 

kharma45

Member
I believe I am almost at where my new computer is going to be. Is there anything I should change for a better value? I am coming from a dead Q6660/8800GTS G92 combo.
ASUS DRW-24B1ST/BLK/B/AS Black SATA 24X DVD Burner - Bulk - OEM
Item #: N82E16827135204
$19.99

ASUS GTX660 TI-DC2O-2GD5 GeForce GTX 660 Ti 2GB 192-bit GDDR5 PCI Express 3.0 x16 HDCP Ready SLI Support Video Card
Item #: N82E16814121656
)$20.00 Mail-in Rebate Card
$279.99

CORSAIR Builder Series CX600 600W ATX12V v2.3 80 PLUS BRONZE Certified Active PFC Power Supply
Item #: N82E16817139028
-$10.00 Instant
$20.00 Mail-in Rebate Card
$79.99
$69.99

Microsoft Windows 7 Home Premium SP1 64-bit - OEM
Item #: N82E16832116986
$99.99

COOLER MASTER Hyper 212 Plus RR-B10-212P-G1 "Heatpipe Direct Contact" Long Life Sleeve 120mm CPU Cooler Compatible with Intel ...
-$10.00 Instant
$5.00 Mail-in Rebate Card
$34.99
$24.99

Intel Core i5-4670K Haswell 3.4GHz LGA 1150 84W Quad-Core Desktop Processor Intel HD Graphics BX80646I54670K
Item #: N82E16819116899

MSI Z87 MPOWER LGA 1150 Intel Z87 HDMI SATA 6Gb/s USB 3.0 ATX Extreme OC Flagship High Performance Triple CFX/ SLI Platform ...
Item #: N82E16813130691
-$30.00 Combo
$484.98
$454.98
1

Crucial Ballistix Sport 8GB 240-Pin DDR3 SDRAM DDR3 1600 (PC3 12800) Low Profile Desktop Memory Model BLS8G3D1609ES2LX0
Item #: N82E16820148661
Return Policy: Memory Standard Return Policy
-$66.99 Saving
$66.99
$0.

The ram is free with the motherboard purchase and the mb/processor combo saves some money.It also comes with a free copy of Last Light and a T-shirt.

There is also $42.00 worth of promo codes added to the cart, so the total after shipping is:

$1,026.68

I was also thinking about a SSD drive, but I am not sure which is the best for the price.

This is all from Newegg due to having an account with them.

DVD drive is probably droppable, when are you really going to use it? That PSU is mediocre, swap it to this http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16817151119&Tpk=seasonic g 550&IsVirtualParent=1

Swap the 660 Ti for a 7950 http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16814202003 It's a better card and has 4 free games.

I'd maybe look at the 3570K over the 4670K. It's not $40 better and the motherboards are cheaper for Z77. I can't see any reason that Haswell justifies its price over IB, unless you really want Last Light for free.

It's advisable too to shop around, even just using somewhere else like Amazon. It's not going to take long to make an account somewhere else and it'll save money. Do you have a Micro Center near you by any chance?
 

jiffy38

Member
So I'm about to decide between the i5 3570k at 199 or i7 3770k at 299. Since the i7 and mobo will come out to about the same price as a i5 4670k is the extra 100 dollars worth it? Mainly a gaming PC but I don't want to have to replace the CPU for at least 3 years. Would the step up be worth it on the older socket?
 

Wallach

Member
Well, I just ordered a new kit for the first time in a few years. Finally made the jump to SSD this time. Almost pulled the trigger on Win 8 but I just couldn't get over the UI on my nephew's laptop and I don't want to fuss with it this time. Maybe when Blue rolls around. I'm excited.

Edit: I suppose details are appropriate:

i5-3570k
MSI Z77A-G45 Gaming 'board (was very close to getting the Extreme4 over this but ASRock fucked me pretty good once)
Samsung 840 250GB SSD
ASUS DCUII 660 Ti
...Win 7 (I literally lost my install, shameful)

I'll be re-using my very sturdy XMS3, Hyper 212+ cooler (assuming this still fits an 1155, I think it does), CM 690 II case and one of my PSUs (either a brick of an Enermax 485w that is almost a decade old or a newer Antec 650 TruePower). I've also got a couple platter drives for storage as needed.
 

kennah

Member
Finally can post something.... Looks sick!

Also word of advice, do not use silver coils if you are going bare copper and nickel plated parts, you will galvanize the nickel if you do. Stick with an liquid additive biocide

Yeah, that's the plan. Thanks :)

Not pictured is the sample sleeves DazMode sent. Stuff is cool.
 

Fredescu

Member
Any feedback on this build? Thinking about pulling the trigger this week. Prices are Australian.

Fractal Design Node 304 - Power button on the side hidden from curious little fingers. No optical slot for same. No big vents on the top so I can sit my audio interface on top.
$123 Umart

Silverstone Strider 650W Gold ST65F-G - Chosen due to it's short length, which should let me fit longer cards into the 304 case. I actually have a spare Seasonic M12II, but it's borderline as to whether I could get long cards into the system with that PSU installed. I know I probably don't need 650W, but it's only $10 more than the 550W so eh.
$152 Umart

Silverstone Short Cable Kit PP05 - Apparently the regular Strider PSU cables are really long, so this is recommended for SFF builds using those PSUs
$23 IT Estate

ASUS P8Z77-I Deluxe - More USB 3.0 ports than the other Z77 ITX boards and supposedly better overclocking than the Gigabyte one (for a price premium though, to be fair)
$194 Umart

i5-3570k - You bastards have convinced me to go Ivy over Haswell. I really wanted Haswell too, but a decent overclock is what let me keep my Q9550 for so long, so I need something that can sustain a decent overclock without giving stupid temps in this tiny little case. I'll be doing some audio production stuff but probably not enough to need hyperthreading. Maybe. I'm sort of undecided.
$234 Greenbox IT

G.Skill Ares F3-1600C10D-16GAO 16GB (2x8GB) DDR3 - I could probably live with 8GB, but 16GB isn't that much more.
$135 Arc

Noctua NH-C12 SE14 - I just picked this because it was in MKenyons SFF guide. Any decent alternatives? There seems to be a bunch of similar top down Noctua models. I do want to overclock but I mostly want it to be quiet. I guess it also has to fit on the ITX board
$74 Umart

$935 total

Already have:
Samsung 840 Pro 128GB
WD Green 2TB
GTX570 - hoping it will fit but it's not the end of the world if it doesn't.


Any suggestions for additions/changes? My budget can probably stretch another $2-300 but that's sort of my emergency fund in case my current GPU doesn't fit.
 

Smash88

Banned
I reseated and put on the new TIM. But temps are still high. 100% I can see max 77C. Which is nice versus the 82-83C I was getting before. I see around a ~10C drop in temps (overall), but I assume that Haswell just runs hot @ 100% stress testing?

It's OCed to 4.1GHZ @ 1.2 vcore.

EDIT:

Raised the clock to 4.2GHZ @ 1.2vcore - Stable Intel Burn Test.

Temps are now at 80C @ 100%.

Everyone tells me here that it should be running cooler. But it isn't. Looks like my chip is just going to run hot no matter what - or Haswell is just hot like that.

It's not your chip, it's the gap between the chip and the shitty heatspreader. You can remedy that.

There is no gap. I installed washers so the backplate is more snug against the motherboard. I even checked when I took it off the first time where it had no washers, and it had great contact.

I did the criss-cross method of screwing down the cooler. I put a pea size amount of thermal paste in the middle and pushed down and screwed it down. I did everything right. I even installed the backplate in the proper direction. I can do nothing else other than delidding my 4770k in order to achieve better temps. I've been looking around and many sites are now reporting that retail 4770k's and Haswell in general is running 15C hotter and are not stable above 4.2-4.4GHZ. I think what I have is on par with what everyone has.

http://www.digitaltrends.com/computing/report-intel-haswell-processors-prone-to-overheating/

http://www.bit-tech.net/news/hardware/2013/06/06/haswell-heat/

http://www.cio.in/news/intels-new-haswell-chips-may-be-hot-not-good-way-418532013

We, the consumers were lied to, and what was showing in reviews and articles is not a good representation of what the majority of us got. Haswell is a mess and a joke. I'm extremely pissed off, I hope Broadwell will do better, but at this point I am really fed up with Intel's bullshit.

Also how is the Noctua TIM you recommended shitty? LIKE WTF?

My bad.

Double Edit: To anyone looking at Haswell and is an overclocking enthusiast. STAY AWAY FROM IT. Go Sandy or Ivy bridge.
 

senahorse

Member
There is no gap. I installed washers so the backplate is more snug against the motherboard. I even checked when I took it off the first time where it had no washers, and it had great contact.

How is the Noctua TIM you recommended shitty? LIKE WTF?

I believe he is talking about the IHS, fixed by delidding. If you are going to delid it, you probably want to use something like this:

images


Coollaboratory Liquid Ultra
 

Smash88

Banned
It's not your chip, it's the gap between the chip and the shitty heatspreader. You can remedy that.

I believe he is talking about the IHS, fixed by delidding. If you are going to delid it, you probably want to use something like this:

images


Coollaboratory Liquid Ultra

Ahhh, this makes sense. I thought he meant cooler to CPU connection. My bad (
I'm an idiot.
) mkenyon. I was confused by the way you phrased it.

Also I am really scared about delidding and the potential for fucking it up and ending up with nothing in the end. :/
 

kennah

Member
Ahhh, this makes sense. I thought he meant cooler to CPU connection. My bad (
I'm an idiot.
) mkenyon. I was confused by the way you phrased it.

Also I am really scared about delidding and the potential for fucking it up and ending up with nothing in the end. :/

You've spent this much, what's a little more.
 

mkenyon

Banned
The vice and hammer method has no recorded failed attempts. It's not as scary as it sounds. Those parts are way more sturdy than you might think.

If you want to push an OC, you pretty much have to. It'll also reduce power consumption.
You've spent this much, what's a little more.
That too.
 

senahorse

Member
I think there was one fail (well 2 if you count someone doing a sandy lol), but apparently the guy whacked it with full force, it popped of and hit a brick wall :).
 

Smash88

Banned
You've spent this much, what's a little more.

The vice and hammer method has no recorded failed attempts. It's not as scary as it sounds. Those parts are way more sturdy than you might think.

If you want to push an OC, you pretty much have to. It'll also reduce power consumption.

That too.

Well if I fuck up I have to pay another $370 that's what my fear is.

Also the fact is that I saved up this money through working part time (still in school) for the past 2 years in order to afford "the best".

I'm not rich by any means, just someone who loves this hobby. I might attempt to de-lid in the future, but now I won't.
 

Sober

Member
In Canada there doesn't seem to be much of a price differential to really choose IB over Haswell. I guess I'll just be conservative with an OC because I only plan on getting an air cooler for it. I can't really find anything but synthetic benchmarks making Haswell run super hot, is a normal gaming load going to be okay I presume?

Mid-July is when they start shipping the LGA1150 mobos with the USB3.0 fix correct? Any way to determine which is which at that stage or should I wait a tad longer and hope all the old revision boards have safely left the market?
 

Smash88

Banned
In Canada there doesn't seem to be much of a price differential to really choose IB over Haswell. I guess I'll just be conservative with an OC because I only plan on getting an air cooler for it. I can't really find anything but synthetic benchmarks making Haswell run super hot, is a normal gaming load going to be okay I presume?

Mid-July is when they start shipping the LGA1150 mobos with the USB3.0 fix correct? Any way to determine which is which at that stage or should I wait a tad longer and hope all the old revision boards have safely left the market?

Haswell here.

Normal gaming is fine. 60-66C - depending on the game - on an H100i. And I have it OCed to 4.2GHZ @ 1.2Vcore.

I have seen better temperatures as well for i5 Haswell, if you want to go for that. And if you are really upset with the temperatures, Broadwell will be using the same socket as Haswell, so there is upgrade potential.
 

Gotchaye

Member
My parents' 7 or 8 year old machine is starting to have issues, so I'm going to offload my still very functional i5-760 / GTX 460 machine on to them sometime this year. That puts me in the market for something to last me at least another three or four years. I'd appreciate some suggestions for putting together a new machine.

Current Specs / Reusing Parts: I'm not starting entirely from scratch; I have an extra Cooler Master 800W Silent Pro (80+ Gold) sitting around somewhere. And I'm keeping my hard drive (1TB Western Digital something or other) and SSD (240 GB Crucial C300), monitors (Asus VH242H 23.6"), mechanical keyboard (so I need a dedicated keyboard input), and speakers (typical stereo jack).

Budget: Call it $1k US. I'm not meaningfully constrained here but I would need to be sold on the benefits of an i7 over an i5 or a $600 GPU over a $400 one.

Main Use: Everything except video editing and streaming my own games. Lots of gaming, some emulation, and then all the normal computer stuff.

Monitor Resolution: I'm pretty happy gaming on a single 1080p monitor while leaving the other doing something else. I'm open to being talked into upgrading if people think there's a really noticeable difference; I really don't know anything about monitor quality other than that 1080p is noticeably better than 720p and under.

Specific Applications:I'd like to be able to make Dolphin work well (but my current computer can do an okay job with it as-is) and I'd like to make BF4 look really pretty when it gets here. It'd be nice to last most of the generation with significantly better than console graphics. I use Tecplot extensively for work (data visualization, reading 2-4 GB of data and displaying/rotating tens of millions of cells in 3D) and I occasionally run highly parallel CPU-intensive code on my own machine (Matlab or C).

Time frame: Before the end of the year would be nice. My parents' computer isn't going to last a whole lot longer.

Overclocking: Yes. Willing to try delidding if it gets me significant speedup. I don't want to mess with liquid cooling.

I'm probably somewhere between the Excellent and Enthusiast builds, basically.

The things I feel uncertain about:

I gather that Haswell is to be avoided. Should I go ahead and get a 3570K or 3770K right now, or am I likely to be able to find a better price before the end of the year? Where does one look for deals on CPUs and motherboards? Microcenter is an option and is only somewhat inconvenient (I like visiting Houston anyway). Edit: Oh, there's one in Dallas. I'll drive right by it at least four times between now and Christmas.

The new Nvidia GPUs seem disappointing. Given that I don't need this thing right away, is AMD expected to put out something substantially more capable by the end of the year? Will $400-$500 get me a lot more at that point?
 

kharma45

Member
So with all the talk around next gen consoles, would a Radeon 7870 XT carry me through next gen fairly comfortably? It might be too early to say but I'd love to build a PC now and grab a PS4/Wii U later:

http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16814202024

It's a good card, but it'll all depend on what sort of settings you deem acceptable.

My parents' 7 or 8 year old machine is starting to have issues, so I'm going to offload my still very functional i5-760 / GTX 460 machine on to them sometime this year. That puts me in the market for something to last me at least another three or four years. I'd appreciate some suggestions for putting together a new machine.



I'm probably somewhere between the Excellent and Enthusiast builds, basically.

The things I feel uncertain about:

I gather that Haswell is to be avoided. Should I go ahead and get a 3570K or 3770K right now, or am I likely to be able to find a better price before the end of the year? Where does one look for deals on CPUs? Microcenter is an option if it's worth a 3 hour drive.

The new Nvidia GPUs seem disappointing. Given that I don't need this thing right away, is AMD expected to put out something substantially more capable by the end of the year? Will $400-$500 get me a lot more at that point?

Prices aren't going to change much, if anything the IB Intel chips might start creeping up in price. If you've a Micro Center nearby in what you deem an acceptable driving range it's pretty good, you can get a 3770K for a great price.
 
It's a good card, but it'll all depend on what sort of settings you deem acceptable.

1080p/60 fps I suppose. I figure that in the future I can crossfire two 7870 XTs or something or go nVidia later in and be fine, so long as just my GPU needs replacing.

Worst case scenario, playing games on low/medium by mid-end gen.
 
So I bought some thermal paste (Noctua NT-H1). How many uses can I get out of this? Do I have to use everything ASAP? I'm worried it'll dry up and be useless like a stick of super glue.
 
So I bought some thermal paste (Noctua NT-H1). How many uses can I get out of this? Do I have to use everything ASAP? I'm worried it'll dry up and be useless like a stick of super glue.

I just bought the same paste. It's funny, the package says "good for storage for two years" but then says "usage time on cpu for 3 years". So it's ok on the cpu for 3 years but only good in storage in 2 years?
 

Sid

Member
Guys I need some help here,my 2.5 year old GTX 580 died a few days ago (burnt PCB) and MSI refuses to replace it because of that,now I have to buy a new card and I'm thinking about the 650Ti Boost which is a PCIe 3.0 card but my Asus Sabertooth x58 mobo only has PCIe 2.0x16 slots,now my question is will the card work in my system?
 

imotep

Neo Member
A quick question in regards to motherboards, obviously it's too soon for any concrete info on haswell mobo's but how have the Asus sabertooth ones faired in the past?
 

kharma45

Member
Guys I need some help here,my 2.5 year old GTX 580 died a few days ago (burnt PCB) and MSI refuses to replace it because of that,now I have to buy a new card and I'm thinking about the 650Ti Boost which is a PCIe 3.0 card but my Asus Sabertooth x58 mobo only has PCIe 2.0x16 slots,now my question is will the card work in my system?

it will work, its all backwards compatible. What is your budget for a GPU?
 

Addnan

Member
A quick question in regards to motherboards, obviously it's too soon for any concrete info on haswell mobo's but how have the Asus sabertooth ones faired in the past?
The other motherboards in the price range are generally a bit more equipped. The Sabertooth just looks pretty.
 

HoosTrax

Member
What exactly is the Sabertooth's purpose? Where is it slotted? Is it considered same tier as the old black/blue boards? Or between ROG and the black/blue?
 

Sid

Member
it will work, its all backwards compatible. What is your budget for a GPU?
Are you sure? my budget for a GPU is $250,I really don't want to spend too much on a card again due to my previous loss.

What exactly is the Sabertooth's purpose? Where is it slotted? Is it considered same tier as the old black/blue boards? Or between ROG and the black/blue?
Sabertooth is the name of the Motherboard,my GTX 580 was slotted in a PCIe 2.0 slot,I didn't get the third question.
 

News Bot

Banned
Alright, think I'm about to buy the new build but I want feedback first just in case there are any last minute changes worth getting.

Motherboard: MSI Z77A-GD55 (£93.60)
CPU: Intel i5 3570K (£164.94)
CPU Cooler: Hyper 212 EVO (£24.49)
RAM: G.Skill Ares 8GB 1866Mhz (£52.99)
SSD: Kingston HyperX 3K (£94.59)
Case: Fractal Design Define R4 (£74.58)

SUBTOTAL: £505.19

Amazon UK are the only retailer with free shipping to Northern Ireland. Everywhere else had cheaper... but postage made it cost even more.
 

HoosTrax

Member
Sabertooth is the name of the Motherboard,my GTX 580 was slotted in a PCIe 2.0 slot,I didn't get the third question.
Lol, one and two didn't answer my questions at all. I know what the Sabertooth is, I was asking if ASUS considers it a mainstream board like the Deluxe/E/Pro/etc, or if they consider it a premium board like the ROG boards (Maximus).
 

kharma45

Member
Alright, think I'm about to buy the new build but I want feedback first just in case there are any last minute changes worth getting.

Motherboard: MSI Z77A-GD55 (£93.60)
CPU: Intel i5 3570K (£164.94)
CPU Cooler: Hyper 212 EVO (£24.49)
RAM: G.Skill Ares 8GB 1866Mhz (£52.99)
SSD: Kingston HyperX 3K (£94.59)
Case: Fractal Design Define R4 (£74.58)

SUBTOTAL: £505.19

Amazon UK are the only retailer with free shipping to Northern Ireland. Everywhere else had cheaper... but postage made it cost even more.

Dabs and Novatech are quite reasonable to post over here, only a few quid when I've used them.

Is that the 120GB HyperX 3K? If so swap it to the V300, cheaper and not much worse in reality http://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B00A1ZTZOG/

Are you sure? my budget for a GPU is $250,I really don't want to spend too much on a card again due to my previous loss.

100 million billion trillion percent sure. For $250 you can do a lot better than a 650 Ti Boost. You could have a 7870 XT from Amazon for $245 after rebate plus Tomb Raider, BioShock and Far Cry 3 Blood Dragon for free http://www.amazon.com/dp/B00AWKYB1M/?tag=neogaf0e-20

There is also the MSI TF3 660 for $205 after rebate with Metro Last Light for free http://www.newegg.com/Product/Produ...-na-_-na&cm_sp=&AID=10446076&PID=3938566&SID= but it'd only really be on par with your 580, there'd be no improvement.

I would lean towards the 7870 XT myself, it's an improvement over your old 580 albeit not a huge one.
 

kennah

Member
Are you sure? my budget for a GPU is $250,I really don't want to spend too much on a card again due to my previous loss.


Sabertooth is the name of the Motherboard,my GTX 580 was slotted in a PCIe 2.0 slot,I didn't get the third question.

Get a used 670. That 650ti is slower than your 580.

And he was asking generally about Sabertooth boards, not yours specifically :)
 
Lol, one and two didn't answer my questions at all. I know what the Sabertooth is, I was asking if ASUS considers it a mainstream board like the Deluxe/E/Pro/etc, or if they consider it a premium board like the ROG boards (Maximus).

Somewhere between for people that want looks I guess. Costs more for the same/less features as their pro boards, but looks snazzy.
 

kharma45

Member
Getting a used 670 or 680 isn't a bad shout that Sid if you're happy to go used, plenty of people looking to off-load them now and move on to the 770 and 780.
 

Sid

Member
Getting a used 670 or 680 isn't a bad shout that Sid if you're happy to go used, plenty of people looking to off-load them now and move on to the 770 and 780.
I'm not exactly happy to go used BTW that 7870XT is eligible for international shipping or just to U.S.?
 

Double D

Member
I bought a GTX 770 yesterday! I finally upgraded my card after about 4 months of nearly buying about 12 different kinds of them. Anyways, it's my first upgrade in this PC I've built. Coming from a GTX 465. So I can just swap the cards out and turn the machine back on and everything will work appropriately?
 
So I just finished my FIRST BUILD EVER! And what a great feeling it was to hit that power button and have everything turn on and work! Feels really good, and overall not nearly as hard as I thought it would be! Thanks for the help in here ( had some trouble with video for a quick second lol) much appreciated.

Since this was a build as a gift for my father, I can't wait to so it again once I am ready to upgrade!
 

kharma45

Member
I bought a GTX 770 yesterday! I finally upgraded my card after about 4 months of nearly buying about 12 different kinds of them. Anyways, it's my first upgrade in this PC I've built. Coming from a GTX 465. So I can just swap the cards out and turn the machine back on and everything will work appropriately?

You're best to uninstall the drivers for the 465, then stick in the 770 and install the ones for it.
 

Lunzio

Member
Looking to get a 770 myself!

1 question though: is it worth seeking out the 4GB version over the 2GB version? What are the advantages to the (seemingly) $100 difference?

My main set-up involves a 24-inch 1080p monitor alongside a smaller (TBD) monitor used for web browsing and streaming movies.
 
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