AstuteClass
Banned
Haha I honestly couldn't care less about logos, etc. With the exception of the EVGA card. I would prefer to have the reference card inside. Will switch up the SSD now then.
How about the PSU?
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"I Need a New PC!" 2014 Part 1. 1080p and 60FPS is so last-gen and your 2500K is fine
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Haha I honestly couldn't care less about logos, etc. With the exception of the EVGA card. I would prefer to have the reference card inside. Will switch up the SSD now then.
How about the PSU?
The 840 Pro is the best on the market if you forget about price but I can't do that. The M500 is perfectly good and is almost half the price.
PSU wise both are Seasonic made PSUs with different branding on the outside so they're quality units. The Platinum rated ones can be more prone to coil whine iirc but mkenyon knows more about the Platinum rated units than I do. I don't really think they're worth the money when the Gold units are as good as this. Review
I've gone cheaper but kept quality.
AstuteClass
Banned
Wow, quite a change up from my original, but I do believe for the better. Thank you!
How is she looking now?
PCPartPicker part list / Price breakdown by merchant / Benchmarks
CPU: Intel Core i7-4770K 3.5GHz Quad-Core Processor (£227.94 @ Scan.co.uk)
CPU Cooler: Corsair H105 73.0 CFM Liquid CPU Cooler (£79.99 @ Ebuyer)
Motherboard: Gigabyte GA-Z87X-UD3H ATX LGA1150 Motherboard (£121.00 @ Amazon UK)
Memory: Corsair Dominator Platinum 16GB (2 x 8GB) DDR3-1866 Memory (£159.88 @ Amazon UK)
Storage: Crucial M500 240GB 2.5" Solid State Disk (£78.99 @ Amazon UK)
Storage: Seagate 1TB 3.5" 7200RPM Hybrid Internal Hard Drive (£58.99 @ Novatech)
Video Card: EVGA GeForce GTX 780 Ti 3GB Superclocked Video Card (£529.99 @ Dabs)
Case: NZXT Phantom 410 (Black) ATX Mid Tower Case (£80.89 @ Scan.co.uk)
Power Supply: XFX ProSeries 750W 80+ Gold Certified Fully-Modular ATX Power Supply (£96.90 @ Scan.co.uk)
Optical Drive: Pioneer BDR-208DBK Blu-Ray/DVD/CD Writer (£65.63 @ Amazon UK)
Operating System: Microsoft Windows 7 Ultimate SP1 (OEM) (64-bit) (£132.17 @ CCL Computers)
Total: £1632.37
(Prices include shipping, taxes, and discounts when available.)
(Generated by PCPartPicker 2014-04-27 17:03 BST+0100)
How is she looking now?
PCPartPicker part list / Price breakdown by merchant / Benchmarks
CPU: Intel Core i7-4770K 3.5GHz Quad-Core Processor (£227.94 @ Scan.co.uk)
CPU Cooler: Corsair H105 73.0 CFM Liquid CPU Cooler (£79.99 @ Ebuyer)
Motherboard: Gigabyte GA-Z87X-UD3H ATX LGA1150 Motherboard (£121.00 @ Amazon UK)
Memory: Corsair Dominator Platinum 16GB (2 x 8GB) DDR3-1866 Memory (£159.88 @ Amazon UK)
Storage: Crucial M500 240GB 2.5" Solid State Disk (£78.99 @ Amazon UK)
Storage: Seagate 1TB 3.5" 7200RPM Hybrid Internal Hard Drive (£58.99 @ Novatech)
Video Card: EVGA GeForce GTX 780 Ti 3GB Superclocked Video Card (£529.99 @ Dabs)
Case: NZXT Phantom 410 (Black) ATX Mid Tower Case (£80.89 @ Scan.co.uk)
Power Supply: XFX ProSeries 750W 80+ Gold Certified Fully-Modular ATX Power Supply (£96.90 @ Scan.co.uk)
Optical Drive: Pioneer BDR-208DBK Blu-Ray/DVD/CD Writer (£65.63 @ Amazon UK)
Operating System: Microsoft Windows 7 Ultimate SP1 (OEM) (64-bit) (£132.17 @ CCL Computers)
Total: £1632.37
(Prices include shipping, taxes, and discounts when available.)
(Generated by PCPartPicker 2014-04-27 17:03 BST+0100)
AstuteClass
Banned
Now I'm going to question the need for the Blu-ray drive
Haha it's cool. I've got about another 3-4 weeks until I'm pulling the trigger on all these parts anyway, so I want every crease ironed out by then.
I've already got the 4770k, Windows, and the 1TB HDD, so everything else is up for grabs. With the exception of case and GPU. Everything else I'm open on!
Well I'm a bit of a backup freak. So the prospect of being able to back up to huge BD-Rs is nice. I suppose I could go the cheaper and more time-consuming route of DL-DVD-Rs, which are only just shy of half a single layer BD-R.
Also, I noticed in my build above I still have the dominator Platinums. Should I switch up to the HyperX?
molnizzle
Member
When are we expecting desktop Broadwell CPU's? Do we know if they will require new mobo chipsets, or will I be able to slot one in to my H81?
I'm trying to decide if I should pounce on the Haswell refresh next month or wait it out for Broadwell. If I won't be able to use Broadwell chips then that makes the decision a lot simpler.
I'm trying to decide if I should pounce on the Haswell refresh next month or wait it out for Broadwell. If I won't be able to use Broadwell chips then that makes the decision a lot simpler.
If you want to save money then yeah swap. Depends on how much value you place on aesthetics.
Fair enough if you're going to get the drive for back-ups. I never thought about backing up to a disc like that now, always just cloud and an external storage medium like an external HDD or whatever.
They're still using 1150.
molnizzle
Member
I know that the socket is the same, my question is whether they will require new mobo chipsets. Intel has said that the new Z97 will be compatible with Broadwell, but do we know if the current gen Haswell chipsets will be as well?
Specifically the H81 in my case.
AstuteClass
Banned
Cool I will. Besides, I can't see the Dominator Platinums being more aesthetic anyway. The HyperX's have a black finish which goes with the mobo.
Why is it though that 2 x 8GB is £109 but 4 x 8GB is £230, when 2 lots of 2 x 8GB is still 32GB but only £218?
Anything to do with quad channel performance?
Should do. Z97 should support all current Haswell stuff and older boards will likely be BIOS update-able to support the new Haswell processors.
SteveWinwood
Member
Okay everything is in my cart, but can anyone recommend a wifi solution real quick?
I looked into powerline, and I don't think that will fit my needs, and my existing wifi is pretty good so I'm just going to use that. Problem is almost every wifi card I click on has bad reviews
Also I'm assuming I'd want PCI over usb right?
Also specifically on 8.1 since apparently that's a crap shoot right now.
I looked into powerline, and I don't think that will fit my needs, and my existing wifi is pretty good so I'm just going to use that. Problem is almost every wifi card I click on has bad reviews
Also I'm assuming I'd want PCI over usb right?
Also specifically on 8.1 since apparently that's a crap shoot right now.
So if I grabbed a Z97 board, I could target a lower end Haswell first off and then when Broadwell hits, grab myself an upgrade. Nice.
£132 for Windows 7 is insanity.
Did I miss a reason why the reference cooler on the GPU? Interesting that you're going with a hybrid drive for your data, not that I'm against it. Definitely agree with the point that the RAM you've chosen is very expensive just for the aesthetics, your preference though of course.
S0cc3rpunk
Unconfirmed Member
This would be good, but there's no SSD - I'd save a little bit longer to get one
PCPartPicker part list / Price breakdown by merchant / Benchmarks
CPU: Intel Core i5-4670K 3.4GHz Quad-Core Processor ($209.99 @ Newegg)
CPU Cooler: Cooler Master Hyper 212 EVO 82.9 CFM Sleeve Bearing CPU Cooler ($29.98 @ OutletPC)
Motherboard: Gigabyte GA-Z87M-D3H 1.0 Micro ATX LGA1150 Motherboard ($90.16 @ Newegg)
Memory: G.Skill Ares Series 8GB (2 x 4GB) DDR3-1600 Memory ($68.99 @ Newegg)
Storage: Western Digital Caviar Blue 1TB 3.5" 7200RPM Internal Hard Drive ($56.98 @ OutletPC)
Video Card: Gigabyte GeForce GTX 760 2GB WINDFORCE Video Card ($239.99 @ NCIX US)
Case: Cooler Master N200 MicroATX Mid Tower Case ($39.99 @ Newegg)
Power Supply: EVGA 500W 80+ Bronze Certified ATX Power Supply ($39.99 @ Newegg)
Operating System: Microsoft Windows 8.1 (OEM) (64-bit) ($20.00 @ Reddit)
Total: $796.07
(Prices include shipping, taxes, and discounts when available.)
(Generated by PCPartPicker 2014-04-27 10:04 EDT-0400)
The RAM isn't particularly high-profile (nor is it low-profile either) but it's good for the price. All your parts are compatible so there's no problem with it there. Any reason you're looking at a full ATX board? Usually you'd only go for one of them if you want a second graphics card as well as some other add-in cards like a sound or wireless card.
thank you so much for this
so on this motherboard Gigabyte GA-Z87M-D3H 1.0 Micro ATX LGA1150, i wont be able to put a wireless card.so that means i would have to get the ATX Board. it's ok on the ssd ill get it soon
I'd be very surprised if they didn't work. 1155 had a new chipset with the Z77 board and SB CPUs had no issues so I would be quite certain it will be the same here. Might lose out on the odd feature (SB couldn't use PCIe 3) but it'll likely be fine.
I don't know is my honest answer. Price gouging for higher listed capacities I guess.
deranged_666
Member
Hey everyone,
So, I haven't built a PC in about 12 years. When my career focus became music and audio production, I switched solely to Apple computers, which meant that aside from light Steam/Blizzard games, I wasn't doing much heavy gaming.
Over the last several years, my main computing tasks were done between an iMac and MacBook Pro. My latest iMac is (or was) a 2010 27 inch with a Core i7, which served me well for my purposes. The one huge drawback was that, due to my newer MBP having an SSD, my iMac became clunky in comparison, and I had no easy way to switch over the hard drive. Also, the iMac line uses desktop CPUs with mobile GPUs, so it could game in a pinch, but I mostly focused on console gaming. I started to miss having a desktop with easily changeable/replaceable parts, and I was also starting to become more interested in PC gaming. My main goal was to wait for a refresh of the Mac Pro, but then Apple releases a proprietary form factor with no internal expandability whatsoever. It's a very, very nice machine, but not what I'm looking for.
This is when I started reading up on Hackintosh builds. This seems to be the best solution for me. I'm not scared to read up, educate myself, and learn the ins and outs of building one. I can build a monster PC that would be great for gaming, while at the same time, run OS X on a separate drive so that the machine can suit my needs for audio work. I sold my iMac last night (got a decent penny for it too, considering the resale value of Apple products).
I'm currently in the process of reading an asston of information about what works, what doesn't work, what's best for the OS X side of things, etc. But if you guys wouldn't mind, I have some general PC questions about a specific build I'm looking at. As for my needs: my budget is between $2000-$2500, but I'd like to stay at the lower end of that. It needs to be 100% Hackintosh-compatible using the hardware guides out there. I'd like great expandability options and quick I/O (Thunderbolt 2 preferred). It also can't be vacuum cleaner loud, but I'm willing to deal with some noise. Finally, since audio work requires a fast CPU, it needs to be a top notch i7 (A high-end Xenon build is out of my price range, plus there are no motherboards that are LGA2011 with TB2)
WIth that said, the specific build I'm looking at is listed here: http://lifehacker.com/5919132/build-the-mac-pro-that-you-wish-apple-released
It's the first HackPro build listed on the page (the "On-A-Budget" build). For reference, here are the components of the build:
In general, I'd stick pretty close to this build. I might forgo the 840 Pro for a couple of bigger 840 EVOs, since they are vastly cheaper and everyone seems to love them. And I might double the RAM (helpful with Virtual Instruments).
The general questions I have about this build are:
1. Is the power supply ample enough for this build, or just to be safe, should I move up to a higher one?
2. How "hot" would this machine get? Should I think about buying a replacement CPU cooler to replace the stock one? If so, is watercooling a preferred option?
3. Would these components do well in the case listed? Or should I move up to a larger case? Size of the tower really isn't an issue for me. Would the fans in the listed case be enough for overall cooling? And how quiet is this case (if anyone knows or has it)? Is there a go-to quiet case everyone is going to these days?
4. What can I expect from the GPU in terms of gaming on the Windows side of things? I haven't really paid much attention to PC GPUs in a long time, but the 780 TI is pretty good, no?
5. Also, there are some general concerns about the 780 Ti in regards to OS X. Something about needing additional, experimental drivers to enable OpenCL. The lower end cards, such as the 760/770, don't seem to need anything else to run perfectly in OS X. Would I notice much of a decrease in gaming performance if I moved down?
Sorry this is so wordy. Trying to cover all of my bases here so that I'm happy with my build. Basically what I'm trying to do is set this up with two SSDs as system drives for OS X and Windows 8. There would also be one, maybe two spinning drives for storage, although I'd probably just throw one in there for my audio libraries in OS X as I probably wouldn't need more than 500 GB on the Windows side.
If anyone has guidance or any other suggestions, I'd be forever grateful to get your opinions. Thank you for reading!
So, I haven't built a PC in about 12 years. When my career focus became music and audio production, I switched solely to Apple computers, which meant that aside from light Steam/Blizzard games, I wasn't doing much heavy gaming.
Over the last several years, my main computing tasks were done between an iMac and MacBook Pro. My latest iMac is (or was) a 2010 27 inch with a Core i7, which served me well for my purposes. The one huge drawback was that, due to my newer MBP having an SSD, my iMac became clunky in comparison, and I had no easy way to switch over the hard drive. Also, the iMac line uses desktop CPUs with mobile GPUs, so it could game in a pinch, but I mostly focused on console gaming. I started to miss having a desktop with easily changeable/replaceable parts, and I was also starting to become more interested in PC gaming. My main goal was to wait for a refresh of the Mac Pro, but then Apple releases a proprietary form factor with no internal expandability whatsoever. It's a very, very nice machine, but not what I'm looking for.
This is when I started reading up on Hackintosh builds. This seems to be the best solution for me. I'm not scared to read up, educate myself, and learn the ins and outs of building one. I can build a monster PC that would be great for gaming, while at the same time, run OS X on a separate drive so that the machine can suit my needs for audio work. I sold my iMac last night (got a decent penny for it too, considering the resale value of Apple products).
I'm currently in the process of reading an asston of information about what works, what doesn't work, what's best for the OS X side of things, etc. But if you guys wouldn't mind, I have some general PC questions about a specific build I'm looking at. As for my needs: my budget is between $2000-$2500, but I'd like to stay at the lower end of that. It needs to be 100% Hackintosh-compatible using the hardware guides out there. I'd like great expandability options and quick I/O (Thunderbolt 2 preferred). It also can't be vacuum cleaner loud, but I'm willing to deal with some noise. Finally, since audio work requires a fast CPU, it needs to be a top notch i7 (A high-end Xenon build is out of my price range, plus there are no motherboards that are LGA2011 with TB2)
WIth that said, the specific build I'm looking at is listed here: http://lifehacker.com/5919132/build-the-mac-pro-that-you-wish-apple-released
It's the first HackPro build listed on the page (the "On-A-Budget" build). For reference, here are the components of the build:
- Corsair Carbide Black 500R Mid-Tower Case
- Gigabyte GA-Z87X-UD7 TH Motherboard
- Intel Core i7 4770K 3.5 GHz Processor
- EVGA GeForce GTX 780 Ti
- 16GB Crucial Ballistix 1600 MHz DDR3 16GB
- 256GB Samsung 840 Pro Solid State Drive
- Corsair Carbide RM 650 Modular Power Supply
- TP-Link PCI Express Wi-Fi Card
In general, I'd stick pretty close to this build. I might forgo the 840 Pro for a couple of bigger 840 EVOs, since they are vastly cheaper and everyone seems to love them. And I might double the RAM (helpful with Virtual Instruments).
The general questions I have about this build are:
1. Is the power supply ample enough for this build, or just to be safe, should I move up to a higher one?
2. How "hot" would this machine get? Should I think about buying a replacement CPU cooler to replace the stock one? If so, is watercooling a preferred option?
3. Would these components do well in the case listed? Or should I move up to a larger case? Size of the tower really isn't an issue for me. Would the fans in the listed case be enough for overall cooling? And how quiet is this case (if anyone knows or has it)? Is there a go-to quiet case everyone is going to these days?
4. What can I expect from the GPU in terms of gaming on the Windows side of things? I haven't really paid much attention to PC GPUs in a long time, but the 780 TI is pretty good, no?
5. Also, there are some general concerns about the 780 Ti in regards to OS X. Something about needing additional, experimental drivers to enable OpenCL. The lower end cards, such as the 760/770, don't seem to need anything else to run perfectly in OS X. Would I notice much of a decrease in gaming performance if I moved down?
Sorry this is so wordy. Trying to cover all of my bases here so that I'm happy with my build. Basically what I'm trying to do is set this up with two SSDs as system drives for OS X and Windows 8. There would also be one, maybe two spinning drives for storage, although I'd probably just throw one in there for my audio libraries in OS X as I probably wouldn't need more than 500 GB on the Windows side.
If anyone has guidance or any other suggestions, I'd be forever grateful to get your opinions. Thank you for reading!
Because they are trying to make money!
Quad channel means running 4 DIMMs, Dual channel means running 2 DIMMs. Being able to run Quad or Dual channel depends on the motherboard. Socket 1150 is Dual Channel.
It doesnt matter if you buy 4 seperate DIMMs and put into a mobo that supports Quad Channel over buying a 4 DIMM kit. Kit is all it is, convenience that its all in one box.
If you buy a "Quad Channel Kit", itll just run each pair in Dual Channels on a Dual Channel Motherboard. Just as it would be if you bought 2 pairs of dual channel kits.
Anyways, more importantly, why 32GB Ram? Running Virtual machines or something?
See Bold.
XShadows69
Member
A few questions about mATX cases
1) Will any PSU fit? I am going to get a 500B but say I was going to upgrade could I fit in say an 800w one?
2) Same thing about GPUs, will I ever reach a length limit (realistically).
You could easily put in a wireless card.thank you so much for this
so that means i would have to get the ATX Board. it's ok on the ssd ill get it soon
Of those four expansion slots the top one and one below would be taken up by the graphics card, leaving you one PCI slot and one PCI-E slot - you could put a wireless card in either of them
So even on windows 7 my crysis has issues
It only happens when I have my dual monitor setup. Whenever it's in full screen mode, if I minimize and try to maximize, it will flicker and then return to minimized. Sometimes it will maximize, sometimes it'll just break my PC entirely!
Is there some advanced options that I'm missing for dual monitors? I just plugged it in and that's it.
It only happens when I have my dual monitor setup. Whenever it's in full screen mode, if I minimize and try to maximize, it will flicker and then return to minimized. Sometimes it will maximize, sometimes it'll just break my PC entirely!
Is there some advanced options that I'm missing for dual monitors? I just plugged it in and that's it.
appaws
Banned
I actually found building in the N200 easier than the Source 210, plus the front plastic on the 210 is kinda bad. But at this price range there's not too many good cases anyway, so many terrible sub $40 cases
No doubt. I think its the first place people look to go cheap when putting together a build. I think if a person can get up to $60US, the Corsair 200R looks nice and is universally reviewed well. Haven't used it myself.
S0cc3rpunk
Unconfirmed Member
You could easily put in a wireless card.
Of those four expansion slots the top one and one below would be taken up by the graphics card, leaving you one PCI slot and one PCI-E slot - you could put a wireless card in either of them
thank you so much for the reply
can't wait to purchase this now
molnizzle
Member
Interesting. Is PCIe 3.0 important? The board I bought only has PCIe 2.0 (I believe), which I thought was the most recent version. Did I screw myself?
This is my motherboard: MSI H81I
Also, the documentation that came with it says that the mobo supports "OC Genie for 1-click overclocking." I was under the impression that the H81 chipset didn't support overclocking... so what is MSI talking about here? Could I actually buy a K-series CPU and jack up the multiplier?
Just want to update that my SFF build went great, everything up an running. Need to look into some quiet slim fans that push some decent air, something better than the stock ones this case came with. Any ideas?
Also, I need a wired keyboard to replace my apple wireless keyboard but does anyone know of a good (preferably illuminated) KB that's short? I love that this Apple wireless KB doesn't have the numbers pad on the right, so it's a lot shorter. Don't want a huge keyboard. Anyone know of any?
Also, I need a wired keyboard to replace my apple wireless keyboard but does anyone know of a good (preferably illuminated) KB that's short? I love that this Apple wireless KB doesn't have the numbers pad on the right, so it's a lot shorter. Don't want a huge keyboard. Anyone know of any?
AstuteClass
Banned
Starting to suspect that the 32GB is indeed overkill. I'll just stick to the 16GB HyperX Beast.
Ally1987
Member
No not the headers, but the on just beside the CPU.
what is the best software to reduce the fan speeds with?
Motherboard software if you want custom fan curves or just select silent profile in Bios.
Pretty much anything fits in mATX cases. With ITX cases you need to be bit more careful. You'll see most PSUs don't get much bigger unless going for 1KW+, as for GPUs just take today's longest single GPU as the largest you'll fit. Each case has a maximum GPU length, but most are not hugely restrictive, you just need to check it unlike an ATX case.
Some cases to check out
MATX: Silverstone TJ08E, Lian Li PC-354B, Corsair variants.
Mini ITX: Fractal Node 304, Coolermaster a Elite 130, EVGA Hadron, Jonsbo.
With most GPUs no but it might become more down the line in a few years. It'll only really matter now to something like the R9 295x2
It's probably just a base clock overclock if that is even possible. So like a 100mhz overclock. Chipset is made by Intel so it's locked down there, nothing MSI can do to magically overclock by multipliers.
molnizzle
Member
In the MSI command center, the box next to bclock OC says "this motherboard does not support modifying the base clock." It says the same thing about Vcore. For the multiplier, it says "this CPU does not support modifying the multiplier." I'm currently using a Pentium G3220, so locked multiplier.
This makes me think that I'd be able to increase the multiplier but not the bclock or Vcore. Which would be perfectly fine by me since this is a SFF PC anyway.
However, if I can't do that then I'd rather get an S-series CPU for the lower TDP. I just wish that there was a way to get a confirmed answer from MSI.
No you definitely cannot change the multiplier on a non Z series motherboard. I wouldn't pay more for an S Series chip. TDP is a worst case scenario that you will never hit. Your average power consumption will be very similar as the S Series chip. The power saving features on Haswell are really excellent.
phxxBullet
Banned
Afaik, not every PSU fits into mATX cases. Or maybe it was for mini ITX? Not sure on this one.
You have to look up on every single case what length of GPus it supports. There's almost everything from 200mm (with a HDD cage) up to about 400mm.
Your board should support PCI 3.0. Everything since x7x should. But it does depend on the CPU supporting it as well (which all of Haswell should). The 'OC Genie' would probably just change the FSB from 100 to 103. So nothing to write home about. No you wouldn't be able to plug a K series chipset in.
There was very briefly word that some of the prerelease boards had a BIOS in the H87 boards that accidentally supported multiplier over clocks, but alas nothing made it to production and nothing has been hacked in since either.
And like Kharma said - nothing saturates 2.0 yet anyway.
Not all cases support all PSUs. Take a look at the maximum length of PSU that it supports. MOST are available in 160mm or so, which is what the Prodigy and the Node prefer, but some are longer - and you need to be especially careful for modular. for some the casing will be at 160mm, but the modular plugs will stick out a few mm, making it not fit.
molnizzle
Member
I'm rolling with a 450w PSU though, so I think it'd be worth it to go with an S-series if the price is similar (and they seem to be, right now).
I think I'll jump on the i5-4690S when it releases next month. Unless the 4670S gets a nice markdown around that time.
phxxBullet
Banned
Great to here! But no idea about silent fans here, sorry.
Well, many mechanical gaming KBs don't have numpads or extra keys, so they'r pretty short. No idea about illuminated KBs though.
For example:
Noppoo Choc Mini Cherry Mx-Red
Mechanical Keyboard HPE 87 Black Mx-Red
CM Storm Quick Fire Rapid Gaming
Filco Majestouch Ninja Tenkeyless Mx-Red
450w is plenty on Intel, especially if you're not OCing. Valve had a 780 and an i5 running off that and there would've still been room to spare.
Thank you so much for the recommendations, will look into them! I've never used a mechanical KB, but are the quietest switches still pretty loud compared to say a non mechanical KB?
Yeah, I have a Brown switch board (the quietest), but it's still pretty loud.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hUN93Xz-7pg
Holy wow, they can't be THAT loud as in the video right? In that video demonstration, it sounds like people tap dancing with clogs on hardwood flooring. The video has to be amplifying the sounds, whether it's his mic or him intentionally hammering on the keys extra hard...right!?
I'm looking into the CM Storm Quickfire w/Brown but after that video, I'm afraid lol.
Captain Smoker
Member
So, my final biuld:
Case: Corsair Vengeance C70 Gunmetal Black ( 93,62 € ) - ( bought )
Mainboard: ASRock Fatal1ty H87 Performance ( 78,06 € ) - ( bought )
CPU: Intel Core i7 4770 4x 3.40GHz So.1150 BOX ( 249,42 € )
Memory: Crucial Ballistix Sport 16GB DDR3-1600 ( 107,89 € ) - ( bought )
Cooling: bequiet! SHADOW ROCK SLIM ( 33,99 € ) - ( bought )
GPU: 2048MB MSI GeForce GTX 770 Twin Frozr Gaming Aktiv PCIe 3.0 x16 ( 265,60 € )
Storage: Samsung 840 EVO 2,5" 250 GB ( 117,31 € )
OS: Windows 8.1 ( 79,81 € )
Storage: 1 TB Western Digital HDD ( 0,00 € - external, already have one
Optical Drive: I'll use the DVD-drive from my old PC
I'm also going with a higher quality power supply and I'm probably going to buy the Enermax Platimax 500W or 600W (80+ Platinum), but I don't know which one is better for this build.
CPU uses 85 Watt maximum, graphics card 230 Watt maximum, motherboard 50 to 100.
Shouldn't the 500W be enough? Or should I go with the 600W one. They cost 113 € and 127 € each.
Case: Corsair Vengeance C70 Gunmetal Black ( 93,62 € ) - ( bought )
Mainboard: ASRock Fatal1ty H87 Performance ( 78,06 € ) - ( bought )
CPU: Intel Core i7 4770 4x 3.40GHz So.1150 BOX ( 249,42 € )
Memory: Crucial Ballistix Sport 16GB DDR3-1600 ( 107,89 € ) - ( bought )
Cooling: bequiet! SHADOW ROCK SLIM ( 33,99 € ) - ( bought )
GPU: 2048MB MSI GeForce GTX 770 Twin Frozr Gaming Aktiv PCIe 3.0 x16 ( 265,60 € )
Storage: Samsung 840 EVO 2,5" 250 GB ( 117,31 € )
OS: Windows 8.1 ( 79,81 € )
Storage: 1 TB Western Digital HDD ( 0,00 €
- external, already have oneOptical Drive: I'll use the DVD-drive from my old PC
I'm also going with a higher quality power supply and I'm probably going to buy the Enermax Platimax 500W or 600W (80+ Platinum), but I don't know which one is better for this build.
CPU uses 85 Watt maximum, graphics card 230 Watt maximum, motherboard 50 to 100.
Shouldn't the 500W be enough? Or should I go with the 600W one. They cost 113 € and 127 € each.
No PM means I'll never read posts like this.
What model are you talking about? Usually 99% of the time it's just what they got 'rated' for. aka not too long ago 1600Mhz was the highest 'rated' RAM, everything else was overclocked.
If a mobo states it can only do 1866 it usually will run 2133 at least. Even then unless you are running IGP RAM speeds above 1600 or 1866 mean jack shit.
The quietest mech switches are about as quiet as most non-mechanicals. The quietest is probably the Topre switch and its S(ilent) version, but they are very expensive and you can't get backlit boards with them. The common Cherry Brown switch is not loud by any means. There's a sound, but not too much for an open office with someone sitting close to you. Unless someone's trying to sleep in the same space you're typing in, you shouldn't have a problem with it. That said, you can put dampener O-rings underneath the Cherries or buy a board with them already in place to get something even quieter.
Here are some backlit Brown switch keyboards. I'd pick Ducky over Keycool; Ducky is one of the best brands.
http://mechanicalkeyboards.com/sear...ze=Tenkeyless&keyword=&backlit=on&in_stock=on
What I'd buy for myself is the CODE keyboard by WASD, because it looks awesome and has good features. Doesn't come with Browns, but comes with Clears. Clears offer a little more resistance, but should also be reasonably quiet and can be damped like all Cherry switches. WASD also sells the dampener rings.
http://www.wasdkeyboards.com/index.php/products/code-keyboard.html
http://www.wasdkeyboards.com/index.php/products/keyboard-accessories.html
What does this sentence mean?
Your other request isn't really possible to satisfy. Generally, you get what you pay for and there aren't really any shit motherboards anymore. Pick a reputable vendor and spend what you can afford. If you need to overclock, pick an appropriate chipset. In this thread we deal with builds for gaming. It's hard to go wrong on a motherboard for that purpose.
I typed a bit on my MX Brown board to check. Couple of observations:
1) You literally stop hearing the sound of your own keyboard over time. The video was closer to the real thing than I initially thought. Still, the real thing is quiet enough for most purposes.
2) His mic is fine, but make sure you are hearing the sound right. From my laptop speakers the video sounded unrealistic and quite annoying. Switching to good speakers, the sound is much more pleasant and also accurate; that's what Browns sound like.
3) He's not hammering the keys on purpose, but he's bottoming them out, which changes the character of the sound and makes it louder. You don't have to bottom out with mechanicals, especially with "tactile" keys like Browns or Clears where you feel the bump, but I definitely bottom keys out when I'm doing anything other than typing text. Around 3:35 the guy occasionally uses a bit less force for a couple of keys, maybe does not bottom out and at least not hard. The sound is more mellow than when he hits e.g. backspace, which definitely hits bottom and makes a sharp sound. The dampening O-rings dull the sound of bottoming out and soften the impact.
I've been wanting to build a computer for several years now and have had a recent interest to get back into some PC gaming. Primarily, I game on my Xbox One but I've been having an itch to get back into PC gaming and recently put this build together. Honestly, this is the first time I've ever put together a list of parts so please let me know if anything looks odd or if I can pick something else to reduce the price while also keeping the quality. Trying to keep the price as low as possible as my fiancé and I have recently started planning for a wedding. The machine would primarily be used for some office work, light gaming use, general internet/music use and some possible photography use.
PCPartPicker part list / Price breakdown by merchant / Benchmarks
CPU: Intel Core i5-4570 3.2GHz Quad-Core Processor ($179.99 @ Amazon)
CPU Cooler: Cooler Master Hyper 212 EVO 82.9 CFM Sleeve Bearing CPU Cooler ($29.98 @ OutletPC)
Motherboard: MSI Z87-G43 Gaming ATX LGA1150 Motherboard ($116.98 @ SuperBiiz)
Memory: Corsair Vengeance 8GB (2 x 4GB) DDR3-1600 Memory ($79.99 @ Newegg)
Storage: Western Digital Caviar Blue 1TB 3.5" 7200RPM Internal Hard Drive ($56.98 @ OutletPC)
Video Card: Asus GeForce GTX 660 2GB Video Card ($184.98 @ SuperBiiz)
Case: Corsair 200R ATX Mid Tower Case ($39.99 @ NCIX US)
Power Supply: Corsair Builder 430W 80+ Bronze Certified ATX Power Supply ($27.98 @ Newegg)
Optical Drive: Asus BW-16D1HT Blu-Ray/DVD/CD Writer ($69.99 @ Newegg)
Operating System: Microsoft Windows 7 Home Premium SP1 (OEM) (64-bit) ($84.99 @ NCIX US)
Total: $871.85
(Prices include shipping, taxes, and discounts when available.)
(Generated by PCPartPicker 2014-04-27 19:48 EDT-0400)
PCPartPicker part list / Price breakdown by merchant / Benchmarks
CPU: Intel Core i5-4570 3.2GHz Quad-Core Processor ($179.99 @ Amazon)
CPU Cooler: Cooler Master Hyper 212 EVO 82.9 CFM Sleeve Bearing CPU Cooler ($29.98 @ OutletPC)
Motherboard: MSI Z87-G43 Gaming ATX LGA1150 Motherboard ($116.98 @ SuperBiiz)
Memory: Corsair Vengeance 8GB (2 x 4GB) DDR3-1600 Memory ($79.99 @ Newegg)
Storage: Western Digital Caviar Blue 1TB 3.5" 7200RPM Internal Hard Drive ($56.98 @ OutletPC)
Video Card: Asus GeForce GTX 660 2GB Video Card ($184.98 @ SuperBiiz)
Case: Corsair 200R ATX Mid Tower Case ($39.99 @ NCIX US)
Power Supply: Corsair Builder 430W 80+ Bronze Certified ATX Power Supply ($27.98 @ Newegg)
Optical Drive: Asus BW-16D1HT Blu-Ray/DVD/CD Writer ($69.99 @ Newegg)
Operating System: Microsoft Windows 7 Home Premium SP1 (OEM) (64-bit) ($84.99 @ NCIX US)
Total: $871.85
(Prices include shipping, taxes, and discounts when available.)
(Generated by PCPartPicker 2014-04-27 19:48 EDT-0400)
HOMEBOY OVER HERE
Banned
Hello.
I built a desktop a few years ago that I'd like to sell. It works very well and I've never had any problems with any of the parts.
Wondering how much it's worth these days?
specs
Intel Core i7-2600K Sandy Bridge 3.4GHz
Intel 510 (Elm Crest) 120GB SSD
G.SKILL Ripjaws Series 16GB (4 x 4GB) DDR3
ASUS GeForce GTX 580 1536MB
Also, where should I go about selling a used desktop besides craigslist or ebay?
I built a desktop a few years ago that I'd like to sell. It works very well and I've never had any problems with any of the parts.
Wondering how much it's worth these days?
specs
Intel Core i7-2600K Sandy Bridge 3.4GHz
Intel 510 (Elm Crest) 120GB SSD
G.SKILL Ripjaws Series 16GB (4 x 4GB) DDR3
ASUS GeForce GTX 580 1536MB
Also, where should I go about selling a used desktop besides craigslist or ebay?
Price would depend a lot on what the other components are (motherboard, PSU, Case)
What you've listed though -
CPU- around $180
SSD - $50
Ram - $80-100
GPU - $90-100
If you're selling to upgrade - don't - your CPU is still just as good as other consumer level options. GPU could use replacing.
- Status