LeeRoyBrown
Banned
You should take apart your laptop, and replace the thermal paste on the CPU and GPU if it is getting too hot, it will run like brand new.
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"I Need a New PC!" 2014 Part 1. 1080p and 60FPS is so last-gen and your 2500K is fine
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You should take apart your laptop, and replace the thermal paste on the CPU and GPU if it is getting too hot, it will run like brand new.
dapperbandit
Banned
I'd also read this. Getting to the hard disk would be easy. Getting the CPU and GPU to a stage where I could apply thermal paste would involve taking a lot of things out and I'm realy not that confident I could do it without screwing up. It would definitely be worth doing though, as I'm fairly sure the thing is full of dust as well.
There are videos on youtube detailing exactly how to remove the various components...
I might give it a shot.
I'm building a gaming PC this summer and I was wondering if there are any benefits waiting for DDR4? Seems you can reach the same speeds as DDR4 with over-clocked DDR3 memory and the latency is lower for DDR3. Also DDR4 will probably be expensive for a while. I don't really plan on doing any upgrades in the future. Though one thing I'm worried about is that current CPUs cant really take much advantage of memory speeds higher than 1600 mhz? Something about current bandwidths being too low? Not really much informed by these things. Enlighten me please!
You're mostly right here. Probably the one factor that will decide this for you is cost. DDR4 will only be available this year for Haswell-E systems, which will be overkill for most players and rather pricey (CPU/board/RAM starting at ~$800 at a guess).
The reason system memory bandwidth does nothing for games is because most of the large datasets never leave the GPU. The bus between CPU and RAM has enough bandwidth to deal with the kind of datasets that are held in main memory and worked on by the CPU. The only exception here is if you're using an integrated GPU, as with that configuration your system RAM is also your VRAM.
I'd just buy prebuilt. I tried making the cheapest i3 system w/240GB SSD I could find, $371 not including Windows or Office (both of which you can get from Software Swap although I'm not sure if that's frowned upon round these parts).
So I placed an order for my SSD this morning (Crucial M550 128GB) and I can't be more excited! However I got a quick question: when I get it I was thinking of doing a full format. Is it as easy as formatting and reinstalling on the SSD from the PC directly or should I do it from a USB?
VICTORsaurio
Member
Hey guys, this is not really gaming related but I'm a graphic designer and I'm going to start working full time on motion graphics (until now it was just something I did occasionally). The people I'm going to work with asked me about the specs I need for my desktop and I'm clueless, I know about computers and stuff but I've been out of loop about all the technical and more specific stuff for a while.
I will be working with After Effects mostly. Could you guys help me with at least some minimum specs I should ask for? Thanks!
I will be working with After Effects mostly. Could you guys help me with at least some minimum specs I should ask for? Thanks!
You don't specify, but from the capacity it seems like it'll be your system disk. I'm not quite certain I understand your question, but SSDs should be treated as you would a hard disk.
The disk will be delivered raw, but the Windows installer will create a partition scheme and format the partitions for you during install.
Prophet Steve
Member
DDR4 will probably not be beneficial (enough) for quite some time. Memory speeds higher than 1600 mhz are mostly useful if you use the integrated graphics of an AMD processor.
Nostremitus
Member
These should give you an idea regarding processors. I guess it depends whether you're using 6 or the updated Creative Cloud version. I may be wrong, but I seem to recall the CC version being better optimized for Open CL.
Being full of dust is usually the biggest contributor to laptops getting hot. I opened mine a few years ago and the airflow through the vents improves to huge degrees when you've blasted all the dust off with compressed air.
New, well applied thermal paste doesn't do any harm either.
Heh maybe I should've explained a bit better. What I mean is, I'll be using it in conjunction with my old HDD (which will be for storage) which currently has the Windows install on it. Basically I just wanted to know if it's an easy switch to make through System Recovery or if I'm going to have to boot from a USB with the install on it.
The prices for the Asus series 9 boards are out:
source: http://www.legitreviews.com/asus-intel-z97-and-h97-motherboard-prices-revealed_140439
source: http://www.legitreviews.com/asus-intel-z97-and-h97-motherboard-prices-revealed_140439
So I just got done overclocking my 4670k to 4.5 GHz with a voltage of 1.216 and man, it is even MORE snappy. Asus' high end boards (I have the Maximus VI Gene) makes the process a hell of a lot more easier. It is such a sweet motherboard 
. I will definitely buy their mobos again when I do an upgrade next time.
I did two 4 hour stress tests with RealBench 2.0 and everything seemed stable enough to me (no BSODs). Temps are around 67-70 under load with a Hyper 212 Evo in the push configuration. I even ran a session of Far Cry 3 and notice a 10-15 fps increase!
Any more tips on stress testing would be appreciated. Based Intel man.
. I will definitely buy their mobos again when I do an upgrade next time. I did two 4 hour stress tests with RealBench 2.0 and everything seemed stable enough to me (no BSODs). Temps are around 67-70 under load with a Hyper 212 Evo in the push configuration. I even ran a session of Far Cry 3 and notice a 10-15 fps increase!
Any more tips on stress testing would be appreciated. Based Intel man
.mylasthope
Neo Member
Gaf,
I'm having problems installing Windows via USB. Whenever I boot my PC with the USB stick in, the system says no signal. However, as soon as I take the USB out, I get a signal. If I then plug the USB stick back in, everything is unresponsive. I can plug in my mouse and keyboard via USB without any problems. Any suggestions on what to do? I've tried all the usb ports.
I'm having problems installing Windows via USB. Whenever I boot my PC with the USB stick in, the system says no signal. However, as soon as I take the USB out, I get a signal. If I then plug the USB stick back in, everything is unresponsive. I can plug in my mouse and keyboard via USB without any problems. Any suggestions on what to do? I've tried all the usb ports.
So I just got done overclocking my 4670k to 4.5 GHz with a voltage of 1.216 and man, it is even MORE snappy. Asus' high end boards (I have the Maximus VI Gene) makes the process a hell of a lot more easier. It is such a sweet motherboard
I did two 4 hour stress tests with RealBench 2.0 and everything seemed stable enough to me (no BSODs). Temps are around 67-70 under load with a Hyper 212 Evo in the push configuration. I even ran a session of Far Cry 3 and notice a 10-15 fps increase!
Any more tips on stress testing would be appreciated. Based Intel man
I dont know what RealBench is, try Prime95 Blend Custom with close to maximum amount of Ram.
RealBench is Asus' stress testing benchmark. I'll try Prime95 as well. How many hours should I let Prime95 run for?
Hmm OK. I think you're out of luck. The Windows system image feature will take an image of your entire system disk. Unless your HDD is only holding ~100GB, you wont be able to restore the image to your new SSD, because of insufficient space. When doing a system image restore, you cannot choose what to restore; it's all or nothing.
I'd recommend installing Windows anew on the SSD.
Yeah I figured it would go that way. Was planning on formatting this thing anyway. So I'm guessing boot from USB will be my option?
As long as you desire, keep an eye on temps. I run a couple of hours normally, then play some games as well. I test with 13GB ram on a 16GB system, make sure you click Blend, then Custom, then enter the Ram amount.
Latest version with AVX tests is here
http://www.mersenne.org/download/index.php
If you have optical media (remember that?), boot from CD/DVD/BluRay. If you have an ISO, get the Windows 7 USB download tool or Rufus and make a bootable memory stick.
Objectively Bad Opinion
Member
Why does AVX want to burn my house down?
Hah! My DVD drive died on me a couple of months ago I think, haven't been able to get it to work. Might take it out when I put the SSD in. But I do have a USB with a Windows 8 ISO on it so I'll go for that. Thanks!
Some motherboards by default will only partially initialize the USB ports so the mouse and keyboard works, in order to boot quicker. Although having other USB devices plugged in should make no difference and it should still boot, I would head into the BIOS and see if you can change this setting to a full initialization. If this still doesn't work, it suggests there is some issue with the USB stick itself. Have you tried getting to it to post and then putting the USB stick in?
Titan Z has been delayed:
there is more info here but I am not swedish so I don't know what it says: http://www.sweclockers.com/nyhet/18681-nvidia-skjuter-upp-geforce-gtx-titan-z
http://videocardz.com/50349/nvidia-geforce-gtx-titan-z-launch-postponed
there is more info here but I am not swedish so I don't know what it says: http://www.sweclockers.com/nyhet/18681-nvidia-skjuter-upp-geforce-gtx-titan-z
phxxBullet
Banned
Hey Gafs, I hope it's ok to post here, didn't want to open a new topic just for that.
So some minutes ago, my GF just downloaded a virus. I don't blame her though. She was like "hey you got an e-mail with your current phone bill, want me to open it?". I was like "sure" and a blink later, I was like "hm, actually no, I don't get bills via e-mail".
Well, was too late. She had already opened the .rtf file on the pc and clicked on a picture in the opened file.
I immediately removed the ethernet cable and turned off my router.
Avast Anti Virus didn't say anything at all, also I couldn't find any new task running with task manager, and with CCleaner I checked the aufo-boot programs, and couldn't find anything either.
How high is the chance that some spyware, keylogger, or even worse got installed?
I checked my phone company and there are news about pishing mails, but they only tell you not to open them because there is some issue with MS Office 2007, 2010, 2013 od whatever version. Not what to do when you already made the mistake to open it.
Currently checking everything with my anti-virus software. But that's 2 1TB HDDs and also it might not find anything if it's hiding good enough.
So some minutes ago, my GF just downloaded a virus. I don't blame her though. She was like "hey you got an e-mail with your current phone bill, want me to open it?". I was like "sure" and a blink later, I was like "hm, actually no, I don't get bills via e-mail".
Well, was too late. She had already opened the .rtf file on the pc and clicked on a picture in the opened file.
I immediately removed the ethernet cable and turned off my router.
Avast Anti Virus didn't say anything at all, also I couldn't find any new task running with task manager, and with CCleaner I checked the aufo-boot programs, and couldn't find anything either.
How high is the chance that some spyware, keylogger, or even worse got installed?
I checked my phone company and there are news about pishing mails, but they only tell you not to open them because there is some issue with MS Office 2007, 2010, 2013 od whatever version. Not what to do when you already made the mistake to open it.
Currently checking everything with my anti-virus software. But that's 2 1TB HDDs and also it might not find anything if it's hiding good enough.
Armoured Titan
Member
Boot into safe mode and do a scan with Malwarebytes. That can check if there's any root kit installed on your system. If it comes clean then it should be fine hopefully.
phxxBullet
Banned
Well did some more research and found a picture (Nov. 2013) about those pishing mails from my provider. Only 2 anti-virus programs found that thing back then..
http://www.mimikama.at/allgemein/trojaner-warnung-fr-angebliche-a1-rechnungen/
It's the 2nd picture from this site. Sadly I can't copy/paste the img.link via my iPhone
Seems like I'm screwed >.<
LifeIsLife
Banned
Your not screwed at all. First if you are infected with a virus, disconnect from the internet. If you have a second device, download and burn a copy of Hirens Boot CD: http://www.hirensbootcd.org/download/
Boot to the CD and load up MiniXP. It will come pre-configured with a ton of apps, antivirus, etc. Use these to start running scans on the system and check for viruses/malware, etc. If these scans find anything and cant remove the viruses with the built in tools, theyll atleast give you a name to look for instructions on how to remove the issues. If you need help PM me and I can give you a hand
phxxBullet
Banned
Thanks for the help. Well sadly I only got this computer, no notebook or anything else. I already disconnected from the internet.
BUT since the virus was opened via my OS HDD, shouldn't I be fine installing my OS on the 2nd one (which is just for backups of my personal folders), wipe everything and do a clean install on my main HDD? I got a win7 CD so no need to download anything at all
The only thing which bugs me is that if i do a clean install, my browser history of 2 years would be gone. That's the only thing I can think of which would be a loss. I don't care about game saves, or installing all programs again.
// Avast Anti Vir didn't find anything at all with the quickcheck.. I kinda feel like "yolo" and go on like nothing happened. But then again it somehow scares me
LifeIsLife
Banned
Browsing history, bookmarks, etc can be exported from their respective browsers and imported again on a new install. If your using chrome and have cloud saving enabled alot of that stuff will come over when you log into a new computer with your google account.
Installing an OS to a secondary drive isnt a secure way to get around a virus. Its not uncommon for a virus to be able to transport itself across drives, networks, usb keys, etc. It may still be safe to connect and download Hirens on the main computer and burn it off, just do not do anything that would be considered "private" like banking, emails, logging into accounts, etc. If you do not feel safe doing this do you have a friend with a computer, university, library, etc that you may be able to use for 10 minutes to download and burn a disc?
If you do decide to do a clean install, you do not need to have a OS already installed, you can simply format the OS drive and go from there. If you need to save certain files first to your secondary drive(pictures, docs, etc) hirens boot cd with MiniXP would let you do that as well. Since you are worried about a virus, do a full format of the drive and not just a quick one. Quick simply deletes the pointers to the files but not the data itself.
When getting everything set back up i recommend using ninite: https://ninite.com/, it can build a custom download and installer for you that will allow you to install a bunch of programs at once without having to manually sit there downloading and clicking through each one.
Lastly if your using wireless, make sure you have the wireless drivers available to you as reformatting a PC and not being able to connect to the internet is a pain
Installing an OS to a secondary drive isnt a secure way to get around a virus. Its not uncommon for a virus to be able to transport itself across drives, networks, usb keys, etc. It may still be safe to connect and download Hirens on the main computer and burn it off, just do not do anything that would be considered "private" like banking, emails, logging into accounts, etc. If you do not feel safe doing this do you have a friend with a computer, university, library, etc that you may be able to use for 10 minutes to download and burn a disc?
If you do decide to do a clean install, you do not need to have a OS already installed, you can simply format the OS drive and go from there. If you need to save certain files first to your secondary drive(pictures, docs, etc) hirens boot cd with MiniXP would let you do that as well. Since you are worried about a virus, do a full format of the drive and not just a quick one. Quick simply deletes the pointers to the files but not the data itself.
When getting everything set back up i recommend using ninite: https://ninite.com/, it can build a custom download and installer for you that will allow you to install a bunch of programs at once without having to manually sit there downloading and clicking through each one.
Lastly if your using wireless, make sure you have the wireless drivers available to you as reformatting a PC and not being able to connect to the internet is a pain
TheRagnCajun
Member
NCIX has a lot of Gigabyte and Club 3D stuff on sale. Are they junk? Or do they actually make good quality?
So windows 7 is not giving me memory issues so I'm happy about that. But now I'm unhappy with my corsair cx600m psu. First was coil whine which I got used to but now the fan sounds a little different. It's not smooth sounding. Almost like it's stuttering. Gotta find a new psu before my return window closes...
phxxBullet
Banned
Using fiesfox I tried this once, and I got like 3 bookmarks and no history, so that kinda sucked haha.
Oh, so if I decided to do a clean install, I can simply put in the Win7 CD, choose an option which let's me fully formate my OS HDD (as you said it should be a full format and not a quick one) and then it does a clean install?
But then again, I could get the virus on my clean installed OS HDD by transfering my backed up personald folders from the 2nd HDD to the OS one?
Umm hell, I hate maleware. It's not like they could get any data from me besides gaming forums account and my youtube/mail account. But it just takes so much time to get rid of anything haha
Baron_Calamity
Member
Could I get some video card recommendations? My current Video card: Nvidia Geforce 660 GTX oem with 2 gigs of 192 bit memory. Its good but it isn't performing that great on some newer titles. i don't want a Titan or any BS like that. Just a good card around the $300 or less mark.
The rest of my current rig
CPU: Intel i7-3770
Ram: 12 gigs ddr 3 1600
Hard drive: 2 TB 7200 RPM + 32 gb SSD cache
os: Windows 7 64 bit
The rest of my current rig
CPU: Intel i7-3770
Ram: 12 gigs ddr 3 1600
Hard drive: 2 TB 7200 RPM + 32 gb SSD cache
os: Windows 7 64 bit
phxxBullet
Banned
LifeIsLife
Banned
You should be fine doing a clean install and then if you have backed up files, moving them over. If your not overly concerned then dont do the clean install, but I would still recommend running a couple anti-virus or malware applications to fully scan your computer. It will take some time but in a case like this its better to be safe than sorry. Never know in the future when you might go to amazon and buy somthing just that one time or your GF borrows your computer to check her online banking just once etc.
Again i would recommend hirens for this as it has these anti virus apps loaded and ready to go lol
Is $300 including selling your 660? You'll still get a decent bit for it too.
For $300 you'd be looking at the R9 280, R9 280X and the 770
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Produ...-na-_-na&cm_sp=&AID=10446076&PID=3938566&SID=
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Produ...-na-_-na&cm_sp=&AID=10446076&PID=3938566&SID=
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Produ...-na-_-na&cm_sp=&AID=10446076&PID=3938566&SID=
LifeIsLife
Banned
If you want to stay Nvidia the only thing in your range would be a 770 2GB version. Their MSRP is $349(I believe, im in Canada so its more) but they are on sale constantly.
The AMD equivalent to this would be the 280x, I took a quick look at Newegg and they have a couple for $300, the 770 right now seems to be a better performer though
Samsung Evo/Pro or Crucial M500
phxxBullet
Banned
Then again I might aswell do a clean install if it's as safe or maybe even safer. At least I'm saving time on the disk defragging, cleaning all temporary files and everything else I got together in the past 2 years haha
Also just started the full scan from my anti-vir. After 10 minutes still 0% from 1 TB.
I guess I'm better of wiping everything, I can't wait a full day for it checking everything. Kinda busy with school stuff and I'd need the computer to work out on projects
// After 30 minutes: 7,9GB checked / 974 GB
Yup, I'll go and do a clean install lol
clem84
Gold Member
Thanks. I think I'll go for the Samsung 840 EVO 250GB. Seems like a pretty good bang for your buck.
California, preferably 60$ or less...
I have decided that I don't need modular either really. Even with this CX600M I'm using all but one cable because it's semi modular and I need a molex for my case fans. I can easily fit all of the cables in a nonmodular behind my motherboard in my R4. Although, modular is still preferred.
I just want something quiet and low chance of coil whine. I have my R4 about 2 feet away from me at head level so even that case can be noisy.
TheRagnCajun
Member
Okay GAF, I threw this together based on what is on sale at NCIX right now:
$300 Videocard Club 3D Radeon R9 280 Royal King 960MHZ 3GB 5.0GHZ GDDR5 2xDVI HDMI DisplayPort PCI-E Video Card
$60 Hard Drive Seagate Barracuda 1TB 7200RPM 64MB SATA 6Gbps 3.5IN Internal Hard Drive - OEM
$95 SSD Kingston HyperX 3K 120GB 2.5in SATA3 SandForce SF-2281 SSD Drive READ:555MB/S WRITE:510MB/S
$395 MoBo&CPU combo MSI Z87-G45 Gaming ATX LGA1150 Z87 3PCI-E16 4PCI-E1 CrossFireX/SLI SATA3 4K HDMI USB3.0 Motherboard /// Intel Core i5 4670K Unlocked Quad Core 3.4GHZ Processor LGA1150 Haswell 6MB Cache Retail
$90 RAM Corsair Vengeance Heatspreader CMZ8GX3M2A2133C11B 8GB 2X4GB DDR3-2133 CL11 Dual Channel Memory Kit
$100 Case Fractal Design Define R4 ATX Tower Case Blackout 2X5.25 8X3.5INT No PSU Front 2XUSB3.0 Audio
$60 CPU Heatsink Noctua NH-D14 LGA1150/1155/1156/1366 AM3 FM1 FM2 Heatpipe Cooler w/ NF-P14 140mm & NF-P12 120mm Fan
Disc drives are carryover
PSU is carry over (750W Cosair)
Total: $1,100 CAD
What do you think? I know there is marginal advantage to higher RAM frequencies, but there is basically no cost difference. Its a gaming system, but I'd like to have it reasonably quiet while idle or streaming. I'm mainly getting the CPU fan to have a quieter system.
$300 Videocard Club 3D Radeon R9 280 Royal King 960MHZ 3GB 5.0GHZ GDDR5 2xDVI HDMI DisplayPort PCI-E Video Card
$60 Hard Drive Seagate Barracuda 1TB 7200RPM 64MB SATA 6Gbps 3.5IN Internal Hard Drive - OEM
$95 SSD Kingston HyperX 3K 120GB 2.5in SATA3 SandForce SF-2281 SSD Drive READ:555MB/S WRITE:510MB/S
$395 MoBo&CPU combo MSI Z87-G45 Gaming ATX LGA1150 Z87 3PCI-E16 4PCI-E1 CrossFireX/SLI SATA3 4K HDMI USB3.0 Motherboard /// Intel Core i5 4670K Unlocked Quad Core 3.4GHZ Processor LGA1150 Haswell 6MB Cache Retail
$90 RAM Corsair Vengeance Heatspreader CMZ8GX3M2A2133C11B 8GB 2X4GB DDR3-2133 CL11 Dual Channel Memory Kit
$100 Case Fractal Design Define R4 ATX Tower Case Blackout 2X5.25 8X3.5INT No PSU Front 2XUSB3.0 Audio
$60 CPU Heatsink Noctua NH-D14 LGA1150/1155/1156/1366 AM3 FM1 FM2 Heatpipe Cooler w/ NF-P14 140mm & NF-P12 120mm Fan
Disc drives are carryover
PSU is carry over (750W Cosair)
Total: $1,100 CAD
What do you think? I know there is marginal advantage to higher RAM frequencies, but there is basically no cost difference. Its a gaming system, but I'd like to have it reasonably quiet while idle or streaming. I'm mainly getting the CPU fan to have a quieter system.
phxxBullet
Banned
Not very familiar with US prices, but 400 bucks for the i5+mobo? That seems a bit pricy to me
Looking for a little advice on purchasing over 18 months. I get quite a few staples rewards. In the next year I will get around $1500 in rewards. What order should I buy the parts in to ensure I get the most bang for my buck. For example, I know the graphics card will get cheaper by next year so should that be my last purchase?
Or is this a dumb idea and I should keep buying Ipad upgrades.
Or is this a dumb idea and I should keep buying Ipad upgrades.
TheRagnCajun
Member
I think the CPU price is competitive but they bundled it with a $180 Mobo. Maybe thats overpriced?
With this build (http://pcpartpicker.com/p/3yyZs) what is a reliable PSU <$100 I should be getting for it to run?
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