"I need a New PC!" 2013 Part 2. Haswell = #IntelnoTIM, but free online. READ THE OP.

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Sorry, another question:

It's been a while for me and I am wondering if it's worth going to Asus' site and dowloading all the drivers for my mobo. I remember way back when, your computer was pretty bunk without installing the chipset drivers, etc. However, it seems Win 8 has done a pretty good job and nothing seems broken. But, are these just generic drivers that Windows installs?
 
Words cannot express the difference between 60Hz and 120Hz strobing. I move the mouse cursor from my 60Hz IPS panel over to the 144Hz panel and it's like night and day the difference in how smooth they track.
 
What's the best wireless adapter to use if you game online?
I know it won't be fast as the Ethernet cable, but in case you have no choice and need an wireless adapter, which one would you recommend?
 
kakashi08 said:
What's the best wireless adapter to use if you game online?
I know it won't be fast as the Ethernet cable, but in case you have no choice and need an wireless adapter, which one would you recommend?
Click to expand...

You could try a power line adapter, it'll run you a bit more than a typical wireless adapter but its better.
 
Instro said:
You could try a power line adapter, it'll run you a bit more than a typical wireless adapter but its better.
Click to expand...

Whoa, I didn't even know something like that existed. LOL
Do those work fast as an Ethernet Cable from a modem?
On amazon they have different Mbps ones, 100 and 200mpbs. There only $44 without the wifi. That's not bad.
 
Ordered this beast a few minutes ago to replace my dying TX650:

1.jpg


Pretty much a Corsair AX860/Seasonic X-850 KM3 internally, but about €40 cheaper. Total overkill for my system, but hopefully it will save me from having to buy another PSU in the next 3 to 5 years.
 
Oh my word, RAM prices take the piss now! It's only been a couple weeks since I checked on the Samsung Green out of curiosity and it's gone up again! Is there going to be something that stops this, or is the case going to be that because of DRAM supplies running low I'm going to have to pay somewhere between double and triple what I would have paid last Xmas for the foreseeable future?
 
Shawn6661 said:
I have the same setup (athlon x2 4200+, 2gb ram, amd 4850 512mb) and the last game i could run was Mass Effect 3. You should be able to play Oblivion, maybe Fallout but i dont think the 4200+ will handle Skyrim. Basically, if you want to upgrade, try a new CPU/Motherboard/RAM combo. If you need it to be cheap, go with something like a i3 3220/4gb DDR3/B75 motherboard (~250$).
Click to expand...

Thanks for the help. I'll probably just leave it.
 
Mad Max said:
Ordered this beast a few minutes ago to replace my dying

Pretty much a Corsair AX860/Seasonic X-850 KM3 internally, but about €40 cheaper. Total overkill for my system, but hopefully it will save me from having to buy another PSU in the next 3 to 5 years.
Click to expand...

How old was the TX650. Was it a V1 or V2
 
maneil99 said:
Broken fan controller? What do you mean
How do you know its dyong
Click to expand...

The fan wouldn't turn on properly after a while but switch on->off rapidly which made an aweful lot of noise.

I know it's dying because half the time I push the on button on my PC nothing happens, and I have to use the button on the back to turn it off, wait until the mobo LED turns off, and then try again. This even happens when I start the PSU with just a paperclip so I know it's not mobo related either. Under load the PSU is also very hot to the touch and makes a lot of noise, which comes from a combination of: fan noise, hard clicking sounds and coil whine. This is despite the thing getting plenty of cold air through the bottom of my case.
 
Mad Max said:
The fan wouldn't turn on properly after a while but switch on->off rapidly which made an aweful lot of noise.

I know it's dying because half the time I push the on button on my PC nothing happens, and I have to use the button on the back to turn it off, wait until the mobo LED turns off, and then try again. This even happens when I start the PSU with just a paperclip so I know it's not mobo related either. Under load the PSU is also very hot to the touch and makes a lot of noise, which comes from a combination of: fan noise, hard clicking sounds and coil whine. This is despite the thing getting plenty of cold air through the bottom of my case.
Click to expand...
Arent the tx series made by seasonic though
 
maneil99 said:
Arent the tx series made by seasonic though
Click to expand...

Yeah, or atleast the V2 is made by seasonic. It's based on a completely different platform than their newest X-series though, which is widely regarded as being pretty damn good :P. But if it wasn't as praised as it is I would have thought twice considering my recent experience.
 
Mad Max said:
Ordered this beast a few minutes ago to replace my dying TX650:

1.jpg


Pretty much a Corsair AX860/Seasonic X-850 KM3 internally, but about €40 cheaper. Total overkill for my system, but hopefully it will save me from having to buy another PSU in the next 3 to 5 years.
Click to expand...

That could well last you 10 years.
 
mkenyon said:
You have about ~500W of heat trying to be dissipated by a radiator that can only dissipate about 200-300W of heat. You need another 240-360mm radiator. Simple as that. If you don't want to mod your case, get a new case. 800D requires cutting to be an adequate watercooling case.
Click to expand...

I understand but is 40c water temps something to worry about?
i mean i had cards run 80-90c so i don't get scared with 50 to me it's still decent.

I think i found a solution how to add 240mm worth of rads by using 2x 120mm or 2x 140mm rads by replacing the 2 140mm standard fans.
 
Addnan said:
Doesn't the X850 suffer from coil whine?
Click to expand...

I've heard some do, but it seems that risk exists for any switched-mode PSU and only increases with the unit's rated capacity. As long as it's not appearent when idle I'm fine, my HD7950 squeals like a pig in most games anyway :P. But if it's really bad I can return it and get my money back, since I live in euroland.

@Polymath

40°C water temps is still okay, you should probably start worrying for your pump when it goes above 50°C though. The way heat transfer works is that, if you have (say) 500W of heat to dissipate, you can either transfer that heat by increasing the temp difference at which it is transfered (in this case between the water and ambient) or increase the thermal contact area (rad space). This is assuming everything else remains equal ofcource. So a 360 is okay as long as you're fine with increased temperatures.

Also I wouldn't add those 120/140 rads, it's just not really worth it imo if you can't add atleast a 240mm rad.
 
WonkyPanda said:
Ok guys, time to start building. Wish me luck!

Also, I bought two additional 120mm fans to put into my 200r carbide.

Where do you guys recommend I put them? One exhaust on the top and one exhaust on the side over the GPU? Or have intake on top and exhaust on bottom. What creates the best airflow?
Click to expand...

You could stick another in the front and have one on the top. Front ones are a fucking arse to mount, I nearly had an aneurysm doing it on mine. I've now two at the front blowing in, two at the top sucking out and one exhausting at the rear.
 
SixFourMike said:
Oh my word, RAM prices take the piss now! It's only been a couple weeks since I checked on the Samsung Green out of curiosity and it's gone up again! Is there going to be something that stops this, or is the case going to be that because of DRAM supplies running low I'm going to have to pay somewhere between double and triple what I would have paid last Xmas for the foreseeable future?
Click to expand...

You are correct in your assumption there. Prices are apparently expected to still creep up slightly before the end of the year.

Smasung Green is also EoL, and the stock which is currently out there is all that's left. So I'd advise grabbing it now if it must be that memory.
 
Hi, I currently have a Dell UltraSharp U2410 monitor, planning to upgrade to a triple monitor setup, what are he best options to pair up this monitor with? Looks like they are not making more 2410s and there is a new 2413 but is almost $500 :(

Here is my pc:
 
I'm pretty out of date with this stuff, I've tried sifting through some review sites the past few days but I am having difficulty sorting it all out TBH.

Q1: Essentially, I was looking to upgrade I/O a bit by investing some in the Z77 SSD Caching method on my existing PC. I have a 3TB main drive with everything on it right now. My idea was to buy a 120GB or so SSD as use it as my cache drive. I know that it tops out at 64GB or so for the cache, so I assume the other space will just be wasted, but I really did not have the time nor the inclination to re-format and re-install the OS and other things now.

However, has anyone tried this SSD caching method before? Are the results comparable to running everything from an SSD? I must admit, I really like the idea of not having to manage the stuff that is on or off of the SSD, the caching algorithm will take care of all of that. I can't possibly justify the cost of a 512GB+ SSD, so it seems no matter what if I use it as my primary drive I will be installing/uninstalling things on it to manage what is fast and what is not. Having the OS do this for me automatically instead, even if it is a slight performance penalty is... appealing. Heck if that is the case maybe I can even save a bit of money and buy a smaller drive and forget the eventual reformatting altogether.

Q2: In that vein, what are some good SSD's to do this with? From what I have read the Samsung 840 is a good price/performance deal right now. I am concerned though that Samsung rates it for "only" 1000 program/erase cycles. Is this an issue to be worried about? The Adata SX900 seems to be on sale in my area right now and the paper specs look good, but is it a decent drive? I have trouble finding good reviews on it, is it something to avoid?

Q3: For SSD caching, is it worth it paying the extra for a "performance" drive vs non? For example the price difference between the Samsung 840 and 840Pro is about $30. I'm understanding that the 120GB drives are more run-of-the-mill while the 128GB are "enthusiast" models. Is that important for SSD caching?

Q4: Last one; I was going to replace my old Razer Abyssus at the same time. I wanted something with more buttons. I was eyeing the Roccat Kone XTD, but oof that price... but then I see a Corsair M90, I guess an older model, being dumped for $29 (regular $79). The M95 is one of the reccomended mice in the OP, I am assuming it is the reason that M90 is being slashed, but is the M90 worth getting?
 
Currently a PC only gamer, have a PS4 on Pre Order but the closer we get to the date the more I think I should just upgrade my system.

Currently;

Gigabyte GA-P67A-UD4-B3 Motherboard
G.Skill Ripjaws 8GB DDR3
Gigabyte Radeon HD6950 1GB Overclocked x 2 in CF
Corsair HX-750 Power Supply
Western Digital Green 1TB x 2 in Raid.
Intel Core i7 2600 CPU at 3.7Ghz

What would some recommendations be in terms of upgrades to handle the "next generation" of games.
 
Macro. said:
Currently a PC only gamer, have a PS4 on Pre Order but the closer we get to the date the more I think I should just upgrade my system.

Currently;

Gigabyte GA-P67A-UD4-B3 Motherboard
G.Skill Ripjaws 8GB DDR3
Gigabyte Radeon HD6950 1GB Overclocked x 2 in CF
Corsair HX-750 Power Supply
Western Digital Green 1TB x 2 in Raid.
Intel Core i7 2600 CPU at 3.7Ghz

What would some recommendations be in terms of upgrades to handle the "next generation" of games.
Click to expand...
An SSD and new video card. That's all you need. Overclock your cpu more if you can. If you can't then sell it for a K version and get up to 4.2-4.4 ghz and be good to go for a while.

Also you might see an improvement on your existing setup when the fixed Crossfire drivers are released.
 
kennah said:
An SSD and new video card. That's all you need. Overclock your cpu more if you can. If you can't then sell it for a K version and get up to 4.2-4.4 ghz and be good to go for a while.

Also you might see an improvement on your existing setup when the fixed Crossfire drivers are released.
Click to expand...

Yeah a SSD and new GPU are along the lines of what I was thinking. Been looking at the 7970 3GB and GTX 770 2/4GB, they seem relatively close in terms of performance.

Do you think having an AMD card with the next generation of consoles also using AMD could be an advantage as far as drivers / general performance?
 
Macro. said:
Yeah a SSD and new GPU are along the lines of what I was thinking. Been looking at the 7970 3GB and GTX 770 2/4GB, they seem relatively close in terms of performance.

Do you think having an AMD card with the next generation of consoles also using AMD could be an advantage as far as drivers / general performance?
Click to expand...
None whatsoever.

Good card choices there too. And your 6950s should still fetch a good price second hand as well.
 
Morphine1680 said:
Hi, I currently have a Dell UltraSharp U2410 monitor, planning to upgrade to a triple monitor setup, what are he best options to pair up this monitor with? Looks like they are not making more 2410s and there is a new 2413 but is almost $500 :(
Click to expand...

Usually you want something with a similar bezel but the biggest problem is that the U2410 is also a $500 monitor as well. I use two VS247H-P monitors and a VG248QE in my setup. You could probably sell your monitor on eBay or Craigslist and buy three VS247H-P monitors with the proceeds. They're $137.73 after $20 rebate right now which is an absolutely ridiculous price for such an astounding quality monitor.
 
Can anyone recommend a good gaming keyboard? The one I currently have is wireless and absolutely sucks. I've looked at the ones in the OP but would like to see if there are any others available. My budget is about £50 ($76), maybe a bit more. Any help would be really appreciated as I've been looking for quite a while but to no avail.
 
Oracle Dragon said:
I'm pretty out of date with this stuff, I've tried sifting through some review sites the past few days but I am having difficulty sorting it all out TBH.

Q1: Essentially, I was looking to upgrade I/O a bit by investing some in the Z77 SSD Caching method on my existing PC. I have a 3TB main drive with everything on it right now. My idea was to buy a 120GB or so SSD as use it as my cache drive. I know that it tops out at 64GB or so for the cache, so I assume the other space will just be wasted, but I really did not have the time nor the inclination to re-format and re-install the OS and other things now.

However, has anyone tried this SSD caching method before? Are the results comparable to running everything from an SSD? I must admit, I really like the idea of not having to manage the stuff that is on or off of the SSD, the caching algorithm will take care of all of that. I can't possibly justify the cost of a 512GB+ SSD, so it seems no matter what if I use it as my primary drive I will be installing/uninstalling things on it to manage what is fast and what is not. Having the OS do this for me automatically instead, even if it is a slight performance penalty is... appealing. Heck if that is the case maybe I can even save a bit of money and buy a smaller drive and forget the eventual reformatting altogether.
Click to expand...

Anandtech did.

37584.png


The relative differences in performance should be similar even today. Keep in mind you need to change the boot method from AHCI to RAID to activate SRT which is a kind of involved proces. You can find the method here

Q2: In that vein, what are some good SSD's to do this with? From what I have read the Samsung 840 is a good price/performance deal right now. I am concerned though that Samsung rates it for "only" 1000 program/erase cycles. Is this an issue to be worried about? The Adata SX900 seems to be on sale in my area right now and the paper specs look good, but is it a decent drive? I have trouble finding good reviews on it, is it something to avoid?
Click to expand...

It's not worth worrying about. P/E cycles will still last quite a few years at most consumer level usage. Even a budget SSD is going to have faster write performance than your hard drive's sustained read.

Q3: For SSD caching, is it worth it paying the extra for a "performance" drive vs non? For example the price difference between the Samsung 840 and 840Pro is about $30. I'm understanding that the 120GB drives are more run-of-the-mill while the 128GB are "enthusiast" models. Is that important for SSD caching?
Click to expand...

SSD caching is limited to 64GB by design. An 840 delivers almost the same read speeds and about half the write speeds of the Pro. It will be completely sufficient for your needs.

If you're a glutton for punishment you can take a 120GB drive, install Windows on it, setup SRT, setup an SRT cache partition then reinstall Windows again on the new, smaller partition so that you have the fastest possible boot drive and a cached data/game install drive.
 
Danj said:
This image amused me.

Really enjoying my Titan so far, had a great session of L4D2 with it yesterday - not the most demanding game of course but looks good anyway and plays really smoothly.
Click to expand...

L4D2 on my Titan is 120fps locked (thank God for 120hz monitors). Soooo good.
 
Talents said:
Can anyone recommend a good gaming keyboard? The one I currently have is wireless and absolutely sucks. I've looked at the ones in the OP but would like to see if there are any others available. My budget is about £50 ($76), maybe a bit more. Any help would be really appreciated as I've been looking for quite a while but to no avail.
Click to expand...

It all depends on what you want for gaming because it means many things to many people. Do you want a mechanical keyboard? Backlit? Macro keys? The ability to turn off Windows keys? Each of these are useful to different people for different reasons. It'd be helpful to know what you find most important in a keyboard since most of the keyboards that have all or most of these are well over $100.
 
Danj said:
This image amused me.

Really enjoying my Titan so far, had a great session of L4D2 with it yesterday - not the most demanding game of course but looks good anyway and plays really smoothly.
Click to expand...

To be fair, my old 9600GT could run L4D2 pretty well :P
 
Talents said:
Can anyone recommend a good gaming keyboard? The one I currently have is wireless and absolutely sucks. I've looked at the ones in the OP but would like to see if there are any others available. My budget is about £50 ($76), maybe a bit more. Any help would be really appreciated as I've been looking for quite a while but to no avail.
Click to expand...

Buy a mechanical keyboard which just costs a bit more. I personally use a Corsair K70 (~$120), which is a bit pricey but one of the very few mechanical keyboards that also has media control settings.
 
Sir Abacus said:
It all depends on what you want for gaming because it means many things to many people. Do you want a mechanical keyboard? Backlit? Macro keys? The ability to turn off Windows keys? Each of these are useful to different people for different reasons. It'd be helpful to know what you find most important in a keyboard since most of the keyboards that have all or most of these are well over $100.
Click to expand...

I want a mechanical keyboard and I don't care too much about the noise it makes. I couldn't really care about macro keys or backlit keyboards either. Although I do want a Number pad on it.
 
3570k overclocking question:

After delid, I need 1.4v to run at 4.7. Less than that crashes. Temps running Prime95 blend right at 70. Is that voltage OK?
 
kakashi08 said:
Whoa, I didn't even know something like that existed. LOL
Do those work fast as an Ethernet Cable from a modem?
On amazon they have different Mbps ones, 100 and 200mpbs. There only $44 without the wifi. That's not bad.
Click to expand...

Yeah they are supposed to be pretty awesome, I wanted to get one myself but I was lacking an extra power socket.
 
 
I'm considering switching over to a modular PSU and I (after doing some research) decided to settle for the Seasonic Platinum 760W (SS-760XP2). Would you recommend it?

The price seems to be either 179.99 or 189.99 depending on where I buy it.
 
claviertekky said:
9600 GT

beast

5 years have passed quickly.
Click to expand...

I had an XFX Black edition one and it was pretty beast for the time. A friend has it now and its going strong.
DigitalSoul said:
I'm considering switching over to a modular PSU and I (after doing some research) decided to settle for the Seasonic Platinum 760W (SS-760XP2). Would you recommend it?

The price seems to be either 179.99 or 189.99 depending on where I buy it.
Click to expand...

What are you trying to power? The Seasonic X750 is fully modular, a bit cheaper than the platinum and is one of the best units out there.
 
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