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"I need a New PC!" 2013 Part 2. Haswell = #IntelnoTIM, but free online. READ THE OP.

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Deitus

Member
Yes the front little plastic lever on the PCIE slot works like on a ram slot. Once the card is fully depressed into the slot it engages on that front hook. Which doesnt really do shit because the real weight of the card is held by the screws on the back.

You might have to nestle that front hook into the lever before pushing the card into the slot.

Watch this video at 2:40 ish

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=uz-Jo0F5HFk

See how he gets the front engaged then the back.

Hmmm. Well when I place the card into the slot, the screws don't line up like in that video. This is what it looks like:

eMZevdr.jpg

I can force the card to line up by lifting it up at the end (the side opposite the screws). But when I try to screw it in by doing that, after a few turns, I can feel the card resisting more and it feels like it's pulling out of the slot. At this point I stop because I don't want to risk damaging anything.

I've tried a different card and got the same problem, so the problem seems to be with the motherboard or the case (or both).
 

Azulsky

Member
Its the case

Get your screw ready and push on the back of the case so the holes line up then just screw it down. Even if you have a steel case it should not take much pressure at all to push the PCIE bit 1/2 that small distance.

Happens all the time. I had to do it for my cards in my new Corsair case. You sometimes have to manhandle motherboards too when the IO panel doesnt let the board line up with the standoffs.

The card is going to be under a small bit of tension which is good because heavy cards that arent secured at the back of the case will slowly rip the PCIE slot out after a decent while, or at best bend it.
 

Deitus

Member
Its the case

Get your screw ready and push on the back of the case so the holes line up then just screw it down. Even if you have a steel case it should not take much pressure at all to push the PCIE bit 1/2 that small distance.

Happens all the time. I had to do it for my cards in my new Corsair case. You sometimes have to manhandle motherboards too when the IO panel doesnt let the board line up with the standoffs.

The card is going to be under a small bit of tension which is good because heavy cards that arent secured at the back of the case will slowly rip the PCIE slot out after a decent while, or at best bend it.

Well that worked, thanks. I had tried that before, but I stopped because it seemed to be bending and pulling more than seemed healthy to me. But this time I powered through, and it screwed in all the way without anything seeming to move or snap, so I think I'm good.
 

kidko

Member
I now have another problem, when I turn on the power supply and hit the power button on the case(Gigabyte gz-g2 plus ) nothing happens. There is an Led light on the mother board (Asus z87 A) the comes on when powered by it is hard to tell if the power button on the case is properly connected as there seems to be no feasible way to open the front panel of the case.

Another thing you can do is use the reset button as a power button. Just put the case wire labeled reset on the pw pins
 

Azulsky

Member
Well that worked, thanks. I had tried that before, but I stopped because it seemed to be bending and pulling more than seemed healthy to me. But this time I powered through, and it screwed in all the way without anything seeming to move or snap, so I think I'm good.

No problem. Dont worry about that tension there, its why they make that bracket metal in the first place.
 

braves01

Banned
Forgive me if this isn't the right place to ask this, but I figure people who post in this thread will probably be able to answer my question.

I'm thinking about picking up Skyrim for PC since gmg's having a Bethesda sale right now. However, I'm not sure my laptop will be able to give me decent enough performance. It's a Lenovo y510p, but not the dual video card, SLI model. It's got an i7, a single GT 750M 2 GB GDDR5, and 8 GB RAM.

Will I be able to run vanilla at 1080p with at least 25-30 fps?
 

Eusis

Member
Should I be concerned about how I effectively can't update the 560 ti anymore? nVidia's new drivers always go screwy with it, and there IS that good deal on Newegg for a 7950, but I'd really rather wait another year or two and ride out the PS4 instead.
 

PandaL

Member
Forgive me if this isn't the right place to ask this, but I figure people who post in this thread will probably be able to answer my question.

I'm thinking about picking up Skyrim for PC since gmg's having a Bethesda sale right now. However, I'm not sure my laptop will be able to give me decent enough performance. It's a Lenovo y510p, but not the dual video card, SLI model. It's got an i7, a single GT 750M 2 GB GDDR5, and 8 GB RAM.

Will I be able to run vanilla at 1080p with at least 25-30 fps?


http://www.notebookcheck.net/NVIDIA-GeForce-GT-750M.90245.0.html
 

PandaL

Member
For people who missed this news.

  • HIS R9 280X iPower IceQ X² Boost Clock 3GB GDDR5 PCI-E DLDVI-I/HDMI/2xMini DP
  • HIS R7 250 iCooler 2GB DDR3 PCI-E HDMI/SLDVI-D/VGA
  • HIS R7 250 iCooler 1GB GDDR5 PCI-E HDMI/SLDVI-D/VGA
  • HIS R7 250 IceQ 1GB GDDR5 PCI-E HDMI/SLDVI-D/VGA
  • HIS R7 240 iCooler 2GB DDR3 PCI-E HDMI/SLDVI-D/VGA
  • HIS R7 240 IceQ 2GB DDR3 PCI-E HDMI/SLDVI-D/VGA
  • HIS R7 240 iCooler 1GB GDDR5 PCI-E HDMI/SLDVI-D/VGA


http://www.neogaf.com/forum/showthread.php?t=677669
 

Eusis

Member
For people who missed this news.

  • HIS R9 280X iPower IceQ X² Boost Clock 3GB GDDR5 PCI-E DLDVI-I/HDMI/2xMini DP
  • HIS R7 250 iCooler 2GB DDR3 PCI-E HDMI/SLDVI-D/VGA
  • HIS R7 250 iCooler 1GB GDDR5 PCI-E HDMI/SLDVI-D/VGA
  • HIS R7 250 IceQ 1GB GDDR5 PCI-E HDMI/SLDVI-D/VGA
  • HIS R7 240 iCooler 2GB DDR3 PCI-E HDMI/SLDVI-D/VGA
  • HIS R7 240 IceQ 2GB DDR3 PCI-E HDMI/SLDVI-D/VGA
  • HIS R7 240 iCooler 1GB GDDR5 PCI-E HDMI/SLDVI-D/VGA


http://www.neogaf.com/forum/showthread.php?t=677669
Guess that can also double as an answer-of-sorts to my question: upgrades are coming, prices will drop, and I doubt keeping drivers up to date on the 560 Ti will matter when held off for another year or whatever.
 
Can I pretty much run any indie games on Steam with an AMD A10-6800K Richland 4.1GHz?

Will AMD come out with miniGPU solutions like the DirectCUmini in the future?

I should have a Lian Li PC-Q30 build once I flesh this last question out. Thanks in advance.
 

kharma45

Member
Can I pretty much run any indie games on Steam with an AMD A10-6800K Richland 4.1GHz?

Will AMD come out with miniGPU solutions like the DirectCUmini in the future?

I should have a Lian Li PC-Q30 build once I flesh this last question out. Thanks in advance.

An A10 will handle most indie games with ease.
 
An A10 will handle most indie games with ease.

Alright! Thanks. I don't like my PC to cannibalize my PS4 multi-platform games this early in the new gen cycle. I like the GTX 670 DirectCUmini, but don't mind holding off until they come out with a 700 or even 800 series version. Maybe AMD will compete in that space too. Ill post my build in a few minutes. Thanks to all who helped last week as well.
 
Building a system for a friend. He wants to save a bit of money by going case + power supply in one. I think spending a little extra on a better power supply and case separately is the way to go. Does it really matter or is it worth spending an extra 50 bucks? I figure the combined solutions aren't going to be the best of power supplies (read terribly inefficient) so that's what I'm basing it on.
 

Addnan

Member
Building a system for a friend. He wants to save a bit of money by going case + power supply in one. I think spending a little extra on a better power supply and case separately is the way to go. Does it really matter or is it worth spending an extra 50 bucks?

Which one? Most will come with really shitty PSU. Some Silverstone ones might be good enough.
 

Azulsky

Member
Alright! Thanks. I don't like my PC to cannibalize my PS4 multi-platform games this early in the new gen cycle. I like the GTX 670 DirectCUmini, but don't mind holding off until they come out with a 700 or even 800 series version. Maybe AMD will compete in that space too. Ill post my build in a few minutes. Thanks to all who helped last week as well.

The reviews for the 760 Mini just hit the net yesterday. I am trying hard to get a friend to build a Mini-ITX case with one of these
 
PCPartPicker part list / Price breakdown by merchant / Benchmarks

CPU: Intel Core i5-4670K 3.4GHz Quad-Core Processor ($229.99 @ Amazon)
Motherboard: MSI Z87-G55 ATX LGA1150 Motherboard ($147.86 @ Newegg)
Memory: G.Skill Ares Series 8GB (2 x 4GB) DDR3-1600 Memory ($57.99 @ Newegg)
Storage: Western Digital Caviar Blue 1TB 3.5" 7200RPM Internal Hard Drive ($59.98 @ Outlet PC)
Video Card: Gigabyte Radeon HD 7950 3GB Video Card ($203.98 @ Newegg)
Case: Fractal Design Define R4 (Black Pearl) ATX Mid Tower Case ($79.99 @ Newegg)
Power Supply: Antec Basiq Plus 550W 80 PLUS Certified ATX12V Power Supply ($64.99 @ Newegg)
Total: $844.78
(Prices include shipping, taxes, and discounts when available.)
(Generated by PCPartPicker 2013-09-13 06:44 EDT-0400)

That is $874 before rebate and 844 after, but no OS/accessories. Windows 7/8 OEM can be bought for $80-90. If the 800 is just for parts and you are still going to your 1000 with software and accessories this would be perfect. Keyboard/mouse/OS will be less than $130-160. If you want a DVD drive add another $20.

Hey, so I've been digging through this thread and a million other resources trying to build my first PC. The original poster who got this build as a response wanted basically the same thing I want: A console replacement PC that runs games at 1080p w/ nice frame rates and is quiet. I'm considering just ripping this build off wholesale.

My question, though: I had started to put together something based around a Gigibyte G85 mobo that's half the price of the one recommended here. I had not intended on overclocking (that seems like a bridge too far), so taking some advice elsewhere, I was thinking about going mega simple on the board. Would that be a mistake?

I was also going for a GTX 760 instead of the suggested card, which it looks like is no longer available for that price. I'm open to other suggestions.

I'd also like a SSD drive. Any suggestions on that? Thanks.
 
Which one? Most will come with really shitty PSU. Some Silverstone ones might be good enough.

Not sure which one. He was just looking at them and I let him know they were usually garbage so I think I have him convinced to buy the two separately.

Incidentally a lot were top mounted psu's too..
 

kharma45

Member
Hey, so I've been digging through this thread and a million other resources trying to build my first PC. The original poster who got this build as a response wanted basically the same thing I want: A console replacement PC that runs games at 1080p w/ nice frame rates and is quiet. I'm considering just ripping this build off wholesale.

My question, though: I had started to put together something based around a Gigibyte G85 mobo that's half the price of the one recommended here. I had not intended on overclocking (that seems like a bridge too far), so taking some advice elsewhere, I was thinking about going mega simple on the board. Would that be a mistake?

I was also going for a GTX 760 instead of the suggested card, which it looks like is no longer available for that price. I'm open to other suggestions.

I'd also like a SSD drive. Any suggestions on that? Thanks.

Overclocking is easy and brings 20-30% linear performance improvement. If you do not wish to do it then you a non-K CPU and an H87 board is all you'll need.

SSD will depend on where you live in the world.

Not sure which one. He was just looking at them and I let him know they were usually garbage so I think I have him convinced to buy the two separately.

Incidentally a lot were top mounted psu's too..

It's the case that dictates how the PSU is mounted not the PSU itself.
 
Overclocking is easy and brings 20-30% linear performance improvement. If you do not wish to do it then you a non-K CPU and an H87 board is all you'll need.

SSD will depend on where you live in the world.


I might go with an OC board and fuss with it later. Will I definitely need extra cooling? Will noise be an issue?

As far as SSD, I'm in the US. Thanks.
 

suffah

Does maths and stuff
So I'm running an old HD6870 and want to upgrade because of the HEAT my card produces. The only games I really play are Diablo3 and some indies which the 6870 is more than capable of handling.

I am considering getting something like a 650Ti Boost which is in my budget.

Any suggestions for cool(er) video cards? Should I downgrade my card??
 
Oh yeah, one more question: I own two copies of Windows 7. I guess I'm gonna need 8 now? Which version do I buy to avoid all that crazy touchscreen business?
 

Xyphie

Member
Oh yeah, one more question: I own two copies of Windows 7. I guess I'm gonna need 8 now? Which version do I buy to avoid all that crazy touchscreen business?

You can really only purchase two versions (Windows 8 (Core) and Windows 8 Pro) and you get the modern UI with both. Unless you need the enterprise features like ability to join Active Directory domains etc of the Pro version your best option is the OEM version of Windows 8 for ~$100.
 

Anton668

Member
There's also the revised PC-343B Cube HPTX which has the PSU on the other side. Shame about the lack of a window though.



http://forums.overclockers.co.uk/showthread.php?t=18538181

holy shit that things pricey!
converted thats $452.51



Oh yeah, one more question: I own two copies of Windows 7. I guess I'm gonna need 8 now? Which version do I buy to avoid all that crazy touchscreen business?
either... then get this...

http://www.stardock.com/products/start8/

or

http://www.classicshell.net/
 
So I'm running an old HD6870 and want to upgrade because of the HEAT my card produces. The only games I really play are Diablo3 and some indies which the 6870 is more than capable of handling.

I am considering getting something like a 650Ti Boost which is in my budget.

Any suggestions for cool(er) video cards? Should I downgrade my card??

You could re-apply some good thermal paste to the GPU and Heatsink/fan and if that doesn't help then, possibly, under-volt your card. Arctic MX-2 is dirt cheap and is not electric conductive, so it's harder to screw something up.

If you are going to upgrade to a 650ti Boost I personally would try to get a 2GB version.
 

kharma45

Member
Oh yeah, one more question: I own two copies of Windows 7. I guess I'm gonna need 8 now? Which version do I buy to avoid all that crazy touchscreen business?

Are you going to be still using both copies when you get your new PC? If not you can transfer one of the W7 licenses over onto it.
 
I'm planning on buying a new laptop, is Malware-bytes and MSE still the flagship free anti-virus softwares here on GAF, or is my choice: avg free edition good enough?
 

Polymath

Neo Member
Done.
Forgot to order fittings for the XSPC RS120 and didn't want to wait so that's for the next time.
4rlyV.png


4rlCl.png


Sorry for the crappy pictures it's late and dark in my room.
For a better idea of the actual glow try looking at the reflections on the left.
 

gemoran4

Member
I posted here a few months ago, but decided to wait on building a pc for personal reasons. I decided i'd revisit and start from scratch since prices have changed and i have a bit more defined goals/budgets for what I want from the PC. If anybody has time to help I'd definitely appreciate it

So I'll do the survey first:

Your Current Specs: none

Budget: $700-$900, United States

Main Use: Gaming, Light Gaming, General Usage

Monitor Resolution: 1920x1080 is what i'm looking for, and i need a monitor

List SPECIFIC games or applications that you MUST be able to run well: Games i own/want to play on Steam (some examples): Tomb Raider, Dishonored, Skyrim, Total War: Rome 2, Alan Wake, Dead Island, PlanetSide 2, The Witcher/Witcher 2, Saints Row the 3rd, Metro 2033

Is 30FPS acceptable? 60? 120? How important is PhysX / SuperSampling / CUDA to you? 30FPS is acceptable. I'd like to have some level of anti-aliasing, PhysX and CUDA would be nice but not required

Looking to reuse any parts?: no parts to reuse (unless i'm misunderstanding this question)

When will you build?: Do you have a deadline? No deadline, I will build when I have a build that I feel good about

Will you be overclocking?: Yes (if the CPU in the build is unlocked)

Other Notes: I can get Windows 7 (32 bit/64 bit) or Windows 8 (32 bit/64 bit) for free from the college of engineering site at my university, so no need to add that to the costs. (You can however tell me which you would recommend me using though).
 

TheExodu5

Banned
I'm not up to speed with current components, so I won't make any recommendations, but you should have no trouble getting an appropriate build for that budget.

Also, I'd personally recommend Windows 7 64-bit. I use Windows 8 but I feel it to be unecessary and also less stable than Windows 7. I wish I still had access to Windows 7.
 

Dawg

Member
I've been asking questions about the Asus VG248QE because I was interested in a 120hz screen, but I noticed the BenQ XL2411T is like €50 cheaper.

Since I've read good things about it and it is supposed to be better than the Asus according to some people, I am considering it. It's 260 instead of 310.

I did notice the site I'm buying it from says it has a 5ms response rate (black to white I guess though). Is that slower than Asus? A few other sites said it has 1ms, so I'm confused.
 
Thinking of either selling my 360 + games and laptop for about 500, then getting about $200 or more and getting a gaming PC, or selling my 360 + games, and getting a PS4.

This is what I plan to get if I choose the former option:


  • Your Current Specs: HP G62-435DX
  • Budget: $700-$750
  • Main Use:
  • Light Gaming - ?
  • Gaming - 5
  • Emulation (PS2/Wii) - 1
  • Video Editing - 1
  • Streaming games in HD - 4
  • 3D/Model work (and what program) - 1
  • General Usage (Word, Web, 1080p playback) - 4
  • Monitor Resolution: 1920 x 1080 @60-120HZ
  • List SPECIFIC games or applications that you MUST be able to run well: Battlefield 4, AC4, Watch Dogs, TitanFall, NFS Rivals, FL Studio 10,
  • When will you build?: Not sure.
  • Will you be overclocking?: No
Also, feel free to check out my PCPartPicker list and tell me if anything needs changing:
http://pcpartpicker.com/user/KTorkel/saved/1ZM5
 

LCGeek

formerly sane
I've been asking questions about the Asus VG248QE because I was interested in a 120hz screen, but I noticed the BenQ XL2411T is like €50 cheaper.

Since I've read good things about it and it is supposed to be better than the Asus according to some people, I am considering it. It's 260 instead of 310.

I did notice the site I'm buying it from says it has a 5ms response rate (black to white I guess though). Is that slower than Asus? A few other sites said it has 1ms, so I'm confused.

The VG248QE has the best LB mode if you aren't in for colors at 24" size. This has been tested so I'm not being subjective. Check the hardocp post for a clearbreak down of the 24" and 27"models with the pros and cons of each. If you're in europe the BenQ is a better buy because it's cheaper yet if money or colors isn't an issue and you want a really good experience get the VG248QE.

Also I do not care which LB monitor you buy if you have the means Dematte them. The AG coating kills the contrast and colors compared to when it doesn't have them.
 

Deitus

Member
I'm trying to pull all my data off my HDD before I reformat it, and I'm just realizing how Dan hard it is tho locate game saves. Is there some trick to this?
 

LCGeek

formerly sane
I'm trying to pull all my data off my HDD before I reformat it, and I'm just realizing how Dan hard it is tho locate game saves. Is there some trick to this?

google search it's what I do. Since I clone my drives and turn them in to ghost iso I never worry unless the games don't offer reasonable saving options.
 
The Mercury series are mATX. The ATX M8/M10 are $500 cases.

mATX is sufficient for the majority of enthusiasts these days, mini-ITX even. The S3 starts at $200. You won't find better build quality/design from any of the major case manufacturers at that price. Solid, thick, aluminium with not a single rivet in construction. "Last case you'll ever need."
 

Deitus

Member
google search it's what I do. Since I clone my drives and turn them in to ghost iso I never worry unless the games don't offer reasonable saving options.

I'm trying the Google search route, but with ~100 games, with every one stored in a seemingly random location, it is becoming unbearably tedious.

I had considered imaging my drive, but I don't currently have a backup drive to use for that. My other drive is an SSD and not nearly big enough to accommodate that, which is why I was just going to manually transfer over the important data (which was working just fine for everything but game saves). It would probably be worth buying a backup just to bypass this nonsense.

My concern is that I'm going from Vista to Windows 8, and I assume the file structure has changed somewhat. If I image the Vista drive, and restore the image in Windows 8, could changed file paths screw me up, especially with some of these saves that have really obscure locations? If I still have to dig through to find files to move them to the updated directory, then it doesn't really help much.
 
Guys sorry to ask on this thread but I am looking for a good video capture card to take a direct video feed for games in 1080p and 60fps to make some comparisons with Wii U, Xbox 360 and Ps3 to end some speculations about the conversation that is going on here. I did some research about the equipment DF are using to screen cap and take video but the only thing I found was from their old site that they were using this.

http://www.digitalfoundry.org/blog/?p=815

and this

http://www.eurogamer.net/articles/di...meplay-capture

Which they did not update since 2011... This equipment do not capture video or screenshots at 1080p only in 720p which I find odd.

They do not give any information to my knowledge what equipment they are using now on Eurogamer face offs so I can make some market research to buy similar equipment.

I made some very interesting finds about Rayman Legends and Splinter Cell Blacklist versions of the Wii U which gives many infos about the Latte but I need proof to back them up before I post so any help would appreciated.

I was going to buy this capture card but if anyone has any suggestions or more information about capturing video cards that can record at 1080p and 60fps, because they cards I found in my country can only capture 1080p 30fps.

http://www.sknet-web.co.jp/english/m...ification.html
 

Azulsky

Member
mATX is sufficient for the majority of enthusiasts these days, mini-ITX even. The S3 starts at $200. You won't find better build quality/design from any of the major case manufacturers at that price. Solid, thick, aluminium with not a single rivet in construction. "Last case you'll ever need."

I dont doubt the quality of the case but for the sake of comparison between 2 cases the only fair way is to pick the one that fits the same components and follows the same layout.


The 540 Air and the new Lian Li would line up with the M8 or M10, which are not quite as competively priced as the Mercury cases.
 
I dont doubt the quality of the case but for the sake of comparison between 2 cases the only fair way is to pick the one that fits the same components and follows the same layout.


The 540 Air and the new Lian Li would line up with the M8 or M10, which are not quite as competively priced as the Mercury cases.

I didn't know there were rules to this discussion. But you are right, it's not a fair comparison: Horizontal mobo layout > Vertical mobo layout anyday.
 

LordAlu

Member
I posted here a few months ago, but decided to wait on building a pc for personal reasons. I decided i'd revisit and start from scratch since prices have changed and i have a bit more defined goals/budgets for what I want from the PC. If anybody has time to help I'd definitely appreciate it

So I'll do the survey first:

Your Current Specs: none
Budget: $700-$900, United States
Main Use: Gaming, Light Gaming, General Usage
Monitor Resolution: 1920x1080 is what i'm looking for, and i need a monitor
List SPECIFIC games or applications that you MUST be able to run well: Games i own/want to play on Steam (some examples): Tomb Raider, Dishonored, Skyrim, Total War: Rome 2, Alan Wake, Dead Island, PlanetSide 2, The Witcher/Witcher 2, Saints Row the 3rd, Metro 2033
Is 30FPS acceptable? 60? 120? How important is PhysX / SuperSampling / CUDA to you? 30FPS is acceptable. I'd like to have some level of anti-aliasing, PhysX and CUDA would be nice but not required
Looking to reuse any parts?: no parts to reuse (unless i'm misunderstanding this question)
When will you build?: Do you have a deadline? No deadline, I will build when I have a build that I feel good about
Will you be overclocking?: Yes (if the CPU in the build is unlocked)

Other Notes: I can get Windows 7 (32 bit/64 bit) or Windows 8 (32 bit/64 bit) for free from the college of engineering site at my university, so no need to add that to the costs. (You can however tell me which you would recommend me using though).
It's slightly over $900, but this should do you for a long time:

PCPartPicker part list / Price breakdown by merchant / Benchmarks

CPU: Intel Core i5-3570K 3.4GHz Quad-Core Processor ($219.99 @ Amazon)
CPU Cooler: Cooler Master Hyper 212 EVO 82.9 CFM Sleeve Bearing CPU Cooler ($29.98 @ Outlet PC)
Motherboard: MSI Z77A-G45 ATX LGA1155 Motherboard ($113.98 @ SuperBiiz)
Memory: G.Skill Ares Series 8GB (2 x 4GB) DDR3-1600 Memory ($57.99 @ Newegg)
Storage: Western Digital Caviar Blue 1TB 3.5" 7200RPM Internal Hard Drive ($59.98 @ Outlet PC)
Video Card: Sapphire Radeon HD 7950 3GB Video Card ($199.99 @ Newegg)
Case: NZXT Source 210 (Black) ATX Mid Tower Case ($29.99 @ Newegg)
Power Supply: Antec Basiq Plus 550W 80 PLUS Certified ATX12V Power Supply ($59.98 @ Outlet PC)
Operating System: Microsoft Windows 8 (OEM) (64-bit) (Purchased For $0.00)
Monitor: Asus VS229H-P 21.5" Monitor ($143.99 @ Amazon)
Total: $915.87
(Prices include shipping, taxes, and discounts when available.)
(Generated by PCPartPicker 2013-09-15 03:37 EDT-0400)

No SSD unfortunately but you could always add one later - I'd also go for Windows 8 for DirectX 11.1/11.2 support. I've not included a keyboard/mouse or speakers as they're usually a choice for you as to which you like for feel/comfort, but if necessary you can get a combo keyboard and mouse for a pittance these days.
 
Had to up my voltage to 1.325 for it to be stable. Just ran 10 passes on Intel Burn Test on maximum on 10 runs. I don't feel like doing prime95. 4670k 4.6 ghz on air is not bad. The max temp reached 80.

Now I need to overclock my MSI 760 gtx.
 
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