• Hey, guest user. Hope you're enjoying NeoGAF! Have you considered registering for an account? Come join us and add your take to the daily discourse.

"I need a New PC!" 2013 Part 2. Haswell = #IntelnoTIM, but free online. READ THE OP.

Status
Not open for further replies.

WolvenOne

Member
Well, I broke down and got an i5 Haswell and motherboard.

I hope you're happy NeoGaf! You guys finally broke me down, and now I'll be eating nothing but rice for the next month. Good thing I'm dieting anyway.

This was the deal in question: http://tinyurl.com/ks6gdd8

Nearly a hundred dollars off so, still a good deal, even if its more than I've spent on any other PC/Motherboard in any of my rigs. Though, to be fair I've only built two in my life. I'll be dropping these into my current rig, recycling every other part. So I'll be stuck with DDR3 1333 RAM until I can afford a couple new sticks, but that is fine.
 

Veelk

Banned

kennah

Member
I'm looking to sell my computer. Is there any recommendation on the price and where I can sell it?

What I have here are:

Radeon HD 4890
ASUS P6T SE LGA 1366
CMPSU-750TX 750W
Intel Core i7-920 Bloomfield 2.66GHz
CORSAIR XMS3 6GB (3 x 2GB) 240-Pin DDR3 SDRAM
Western Digital WD Black WD6401AALS 640GB

I'd also like to sell the other parts that come with it, if possible.

A 17 inch samsung screen
A panasonic stereo system (I have no idea what kind)

Thanks for any help you can offer.

Not as much as you'd like... I'd ballpark between 400-500 depending. The i7 is still kinda worth something
 

Veelk

Banned
Not as much as you'd like... I'd ballpark between 400-500 depending. The i7 is still kinda worth something

Is that including the monitor and stereo system? I know I don't give you much to go on there, but I have no idea what type they are beyond the brand name.

And yeah, I'm not surprised. This horse is a good 4-5 years old at this point. I'm just using it to soften the blow of whatever laptop I'll end up getting.
 

kennah

Member
Is that including the monitor and stereo system? I know I don't give you much to go on there, but I have no idea what type they are beyond the brand name.

And yeah, I'm not surprised. This horse is a good 4-5 years old at this point. I'm just using it to soften the blow of whatever laptop I'll end up getting.

Honestly your monitor and stereo don't add anything of value to the deal. A 17" monitor is $20 used on a good day, and the stereo you'd probably have better luck listing separately.
 

maneil99

Member
Can you link a guide? This interests me.
On mobile. Will link. What card exactly are you using. Its worth it and not dangerous at all. Using more power is just nvidias tdp. Increasing vcore by 0.0012mv is safe aswell. I've squuezed an extra 15% performance above my previous OC which is on a stock oc aswell. I ampushing 37% more performance risk free. Its awesome. Temps hit 82c but I wasn't running vsync. Plus I can prob notch down the vcore. Reccomend anyone with a 780 to do it.
 
Also, connecting your PC to a large TV works out great for controller friendly games but for keyboard and mouse gaming is often awkward. A quality monitor is the best choice in a lot of cases.

Yep. I've got mine hooked up to the 40" Samsung for TV watching and comfy-couch games, the 144Hz Asus for FPSes and clicky games. Best of both worlds. :)

Hey anyone with a gtx 7xx and the latest drivers had any problems with the Nvidia driver crashing while doing normal desktop stuff?

770, latest drivers, I too have it set to turn off monitor only and had a similar bizarre crash immediately after waking once, when the PC had been on for a day or two. Windows told me it was a display driver crash when I rebooted, but it hasn't repeated since.

You want the CPU HS fan on the otherside and blowing across the heatsink towards the back of the case

Given how many of us make this rookie mistake, you should put it in the OP. :p
 

kharma45

Member
You want the CPU HS fan on the otherside and blowing across the heatsink towards the back of the case

I remember looking at temperatures on the 212 for whether you have the cooled blowing across or pulling air across. Difference was about two degrees iirc.
 

maneil99

Member
I remember looking at temperatures on the 212 for whether you have the cooled blowing across or pulling air across. Difference was about two degrees iirc.

Still its generally better to use a single fan to blow through the heatsink. Think about how you would cool a bowl of soupl, would you inhale the air or blow on it?
 
OK, I have a question about laptop/ netbook RAM. I have a crappy little Acer Aspire One D270-1895, the system has Windows 7 Starter pre-installed and only 1GB of RAM.

From what I understand, I can upgrade this to 2GB on windows 7 Starter (or 4GB on Windows 7 Home).

CPUZ reports the RAM as: GU672203EP0200 1GB RAM DDR3 1333mhz PC3-10600 SODIMM 1.5v.

But I was wondering if RAM like this would be an acceptable upgrade?:

http://www.newegg.ca/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16820148490

This Crucial 2GB is rated at 1.35v but the RAM I have in this netbook is 1.5v. Will this work, anyone know anything about these netbooks? I can already open up the machine and get to the memory, so it will be quite an easy procedure. But I just need to know what ram I should get.
 

Brokun

Member
Well my PC went and broke itself so after much deliberation I went and bought an i7 Haswell system. Does that make me a bad person?

In truth I just wanted the socket for futureproofing. Hopefully Broadwell gets much more favorable reviews.
 

maneil99

Member
Well my PC went and broke itself so after much deliberation I went and bought an i7 Haswell system. Does that make me a bad person?

In truth I just wanted the socket for futureproofing. Hopefully Broadwell gets much more favorable reviews.

If you plan on overclockings I feel bad. Broadwell will most likely be like ivybridge and be X97 1150 so you will need a new board for PCI-E 4.0/DDR4 Ect or bios update for chip support. Not sure why you didn't wait a few weeks and get X79 IB-E. Its suppose to be soldered, and the 4820k is going to be cheaper then the 3770k...

http://www.anandtech.com/show/7193/intel-ivy-bridgee-pricing-leaked
http://www.guru3d.com/news_story/intel_ivy_bridge_e_has_solder_under_its_ihs.html

Basicly IB performance at SB/Delidded temps
 

Anteater

Member
Just finished putting together all the parts, don't have any games to run though, because downloading is slow.

Nothing blew up and no crashing so far, so I think that's pretty good for my first build, the hardest part was that my case felt too cramped with the giant cooler fan and gpu, it was difficult to plug things in, there were barely any space between the heatsink and the back of the case, so it was hard to plug in the cpu power cable and putting in the motherboard screws D:

I think I put the thermopaste on pretty badly, I hope I didn't mess it up. I squeezed too hard and put on too much >.>

Thanks for the OP, it was mighty helpful, was able to put together a list and order everything within a few days :D
 
I just bought that $299 120hz one. Very excited to try it out.

Depending on where you are, the Asus 144hz (VG248QE) and the other Benq 144hz (BenQ XL2411T) can be gotten for cheaper. The new Benq (XL2420TE) that is 144hz supposedly uses the same panel as the other 144hz ones has some sort of "ZeroFlicker" thing, but is $120+ more expensive.

Also to anyone else that is looking up reviews of that new monitor, watch out for youtube reviews. The main one I found was basically just an advertisement that was giving misleading info.
 
On mobile. Will link. What card exactly are you using. Its worth it and not dangerous at all. Using more power is just nvidias tdp. Increasing vcore by 0.0012mv is safe aswell. I've squuezed an extra 15% performance above my previous OC which is on a stock oc aswell. I ampushing 37% more performance risk free. Its awesome. Temps hit 82c but I wasn't running vsync. Plus I can prob notch down the vcore. Reccomend anyone with a 780 to do it.

EVGA 780 ACX
 
So after a clean install of the latest Nvidia drivers, things are...ok. Still not great. One oddity I've noticed is that whenever I try to play a bunch of games in succession, performance steadily decreases for each title I try, and for example, is noticeably worse when I go back to a game like Bioshock Infinite. Why would that be happening?
Sounds like a memory problem to me.
 

gblues

Banned
I shaved just over $100 off the cost of my build thanks to the suggestions in the OP:

- My original build had a i7-3770. New build has i5-3570K. Will the 4.2Ghz OC bring it up to the i7's performance?
- My original build had a MSI Z77A-65 Gaming M/B. New build has the MSI Z77A-G45. My only concern about the MSI is the performance of the PCI-X slots, but with an older GPU (GTX 560) it's probably a non-issue.
- Replaced Seagate 1TB drive with 2TB WD Green. more storage, higher capacity, and apparently Seagate's HDDs have gone to shit. Shame.
- Decided to add the CM 212 EVO into the mix since evidently the stock heatsink for Ivy Bridge sucks balls. And since I plan to OC (or at least want to be able to), seemed like a good idea.
- My SSD actually stayed about the same, except now the 128GB is the same price as the 120GB I specced out previously.

Original build: 838.96
New build: 724.94

I'm not upgrading the GPU quite yet, mainly because I have to choose between a new phone or a new GPU, and my phone is a GIANT PIECE OF SHIT so it's a higher budget priority. But I might upgrade the GPU later if I can get a good deal on a decent phone.

Man, I can't wait. I compared benchmarks between my current CPU (Phenom II X4 940) and even at stock speeds, the i5 blows it away.
 

kharma45

Member
I shaved just over $100 off the cost of my build thanks to the suggestions in the OP:

- My original build had a i7-3770. New build has i5-3570K. Will the 4.2Ghz OC bring it up to the i7's performance?
- My original build had a MSI Z77A-65 Gaming M/B. New build has the MSI Z77A-G45. My only concern about the MSI is the performance of the PCI-X slots, but with an older GPU (GTX 560) it's probably a non-issue.
- Replaced Seagate 1TB drive with 2TB WD Green. more storage, higher capacity, and apparently Seagate's HDDs have gone to shit. Shame.
- Decided to add the CM 212 EVO into the mix since evidently the stock heatsink for Ivy Bridge sucks balls. And since I plan to OC (or at least want to be able to), seemed like a good idea.
- My SSD actually stayed about the same, except now the 128GB is the same price as the 120GB I specced out previously.

Original build: 838.96
New build: 724.94

I'm not upgrading the GPU quite yet, mainly because I have to choose between a new phone or a new GPU, and my phone is a GIANT PIECE OF SHIT so it's a higher budget priority. But I might upgrade the GPU later if I can get a good deal on a decent phone.

Man, I can't wait. I compared benchmarks between my current CPU (Phenom II X4 940) and even at stock speeds, the i5 blows it away.

In gaming you'll notice little difference between an i5 and an i7 as most games aren't coded to use all the threads of an i7.

You'll still get PCIe 3, you'll have no bottleneck. What about the ASUS Z77 LK board?

Don't go for a WD Green, too slow and reports of reliability issues. Get a WD Blue.

What SSD is it? Make sure not to get a junk PSU either.
 

Zaph

Member
So, all the parts arrived yesterday...

Few things missing (cannibalising my current PC)
U2XjQJY.jpg

Almost everything installed. The ITX board has a ton of little bits and do-dahs to screw on. Took a while.

This is my build. There are many like it, but this one is mine.

...now that's all done I'm starting to get the itch to upgrade my GPU. The 670 is good, but struggles to hit 60 at 1440p. Hopefully I'll have the strength to wait for 8xx or whatever ATI has up its sleeve.
 

gblues

Banned
In gaming you'll notice little difference between an i5 and an i7 as most games aren't coded to use all the threads of an i7.

You'll still get PCIe 3, you'll have no bottleneck. What about the ASUS Z77 LK board?

Don't go for a WD Green, too slow and reports of reliability issues. Get a WD Blue.

What SSD is it? Make sure not to get a junk PSU either.

I already have a quite nice case and PSU.

The SSD I'm looking at is the Samsung 840 Pro 128GB.
 

knitoe

Member
...now that's all done I'm starting to get the itch to upgrade my GPU. The 670 is good, but struggles to hit 60 at 1440p. Hopefully I'll have the strength to wait for 8xx or whatever ATI has up its sleeve.
You need SLI/CF to hit 60fps @ 1440p using near max settings. I tried with a single Titan and ended up with two.


And, for anyone looking to buy a fan controller, don't get the Bitfenix Recon.
31gC3cNGb9L.jpg

I needed something to really silent my 5X140mm AF140 Quiet Edition. These fans are loud even with the included resistor cables. So, I bought the controller. The screen and viewing angles are crap. Worst touchscreen ever. It doesn't work so you end up with auto (max speed until Wiindows load) or max fan speed all the time. And, the Windows control software requires to you access a remote server which to have to jump through hoops to connect. No ideal why the fuck can't you just use it locally. I took that shit out asap. Instead, I went with a cheap 3 fan controller from Arc Midi case and MB 2 fan header set on silent mode.
 
I'm looking to sell my computer. Is there any recommendation on the price and where I can sell it?

What I have here are:

Radeon HD 4890
ASUS P6T SE LGA 1366
CMPSU-750TX 750W
Intel Core i7-920 Bloomfield 2.66GHz
CORSAIR XMS3 6GB (3 x 2GB) 240-Pin DDR3 SDRAM
Western Digital WD Black WD6401AALS 640GB

I'd also like to sell the other parts that come with it, if possible.

A 17 inch samsung screen
A panasonic stereo system (I have no idea what kind)

Thanks for any help you can offer.

Not a lot:
hd 4890: 30 bucks (these went for 50 second hand two years ago)
i7 920+ mobo is the most valuable part, maybe you can get 120-140 for these 2 together
6GB ddr3 ram;: 25-30 bucks
old 640GB hdd is worth very very little, might have damaged sectors or other mechanical wear and older hdds are slower than modern ones, maybe 10-15 dollars?
750w psu: if it's a nice brand maybe 25-30, could be less since it's 4+ years old I assume

if it includes a case and dvd rom etc you might get 300 for the whole thing if someone is woo'd by the i7 920

the screen if an lcd idk if you can even sell that, when these days new 1080p 23" (garbage) samsung monitors are 100 or less new.

there won't be any warranty left on any of these parts so that lowers the value too, you'll get more money for say a mobo or gpu that still has a year of warranty or is one of those lifetime warranty brands.
 
Got a new system on the way.

The new case came in today. I pretty much followed the spreadsheet for the most part.

i7 4770k
MSI Z87-G45
16 GB RAM G. Skillz 1866
MSI HD7970 3GB
Seasonic 650W PSU

I'll be replacing the following....

Phenom X4 955
8GB G. Skillz 1600
Geforce 460 GT

Pretty sure I'm going to be seeing a big performance jump. :D

I'll be using my existing drives.
 

Katyusha

Member
Welp, my GPU just died out of nowhere. So, looks like I'll have to go through with an RMA (again.) At least this means I'll have some more time to catch up on Persona 4 Golden...
 

Sub_Level

wants to fuck an Asian grill.
Current Specs (lol):

9480887759_b77e10cbe0_z.jpg


Budget: $800 (USA)

Main Use: Rate 4. Gaming. General Use. Emulation would be nice but not necessary.

Monitor resolution: What you see above is what I will be using and what I plan to keep. No plans to upgrade.

Specifics: Basically, I want to be able to play Battlefield 4 and Titanfall at 60FPS 1080p on at least High. Would be willing to turn certain shadows or AA down.

Reused parts: Sata HDD, HDMI Monitor, Sata Optical Drive, USB Mouse, USB Keyboard. Pls do not factor the OS into your estimate.

Date of build:Halloween :)

Overclocking: Maybe. Never done it before, would be good to learn.

So far I was looking at that Great Value build in the OP. But would a 7950 be enough?
 

Jijidasu

Member
Quick question: I'm considering building my new PC before moving back to Japan at the end of this year. How can I tell if my components will work in Japan? Thanks.
 

Hazaro

relies on auto-aim
Quick question: I'm considering building my new PC before moving back to Japan at the end of this year. How can I tell if my components will work in Japan? Thanks.
Check the Voltage rating of your monitor (Almost all are 100V-240V) and pretty much every single Power Supply either can switch or has a switch to change from 115V to 230V.

You'll need to pickup a 230V power cord though.
Current Specs (lol):

9480887759_b77e10cbe0_z.jpg


Budget: $800 (USA)

Main Use: Rate 4. Gaming. General Use. Emulation would be nice but not necessary.

Monitor resolution: What you see above is what I will be using and what I plan to keep. No plans to upgrade.

Specifics: Basically, I want to be able to play Battlefield 4 and Titanfall at 60FPS 1080p on at least High. Would be willing to turn certain shadows or AA down.

Reused parts: Sata HDD, HDMI Monitor, Sata Optical Drive, USB Mouse, USB Keyboard. Pls do not factor the OS into your estimate.

Date of build:Halloween :)

Overclocking: Maybe. Never done it before, would be good to learn.

So far I was looking at that Great Value build in the OP. But would a 7950 be enough?
Absolutely, 7950 is a beast of a card and has been going on sale often.
oh my god you guys i finally just set up lightboost with toastyx strobelight

it

it's beautiful
Welcome to PC Gaming x4
 

Jijidasu

Member

Entropia

No One Remembers
Sort of looking to build in the near future, but I ran that Speccy program and it said that my average CPU temp was 81C... isn't that dangerously high?

dK0n2bu.jpg
 

Stuggernaut

Grandma's Chippy
Ok this is likely a stupid question...

Is there a way to view two monitor inputs at the same time?

Meaning, if I have one source coming in to the DVI input on my monitor, and one source coming into the HDMI input of the same monitor, is there a way to see them on the same screen?

Like PIP on a tv?

Was thinking I could record PS3 games on my PC that way ;P
 

kharma45

Member
Sort of looking to build in the near future, but I ran that Speccy program and it said that my average CPU temp was 81C... isn't that dangerously high?

dK0n2bu.jpg

Far too high, you don't want to be above 65 degrees with that CPU.

Current Specs (lol):

9480887759_b77e10cbe0_z.jpg


Budget: $800 (USA)

Main Use: Rate 4. Gaming. General Use. Emulation would be nice but not necessary.

Monitor resolution: What you see above is what I will be using and what I plan to keep. No plans to upgrade.

Specifics: Basically, I want to be able to play Battlefield 4 and Titanfall at 60FPS 1080p on at least High. Would be willing to turn certain shadows or AA down.

Reused parts: Sata HDD, HDMI Monitor, Sata Optical Drive, USB Mouse, USB Keyboard. Pls do not factor the OS into your estimate.

Date of build:Halloween :)

Overclocking: Maybe. Never done it before, would be good to learn.

So far I was looking at that Great Value build in the OP. But would a 7950 be enough?

7950 is still a fabulous card. Happen to live near a Microcenter for the CPU and the case? If you do you could factor in an SSD. If not we can make some changes but this is roughly what I would look at for your build

PCPartPicker part list / Price breakdown by merchant / Benchmarks

CPU: Intel Core i5-3570K 3.4GHz Quad-Core Processor ($189.99 @ Microcenter)
CPU Cooler: Cooler Master Hyper 212 Plus 76.8 CFM Sleeve Bearing CPU Cooler ($19.99 @ Newegg)
Motherboard: Asus P8Z77-V LK ATX LGA1155 Motherboard ($123.97 @ Outlet PC)
Memory: Corsair Vengeance LP 8GB (2 x 4GB) DDR3-1866 Memory ($57.99 @ Newegg)
Video Card: Sapphire Radeon HD 7950 3GB Video Card ($219.99 @ Newegg)
Case: Fractal Design Core 3000 USB 3.0 (Black) ATX Mid Tower Case ($49.99 @ Microcenter)
Power Supply: SeaSonic 650W 80 PLUS Gold Certified ATX12V / EPS12V Power Supply ($59.99 @ Newegg)
Total: $721.91
(Prices include shipping, taxes, and discounts when available.)
(Generated by PCPartPicker 2013-08-11 05:52 EDT-0400)

or for a build that has more emulation grunt (but a higher price tag) you can go Haswell

PCPartPicker part list / Price breakdown by merchant / Benchmarks

CPU: Intel Core i5-4670K 3.4GHz Quad-Core Processor ($199.99 @ Microcenter)
CPU Cooler: Cooler Master Hyper 212 Plus 76.8 CFM Sleeve Bearing CPU Cooler ($19.99 @ Newegg)
Motherboard: MSI Z87-G45 Gaming ATX LGA1150 Motherboard ($154.99 @ Newegg)
Memory: Corsair Vengeance LP 8GB (2 x 4GB) DDR3-1866 Memory ($57.99 @ Newegg)
Video Card: Sapphire Radeon HD 7950 3GB Video Card ($219.99 @ Newegg)
Case: Fractal Design Core 3000 USB 3.0 (Black) ATX Mid Tower Case ($49.99 @ Microcenter)
Power Supply: SeaSonic 650W 80 PLUS Gold Certified ATX12V / EPS12V Power Supply ($59.99 @ Newegg)
Total: $762.93
(Prices include shipping, taxes, and discounts when available.)
(Generated by PCPartPicker 2013-08-11 05:54 EDT-0400)

Of course prices will change between now and then, it's unlikely that PSU will stay on sale at that price for too much longer. It's a fucking steal at that money.
 
Status
Not open for further replies.
Top Bottom