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"I Need a New PC!" 2014 Part 1. 1080p and 60FPS is so last-gen and your 2500K is fine
- Thread starter Hazaro
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HOMEBOY OVER HERE
Banned
Nah, just need the money and I'm gonna get a laptop.
Cooler Master Silent Pro Gold - 1200W Power Supply
Cooler Master HAF X - High Air Flow Full Tower Computer Case with Windowed Side Panel and USB 3.0 Ports
ASUS P8P67 PRO (REV 3.0) LGA 1155 Intel P67 SATA 6Gb/s USB 3.0
Where could I sell it?
Wherever you want to. Craigslist, Hard OCP forum, gaf Buy Sell Trade thread. This thread.
Your motherboard is worth about 50-70 these days, PSU I'm not so sure about - maybe $100 depending on if there is warranty left? Case is ludicrous and out of my area of expertise, but I think the shipping cost would be about what the thing costs anyway.
You could pretty well instantly get $600-650 for it all together. Maybe a little more if you part it out.Where are you located?
HOMEBOY OVER HERE
Banned
I would gladly take $650 + shipping for it. Have a nice Samsung screen I would throw in for free. I'm in North Carolina.Wherever you want to. Craigslist, Hard OCP forum, gaf Buy Sell Trade thread. This thread.
Your motherboard is worth about 50-70 these days, PSU I'm not so sure about - maybe $100 depending on if there is warranty left? Case is ludicrous and out of my area of expertise, but I think the shipping cost would be about what the thing costs anyway.
Where are you located?
If you are willing to spend $500 bucks then get a GTX 780. If you are an AMD person then a R9 290. This is my opinion of course. Some cheaper options would be the 770 or the R9 280X
Potentially dumb question:
My Fractal R4 came with two 140mm fans and I'm going to buy a third, and possibly a fourth one. But my mobo only has 3 fan headers, if I were to connect two fans via splitter to one mobo header would there be a downside (other than their speeds running in parallel)?
My Fractal R4 came with two 140mm fans and I'm going to buy a third, and possibly a fourth one. But my mobo only has 3 fan headers, if I were to connect two fans via splitter to one mobo header would there be a downside (other than their speeds running in parallel)?
I idle around 42 and hang around 50-58 while playing BF4. I was going to add at least one fan to the top or to the front for better air flow since the tower is next to my desk on the floor, rather than on the desk iteslf (desk isn't big enough).
Check this out: http://www.bit-tech.net/hardware/2012/02/10/the-big-cooling-investigation/1
Short summary 2/3 fans is enough. I'd add one more 120/140mm
Awesome, thanks. Went ahead and ordered one 140mm. Just gotta decide between top or front placement.
mylasthope
Neo Member
Hey Gaf,
Only 2 out of the 3 fans on my 780 GTX are spinning. Is it RMA time or what should I do? =(
Edit: I guess there was a cable on the video card that was blocking the fan. I moved it out of the way and now it works. =/ However, I'm not getting any signal. I don't have my monitor yet, so I'm plugging it into my Google tv via hdmi. Sometimes I get some sort of a signal and I see something about restarting and choosing boot order. I can't read it all since it's cut off. Is it normal to not get a signal when using my TV as a monitor?
Only 2 out of the 3 fans on my 780 GTX are spinning. Is it RMA time or what should I do? =(
Edit: I guess there was a cable on the video card that was blocking the fan. I moved it out of the way and now it works. =/ However, I'm not getting any signal. I don't have my monitor yet, so I'm plugging it into my Google tv via hdmi. Sometimes I get some sort of a signal and I see something about restarting and choosing boot order. I can't read it all since it's cut off. Is it normal to not get a signal when using my TV as a monitor?
appaws
Banned
Ok lets see, there are some changes you should make IMO. Let me break them down....
1. Don't spend 85 bucks on windows 7. Grab an 8.1 key from reddit/softwareswap for like 20 bucks.
2. Those Corsair CX power supplies are not very good. Their higher end ones are good, but the CX series are pretty sucky. Choose one of the ones recommended in the OP instead. Fully modular is worth its weight in gold, IMO.
3. Cases are a matter of taste. I think that 200R is very classy looking and the reviews are good. (Haven't used it myself.)
4. I would replace the GPU with something else, and more current. At that price range, I would go with an R9 270, probably Sapphire or Gigabyte would be good. Or if you save money in another area, then put it towards a better card entirely. Like a Gtx 760. If you cut the optical drive and the OS, that would be 130 bucks. That puts you into GTX 770 or R9 280x territory. Yahtzee!
5. You have a Z87 Mobo, which is a good choice, but then you have it paired with a non-unlocked CPU. You should change the CPU to something with a "k" at the end....like a 4570k.
6. Are you really going to use it as a blu-ray player. You could eliminate that and put that 70 bucks into the GPU, which is by far the most important part.
How low is as low as possible? If you pick up Windows from Reddit, drop the BluRay drive and make a few changes, you can get a better power supply, faster/overclockable CPU, slightly better graphics card and an SSD for practically the same price
PCPartPicker part list / Price breakdown by merchant / Benchmarks
CPU: Intel Core i5-4670K 3.4GHz Quad-Core Processor ($229.98 @ OutletPC)
CPU Cooler: Cooler Master Hyper 212 EVO 82.9 CFM Sleeve Bearing CPU Cooler ($29.98 @ OutletPC)
Motherboard: Biostar Hi-Fi Z87W ATX LGA1150 Motherboard ($116.98 @ SuperBiiz)
Memory: G.Skill Ares Series 8GB (2 x 4GB) DDR3-1600 Memory ($68.99 @ Newegg)
Storage: Samsung 840 EVO 120GB 2.5" Solid State Disk ($80.99 @ Amazon)
Storage: Western Digital Caviar Blue 1TB 3.5" 7200RPM Internal Hard Drive ($56.98 @ OutletPC)
Video Card: Gigabyte Radeon R9 270X 2GB WINDFORCE Video Card ($199.99 @ NCIX US)
Case: Corsair 200R ATX Mid Tower Case ($39.99 @ NCIX US)
Power Supply: EVGA 500W 80+ Bronze Certified ATX Power Supply ($39.99 @ Newegg)
Operating System: Microsoft Windows 8.1 (OEM) (64-bit) ($20.00 @ Reddit)
Total: $883.87
(Prices include shipping, taxes, and discounts when available.)
(Generated by PCPartPicker 2014-04-28 03:10 EDT-0400)
As a gaming build, no not really. If you fill out the questionnaire in the OP (under the header "Builds") and repost with that we can help you with a suitable build.
Asus teams up with kingston to make new SSDs
http://www.tweaktown.com/news/37333/asus-shows-off-its-first-ssd-the-hyperxpress-ssd/index.html
http://www.tweaktown.com/news/37333/asus-shows-off-its-first-ssd-the-hyperxpress-ssd/index.html
justsomeguy
Member
OK - check this if you get more problems:
http://woodygems.wordpress.com/2013...le-with-the-new-laptop-you-got-for-christmas/
\
Suprising that any company wants to team up with Kingston after their last flagship SSD.
So after the £100 GTX 680 didn't materialise as half expected, I've just ponied up and gone for an MSI GTX 770. Was torn between a 770 and a 280x but the 770 seems to edge it at 1080p where I plan to stay for the foreseeable future and was slightly cheaper than I could find a new 280x at present in the UK. Plus, although my 7850 has served me well enough for a couple of years I fancied Nvidia again for a change.
But I've just found about the HDMI colour space issue Nvidia cards suffer from where they only pass limited range (16/-235) RGB over HDMI and Nvidia offer no option to change this manually. Has anyone here any experience with this? I see there's a hack/tool to force the global output to full 0-255 RGB but I'm a bit uneasy about relying on this in case it's rendered useless with a future driver update or something. My Sony W6 telly can be set to accept full RGB and everything is currently set-up perfectly with my 7850, PS3 and PS4 all passing full RGB through my receiver.
Calibration and video levels are extremely important to me so I'm pretty concerned about this really. Looks like Nvidia have ignored this for years too, which is unnacceptable.
But I've just found about the HDMI colour space issue Nvidia cards suffer from where they only pass limited range (16/-235) RGB over HDMI and Nvidia offer no option to change this manually. Has anyone here any experience with this? I see there's a hack/tool to force the global output to full 0-255 RGB but I'm a bit uneasy about relying on this in case it's rendered useless with a future driver update or something. My Sony W6 telly can be set to accept full RGB and everything is currently set-up perfectly with my 7850, PS3 and PS4 all passing full RGB through my receiver.
Calibration and video levels are extremely important to me so I'm pretty concerned about this really. Looks like Nvidia have ignored this for years too, which is unnacceptable.
So this is possibly a stupid question, but I have http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16811129120 case I bought back in 2003. But it only fits 80mm fans in the back and front.
I upgraded my Motherboard (Gigabyte Z87X-D3H Motherboard), CPU (Intel Core i5 4670K) and RAM last week and to my shock there are no more 3 pin fan connections!
I need some more 80mm fans but I am not sure what connection I am looking for, please help as I am currently running with no cooling!
I upgraded my Motherboard (Gigabyte Z87X-D3H Motherboard), CPU (Intel Core i5 4670K) and RAM last week and to my shock there are no more 3 pin fan connections!
I need some more 80mm fans but I am not sure what connection I am looking for, please help as I am currently running with no cooling!
neurosisxeno
Member
So this is possibly a stupid question, but I have http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16811129120 case I bought back in 2003. But it only fits 80mm fans in the back and front.
I upgraded my Motherboard (Gigabyte Z87X-D3H Motherboard), CPU (Intel Core i5 4670K) and RAM last week and to my shock there are no more 3 pin fan connections!
I need some more 80mm fans but I am not sure what connection I am looking for, please help as I am currently running with no cooling!
They use 4 pin molex connectors that plug directly into your PSU these days. You probably noticed you have an abundance of those.
Most of the new boards from ASUS, Gigabyte, MSI and ASROCK were leaked all over Anandtech today:
http://www.anandtech.com/show/7972/...otherboards-from-gigabyte-asus-msi-and-asrock
Still no mATX news. Bleh.
ASUS Maximus GENE VII is micro ATX.
Doesnt your TV automatically detect colour space? As long as there isnt a mismatch you wont see a difference.
Though I swear my TV uses 0-255 with my GTX 780, although the HDMI passes through my receiver. I will have to double check.
So I'm thinking about buying an MSI GTX 760, but I'd like to be sure that my old (over 7 years) 500W Seasonic S12 PSU will handle it correctly.
This is the computer I use to play and work, so it has an i7 860, 2x4GB DDR3, 1 SSD, 1 HDD and a few fans and a few USB devices.
So, is the GTX 760 going to prove too much for my PSU to handle, or is it still fine? Thanks!
This is the computer I use to play and work, so it has an i7 860, 2x4GB DDR3, 1 SSD, 1 HDD and a few fans and a few USB devices.
So, is the GTX 760 going to prove too much for my PSU to handle, or is it still fine? Thanks!
There will be more announced shortly I would expect. This is just early leaks of some products, the full range will probably show up in the next two weeks or so.
What's your current GPU? Your PSU will probably be OK, but it's hard to say for certain because PSUs do lose performance over time.
I tried running a 7870XT on my old Seasonic S12II 500W and even though it theoretically shouldn't have a problem with it, I was experiencing a lot of crashes.
I eventually gave up with tinkering and got an OCZ ZS 750W which cured the problem so take that as you will. My experience might not reflect yours, it could even be a dodgy GPU rather than the PSU.
Hyper 212 Evo, Noctua extra expense for quieter fans that spin at lower rpm...
H60, pump noise. Hyper 212 Evo fans can run faster than Noctua, hence it can be louder, but if you use the silent profile in Bios it will make them just as silent, and temps will be the same.
I'm waiting on a GTX 770 which I plan to use with a 520w Seasonic S12. Been running an i7 3770k and a Radeon 7850, both overclocked, for a couple of years with no issues.
wow the Hyper 212 Evo is really cheap, it would be an intresting choice... I just hope that it's quiet because I'm changing my stock cpu cooler because is fucking noisy
This is exactly why I'm on the fence about this. Thanks for sharing.
My current GPU is an HD5850. I know my PSU was ok with a GTX 660 (I tried one a few days ago but returned it due to a faulty fan), but the 760 seems to need more power.
Maybe I should just buy a 660. I'm not even sure I really need a 760.
So that's interesting. I'm a bit on the fence regarding my PSU's age though. Over 7 years is not that long in my opinion, but I'm not sure how long a PSU lifespan is supposed to be.
I'll have a look. But I know you can definitely manually set it to expect one or the other for each HDMI socket. I want to use full RGB regardless though really, as it's optimal for everything including madVR.
For video playback the control panel allows setting 0-255. The problem lies in Desktop/Games/Applications i believe.
I assume you are using the Receiver as the HDMI Switcher and only have 1 HDMI input being used on your TV? Or are you doing HDMI to the TV and Audio via Optical?
Pretty much any 120mm fan at 500rpm is silent. What CPU is it? Are you overclocking?
These are the max draw figures for those GPUs:
HD5850: 151W
GTX660: 140W
GTX760: 170W
You could perhaps get a meter that can tell you the draw of your system, then make some estimations. At worst you'll be consuming ~20 watts more with a 760 over the 5850. In practice the GPU may not reach full load often.
Yeah, the age thing might be a concern I supose. Mine's less than a year old so I'm just expecting it to be fine. I've measured the total output of my current PC a few times under different scenario's and it's never been over 250w. Also just running an SSD plus one large storage HDD and a couple of USB receivers.
The new GTX 770 might up that by another 80w max so I fail to see why a 520w bronze certified PSU from a leading brand won't be absolutely fine.
I'ts an amd fx8350 and I don't feel the nedd of overcloking right now
Yeah, I've read that you can change it for video playback. I want it to be globally full RGB over HDMI though.
Everything's routed through a receiver which passes full RGB untouched fine, yep.
I am too lazy to find our what mobo I have but I thinks it's a h87 something or another. Wyeth building my pc, I bought 2133 MHz ram because I was told that 1600 MHz was average. upon buying and building my pc, i posted my specs, another gaffer said my mobo only supported speeds up to 1600 MHz, if I knew this I may have gotte cheaper ram or a better motherboard. I hope that makes sense.
I'm sorry that you bought 2133Mhz memory, but you were advised against it in this thread:
http://www.neogaf.com/forum/showpost.php?p=106344821&postcount=10395
Lol i was just about to say, im sure i said dont buy it especially considering you were on a such a tight budget.
On top of that, the Haswell CPU you bought only officially supports 1600Mhz.
You probably can get your Ram running at 2133Mhz by applying the XMP profile, or tweaking the settings, voltages and timings yourself.
Wow, thanks a lot for the quick replies and useful infos. I will try to get my hands on a meter.
I could also just get a new PSU. A 520W Seasonic is not that expensive after all.
Just out of curiosity, what's the worst that could happen assuming the PSU finally gives in and fails? Could other parts be damaged?
The four pin fan headers are backwards compatible with three pin fans. Just plug them in, they'll work.So this is possibly a stupid question, but I have http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16811129120 case I bought back in 2003. But it only fits 80mm fans in the back and front.
I upgraded my Motherboard (Gigabyte Z87X-D3H Motherboard), CPU (Intel Core i5 4670K) and RAM last week and to my shock there are no more 3 pin fan connections!
I need some more 80mm fans but I am not sure what connection I am looking for, please help as I am currently running with no cooling!
EDIT: For the other guy - I run my 1600MHz ram at 2133 MHz. Want to know how much difference it makes?
The only difference is my penis is slightly bigger
dapperbandit
Banned
So I realise this is perhaps not the best thread to ask but I know there are some knowledgable folks here.
My laptop (a HP Envy 14) just died. Judging by the error messages it seems the hard drive has given out. The laptop was prone to getting very hot while doing simple things like browsing (I don't game on it). I'm no expert but I don't think the hard drive failing and the overheating issue were coincidental.
I had resigned myself to the idea of buying a new one but a friend of mine mentioned that I could always replace the hard drive. I had a quick peek under the back panel and the hard drive should be easy to remove as it's not buried under motherboards and such like.
The thing is, being a pleb, I never backed up my data (none of which was vitally important but irritating to lose). So I'm wondering what the best course of action is. I can afford a new laptop entirely but I would obviously rather not spend £300-400 if I can have my laptop operating again if I replace the hard drive. I will probably have to get a windows key however. And this is all for a laptop with a cooling issue...
Either suggestions or links to a better thread would be much appreciated.
My laptop (a HP Envy 14) just died. Judging by the error messages it seems the hard drive has given out. The laptop was prone to getting very hot while doing simple things like browsing (I don't game on it). I'm no expert but I don't think the hard drive failing and the overheating issue were coincidental.
I had resigned myself to the idea of buying a new one but a friend of mine mentioned that I could always replace the hard drive. I had a quick peek under the back panel and the hard drive should be easy to remove as it's not buried under motherboards and such like.
The thing is, being a pleb, I never backed up my data (none of which was vitally important but irritating to lose). So I'm wondering what the best course of action is. I can afford a new laptop entirely but I would obviously rather not spend £300-400 if I can have my laptop operating again if I replace the hard drive. I will probably have to get a windows key however. And this is all for a laptop with a cooling issue...
Either suggestions or links to a better thread would be much appreciated.
Objectively Bad Opinion
Member
You dont need a new Windows key. Just replace the hard disk.
Lol you remember my posts better than I do, I think the price difference between the different ram of different speeds wasn't too much so I didn't waste too much money. I won't be changing my ram speed, I've done enough tinkering on my pc for now and I can't think of a game I can't run on very high so why tinker.
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