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"I need a New PC!" 2013 Part 1. Haswell, Crysis 3, and secret fairy sauce. Read da OP

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Just reformat. It'll take 20 mins to get back into windows fully installed if you have an SSD. Then just restore game backups or what have you. Two hours tops to get you back to where you were.

It's definitely what I'd be doing in that situation.

*edit*

Also, just to be clear, there is no conclusive evidence that the drivers are killing video cards. It's all speculative at the moment. Lets wait for something more substantial before getting the pitchforks.

I'll give this 5870 a couple days, and if I get no crashes during that time I'll be pretty convinced it's my card. At that point, do you think a reformat would help? I mean, would it be the physical card itself that is the problem, or some underlying driver or registry issue?

If I do get crashes with the 5870 I'll definitely reformat. AKA Plan E
 

ss_lemonade

Member
FUUUUUUUUUUUUUUK MY LIFE.

BF3 just crashed again, twice in a row, while using IE as the browser. So I guess my new fix doesn't work after all.

Plan D: I just installed an old 5870 I had lying around, so we'll see if this clears it up. But at this point I'm not sure if I want it to or not. If the problem goes away, that means it's my 670 - and since it never did this before that would likely mean that 320.18 screwed up my card, which would mean I would have to drive down to Nvida and knock over some magazine racks.

PC sucks. I'm going full WiiU.

EDIT: Man do this 5000's run hot and loud.
Have anything OC'ed? I remember bf3 being extremely sensitive to overclocks on my setup before (though I had different issues like half of my screen swapping with the other half)
 
Have anything OC'ed? I remember bf3 being extremely sensitive to overclocks on my setup before (though I had different issues like half of my screen swapping with the other half)

Yeeeeah, my 4670K is at 4.0. I guess it's kind of a no-brainer I should have turned that off awhile ago. I'll make that Plan E and reformatting Plan F.
 

mkenyon

Banned
I'll give this 5870 a couple days, and if I get no crashes during that time I'll be pretty convinced it's my card. At that point, do you think a reformat would help? I mean, would it be the physical card itself that is the problem, or some underlying driver or registry issue?

If I do get crashes with the 5870 I'll definitely reformat. AKA Plan E
When drivers get messy, there's only one way to truly fix it.

nuke-it.jpg
 

Gotchaye

Member
If I'm moving a hard drive with an existing Windows installation to a new motherboard and CPU, what do I need to watch out for? I want to do this for a Windows 8 installation and a Windows XP one. I figure for convenience I should predownload relevant drivers onto a thumb drive, and I likewise have Windows 8 bootable from the thumb drive in case that's necessary. Do I need to de-register my CD key with Microsoft or something first? Is there a significant benefit to just doing a clean reformat?
 

mkenyon

Banned
It can and will be funky as hell unless you do a clean format.

The only drivers I generally grab are Chipset, LAN, and VGA. After fresh format, install those. Then run Windows update. Then, if there are any devices that are unidentified in Device Manager, download the corresponding driver.
 

kharma45

Member
I already bought regular sized RAM when it was cheap, so I guess I'm screwed on that part. Oh well, it'll just require a bit of extra effort in maneuvering pieces.

I did change the mobo to the MSI GD55 though, thanks for the suggestion.

Never worry, you'll probably be alright still.
 

Plasmid

Member
So guys my ASROCK b75m-DGS died 2 nights ago.

At first i thought it was the PSU, ordered a new one, but found a way to jumpstart my old one, and it works fine. Then i replaced the CMOS battery, for some reason a copper wire popped, a bit of smoke popped up and i'm fucked out of luck on a motherboard now haha.

Anyway, i need some reccomendations for a new motherboard, i'd really like a USB 3 drive on it at least.

I have an intel i3 3220, a MSI twin frozr ii, 8 GB ram, a 1 tb hard drive and an optical DVD drive. I have a budget of around 70-90 dollars USD. Can anyone help me? I really don't wanna buy a new motherboard and get shafted.

What should i do with my old mobo? It's only 6 months old (or bought 6 months ago at least).
 
The EVGA ACX cooler is looking like the best of the bunch right now. It has *really* nice fans on it that run super quiet.

I was going to say, I have the EVGA ACX Cooler GTX 780 and I can barely hear it. I can definitely feel the heat as it cooks me in my room but audible wise, it's great.
 

ahayschi

Neo Member
I'm getting close (~ a week) to buying the parts for my first build. You guys have already been a great help, but do you have any final suggestions?

I will be doing a lot of programming & compiling next year at university, and I generally multitask. I'll also be working on two displays, and I'll be gaming a lot this summer after years in hiatus. 50-60fps would be fine with me. Also, I plan on overclocking and adding a custom water cooling loop sometime next year.

PCPartPicker
 

Anton668

Member
so I was having issues with my new build.

kept crashing quite often. World of Tanks would also crash on a regular basis.

long story short, deleted a WoT mod and all seems fine now.

weird that a game mod would cause sys wide crashes
 

RSTEIN

Comics, serious business!
Hi PC GAF. I'm looking at getting back into PC gaming after a ~15 year hiatus. Last time I was gaming primarily on PC I had a 200 mhz processor.

I have a few questions if you don't mind!

Use: gaming, multimedia, movies (connected to TV).


1) I have a 50" LCD and would love to play on it. How do games like BF3 look on a big screen? Anything extra I need to play on TV? I'm also planning on a normal LCD for word processing, strategy games, etc.

2) I would like to spend < $1,000. Should I just stick to the "Great - Best Value" build in the OP? Will the i5 processor last a few years? Is it easy to upgrade later? What's the difference between the GTX 770 and GTX 660? I wouldn't mind spending more on a graphics card if it's worth it.

3) Anyone build PCs in Toronto?


Thanks so much!
 

M3z_

Member
I bought 1 780 ACX while I saw it in stock on Newegg. Then while I tried to get my money lined up with the bank to buy a second it was sold out. =/ I guess I will wait for SLI.
 

knitoe

Member
I bought 1 780 ACX while I saw it in stock on Newegg. Then while I tried to get my money lined up with the bank to buy a second it was sold out. =/ I guess I will wait for SLI.
Running SLI / CF, it's better with the reference blower cards since the heat is blown outside of the case. 2 or more cards blowing hot air inside the case not ideal.
 

M3z_

Member
That's theoretical, people on OCN have showed that temps are still better for the ACX in SLI than the blower cards.
 

etrain911

Member
PCPartPicker part list: http://pcpartpicker.com/p/166Bl
Price breakdown by merchant: http://pcpartpicker.com/p/166Bl/by_merchant/
Benchmarks: http://pcpartpicker.com/p/166Bl/benchmarks/

CPU: Intel Core i5-3570K 3.4GHz Quad-Core Processor ($189.99 @ Microcenter)
CPU Cooler: Cooler Master Hyper 212 Plus 76.8 CFM Sleeve Bearing CPU Cooler ($19.99 @ Newegg)
Motherboard: Gigabyte GA-Z77X-UD3H ATX LGA1155 Motherboard ($139.99 @ Amazon)
Memory: GeIL EVO Veloce Series 8GB (2 x 4GB) DDR3-1600 Memory ($52.99 @ Newegg)
Storage: Samsung 840 Series 120GB 2.5" Solid State Disk ($94.99 @ NCIX US)
Storage: Seagate Barracuda 1TB 3.5" 7200RPM Internal Hard Drive ($70 @ Outlet PC)
Video Card: Sapphire Radeon HD 7950 3GB Video Card ($279.99 @ Newegg)
Case: NZXT Tempest 210 ATX Mid Tower Case ($47.06 @ Amazon)
Power Supply: Corsair Builder 600W 80 PLUS Bronze Certified ATX12V Power Supply ($37.99 @ Newegg)
Operating System: Microsoft Windows 8 (OEM) (64-bit) ($89.00 @ Amazon)
Monitor: Acer G215HVBbd 60Hz 21.5" Monitor ($89.99 @ Microcenter)
Keyboard: Lite-On SK-1788/BS Wired Standard Keyboard ($12.98 @ Newegg)
Mouse: Microsoft 5CJ-00003 Wired Optical Mouse ($19.07 @ Amazon)
Total: $1129.01
(Prices include shipping, taxes, and discounts when available.)
(Generated by PCPartPicker 2013-06-13 21:08 EDT-0400)

What do you think, GAF? Should I be good for next-gen console ports for at least the first 2 years?
 

scogoth

Member
Hi PC GAF. I'm looking at getting back into PC gaming after a ~15 year hiatus. Last time I was gaming primarily on PC I had a 200 mhz processor.

I have a few questions if you don't mind!

Use: gaming, multimedia, movies (connected to TV).


1) I have a 50" LCD and would love to play on it. How do games like BF3 look on a big screen? Anything extra I need to play on TV? I'm also planning on a normal LCD for word processing, strategy games, etc.

2) I would like to spend < $1,000. Should I just stick to the "Great - Best Value" build in the OP? Will the i5 processor last a few years? Is it easy to upgrade later? What's the difference between the GTX 770 and GTX 660? I wouldn't mind spending more on a graphics card if it's worth it.

3) Anyone build PCs in Toronto?


Thanks so much!

1) Most games look fine on big screens and steam even has a big screen mode with some games that support larger menus for that exact use.
2) Yes. Yes. Easy to upgrade GPU, the motherboard socket is dead but the CPU will last you anyways. 770 is waaaaaaay better than then 660 hence the +$200. At 1080p the 770 is amazing and will probably last you a good number of years.
3) I am in Toronto and am more than happy to answer questions, help you build, or build it for you. If you would rather have a store build it for you NCIX will build it for $50 if you buy all the parts from them.
 

Pancakes

hot, steaming, as melted butter slips into the cracks, drizzled with sticky sweet syrup OH GOD
Nothing worse than your package being a few miles away when UPS stops delivering for the day :(. Now it will probably be dropped off while I'm at work.

I wanna get to assembling already.
 
How much better is the Intel i5 3570k vs. AMD A8 660k black edition? I received the AMD A8 for FREE, was wondering if i should keep it and grab an i5 instead? my computer is old, AMD Athalon II x4 620
 

Colin.

Member
Here is a list of the parts that will be assembled in the new system:

CPU: Intel Core i5-4670K
Motherboard: Gigabyte GA Z87 D3HP (With free Be Quiet cooler)
Graphics Card: Gigabyte 7950 3GB
Memory: Crucial Ballistix Tactical Memory (2 x 8GBs)
Hard Drives: 2TB Seagate Barracuda + Samsung F3 1TB
SSD: Samsung 840 250GB
Optical Drive: LiteOn IHAS124-19 24x DVDRW

I will have this along with 4 case fans, monitor + TV, and of course the keyboard and mouse draining power too. I currently have a OCZ StealthXstream II 600W PSU, but I'm not sure if it will be enough. Any thoughts?
 

senahorse

Member
Well as I got the first parts in for my new build I thought it time to post what I plan and listen to any feedback or criticisms :).

Just in today, the following:

case_zpsb552040e.jpg~original


Corsair 900D case and Seasonic 1000W Platinum PSU.

I am going to be slowly building this over the next month or so, and this is what I currently have planned:

  • CPU: 4770K (will be delidded and be using Coollaboratory liquid ultra between die and IHS)
  • Motherboard: Still up in the air but hoping the Asus Maximus VI, if not maybe one of the Gigabyte OC boards.
  • RAM: 16GB DDR3 (not decided on as of yet)
  • GPU: 2 x EVGA 780 (Chosen EVGA as I can put a block on them without voiding warranty)
  • HDD: 1 x 256GB Samsung 840 Pro SSD, 1 x WD 2TB Black

Cooling (some of this may change but following are where I am at with it atm)
  • CPU Block: Heatkiller Rev3.0 (probably the copper version)
  • GPU Blocks: Swiftech Komodo (comes with backplate)
  • Radiators: 2 x XSPC RX360's (probably top and bottom)
  • Pumps: either Alphacool VPP655 or Aquacomputer D5. Will be using 2 mainly for redundancy.
  • Reservoir: Not decided on yet
  • Pump tops: not decided on yet (depends on res choice)
  • Fittings: Either bitspower, koolance or monsoon (combination of angle/rotary fittings as well as fitting a drain somewhere into the loop).
  • Tubing: either primochill or XSPC
  • Fans: Pretty much decided on Scythe GT's (on rads either pull or push/pull, still undecided)
  • Fan/Pump Controller: Undecided. But either Aquaero Pro/XT or Lamptron CW611. I understand the Aquaero is the best, but with costs blowing out, I may just go with the Lamptron but if so will need to mod it to allow proper pump control. Which ever controller chosen it will also monitor flow and temp.
  • Flow Meter: Koolance INS-FM18


I think that's about it for now, there are a few miscellaneous items missing but that's it for now. Oh and I haven't forgotten a DVD drive, I just won't be using one. The Haswell is chosen over Ivy for a couple of reasons, one is I will be using Dolphin and from evidence so far it seems to really take advantage of the higher IPC of Haswell, also I like new things. Happy to take any feedback or suggestions for alternatives.
 

RSTEIN

Comics, serious business!
1) Most games look fine on big screens and steam even has a big screen mode with some games that support larger menus for that exact use.
2) Yes. Yes. Easy to upgrade GPU, the motherboard socket is dead but the CPU will last you anyways. 770 is waaaaaaay better than then 660 hence the +$200. At 1080p the 770 is amazing and will probably last you a good number of years.
3) I am in Toronto and am more than happy to answer questions, help you build, or build it for you. If you would rather have a store build it for you NCIX will build it for $50 if you buy all the parts from them.

Thanks, sending you a PM!
 

mkenyon

Banned
  • CPU: 4770K (will be delidded and be using Coollaboratory liquid ultra between die and IHS)
  • Motherboard: Still up in the air but hoping the Asus Maximus VI, if not maybe one of the Gigabyte OC boards.
  • RAM: 16GB DDR3 (not decided on as of yet)
  • GPU: 2 x EVGA 780 (Chosen EVGA as I can put a block on them without voiding warranty)
  • HDD: 1 x 256GB Samsung 840 Pro SSD, 1 x WD 2TB Black

Cooling (some of this may change but following are where I am at with it atm)
  • CPU Block: Heatkiller Rev3.0 (probably the copper version)
  • GPU Blocks: Swiftech Komodo (comes with backplate)
  • Radiators: 2 x XSPC RX360's (probably top and bottom)
  • Pumps: either Alphacool VPP655 or Aquacomputer D5. Will be using 2 mainly for redundancy.
  • Reservoir: Not decided on yet
  • Pump tops: not decided on yet (depends on res choice)
  • Fittings: Either bitspower, koolance or monsoon (combination of angle/rotary fittings as well as fitting a drain somewhere into the loop.
  • Tubing: either primochill or XSPC
  • Fans: Pretty much decided on Scythe GT's (on rads either pull or push/pull, still undecided)
  • Fan/Pump Controller: Undecided. But either Aquaero Pro/XT or Lamptron CW611. I understand the Aquaero is the best, but with costs blowing out, I may just go with the Lamptron but if so will need to mod it to allow proper pump control. Which ever controller chosen it will also monitor flow and temp.
  • Flow Meter: Koolance INS-FM18


I think that's about it for now, there are a few miscellaneous items missing but that's it for now. Oh and I haven't forgotten a DVD drive, I just won't be using one. The Haswell is chosen over Ivy for a couple of reasons, one is I will be using Dolphin and from evidence so far it seems to really take advantage of the higher IPC of Haswell, also I like new things. Happy to take any feedback or suggestions for alternatives.
Let me first start off with saying that's an absolutely fantastic parts list. Here's my personal advice on some of the parts.

1) Swiftech Komodo blocks are pretty cheaply made. They actually just drill out the acetal/acrylic portion and have almost zero machining on the copper itself. In real terms, that's not going to mean a whole lot, it just personally irks me. GPU blocks are almost entirely about aesthetics these days, as even a 10C difference in GPU temps means literally nothing. Personally though, I'd never buy them.

2) EK or Bitspower tube reservoir will do you good.

3) The dual D5 EK pump top can not be matched. Excellent performance, and the mounting system completely decouples your pumps. Even at the '5' setting, you certainly won't hear the pumps over the GTs.

4) With the point above in mind, a pump controller is really unnecessary with D5 Varios. It's more of just something to tinker with. If you know that going in, then by all means.

5) Primochill Advanced LRT over XSPC. No plasticizer issues with Advanced LRT.

6) Push almost always has better results than pull. The only reason to do Push/Pull is to be able to spin your fans down. Otherwise, the GT's will have no issue dissipating your heat with those two 360s. So if you want to run them full on, just go with push.

7) While Gigabyte's UEFI is fricken amazing, as are the chosen components and general ability, the RoG features seem just too damn good to pass up this round. The Maximus VI Extreme will be shipping with a delidded retention bracket, if you just want to skip out on the heat spreader entirely. The PLX chip on it is great too, which will be important for your SLI setup. Though honestly, you might think about going SB-E with a 3820. 40 PCI-E lanes vs. 16 is a pretty big deal for a monster system like yours.

8) EK also sells mounting kits made specifically for delidded/IHS-less procs. That's pretty cool.
 

senahorse

Member
Let me first start off with saying that's an absolutely fantastic parts list. Here's my personal advice on some of the parts.

1) Swiftech Komodo blocks are pretty cheaply made. They actually just drill out the acetal/acrylic portion and have almost zero machining on the copper itself. In real terms, that's not going to mean a whole lot, it just personally irks me. GPU blocks are almost entirely about aesthetics these days, as even a 10C difference in GPU temps means literally nothing. Personally though, I'd never buy them.

Didn't know this about these blocks, I assumed being as they are same blocks as EVGA's Hydro Coppers they would be decent. I will look into this more.

2) EK or Bitspower tube reservoir will do you good.

Added to my research list.

3) The dual D5 EK pump top can not be matched. Excellent performance, and the mounting system completely decouples your pumps. Even at the '5' setting, you certainly won't hear the pumps over the GTs.

Thanks, I just looked this up and it looks perfect for my needs. My current basic design was using 2 reservoirs, this will only use 1 which is good (cheaper :D) and it seems I can block two ports (inlet/outlet) and run the pumps in series.

4) With the point above in mind, a pump controller is really unnecessary with D5 Varios. It's more of just something to tinker with. If you know that going in, then by all means.

The pump controller certainly isn't necessary, you're dead right. Because I was planning on getting the fan controller I thought it would be nice to control the pumps as well, just a nicety I guess. To be honest as great as the aquacomputer gear is, I will probably just go with the lamptron which will do fans, temp and flow just fine. It should also do pumps but there is an issue with D5's atm, there is someone working on a PCB to remedy this, so maybe something for the future.

5) Primochill Advanced LRT over XSPC. No plasticizer issues with Advanced LRT.

Thanks, put to the top of the list.

6) Push almost always has better results than pull. The only reason to do Push/Pull is to be able to spin your fans down. Otherwise, the GT's will have no issue dissipating your heat with those two 360s. So if you want to run them full on, just go with push.

The reason I was thinking pull, at least with the bottom rad was to use it as in ingress point and keep exhausts the top and rear of the case. Still much research/testing to do here, I will take your advice on-board. I was hoping to run the fans at slower speeds while still maintaining good cooling so push/pull might be the way to go.

7) While Gigabyte's UEFI is fricken amazing, as are the chosen components and general ability, the RoG features seem just too damn good to pass up this round. The Maximus VI Extreme will be shipping with a delidded retention bracket, if you just want to skip out on the heat spreader entirely. The PLX chip on it is great too, which will be important for your SLI setup. Though honestly, you might think about going SB-E with a 3820. 40 PCI-E lanes vs. 16 is a pretty big deal for a monster system like yours.

The Asus is definitely at the top of my list at the moment. As for going 2011 it's something that I have contemplated seriously. 1055 is definitely winning atm, but only just so that may change before I pull the trigger.

8) EK also sells mounting kits made specifically for delidded/IHS-less procs. That's pretty cool.

Running the chip naked is certainly an option but I would rather not use liquid metal on the block. Again something I will look into more.



Thanks very much for the feedback Mkenyon, I really appreciate it.

I have put comments inline with yours to make it easier to read :). Lots of things not set in stone as of yet, and I have plenty of time to check it all out, thanks again.
 
Your Current Specs: AMD Phenom II x4 970 BE @3.5GHz / 8GB DDR2 Kingston HyperX 866MHz?? / ASUS M4A78 PLUS (AM2+ socket) / Radeon 6950 2GB (I've read this model can't be BIOS flashed to a 6970) / 550W ePower (no, it hasn't caught fire yet) / RaidMax Tornado ATX Mid Tower Case
Budget: $1200, USA

Main Use: Gaming: 5, Video Editing: 2.5 (YouTube videos comprised of FRAPS game footage, done on occasion for fun; home videos; using Sony Vegas), Excellent General Performance (Netflix HD, Blu Ray playback, Word, lots of internet tabs) 5. GPU must have an HDMI out. Support for a capture card.

Monitor Resolution: 1080p. Might upgrade to a 120Hz monitor down the line. Which is easier to support (money wise) 120FPS or 1440p??

List SPECIFIC games or applications that you MUST be able to run well: The only game I don't like my performance in on my current system is The Witcher 2. For future games, I'd like to play GTA V, The Witcher 3, Watch_Dogs and Star Citizen well, 60FPS minimum. I'm okay with lowering AA and shadow quality to bump up FPS.

Looking to reuse any parts?: I'll be bringing in my 128GB Crucial M4 SSD and 1TB Western Digital Black from my old computer. Might keep my 6950 2GB for now as well; see below.

When will you build?: I've already purchased the Define R4 case, b/c of the $80 sale. I don't have to build right away. My game plan was to either: 1) upgrade everything except my Radeon 6950 until the 9xxx and 8xx GPUs show up, or 2) Upgrade my 6950 to the cheapest GPU that can hold the line (i.e. play The Witcher 2 well) until the 9xxx and 8xx show up, and then I'll "go big" on the GPU.

Will you be overclocking?: Yes, to keep that 3770k viable as long as possible. I imagine with next gen console CPUs being so weak, that may end up being feasible.

PC build I have in mind: http://pcpartpicker.com/p/16cot

Will this build, with my 6950 2GB, run The Witcher 2 at 40+ FPS consistently? If so, I'll just keep my 6950 until 9xxx and 8xx come out. How long do you think a 3770k will last? The next chip in the current Haswell-socket will be another small upgrade, correct? If so, I figure I'll go with a 3770k.

I'm still not sure if I want to upgrade (I figured the Fractal R4 is "future proof" for a long time; a case is case; unless everything changes to New Mac Pro Chimneys :D). I might just wait until whatever's after Haswell becomes available. My only reasons to upgrade are The Witcher 2's performance and tech-lust. The boost in fidelity and performance in all my other games would be nice too, but I'm not bothered by it much in anything else but TW2. I'm just itching because I'm at a point in my life currently where I can afford to treat myself to a new gaming machine.
 

senahorse

Member
This Corsair 900D is amazing, not only is it bloody huge, but the build quality is first rate, very very happy with my purchase.

Shitty phone pic:

case2_zpsb8a04f17.jpg~original
 
Did anyone's R4 ship with the front panel disconnected? Mine arrived from NewEgg this way and when I attach it, the plastic tabs feel very loose. Normal? Time to RMA?
 

M3z_

Member
I got a second 780 ACX on newegg. Someone must of canceled their order cause stock came back for a short time after it had sold out. Newegg currently says that both cards are in the packaging stage so hopefully I don't get a message saying they cannot fulfill my order. Pretty stoked about SLI 780's for 1440p 100hz, bring on the Witcher 3.
 
Guys, I'm stressing and need some help. I'm planning on studying abroad this coming year and need my pc...problem is that my case is a damn monster. I thought about selling it and buying a laptop, but I know I'd get screwed considering how much it cost to build. Anyone have any experience taking a desktop with them outside the country?
 
Any tips on how to install Windows 8 on my new rig? I bought the $40 dollar upgrade of Win 8 on my current system. I don't have my original Win 7 CD's.

Will I need to buy an Win 8 OEM version :/ ?
 

M3z_

Member
Guys, I'm stressing and need some help. I'm planning on studying abroad this coming year and need my pc...problem is that my case is a damn monster. I thought about selling it and buying a laptop, but I know I'd get screwed considering how much it cost to build. Anyone have any experience taking a desktop with them outside the country?

Package it well. Make sure you remove the graphics card and pack it separately. Maybe stuff the insides full of anti-static bubble wrap. Shipping it is going to cost a ton, but at least you can get insurance on it that way.
 

Gotchaye

Member
Any tips on how to install Windows 8 on my new rig? I bought the $40 dollar upgrade of Win 8 on my current system. I don't have my original Win 7 CD's.

Will I need to buy an Win 8 OEM version :/ ?

I'm doing something similar.

If you bought the digital upgrade, MS should have sent you a download link in an email (subject: Thanks for ordering Windows 8). That link still works. Download and run the program Windows8-Setup.exe. You'll have to redownload Windows 8, probably. At the end, the program offers you the option to install right away, which is the upgrade, but you can also save a .iso and then burn it to a disc or load it on to a bootable USB. I am pretty sure (I haven't gotten all my parts yet, so I haven't actually gotten to this step) that this .iso is indistinguishable from the Windows 8 install CD you could go out and buy. I still need to figure out how to go about de-registering my current computer, if that's something that's even necessary.

Edit: My experience with Windows 7 is that the bootable USB option, at least, can fail horribly if you're downloading on a 32 bit OS and intending to set up a new 64 bit installation. That required downloading some other random file.

Edit2: Or just use this link to get Windows8-Setup.exe - http://windows.microsoft.com/en-gb/windows-8/upgrade-product-key-only But Googling around it looks like it might not be possible to do a clean install on a system that doesn't have any version of Windows on it with this. Oddly, it's still possible to clean install instead of upgrading, but only if the PC already has an older version of Windows.

Edit3: But other people claim it works as long as you create the bootable USB from a computer with Windows. So now I'm confused. Edit4: And when I tell the program to save a .iso file it reminds me to be sure to burn it to a DVD when I'm ready to install Windows 8 to "another partition", so presumably it works clean. Edit 5: You can start up Windows8-Setup again to tell it to create a bootable USB even after you've downloaded the .iso. You can also use this program to make the bootable USB from the .iso, which may be handy later: http://images2.store.microsoft.com/prod/clustera/framework/w7udt/1.0/en-us/Windows7-USB-DVD-tool.exe
 

Nightz

Member
Did anyone's R4 ship with the front panel disconnected? Mine arrived from NewEgg this way and when I attach it, the plastic tabs feel very loose. Normal? Time to RMA?

Mine came attached. Not loose at all.

Also an update on my situation...looks like my GTX 670 broke. I tried reseating everything, unplugging, replugging, using different cables, plugging into different slots, only using the bare minimum parts and no dice. I pulled out an old 460 that I had and that worked perfectly fine. Guess I'll use that for the time being while I contact Gigabyte about an RMA for the 670. Good thing there's a 3 year warranty.
 
I'm doing something similar.

If you bought the digital upgrade, MS should have sent you a download link in an email (subject: Thanks for ordering Windows 8). That link still works. Download and run the program Windows8-Setup.exe. You'll have to redownload Windows 8, probably. At the end, the program offers you the option to install right away, which is the upgrade, but you can also save a .iso and then burn it to a disc or load it on to a bootable USB. I am pretty sure (I haven't gotten all my parts yet, so I haven't actually gotten to this step) that this .iso is indistinguishable from the Windows 8 install CD you could go out and buy. I still need to figure out how to go about de-registering my current computer, if that's something that's even necessary.

Edit: My experience with Windows 7 is that the bootable USB option, at least, can fail horribly if you're downloading on a 32 bit OS and intending to set up a new 64 bit installation. That required downloading some other random file.

Edit2: Or just use this link to get Windows8-Setup.exe - http://windows.microsoft.com/en-gb/windows-8/upgrade-product-key-only But Googling around it looks like it might not be possible to do a clean install on a system that doesn't have any version of Windows on it with this. Oddly, it's still possible to clean install instead of upgrading, but only if the PC already has an older version of Windows.

Edit3: But other people claim it works as long as you create the bootable USB from a computer with Windows. So now I'm confused. Edit4: And when I tell the program to save a .iso file it reminds me to be sure to burn it to a DVD when I'm ready to install Windows 8 to "another partition", so presumably it works clean.

Edit4: And when I tell the program to save a .iso file it reminds me to be sure to burn it to a DVD when I'm ready to install Windows 8 to "another partition", so presumably it works clean.

Edit 5: You can start up Windows8-Setup again to tell it to create a bootable USB even after you've downloaded the .iso. You can also use this program to make the bootable USB from the .iso, which may be handy later: http://images2.store.microsoft.com/prod/clustera/framework/w7udt/1.0/en-us/Windows7-USB-DVD-tool.exe

Thanks for the advice. I'll get that Windows DVD burned tonight. No way I'll mess with the USB option. I've heard of some horror stories going that route.


EDIT: FUCK...sounds like I'm in for an adventure when my parts show up :-/

EDIT2: "Another Partition" sounds promising. I wonder if Win8 needs to detect that you had a previous version of Windows on another drive?

EDIT3: Thanks for looking into this man. I'll let you know how it goes!
 
NVIDIA GeForce GTX 760 To Be Released On June 25th

According to our previous reports the GTX 670 would be replaced by GTX 760 Ti, whereas the GTX 760 would be a rebadged GTX 660 OEM (the one with 1152 CUDAs). Thus, we have conflicting information and we are still unsure whether the GTX 760 is indeed the GTX 670 under a new name, or it&#8217;s rather the Ti variant. What is known for sure is that NVIDIA is planning only one card for June, which is the non-Ti model.

Please tell me this isn't true Andy, I've been waiting for the 760 thinking it was the slightly faster replacement for the 670 not the 660 OEM. If this rumour is true, why would it have a 256bit bus, wouldn't it be 192 bit like the 660?
96cMEcc.jpg
 

snack

Member
Friend wants a computer for $500-600 not including peripherals, monitor etc., that can run games like counter strike global offensive, dota 2. If I follow the "Budget - Solid Starter" build from OP, would it be more than enough for my friend's needs?
 
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