My next guess is that your thermal paste turned to thermal crust.
Dunno what your particular warranty is on that card(whether or not taking the cooler off voids i mean) but probably worth checking that out.
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"I need a New PC!" 2013 Part 2. Haswell = #IntelnoTIM, but free online. READ THE OP.
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My next guess is that your thermal paste turned to thermal crust.
Dunno what your particular warranty is on that card(whether or not taking the cooler off voids i mean) but probably worth checking that out.
Hmmm, i don't know about that. Like i said, i am not having a problem with cooling. My card stays very cool. I'm just wondering why my card isn't stable with the first over clock settings that i got when the card was brand new.
With regards to instability, what are your symptoms, artifacting?
Assuming your hardware is fine then I would point to drivers.
scoobs
Member
So I'm getting 0 response from my PSU, no lights on the mobo, no fans, nothing. Even with everything unplugged its lifeless. Worked w/ my last build... could it have just died?
Here's the PSU I'm using that now seems dead as a doorknob: http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16817371026
My build is
i7 4770k
gtx770
MSI Z87-G45 Gaming LGA 1150 Intel
G.SKILL Ripjaws X Series 16GB (2 x 8GB) 240-Pin DDR3 SDRAM DDR3 1600
Here's the PSU I'm using that now seems dead as a doorknob: http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16817371026
My build is
i7 4770k
gtx770
MSI Z87-G45 Gaming LGA 1150 Intel
G.SKILL Ripjaws X Series 16GB (2 x 8GB) 240-Pin DDR3 SDRAM DDR3 1600
Skyfireblaze
Member
That doesn't necessarily means the PSU is fried, try to start the mobo outside the case to make sure nothing is shorting and press the main ATX und CPU power connector down. I had some cases already where they were both visibly well seated yet still needed a slight push :/
EDIT: Also to make sure the power-button of your case isn't wonky, take a flat-head screwdriver and cross the two PWR-BTN pins on your mobo and see if it turns on like this.
If all fails you can also try the PSU Jumpstart test to see if it's broken but to me personally that test seems iffy :/
scoobs
Member
Well the fact that the PSU won't show any life even when its just plugged into the wall and nothing else makes me think that won't fix the issue. And i've tried pushing everything in tighter to no avail
Skyfireblaze
Member
Alright that's concerning yeah
As said in my edit you could try the jumpstart test though better wait for someone to reply here that already has experience with it.Sectorseven
Member
Is there a reset button on it or something? Maybe you tripped some sort of safety mechanism when you unplugged it.
scoobs
Member
nah, nothing like that. Going to test a new PSU out tomorrow and see what that gets me. Lucky i have an adequate laptop to tide me over.
Shit, seems like my PSU isn't confirmed to be compatible with the new haswell CPUs. Might have fucked it up and fried it i guess... possibly? I could see the lower power state of haswell fucking w/ my old PSU, not sure if it would fry it though.
When i'm running heaven benchmark it crashes.
They are the same.
Unknown One
Member
Dial down the core clock. That's what I did.
I'm using the Nopo Choc mini with mx cherry red switches. I love it! First time owning a keyboard without a num-pad and good riddance, ill never go back to a keyboard with numpad.
They keys are very responsive, and the compact design looks really slick. My best friend tried talking me out of buying it, but after i received it he wound up buying one too lol.
Dreams-Visions
Member
I have. No reviews for it yet. Unless there are some personal recommendations out there, it's not a consideration until I see some reviews.
I have not. I'll do that now if that's a recommendation for the brand.
Sutton Dagger
Member
So I bought that Asus Xonar DG sound card, and I'm still having a problem. I have a pair of these Tritton AX360 headphones which comes with this little 'digital decoder' and I'm trying to use headphones through the optical cable. For some reason it's not working. The analogue cables work fine. Any ideas.
Not a bad list - there is something though. You've picked a K processor and Z87 motherboard but said no to overclocking, so that's a bit of a waste. You could either:Hey PCGAF. Looking to build my first gaming PC and would like some input on parts. I stuck pretty close to the $800 build in the latest built sheet. Here is what I've got so far:
http://pcpartpicker.com/p/1GWvU
Any help at all is appreciated.
- Decide to overclock - you could add a CM Hyper 212 Evo cooler for $30 and it really is as simple as changing a few BIOS values for free performance.
- Swap out your processor and motherboard. In the build below I've given you a H87 board and an i7 processor instead of an i5 since your main uses are emulation and 3D/Maya stuff.
http://pcpartpicker.com/p/1H2uI
my new build
Bitfenix Prodigy M (black)
Bitfenix Recon (fans controller)
2 x Corsair Air Series AF120 Quiet Edition
Asus Maximus Gene VI
Intel I7 4770k
Zalman CNPS 9900 Max (cpu cooler)
EVGA GTX 660ti OC 2GB
Corsair CX600 Modular (psu)
Corsair Vengeance Pro 16GB (2x8)
2 x SSD Samsung 840 Pro 256GB (raid 0 for bandwith)
Crucial M4 256GB mSATA
Bitfenix Prodigy M (black)
Bitfenix Recon (fans controller)
2 x Corsair Air Series AF120 Quiet Edition
Asus Maximus Gene VI
Intel I7 4770k
Zalman CNPS 9900 Max (cpu cooler)
EVGA GTX 660ti OC 2GB
Corsair CX600 Modular (psu)
Corsair Vengeance Pro 16GB (2x8)
2 x SSD Samsung 840 Pro 256GB (raid 0 for bandwith)
Crucial M4 256GB mSATA
ThoseDeafMutes
Member
Ugggg
On my previous PC I had to revert to previous drivers to prevent my 560 Ti from blowing itself up. I figured that by now, surely the latest drivers would have fixed the problems. I recall people saying that they were fixed in fact. Since I fit the GPU in this PC, I started noticing some symptoms, like occasional system lockups for a second or two, but I thought maybe it was just some other problem. Then today the out of control cursor glitches started happening while playing HoI3, and the lockups became extremely frequent, every 30 seconds or so. Had to reboot to "fix", but I'm expecting it back before too long anyway, like last time.
Are the drivers still fucked? Is my GPU just permanently fucked because of them, or is it just permanently fucked with drivers beyond a certain date? I can't think of a way to roll back because this computer has never had any other drivers on it for video cards, so I can't use the same trick to revert I did on the old system.
On my previous PC I had to revert to previous drivers to prevent my 560 Ti from blowing itself up. I figured that by now, surely the latest drivers would have fixed the problems. I recall people saying that they were fixed in fact. Since I fit the GPU in this PC, I started noticing some symptoms, like occasional system lockups for a second or two, but I thought maybe it was just some other problem. Then today the out of control cursor glitches started happening while playing HoI3, and the lockups became extremely frequent, every 30 seconds or so. Had to reboot to "fix", but I'm expecting it back before too long anyway, like last time.
Are the drivers still fucked? Is my GPU just permanently fucked because of them, or is it just permanently fucked with drivers beyond a certain date? I can't think of a way to roll back because this computer has never had any other drivers on it for video cards, so I can't use the same trick to revert I did on the old system.
Why not just download some older drivers and install them?
You do not need to of once installed old drivers you want to use now.
schandmann
Member
Did you already buy the parts?
If not, what's your budget and intended use? Some of these choices don't really make sense for gaming.
Either way, buying a GTX 660 Ti is the wrong move, considering the more powerful is 7950 so cheap right now. This one for example.
If you need CUDA, the GTX 760 is still the better deal.
Also, before you buy two additional 120mm fans, invest in a 200mm Bitfenix Spectre (Pro) for the bottom position. More effective and quiet, especially considering you're getting a fan controller.
Edit: Oh, and change that PSU: Minimum this, better yet this.
ThoseDeafMutes
Member
I meant just uninstall the drivers you want to get rid of in safe mode (just make sure to tick the box in the uninstaller that tells it to remove all profile data or what ever it is called) and then install the driver you want.
OminoMichelin
Member
Hey guys my friend need a notebook for about 400 euros, any suggestion?
First line of the op links the laptop thread
OminoMichelin
Member
Derp. I knew there was something like that in the OP, I should just go to bed >.>
main use...3ds max - photoshop ..2° some gaming
so the bitfenix are more quite than corsair fans? (i like the black - red colours of the corsairs) with the case they give me already 2 spectre 120 mm......if is just for the size i could get the 200 from corsair right?
the gpu is the only thing that im carrying from an old rig...ill think to upgrade later with something bigger than 660ti or 760 and yeah i need cuda....for 3ds...till they will implement opencl nvidia is the only way to go
is this psu this shitty?!
i bought already ssd cpu mainboard and case
schandmann
Member
Ah, alright. For that stuff, i7 plus 16GB RAM is a good idea.
The Spectre fans are by no means bad fans. If you plan on hooking them up to a fan controller, there's really no reason why they couldn't be quiet. Corsair doesn't do 200mm fans, but the Spectre 200mm is a really good fan for the price. I had one in my Prodigy and it does the job well. Big fans just move a lot of air at low rpm.
That Zalman cooler is total overkill. A Corsair H60 (make sure it's the newest revision!) would do great job at ~$50. Mount a 200mm fan as the bottom intake, one of the 120mm Spectres as top exhaust and the H60's radiator at the back and you've got a cool and quiet setup.
The PSU is not shitty, but there's better alternatives for the price. (Like the Antec BP550.) If you want to spend more, the Seasonic G-550 is 80 Plus gold certified and really quiet.
Where are you and where are you buying from?
Original Famous Ray
Member
Noobish question but I must ask. How much thermal paste do you put on the cpu before putting in a heatsink? I will put together my new build later this week and I watched a nice video on how to install the Hyper 212 evo. I've always used the heaksink that came with a cpu so this will be new for me. The guy in the video used the "line method" whatever that is (hard to tell from the low res video). The last time I put thermal paste was a few years ago when I had temp issues and I just put a super thin layer of paste on the cpu and used a card to spread it out as thinly and evenly as I could. No problems when I did that but I read thats not the best way to do it.
Do I just put a small pea shaped ball of paste and rest the headsink and thats that? I want to get this right the first time. Just looking for basic advice. I'll be using arctic silver 5 as my paste instead of the one that came with the hyper 212. Thanks in advance for any advice.
Do I just put a small pea shaped ball of paste and rest the headsink and thats that? I want to get this right the first time. Just looking for basic advice. I'll be using arctic silver 5 as my paste instead of the one that came with the hyper 212. Thanks in advance for any advice.
Don't use a whole lot. The EVO has a flat base, so generally just put a smallish amount on the center of the CPU. Somewhere between the size of a grain of rice and a pea is probably sufficient.
scoobs
Member
The 800D is a god send. Never been so impressed with build quality, space, air flow... its approaching perfect.
It's not that great a PSU
Sectorseven
Member
My existing case has some USB 2.0 ports on the front. If I swap in a new mobo with USB 3.0 and run a cable to the front ports, will they be 3.0 speed or remain 2.0?
Felix Lighter
Member
They will stay 2. 3.0 ports are blue and have extra pins.
Sectorseven
Member
Is there a way to swap them out or am I better off just getting a new case?
Why change case just for USB3 though. It's nothing special really. I guess there could be some equipment that might benefit from it, but really getting a case for just front USB3 is crazy. You will have 4+ in the back. If your case is old and crap though, then yeah get a new case.
It's not one I've heard a lot about but from reviews it seems an OK model.
Felix Lighter
Member
Alright, thanks. I just always see it hovering near the lowest priced HD7950s available, it has a nice little factory OC and I just wanted to make sure there was no reason to avoid it. Right now it's $180 after rebate, which seems like a crazy deal.
HotHamWater
Member
Has anything changed with monitors since the OP was made? I'm looking for a friend and have no idea whats considered good at the minute. It'll mainly be used for games, stuff like Battlefield and DayZ. If anyone has any recommendations, they'd be appreciated.
Sectorseven
Member
Case is nice. I just use those front ports all the time for memory sticks and figure eventually I'll be getting 3.0 sticks. The ones in the back are kind of a pain to get to.
Not really sure if I should be upgrading or spending the money and going all out.
I usually go like five years between builds and that was my intention again with this upcoming one.
What monitor you get really depends on a few factors.
What kind of color quality do you want?
What kind of resolution are you aim do you aim to play at?
Do you need lightboost or high refresh rates?
AMD cards seem to be dropping in price at suppliers with new cards on the way (which means AMD may be rebating suppliers). Here in the UK as an example I've seen some suppliers doing preliminary pricing on the 7970 at around £212 which means you could buy them for about £230. Dirt cheap compared to their usual price.
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