Finaika
Member
Sweet.
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"I need a New PC!" 2013 Part 2. Haswell = #IntelnoTIM, but free online. READ THE OP.
- Thread starter Hazaro
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Sweet.
There's room for both.
Interfectum
Member
Get a 360 controller and a long ass HDMI cable (depending...) and you can still have a console style experience on vastly superior hardware and content delivery system.
Kydd BlaZe
Member
Yeah, I'm still picking up a PS4 this fall, and may get an Xbox One sometime next year. I'd hate to miss out on any console exclusives.
That's the plan. My PC is going to be hooked up to my 50 inch LCD in my entertainment set up. Definitely grabbing a 360 contoller for the PC, and once the Xbox One controllers are available I'll switch over to that.
Spiritreaver
Member
You'll never want to go back! Trust me, I've been playing Injustice and the lack of anti aliasing for the sake of 60 fps makes me sad.
Have fun~!
unknownhero
Member
it's the 4770k and I found it on newegg.
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16819116501
okay, how the fuck did that happen, i could have sworn it said 4770k. anyways, updated the list.
No.. you have the 3770K. Make sure to keep this distinction right or you will end up buying a motherboard that won't work with your CPU.
SneakyStephan
Banned
Planetside 2 is not a very gpu demanding game, all it needs is a super high clocked high end intel cpu.
A 6870 will be fine to play on high @45-60 fps with most of the bells and whistles.
unknownhero
Member
why a GTX760?
That's how almost all UE3 games are.
Check out the OP. Theres a very good build for the $800# range.
The GT630 is not a gaming card, with a budget of $875you might be able to squeeze a 760 into it.
Fill out the questions in the OP
A couple of days ago I managed to find a suitable vise for delidding my 4670k: so I decided it was time to just get it over with.
First I practiced on an old P4 northwood I found in my personal PC scapyard, to get a bit of a feel for it:
It took quite a few hits to get the lid to pop off, probably because I was a bit too soft on it at first. After a while I gave it a good whack and the PCB went airborne and landed directly onto the pins, messing up a row or 2 of them
. However the CPU did actually work after I spent 5 minutes bending everything back, so I was pleased.
Today I opened up my main rig to take out the 4670k. But I was somewhat careless while removing the cpu and it slipped from my fingers, and of course the cpu just had to land directly onto the mobo's socket pins, bending about 3 or 4 of them pretty badly.. After cursing for a bit and removing the mobo from my case I was able to bend them back with some patience and a tiny screwdriver though. The PC booted fine after that.
So I proceded further: first I removed the cpu retention bracket and installed the direct to die mounting parts.
After that I decided to finally take care of the CPU.
I had to cpu attached to the vise with some electrical tape this time, to prevent it from being launched. Giving the CPU 3 good whacks made it pop of nicely, without anything getting thrown around this time:
A quick removal of (most) glue and thermal paste with nailpolish remover resulted in this:
I put the cpu back into the socket and secured it with electrical tape to provide a bit of retention.
Then I put everything back in the case. I used 4 pieces of 0.5mm thickness thermal pad to make sure the cooler goes on straight. The TIM used is promilatech PK1.
After all of this I put the supremacy back onto the cpu, making sure the pressure was evenly divided.
After getting all cables and ram back into the system I pushed to power button on the mobo, and to my suprise the PC booted immediately, I didn't even have to mess around with the mounting pressure.
When windows had booted up I decided to test my settings for an earlier 4.7GHz overclock, which had resulted in average temps of >90°C in prime 95 small fft. However this time core temps stayed around the 70°C mark, which gives a ~20°C improvement, much better than I expected.
All in all I'm pretty happy with the results of delidding so far, and using the vise method the process was actually quite simple.
First I practiced on an old P4 northwood I found in my personal PC scapyard, to get a bit of a feel for it:
It took quite a few hits to get the lid to pop off, probably because I was a bit too soft on it at first. After a while I gave it a good whack and the PCB went airborne and landed directly onto the pins, messing up a row or 2 of them
. However the CPU did actually work after I spent 5 minutes bending everything back, so I was pleased. Today I opened up my main rig to take out the 4670k. But I was somewhat careless while removing the cpu and it slipped from my fingers, and of course the cpu just had to land directly onto the mobo's socket pins, bending about 3 or 4 of them pretty badly.. After cursing for a bit and removing the mobo from my case I was able to bend them back with some patience and a tiny screwdriver though. The PC booted fine after that.
So I proceded further: first I removed the cpu retention bracket and installed the direct to die mounting parts.
After that I decided to finally take care of the CPU.
I had to cpu attached to the vise with some electrical tape this time, to prevent it from being launched. Giving the CPU 3 good whacks made it pop of nicely, without anything getting thrown around this time:
A quick removal of (most) glue and thermal paste with nailpolish remover resulted in this:
I put the cpu back into the socket and secured it with electrical tape to provide a bit of retention.
Then I put everything back in the case. I used 4 pieces of 0.5mm thickness thermal pad to make sure the cooler goes on straight. The TIM used is promilatech PK1.
After all of this I put the supremacy back onto the cpu, making sure the pressure was evenly divided.
After getting all cables and ram back into the system I pushed to power button on the mobo, and to my suprise the PC booted immediately, I didn't even have to mess around with the mounting pressure.
When windows had booted up I decided to test my settings for an earlier 4.7GHz overclock, which had resulted in average temps of >90°C in prime 95 small fft. However this time core temps stayed around the 70°C mark, which gives a ~20°C improvement, much better than I expected.
All in all I'm pretty happy with the results of delidding so far, and using the vise method the process was actually quite simple.
Thanks.
And yeah I got their mounting kit. It's nothing crazy, but for 4 it saves you the trouble of having to modify the standard mounting screws to account for the missing heatspreader.
Future PhaZe
Member
terribad in all shooters confirmed
Oh that's a good point, I should buy a 360 wireless controller for Windows if I do an SFF PC build.
Future PhaZe
Member
Kydd BlaZe
Member
Lol oh I know I'm gonna get rocked in the PC competitive multiplayer scene. Luckily I'll still have a PS4 to scratch that itch lol. I probably won't play too much multiplayer on the PC because I know I suck balls with kb&m, and I'll be going up against kb&m gods with a damn controller, lulz.
It starts hard, but you get the hang of it.
Kydd BlaZe
Member
I appreciate the precision that the mouse provides, but I can just never get the hang of controlling the character's movement with WASD. It just feels...wrong to me, idk. I guess I'm just so used to analog input,
Quoting for (if lucky) answers. =)
I read that Asus Z87-A keeps USB on after shutting down. Maybe disabling the USB charger+ function resolves this issue.
But I'm still interested to know about the MSI Z87-G45.
Future PhaZe
Member
Does the PC version of say BF3 contain the same sort of magnetism that console players get should they plug in a 360 pad?
Terbinator
Member
Aim assist? No, AFAIK.
Got a bit of an issue with my rig and a microphone.
Trying to hook one up for some voice chat and my PC isn't having any of it. Won't even recognise one exists. Tried plugging it into the jack at the front of my case and tried it on all the jacks at the rear on the motherboard, but no dice.
One thing that may or may not be key is that I don't have a sound card installed. I was advised it was an unnecessary expense when I built my rig and so I don't have one. Do I in order to voice chat? Or should I be able to run a mic from the motherboard?
Tried some Googling but not having much luck.
Trying to hook one up for some voice chat and my PC isn't having any of it. Won't even recognise one exists. Tried plugging it into the jack at the front of my case and tried it on all the jacks at the rear on the motherboard, but no dice.
One thing that may or may not be key is that I don't have a sound card installed. I was advised it was an unnecessary expense when I built my rig and so I don't have one. Do I in order to voice chat? Or should I be able to run a mic from the motherboard?
Tried some Googling but not having much luck.
Are you talking about auto aim? If so no
I was worried about this too... but I'm totally destroying folks in PC BF3 Team DM. The feeling of the precise, assist-free aiming is amazing.
Kydd BlaZe
Member
Wait, are you using a controller?
No, kb&m. I was a console only player for the last 10+ years. I found the kb&m really easy to learn.
Kydd BlaZe
Member
Oh ok. Hopefully I'll get used to it after a while.
BRUTALBOWN
Banned
I bought Gigabyte and you get a mouse mat and a pack of playing cards!! woo hoo
Head of Vengarl
Banned
Is there any way to just buy a Windows 7 key without having to purchase a disk? I really don't want to give Best Buy any more business than I have to (if they even have it I hear they mostly push Windows 8 now) and I don't want to have to order a disk online and wait for it to arrive.
Hmm... I might have a spare if you're not sketched out by that.
EDIT: I do indeed have a spare. PM me if you want.
Osiris
I permanently banned my 6 year old daughter from using the PS4 for mistakenly sending grief reports as it's too hard to watch or talk to her
Build done!
Parts arrived yesterday, building into the R4 was a dream, except for one fact that is easily missed. The Corsair H90, despite having a "140mm" radiator won't fit properly in the rear exhaust fan spot, the extra depth of the radiator doesn't allow it to fit properly, it could be placed there upside down, with the tubing to the top, but this is less than ideal as this leads the very top of the radiator, where any air would eventually settle, to be the feed into the tubing, so air would continue to circulate. I ended up using the top exhaust rather than the rear exhaust just to be safe.
As far as the Haswell chip lottery goes, how does 4.2Ghz at 1.10v sound? =D
AIDA64 stress test tops out at 59 degrees C, and that with both Noctuas using the Low Noise Adapters =D
Tried at 4.5Ghz, could do that on 1.2v but the temps would have meant sacrificing the silence I want so 4.2Ghz and silent is plenty good enough for my needs.
My old PC (i5-750 & AMD 7750) could manage 40 frames per second in Planetside 2 with everything on medium and no AA, my new build does everything on high/ultra with 4xAA at 90 frames per second. (sorry mkenyon!)
The MSI GTX 760 Twin Frozr really is silent too,I mean really silent, very impressed!
Parts arrived yesterday, building into the R4 was a dream, except for one fact that is easily missed. The Corsair H90, despite having a "140mm" radiator won't fit properly in the rear exhaust fan spot, the extra depth of the radiator doesn't allow it to fit properly, it could be placed there upside down, with the tubing to the top, but this is less than ideal as this leads the very top of the radiator, where any air would eventually settle, to be the feed into the tubing, so air would continue to circulate. I ended up using the top exhaust rather than the rear exhaust just to be safe.
As far as the Haswell chip lottery goes, how does 4.2Ghz at 1.10v sound? =D
AIDA64 stress test tops out at 59 degrees C, and that with both Noctuas using the Low Noise Adapters =D
Tried at 4.5Ghz, could do that on 1.2v but the temps would have meant sacrificing the silence I want so 4.2Ghz and silent is plenty good enough for my needs.
My old PC (i5-750 & AMD 7750) could manage 40 frames per second in Planetside 2 with everything on medium and no AA, my new build does everything on high/ultra with 4xAA at 90 frames per second. (sorry mkenyon!
)The MSI GTX 760 Twin Frozr really is silent too,I mean really silent, very impressed!
You'd probably have to sacrifice on the settings if you're playing a demanding game.
Its not pointless, you just have to figure out what your priorities are.
Done with my build and installing windows now. Quick question ... When I was installing the 212 evo, I fucked up and dropped too much paste. I swabbed it off with some q-tips but I only used 70% isopropyl to remove what was left.
My bios says that the CPU (Haswell) is sitting around the 45C mark when I started it up. My room is a little warmer than the other rooms in my house but should I be worried and try buying something to clean the CPU and try again?
My bios says that the CPU (Haswell) is sitting around the 45C mark when I started it up. My room is a little warmer than the other rooms in my house but should I be worried and try buying something to clean the CPU and try again?
I asked this in the mechanical keyboard thread but figured I would give it a shot here too. Has anyone had experience switching from Cherry Blue to Cherry Red switches?
I am currently using a Rosewill KB with Cherry Blue switches and am getting a Corsair K70 for my new build but they only come with Cherry Red switches right now. I really like the Blues and I use my computer for work about the same amount as gaming so I am concerned about switching. I picked up a sample switch kit from WASD keyboards but it is pretty hard to gauge the change with just one switch. If anyone has switched and has opinions I would love to here them.
I am currently using a Rosewill KB with Cherry Blue switches and am getting a Corsair K70 for my new build but they only come with Cherry Red switches right now. I really like the Blues and I use my computer for work about the same amount as gaming so I am concerned about switching. I picked up a sample switch kit from WASD keyboards but it is pretty hard to gauge the change with just one switch. If anyone has switched and has opinions I would love to here them.
Idle doesn't mean much. If you cleaned it off and reapplied it correctly, it's probably fine. Run a stress test and you'll have something more useful to go from.
Roland1979
Junior Member
I don't know if it's one of those things that's popular to hate on or there's a base to it (probably is), and i can't speak about build quality. But i read almost nothing but good things about it. If the sensor is so bad then why does it get reported and tested often as good. In other words what is bad about it? And saying things like "Sensei is king" (even though it might be good) makes me a little uncomfortable. There are probably many good mice out there. Maybe it is the best, but i would like it see backed up by facts if possible.
Razer DeathAdder 2013 Gaming Mouse test
Seems there's a updated version of the DeathAdder, know idea if they made any real improvements.
Lion Heart
Banned
I ended up getting a Razer Mamba used instead of the Sensei or Deathadder.
Seriously, i'll give it some time to adjust but I'm worried that I can't adjust. I guess thats what happens when you are use to a design for a decade. It feels so foreign, I can't seem to get the sensitivity right and the weight is much different than my G500. I miss being able to toggle scroll speeds and just wiz down web pages. Also the back and forward buttons aren't as good as the G500.
I made another mistake by installing the drivers before plugging in the mouse, it doesn't really show up in the hardware device list, instead its just generic HID controller. For those who own this mouse, how do you know what firmware its on because I downloaded 1.13 and in the config settings it shows 1.13 but I suspect its just reading the installer and not the actual mouse firmware.
And lastly, is it better to use max dpi with a lower windows sensitivity or medium and medium? I have no idea how some people use anything over 4k.
Seriously, i'll give it some time to adjust but I'm worried that I can't adjust. I guess thats what happens when you are use to a design for a decade. It feels so foreign, I can't seem to get the sensitivity right and the weight is much different than my G500. I miss being able to toggle scroll speeds and just wiz down web pages. Also the back and forward buttons aren't as good as the G500.
I made another mistake by installing the drivers before plugging in the mouse, it doesn't really show up in the hardware device list, instead its just generic HID controller. For those who own this mouse, how do you know what firmware its on because I downloaded 1.13 and in the config settings it shows 1.13 but I suspect its just reading the installer and not the actual mouse firmware.
And lastly, is it better to use max dpi with a lower windows sensitivity or medium and medium? I have no idea how some people use anything over 4k.
New monitor has a stuck (bright green) pixel.
Anybody have any success getting rid of one of these? All the solutions I'm reading for them sound like wacky folk remedies. I guess I'll run a seizure video overnight to see if that does anything.
Anybody have any success getting rid of one of these? All the solutions I'm reading for them sound like wacky folk remedies. I guess I'll run a seizure video overnight to see if that does anything.
I don't know what you can use to monitor your CPU temperature while in-game, but I usually just leave HWMonitor up while playing for a bit and check the max temp afterward, or Alt-Tab.
Yea. This, regardless of what monitoring app you use. I do the same with GPU-Z for GPU temps.
Dave_6
Member
That will work; just something that will show me what it is running at.
Roland1979
Junior Member
Never change Windows sensitivity. From what i understand it's not linear but exponential, making it totally unreliable. leave it at default. what should be the sixth notch. Also make sure that "Enhance pointer precision" is OFF. So use higher DPI settings if necessary.
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