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"I need a New PC!" 2013 Part 2. Haswell = #IntelnoTIM, but free online. READ THE OP.

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ArynCrinn

Banned
Why!? Doesn't SLI scale very poorly at 4.

Because I want to, not because it'll give me a power level over 9000.

Also thanks .but like the others i am curious why you want to go with 4 of them since if i recall correctly diminishing returns will hit hard on those 3rd and 4th ones. making it not seem worth the hassle nor the cost of it.

Cost isn't much of a problem for me. And yes diminishing returns do factor in but Quad-SLI can improve performance in a variety of scenarios/games.
 

Coldsnap

Member
I know a few people have a Benq - Q 120hz monitor. Just wondering if they tried using a display port for 120hz? There's a lot of conflicting information out there if it will work.
 

kharma45

Member
Now that it's all here time to get to work

Sf9J3u2.jpg
 

Coldsnap

Member
That's pretty much how I built my first computer. Maybe add a last step; IF NOT TURNING ON, JAM IN HARDER OR JAM IN SOMEWHERE ELSE.
 

Mad Max

Member
CapXon capacitors have been shown to be lower quality in many instances, but as it is with all capacitors; a certain degree of grounding is needed to understand what people are talking about.

If the capacitors are next to hot components and burred under wires where they will not get any airflow, they will heat up and thus have a lower life span. If they are properly vented though and run cool most of their life, they will have a longer life span.

Typically, the desire for a certain brand over another is that the capacitors sold by the "Better" brand, generally last longer and are more true to their specs, due to a better formula being used to produce the electrolytic material inside.

I know all of that, but I'm not sure I understand your point here? They are still bad caps and much more likely to die when used inside a PSU than higher quality stuff. I've had to replace a bunch of popped capxons myself, all of which should have survived if they were up to spec.

Still it's your money so buy the ax760i if you want to, I'm not going to stop you :p.
 
I dunno when it comes out in the US or how much of a price difference there will be, but I'd say look at the 840 EVO that should be coming out very soon.

Not soon enough lol. Just ordered everything else I needed.


Waiting for Newegg's DIY saved me a few extra bucks. Woulda been a few more, but shoprunner doesn't give you two day shipping on cases, so I added that to my Amazon order instead.

After a pair of rebates, my grand total will be about $1465, monitor included. I'll post a few pics when everything's here and I do the build. Thanks to everyone who's offered input on whatever various part questions.
 
I'm a completely paranoid neophyte here but I'm kinda stalling on the construction of my PC because of the CPU installation onto the motherboard. I'm installing an i5-3570k onto a Z77A-G45 and I'm getting really freaked out when setting the latter onto the former. It fits in just fine and I have the correct lining for the mobo and processor, but when I bring the hatch down I can't bring myself to muster the force to actually close it because it feels like I'm gonna break something (there's a slightly cracking sound too when I bring the lever down too far). Does it really require me to press down harder or am I screwing up here? I don't wanna risk damages because I'm doing something wrong on my part.

lol completely paranoid. Probably just need to force it down, but maybe someone here can steer me in the right direction.
 

mkenyon

Banned
As long as the arrows and everyhing is all lined up, you are golden. Just push harder. I know it's scary. You wouldn't believe the number of people who posted almost exactly what you did in this thread :p
 

brentech

Member
Lol. Everytime. Needs an NSFW tag. Someone was about to walk into my room with a half naked girl building a PC. Would have been a weird one.

lol, sorry. will edit

the noises they make at the end for her laughing and enjoying the PC while playing just crack me up.
 
HAHA. I never made it to the end before. Skipped to it lol. What were they thinking.

"Hey, how much do you bet that we can still work while on drugs?" - Them

Also, someone please tell me that the video isn't even available non dubed. That it was only made for English speakers and intentionally made that way.
 

Chinbo37

Member
Lol sorry wasnt sure if this thread was only for build issues.


Anyways, I built a new desktop about 2 months ago. The MOBO is a MSI Mpower z77. It has onboard Lan and Bluetooth. I am running WIndows 7 64 bit.

It was my first build in about a decade but it went relatively smoothly, installed the drivers that i downloaded on the MSI website and was up and running with minimal difficulties.

However I turned on the computer today and I noticed my wireless would not connect. I thought there was some minor issue so I restarted several times but still no connection. I then opened Device Manager and I noticed the dreaded yellow exclamation mark.

Under "Network Adaptors" it appears my "Atheros AR9271 Wirless Network Adaptor" is not working. When i right click for more details it says - "This device cannot start Code 10".

I promise you it was working perfect last night. My wife did use the computer today but she claims as well internet was working. All she was doing was watching some TV shows she had torrented. No big installs or anything.

Just in case I did a system restore to the last 2 restore points with no luck. I checked for updated drives but there dont seem to be any. I tried to delete and reinstall the drivers but it stays the same. If I click "update drivers" in device manager and browse to the location of the drivers it doenst find them, so i just manually go there and double click the setup icon to run the driver install. I tried to just update them along with a clean install. I also reinstalled my ethernet drivers and my bluetooth drivers just in case.

Still no luck.


I am not exactly a computer genius and I cant really figure out what is going on. Can anyone help please?
 

kharma45

Member
Build done, Windows installed and updated.


So there's a Bitfenix Merc Alpha, Core i3 2100, Asus P8H61-MX R2.0 motherboard, 8GB of Crucial Ballistix Elite RAM, WD Blue 1TB and a 430w Corsair CX modular PSU. All for the grand total of £250, hard to beat for an office use PC.

The Merc wasn't too bad to build in, decent cable management options but space around the rear is quite tight so really had to fight to squeeze the back panel on. Only minor hiccup was the BIOS telling me I'd no CPU fan connected, double checked and however put the fan in didn't push it fully into the CPU header but that was an easy fix.
 
Can anyone tell me what these annoying little tabs on the back of the I/O shield are for? They're preventing me from getting my mobo into a good position to screw down and I'm tempted to just tear them off by now.
 

News Bot

Banned
Since I've got my CPU overclocked to 4.6GHz @ 1.180V stable, I'm now focusing on GPU overclocking.

I have a HIS 7970 IceQ X². So far, I've gotten my clocks to

Core: 1200MHz
Memory: 1600MHz

...But at 1.287V. It's stable, but what should be an ideal point to aim for with these? Voltage seems too high.
 

Azulsky

Member
Need thoughts. This is sorta my college is over you got 2 degrees and got a decent job a year later computer, also my build credit score up rig.
To replace my i5-750, 470 SLI rig.
Already have the Air 540 and the H100i sitting around.
AX1200i I can probably drop I have a HX850(circa 2010) that should work fine.
They dont have the 840 EVO drives on ppp yet so i put in the 840 Pro
My res is 1440p

PCPartPicker part list / Price breakdown by merchant / Benchmarks

CPU: Intel Core i7-4770K 3.5GHz Quad-Core Processor ($339.99 @ Newegg)
CPU Cooler: Corsair H100i 77.0 CFM Liquid CPU Cooler ($109.99 @ Newegg)
Motherboard: Asus Z87-WS ATX LGA1150 Motherboard ($298.94 @ Newegg)
Memory: Corsair Vengeance Pro 32GB (4 x 8GB) DDR3-2400 Memory
Storage: Samsung 840 Pro Series 256GB 2.5" Solid State Disk ($239.99 @ Newegg)
Video Card: EVGA GeForce GTX 780 3GB Video Card (2-Way SLI) ($705.91 @ Newegg)
Video Card: EVGA GeForce GTX 780 3GB Video Card (2-Way SLI) ($705.91 @ Newegg)
Case: Corsair Air 540 ATX Desktop Case ($159.98 @ Newegg)
Power Supply: Corsair 1200W 80 PLUS Platinum Certified ATX12V / EPS12V Power Supply ($336.98 @ Newegg)
Total: $2897.69
(Prices include shipping, taxes, and discounts when available.)
(Generated by PCPartPicker 2013-08-13 19:20 EDT-0400)
 

mkenyon

Banned
long story
Uninstall drivers for the device, restart PC, download newest from MSI, install those.
Need thoughts. This is sorta my college is over you got 2 degrees and got a decent job a year later computer, also my build credit score up rig.
To replace my i5-750, 470 SLI rig.
Already have the Air 540 and the H100i sitting around.
AX1200i I can probably drop I have a HX850(circa 2010) that should work fine.
They dont have the 840 EVO drives on ppp yet so i put in the 840 Pro
My res is 1440p

PCPartPicker part list / Price breakdown by merchant / Benchmarks

CPU: Intel Core i7-4770K 3.5GHz Quad-Core Processor ($339.99 @ Newegg)
CPU Cooler: Corsair H100i 77.0 CFM Liquid CPU Cooler ($109.99 @ Newegg)
Motherboard: Asus Z87-WS ATX LGA1150 Motherboard ($298.94 @ Newegg)
Memory: Corsair Vengeance Pro 32GB (4 x 8GB) DDR3-2400 Memory
Storage: Samsung 840 Pro Series 256GB 2.5" Solid State Disk ($239.99 @ Newegg)
Video Card: EVGA GeForce GTX 780 3GB Video Card (2-Way SLI) ($705.91 @ Newegg)
Video Card: EVGA GeForce GTX 780 3GB Video Card (2-Way SLI) ($705.91 @ Newegg)
Case: Corsair Air 540 ATX Desktop Case ($159.98 @ Newegg)
Power Supply: Corsair 1200W 80 PLUS Platinum Certified ATX12V / EPS12V Power Supply ($336.98 @ Newegg)
Total: $2897.69
(Prices include shipping, taxes, and discounts when available.)
(Generated by PCPartPicker 2013-08-13 19:20 EDT-0400)
No cooling can fix the heat issue Haswell has. Planning on delidding? If not, get a cheaper cooler. H60 will suffice if you like it for the aesthetics and ease of access to your parts.

What do you need a workstation board for? If this is for gaming, get one of the motherboards in the OP.

32GB of memory.... cut that to 16. 8 is already overkill. 16 is almost silly overkill. 32 is insane, unless you are doing some video editing.

Definitely don't need the 1200W PSU. Your current one will be just fine. If you want a new one anyway, check out one of the much loved Seasonic/Corsair 760W PSUs.

With the amount of money you are throwing at it, the only place to go really is X79/3930K, or heavy into silence/aesthetics with watercooling.

*edit*
Re-read, didn't notice you had the H100i already.
 

Chinbo37

Member
Thanks for the help, unfortunately I have done all that.

The drivers from MSI have not changed since I downloaded them last time. I downloaded them again just in case and have tried installing the drivers about 5-6 times in regular mode, safe mode, you name it.

Everytime it says the driver installs successfully and everytime the device is still not working properly with the yellow exclamation point and the Code 10 error in the details.
 

mkenyon

Banned
Are you certain that you uninstalled them fully, and restarted the computer without windows automatically grabbing something and installing it?
 

Chinbo37

Member
Are you certain that you uninstalled them fully, and restarted the computer without windows automatically grabbing something and installing it?



Ok this is a good question.


When I go to device manager and uninstall everything is fine. It removes from the list.

However when I go to install the driver and i double click on the setup icon i have 2 choices:

1 - repair (or reinstall i forget)
2 - unistall


The first time I chose repair and it seemed to reinstall it but no success

After that I chose the second option uninstall (even though I had already uninstalled from device manager) every time after i uninstalled it, immediately after uninstalling (even before the uninstall is done) it tries to add a new device and says that it did not install successfully.

Then I have an unknow device on device manager and if I update drivers from that device the device gets named correctly etc but it still doesnt work.
 

mkenyon

Banned
You want to get to the point that everything is uninstalled. When you boot up, it should be listed as an unknown device. If it is not, repeat process until it says so.

Basically, you need to purge whatever data is being used to install the driver, as it might be getting pulled from a temp file. Restarting wipes that slate clean to allow a fresh install.

If that doesn't work, there's some weird registry edits you might look into (google 'code 10 issue hardware'). If those don't work, it may be that the hardware has just failed.
 

Azulsky

Member
Uninstall drivers for the device, restart PC, download newest from MSI, install those.

No cooling can fix the heat issue Haswell has. Planning on delidding? If not, get a cheaper cooler. H60 will suffice if you like it for the aesthetics and ease of access to your parts.

What do you need a workstation board for? If this is for gaming, get one of the motherboards in the OP.

32GB of memory.... cut that to 16. 8 is already overkill. 16 is almost silly overkill. 32 is insane, unless you are doing some video editing.

Definitely don't need the 1200W PSU. Your current one will be just fine. If you want a new one anyway, check out one of the much loved Seasonic/Corsair 760W PSUs.

With the amount of money you are throwing at it, the only place to go really is X79/3930K, or heavy into silence/aesthetics with watercooling.

*edit*
Re-read, didn't notice you had the H100i already.


Im not even totally sure how much I am going to push the i7. I might just let the Asus software do its auto OC and leave it at that provided the temps and stability tests work out. I am pairing it with low noise rad fans, probably just sp120 quiets.

I would considering 16GB the reasonable choice as I tend to use 5GB pretty easily on my current rig(8GB). That would give me some space for Ramdisk. Im not too sure on how overclocking the memory subsystem even effects performance in non-gaming like media encoding. I would worst case just default to 1600 CL9 16GB.

As for the motherboard I am pretty scared of anything except high end Asus and I dont want the features of the other high end Asus boards like the Wifi cards. I also like that because it is a Quad capable board i can use slots 1,3 instead of 1,2 for the 780's. I have replaced wayy to many MSi and Gb boards relative to Asus( I build nearly all of my friends computers). I also dont need the fancy sound stuff they have in the other high end Asus boards because I have an external DAC + AMP, all i need is the optical out or a usb2 slot. I do use VMware and apparently the i217 NIC is the hottest shit for that so that was some encouragement for this board.

The WS just seemed like a solid high end option for supporting GFX cards but not the other things. I admit my fear of non-Asus is highly irrational.


I dont see the appeal of LGA2011. Its going to be replaced next year when Haswell E hits and its currently running a 2 year old PCH(x79) and they have to run external controllers to get it up to the same peripheral count as 1150 boards.

I can put a build together for LGA 2011 and compare.
 

RSTEIN

Comics, serious business!
Since I've got my CPU overclocked to 4.6GHz @ 1.180V stable, I'm now focusing on GPU overclocking.

I have a HIS 7970 IceQ X². So far, I've gotten my clocks to

Core: 1200MHz
Memory: 1600MHz

...But at 1.287V. It's stable, but what should be an ideal point to aim for with these? Voltage seems too high.

Just keep going until you get artifacts or exceed 90 degrees.
 

Durante

Member
8 GB memory is only overkill if you don't use it :p

I already ran out of memory twice on my 12 GB system. I'll go 16 at least when I upgrade (would have preferred 32, but not with the recent uptick in memory prices).
 

Chinbo37

Member
Well its working. Seriously I dont know how that happened.


It was not working, I shut it down because I was going to open my case just to get a better look. I decided to turn it on again to try to install drivers one more time and it works.


Thanks for your help. Hope that doesnt happen again.
 

Azulsky

Member
8 GB memory is only overkill if you don't use it :p

I already ran out of memory twice on my 12 GB system. I'll go 16 at least when I upgrade (would have preferred 32, but not with the recent uptick in memory prices).

Im fairly sure i paid $250 for my current 8GB set in 2010 :(
 

Azulsky

Member
Okay so this is the latest iteration. Would it not be better to wait until Ivy E at this point and get the low end Hexacore if I was to go 2011?

LGA2011/X79:

PCPartPicker part list

CPU: Intel Core i7-3930K 3.2GHz 6-Core Processor ($569.99 @ Newegg)
Motherboard: Asus P9X79 LE ATX LGA2011 Motherboard ($233.49 @ Newegg)
Memory: Corsair Vengeance Pro 32GB (4 x 8GB) DDR3-1600 Memory ($299.99 @ Newegg)
Storage: Samsung 840 Pro Series 256GB 2.5" Solid State Disk* ($239.99 @ Newegg)
Video Card: EVGA GeForce GTX 780 3GB Video Card (2-Way SLI) ($705.91 @ Newegg)
Video Card: EVGA GeForce GTX 780 3GB Video Card (2-Way SLI) ($705.91 @ Newegg)
Total: $2755.28


LGA1150/Z87:

PCPartPicker part list

CPU: Intel Core i7-4770K 3.5GHz Quad-Core Processor ($339.99 @ Newegg)
Motherboard: Asus Z87-WS ATX LGA1150 Motherboard ($298.94 @ Newegg)
Memory: Corsair Vengeance Pro 32GB (4 x 8GB) DDR3-1600 Memory ($299.99 @ Newegg)
Storage: Samsung 840 Pro Series 256GB 2.5" Solid State Disk* ($239.99 @ Newegg)
Video Card: EVGA GeForce GTX 780 3GB Video Card (2-Way SLI) ($705.91 @ Newegg)
Video Card: EVGA GeForce GTX 780 3GB Video Card (2-Way SLI) ($705.91 @ Newegg)
Total: $2590.73

*Stand-in for 840 EVO
 

TheD

The Detective
So I got a HD7970 yesterday and it is a strange non Ghz version (that is volt locked :( and has an insane cooling system that keeps it a good 20c at load under what the stock cooler does) but running at 1Ghz anyway, the memory only runs at the non Ghz edition's clock speed.
I did overclock it to 1500Mhz and it worked fine, but today the clock seems to be stuck at the stock 3D clocks (and not downclocking) and MSI afterburner's (that is what I used to overclock it) setting are no longer taking effect and the driver's built in overclocking is also not doing a thing.



8 GB memory is only overkill if you don't use it :p

I already ran out of memory twice on my 12 GB system. I'll go 16 at least when I upgrade (would have preferred 32, but not with the recent uptick in memory prices).

I have run out of memory with 16GB a fair amount of times (I really do not like closing browser tabs).
 

Llyranor

Member
Okay, this is my final planned build:

(Main change is that I upgraded from GTX 770 to GTX 780)

http://ca.pcpartpicker.com/p/1rGut

CPU
i7 4770 Haswell quad core 3.5ghz
http://ncix.com/products/?sku=81325
340$

MB
Gigabyte GA-Z87-D3HP
http://www.ncix.com/products/?sku=84039
135$

RAM
8gb DDR3 1.5volt
http://www.ncix.com/products/?sku=68090
80$

GPU
GTX 780 3gb
http://www.ncix.com/products/?sku=88880
700$

HDD
Seagate Barracuda 1TB 7200RPM 64MB SATA
http://www.ncix.com/products/?sku=65701
80$

SSD
250gb SSD
http://www.ncix.com/products/?sku=77211
190$

PSU
650W
http://www.ncix.com/products/?sku=76943
120$

Case
http://www.ncix.com/products/?sku=65970
100$

Optical drive
Whatever, I just want something that works
http://www.ncix.com/products/?sku=76258
23$

Heatsink
CM Hyper 212 Evo
http://www.ncix.com/products/?sku=64385
35$

Sound card
http://www.ncix.com/products/?sku=56330
24$

Monitor
ASUS VG248QE 24IN 144Hz
http://www.ncix.com/products/?sku=80244
270$

OS
Win7 Home Premium 64bit
http://ncix.com/products/?sku=45271
98$

das mechanical keyboard
http://ncix.com/products/?sku=75028
110$

Logitech G400S mouse
http://www.ncix.com/products/index.php?sku=82197
50$

Wifi adapter
http://www.ncix.com/products/?sku=69169
40$

I'm going to pricematch some of these and see where it leads me.

Thoughts?
 
Build done, Windows installed and updated.



So there's a Bitfenix Merc Alpha, Core i3 2100, Asus P8H61-MX R2.0 motherboard, 8GB of Crucial Ballistix Elite RAM, WD Blue 1TB and a 430w Corsair CX modular PSU. All for the grand total of £250, hard to beat for an office use PC.

The Merc wasn't too bad to build in, decent cable management options but space around the rear is quite tight so really had to fight to squeeze the back panel on. Only minor hiccup was the BIOS telling me I'd no CPU fan connected, double checked and however put the fan in didn't push it fully into the CPU header but that was an easy fix.

That's the one you built for your father in law, right? Nice.
 
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