The Steamworks games do! Ubisoft never do Steam key. Unless Amazon get them specially made.You know what sucks, the games you get for buying GPU's are never Steam keys...
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"I need a New PC!" 2013 Part 2. Haswell = #IntelnoTIM, but free online. READ THE OP.
- Thread starter Hazaro
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I would try to get some 1.5v stuff like this http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16820313266 or this http://us.ncix.com/products/?usaffiliateid=1000031504&sku=74756&vpn=PVI38G160C9K&manufacture=Patriot
Gaming Truth
Member
So, fun story. I ordered my stuff from NewEgg, Amazon, and locally picked up from Micro Center. The long pole item was the motherboard, and it's from NewEgg, so for that order, I specifically asked to ship it 3-day (instead of whatever-speed).
Everything else arrives (including RAM, that also came from NewEgg) and I'm scratching my head, wondering where the motherboard and GPU are. I look up the invoice and it claims that it was delivered on a Tuesday (the RAM arrived from NewEgg on Thursday).
I call them up and their bastard automated system ("press 1 for an operator, press 2 for automated", but guess what, their numbers are switched backwards) and finally get through. Their response was basically "oh well" and "yeah, you can dispute that. It usually takes 7-10 business days (2 weeks). I ask if there's a faster resolution and she's like "yeah, just order it again." Really? Just drop another $k like that. I ask for a refund and stew for a bit. However, the MB isn't sold in very many other places, so I go order it again and the deals are gone. I call them up and after what seems like a half hour of "I just want what I ordered before", the operator tells me she'll tack on the bonus RAM from the MB when I order again.
It's shipped out and due to arrive today. Odds are, there's no RAM in my shipment (there's none on the invoice). Not only that, it's not the only deal that expired between my initial order and my re-order. However, when you have an angry lady speaking Spanglish really fast at you and you're only making her madder when you repeat what she says to be sure she said "I will include it in your order" vs. "I will fuck with your order", you tend to let things go.
My sad NewEgg story. =(
You know what sucks, the games you get for buying GPU's are never Steam keys...
Most of AMD's bundle were. Look like we'll have a few steamwork titles in the next one too.
on the subject, I'm dying for news on the 9970.
Piercedveil
Member
All right, cool. I'll go with the first one then. Thanks a lot.
could you post an update of how it went And how far you could push it?
Also Owner of a 3770 non k and kind of interested in this .
Seems to be fairly solid stuff from the looks of it.
Piercedveil
Member
Everything has been ordered thanks again.
thanks again.CreepingFear
Member
For fun, I was watching this dude on youtube take older computers and fix and update them. So, I decided to browse my local craig's list for computers for sale. It amazes me how many people try to sell their 4-5 year old or older computers for way more than they are worth. Who the fuck buys that shit? I've never been lucky enough to find great deals or steals @ garage sales or craig's list.
If you're not short on money and need lots of compute-performance.
http://www.anandtech.com/show/7166/nvidia-announces-quadro-k6000
http://nvidianews.nvidia.com/Releases/NVIDIA-Unveils-New-Flagship-GPU-for-Visual-Computing-9e3.aspx
http://www.anandtech.com/show/7166/nvidia-announces-quadro-k6000
http://nvidianews.nvidia.com/Releases/NVIDIA-Unveils-New-Flagship-GPU-for-Visual-Computing-9e3.aspx
It's commonplace to try and gouge on CL. You can generally message the person and work them way down on price.
It this case better and compatible with my build? http://www.ncix.ca/products/?sku=66063&promoid=1311
Gotta ask a probably stupid question:
Im gonna instal W7 on my new SSD. Im gonna take out this HDD for the install.
Question is, when Im done and I plug back the old HDD (wich also has W7) Im gonna have any compatiblity problem? Should I first uninstall W7 on the older HDD or Ill be able to just dual boot from one to another disk without any problem?
Im gonna instal W7 on my new SSD. Im gonna take out this HDD for the install.
Question is, when Im done and I plug back the old HDD (wich also has W7) Im gonna have any compatiblity problem? Should I first uninstall W7 on the older HDD or Ill be able to just dual boot from one to another disk without any problem?
It should be fine as long as you have the SSD higher up than the HDD in the BIOS boot order.
It's a good case and will work perfectly fine.
Okay, one last update, then I'll probably go quiet for a long while. I'm the guy whom asked for advice on overclocking my 3.4ghz Phenom 2 x4 awhile back.
Well, I finally broke down and purchased the following GPU.
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16814202025
It seems like a good product, and thats the absolute best price I can find. Hopefully I didn't err in ordering it before asking everyone's opinion on the matter.
Well, I finally broke down and purchased the following GPU.
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16814202025
It seems like a good product, and thats the absolute best price I can find. Hopefully I didn't err in ordering it before asking everyone's opinion on the matter.
If you're from the US, that's the best option. Since that sale doesn't apply to Canada, the 760 4GB would be better.
For $170 it's a good card.
Hello I'm looking to build a new pc my old one is five years old and I am looking to build ground up switching from AMD to Intel. I live in Canada. I looked at Hazaro's excellent best overall build and was wondering if this would be acceptable to play current gen games on high settings and next gen if possible (I'm getting a ps4) I am looking to spend between 1000-1200 lower the better. I have seen lots of people recommending the ssd drives, and I'm pretty unfimiliar and was wondering why this is a good choice. I appreciate any insight and help you guys can offer. Thanks and have a nice day .
.Yeah the guy I'm building for said I could have it for throwing him a mixamp, and it's a Uplay game...Splinter Cell Blacklist Deluxe and Conviction combo.
Will do.
Hello I'm looking to build a new pc my old one is five years old and I am looking to build ground up switching from AMD to Intel. I live in Canada. I looked at Hazaro's excellent best overall build and was wondering if this would be acceptable to play current gen games on high settings and next gen if possible (I'm getting a ps4) I am looking to spend between 1000-1200 lower the better. I have seen lots of people recommending the ssd drives, and I'm pretty unfimiliar and was wondering why this is a good choice. I appreciate any insight and help you guys can offer. Thanks and have a nice day
Yo!
Yeah the excellent build is pretty fucking excellent. SSDs just make your OS extremely fast, like so damn fast. You need to experience one to see just how fast. Start up, shut down, searching for stuff, all just lightning quick. Using PCP this is what I'd target in Canada, good balanced build with money to spare if you say wanted to go for a modular PSU
PCPartPicker part list / Price breakdown by merchant / Benchmarks
CPU: Intel Core i5-3570K 3.4GHz Quad-Core Processor ($229.99 @ Amazon Canada)
CPU Cooler: Cooler Master Hyper 212 Plus 76.8 CFM Sleeve Bearing CPU Cooler ($26.46 @ DirectCanada)
Motherboard: Asus P8Z77-V LK ATX LGA1155 Motherboard ($119.99 @ Canada Computers)
Memory: Mushkin Silverline 8GB (2 x 4GB) DDR3-1600 Memory ($67.98 @ NCIX)
Storage: Samsung 840 Series 250GB 2.5" Solid State Disk ($176.98 @ Newegg Canada)
Storage: Western Digital Caviar Blue 1TB 3.5" 7200RPM Internal Hard Drive ($67.75 @ Vuugo)
Video Card: EVGA GeForce GTX 760 2GB Video Card ($259.99 @ Memory Express)
Case: Fractal Design Define R4 (Black Pearl) ATX Mid Tower Case ($109.99 @ Memory Express)
Power Supply: XFX 550W 80 PLUS Bronze Certified ATX12V / EPS12V Power Supply ($47.99 @ NCIX)
Total: $1107.12
(Prices include shipping, taxes, and discounts when available.)
(Generated by PCPartPicker 2013-07-23 18:58 EDT-0400)
Just a starter rough guide to what to look for. You could go for a cheaper case if you wanted too, something like a Bitfenix Shinobi would save $40.
Thanks for the quick response I will be deffinitly get an ssd then
stoked to see how that works and I appreciate the build I think that's an excellent blueprint! I will keep ya posted because I just gotta get everything in order. Ill get ya back on steam sometime in the future!Take care
I never buy AMD so I wouldn't know. I find their drivers and entire catalyst install system incredibly buggy and shitty. Not only that 9 times out of 10 equivalent card-for-equivalent-card Nvidia destroys them in performance. So that "AMD will not settle for anything but the best" is kind of funny ironically. I have a old AMD Radeon HD HIS 4670 1GB AGP (best AGP GPU ever made!) card in my Retro rig. And I HATE the driver issues especially for legacy cards.
But I wish Nvidia would start adopting a Steamworks promo system. My 3rd Titan I added to my beast rig yesterday didn't come with any promo though...
Thanks for the quick response I will be deffinitly get an ssd then
Take care
Don't worry about doing that, it was just a few
What alternate universe is this? Also, three Titans. Why?
Thanks!
I will buy a new rig next month, I have in mind in the following:
Case: Cooler Master Storm Stryker
CPU: Intel Core i7-4770K
Cooler: Noctua NH-D14
MOBO: ASUS Z87-Maximus VI Hero Sockel 1150 ATX
Video Card: Gigabyte GeForce GTX780 3GB DDR5 (OC Edition)
Memory: Corsair Vengeance Pro 16GB DDR3 Kit
PSU: Corsair AX760 760 Watt ATX 2.31
SSD: Samsung SSD 840 Pro Series 256GB
HDD: WD Blue WD10EZEX 1TB
I thought about it and I think I will take a Haswell even if I can't OC as much as an Ivy or Sandy (probably I will not open it). Any reason I should change my mind?
I'm living in Berlin and this will be my first rig buy here, if there is some German GAFer reading this, could you recommend me some online store to buy? I had a look in ComputerUniverse and they have all the components, total amount around 1800-1900 (no idea of the quality of service though).
Case: Cooler Master Storm Stryker
CPU: Intel Core i7-4770K
Cooler: Noctua NH-D14
MOBO: ASUS Z87-Maximus VI Hero Sockel 1150 ATX
Video Card: Gigabyte GeForce GTX780 3GB DDR5 (OC Edition)
Memory: Corsair Vengeance Pro 16GB DDR3 Kit
PSU: Corsair AX760 760 Watt ATX 2.31
SSD: Samsung SSD 840 Pro Series 256GB
HDD: WD Blue WD10EZEX 1TB
I thought about it and I think I will take a Haswell even if I can't OC as much as an Ivy or Sandy (probably I will not open it). Any reason I should change my mind?
I'm living in Berlin and this will be my first rig buy here, if there is some German GAFer reading this, could you recommend me some online store to buy? I had a look in ComputerUniverse and they have all the components, total amount around 1800-1900 (no idea of the quality of service though).
Maybe it's just due to my card being a legacy card. But the installer rarely if ever detects anything new needs to be installed, sometimes doesn't even see my driver. I end up having to manually update everything and install the driver through .inf.
And why Tri-SLI Titans? Just because really, honestly I think I have a OCD problem with this, I missed almost the entire Steam Sale to pay for it and my final goal is Quad-SLI Titans with my Six-Core CPU OCed to 4.8 and my 32GB DDR3 RAM. But until maybe a year or two nothing is going to really push this rig at all...
it's a modem router apologies!
This is probably the best way to dual-boot, actually. You won't get a choice of which drive you want to boot from upon starting your PC, but everything should remain separate. Avoids dealing with the bootloader installed on a different drive from the OS and other fun stuff like that...
Sir Abacus
Member
I can only comment on what I see coming back because I use a HX series PSU personally but the CX models are made by CWT and are still pretty damn good for the money. I don't get the Corsair hate in this thread sometimes seeing as it's usually the easiest, nicest stuff to work with.
Except their headsets which are fucking fragile pieces of garbage.
Corsair hate?
You see how many Corsair products are in the OP?
The CX series has a high DoA rate. That's just plain fact. It's a bummer, and it's not really reflective of Corsair. Disliking a product from a company =/= company hate.
Sir Abacus
Member
Not in the OP, just the shitting on the CX gear in the last couple of pages. It uses the same high quality .jp capacitors as the BP550 gear. I haven't had one fail to post on me or come back yet and I've done maybe half a dozen. Maybe I just got really lucky.
Yeah, on paper it's fine. But it has a high DOA rate. The Antec doesn't. Simple math here.
*edit*
To give you a more reasonable and lengthy response, it's not picked because people might order a part and have a DOA PSU. If someone has already purchased a CX PSU and it's running great, that's fucking awesome, and it'll probably be a great PSU.
The thread is all about making PC building easy, and providing the most reliable and best performing parts for the dollar. The CX is a *lot* better than most PSUs, and if you don't get a DOA one, it's in fact a *good* PSU. But it's not better than the BP550 in anything outside of aesthetics. I'm the aesthetics whore, and Hazaro is the opposite, so that is often not a very weighted factor in determining parts included in the OP.
Infinite Justice
Member
That's because its DOA rate has higher, why recommend something that has a higher chance to fail than the other? the thread is to help people and not cause issues.
If they get one and it does well for them, then congratulations, but warnings will be given.
IIRC there was a discussion some time ago in this thread wondering how the BP550 is as reliable as it is since the parts in it are not as high quality as other PSUs but yet it runs like a champ.
The correct answer is...whynot?
Half and half
Member
Thanks again for the input.
I'm getting close and feel pretty confident after the advice shared in this thread.
Kind of weird route Nvidia is taking with the 700 series, I guess to make them more cost effective. The 780 (690 and Titan still kill it) is essentially a poor man''s gimped Titan (with less VRAM), the 770 is basically on par more or less with the 680 (with less VRAM), and the 760 is basically a 660Ti++. But they aren't releasing cards that are order of magnitude more efficient and powerful than the last series. So they seemed to have adopted AMD's model to a extent. If a 770Ti 4GB releases that will probably be the card to get for most
I'd like to get GAF's opinion on Windows 8 for gaming. I currently have Windows 7 but later this year I'll build a new PC. I really want to try Windows 8. I've used it before and didn't think it was that bad. I could see the complaints about the UI not working well unless you have a touch screen which I do not. But really, everyone I know who has used it complains about the UI and the ones who stuck with it said W8 really isn't all that bad. Most of the complaints I've seen revolve around a UI, which isn't as big an issue since you can come close to a traditional Windows UI.
Anyways, my question is how bad is it for PC gaming itself? Does it have major compatibility problems? I know with each new Windows sometimes you have to use compatibility mode for older games. This isn't really an issue. Most of the time. The new DX will likely be exclusive to W8 anyway. At some point I might get a touch screen too.
Thoughts? Just like to hear some opinions on it.
Anyways, my question is how bad is it for PC gaming itself? Does it have major compatibility problems? I know with each new Windows sometimes you have to use compatibility mode for older games. This isn't really an issue. Most of the time. The new DX will likely be exclusive to W8 anyway. At some point I might get a touch screen too.
Thoughts? Just like to hear some opinions on it.
I tried it, it sucks in my opinion, overall and for gaming. The only real reason to have it imo, is Pac-Man CE DX on PC.
The big issue is that people think electronics age like wine, when it's more like milk. The best they're good for is keychains. As for upgrading old hardware, I wouldn't really bother. Many of the old computers you see on craigslist will be lucky to have a PCI-E port, and you'd still have to upgrade the terribly underpowered power supply that they usually come with, especially if they're prebuilt.
Hey guys, account just got approved. Glad to join in on all the discussion.
Anyone have an opinion on the 2GB of VRAM on the GTX 760 at 1080p? Upgrading from my recently sold 7850 and I'm torn between the 7950 3GB and 2GB GTX 760.
After having some driver issues with AMD (dx9 flickering etc.) I'd really like to grab the 760 but 2GB for next-gen games is making me a bit worried. I would hate to already feel the need to upgrade when BF4 hits later this year.
Anyone have an opinion on the 2GB of VRAM on the GTX 760 at 1080p? Upgrading from my recently sold 7850 and I'm torn between the 7950 3GB and 2GB GTX 760.
After having some driver issues with AMD (dx9 flickering etc.) I'd really like to grab the 760 but 2GB for next-gen games is making me a bit worried. I would hate to already feel the need to upgrade when BF4 hits later this year.
Ran memtest 86+ for 6 passes (took about 10 hours) and it came up clean, so I don't think my RAM is the issue of my BlueScreen errors (I never actually see a BS, the PC just freezes, screen goes black, then it reboots). Pretty sure it's the CPU since the crash dumps only mention "AuthenticAMD" and the only actual AMD part in my PC is the processor (Phenom II X4 955 BE). I'll try out another processor (an Athlon II). My PC crashed while I was typing this. Thank god for Firefox's session restore, restored all the text so no retyping.
lostsupper
Banned
Have any games been announced that will use DX11.2?
My personal, unqualified opinion is that 1 GB is enough for 1080p. VRAM doesn't matter unless you really go 4k or multimonitor.
Most likely TitanFall.
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