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"I need a New PC!" 2013 Part 1. Haswell, Crysis 3, and secret fairy sauce. Read da OP

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AndyBNV

Nvidia
They seem to be putting a lot of time and effort into this stuff so I hope it works out for them, but I really wonder if it is all worth it. I mean everything they have showed with this looks like it will end up being really expensive for a little more quiet.

Some folks around here go to great expense to shave off a few extra decibels :)
 

Hazaro

relies on auto-aim
Need some help. Built a new PC since my old one died on Friday. I pretty much just bought a new mobo and CPU, then reused all my other parts from my old PC. So here's what I have:

MSI Z77 MPOWER
i5 3570K
GTX 670

Everything works fine, got Windows installed, but for some reason my graphics card isn't being detected. Onboard video works, but I can't see my card in device manager. When I try to install the drivers from nvidia, it says that it can't find any compatible graphics hardware. The video card is powered and the fans are running, so I don't think it's a power issue. Any suggestions?

Edit: Going to bed but I'll check for responses in the morning.
Trace all your cables to make sure they are plugged in and secure. Unplug and plug them.
Turn off PC, PSU. Unplug GPU, PCIE power. Reimstall GPU. Power on PSU, wait 15s, turn on PC. Make sure monitor is on correct input

If that doesnt work, take only the parts you need to POST outside the case and test them.
It's 3am what are you doing.

Also cool.

Also, were you at E3? Totally slipped my mind, along with checking the Monoprice IPS in person.
They seem to be putting a lot of time and effort into this stuff so I hope it works out for them, but I really wonder if it is all worth it. I mean everything they have showed with this looks like it will end up being really expensive for a little more quiet.
It's a bunch of German Austrian engineers. Few more bucks on a Noctua fan just cements them as being positioned as the best.
 

Restrain This

Neo Member
Right now I'm eyeing through parts for my first build.

My main concern at the moment is building something that will be reasonably future-proof for gaming--I'd like to have something that would basically last me through the next console generation's life time before needing to upgrade.

I'm thinking i5 3570K/GTX 770/8 GB RAM.

How long could I expect to go until needing a new rig and could I get away with anything cheaper?
 
Right now I'm eyeing through parts for my first build.

My main concern at the moment is building something that will be reasonably future-proof for gaming--I'd like to have something that would basically last me through the next console generation's life time before needing to upgrade.

I'm thinking i5 3570K/GTX 770/8 GB RAM.

How long could I expect to go until needing a new rig and could I get away with anything cheaper?

The i5 will last you at least 2-3 years maybe longer as will the card. Truth be told that the Core2Duos / Core2Quads still are enough for most games.
 

Addnan

Member
Right now I'm eyeing through parts for my first build.

My main concern at the moment is building something that will be reasonably future-proof for gaming--I'd like to have something that would basically last me through the next console generation's life time before needing to upgrade.

I'm thinking i5 3570K/GTX 770/8 GB RAM.

How long could I expect to go until needing a new rig and could I get away with anything cheaper?

Can't make promises like that, but that build is very good and should last a while. It's the same as what I have.
 

Gumbie

Member
Thinking about buying one of those new AMD FX-9590 for a new build. I know Intel beats them in single core performance but with these next gen consoles coming out with AMD 8 core processors a lot of games will probably start taking advantage of those extra cores. Does Intel have any 6 or 8 core stuff in the pipeline that isn't an expensive ass Xeon?

This will be my last build for several years so the more future proof the better.
 

musicjunkie

Neo Member
Asked this a few pages back and didn't see a reply.

Looking to get this MSI Lightning 770 card http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16814127742
it appears to need two 8pin power connectors.

The PSU I was looking at SeaSonic M12II http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16817151095
only appears to come with one 6 pin and one 8 pin.

Do you just take one of the 6 to 8 pin converters that comes with the GPU and plug it into the 6pin on my PSU or do a need a different power supply?
 

TheD

The Detective
Thinking about buying one of those new AMD FX-9590 for a new build. I know Intel beats them in single core performance but with these next gen consoles coming out with AMD 8 core processors a lot of games will probably start taking advantage of those extra cores. Does Intel have any 6 or 8 core stuff in the pipeline that isn't an expensive ass Xeon?

This will be my last build for several years so the more future proof the better.

It does not matter, Intel CPUs are way faster per a core, thus they do not need as many cores to beat an 8 core jaguar.
Buying an AMD CPU would be a huge mistake.
 

Gumbie

Member
It does not matter, Intel CPUs are way faster per a core, thus they do not need as many cores to beat an 8 core jaguar.
Buying an AMD CPU would be a huge mistake.

This is true with today's games, but unsure for the future. Did you read the article I linked? More developers are going to start threading their games for more cores specifically to take advantage of the cores in the next gen consoles. This is already happening in Crysis 3

http://www.pcgameshardware.de/Crysis-3-PC-235317/Tests/Crysis-3-Test-CPU-Benchmark-1056578/
 

TheD

The Detective
This is true with today's games, but unsure for the future. Did you read the article I linked? More developers are going to start threading their games for more cores specifically to take advantage of the cores in the next gen consoles. This is already happening in Crysis 3

http://www.pcgameshardware.de/Crysis-3-PC-235317/Tests/Crysis-3-Test-CPU-Benchmark-1056578/

It does not matter, even in heavily multi threaded programs Intel CPUs with half the cores and a clock speed disadvantage keep up with or beat 8 core AMD CPUs.
Having lots of CPU cores is not an advantage if the total real world processing power is less than a CPU with less cores.

Hell, that Crysis 3 benchmark you linked showed a Intel i7 keeping up with a 8 core AMD CPU, bar it having half the number of cores and running 500Mhz slower!
And the console CPUs are much slower than that AMD 4Ghz CPU.
 

Tak3n

Banned
This is true with today's games, but unsure for the future. Did you read the article I linked? More developers are going to start threading their games for more cores specifically to take advantage of the cores in the next gen consoles. This is already happening in Crysis 3

http://www.pcgameshardware.de/Crysis-3-PC-235317/Tests/Crysis-3-Test-CPU-Benchmark-1056578/

The best advice I can give you is, you have to go with whats here and now, if in 2 years suddenly games move and speciafically target those cores, then you could change your MB and processor....

But what if they dont..... what if in 2 years things are still the same, you would be kicking yourself....

Go with what we know now, i.e Intel is stronger, if that position changes it wont be overnight, and Intel would be bound to respond
 

clav

Member
Bummed out about the C1 stepping issue with Haswell motherboards and USB 3.0.

Still have to wait over 1.5 months for the C2 revision.
 
Just wanted to give this more attention, since I'm somewhat sure I was affected by this. Unfortunately this started happening right after my new mobo/cpu/ram build, and a fresh install of Windows, so it was a bit harder for me to pin down the cause. But with the new build and install I also updated my drivers to 320.18.

For the past week, while playing BF3, I've been getting these crashes to desktop. It would send me straight to desktop, but from what I could tell BF3 was still running in the background - it just wouldn't let me view it - as well as my mouse cursor disappearing. These crashes would happen usually very early after starting the game. At first I thought it was my OC that was causing it, so I turned off the OC in Afterburner and the problem went away for a day or two. Then the other night while playing I started getting psychedelic artifacts everywhere - which is what prompted my post above.
.
.
.

I know everybody has been eagerly awaiting an update to my situation, but I think I may have solved my BF3 crashes. For whatever reason it seems to have been an issue with Adobe Flash and Firefox, and how that was integrating with the BF3 browser. During most of the crashes, but not all, I would get an 'Adobe Flash has stopped working' error in Firefox, but I was assuming that it was a symptom rather than the cause. I even reinstalled the latest version of Flash and it still did it. Then to try something different, I uninstalled Flash and reinstalled the Internet Explorer version of Flash (Active X) and started using IE to run the BF3 browser. I've now gone crash free for about 4 hours, which is really long.

But that's not to say I think the 320.18 drivers aren't still f'd. That was the only time I've ever seen artifacts on my 670, and since rolling back the drivers I haven't seen any more. I'm still advising all my friends to not use the 320.18's.

In more positive news, I received my Fractal Arc Midi R2 case in the mail the other day. So sexy. Now I just need to wait for my additional fans to arrive, which unfortunately I had to order from some really slow-ass companies. Hopefully get those next week and then I can start the build.
 

Akai__

Member
Laptop of my friend died.

Is there a way to transfer the files on the HDD to an other HDD? He has some pretty important things on there and he doesn't have a backup.
 

clav

Member
I know everybody has been eagerly awaiting an update to my situation, but I think I may have solved my BF3 crashes. For whatever reason it seems to have been an issue with Adobe Flash and Firefox, and how that was integrating with the BF3 browser. During most of the crashes, but not all, I would get an 'Adobe Flash has stopped working' error in Firefox, but I was assuming that it was a symptom rather than the cause. I even reinstalled the latest version of Flash and it still did it. Then to try something different, I uninstalled Flash and reinstalled the Internet Explorer version of Flash (Active X) and started using IE to run the BF3 browser. I've now gone crash free for about 4 hours, which is really long.

But that's not to say I think the 320.18 drivers aren't still f'd. That was the only time I've ever seen artifacts on my 670, and since rolling back the drivers I haven't seen any more. I'm still advising all my friends to not use the 320.18's.

In more positive news, I received my Fractal Arc Midi R2 case in the mail the other day. So sexy. Now I just need to wait for my additional fans to arrive, which unfortunately I had to order from some really slow-ass companies. Hopefully get those next week and then I can start the build.
AND IT FEELS LIKE I AM JUST TOO CLOSE TO LOVE YOU WUB WUB WUB DUB DUB DUB WUB WUWB WUB

Something's wrong with the latest version of Flash with Nvidia drivers even on older cards.

When I say old, I am talking about as far as the Geforce 6000 series from 8-9 years ago. Something in the May update has messed with a lot of setups.
 

clav

Member
Laptop of my friend died.

Is there a way to transfer the files on the HDD to an other HDD? He has some pretty important things on there and he doesn't have a backup.

Depends.

If the HD is dead, no.

If the HD still works, then plug it directly to a desktop SATA port or buy a USB SATA enclosure.
 
The best advice I can give you is, you have to go with whats here and now, if in 2 years suddenly games move and speciafically target those cores, then you could change your MB and processor....

But what if they dont..... what if in 2 years things are still the same, you would be kicking yourself....

Go with what we know now, i.e Intel is stronger, if that position changes it wont be overnight, and Intel would be bound to respond

This is always my philosophy when buying computer hardware. Trying to future proof is a fools errand, as the future is always changing and components are always improving. Unless a new part is coming out next week or something, there's no point in waiting. Buy what you need for when you need it.
 

Macka

Member
This has been my rig for the last year:
CPU: Intel i7 3770k @ 3.5Ghz
Mobo: Asus Sabertooth Z77
GPU: Gigabyte Radeon 7870 2GB Overclocked
RAM: Corsair Vengeance 1600MHz 16GB (4x4GB) DDR3
PSU: Corsair AX750 Gold

Will I be able to run next-gen games at high settings with these specs? I should probably update my graphics card, right?
 

clav

Member
So uhh, a stock i5 2500 running at 124c while browsing the web is bad, right? Probably the cause of my recent constant freezing?

Yes very bad. Yes.

Check thermal paste, fans, and dust. In that order.

Once you remove a heatsink from a chip though, you will have to clean and reapply the thermal paste.
 

bro1

Banned
Asked this a few pages back and didn't see a reply.

Looking to get this MSI Lightning 770 card http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16814127742
it appears to need two 8pin power connectors.

The PSU I was looking at SeaSonic M12II http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16817151095
only appears to come with one 6 pin and one 8 pin.

Do you just take one of the 6 to 8 pin converters that comes with the GPU and plug it into the 6pin on my PSU or do a need a different power supply?

You can do that but I spoke with MSI and they prefer that you use two separate 6+2 lines to the card.
 
Yes very bad. Yes.

Check thermal paste, fans, and dust. In that order.

Once you remove a heatsink from a chip though, you will have to clean and reapply the thermal paste.

I opened it up the other day to suck up some dust. I don't know how to check thermal paste, though. Or rather, I don't know what it ought to look like. I did remove the fan and see the cpu, but if you don't know what to look for...
 

MLH

Member
So uhh, a stock i5 2500 running at 124c while browsing the web is bad, right? Probably the cause of my recent constant freezing?

124C at minimal load is very bad, normally the computer will auto shut down at 100C.
Two most likely possibilities:
The fan on the heat sink has stopped working, easy to check just look at it while the computer is on .
Or the Heat sink is not properly seated on the cpu, this is most likely. You will probably want to clean off the thermal paste and re-apply some more before re-seating the heat sink.

Temps should be around 30-40C at minimal load depending on the cooler.
 

Whooter

Member
I opened it up the other day to suck up some dust. I don't know how to check thermal paste, though. Or rather, I don't know what it ought to look like. I did remove the fan and see the cpu, but if you don't know what to look for...

Wait, did you pull the HSF off, eyeball the CPU, and put it back on? Without cleaning the CPU and HSF and reapplying thermal paste? I don't think that's a good idea...
 
Fucking hell, shouldn't it trip the thermal protection and shut down at that temp?

It has reset itself several times, but usually it just locks up. A few minutes prior to locking, the cursor fucks up and stops responding properly (the cursor doesn't update to the hand when you mouse over links, for example, or graphical glitches effect it), then I restart it and its right for a few minutes, or hours, at random. I installed speedfan or whatever it's called and it reported 124c, after which time I immediately shut it off and came to this thread on my phone.
 
I opened it up the other day to suck up some dust. I don't know how to check thermal paste, though. Or rather, I don't know what it ought to look like. I did remove the fan and see the cpu, but if you don't know what to look for...

Basically like this:
picture009se.jpg

Just make sure you know how to uninstall/reinstall the heatsink before you go digging around. Not that it's hard, but if your heatsink uses those plastic pins - they can be finicky.

If you do take it off, don't just put it back on without reapplying new thermal paste. Clean the old stuff off of both the cpu and the bottom of the heatsink. I just use paper towels and 70% isopropyl. Then apply new thermal paste to the cpu (around the center, like 2 or 3 grains of rice in amount) and set down the heatsink as evenly as you can before locking it in.
 

clav

Member
I opened it up the other day to suck up some dust. I don't know how to check thermal paste, though. Or rather, I don't know what it ought to look like. I did remove the fan and see the cpu, but if you don't know what to look for...

Sounds like you have a thermal paste problem.

Thermal paste is usually identified as a grey-colored toothpaste. For the stock Intel heatsinks, this is pre-applied, but most PC enthusiasts buy their own paste, clean the old one, and apply it themselves.

Once you remove the fan+heatsink combo, you need to reapply the thermal paste. Otherwise, there is no heat transfer going from the chip to the heatsink.

---------------

As for thermal pastes, I recommend Arctic Cooling MX-2 or the MX-4 as you can often find these on sale or even free after rebate. Some people say only use Arctic Silver 5, but I don't like silver-based compounds as they can degrade over time.
 

AndyBNV

Nvidia
No one said that he should get a 2 core CPU.

Forgot to quote this:

The i5 will last you at least 2-3 years maybe longer as will the card. Truth be told that the Core2Duos / Core2Quads still are enough for most games.

Dumb question, but is the fan on?

It has reset itself several times, but usually it just locks up. A few minutes prior to locking, the cursor fucks up and stops responding properly (the cursor doesn't update to the hand when you mouse over links, for example, or graphical glitches effect it), then I restart it and its right for a few minutes, or hours, at random. I installed speedfan or whatever it's called and it reported 124c, after which time I immediately shut it off and came to this thread on my phone.
 

Toski

Member
Thanks to Hazaro & Co. for the PC build info, got my new rig up and running on Monday. I would post pics, but I'm using a 3 year old Corsair TX 850 non-modular PSU, and the cable management is atrocious.
 

musicjunkie

Neo Member
You can do that but I spoke with MSI and they prefer that you use two separate 6+2 lines to the card.

Thank you. Probably just going to buy an EVGA card instead. Seems like requiring 2x8pin connectors is not the norm at the 770s I've been looking at.
 

Cyrillus

Member
So I recently purchased a 1440p IPS monitor, and am wondering what I need to be looking at graphics-wise to be able to run it. It's currently in a setup with two 1680x1050 monitors on the side, but I'm just looking to run games on the center monitor, perhaps in windowed mode (if the particular game supports it), with browsers/performance monitoring utilities on the other two monitors. The 6870 in my current rig is, well, "struggling" would be a nice way of saying it.

I'd prefer a single card solution if there is one, but I will be getting a crossfire/SLI board with possible plans to add a 2nd card around Christmas.
 
Clean the old stuff off of both the cpu and the bottom of the heatsink. I just use paper towels and 70% isopropyl.

Hypothetically, if I had nfi what isopropyl was, is there a common household substance to substitute it for?

I'm also assuming that Intel didn't give me a free tube of thermal paste. So I'll have to buy it from somewhere.

Once you remove the fan+heatsink combo, you need to reapply the thermal paste. Otherwise, there is no heat transfer going from the chip to the

Well that sucks. But there was no perceptible change in my PCs behaviour before/ after I opened it up, so it was almost certainly already fucked.

Dumb question, but is the fan on?

Fans are on inside the box, although I don't know which, specifically. Can I check that in speedfan?
 

HoosTrax

Member
Hypothetically, if I had nfi what isopropyl was, is there a common household substance to substitute it for?
Isopropyl alcohol is the fancy name for your ordinary bottles of rubbing alcohol, which any drugstore or grocery store should have (albeit, possibly in not as high concentration).
 
Hypothetically, if I had nfi what isopropyl was, is there a common household substance to substitute it for?

I'm also assuming that Intel didn't give me a free tube of thermal paste. So I'll have to buy it from somewhere.

You can get isopropyl at any grocery or drug store. Check near the band-aid isle. And it most commonly comes in 70% solution. It's just alcohol that dries really fast, which is a plus around electronics.

Yeah, getting your hands on new thermal paste is going to be way harder than isopropyl. =P
 
I don't think we use the term rubbing alcohol here, but I'm assuming Methylated Spirits are the same thing.

Well chemically they're not the same thing, but it may work just as well. Don't know. But it's really not that important and I didn't mean to confuse you. Isopropyl is just what I use, but you can use whatever you want. Just clean off the paste however you want and be mindful of the electronics. Done and done.
 
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