• Hey, guest user. Hope you're enjoying NeoGAF! Have you considered registering for an account? Come join us and add your take to the daily discourse.

"I need a New PC!" 2013 Part 1. Haswell, Crysis 3, and secret fairy sauce. Read da OP

Status
Not open for further replies.
Hey GAF,

My laptop died and I need something to replace it, so I'm thinking of using this as an opportunity to finally build a custom gaming desktop. I was thinking about going with the $1000 build in the OP (with a 3570K and GTX 660ti). Just curious what kind of performance I could expect with that. I've always been a console-only gamer, and with the next gen systems on their way, I would hate to spend all this money on a gaming PC only to have it be obsolete within a year or two (not saying it would be...I really have no clue).

But regardless, I need a new PC because I do a lot of non-gaming related stuff as well (Photoshop, video editing etc). My question is, then, should I build a budget PC (which would be fine for non-gaming uses) and buy a PS4 for my gaming needs, or try to combine the two into one and spend a lot more for the PC?

Thanks for any advice. I really can't decide what to do here, and I need to figure out something soon.
 
Looking for some PC audio advice. I have a home theatre set up with a decent amp that I'd like to connect a pair of headphones to for gaming (with positional audio). Thing is I'd like to use an analog monitor and can't go the usual HDMI route that I do with my HDTV.

Is it possible to use the onboard sound chip to output an SPDIF signal to my amp and still get positional audio through my stereo headphones? Or do I have to get a soundcard to do this? Thing is I have an MATX board (Maximus V Gene) and I don't have any PCI slots left, and I want to go through my amp for the best possible sound.

Thanks!
 

Zzoram

Member
Are there any SFF cases with a handle built in for easy carrying?

Why are the Steelseries Siberia V2 not in the headset options? They occupy a price range not covered by the options in the OP, the $60-80 range.
 

Anton668

Member
ok... I REALLY need to step away from the computer like right now!!!!
$500 at Amazon
$300 at New Egg
$400 at Micro Center

gotta love tax time.!

now i gotta go see how much a laptop is for the GF to play facebook games on will be....


Why are the Steelseries Siberia V2 not in the headset options? They occupy a price range not covered by the options in the OP, the $60-80 range.

under $100 = budget? not sure.
Ive been getting by with cheapy Logitecs. But I'd like to know when/how much the PC 363D's are gonna be.


ETA: i forgot to order a mouse. so much for stepping away from the keyboard.....
 

Momentary

Banned
Well... seeing some early benchmarks of Haswell vs. Ivy Bridge... Is there really any reason for me to wait until June to build a super high-end rig. So that leaves me with 3970X vs 3770K. I don't know the first thing about bottlenecks other than processors can affect the performance of certain games.
 

Ty4on

Member
Well... seeing some early benchmarks of Haswell vs. Ivy Bridge... Is there really any reason for me to wait until June to build a super high-end rig. So that leaves me with 3970X vs 3770K. I don't know the first thing about bottlenecks other than processors can affect the performance of certain games.

3960X/3970X is just made by intel to get those that need to pay 1000$ for a CPU. After an overclock the only difference between it and the 500$ 3930k is 15MB cache vs 12MB cache and I do not know of a single task where that makes a difference.

On the cheaper 1155 socket 3570k and 3770k are king. Both are quad cores, but the 3770k can handle eight threads which in threaded tasks (encoding, rendering...) gives a nice bump in performance of around 30% depending on the task. Games have used to be very bad at putting load on multiple threads, but Crysis 3 beta is using around 90% of all four cores on my 3570k. When games in the future get better at using threaded the 3770k will probably gain an advantage over the 3570k, but right now that difference is pretty slim.

On the more expensive 2011 socket you have the 3820 which isn't 100% unlocked, but if you can overclock with base clock it will hit 5Ghz with decent cooling making it excellent value for money as it's cheaper than the 3770k and still has four cores with eight threads. The 3930k is a six core with twelve threads which is kinda useless unless you do heavy multimedia work considering the price.
Socket 2011 also gives you faster quad channel memory (though memory speed isn't a problem for dual channel) and works better for SLI/Crossfire with three(?)/four cards.
 

FireRises

Member
http://www.daskeyboard.com/

Look at that. It's beautiful!

It just feels so much more satisfying than typing on mush.

Yup! I have the Das Professional Silent, I love it.

keyboard-large-1000.jpg
 

FireRises

Member
Well... seeing some early benchmarks of Haswell vs. Ivy Bridge... Is there really any reason for me to wait until June to build a super high-end rig. So that leaves me with 3970X vs 3770K. I don't know the first thing about bottlenecks other than processors can affect the performance of certain games.

link?

I'm waiting for Haswell too... but building one now is tempting. I'm still on my Q9550.
 

Koroviev

Member
Hey GAF,

My laptop died and I need something to replace it, so I'm thinking of using this as an opportunity to finally build a custom gaming desktop. I was thinking about going with the $1000 build in the OP (with a 3570K and GTX 660ti). Just curious what kind of performance I could expect with that. I've always been a console-only gamer, and with the next gen systems on their way, I would hate to spend all this money on a gaming PC only to have it be obsolete within a year or two (not saying it would be...I really have no clue).

But regardless, I need a new PC because I do a lot of non-gaming related stuff as well (Photoshop, video editing etc). My question is, then, should I build a budget PC (which would be fine for non-gaming uses) and buy a PS4 for my gaming needs, or try to combine the two into one and spend a lot more for the PC?

Thanks for any advice. I really can't decide what to do here, and I need to figure out something soon.


Gaming PC for both. If you throw in a decent processor, SSD, etc. for work, then you're only a GPU shy of a killer gaming PC.
 

garath

Member
Is there a nice cheap mechanical keyboard I can get? This cheap $3 Dell one I got like 4 years ago seems to being dying out and I would love to give one of these a shot on the cheap.

I just bought a CM quickfire pro and I'm really liking it.

It's $75 from amazon right now. You just missed a $20 rebate :(
 

Momentary

Banned
link?

I'm waiting for Haswell too... but building one now is tempting. I'm still on my Q9550.

Here you go: http://wccftech.com/intel-haswell-engineering-sample-benchmarks-leaked/

3960X/3970X is just made by intel to get those that need to pay 1000$ for a CPU. After an overclock the only difference between it and the 500$ 3930k is 15MB cache vs 12MB cache and I do not know of a single task where that makes a difference.

On the cheaper 1155 socket 3570k and 3770k are king. Both are quad cores, but the 3770k can handle eight threads which in threaded tasks (encoding, rendering...) gives a nice bump in performance of around 30% depending on the task. Games have used to be very bad at putting load on multiple threads, but Crysis 3 beta is using around 90% of all four cores on my 3570k. When games in the future get better at using threaded the 3770k will probably gain an advantage over the 3570k, but right now that difference is pretty slim.

On the more expensive 2011 socket you have the 3820 which isn't 100% unlocked, but if you can overclock with base clock it will hit 5Ghz with decent cooling making it excellent value for money as it's cheaper than the 3770k and still has four cores with eight threads. The 3930k is a six core with twelve threads which is kinda useless unless you do heavy multimedia work considering the price.
Socket 2011 also gives you faster quad channel memory (though memory speed isn't a problem for dual channel) and works better for SLI/Crossfire with three(?)/four cards.

Well I might look into the 3930K since I'll be wanting to do video editing after I capture gameplay footage.... But I think for the minor amount of work that 'll do that 3770K might be enough. Haswell is just not looking appealing enough right now and I want a machine ready to go by the time Titan hits. I'll upgrade to a new processor, board, and DDR4 RAM late next year.
 
I've been trying to pipe my PC through to my TV via HDMI (ATI 7950) but by default the image is smaller than the display. The internet suggests to then upscale the image using the scale display panel in the Catalyst drivers, I can get it to fill the screen but you can tell that some lines that should be taking up one pixel are blurred across two.

I've also tried connecting the TV via the same mini-displayport to VGA adaptor that I use with my Macbook, but it comes out at 640x480 with no discernible way of changing that (eg resolution options being greyed out). When I connect it in this way Catalyst lists it as "fake" rather than "Samsung".

So does anyone know how I either a) get a pixel grid match over HDMI or b) get it working through display port?
 
When should you think about running an aftermarket CPU Cooler? Can anyone recommend one that'll fit in the CM Elite 120 w/ the p8h77 motherboard?

For reference, here's the parts I'm ordering/have ordered.

CPU: i3 3220
RAM: 8GB Samsung 30nm
Mobo: Asus P8H77-I
PSU: Antec VP450
GPU: Gigabyte GTX660
Case: Cooler Master Elite 120
Storage: 128GB SSD & 1TB HDD
Other: 120mm Case fan?
 

Iorv3th

Member
When should you think about running an aftermarket CPU Cooler? Can anyone recommend one that'll fit in the CM Elite 120 w/ the p8h77 motherboard?

For reference, here's the parts I'm ordering/have ordered.

CPU: i3 3220
RAM: 8GB Samsung 30nm
Mobo: Asus P8H77-I
PSU: Antec VP450
GPU: Gigabyte GTX660
Case: Cooler Master Elite 120
Storage: 128GB SSD & 1TB HDD
Other: 120mm Case fan?

If your running an i3 just use the stock cooler. You don't really need an aftermarket cooler unless you are going to overclock. I know a lot of people like to get them but the stock cooler on the sandy bridge and up seem to be pretty good unless you are overclocking.
 

bro1

Banned
My office is over top my living room. Short of running HDMI and a USB wire through the walls, what is the easiest way to stream my gaming computer in my office to my living room?
 

Saty

Member
a quick google-fu suggests yes.

it also suggests you wont like it.

Why wouldn't i? I never used a mechanical keyboard and i think i'll like the tactile\clicky keys. From what i gather wired keyboards (and mouses) are only a must if you are serious about competitive gaming.
 

Ty4on

Member
Thanks - I'll grab the HIS 2GB then.

Any reason to not order from Amazon? usually I do newegg but I'd rather get it sooner with Prime.

Same price: http://www.amazon.com/dp/B007MJGN5I/?tag=neogaf0e-20

That's the reference/base heatsink which will be pretty loud under load. Go for a third party heatsink which will be much more quiet. Most use a dual fan, but HIS' single fan third party cooler (two heat pipes on the top) still runs much more quiet thanks to the superior heatsink.
HIS_HD7850_IceQ_X_Turbo_X_2GB_Cooler.jpg
P1014156.jpg

Heatsink for the card you linked to on the right.
 

FireRises

Member

thanks, interesting. That does look underwhelming but they do point this out:

While these results are not as great as anticipated, it should be noted again that this was just a ES sample test. The final Intel Haswell retail chips would not only boost upto 10-15% better IPC performance but also deliver faster iGPU performance by pushing the improvement by 40%. The Haswell CPU lineup along with the Core i7-3770K’s successor ”Core i7-4770K” which are already under mass production would launch on 2nd June officially along with the 8-Series chipset based motherboards
 

mkenyon

Banned
Are there any SFF cases with a handle built in for easy carrying?

Why are the Steelseries Siberia V2 not in the headset options? They occupy a price range not covered by the options in the OP, the $60-80 range.
OP, SFF guide. BitFenix Prodigy is the go to case for this. You can also install a handle really easily on just about any aluminum ITX case.
Anyone here know anything about streaming console/pc games? My wife has been wanting a computer she can stream on and use to play pc games (she doesn't play much though on PC, apart from maybe some MMO's).

You guys recommend a PVR (http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16815116030)

or

a capture card like this (http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16815100100)
The second one, no question. Avermedia HD can do 60FPS streaming.
Yes 1 GB is going to limit you in terms of AA, games with large textures and games in the near future. Go 2GB
The card limits performance before the VRAM does.
Well... seeing some early benchmarks of Haswell vs. Ivy Bridge... Is there really any reason for me to wait until June to build a super high-end rig. So that leaves me with 3970X vs 3770K. I don't know the first thing about bottlenecks other than processors can affect the performance of certain games.
No difference in games really. The differences certainly do not justify the ~400% increase in price, and that money could be better spent in a number of areas to get much better results.
Is there a nice cheap mechanical keyboard I can get? This cheap $3 Dell one I got like 4 years ago seems to being dying out and I would love to give one of these a shot on the cheap.
Rosewills go on sale on Newegg fairly often for about $50.
Why wouldn't i? I never used a mechanical keyboard and i think i'll like the tactile\clicky keys. From what i gather wired keyboards (and mouses) are only a must if you are serious about competitive gaming.
A major portion of why mechanical keyboards are amazing is full NKRO, meaning any number of keys can be depressed with all of them registering. You have no idea how many times you thought you made a typo when it was actually your keyboard. When I go and use someone's membrane board, the errors start popping up, and I *know* that error wasn't my fault now.

You can't get that (generally, there are exceptions) over USB. Wireless just increases the level of inaccuracy by transmitting polled data over wireless. Need the delicious PS/2 interrupt signal to feel the glory.
 
My first build is complete!

PCPartPicker part list / Price breakdown by merchant / Benchmarks

CPU: Intel Core i5-3570K 3.4GHz Quad-Core Processor ($189.99 @ Microcenter)
CPU Cooler: Cooler Master Hyper 212 EVO 82.9 CFM Sleeve Bearing CPU Cooler ($32.86 @ Amazon)
Motherboard: Gigabyte GA-Z77X-UD3H ATX LGA1155 Motherboard ($148.98 @ SuperBiiz)
Memory: Samsung 8GB (2 x 4GB) DDR3-1600 Memory ($49.99 @ Newegg)
Storage: Crucial M4 128GB 2.5" Solid State Disk ($119.95 @ Mac Connection)
Storage: Western Digital Caviar Blue 1TB 3.5" 7200RPM Internal Hard Drive ($69.98 @ Outlet PC)
Video Card: Gigabyte Radeon HD 7970 GHz Edition 3GB Video Card ($429.99 @ Newegg)
Sound Card: Asus Xonar DGX 24-bit 96 KHz Sound Card ($39.98 @ Outlet PC)
Case: Cooler Master HAF XB (Black) ATX Desktop Case ($94.99 @ Microcenter)
Power Supply: Corsair Professional 750W 80 PLUS Silver Certified ATX12V / EPS12V Power Supply ($119.99 @ Newegg)
Optical Drive: Lite-On iHAS124-04 DVD/CD Writer ($16.98 @ Outlet PC)
Operating System: Microsoft Windows 8 Full (64-bit) ($99.99 @ Newegg)
Total: $1413.67
(Prices include shipping, taxes, and discounts when available.)
(Generated by PCPartPicker 2013-02-04 12:26 EST-0500)

Pics of the build from boxes to finish: http://imgur.com/a/769pZ#0

And of course, the reason I built it: to play games that can look like this: http://imgur.com/a/53x9e (I'm looking at you, Witcher 2 ubersampling and Skyrim with 30+ mods) Click to see the album with 3 screenshots.

For my first build, I think it went really well. The worst part was affixing the CPU cooler. Otherwise, everything went very well. The only issue I have now is trying to get the digital audio port to work (not sure why it won't work). I've tried reinstalling drivers, but no luck.
 

mkenyon

Banned
1) You enable the front port as HD Audio in BIOS?

2) Your CPU cooler is blowing towards your intake. You'll want to swap the side the fan is on to push air over the heatsink towards the back of the case.

3) Looks awesome. That XB is a really neat case.
 
OP, SFF guide. BitFenix Prodigy is the go to case for this. You can also install a handle really easily on just about any aluminum ITX case.

The second one, no question. Avermedia HD can do 60FPS streaming.

The card limits performance before the VRAM does.

No difference in games really. The differences certainly do not justify the ~400% increase in price, and that money could be better spent in a number of areas to get much better results.

Rosewills go on sale on Newegg fairly often for about $50.

A major portion of why mechanical keyboards are amazing is full NKRO, meaning any number of keys can be depressed with all of them registering. You have no idea how many times you thought you made a typo when it was actually your keyboard. When I go and use someone's membrane board, the errors start popping up, and I *know* that error wasn't my fault now.

You can't get that (generally, there are exceptions) over USB. Wireless just increases the level of inaccuracy by transmitting polled data over wireless. Need the delicious PS/2 interrupt signal to feel the glory.

mkenyon, you posted a picture of a watercooled prodigy a few pages back. Was it difficult to fit everything inside the case without any modifications?

Is it something you would recommend or do you think it's better to go with a bigger case with more space in it?

I like the idea of a small, but powerfull rig.
 

Saty

Member
A major portion of why mechanical keyboards are amazing is full NKRO, meaning any number of keys can be depressed with all of them registering. You have no idea how many times you thought you made a typo when it was actually your keyboard. When I go and use someone's membrane board, the errors start popping up, and I *know* that error wasn't my fault now.

You can't get that (generally, there are exceptions) over USB. Wireless just increases the level of inaccuracy by transmitting polled data over wireless. Need the delicious PS/2 interrupt signal to feel the glory.

Oh, yeah, i know all about that. The days of playing Fifa on the keyboard and not being able to pass a ball in certain direction in certain way because it doesn't register 3-4 buttons pressed at the same time.

Well, if i'm ever going to get a mechanical keyboard it would be wired then. But for now it's 'only if i have spare money to blow' category.
 
Just wanted to get an opinion on this build if anyone's willing to help out.

PCPartPicker part list: http://pcpartpicker.com/p/BrLh
Price breakdown by merchant: http://pcpartpicker.com/p/BrLh/by_merchant/
Benchmarks: http://pcpartpicker.com/p/BrLh/benchmarks/

CPU: Intel Core i3-3220 3.3GHz Dual-Core Processor ($123.79 @ Amazon)
Motherboard: ASRock B75 PRO3 ATX LGA1155 Motherboard ($82.55 @ Newegg)
Memory: G.Skill Ripjaws Series 8GB (2 x 4GB) DDR3-1600 Memory ($47.99 @ Newegg)
Storage: Western Digital Caviar Blue 1TB 3.5" 7200RPM Internal Hard Drive ($69.98 @ Outlet PC)
Video Card: Gigabyte Radeon HD 7850 1GB Video Card ($179.99 @ Amazon)
Case: Corsair 200R ATX Mid Tower Case ($34.99 @ Newegg)
Power Supply: Antec 450W ATX12V Power Supply ($38.99 @ Amazon)
Total: $578.28
(Prices include shipping, taxes, and discounts when available.)
(Generated by PCPartPicker 2013-02-04 12:33 EST-0500)

I'm just looking to build a rig that can handle many, if not, all of the new games at the moment and something that I can easily upgrade down the line if I need to. My budget is around 500 to 600 bucks US. Any help is appreciated.
 
1) You enable the front port as HD Audio in BIOS?

2) Your CPU cooler is blowing towards your intake. You'll want to swap the side the fan is on to push air over the heatsink towards the back of the case.

3) Looks awesome. That XB is a really neat case.

1-I will investigate it in BIOS. It's the digital audio out port from the sound card.

2-The CPU cooler was originally on the other side, but I thought it was competing with the fan in the front of the case. I thought it was blowing air away from the CPU. But it sounds like the CPU fan pulls air in to cool it, right? Maybe that's a dumb question, but it's my first time tinkering with these fans.

3-The case is fantastic.
 

Zemm

Member
I'm looking to upgrade, probably my graphics card. My current system is as follows:

Intel i5 760 @ 4.2ghz
Intel P55-USB3 motherboard
4GB DDR3 ram
ATI 6870

I think my cpu is fine, not sure on ram really and believe my card could do with an upgrade for the new PC games incoming. I play at 1080p max btw. Any idea what card would be best for around £200 ($314)?
 

mkenyon

Banned
mkenyon, you posted a picture of a watercooled prodigy a few pages back. Was it difficult to fit everything inside the case without any modifications?

Is it something you would recommend or do you think it's better to go with a bigger case with more space in it?

I like the idea of a small, but powerfull rig.
No, it's designed by BitFenix to fit water cooling gear. Depending on how much you stuff in there, it can take a fair bit of planning on spacing and knowing how to use fittings to properly plumb it.

I think it's great, and only more difficult in the plumbing aspect. You also need to be a bit more judicious in terms of choosing parts and radiators to plan out TDP with correct heat dissipation.

The next largest case that supports that level of water cooling gear is the Arc Mini, which is much larger.
1-I will investigate it in BIOS. It's the digital audio out port from the sound card.

2-The CPU cooler was originally on the other side, but I thought it was competing with the fan in the front of the case. I thought it was blowing air away from the CPU. But it sounds like the CPU fan pulls air in to cool it, right? Maybe that's a dumb question, but it's my first time tinkering with these fans.

3-The case is fantastic.
If it is on the card, it's possible that you need to disable on board sound.

Yeah, an easy way to look at fans is that the open side is where it pulls air from. The side with the struts is where the air exits the fan. You want the front to be blowing air at the heatsink fan, which then blows it towards the rear.
 
If it is on the card, it's possible that you need to disable on board sound.

Yeah, an easy way to look at fans is that the open side is where it pulls air from. The side with the struts is where the air exits the fan. You want the front to be blowing air at the heatsink fan, which then blows it towards the rear.

I just looked in the BIOS and there was only one option for enabling the sound, which it already was enabled. I'm actually using the audio card for my speakers now with no issue. It's just when I try to change it to the S/PDIF port, I get no audio.

How would I disable the on board sound?

Thanks.
 

mkenyon

Banned
It'll be somewhere in BIOS in devices or controllers. Your manual should list it.

*edit*

To be clear, I mean go ahead and disable everything about your on board sound in BIOS. There should not be a listing for your sound card, so you will just disable everything related to sound in BIOS.
 

kennah

Member
Just wanted to get an opinion on this build if anyone's willing to help out.

PCPartPicker part list: http://pcpartpicker.com/p/BrLh
Price breakdown by merchant: http://pcpartpicker.com/p/BrLh/by_merchant/
Benchmarks: http://pcpartpicker.com/p/BrLh/benchmarks/

CPU: Intel Core i3-3220 3.3GHz Dual-Core Processor ($123.79 @ Amazon)
Motherboard: ASRock B75 PRO3 ATX LGA1155 Motherboard ($82.55 @ Newegg)
Memory: G.Skill Ripjaws Series 8GB (2 x 4GB) DDR3-1600 Memory ($47.99 @ Newegg)
Storage: Western Digital Caviar Blue 1TB 3.5" 7200RPM Internal Hard Drive ($69.98 @ Outlet PC)
Video Card: Gigabyte Radeon HD 7850 1GB Video Card ($179.99 @ Amazon)
Case: Corsair 200R ATX Mid Tower Case ($34.99 @ Newegg)
Power Supply: Antec 450W ATX12V Power Supply ($38.99 @ Amazon)
Total: $578.28
(Prices include shipping, taxes, and discounts when available.)
(Generated by PCPartPicker 2013-02-04 12:33 EST-0500)

I'm just looking to build a rig that can handle many, if not, all of the new games at the moment and something that I can easily upgrade down the line if I need to. My budget is around 500 to 600 bucks US. Any help is appreciated.

Looks good, if you can afford a liiiittttle bit more for a better motherboard you'll have an easier time upgrading later. But otherwise that should be a more than acceptable build. (And save up for an SSD (or get one now if you have hard drives from your old computer you could move over))
 

Koroviev

Member
Looks good, if you can afford a liiiittttle bit more for a better motherboard you'll have an easier time upgrading later. But otherwise that should be a more than acceptable build. (And save up for an SSD (or get one now if you have hard drives from your old computer you could move over))

He should swap the HDD for a 128 GB Samsung drive if he can manage the space.
 
He should swap the HDD for a 128 GB Samsung drive if he can manage the space.

Hmm...I think I can work with 128GB. I don't really plan on doing much except game on it. Hmm...

Edit: Might run a little bit over my budget...so I'll have to save up for it.

Looks good, if you can afford a liiiittttle bit more for a better motherboard you'll have an easier time upgrading later. But otherwise that should be a more than acceptable build. (And save up for an SSD (or get one now if you have hard drives from your old computer you could move over))

Any motherboard in particular I should look out for? And I don't have a hard drive I can bring over, really.
 

J0dy77

Member
Great thread again Hazard. I hate coming in here because it makes me want to start swapping parts and building another machine.
 

kennah

Member
Hmm...I think I can work with 128GB. I don't really plan on doing much except game on it. Hmm...

Edit: Might run a little bit over my budget...so I'll have to save up for it.



Any motherboard in particular I should look out for? And I don't have a hard drive I can bring over, really.

Basically anything with Z77 gives you the best options later as you'd be able to find a used 2500k or 3570k and overclock it. You can't overclock with the board you have now.

http://pcpartpicker.com/part/asrock-motherboard-z77pro3

That one is $7 more.
 
Status
Not open for further replies.
Top Bottom